Einleitung

Um die Festplatte zu ersetzen, musst du das Display ablösen und den linken Lautsprecher entfernen.

Bei dieser Reparatur wird in einigen Schritten beschrieben, wie du die Festplatte durch eine SSD aufrüsten kannst. Insbesondere wird gezeigt, wie der Temperatursensor der SSD installiert wird, so dass der Lüfter des iMac mit der richtigen Drehzahl arbeitet.

Bevor du am iMac arbeitest: Ziehe den Stecker raus, drücke und halte dann den Einschaltknopf für 10 sec um Kondensatoren zu entladen.

Sei sehr vorsichtig! Berühre keine Kondensatorleitungen und offenliegenden Lötstellen auf der Rückseite des Netzteils.

Einführungsvideo

  1. Beginne an der linken Seite des Bildschirms, auf der Seite der Ein-/Aus-Taste, und schiebe das iMac Opening Tool zwischen Bildschirm und Gehäuse.
    • Beginne an der linken Seite des Bildschirms, auf der Seite der Ein-/Aus-Taste, und schiebe das iMac Opening Tool zwischen Bildschirm und Gehäuse.

    • Das iMac Opening Tool verhindert, dass es zu tief in das Gerät gesteckt wird. Solltest du jedoch ein anderes Werkzeug benutzen, stelle sicher, dass du es nicht weiter als 9,5 mm in den iMac steckst. Es besteht sonst die Gefahr, Antennenkabel oder andere Komponenten zu beschädigen.

    Would a heat gun make this step easier? Or damage the iMac?

    Clark Green - Antwort

    A heat gun wouldn’t help you here as you still need to cut though the adhesive. You also risk damaging the display with the excessive heat.

    Dan -

    Removing the original adhesive is easier than removing newly applied adhesive (e.g., if you have to reopen iMac).  If you should happen to need to reopen the iMac, please use extreme caution and highly consider my suggestions below.

    When using the pizza cutter tool, do the first few steps in reverse starting with step 8.  Starting on the left side is better since this is where the adhesive is narrowest.  The right side has two antennas and the top right has one, see the pictures for step 18-21, they are the brass colored metal rectangles near the edges.  The adhesive on these pieces are wider and therefore have more holding power.  The thickness of the pizza cutter tool is enough to crack the glass.

    Walter Hayden - Antwort

    Continuing from my previous comment.  To remove the adhesive on the right side you’ll need to create a very slight gap to give the pizza cutter some more room.  Do this by cutting the adhesive on the left side up and around to the camera.  Before attempting to cut the right side. Carefully slide the plastic cards (I purchased two sets) to ensure the adhesive on the left top and side is completely free.  Now slowly move towards the right side.  After every inch or two of removing new adhesive, slide the card over to create this slight gap.  Be careful to not move the card too close to where the adhesive has not been cut.  You want to create a very slight gap without creating too much pressure.  Use extra caution with approaching the areas where the antenna are since the adhesive is stronger here and will need some additional cutting.  Follow this approach all the way around the right side.  Be careful to not create too much pressure at any one time.  Good Luck!.

    Walter Hayden - Antwort

    I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

    Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

    Luke Gibson - Antwort

    I performed this on a Late 2015 iMac and there weren’t any significant differences to these steps, but I did find the repair to be nerve-wracking. My model cost nearly $3,000 and about 10 steps into this guide (which I did fully read ahead of time) I was thinking, “what have I got myself into?” But I didn’t rush and happily I’m typing this on my repaired iMac! I found a video from OWC that was more useful than the photos in this guide for certain steps: https://vimeo.com/139364064

    Anthony Zimmerman - Antwort

  2. Benutze das Werkzeug wie einen Pizzaschneider - rolle es entlang des Schlitzes zwischen Bildschirm und Gehäuse und es wird den Kleber durchschneiden.
    • Benutze das Werkzeug wie einen Pizzaschneider - rolle es entlang des Schlitzes zwischen Bildschirm und Gehäuse und es wird den Kleber durchschneiden.

    • Stelle sicher, dass du den Griff immer hinter dem Rad hinterher schiebst. Ansonsten könnte das Rad aus dem Griff herausrutschen.

    • Fahre mit dem Werkzeug entlang der linken Gehäuseseite.

    I found the 'pizza cutter' surprisingly smooth at cutting through four-year-old adhesive.

    Gerry - Antwort

    • Fahre mit dem Werkzeug um die obere linke Ecke.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Schneide den Kleber entlang der oberen linken Gehäuseseite durch.

    The pizza cutter will sink in all the way to the tool handle when the adhesive is full cut, but don’t feel you have to do this in one motion. Some parts cut easier and some require a lot (like 20x) of gentle back and forth.

    Anthony Zimmerman - Antwort

    • Zerschneide den Kleber weiter entlang der oberen Gehäuseseite.

    • Du solltest mit dem Gerät immer etwas vor- und zurückrollen durch den Teil, den du bereits durchgeschnitten hast, um so viel wie möglich von dem Kleber zu lösen.

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    • Fahre nun um die obere rechte Ecke mit dem Werkzeug.

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    • Fahre mit dem Werkzeug entlang der rechten Gehäuseseite abwärts.

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    • Schneide den Rest des Klebers an der rechten Seite des Gehäuses bis ganz nach unten durch.

    • Jetzt solltest du das Werkzeug noch einmal zurück um das Gerät schieben, um so viel wie möglich von dem Kleber zu lösen.

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    • Das Opening Tool hat schon den größten Teil der Arbeit erledigt, jedoch klebt der Bildschirm immer noch etwas am Gehäuse. Eine Plastikkarte ist nötig, um noch den letzten Rest an Kleber zu lösen.

    • Lege den iMac mit dem Bildschirm nach oben auf einen Tisch.

    • Beginne an der oberen rechten Seite des iMacs und schiebe eine Plastikkarte zwischen Bildschirm und Gehäuse.

      • Sei vorsichtig und stelle sicher, dass du die Karten nicht weiter als 9,5 mm in den iMac steckst. Es besteht sonst die Gefahr, Antennenkabel oder andere Komponenten zu beschädigen.

    I actually DESTROYED my display (black vertical strips) by pushing the card in a bit TOO DEEP. So it is REALLY important to insert the card only a bit (1-2mm) more than the cutter wheel, in particular at the top side, where many flat cables connect the panel with the PCB. These can be damaged very easily!

    Peter Fischer - Antwort

    Same thing with me…. Pushed cards to far…. new panel needed…€600…..

    i think ifixit needs to place a bigger caveat, as I have missed it the first time

    Edgar Broekema - Antwort

    i successfully upgraded two imacs. one opened with ifixit pizza knife and another with a regular paper knife. however, when i had to open the first one once again i broke its screen glass. it seems ifixit adhesive strips are too strong. next time i’ll try to use heater to weaken glue tension.

    Eugene Kharkov - Antwort

    • Verdrehe die Plastikkarte leicht, um den Abstand zwischen Bildschirm und Gehäuse zu vergrößern. Trenne allen Kleber in der Nähe der Ecke auf.

    • Zu viel Kraft kann das Display zerbrechen. Arbeite vorsichtig. Versuche nicht, den Spalt mehr als 6 mm breit zu machen.

    My children tend to collect cards like this from hotels, Disneyland, old IDs, iTunes cards, gift cards etc. They came in handy for this step. After wedging in the first card into the left corner, I wedged the left corner, then added cards along the bottom edge. Finally I continued to push in additional cards to existing cards and found that this created a smooth even pressure along the display top. At 2-3 card-thickness the last of the adhesive let go, gentle as a baby.

    Anthony Zimmerman - Antwort

    • Höre vor der iSight Kamera auf, den Kleber durchzutrennen. Ansonsten besteht die Gefahr, sie zu beschädigen.

    • Schiebe die Karte in Richtung der Bildschirmmitte, um den Rest des Klebers durchzutrennen.

    was denn jetzt? Vor der Kamera aufhören, oder in Richtung Bildschirmmitte schieben, um DEN REST zu entfernen? Wenn ich vor der Kamera aufhöre, kann ich nicht alles an Kleber entfernen.

    Julia S. - Antwort

    • Schiebe die Karte zurück in die Ecke des Bildschirms und lasse sie dort stecken, um zu verhindern, dass der Kleber den Bildschirm wieder festklebt.

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    • Schiebe eine zweite Karte zwischen Bildschirm und Gehäuse an der oberen linken Seite.

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    • Drehe die Karte leicht, um den Abstand zwischen Bildschirm und Gehäuse zu vergrößern.

    • Genau wie an der anderen Seite, bewege die Karte nur langsam, damit der Kleber genügend Zeit hat, um sich zu lösen, und das Glas nicht überbeansprucht wird.

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    • Schiebe die Plastikkarte in Richtung Mitte und höre wieder vor der Mitte auf, um die iSight Kamera nicht zu beschädigen.

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  3. Frohes Fest, frohes Tüfteln
    Erhalte 12 € Rabatt auf deinen Einkauf ab 50 € mit dem Code FIXMAS12.
    Frohes Fest, frohes Tüfteln
    Erhalte 12 € Rabatt auf deinen Einkauf ab 50 € mit dem Code FIXMAS12.
    • Schiebe die Karte wieder an die obere, linke Ecke und lasse sie dort stecken.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Hebe den Bildschirm nur einige Zentimeter an. Er ist immer noch mit dem Logic Board des iMacs mit Kabeln verbunden.

    • Wie im Bild gezeigt, inseriere die Karten zwischen Bildschirm und Gehäuse und fange an, diese leicht zu drehen, um den Abstand zwischen Gehäuse und Bildschirm zu vergrößern.

    • Wenn Teile des Bildschirms sich nicht zu lösen scheinen, dann nimm eine weitere Karte, um in diesen Bereichen den Kleber ein weiteres Mal durchzutrennen.

    • Beginne, die obere Seite des Bildschirms nach oben vom Gehäuse zu entfernen.

    I would recommend using suction cups at this stage to lift the display.

    Marco De Palma - Antwort

    • Während du den Bildschirm mit einer Hand nach oben hältst, trenne mit der anderen Hand das Stromkabel, welches zum Bildschirm führt.

      • Hebe den Bildschirm zwar so weit an, dass du genug Platz hast, um an den Anschluss zu kommen, jedoch nicht so weit, dass du das Kabel dehnst und den Anschluss beanspruchst (~20cm).

    Mark all cable connectors with a spot of white correction fluid before removal. This will remove the risk, when reinserting them later, of getting them the wrong way round. Yes - I know they will only plug in one way round, but it does make life easier if you are not in perfect lighting!

    Alastair Lack - Antwort

    At this step, if you mess up anything with these 2 cables, especially when plugging them back in, even if you think you’re following the instructions here to a T, then you’re screwed.

    I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

    Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

    Luke Gibson - Antwort

    The display cable, the wider one, has a lock on it , usually a plastic tape lift tab to release it, once thats flipped it should come out fairly easily, if your experiencing resistance and the cable isn’t coming out then check for this lock/latch, the power cable just pulls out, just don’t rush it everything should go fine, fairly easy to do with the end result a working iMac

    Ed tabickman - Antwort

    • Klappe die Metalllasche am Anschluss des Bildschirm-Datenkabels um.

    • Trenne das Kabel vom Logic Board.

      • Dies ist ein empfindlicher Anschluss, der relativ einfach beschädigt werden kann. Ziehe das Kabel gerade zur oberen Kante des iMacs aus dem Anschluss heraus.

    I replaced HDD to SSD and assembled parts again. When I boot up the iMac, I found black lines on display (looks partly not broken).

    I searched Internet, and some says graphic card problem, but I didn't touch anything but cable to lift up.

    Could the damaged display data cable cause this situation? I hope I could fix this by just replacing the cables..

    chansung park - Antwort

    Sorry, Black lines is a damaged display assembly ;-{ In the process of removing it you either pushed the tool into deep or you torqued the glass severing the tiny wire traces.

    Dan -

    Same trouble here, is it cable trouble or connector trouble?

    redfoxydarrest - Antwort

    Sorry damaged display

    Dan -

    I think whenever words like "...is a delicate connection that can be broken. Be sure to pull the [cable in a certain direction] ANYTIME.... It is worth either a closeup or 2, maybe one with annotations or insertion directions and maybe a motion direction arrow with the something like and 'X' char or a circle division slash over the wrong one.

    john - Antwort

    I agree! +1

    Jim Reitz -

    [|There are 2 cables to disconnect on my Mac (?). Also, I don’t see a metal retaining bracket. I can take a picture, but cannot attach. I got the glass loose with no problem, but am worried about damaging the cables]

    Jim Kelly - Antwort

    Hi Jim! You can go to our Answers Forum to post some better images of your situation!

    Sam Lionheart -

    At this step, if you mess up anything with these 2 cables, especially when plugging them back in, even if you think you’re following the instructions here to a T, then you’re screwed.

    I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

    Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

    Luke Gibson - Antwort

    Can anybody upload an image of how the display can get damaged from removing it? I find it hard to believe (though I’m reading the horror stories here) that a whole display can get damaged. Especially when many of us were following to a T and being VERY CAREFUL.

    Thanks.

    Bryan - Antwort

    • Hebe den Bildschirm bis in eine fast senkrechte Position an.

    • Es gibt immer noch einen Klebestreifen an der unteren Kante des Bildschirms, der den Bildschirm wie eine Art Scharnier mit dem Gehäuse verbindet. Klappe den Bildschirm einige Male auf und zu, um den Kleber zu lösen.

    • Entferne so viel vom Klebstoff wie möglich. Fasse ihn dazu an den Außenkanten an und ziehe oder rolle ihn nach innen.

    Thank you Stef, that's what i will do next time, i cracked the lower part of the screen went opening very slowly, that's probably why those "tabs are for !!

    dforgues - Antwort

    Thanks Stef, this has saved me! Simple yet very effective.

    David Zemsky - Antwort

    Yep, I cracked the lower corner of the display as well. I failed to work the adhesive enough to loosen it sufficiently. Be careful, I just had to buy my customer another screen!

    Peter Haigh - Antwort

    There seems to be missing a step or two. As I was removing the old display, there are two wires that need to get transferred to the new replacement display. There is not note about these two wires located at the top of the display. The 1.128-inch ribbon cable and then this other 4-inch long, two-wire cable that goes to a very small circuit board that is 1/4 by 3/8 of an inch and seems to be adhered to the panel.I have not been able to get this cable off the old display. There is a port for it on the replacement display.

    Note: When ordering this screen, and plastic cards as noted tools, ifixit.com did not list the pizza cutter or the new replacement adhesive strips. So now I’m not sure how to get the new one on and secure.

    Todd Derek - Antwort

    The adhesive strip along the bottom is designed with a pull tab on each outer end. Rather than lever and pull the screen simply carefully pull the tab which removes that half of the lower adhesive strip and frees up the screen.

    Andrew Stephens - Antwort

    • Wenn nötig, kann eine Plastikkarte helfen, den übriggebliebenen Kleber zu lösen.

    • Berühre auf keinen Fall die Lötpunkte auf der Unterseite des Netzteils und die Beine der Kondensatoren. Es besteht Lebensgefahr! Das Netzteil ist in rot im dritten Bild markiert.

    Would have been helpful to box the same red area when using the plastic card to separate the glue. Since the red blocked picture is inverted, if someone doesn't pay close attention it may not be obvious that the area of concern is at the right top of the graphic pictures in which the plastic card use is being demonstrated..

    Wizbang FL - Antwort

    you don't need to cut the bottom part as the bottom tape is stuck on each side and you can easily pull it out

    Thomas Webb - Antwort

    What is the twisted wire taped to the back of the display that can bee seen in the upper right of the first two pictures? I have an 27” iMac without a screen an my replacement does not have this wire. I think it is a temperature sensor but do not know where it connects to.

    Eric - Antwort

    [|I opened up my iMac and there’s no HDD or SSD in that spot. its just empty.]

    John Warmann - Antwort

    Please update the picture to include the RED BOXED IN AREA that you refer to on all three pictures in this step. I have had a few zaps from these supplies and it is not pleasant.

    Charlie Nancarrow - Antwort

    • Sei vorsichtig bei der Handhabung des Bildschirms. Er ist groß, schwer und aus Glas. Die Kanten des Displays sind zerbrechlich. Vermeide es, ihn an den Ecken hochzuheben.

    • Hebe den Bildschirm aus dem Rahmen nach oben und entferne ihn anschließend aus dem iMac. Lege das Display auf eine flache und weiche Oberfläche mit dem Bildschirm nach unten.

    • Möglicherweise musst du an einer Seite anfangen, den Bildschirm langsam anzuheben, um den Rest des Klebebandes zu lösen.

    • Nachdem der Kleber durchschnitten worden ist, kann er nicht mehr zu Verkleben desDisplays verwendet werden. Folge dieser Anleitung, um nach der Reparatur die Klebestreifen zu ersetzen, welche das Display am rückseitigen Gehäuse befestigen.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Wenn du das Displaypanel austauschst, musst du wahrscheinlich einige Bauteile vom alten Panel auf das neue übertragen. Vergleiche die Rückseite des alten Panels mit dem neuen. Achte auf alle Kabel, Sensoren und Schaumstoffformteile, welche auf dem neuen Display fehlen.

      • Wenn sich ein Kabel oder ein Draht unter einem Klebeband befinden, dann ziehe das Klebeband immer vorher ab.

      • Wenn das Kabel am Rahmen festgeklebt ist, dann musst du erst die Klebestelle mit einem iOpener oder einem Haartrockner erwärmen. Du kannst dann ein Plektrum unter das Kabel schieben und es ablösen. Ziehe niemals direkt an empfindlichenh Steckern.

      • Schiebe ein Plektrum unter die Schaumstoffformteile, um sie vom Display abzulösen und ziehe sie vorsichtig ab. Eventuell musst du sie mit doppelseitigem Klebeband am neuen Display befestigen.

    Be extremely careful removing the LCD Temp Sensor from the rear of the screen. If you pull the wire, you run the risk of severing the metal wire from the connector but not notice it because the surrounding plastic insulation may still be intact. Use a razor blade so “shave off” the sensor under the adhesive. I just had the screen replaced by a local shop and, upon boot, the fan was running full-speed and the Mac’s speed was miserable; Excel took 30 bounces in the Dock to launch rather than the expected 4-5. Novabench showed the Mac running at 4% of its expected speed (overall). The tech examined the sensor carefully, found the broken connection, soldered it back into place, and all was fine. Note that the (partially disconnected) sensor actually showed up when I ran Macs Fan Control in an attempt to work-around this. No problem controlling the fan speed then but the iMac’s running speed was awful until the disconnected sensor wire was fixed.

    barryjaylevine - Antwort

    Hi barryjaylevine,

    I’ve had my LCD replaced on my iMac 27 / 2013 and there is no LCD Temp Sensor cable on the replacement screen.

    I’m experiencing the same performance issues.

    I’ve ordered a new sensor, do you have any pointers as to how to install it?

    Thanks,

    Simon

    UK

    simon kennedy -

    hey Simon, I used 2-sided tape….this is assuming the new sensor doesn’t already come with an adhesive surface already applied.

    a roll of kapton tape for your own peace of mind will make sure nothing detaches from thermally-induced adhesive crystallization

    make sure you position it in such a way that you can easily plug the lead back into the mobo….not a lot of length to that wire

    placebomessiah - Antwort

    Howdy folks,

    Thanks for all the tips, LCD sensor fitted and iMac back in action.

    Never again!

    Simon

    simon kennedy - Antwort

    • Reparaturen sind relativ schwierig, wenn der iMac aufrecht steht und man keine iMac Reparaturhilfe verwendet. Man kann den iMac zwar auch für Reparaturen hinlegen, jedoch ist es einfacher und schneller den iMac in aufgerichtetem Zustand zu reparieren.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Entferne zwei 10.0 mm T10 Schrauben.

    If you just want access to the HD, there is no need to remove any speaker wires - it slides over enough to access the HD screws.

    johann beda - Antwort

    • Ziehe das linke Lautsprecherkabel aus dem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board. Achte darauf, den Stecker gerade aus der Buchse zu ziehen.

    • Entferne das Kabel aus der Lücke zwischen der Festplatte und dem Logic Board.

    • Wenn die Lücke zwischen der Festplatte und dem Logic Board für das Lautsprecherkabel zu schmal ist, trenne es und lasse das Kabel an Ort und Stelle.

    I didn’t unplug and de-route this cable. Later, Step 29, has you remove the left speaker. This isn’t necessary. If you can just move the speaker over to expose the hard drive mounting screws, so if you’re not going to remove the speaker, you don’t need to unplug it.

    Anthony Zimmerman - Antwort

    • Achte darauf, keine Lötverbindungen auf der Rückseite der Stromversorgung zu berühren. Kondensatoren können genug aufgeladen sein, um dir einen gefährlichen Schock zu verpassen.

    • Verwende einen Spudger, um den Netzstecker aus der Buchse auf dem Logic Board zu trennen.

    Can someone explain what are the solder joint? Or tell me what it looks it?

    brianyu - Antwort

    The silver spots on the circuit boards. You may not want to tackle this alone. If you touch these areas, you can possible get a shock -- harming you and your computer.

    Robert -

    there is no need to disconnect the speaker, just unscrew it and move aside slightly to reach the HDD screws (about 5mm) - if you want to replace just the main HDD

    Thomas Webb - Antwort

    Take note of exactly what direction this tiny little wire was.

    Joseph Ashe - Antwort

    • Hebe den linken Lautsprecher gerade nach oben an, bis das An/Aus-Schalter-Kabel frei liegt (ca. 1,27 cm).

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    • Schiebe das Netzkabelkabel vorsichtig aus der Nut des linken Lautsprechers.

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    • Hebe den linken Lautsprecher gerade nach oben und entferne ihn vom iMac.

    • Wenn die Lücke zwischen der Festplatte und dem Logic Board zu schmal war, um das Lautsprecherkabel vorhin freizulegen, ziehe es vorsichtig frei, während du den Lautsprecher entfernst.

      • Ziehe an das Ende vom Konnektor während du den Lautsprecher entfernst, um den Kabel unter der rechten Abdeckung der Festplatte zu ziehen.

    I found it wasn't necessary to remove the speaker from the left side to remove the hard drive. You can remove the screws, and then slide it over to the left — giving more than enough room to access the hard drive.

    Robert - Antwort

    me too. don't need to remove it if you only want to change the hd

    Alber Einsten -

    Agreed, wast of time to fully remove the speaker.

    Matthew Gonzalez -

    • Ziehe das SATA Daten-/Stromkabel gerade nach oben, um es von der Festplatte zu trennen.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Entferne die beiden 7,3 mm T10 Schrauben, die die linke Festplattenhalterung am Gehäuse befestigen.

    If you have the iMac sitting upright, there is a potential risk of dropping the screws into the iMac casing. Be cautious or lay it down flat.

    Robert - Antwort

    Been there done that. Had to flip it and shake the heck out of it to get that srew to fall out!

    webmail54 - Antwort

    Left hard drive bracket screws are T8!! Had to remove HD first before derouting left speaker cable.

    lamajr - Antwort

    • Fasse die Festplatte und linke Festplattenhalterung zusammen.

    • Kippe die linke Seite nach oben und weg vom Gehäuse und schiebe die ganze Einheit nach links.

    • Entferne die Festplatte und die linke Festplattenhalterung vom iMac.

    Two notes here:  If you are using OWC’s Thermal Sensor HDD Upgrade Cable, be sure to tuck the cable under the hard drive slightly.  You cannot allow the connector to sit near the top edge since this will not allow the monitor to sit flush with the chassis when it is reattached.  Additionally, the SATA connector does not seem to fit together as snuggly as when it was connect to the HDD, so tape or a plastic cable tie to keep the connection tight may be good insurance to prevent it from coming loose.

    If you are planning on dual booting with Windows 10, the Windows 10 installed failed when the SSD and HDD were both connected at the same time.  I had to disconnect the HDD until Windows 10 was installed.  Note: I did a fresh install on a new SSD not configured as a fusion drive.  If you are planning on doing this as well, use packing tape (or something similar) to hold the monitor in place until after installing the OSs.  Then reconnect the HDD and apply the adhesive to the monitor for a permanent seal.  Good Luck!

    Walter Hayden - Antwort

    Hi Walter, i’m looking to replace the broken fusion drive with a SSD, do i have to get the OWC’s Thermal Sensor HDD Upgrade Cable?

    Gregorio Alvarado Sahli -

    Full removal of the speaker is unnecessary - just very carefully unplug the two-conductor power button cable, which is routed through the groove along the edge of the speaker enclosure. Next, unfasten the two large torx screws holding the speaker enclosure to the chassis. Now you can easily scoot the speaker away from the drive mount - move it over just enough to reach the drive mount’s 2 torx fasteners beneath the edge of the speaker (a CM or two). There’s now enough room to easily remove and replace the drive assembly .

    clinton - Antwort

    • Entferne die linke Festplattenhalterung.

    This step is unnecessary. Just leave the bracket in place and set the assembly aside.

    Anthony Zimmerman - Antwort

    • Entferne die vier 8,1 mm Torx T8 Einschraubstifte von der Festplatte und übertrage sie auf die neue Festplatte.

    In my case these were T9 screw posts. Late 2012 iMac. They had traces of Loctite on them.

    rsnadd - Antwort

    • Folge den nächsten acht Schritten nur, wenn du deine Festplatte durch ein SSD Kit austauschen willst.

    • Drücke die Raste an der Frontplatte des Käfigs mit dem Finger herunter. Halte sie gedrückt und klappe die Frontplatte heraus.

    • Entferne die Frontplatte.

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    • Richte den kleinen SATA Stecker so aus, dass die kurze Seite des SSD Steckers auf die kurze Seite am Stecker des Käfigs passt.

    • Schiebe das Laufwerk durch die Vorderseite des Käfigs ein, bis der SATA Stecker richtig verbunden ist.

      • Die SSD passt nur auf eine einzige Art in den Käfig. Wenn der Stecker nicht korrekt hinein geht, dann drehe die SSD um und versuche es noch einmal.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Wenn du willst, kannst du die SSD mit den beiden im Kit mitgelieferten Kreuzschlitzschrauben #1 im Käfig festschrauben.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Stecke das mitgelieferte, für den Sensor vorbereitete SATA Kabel in den entsprechenden Anschluss am Käfig.

      • Richte die kurze Seite des Kabelsteckers mit der kurzen Seite am Anschluss des Käfigs aus. Der Stecker passt nur auf eine Art. Wenn der Stecker nicht passt, dann drehe ihn um 180° und versuche es noch einmal.

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    • Ziehe den Schutzstreifen von der Rückseite der kleinen Platine des Temperatursensors ab

    • Klebe die Platine des Temperatursensors so nahe wie möglich am SATA Stecker an eine gut zugängliche Stelle auf der Metalloberfläche der SSD.

    • Falte die überschüssigen Kabel zum Temperatursensor aus dem Weg, so dass du den Käfig gut einbauen kannst.

    Does the small temperature sensor board have to be purchased separately for a 2015 iMac or is there one already attached to the HDD?

    Richard Lee - Antwort

    Hi Richard, our upgrade kit does come with a temperature sensor, but a hard drive bought by itself will not come with one.

    Adam O'Camb -

    The enclosure that came with my kit is all plastic, does the sensor have to be connected to metal? If yes, where would it go given the all-plastic enclosure?

    Lynne Mitchell - Antwort

    Hi Lynne,

    It does not have to be connected to metal. However, the sensor should be stuck on the drive and not on the enclosure so that it can sense the drive’s temperature.

    Arthur Shi -

    Figured it out, it goes on the drive itself, not the enclosure.

    Lynne Mitchell - Antwort

    • Übertrage die Einschraubstifte der alten Festplatte an die Seiten des Käfigs.

      • Es kann sein, dass für die Stifte noch kein Gewinde im Käfig geschnitten ist. Sie lassen sich dann nur schwer eindrehen. Lasse dir beim Einschrauben Zeit und drehe sie langsam ein, so dass sie anschließend gerade sitzen.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Bringe jegliche Halterungen, die von der alten Festplatte entfernt wurden, am Käfig an.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Verbinde das SATA Kombokabel des iMac mit dem neuen Temperatursensor-geeigneten SATA Kombokabel.

    • Verlegte die SATA Kabel so, dass sie nicht mit anderen Bauteilen ins Gehege kommen.

      • Versuche starke Knicke an den Kabeln zu vermeiden und führe sie so, dass sie nicht eingeklemmt werden können.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

Abschluss

Um das Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge und benutze unsere Anleitung für Klebestreifen, um das Displayglas wieder anzubringen.

140 weitere Nutzer haben diese Anleitung absolviert.

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My experience in upgrading this unit to a Seagate 4TB hybrid ST4000DX001 went fine except for the fans running at a constant higher RPM. Using Macs Fan Control is solving my issue for now. As a tip, you do not need to remove the left speaker, you can loosen the two screws and angle it leaning to the left.

MFR2VCB - Antwort

What setting do you change in Macs Fan Control? Im looking at getting a SSD fitted to my Late 2013 iMac by a certified repair centre who have said they will do it for me if I provide the SSD but they did mention that the fans would most likely speed up as there won't be a temp sensor in the SSD. Thanks.

Lewis -

Lewis: simply running the Macs Fan Control app will do it. Otherwise the fans run at full speed because they have no temperature measurement.

Max Fenton - Antwort

I'm wondering what drive apple uses for the 1TB SSD version? Is it an OEM type PCIE Sandisk as well or a larger 2.5" drive?

I'm very tempted to upgrade my Fusion drive.

Brent Petersen - Antwort

Fan Control / temp sensor issue aside, are there any limitations/considerations with replacing the 3.5" 1TB HDD with a 2.5" SSD in an appropriate bracket?

Is anyone having luck with any particular SSD models?

Tim - Antwort

To solve the fan issue I believe you need to add a temperature sensor like this: http://eshop.macsales.com/item/OWC/DIYIM... OWC told me if you don't, your fans will go crazy because the new drive probably does not this sensor like the original mac. Just heard it today and then read this. Hope this helps!

weddings - Antwort

Thank you this fixed the fan issue for me!!

Felix Waller -

Hi, is a temperature sensor (like the one linked above) necessary if I am replacing the hard drive with an SSD? Also, what is recommended for the SSD "cradle" since this model iMac comes with a 3.5" disk and SSDs are 2.5"?

wesleyhargrove - Antwort

If I replace a Fusion Drive with an ordinary drive, will there be issues? Or is the fusion SSD a separate part and will be integrated when the new drive is formatted?

Alan Browne - Antwort

Fusion SSD is seperate.

Evert van Harten -

I haven't had any fan noise issues at all after installing an Samsung 840 ssd instead of the seagate hdd.

peter - Antwort

Hi - I replaced the Hard Drive using this guide. But it looks like my imac no longer boots up through the fusion drive. How can I confirm this or fix it to boot back through the fusion drive?

donnorth - Antwort

You will have to fuse them back together through Terminal.

asnperswazin -

How do I fuse them back together through terminal?

donnorth -

I have put 1st a 500gb and after a 1tb ssd both Samsung evo 850. I didn't needed to use the OWC in line thermal sensor, I even have bought it but first upgrade it hadn't arrived yet and I wanted to know if I would really need it since I have read somewhere that the latest versions do not need it anymore. my imac is a late 2015 and I am not sure if really is the fact of it be a newer version or if the Samsung evo 850 have some thermal sensor inside. by pass, the ifixit adhesive and the included apener are both great. it was very easy to replace the hard drive, however replace the processor as a little bit hard but I had success in doing it

Alber Einsten - Antwort

Is it possible to change the power button on the late 2012 iMac 27"? The cable got cut from the speaker but I was able to MacGuyver it with another power button. It looks like you'd have to take the metal bezel off which would have to be cut... Anyone have any ideas or suggestions?

Ryan Arakaki - Antwort

Can I have one SSD for system and another HDD for media in IMac Late 2013 (thin body) , like IMac 2011(fattest body)??

marceloQuiroga - Antwort

Good guide. Would be even better if you added tips regarding replacing the adhesives on the display once the repair is complete. Thanks!

Charles - Antwort

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse and use our Adhesive Strips Guide to reattach the display glass.

Sam Lionheart -

That guide exists and is the first option in the EMC 2546 guides list: iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546 Klebestreifen austauschen

Christophe Patys -

I did the installation of a new hard drive following the ifixit guide, afterwards I had the fan issue, I did not have the fans spinning at full speed like some people have been describing but the CPU and other components would just get hot very fast, this seemed very strange, installing Mac fan control didn't help much, as the CPU and stuff would heat up, and if I did not want to damage my computer I had to crank up the fans. I was desperate for a solution, so I purchased the kit from OWC (after reading "weddings" comment) being a bit sceptical, because I wasn't sure if installing a sensor would stop the CPU from heating up. But after the Installation everything is back to normal. The CPU stays at around 40 degrees, and the fan stays quite. I don't understand how this works, but I definitely recommend installing this sensor if you have similar issues after upgrading your hard drive, even if it means opening your iMac again ;). For the record: I have an iMac 27-inch Late 2012.

Felix Waller - Antwort

The guide made it extremely easy to perform an SSD swap. The wheel was the perfect tool, and the strips were perfect for the job.

Christophe Patys - Antwort

I made the change of the hard disk and when closing the imac one part of the screen was left in black that could be this?

john sayegh - Antwort

I got this Screen problem when replaced the HDD with OWC SSD in my iMac late 2012 model.

Can anyone help me to solve this problem ? PLEASE ! I REALLY WORRY ABOUT THIS.

Please take out the photo down here.

goo.gl/vFUiGI

My Email is mrnguyenken@gmail.com

Thank you so much !

Nguyen Ken - Antwort

I have the same problem as you, change the hard drive and now I have a part of the screen in black

john sayegh -

Check and make sure that the Display Data cable is properly seated when attaching it in Step 19.

Philip Sedlmair -

Completed this guide no problem at all. Previously replaced the disk on a smaller iMac without incident.

Images are excellent, detailed and specific.

No issues with CPU fan as mentioned in some other comments. iMac 27inch Late 2012 model.

Bradley Anderson - Antwort

Thank you for this guide: very clear and detailed. The dedicated adhesive-cutting tool was well worth the money, as it sped up the cutting and reduced my stress level! I did need to repeat steps 9-16 a few times before the screen felt loose enough to lift away from the body. TAKE YOUR TIME - the screen WILL lift off without much force when it’s ready.

While the case is open, allow a few minutes more to remove the left speaker and carefully remove any dust and fluff that has been sucked into the case by the cooling fan!

I opted for a 2 TB FireCuda drive. Booting up and loading of apps is noticeably faster, for only a few pounds more than a 2 TB traditional HD: a cost-effective solution for an older Mac.

Peter Barber - Antwort

I think they should change “Difficulty” levels. With this guide: “Easy”; Without this guide: “Difficult”. Thanks again iFixit for another successful repair.

lottpaul - Antwort

Hi Guys, im planning to change my hard drive to SSD according to this instructions, just a simpel question before i get started; How do you do with the system and everything that is installed on the old drive, are you just cloning the disk before change or what is the procedure? (and if so, what tool do i use for that?)

Best regards, have fun :)

Tobbe / Sweden

torbjorn.mobil - Antwort

Yep, you got it! Grab an external hard drive enclosure and clone your old disk to the new disk before you install it. Instructions are here. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

Worked well but in deed it is not that easy. All important steps are explained and with the kit I’ve got everything I needed. Quotation from one Apple Reseller here was 730€ für 1TB SSD, so I was able to save quite some money. Thanks! Best regards from Bavaria

Hopfa Dinger - Antwort

Hi all. I have a 27” iMac (2013) but it was configured with the BTO 500gb Flash/SSD blade on purchase, so didn’t come with a HDD fitted. I want to add one (either a high volume spinny disk or another SSD, I can’t decide yet!), but I’m wondering what parts I’d need. I couldn’t imagine that Apple would include the driving mounting parts or SATA and power cables for a machine that was ordered without an HDD. Has anyone cracked one of these SSD only iMacs open to see what’s what?

markbart - Antwort

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