Potenziell gefährlich
Es besteht Verletzungsgefahr, wenn die Anweisungen nicht ordnungsgemäß befolgt werden. Sei vorsichtig und befolge alle Warnhinweise.


Wenn dein iMac mit einer SSD oder Fusion Drive konfiguriert wurde, enthält es eine Blade SSD auf der Rückseite des Logic Boards. Nutze diese Anleitung, um die Blade SSD auszubauen und zu ersetzen.

Bevor du mit jeglicher Arbeit an deinem iMac anfängst: Ziehe den Netzstecker und betätige den Netzschalter zehn Sekunden lang, um die Kondensatoren der Stromversorgung zu entladen.

Achte darauf, die Kondensatorleitungen oder freiliegende Lötverbindungen auf der Rückseite der Stromversorgung nicht zu berühren.

Beginne an der linken Seite des Bildschirms, auf der Seite der Ein-/Aus-Taste, und schiebe das iMac Opening Tool zwischen Bildschirm und Gehäuse.
  • Beginne an der linken Seite des Bildschirms, auf der Seite der Ein-/Aus-Taste, und schiebe das iMac Opening Tool zwischen Bildschirm und Gehäuse.

  • Das iMac Opening Tool verhindert, dass es zu tief in das Gerät gesteckt wird. Solltest du jedoch ein anderes Werkzeug benutzen, stelle sicher, dass du es nicht weiter als 9,5 mm in den iMac steckst. Es besteht sonst die Gefahr, Antennenkabel oder andere Komponenten zu beschädigen.

Would a heat gun make this step easier? Or damage the iMac?

Clark Green - Antwort

A heat gun wouldn’t help you here as you still need to cut though the adhesive. You also risk damaging the display with the excessive heat.

Dan -

Removing the original adhesive is easier than removing newly applied adhesive (e.g., if you have to reopen iMac).  If you should happen to need to reopen the iMac, please use extreme caution and highly consider my suggestions below.

When using the pizza cutter tool, do the first few steps in reverse starting with step 8.  Starting on the left side is better since this is where the adhesive is narrowest.  The right side has two antennas and the top right has one, see the pictures for step 18-21, they are the brass colored metal rectangles near the edges.  The adhesive on these pieces are wider and therefore have more holding power.  The thickness of the pizza cutter tool is enough to crack the glass.

Walter Hayden - Antwort

Continuing from my previous comment.  To remove the adhesive on the right side you’ll need to create a very slight gap to give the pizza cutter some more room.  Do this by cutting the adhesive on the left side up and around to the camera.  Before attempting to cut the right side. Carefully slide the plastic cards (I purchased two sets) to ensure the adhesive on the left top and side is completely free.  Now slowly move towards the right side.  After every inch or two of removing new adhesive, slide the card over to create this slight gap.  Be careful to not move the card too close to where the adhesive has not been cut.  You want to create a very slight gap without creating too much pressure.  Use extra caution with approaching the areas where the antenna are since the adhesive is stronger here and will need some additional cutting.  Follow this approach all the way around the right side.  Be careful to not create too much pressure at any one time.  Good Luck!.

Walter Hayden - Antwort

I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

Luke Gibson - Antwort

I performed this on a Late 2015 iMac and there weren’t any significant differences to these steps, but I did find the repair to be nerve-wracking. My model cost nearly $3,000 and about 10 steps into this guide (which I did fully read ahead of time) I was thinking, “what have I got myself into?” But I didn’t rush and happily I’m typing this on my repaired iMac! I found a video from OWC that was more useful than the photos in this guide for certain steps:

Anthony Zimmerman - Antwort

Benutze das Werkzeug wie einen Pizzaschneider - rolle es entlang des Schlitzes zwischen Bildschirm und Gehäuse und es wird den Kleber durchschneiden.
  • Benutze das Werkzeug wie einen Pizzaschneider - rolle es entlang des Schlitzes zwischen Bildschirm und Gehäuse und es wird den Kleber durchschneiden.

  • Stelle sicher, dass du den Griff immer hinter dem Rad hinterher schiebst. Ansonsten könnte das Rad aus dem Griff herausrutschen.

  • Fahre mit dem Werkzeug entlang der linken Gehäuseseite.

I found the 'pizza cutter' surprisingly smooth at cutting through four-year-old adhesive.

Gerry - Antwort

  • Fahre mit dem Werkzeug um die obere linke Ecke.

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  • Schneide den Kleber entlang der oberen linken Gehäuseseite durch.

The pizza cutter will sink in all the way to the tool handle when the adhesive is full cut, but don’t feel you have to do this in one motion. Some parts cut easier and some require a lot (like 20x) of gentle back and forth.

Anthony Zimmerman - Antwort

  • Zerschneide den Kleber weiter entlang der oberen Gehäuseseite.

  • Du solltest mit dem Gerät immer etwas vor- und zurückrollen durch den Teil, den du bereits durchgeschnitten hast, um so viel wie möglich von dem Kleber zu lösen.

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  • Fahre nun um die obere rechte Ecke mit dem Werkzeug.

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  • Fahre mit dem Werkzeug entlang der rechten Gehäuseseite abwärts.

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  • Schneide den Rest des Klebers an der rechten Seite des Gehäuses bis ganz nach unten durch.

  • Jetzt solltest du das Werkzeug noch einmal zurück um das Gerät schieben, um so viel wie möglich von dem Kleber zu lösen.

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  • Das Opening Tool hat schon den größten Teil der Arbeit erledigt, jedoch klebt der Bildschirm immer noch etwas am Gehäuse. Eine Plastikkarte ist nötig, um noch den letzten Rest an Kleber zu lösen.

  • Lege den iMac mit dem Bildschirm nach oben auf einen Tisch.

  • Beginne an der oberen rechten Seite des iMacs und schiebe eine Plastikkarte zwischen Bildschirm und Gehäuse.

    • Sei vorsichtig und stelle sicher, dass du die Karten nicht weiter als 9,5 mm in den iMac steckst. Es besteht sonst die Gefahr, Antennenkabel oder andere Komponenten zu beschädigen.

I actually DESTROYED my display (black vertical strips) by pushing the card in a bit TOO DEEP. So it is REALLY important to insert the card only a bit (1-2mm) more than the cutter wheel, in particular at the top side, where many flat cables connect the panel with the PCB. These can be damaged very easily!

Peter Fischer - Antwort

Same thing with me…. Pushed cards to far…. new panel needed…€600…..

i think ifixit needs to place a bigger caveat, as I have missed it the first time

Edgar Broekema - Antwort

i successfully upgraded two imacs. one opened with ifixit pizza knife and another with a regular paper knife. however, when i had to open the first one once again i broke its screen glass. it seems ifixit adhesive strips are too strong. next time i’ll try to use heater to weaken glue tension.

Eugene Kharkov - Antwort

  • Drehe die Plastikkarte leicht, um den Abstand zwischen Bildschirm und Gehäuse zu vergrößern.

  • Bewege die Karte vorsichtig und beanspruche das Bildschirmglas nicht übermäßig. Eine Lücke von etwa 6 mm ist ausreichend.

My children tend to collect cards like this from hotels, Disneyland, old IDs, iTunes cards, gift cards etc. They came in handy for this step. After wedging in the first card into the left corner, I wedged the left corner, then added cards along the bottom edge. Finally I continued to push in additional cards to existing cards and found that this created a smooth even pressure along the display top. At 2-3 card-thickness the last of the adhesive let go, gentle as a baby.

Anthony Zimmerman - Antwort

  • Höre vor der iSight Kamera auf, den Kleber durchzutrennen. Ansonsten besteht die Gefahr, sie zu beschädigen.

  • Schiebe die Karte in Richtung der Bildschirmmitte, um den Rest des Klebers durchzutrennen.

was denn jetzt? Vor der Kamera aufhören, oder in Richtung Bildschirmmitte schieben, um DEN REST zu entfernen? Wenn ich vor der Kamera aufhöre, kann ich nicht alles an Kleber entfernen.

Julia S. - Antwort

  • Schiebe die Karte zurück in die Ecke des Bildschirms und lasse sie dort stecken, um zu verhindern, dass der Kleber den Bildschirm wieder festklebt.

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  • Schiebe eine zweite Karte zwischen Bildschirm und Gehäuse an der oberen linken Seite.

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  • Drehe die Karte leicht, um den Abstand zwischen Bildschirm und Gehäuse zu vergrößern.

  • Genau wie an der anderen Seite, bewege die Karte nur langsam, damit der Kleber genügend Zeit hat, um sich zu lösen, und das Glas nicht überbeansprucht wird.

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  • Schiebe die Plastikkarte in Richtung Mitte und höre wieder vor der Mitte auf, um die iSight Kamera nicht zu beschädigen.

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  • Schiebe die Karte wieder an die obere, linke Ecke und lasse sie dort stecken.

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  • Hebe den Bildschirm nur einige Zentimeter an. Er ist immer noch mit dem Logic Board des iMacs mit Kabeln verbunden.

  • Wie im Bild gezeigt, inseriere die Karten zwischen Bildschirm und Gehäuse und fange an, diese leicht zu drehen, um den Abstand zwischen Gehäuse und Bildschirm zu vergrößern.

  • Wenn Teile des Bildschirms sich nicht zu lösen scheinen, dann nimm eine weitere Karte, um in diesen Bereichen den Kleber ein weiteres Mal durchzutrennen.

  • Beginne, die obere Seite des Bildschirms nach oben vom Gehäuse zu entfernen.

I would recommend using suction cups at this stage to lift the display.

Marco De Palma - Antwort

  • Während du den Bildschirm mit einer Hand nach oben hältst, trenne mit der anderen Hand das Stromkabel, welches zum Bildschirm führt.

    • Hebe den Bildschirm zwar so weit an, dass du genug Platz hast, um an den Anschluss zu kommen, jedoch nicht so weit, dass du das Kabel dehnst und den Anschluss beanspruchst (~20cm).

Mark all cable connectors with a spot of white correction fluid before removal. This will remove the risk, when reinserting them later, of getting them the wrong way round. Yes - I know they will only plug in one way round, but it does make life easier if you are not in perfect lighting!

Alastair Lack - Antwort

At this step, if you mess up anything with these 2 cables, especially when plugging them back in, even if you think you’re following the instructions here to a T, then you’re screwed.

I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

Luke Gibson - Antwort

The display cable, the wider one, has a lock on it , usually a plastic tape lift tab to release it, once thats flipped it should come out fairly easily, if your experiencing resistance and the cable isn’t coming out then check for this lock/latch, the power cable just pulls out, just don’t rush it everything should go fine, fairly easy to do with the end result a working iMac

Ed tabickman - Antwort

  • Klappe die Metalllasche am Anschluss des Bildschirm-Datenkabels um.

  • Trenne das Kabel vom Logic Board.

    • Dies ist ein empfindlicher Anschluss, der relativ einfach beschädigt werden kann. Ziehe das Kabel gerade zur oberen Kante des iMacs aus dem Anschluss heraus.

I replaced HDD to SSD and assembled parts again. When I boot up the iMac, I found black lines on display (looks partly not broken).

I searched Internet, and some says graphic card problem, but I didn't touch anything but cable to lift up.

Could the damaged display data cable cause this situation? I hope I could fix this by just replacing the cables..

chansung park - Antwort

Sorry, Black lines is a damaged display assembly ;-{ In the process of removing it you either pushed the tool into deep or you torqued the glass severing the tiny wire traces.

Dan -

Same trouble here, is it cable trouble or connector trouble?

redfoxydarrest - Antwort

Sorry damaged display

Dan -

I think whenever words like " a delicate connection that can be broken. Be sure to pull the [cable in a certain direction] ANYTIME.... It is worth either a closeup or 2, maybe one with annotations or insertion directions and maybe a motion direction arrow with the something like and 'X' char or a circle division slash over the wrong one.

john - Antwort

I agree! +1

Jim Reitz -

[|There are 2 cables to disconnect on my Mac (?). Also, I don’t see a metal retaining bracket. I can take a picture, but cannot attach. I got the glass loose with no problem, but am worried about damaging the cables]

Jim Kelly - Antwort

Hi Jim! You can go to our Answers Forum to post some better images of your situation!

Sam Lionheart -

At this step, if you mess up anything with these 2 cables, especially when plugging them back in, even if you think you’re following the instructions here to a T, then you’re screwed.

I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

Luke Gibson - Antwort

  • Hebe den Bildschirm bis in eine fast senkrechte Position an.

  • Es gibt immer noch einen Klebestreifen an der unteren Kante des Bildschirms, der den Bildschirm wie eine Art Scharnier mit dem Gehäuse verbindet. Klappe den Bildschirm einige Male auf und zu, um den Kleber zu lösen.

  • Entferne so viel vom Klebstoff wie möglich. Fasse ihn dazu an den Außenkanten an und ziehe oder rolle ihn nach innen.

Thank you Stef, that's what i will do next time, i cracked the lower part of the screen went opening very slowly, that's probably why those "tabs are for !!

dforgues - Antwort

Thanks Stef, this has saved me! Simple yet very effective.

David Zemsky - Antwort

Yep, I cracked the lower corner of the display as well. I failed to work the adhesive enough to loosen it sufficiently. Be careful, I just had to buy my customer another screen!

Peter Haigh - Antwort

There seems to be missing a step or two. As I was removing the old display, there are two wires that need to get transferred to the new replacement display. There is not note about these two wires located at the top of the display. The 1.128-inch ribbon cable and then this other 4-inch long, two-wire cable that goes to a very small circuit board that is 1/4 by 3/8 of an inch and seems to be adhered to the panel.I have not been able to get this cable off the old display. There is a port for it on the replacement display.

Note: When ordering this screen, and plastic cards as noted tools, did not list the pizza cutter or the new replacement adhesive strips. So now I’m not sure how to get the new one on and secure.

Todd Derek - Antwort

The adhesive strip along the bottom is designed with a pull tab on each outer end. Rather than lever and pull the screen simply carefully pull the tab which removes that half of the lower adhesive strip and frees up the screen.

Andrew Stephens - Antwort

  • Wenn nötig, kann eine Plastikkarte helfen, den übriggebliebenen Kleber zu lösen.

  • Berühre auf keinen Fall die Lötpunkte auf der Unterseite des Netzteils und die Beine der Kondensatoren. Es besteht Lebensgefahr! Das Netzteil ist in rot im dritten Bild markiert.

Would have been helpful to box the same red area when using the plastic card to separate the glue. Since the red blocked picture is inverted, if someone doesn't pay close attention it may not be obvious that the area of concern is at the right top of the graphic pictures in which the plastic card use is being demonstrated..

Wizbang FL - Antwort

you don't need to cut the bottom part as the bottom tape is stuck on each side and you can easily pull it out

Thomas Webb - Antwort

What is the twisted wire taped to the back of the display that can bee seen in the upper right of the first two pictures? I have an 27” iMac without a screen an my replacement does not have this wire. I think it is a temperature sensor but do not know where it connects to.

Eric - Antwort

[|I opened up my iMac and there’s no HDD or SSD in that spot. its just empty.]

John Warmann - Antwort

Please update the picture to include the RED BOXED IN AREA that you refer to on all three pictures in this step. I have had a few zaps from these supplies and it is not pleasant.

Charlie Nancarrow - Antwort

  • Sei vorsichtig bei der Handhabung des Bildschirms. Er ist groß, schwer und aus Glas. Die Kanten des Displays sind zerbrechlich. Vermeide es, ihn an den Ecken hochzuheben.

  • Hebe den Bildschirm aus dem Rahmen nach oben und entferne ihn anschließend aus dem iMac. Lege das Display auf eine flache und weiche Oberfläche mit dem Bildschirm nach unten.

  • Möglicherweise musst du an einer Seite anfangen, den Bildschirm langsam anzuheben, um den Rest des Klebebandes zu lösen.

  • Nachdem der Kleber durchschnitten worden ist, kann er nicht mehr zu Verkleben desDisplays verwendet werden. Folge dieser Anleitung, um nach der Reparatur die Klebestreifen zu ersetzen, welche das Display am rückseitigen Gehäuse befestigen.

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  • Wenn du das Displaypanel austauschst, musst du wahrscheinlich einige Bauteile vom alten Panel auf das neue übertragen. Vergleiche die Rückseite des alten Panels mit dem neuen. Achte auf alle Kabel, Sensoren und Schaumstoffformteile, welche auf dem neuen Display fehlen.

    • Wenn sich ein Kabel oder ein Draht unter einem Klebeband befinden, dann ziehe das Klebeband immer vorher ab.

    • Wenn das Kabel am Rahmen festgeklebt ist, dann musst du erst die Klebestelle mit einem iOpener oder einem Haartrockner erwärmen. Du kannst dann ein Plektrum unter das Kabel schieben und es ablösen. Ziehe niemals direkt an empfindlichenh Steckern.

    • Schiebe ein Plektrum unter die Schaumstoffformteile, um sie vom Display abzulösen und ziehe sie vorsichtig ab. Eventuell musst du sie mit doppelseitigem Klebeband am neuen Display befestigen.

Be extremely careful removing the LCD Temp Sensor from the rear of the screen. If you pull the wire, you run the risk of severing the metal wire from the connector but not notice it because the surrounding plastic insulation may still be intact. Use a razor blade so “shave off” the sensor under the adhesive. I just had the screen replaced by a local shop and, upon boot, the fan was running full-speed and the Mac’s speed was miserable; Excel took 30 bounces in the Dock to launch rather than the expected 4-5. Novabench showed the Mac running at 4% of its expected speed (overall). The tech examined the sensor carefully, found the broken connection, soldered it back into place, and all was fine. Note that the (partially disconnected) sensor actually showed up when I ran Macs Fan Control in an attempt to work-around this. No problem controlling the fan speed then but the iMac’s running speed was awful until the disconnected sensor wire was fixed.

barryjaylevine - Antwort

  • Reparaturen sind relativ schwierig, wenn der iMac aufrecht steht und man keine iMac Reparaturhilfe verwendet. Man kann den iMac zwar auch für Reparaturen hinlegen, jedoch ist es einfacher und schneller den iMac in aufgerichtetem Zustand zu reparieren.

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  • Entferne zwei 10.0 mm T10 Schrauben.

If you just want access to the HD, there is no need to remove any speaker wires - it slides over enough to access the HD screws.

johann beda - Antwort

  • Ziehe das linke Lautsprecherkabel aus dem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board. Achte darauf, den Stecker gerade aus der Buchse zu ziehen.

  • Entferne das Kabel aus der Lücke zwischen der Festplatte und dem Logic Board.

  • Wenn die Lücke zwischen der Festplatte und dem Logic Board für das Lautsprecherkabel zu schmal ist, trenne es und lasse das Kabel an Ort und Stelle.

I didn’t unplug and de-route this cable. Later, Step 29, has you remove the left speaker. This isn’t necessary. If you can just move the speaker over to expose the hard drive mounting screws, so if you’re not going to remove the speaker, you don’t need to unplug it.

Anthony Zimmerman - Antwort

  • Achte darauf, keine Lötverbindungen auf der Rückseite der Stromversorgung zu berühren. Kondensatoren können genug aufgeladen sein, um dir einen gefährlichen Schock zu verpassen.

  • Verwende einen Spudger, um den Netzstecker aus der Buchse auf dem Logic Board zu trennen.

Can someone explain what are the solder joint? Or tell me what it looks it?

brianyu - Antwort

The silver spots on the circuit boards. You may not want to tackle this alone. If you touch these areas, you can possible get a shock -- harming you and your computer.

Robert -

there is no need to disconnect the speaker, just unscrew it and move aside slightly to reach the HDD screws (about 5mm) - if you want to replace just the main HDD

Thomas Webb - Antwort

Take note of exactly what direction this tiny little wire was.

Joseph Ashe - Antwort

  • Hebe den linken Lautsprecher gerade nach oben an, bis das An/Aus-Schalter-Kabel frei liegt (ca. 1,27 cm).

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  • Schiebe das Netzkabelkabel vorsichtig aus der Nut des linken Lautsprechers.

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  • Hebe den linken Lautsprecher gerade nach oben und entferne ihn vom iMac.

  • Wenn die Lücke zwischen der Festplatte und dem Logic Board zu schmal war, um das Lautsprecherkabel vorhin freizulegen, ziehe es vorsichtig frei, während du den Lautsprecher entfernst.

    • Ziehe an das Ende vom Konnektor während du den Lautsprecher entfernst, um den Kabel unter der rechten Abdeckung der Festplatte zu ziehen.

I found it wasn't necessary to remove the speaker from the left side to remove the hard drive. You can remove the screws, and then slide it over to the left — giving more than enough room to access the hard drive.

Robert - Antwort

me too. don't need to remove it if you only want to change the hd

Alber Einsten -

Agreed, wast of time to fully remove the speaker.

Matthew Gonzalez -

  • Ziehe das SATA Daten-/Stromkabel gerade nach oben, um es von der Festplatte zu trennen.

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  • Entferne die beiden 7,3 mm T10 Schrauben, die die linke Festplattenhalterung am Gehäuse befestigen.

If you have the iMac sitting upright, there is a potential risk of dropping the screws into the iMac casing. Be cautious or lay it down flat.

Robert - Antwort

Been there done that. Had to flip it and shake the heck out of it to get that srew to fall out!

webmail54 - Antwort

Left hard drive bracket screws are T8!! Had to remove HD first before derouting left speaker cable.

lamajr - Antwort

  • Fasse die Festplatte und linke Festplattenhalterung zusammen.

  • Kippe die linke Seite nach oben und weg vom Gehäuse und schiebe die ganze Einheit nach links.

  • Entferne die Festplatte und die linke Festplattenhalterung vom iMac.

Two notes here:  If you are using OWC’s Thermal Sensor HDD Upgrade Cable, be sure to tuck the cable under the hard drive slightly.  You cannot allow the connector to sit near the top edge since this will not allow the monitor to sit flush with the chassis when it is reattached.  Additionally, the SATA connector does not seem to fit together as snuggly as when it was connect to the HDD, so tape or a plastic cable tie to keep the connection tight may be good insurance to prevent it from coming loose.

If you are planning on dual booting with Windows 10, the Windows 10 installed failed when the SSD and HDD were both connected at the same time.  I had to disconnect the HDD until Windows 10 was installed.  Note: I did a fresh install on a new SSD not configured as a fusion drive.  If you are planning on doing this as well, use packing tape (or something similar) to hold the monitor in place until after installing the OSs.  Then reconnect the HDD and apply the adhesive to the monitor for a permanent seal.  Good Luck!

Walter Hayden - Antwort

Hi Walter, i’m looking to replace the broken fusion drive with a SSD, do i have to get the OWC’s Thermal Sensor HDD Upgrade Cable?

Gregorio Alvarado Sahli -

Full removal of the speaker is unnecessary - just very carefully unplug the two-conductor power button cable, which is routed through the groove along the edge of the speaker enclosure. Next, unfasten the two large torx screws holding the speaker enclosure to the chassis. Now you can easily scoot the speaker away from the drive mount - move it over just enough to reach the drive mount’s 2 torx fasteners beneath the edge of the speaker (a CM or two). There’s now enough room to easily remove and replace the drive assembly .

clinton - Antwort

  • Entferne die linke Festplattenhalterung.

This step is unnecessary. Just leave the bracket in place and set the assembly aside.

Anthony Zimmerman - Antwort

  • Wenn du am Netzteil arbeitest, musst du sehr vorsichtig sein: berühre keine Kondensatoranschlüsse oder auch Lötstellen auf der Rückseite. Fasse die Platine nur an den Kanten an.

  • Trenne das Stromversorgungskabel von der Stromversorgung.

I found this cable very difficult to disconnect, be very careful because the cable is between a black tape and it's stuck very hard to the logic board and the cable is very short and you don't have space to move and separate it from the connection! Be patient and take the time you need

MrSchaeffer - Antwort

I found than putting the flat end of the spudger at the center of the cable, and tilting it got the cable out without an issue.

jimboom006 - Antwort

I was able to use the flat end of the spudger on the sides. You can see a tiny little clip on each side. Be very gentle!

Joseph Ashe - Antwort

  • Entferne die folgenden vier Schrauben, die das Netzteil am Rückgehäuse befestigen (Entweder T8 oder T10 Schrauben, je nach Modell):

    • Zwei 23,7 mm Torx Schrauben.

    • Zwei 7,3 mm Torx Schrauben.

In the iMac I just bought (2016), these were not T10. I believe they are T9. Can anyone confirm?

Morgan Crossley - Antwort

Regarding the screws on the power supply board (step 35), I can confirm these are not T10 screws as shown in the guide. In my Late 2015 Retina 5k model, the screws are T8. Morgan mentioned T9 and depending on your T9 driver, it may just barely fit but can easily slip and strip the screw. A T8 driver goes deeper in and holds the screw properly.

smudge -

My late 2015 model has these as T8 screws.

Anthony Zimmerman - Antwort

Late 2015- T8 as well!! Check out this Powerbook Medic teardown video as a cross reference guide!!

lamajr - Antwort

  • Versuche nicht, das Netzteil vom Gehäuse zu lösen, es ist immer noch durch zwei Kabel mit dem Logic Board verbunden.

  • Bewege die Netzteilplatine in Richtung des linken Gehäuserandes nach oben, um sie aus der Raste am Logic Board zu lösen.

Kommentar hinzufügen

  • Drücke die Lasche am Stecker des Gleichstromkabels herunter, ziehe es dann senkrecht aus seinem Anschluss auf der Rückseite des Logic Boards.

Remember to push in the disconnect tab on the large connector. Carefully insert your finger and push on the tab before you pull on the connector.

Manuel Collazo - Antwort

Thank you Manuel, this was a tricky one.

David Zemsky - Antwort

Yes, I pulled the whole socket out because I didn’t know about the tab. Fortunately I was able to place it back in. Not sure if it was glued or how it was anchored but it seems to have a solid connection and I can’t easily pull it out by hand. Once I plug the power cable back in should be ok.

P. Hisada - Antwort

This connector was very difficult for me to remove (even after pushing the disconnect tab). Eventually I had to use a pair of needle nose pliers to wiggle it back and forth out of the socket. A lot of the cables on the my late 2015 model were very tight and a struggle to get out.

Anthony Zimmerman - Antwort

  • Sei ganz vorsichtig und berühre keine Lötstellen oder Kondensatorkabel auf der Rückseite der Versorgungsplatine. Fasse nur die Kanten an.

  • Drehe das obere Teil des Netzteils zu dir, so wie wenn man einen Briefkasten öffnet, um an das Stromnetzkabel zu kommen.

  • Löse den Anschluss des Stromnetzkabels.

To reassemble, do the same in reverse but keep power supply board more upright than slanted down when re-inserting it in to the lower right corner. The lower right screw post has an protrusion under/behind it and the Power Supply's small 2 wire plug must fit between the front of your Mac and the obstruction. Then it just slides right in and then screw it down.

Dan H - Antwort

  • Drehe zwei 10,0 mm T10 Schrauben heraus.

Kommentar hinzufügen

  • Rücke den rechten Lautsprecher leicht nach rechts, um an seine Kabelverbindung zur Hauptplatine zu kommen.

Kommentar hinzufügen

  • Mit einem Spudger kannst du den Stecker des rechten Lautsprecherkabels von seinem Anschluss auf der Hauptplatine lösen.

  • Ziehe den Stecker nach rechts, um ihn aus dem Anschluss zu lösen.

Kommentar hinzufügen

  • Ziehe den Lautsprecher nach oben und entferne ihn vom iMac.

Kommentar hinzufügen

  • Mit der Spitze eines Spudgers kannst du den Verbindungsstecker des Ventilatorkabels aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board lösen.

Kommentar hinzufügen

  • Löse das schwarze Klebeband leicht ab, welches den Ventilator mit dem Abluftschacht verbindet.

  • Du brauchst das Band nicht vollständig zu entfernen, nur die Verbindung zum Ventilator soll frei sein.

Kommentar hinzufügen

  • Entferne die drei 12,4 mm T10 Schrauben, die den Ventilator am Gehäuse befestigen.

Kommentar hinzufügen

  • Enferne den Ventilator vom iMac.

Use a piece of tape around the antenna cables to keep them in the same order, makes reassembly a little easier.

Walter Hayden - Antwort

  • Mit der flachen Seite eines Spudgers kannst du jede der vier Antennenstecker von der Airport/Bluetooth Karte trennen.

  • Beachte die originale Position der vier Verbinder beim Zusammenbau. Die Antennen sind von links nach rechts auf der Karte in dieser Reihenfolge verbunden:

    • Ganz links

    • Oben

    • Rechts oben

    • Rechts unten

My iMac has a slightly different assembly. There are 2 - T5 torx screws holding little clamps for each cable (2 clamps per screw). Certainly more secure but another size screw to deal with…

Greg Freeman - Antwort

My iMac also same with Greg mentioned. need to T5 torx driver. A1419. Late 2015, Korean Version.

Joseph Yang - Antwort

  • Das ist eine sehr empfindliche Verbindung, die leicht kaputt gehen kann.

  • Klappe die Metallhalterung auf dem iSight Kamerakabel nach oben.

  • Ziehe den Stecker des Kamerakabels senkrecht aus dem Anschluss nach oben.

During disassembly, I taped the cable up and out of the way, as it tends to get in front of things.

Tony Ross - Antwort

  • Mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers kannst du den Verbinderdes Kopfhörerkabels aus seinem Anschluss lösen.

  • Schiebe das Kabel vorsichtig zur Seite.

Kommentar hinzufügen

  • Entferne folgende Schrauben von der Vorderseite der Hauptplatine:

    • Zwei 23,7 mm T10 Schrauben

    • Vier 7,4 mm T10 Schrauben

    • Einen 20,8 mm T25 Abstandshalter

    • Eine unverlierbare T10 Schraube

      • Diese Schraube befindet sich unter einem Loch in der Hauptplatine. Du benötigst einen festen Schraubendreher oder die 60 mm Verlängerung aus einem iFixit Schraubendreherkit, um dranzukommen.

The central screw is very difficult to reach! Use a long and very thin T10 screw driver

MrSchaeffer - Antwort

On my late 2015 there is another T10 (approx 16 mm long) on the lower edge slightly left of the hole in the logic board giving a total of 4 screws along the bottom edge.

Konrad Skeri Ekblad - Antwort

  • Das SATA Festplattenkabel kann im Moment noch nicht entfernt werden, wird jedoch das Entfernen des Logic Boards behindern.

  • Ziehe das Kabel und den Verbinder durch die rechte Festplattenklammer. Lege das Kabel auf die rechte Seite des iMac weg vom Abluftschacht.

Kommentar hinzufügen

  • Drehe zwei 5,7 mm T10 Schrauben aus dem oberen Teil der Kühleröffnung.

Kommentar hinzufügen

  • Kippe die Platine leicht nach vorne.

  • Hebe die Platine nach oben und aus dem iMac heraus. Sei vorsichtig dass du an keinen Schrauben kratzt die im Gehäuseinneren hervorstehen.

Kommentar hinzufügen

  • Beim späteren Zusammenbau musst du darauf achten, dass alle äusseren I/O Ports sauber in die Öffnungen passen. Die Hauptplatine könnte schief sitzen, sogar wenn alle Schrauben befestigt sind.

  • Du kannst einen USB Stecker oder ein Ethernetkabel benutzten, um den korrekten Sitz des Logis Boards zu gewährleisten während du es festschraubst.

To help me line up the IO ports, I filled all the USB ports on the back with thumb drives before I screwed the Logic board back down. Worked like a charm!

Alex Grayson - Antwort

  • Ziehe den Verbindungsstecker der SATA Stromversorgung nach oben, um sie zu trennen.

  • Ziehe das SATA Datenkabel ab indem du es hochhebst.

  • Entferne das SATA Kabel vom Logic Board, damit es nicht beschädigt wird.

Where is this cable sold

mert - Antwort

  • Entferne die einzelne 5,3 mm T8 Schraube, die die SSD am Logic Board befestigt.

What type och screw is this? I just need the measurements, is it a standard M-size screw?

Peter - Antwort

Where can we buy and SSD like that?

i found this one on amazon... it is not specified for imac ...

Création site web

bioniqueultra - Antwort

I bought the 1TB PCIe SSD for my 5K iMac (late 2015). Worked like a charm without any hiccups; great vendor:

Shaheen Ghiassy - Antwort

  • Um ihren Anschluss nicht zu beschädigen, hebe die SSD nicht zu sehr an einem Ende an.

  • Hebe die SSD leicht an und ziehe sie aus ihrem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board.

  • Achte beim Wiedereinbau daruf, dass die SSD richtig im Anschluss sitzt, bevor du die Schraube anziehst.

this ssd is not for a late 2013!

this is 2012 year

cslbox - Antwort

What do you mean? I'm going to buy a ssd to add it in my imac 27 late 2013 the came without it.

Which part I need?

MrSchaeffer -

I think what he meant to say is the SSD shown (Samsun) is for a late 2013. The 2014 iMac uses a Sandisk unit (see the 5k teardown).

Ifixit have made the mistake of referencing the late 2013 iMac teardown photos here.

Brent -

Actually the picture show the late 2012 pcie connector. (8+18 pins)



After late 2013, (21.5", 27" and 27" 5K) the connector has changed. (12+16 pins)



(You can see the actual one here : iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display Teardown)


After late 2013, you can only place a MacBook Pro late 2013 and after ssd !!

Cecil His Mahier -

which ssd used in this tutorial ?

where can I buy ?


AlexFull - Antwort

I Use a little bit of glue to fix the ssd pcie to the logic board

MrSchaeffer - Antwort

Which SSD is used in this tutorial?

Lok - Antwort

Thanks Cecil His Mahier

hope you are right

i bought this type

to put it in iMac 27 late 2015

hope it will work

Fanny Augier - Antwort

Just wondering if the SSD worked with your Imac

"i bought this type

Jack Watkins -

yes this is the good one

but now i plugged the ssd

the imac don't want to start, power supply is ok ( i tested it ), but the LEDs of the logic board are all OFF

can someone help me ? is my logic board dead or there is special move to do when you plug something ?

Fanny Augier -

For people knowledge :

i have iMac 5k late 2015

i put exactly this SSD on it :


( i bought it on market like eBay )

Fanny Augier -

i got iMac 5k late 2015

i confirm the SSD you can see here is working : iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display Teardown

i buy it on eBay

Fanny Augier -

I purchased the 1TB PCIe SSD for my 2015 5K iMac from here: Worked like a charm on High Sierra with zero hiccups. Great vendor!

(P.S: I’m not associated with the company in any way)

Shaheen Ghiassy - Antwort


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Does it mean that I can install Mavericks to the new hard drive rather than Yosemite for imac retina new model. I really dont like Yosemite.

ulas sunar - Antwort


So i have maxed out version of 2014 iMac 5k with 3TB fusion drive. I am looking to replace above described SSD with crucial 920 gb ssd. Is there other brands of compatible ssd's you would recommend? Will this new ssd still act as fusion drive or can I install OS X separately on it?


romanvm - Antwort

If I want to swap the fusion drive with a SSD, do I need to remove the SSD-part of the fusion drive as well or can it be left behind?

mhjvdven - Antwort

Does anybody know if 5K Retina iMacs purchased *without* Fusion Drives come with SSD connectors inside?

loccie - Antwort

Answering my own question: YES

loccie -

What type of the SSD is used for the imac 5K.

nuieskater - Antwort

check my post. I only found used in ebay, and I am not sure about the amperage.

I also not mentioned that there are some 1tb that are larger than the smallers gb. But that seems be ok

Alber Einsten -

I just bought the late 2015 27 5k imac (fusion drive 1tb) and I intent to upgrade everything on it

since in the teardown we see this is the same ssd that was in the macbook pro retina 13" late 2013, and until 2015 macbook pro did not changed the ssd type... I looked for it on ebay, a lot of seller sell those apple used SSDs from some sellers include a Compatible list:

Mac Pro Late 2013 and newer

iMac Late 2013-

Mac mini 2014

Macbook Pro Late 2013-

MacBook Air 13 and 11" 2013-

size, pins, and voltage are always the same, but there is some variations in the Ampere spech. I tried find something about but I couldn't discovery if it will be relevant.

There are 2 and 4 lanes versions (4 is faster)

also there are samsung and sandisk options (any doubt abou the better?)

I ignored the amperage diference and bought one that is 2,5A (samsung MZ-JPU256T/0A6). the late 2015 came with a no specified manufacturer and no specs on it. I did right or a mistake?

Alber Einsten - Antwort

Hello ....did you test it ? Works Ok on iMac 5K - Late 2015 - 17.1 ? Thank you !!!

ysaine -

I want to do the same thing, did this work for you?

michael -

Vey sorry for so late answer , I didn't saw this at the time. I was revising today the process and saw the question. It worked perfectly for me. You have of plenty options when installing the blade SSD, the better is also put a regular Sata SSD and have 2 SSDs. I also changed the i5 for a i7. It is a long time work but is not that hard, once you are opening the iMac worth change the processor. The used by apple in their upgrade option was the: i7 6700K 4.00 GHz Unlocked Quad Core Skylake Desktop Processor, Socket LGA 1151

Alber Einsten -

Hi, does it still work as a “fusion drive” or two separated drives?


SimonG80 -

Hi there. I’m planning to replace the blade ssd on my iMac 27” late 2015. May I know which SSD you’re using for purchase reference?

Thanks a lot.

Che FU Lin -

I replaced the HDD with a Samsung 850 Pro (late 2015 iMac). Removing the "fusion drive" was not necessary -- if you install OS X from scratch, you can configure the two drives to work in parallel.

Aleksi Asikainen - Antwort

Thanks for answer my question, before ask :)

mralexanderclark75 -

Can i just replace only the moving hard drive and leave the solid state the mac came with, that would make the world easy.

maessttrro - Antwort

can i buy brand new 2016 imac 5k 27" 3.2GHz Processor

1TB Storage (without fusion drive) and do this upgrade after???

mrmoraesgil - Antwort

So - it's about an inch above the ports on the back - anybody want to try using a dremel to make the %#*@ door that should have been there in the first place? :)

szeglowski - Antwort

I have a quick question, on the owc site they show you don't have to take the logic board out. You can actually replace the stock 7200 HD with a new bracket and a SSD, attach a heat sensor, plugin, and put screen back on.

Is that also a correct way to upgrade the system? I have a MK462/A1419 system that I want to replace the HD and add and SSD to the system. As a 2nd choice, am I able to add a SSD to the logic board that will now act as a fusion drive with the original HD in place? Thanks for all your help.

Anthony - Antwort

I have a 2015 27'' retina with 256GB SSD and I want to put a 1 or 2TB SSD in. Do I need to do the full tear down, or can I just put it in place of where the HDD is in this demo?

intoximacated - Antwort

To add an OMC 2TB SSD where the original HDD went requires changing out the cable, about a $30 part, but one that requires removing the main logic board. While there stuff in as big of a blade SSD as possible.

westwind -

Is it posible to use HDD and SSD without "fusion drive" functional? I have imac 5k with HDD only. But i want to add ssd as second drive. Thank you

Aleksey Kazakov - Antwort


Is possible to add an SSD pci to iMac 5K 27" LATE 2015, which came without fusion drive?

I will have this connection on the motherboard?


Eugeniu Tambur - Antwort

Same question?

michael -

Hello everyone, i want to know one thing about Imac 27" 5k table stand is openable or not....?

pabitra - Antwort

I heard it's not. You have to choose the vesa mount option when you purchase.

dkhyun -

I have the iMac 27 5K late 2015 with 1TB Fusion drive. The SSD drive is 24GB and the hard drive is 1TB 7200rpm. Can the hard drive be change to a Samsung 1TB SSD drive or not? I have not seen anyone commenting on this. Everyone seems to want to upgrade the SSD drive instead. I think the hard drive would be the easiest thing to do. Someone please help. Thanks

Rolo Carba - Antwort

I own a Late 2015 27” iMac 3.2 GHz Quad-core Intel Core i5 with Retina 5K display and 1 TB HDD. I find it slow and want to install a Fusion Drive.

Question: Is the internal SSD in the 2013 and later MacBook series, specifically, the Late 2013 15" MacBook Pro exactly the same as the blade style SSD in the Late 2015 iMac?

MacBook Pro Replacement Drives:

I ask because I would like to take the 500 GB blade style SSD out of my late 2013 15" MacBook Pro and use it in the 27" iMac. I will also replace the current 1 TB HDD in the iMac with this 6TB drive: Then I can configure both drives as big ass Fusion drive.

FYI: I plan to replace the current MacBook Pro drive with a 1 TB SSD:

michael - Antwort

Hi guys, I'm Rik from Florence. Today I went to a apple reseller because my imac 5k 27 has only one 250gb ssd, without any other disk. They told me that my imac is not upgradable because inside there aren't any cable for an other disk. I asked if was possible to remove my ssd with other bigger but they said that maybe the ssd inside the imac is settled. Any other official upgrade on my imac is forbidden and will cause the warranty end. I think it's a shame. I paid more than 3000€ for an not upgradable computer??? ps. sorry for my poor english

ilminia - Antwort

Okay, so the late 2015 (October) 1TB Fusion has a 24gb SSD and a 1TB HDD in combination - My understanding is that the earlier 1TB Fusion Drives were 128GB SSD + 1TB HDD - and were mounted separately. What I am not sure of is whether the tiny 24gb is mounted on the logic board like the larger ones, or mounted inside the larger disc like some of the Seagate SSHD hybrid drives. That is my first question.

As to the question of whether the sockets for SSD are still in place to add a SSD to the iMac units that only come with the larger HDD, I think that was answered yes above. Now about the iMacs that come with only small SSDs (256 or 512) is there an unused SATA connector on the logic board where you could add a SATA cable and install another disc (SSH or HDD)? I do know there are cables available if the socket is there.

I'm about to pull the trigger on a late 2015 unit and wonder whether I want to get one with the 1TB HDD and add two big SSDs or just pay the extra $500 to get the model with the 2TB Fusion?

Uncle Reggie - Antwort

Hi Guys and SSD Experts .... :-)

I needa a hint from your end ... because I'm a little bit confused because most descriptions that I found are showing how to replace the internal HDD against a SSD.

I purchased a iMac 5k 27, with internal 256 SSD. from the Apple Store in 2015.

So it's a pure SSD Model (no Fusion Drive).

Now I would like to upgrade the 256 SSD with a larger 1 TB SSD.

My thought was that the iMac 5k SSD Version runs a normal 2,5 " SSD.

Is it possible to buy a normal 2,5 " SSD with 1 TB and to insert it at that place where normally the Fusion Drive is located?

Do I need any specific set of cables, etc because of an thermal sensor?

I prefer to runt he iMac with an larger internal SSD. So an external Thunderbolt SSD isn't my preferred option.

Thanks for any comments, support.

G. M. - Antwort

You have a 2.5" SSD and not a blade SSD? If your iMac has a 2.5" SSD, just remove the screen, remove the left speaker for access to the left hard drive bracket, unscrew and remove the left hard drive bracket, unplug and remove the SSD and install the new one.

If however your iMac came with a blade SSD only, you can install a 3.5" HDD or 2.5" SSD, but you need a mount to fit the 2.5" SSD in the 3.5" HDD bracket, if there's even a bracket there at all. If not, find a creative way to keep in it place I guess...

You also need a specific SATA cable (see guide I linked below). Use it as a reference to see where the HDD/SSD is mounted and where the SATA cable needs to plug in (it's not a normal SATA cable). I was able to connect the it without removing the logic board, but it's not easy as the logic board is installed backside up. It needs to connect to both its on-board power connector and the on-board SATA slot:

iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546 SATA Kabel Austausch

mikai -

Another note: thermal sensor is not required for SSDs on systems using OS X El Capitan/Sierra. I installed an SSD without one. No fan throttling at all.

mikai -

imac 27" 5k ssd (sm0256g) replacement---My computer has Apple sm0256g ssd... Can I use Samsung 960 Evo M.2 500gb Sata3 Pcıe 3200/1800 Ssd Mz-V6e500bw instead? please help me.

mert - Antwort

No, unfortunately. The proprietary Apple SSD has a unique slot configuration. It just simply won't fit. I've replaced the SSD of my iMac 27 5k and had to buy the SM0512G.

See the pictures below and look at the end of each. They are different.

960 EVO:


mikai -

Hi Mikai, where did you buy your SM0512G? Thank you!

Ernest -

@mikai thanks for advice. I can confirm satisfied. No special and expensive thermal sensor cable needed on my iMac 2015 Retina! I replaced HDD with a Samsung SSD under OS X El Capitan.

mappo - Antwort

Okay. External SSD thunderbolt drive only for me.

Jim Hassinger - Antwort

Hi there,

I would like to add a 256 GB PCIe SSD on my iMac 27 5k late 2015 which only has 1TB HDD. I read that it has the PCIe interface to install a blade SSD but I cannot find any on the Internet. Can someone please suggest me possible sellers (especially in Europe)?

Thanks in advance

Francesco - Antwort

iMac 27 5k late 2015:

Forgive me if this was asked already — but if I want to switch from a 24gig ssd / 1tb hdd fusion configuration to a strictly ssd config, which PCIe SSD can I use? I wrote OWC to see if I can use any of their PCIe blades, but they wrote back that they don’t make one that works for this model — but now that I’m doing a little more digging it looks like I’m finding old eBay listings for the SM0512G that point to it being used in the Macbook Air line.

Anyone have luck with an OWC PCIe blade as their main drive? Any lucky with a Macbook Air SSD?

If I’m going to upgrade to a SSD, I want it to use the fastest connection possible so the 2.5 drive isn’t optimal.

Any help appreciated, have a great day.


Matt - Antwort

I remove the fusion drive(24GB ssd blade and 1TB hdd) and added a 512MB ssd blade(MZ-JPV5120/0A4) and 1TB ssd(Samsung).

The blade is doing read 1800MB/s and write 1400MB/s so I am happy with the upgrade.

BUT when I check the system preference, NVMexpress option tells me that there is no hardware…

(when the fusion drive was installed, it showed properly 5GT/s and 4 Lane…)

Masao Tomogane - Antwort

Can you tell me how to remove the 24GB ssd blade and install the fusion drive ?thank you very much.

Blank -

Can you tell me how to remove the 24GB ssd blade and how to install the fusion drive?Thank you very much.

Blank -

Not sure why the instructions call it adhesive, when it’s double sided tape. Calling it adhesive implies to me that it could be reheated to close things back up.

scottcaldshop - Antwort

I’ve read that on High Sierra we can use N-941A adapter and Samsung blade drives in our iMacs 5K 2017

So Samsung M.2 Nvme 960 Evo through N-941A adapter should work.

Some reported nvme is seen on system as external drive and not bootable on beta High Sierra

Have anyone tested and can confirm?

kmosiej - Antwort

All boot options must share the Main Drive format., My MacBook P booted of my SSD ext,

iMac stopped booting from same SSD at the last moment

During update the SSD was reformatted with the new APFS the fusion remained HFS

Bomb_The_Vatican -

Hi I have a Imac 27” 2015, 3.2Hz, with 1 tb 7200rpm drive. When I want to replace the 7200rpm spinning drive to SSD. Is there another ssd inside the Imac I need to look for also? I just want to replace the 7200rpm with the samsung evo 850. Do I need to replace any other hardrive inside the Imac?

Dave W - Antwort

Depending on how your iMac was configured when you bought it, you may have both an SSD (shown in the guide you’re viewing now) and a standard spinny drive. If you’re looking to replace the spinny drive, the guide you want is this one.

Jeff Suovanen -

Hi guys im thinking of upgrading my ssd blade . Ive been looking about and noticed the do a m.2 convertor Would this be possible to do and just buy a m.2 ssd ?. If not im looking into leaving that there and upgrading the hdd to Evo 850 ssd , Do i need the sensor kit , and i do need to un-pair the Fusion Drive. Thank you Guys

master.mark - Antwort

For all: when swapping out either the blade or the HDD from a Fusion setup, you have to do a full backup to an external drive. Removing a drive will BREAK the Fusion drive like removing a drive in a RAID array.

After you upgrade, you have to re-create a fusion drive of the Blade and the spinner HDD. Google “do it yourself fusion drive” or search (blog). After you build the new fusion drive, you can restore your backup to it (easy with CarbonCopyCloner, SuperDuper, etc.) You can even make a fusion of two SSDs.

Eriamjh 1138 - Antwort

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