Einleitung
Use this guide to replace the heat sink in your MacBook Pro 14" 2021.
Replacing the heat sink requires you to remove the entire logic board.
For your safety, discharge the battery below 25% before disassembling your MacBook. This reduces the risk of fire if the battery is accidentally damaged during the repair. If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.
You will need replacement thermal paste to complete this repair.
Some photos in this guide are from a different model and may contain slight visual discrepancies, but they won't affect the guide procedure.
Was du brauchst
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In diesem Schritt verwendetes Werkzeug:FixMat$36.95
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Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove eight screws securing the lower case:
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Four 9.3 mm screws
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Four 5 mm screws
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Press a suction handle into place near the front edge of the lower case, between the screw holes.
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Pull up on the suction handle to create a small gap under the lower case.
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Insert an opening pick into the gap you just created.
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Slide the opening pick around the nearest corner and then halfway up the side of the MacBook Pro.
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Repeat the previous step on the other side, using an opening pick to to release the second clip.
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Firmly pull the lower case away from the back edge, one corner at a time, to disengage the sliding clips.
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Remove the lower case.
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Lay it down and align the sliding clips with the back edge of the MacBook. Press down on the lower case and slide it toward the back edge to engage the clips.
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Once the back corners of the lower case are secured and flush with the frame, press down along the middle of the lower case to engage the four remaining clips.
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Peel back any tape covering the battery board data cable connector on the logic board.
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Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the battery board data cable.
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Disconnect the battery board data cable by sliding it out from its socket on the logic board.
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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 2.1 mm‑long screws securing the trackpad cable bracket to the logic board.
Sorry but this is not correct Apple procedure.
There is power running through the device still whilst you are unscrewing this plate/bracket and disconnecting the trackpad if you do it this way. This is why Apple put the small flex cable next to this, free to reach before touching anything else.
You must disconnect the battery flex cable next to the trackpad connector before you touch anything else.
Thanks
Is that not what steps 7-9 are doing? You cannot actually access the battery connector until you remove this cable as it's underneath. Which battery flex cable are you referring to?
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In diesem Schritt verwendetes Werkzeug:Tweezers$4.99
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Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the trackpad cable bracket.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the trackpad cable's press connector secured to the logic board.
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Peel the trackpad cable away from the device, making sure to separate the adhesive.
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Peel back any tape covering the battery board data cable connector under the large pancake screw.
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Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the battery board data cable.
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Disconnect the battery board data cable by sliding it out from its socket on the battery board.
Ich hab dieses Datenkabel zerstört. Ist das der Grund warum es nicht mehr lädt?
Welches Kabel bräuchte ich denn? Das hier Item # IF464-018-1?
MacBook Pro 14" (A2442, A2779, A2918, A2992) and 16" (A2485) Battery Daughter Board Cable -
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Slide blunt nose tweezers under areas with adhesive to separate the cable from the device.
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Remove the battery board data cable.
Removing is easy. We cant reinsert the battery data cable connector. It wont push in properly. Any helpful solution???
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Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.8 mm wide-head screw securing the battery power connector.
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Use the flat end of your spudger to lift the battery connector away from the battery board, disconnecting the battery.
I have a question, could you please clarify, if the battery connector is damaged, is it replaceable or I have to replace the whole logic board?
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Use a T3 Torx screwdriver to remove the three 2.1 mm screws securing the antenna board bracket and coaxial cable cover to the frame.
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In diesem Schritt verwendetes Werkzeug:Tweezers$4.99
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Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the cover on top of the antenna bar's coaxial cables.
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Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the antenna bar's coaxial cable.
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Repeat for the two other cables.
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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the four 2.1 mm screws securing the screen cable covers.
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Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the two screen cable covers from the logic board.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the right-most screen cable press connectors secured to the logic board.
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Repeat the previous disconnection process for the remaining press connector at the top left of the logic board.
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Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the microphone cable.
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Disconnect the microphone cable by sliding it out from its socket on the logic board.
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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the nine 2.1 mm screws securing the right cable covers to the frame:
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Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the five right cable covers.
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Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the right speaker cable.
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Disconnect the right speaker cable by sliding it out from its socket on the logic board.
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Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the headphone jack's press connector.
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Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the right USB-C ports' press connectors.
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Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the MagSafe port's press connector.
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Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the lid angle sensor's press connector.
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Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the four screws securing the left cable covers to the frame:
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Two 2 mm screws
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Two 2.1 mm screw
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Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the two left cable covers.
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Peel back any tape covering the left speaker cable.
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Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the left speaker cable.
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Disconnect the left speaker cable by sliding it out from its socket on the logic board.
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Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the left USB-C port's press connector.
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Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the Touch ID sensor's press connector near the top left of the device.
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Peel back any tape covering the keyboard and keyboard backlight cable connectors.
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Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connectors for the keyboard cables.
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Disconnect the keyboard and keyboard backlight cables by sliding them out from their sockets on the logic board.
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Peel back any tape covering the right fan cable connector.
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Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the right fan cable.
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Disconnect the right fan cable by sliding it out from its socket on the logic board.
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Pull the fan cable away from the logic board with tweezers to separate the adhesive.
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Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 11 screws securing the logic board:
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Four 3.6 mm screws
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Two 4.5 mm screws
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Two 5.2 mm screws
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Two 3.8 mm screws
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One 3.9 mm screw
Length of the "green" screws please
Hi Luc.
Thank you for the comment! I have adjusted the guide accordingly.
Left Blue screw is T6 on my system
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Use a T6 Torx driver to remove the three screws securing the logic board:
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Two 4.7 mm screws
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One 5.7 mm screw
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Insert a spudger between the right side of the logic board and the frame.
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Pry up with the spudger to release the logic board from its clips.
There's a missing step to pry up the adhesive rubber bits holding the heatsinks to the fan.
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Insert a spudger between the bottom of the logic board and the frame.
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Pry up with the spudger to release the logic board from its clips.
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Gently lift up the logic board by its right side to release it from its alignment pegs.
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Pull the logic board away from the left side of the device to separate the HDMI and SDXC ports from their slots in the frame.
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Remove the logic board.
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Make sure all 18 connectors are above the logic board before securing it back into the frame.
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Hold the rubber spacers out of the way so the fins can drop into their recesses.
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When reinstalling the logic board, insert the left side first to reposition the HMDI and SDXC ports.
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Use your fingers to slightly compress the HDMI port to fit it into its recess. Otherwise, the logic board won't sit correctly.
I count 2 connectors on the left, 6 on the top (counting all three antennas as one), 6 on the right, 2 on the bottom, and 2 in the center (for each fan) giving a total of 18
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Turn the logic board upside-down so that the heat sink screws face upwards.
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Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the four 3.9 mm screws securing the heat sink to the logic board.
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In diesem Schritt verwendetes Werkzeug:Tweezers$4.99
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Use tweezers, or your fingers, to remove the heat sink brackets.
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In diesem Schritt verwendetes Werkzeug:iFixit Thermal Paste$21.99
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Use your fingers to lift the logic board up and off of the heat sink.
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Remove the heat sink.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before you install it.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our MacBook Pro 14" 2021 Answers community for help.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before you install it.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our MacBook Pro 14" 2021 Answers community for help.
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Ein Kommentar
Guys, it's a disassembly guide - not a heat sink replacement guide.
Why you can't just make a full guide without any addition links to other guides?
I found only how to remove thermal paste (in the guide calls "how to apply thermal past")
1/10 for your guides just because of good photos.
