Einleitung

Hier wird der Austausch der Tastenabdeckungen gezeigt.

Die Anleitung gilt nicht für die elektrischen Schalter darunter.

Wenn das Kabel oder die Elektronik getauscht werden müssen, haben wir dazu folgende Anleitung.

  1. Entlade den Akku auf unter 25%, bevor du beginnst dein iPhone zu zerlegen. Ein geladener Lithium-Ionen Akku kann Feuer fangen oder explodieren, wenn er aus Versehen beschädigt wird.
    • Entlade den Akku auf unter 25%, bevor du beginnst dein iPhone zu zerlegen. Ein geladener Lithium-Ionen Akku kann Feuer fangen oder explodieren, wenn er aus Versehen beschädigt wird.

    • Schalte das iPhone aus, bevor du mit der Demontage beginnst.

    • Entferne die beiden 3,4 mm P2 Pentalobe Schrauben an der Unterseite des iPhones neben dem Lightning-Anschluss.

    Hi, just got the repair kit that came with IPhone 6S battery. I felt that there’s no explanation on which tool to use to remove the two 3.4mm P2 Pentalobe screws. It’s not helpful just to say “Remove the two 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone, next to the Lightning connector. “. It’s more important to explain how and what tool to use. The repair tool kit tools were not marked at all and it’s not right to assume that people know which tool or part to use. Please kindly address this issue. Thanks. Janet

    Janet Monaghen - Antwort

    @beingchen For the P2 pentalobe screws you should use the driver bit marked P2. Might be a little hard to see but it’s there, etched into the side of the bit.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    It’s very clear which tool you need. As it says these are “3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws” - so you need a 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screwdriver…

    alexanderbrix1987 - Antwort

    Just a P2 driver—3.4 mm is the length of the screw.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    If you can’t identify which screwdriver in the kit to use, you probably shouldn’t be working on your phone. Just sayin’

    Keith Hockenbeck - Antwort

    Is it ok to replace the battery if the phone screen is broken?

    Reem - Antwort

    Of course! As long as the screen and battery are disconnected from the motherboard, you can replace anything!

    Charles Bejarano -

  2. Das Öffnen des Displays vom 6s erfordert das Trennen eines dünnen Klebestreifens, der einmal außen am Gehäuse verläuft. Wenn du bevorzugst den Kleber zu ersetzen, bereite jetzt passende Klebestreifen vor. Es ist aber möglich, die Reparatur ohne Ersetzen des Klebers zu beenden, und wahrscheinlich merkst du keinen Unterschied in der Funktionalität.
    • Das Öffnen des Displays vom 6s erfordert das Trennen eines dünnen Klebestreifens, der einmal außen am Gehäuse verläuft. Wenn du bevorzugst den Kleber zu ersetzen, bereite jetzt passende Klebestreifen vor. Es ist aber möglich, die Reparatur ohne Ersetzen des Klebers zu beenden, und wahrscheinlich merkst du keinen Unterschied in der Funktionalität.

    • Wenn du keinen iSclack zur Verfügung hast, verwende einen Saugnapf, um das Front Panel anzuheben:

      • Presse den Saugnapf oberhalb des Home Buttons gegen das Display.

    Hello, I was wondering if there was a guide of how to replace the adhesive strips, thank you

    Pablo Reyes - Antwort

    The suction cup will not work if you have a shattered screen. I put a tip of an exacto knife between the glass and side frame above the power connector, carefully pried up then used the spluger to pry the rest of the way up.

    johnmurphyjr - Antwort

    Tape will work as well in order to create a smooth surface

    Nick Stine -

    Even tape didn’t work on my first shattered screen 6S disassembly. Had to reset to the exacto/thin blade technique.

    Peter Bovey - Antwort

    For me, it seemed like I only had one shot at the suction cup. It stuck on firmly the first time, but I noticed in the instructions that it was placed more on the side. I detached my suction cup and repositioned it and now it doesn’t stay (sucked) on. Hmmm.

    Frank Terence - Antwort

    Can you use the iSclack opener to open the iPhone 6s?

    Joe Koffee - Antwort

    The iSclack is helpful, although you have to use it a bit differently than you would on, say, a 5s or 6. The iSclack alone isn’t strong enough to pop the display open, because of all the adhesive around the perimeter of the 6s display. But you can use it to lift the display just enough to get a tool in there and start cutting the adhesive. Basically, the iSclack does the same job as the suction cup shown here, with maybe a bit less fuss.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    My screen was SUPER shattered… the hair dryer did the trick. Patience it definitely the key… I tried putting tape over the glass but the suction cup wouldn’t stick to it at all but it stuck to the broken glass for a few seconds. I taped it up when I was finally able to move onto the next steps to keep the glass from getting everywhere then peeled it off for Step 10.

    Mandy Ng - Antwort

    Hi, it looks like, from reading the comments, that separating the display assembly from the phone is a tricky step.

    Would the piece of equipment, in the link below, be any use at this stage? Seems it could be used for all makes and models.

    Any info would be appreciated.

    https://youtu.be/8it4o9tx8tQ

    Michael Magor - Antwort

    I have a screen protector on my phone. I was wondering if it was going to be problem for the suction cup.

    jeffreyleung2002 - Antwort

    • Halte das iPhone mit einer Hand fest und ziehe am Saugnapf, um das Front Panel vom hinteren Gehäuse zu trennen.

      • Nimm dir Zeit und übe konstante, starke Kraft auf den Saugnapf aus. Die Displayeinheit sitzt im Vergleich zu anderen Geräten sehr fest.

    • Wenn du zu stark ziehst, könnte die Display-Einheit beschädigt werden. Wende genau so viel Kraft auf, dass ein kleiner Spalt zwischen Rear Case und Display Einheit entsteht.

    No, really. Do this on a table and use less strength than you think. If you open the display the whole way at this step you can easily rip the home button connections and one of several display connections at the top. <— too much experience... :(

    chuymatt - Antwort

    Wow, that was tough. Patience, patience, patience. Did not use the iOpener, just firm and consistent pulling with the phone on a flat surface. When the suction cup comes off... clean the display surface and go back at it. I did use the pointed end of a spudger inserted into the headphone jack to hold down the bottom case whilst I pulled on the suction cup. Once there was sufficient room (see next step) you can just get the spudger (flat end) to slide in slightly.

    plisi - Antwort

    If you're lifting up on the glass, how are you supposed to hold the rest of the phone down? Is it by holding the camera end down with the side of your hand and rotating your hand, or using your other hand (not pictured) on the edges (seems very difficult), or using a spudger in a jack?

    Bryan - Antwort

    I got a fingernail on the metal edge and that did the trick.

    David Heinbach -

    On the 6s, which has an annoying black adhesive strip holding the display assembly on, I use the iSclack to loosen a very small area near the home button then insert a thin spudger and gently twist it a bit to release the adhesive. Do this around the bottom and both sides of the phone to release the screen. I usually have to break some of the adhesive strands when the opening is big enough.

    scentaur - Antwort

    My spudgers just too thick for initial insertion. In the end, fingernail on my thumb got me started, and I was able to get plastic picks in there to work it. The microwavable iOpener gel strip really helped.

    Heidi Moser - Antwort

    Thanks plisi, your comments are helpful. I had to apply pressure several different times. Didnt realize until about the seventh time applying pressure that what I was doing was slowly loosening the adhesive. Patience is truly the key with this step. You may not think you're progressing but it's slowly prying away.

    amylofton - Antwort

    What happens if the cup won't even stick to the display because it is cracked and it will not hold air near the bottom of the phone?

    Jaredrett - Antwort

    hey everyone, i just did my first iphone 6S display...after many 5, 5c, and 5s iphones...just keep trying and carefully insert the spunger where they said...right around the headphone jack. The black adhesive makes it very tough to get it off unless you work at one corner. Be careful...but you can do it! ;-)

    David Althaus - Antwort

    Use a razor, and go along the outside of the phone carevilly using the razor as a spudger. it will efficiently cut and weaken the adhesive while spudging the screen away from the frame. only takes 15 mins.... Use a workbench razor, not a flimsy one. If possible, use one where one side of the razor has a gaurd on it for better grip. Take it slow and try not to scratch the frame. Lots of pressure and patience is key!!!

    Goodluck!!

    -J

    Jaredrett - Antwort

    The first time you pull it apart there's black glue tape that you'll have to compete with to get it open. Be careful

    Jeff - Antwort

    Use a hairdryer about 2-3 inches from the phone on high heat for about a minute, moving the dryer the entire time. The phone opened for me in less than a minute after trying for several minutes without heating up the phone.

    Todd Leach - Antwort

    Careful ..delicate work. I also used a hot hair dryer around the perimeter for just a couple minutes to help loosen the adhesive bond. I then used my sadly short finger nail to help loosen the edge. I placed dental floss under the corner & carefully lifted the display very very slowly. This worked within about 3 minutes. As mentioned earlier the adhesive used in the iPhone 6s is very strong but this routine worked like a charm & was quick!

    Mary Blocher - Antwort

    Much easier to do using the Spudger that is provided in the Pro Tool Kit. It has a thinner fin type head. The Spudger provided in this repair kit is definitely too thick and makes it far more difficult.

    Tyler Brady - Antwort

    The spudger is too thick and the glue is too strong. Pulling up broke the glass below the power button. Now I am out $200 for a repair, plus a battery. Bummer. I am VERY good at repairing things. The adhesive on this is very very strong. The pentalobe tip that they send with the kits not milled well and I had to take a file and flatten the tip to get it to work - it is not finished well at all. I used the kit for the iPhone 6 for my Mom and had no problem. I am 51 and have been fixing things since I was very young.

    greghabiby - Antwort

    Well, I shattered my screen trying to do this. So now I need a battery and screen repair. Not happy.

    Carolann Parran - Antwort

    Me too! Be gentle!

    Matthew Simoenau -

    Removing the display was the hardest part of the whole job. The adhesive is very strong, but just be patient. What I ended up doing was to use the suction cup, the flat end of the spudger, and an iFixit opening tool. I used the suction cup on the screen as directed. Then I placed the flat end of the spudger just a bit into the charging port and held down the phone body by the spudger on my work mat. I pulled up on the suction cup, pushed down on the spudger, and inserted the thin iFixit opening tool in the small seperation. I took my time and worked my way around all of the edges. After that it was really easy. I was able to reuse the adhesive, and my new battery install went just as planned.

    Eric Olson - Antwort

    Use a hair dryer as per the suggestions and this will definitely make the job easier and reducing the risk of breaking the display . Keep a steady pull of the display, don’t rush and it will start to show the small separation gap. An issue is that it will go back in place if you stop pulling before you can use the spudger tool. The suction tool that came with my repair kit did not have a ring on it as per the guide picture. It has a blue handle that is open on the side. I sat at my kitchen desk and opened a drawer. I hooked the open edge of the suction handle around the drawer side edge which me a third hand. I held the phone with one hand and pulled it away from the desk drawer. Once the separation started I could use my other hand with the flat edge of the spudger to complete the separation. Hope this helps.

    emaneht - Antwort

    Hair dryer - 1 minute until it’s hot like a fresh mug of coffee. Then as soon as you see the smallest gap, insert a razor blade above the phones jack, I needed to slide it towards the charge port and back. Once it slips in keep it there and use your spudger to enlarge the gap and slide it along the corners.

    Steve Esson - Antwort

    Yes, I used the tip of a sharp knife as a pry tool to get me started. Since the screen was cracked anyway I figured I had nothing to lose. It went fine.

    David Heinbach -

    Also tried it with the hair dryer - worked like a charm. 5 Minutes and the phone was open. The whole repair procedure took me about 45 minutes, and was ok. Re-assembling the three display-connectors has been a bit tricky, but with careful movements and taking the time it needs it was not a big problem. New display is very good, phone looks like new :-)

    Christian Woelk - Antwort

    • Es befindet sich eine Kerbe an der Unterseite des Displays, genau über der Kopfhörer-Buchse. Hier solltest du mit dem Spudger ansetzen.

    • Platziere den flachen Teil des Spudgers in der Lücke zwischen Display und Rückgehäuse, direkt über der Kopfhörer-Buchse.

    WARNING: easy to stretch/ruin the adhesive

    As you proceed, know that you must keep ALL of the adhesive stuck to the phone. If any stays stuck to display, it can become permanently stretched as you are prying and lifting. Then you’ll need to buy the replacement adhesive, once it’s back in stock!

    Jason - Antwort

    If you’re opening the phone at all, you’re compromising the adhesive. There is absolutely no way to somehow open it perfectly so you can re-use it. Fortunately, it’s cheap and fairly easy to replace—and not even that critical on the 6s series anyway, since it’s not doing any real waterproofing.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I had a badly cracked screen. Packing tape helped the suction cup stick. Heating the phone helped soften the adhesive, and in the end I pried the screen up at the headphone jack with a sharp pointy knife. That helped me get the spudger underneath. Not recommended if the screen is ok, like for a battery replacement, but mine was cracked so I figured I had nothing to lose. Great guide.

    David Heinbach - Antwort

    • Drehe den Spudger in eine hochkante Position, um die Lücke zwischen Display-Einheit und dem Rest des iPhones zu vergrößern.

    No need to turn the spudger full 90°. Just turn it a little.

    Martin Born - Antwort

    • Füge das flache Ende auf der linken Seite des iPhones ein, zwischen Display-Einheit und Rückgehäuse.

    • Fahre mit dem Spudger auf der linken Seite in Richtung obere Hälfte des iPhones, um den Kleber zu trennen und die Klammern zu lösen.

    I’ve found it very easy to open the phone with one of the blue opening picks.

    Just slide it along the left and right side of the display.

    Martin Born - Antwort

    Excellent idea. No matter which tool you use take your time so not to damage the display assembly further. Even a cracked screen is a great test tool or spare to use while doing other repairs when it still comes on.

    Bryan Solo -

    Do not go into the top left corner too far your screen will crack i learned the hard way

    Kevin - Antwort

    • Entferne den Spudger und füge ihn erneut im unteren Teil des Gerätes ein, genau dort wo du mit dem Öffnen begonnen hast.

    • Fahre mit dem Spudger in Richtung rechte untere Ecke des iPhones.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Fahre mit dem Spudger weiter die rechte Seite hoch, löse dadurch den Kleber und die noch festsitzenden Klammern.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Nutze den Saugnapf, um das Display zu öffnen, dadurch sollte auch der letzte festsitzende Kleber entfernt werden.

    • Öffne das Display nicht weiter als 90°, da es immer noch durch drei Kabel mit dem Telefon verbunden ist.

    Prop it up on something

    Nick Stine - Antwort

    an old iPhone box and a rubber band lightly around the display works great to hold it at 90

    Christa - Antwort

    • Ziehe an der Kunststoff-Noppe, um die Vakuumversiegelung am Saugnapf zu lösen. Entferne dann den Saugnapf von der Displayeinheit.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Öffne das iPhone, indem du das Home Button-Ende des Front Panels vom hinteren Gehäuse wegklappst und dabei die Oberkante des Mobiltelefons als Scharnier verwendest.

    • Öffne das Display um ca. 90 Grad und lehne es gegen etwas, damit es abgestützt ist, während du am Gerät arbeitest.

      • Befestige das Display mit einem Gummiband, während du arbeitest. Das verhindert ein ungewolltes Dehnen der Displaykabel.

      • Zur Not hilft eine ungeöffnete Getränkedose.

    Smart idea :)

    x226 - Antwort

    on the third picture, the screen is opened more than 90 degrees.

    Mirza Zohaib - Antwort

    It said about 90 degrees

    Nick Stine -

    In the second picture I was originally wondering what that diagonal piece of material was. Now that I've done a repair I can say that it's the sticky adhesive around the edge of the phone lifting up with the screen.

    jonl - Antwort

    • Entferne die beiden folgenden Kreuzschlitz Schrauben von der Kabelabdeckung des Akkuanschlusses.

      • Eine 2,9 mm Schraube

      • Eine 2,2 mm Schraube

    In order to put the correct screw back where you took it out mark the head surface and a small dot beside the hole with a pen. Use coloured pens if you want the exact location for each screw/hole. This goes for steps 17, (23) and 29 too.

    lionno1 - Antwort

    Please! Please! Please! Invest in a Magnetic Project Mat or its equivalent from fixit. It will assist you with completing your repair.

    Ian Baldwin - Antwort

    • Entferne die Kabelabdeckung des Akkuanschlusses.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Heble den Akkustecker mit dem spitzen Ende eines Spudgers vorsichtig von seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board.

    Be sure not to skip this step. It is crucial. I have had many repairs where the screen will not light up after the repair if the battery had not been disconnected and reconnected.

    Andrew spoelstra - Antwort

    Thanks for the tip, Andrew.

    William Turner -

    It should also be mentioned, DO NOT USE A METAL SPUDGER. You could short the battery to other nearby metal parts. I've done that, the battery clip arced to the metal cover on some of the logic board chips, and my phone wouldn't power back on for 3 days. They should put a caution caption on this step. I've had this happen on a 5S as well.

    Frank - Antwort

    Thanks for the tip, Frank.

    William Turner -

    SERIOUS WARNING!: During *reassembly*, you should NOT reconnect the battery connector until the VERY LAST step (upon reassembly!), as many people, including myself, apparently have smoked (burned, destroyed) the main Logic board. This happens when you reconnect the LCD/digitizer assembly FPC cable. ifixit should modify this instruction to be very explicit about this!

    enoughstatic - Antwort

    • Drücke den Akkustecker vom Logic Board weg, so dass es während der Reparatur nicht zu einer unbeabsichtigten Verbindung mit dem Anschluss kommt.

    If you remove the grey bar with the word “TAPTIC” next, removal of the battery adhesive is much easier. It can be pulled straighter back with less chance of tearing. Here’s an image with the securing screws identified.

    If you securely anchor the screen to a can of soup, it is not necessary complete step 16 Front Panel Assembly. I was able to remove the two bottom (1.2 mm) screws and the 2.8 mm screw, but could not get the upper (1.2 mm) screw. I was able to remove the old battery with the Front Panel Assembly left in place.

    Edward Dziuk - Antwort

    Hi what it is called black cover between battery connector and sim card tray? Thanks

    Rajendra - Antwort

    • Entferne die folgenden vier Kreuzschlitz Schrauben, die die Kabelhalterung befestigen:

      • Drei 1,2 mm Schrauben

      • Eine 2,8 mm Schraube

    Thank you for this great guide!

    I was able to skip removing the display assembly and logic board steps and lay the speaker upside down on the bottom edge of the logic board without putting undue pressure on the antenna cable making this a much easier and quicker repair for me. If you choose to leave the display assembly connected, I recommend using a rubber band to hold it to a box of similar size at a 90 degree angle to prevent damage and stress to the attached cables.

    So, the steps I skipped were Steps 16 through 34 and Steps 37 through 45.

    scentaur - Antwort

    The 1.2mm screw in the top left corner is refusing to come out, any help?

    Harry Allinson - Antwort

    why does the battery fix kit not include the #00 bit needed to unscrew all 3 1.2mm screws?!?! !#^&@@ off.

    robertdjclark - Antwort

    Either a #00 or a #000 bit should work fine here. Some #0 bits will also work if the point is fine enough. Same goes for a lot of JIS bits. As long as it doesn't strip or slip, you're good.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    My kit's screwdriver failed about the time I got to the last few steps in this tutorial. I had a cheap precision set with a #000 bit but that refused to seat in the screws. I went to Home Depot, bought a lifetime guarantee Husky precision set with #0000 through #0 bits and that worked beautifully on every screw.

    David Shaddock - Antwort

    The screwdriver in my kit doesn't remove the bottom two screws! any reason why?

    anujfolsom - Antwort

    I actually followed all the guide but isn’t the front panel disassembly skippable? And if so what are the benefits of removing it? Cause i had quite a hard time putting back in the connectors of the 3 flex cables.

    GiovanniB - Antwort

    I have the 6s from Dubai. the top left screw is different with the rest. I am stuck on this screw. i am clue less why this top left + screw.

    Anyone have the same issue?

    Evander Lorenz - Antwort

    A precision screwdriver set is a wise investment for doing any of this work. I got a set from iFixit that is very well machined. Don’t expect the cheap drivers with kits to last more than one disassembly-assembly, if that! Also don’t keep mangled bits or drivers…throw them out!!!

    Peter Bovey - Antwort

    what crews  should I use in this step PH000. OR Y000 OR P2 Plz help me

    mshary alzhrany - Antwort

    The kit provided with the replacement Battery of iPhone 6s does not include the right bits to remove the three 1,2mm screws! I had to remove it without removing the display.

    Matthias Wagner - Antwort

    I too experienced a problem with the size of the screwdriver here (supplied in the iFixit kit.) My phone also had a 5th screw right in the center of the plate - another 1.2mm. I removed and replace it without problems.

    Scott Young - Antwort

    @scottvyoung Sounds like you’re working on an iPhone 6. These instructions are for the 6s.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Screws are very small and very difficult to put back in!! Lost 2-3 screws

    Put phone back together and of course doesnt work Waste of Money!

    Thomas Kintigh - Antwort

    I purchased a “screw set” for an i-Phone 5 and have slowly been cannibalizing it whenever I lose a screw. It has been invaluable and the set includes enough screws that I have been able to cover all that have been dropped and lost for 3 i-Phones now. Using a magnetic mat has also limited my screw loss considerably! All of these items were purchased through IFIXIT at very reasonable cost. Thank you IFIXIT!

    Peter Bovey -

    The ifixit kit supplied screwdriver for the display cable bracket did NOT fit. (disappointing) So, I used scentar’s (comment above) method of a large rubber band wrapped around a book weighted kit box to hold it at 90 degrees. Leaving the screen attached and then removing and replacing the battery.

    laffinbuz - Antwort

    I had a problem reassembling the iPhone, my touchId wasn’t working any more even if the home button was working correctly. I don’t know why but loosening these 4 screw a bit made it work again. If I tight them again it doesn’t work. Maybe this can help someone.

    Alex Mufatti - Antwort

    • Entferne die Abdeckung der Displaykabel.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Löse mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers oder einem Fingernagel den Stecker des Frontkamerakabels von seinem Anschluss vom Logic Board, indem du es gerade nach oben hebelst.

    Note carefully the order that they are removed.  My new display had them in the WRONG order and I spent about 2 minutes trying to figure out what was wrong until I compared the new screen with the old screen and saw that they were in wrong sequence.  Fortunately they were relatively easy to fold out of the way and put them in the right order.  After that they popped right into place.  The new cables don’t have the “fold” yet so display had to be held at 90 degrees until all three were installed and the cover reattached.

    David Rogers - Antwort

    I pop up these screen connectors using my fingernail. After doing a lot of repairs, this is the easiest and fastest way to get them loose.

    Kenneth Hilstan - Antwort

    • Löse mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers oder einem Fingernagel den Stecker des Digitizerkabels vom Logic Board, indem du es gerade nach oben hebelst.

    • Wenn du das Kabel wieder verbindest drücke nicht in der Mitte des Steckers. Drücke erst an einem Ende, dann am gegenüberliegenden. Beim Drücken in der Mitte des Kabels kann der Stecker verbiegen und beschädigt werden.

    Recolor that "pinned" note about not pushing on the center in "RED" if you get a chance. Just sayin'.

    William Turner - Antwort

    Good call. Thanks for the tip!

    Evan Noronha -

    I can't seem to get the digitizer cable to snap back into place. Any suggestions?

    gbmazur - Antwort

    Yes--if you, like me, could not get the digitizer connector to seat, you've probably got confused on the reassembly order. I had to remove the EMI shield (seven screws), and reinstall it ON TOP of the big flap tongue that comes with the new digitizer, rearranging the order of the connector tails. Note that one of the connectors is a bit shorter than the other, and one of the receptacles on the iPhone is shorter as well. Make sure you're laying down the tails and connectors in the right order when you reassemble! The display data cable--sideways to the others, toward the outer edge, goes first. Then the longer connector, and finally the shorter one. When they're seated, they're seated, and you'll be sure of it.

    David Shaddock - Antwort

    • Löse mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers oder einem Fingernagel den Stecker des Displaydatenkabels von seinem Anschluss vom Logic Board, indem du es gerade nach oben hebelst.

    I notice there are 3 flex cables, does this disassembly guide apply to the verizon version of iPhone 6s? I don't want to order the wrong digitizer screen for my new and improved iPhone that i somehow managed to crack the screen on.

    Bailey Duncan - Antwort

    There are four cables to disconnect here to complete this process, at least on my phone. The replacement screen also had 4, so no problem.

    Scott Young - Antwort

    I am having a hard time reattaching the LCD cable. Is it possible I bent the connectors? Or possibly the gaskets around it are interfering? I’d like to just pull all of that waterproofing gasket off! >:(

    Amanda Cooper (Doula) - Antwort

    Did you end up going this? My screen is black so I'm trying to figure out what i did

    Alex Tanner -

    I neglected to detach the battery before taking this step and upon reassembly I have no display. What might be my next step to repair.

    Dennis Gagomiros - Antwort

    You can try reseating the cables, but the likely answer is that your logic board’s backlight circuit is blown. If you power on your phone and you can see an image on the display by shining a bright light on it, your backlight circuit is toast. This is a common repair and very fixable, but requires microsoldering equipment and expertise. It’s not a DIY.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I made the same mistake and I'm wondering if you got a fix for it? Is the damage done on the screen assembly or phone itself?

    goesprotocall -

    My screen replacement only comes with two flex cables but all of the videos are showing three. It is not working to connect the flex cables to the connectors

    cellabella1 - Antwort

    The third flex cable would be for the front-facing camera, sensors, etc. If you bought a display that doesn’t include those components, you’ll need to transfer them to your new display first, and then you’ll be able to install it and plug everything in. The instructions are over here. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

  3. Frohes Fest, frohes Tüfteln
    Pack's ein, pack's aus, pack's an: Erhalte 12 € Rabatt auf deinen Einkauf ab 50 € mit dem Code FIXMAS12
    Frohes Fest, frohes Tüfteln
    Pack's ein, pack's aus, pack's an: Erhalte 12 € Rabatt auf deinen Einkauf ab 50 € mit dem Code FIXMAS12
    • Entferne die Displayeinheit.

    If you're replacing the adhesive, be sure to check the two tabs on the display that receive the pentalobe screws before setting the display on the new adhesive. The tabs on my display were bent inward slightly—just out of reach of the pentalobe screws. I didn't bend these out before setting the display and was forced to re-open the display to adjust them, ruining my carefully placed adhesive.

    cdinger - Antwort

    There is no need to remove camera or the logic board if all you want to do is replace the lightning assembly. Leaving things in place will save you a number of steps. Proceed directly to Step 35 and save yourself all this work.

    Ira Goldman - Antwort

    Also read comments on step 37 as others have also pointed out that there is no need to pull logic board and you can skip those steps mentioned.

    Ira Goldman - Antwort

    Unless you are replacing the speaker you can skip to step 34 as there is no need to remove the logic board.

    Bryan Solo - Antwort

    My replacement display was not functional, but I didn’t test it until after my adhesive was already applied. Might be worth double-checking the replacement screen works before applying the adhesive at all. (though I’m glad I tried it before closing it up!)

    Ben - Antwort

    When reconnecting to the logic board, reverse the order, so display first, then digitizer and finally camera. The front pannel slides into small edge of the backchannel. So start at the top when you put front and back together.

    Joep Willemsen - Antwort

    be sure battery is disconnected before reassembling the display —in case you reconnected it to position battery

    Christa - Antwort

    • Verwende das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um die iSight Kamera aus ihrem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board zu lösen.

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    • Entferne die folgenden beiden Kreuzschlitzschrauben über der Halterung der iSight Kamera:

      • Eine 1,6 mm Schraube

      • Eine 2,0 mm Schraube

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Entferne die Halterung der Kamera.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Führe einen Spudger zwischen dem Rückgehäuse und dem Kameramodul an der Seite der Kamera ein.

    • Setze den Hebel vorsichtig an der Kamera an, um sie aus ihrem Gehäuse zu schubsen.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Entferne die Kamera.

    There is one more step after this.

    You must remove some metal part before you push out the camera ring.

    Also must have new metal part because after you take out (metal part) cant back agin the same part.

    Sry for my english.

    Best regards

    It Step - Antwort

    When I did it, the metal part didn’t pop out and stayed in. I just lined it up with the screw hole as the metal part also had a hole. I assume it’s to bridge something. Hope this helps.

    spearson -

    Hi - after doing this I had a little part left over … eek.. part number 160-5Z and two little screws… can you help by tells my me where ive gone wrong please? Thank you

    Hayley graham - Antwort

    When I did it, the metal part didn’t pop out and stayed in. I just lined it up with the screw hole on the upper right side as the metal part also had a hole. I assume it’s to bridge something. Hope this helps.

    spearson -

    • Führe ein SIM-Kartenauswurf-Werkzeug oder eine Büroklammer in das kleine Loch im SIM-Kartenfach ein.

    • Drücke, damit das Fach herauskommt.

      • Du musst vielleicht ganz schön kräftig drücken.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Entferne die SIM-Fach-Einheit aus dem iPhone.

    • Wenn du die SIM-Karte wieder einsetzt, achte darauf, dass sie richtig zum Fach hin ausgerichtet ist.

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    • Entferne die zwei 2,3 mm Kreuzschlitz Schrauben, die die Abdeckung des oberen Komponentenkabels befestigen.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Entferne die Abdeckung des oberen Komponentenkabels.

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    • Entferne die folgenden fünf Kreuzschlitz Schrauben, die die obere linke Wlan-Antenne befestigen:

      • Zwei 1,5 mm Schrauben

      • Eine 2,3 mm Schraube

      • Eine 1,9 mm Schraube

      • Eine 2,0 mm Schraube

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Entferne die Wlan-Antenne oben links.

    Step 32, 33 & 34 & their pictures show the middle case "One 1.9 mm Phillips screw" under the Wi-Fi antenna chip having been removed when it actually isn't removed until step 42. This made me think I had missed a step when I hadn't.

    blitzn - Antwort

    • Verwende das flache Ende des Spudgers, um das Audiokabel von seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board zu trennen.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Nutze das spitze Ende eines Spudgers, um das Antennenkabel von seinem Anschluss in der oberen rechten Ecke des Logic Boards zu lösen.

    It is still recommended to disconnect the antenna in this step as it will allow some slack you may need but tugging or pulling on the antenna cable down at the speaker could still damage it so be patience. Also lift on the connection from the metal portion as lifting from the cable could cause it to snap.

    Bryan Solo - Antwort

    • Nutze das spitze Ende eines Spudgers, um das Antennenkabel von seinem Anschluss in der unteren linken Ecke des Logic Boards zu lösen.

    Be super careful here, pry the cable by the brass connector so as not to snap it off

    Andrew Truglia - Antwort

    During reassembly: be aware that the replacement antenna connector (the one that comes as part of the lightning port assembly) might be a very snug fit here. It probably took me close to 10 minutes to get mine on. Thankfully the little sucker is stronger than it looks, or else I would have smushed it flat multiple times. You’ll know that you finally have it when it lightly snaps in place.

    crimsontideaggie - Antwort

    • Schiebe das flache Ende vom Spudger unter das Flachbandkabel vom Lightning Anschluss. Nun hebst du es an, um das Kabel von seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board zu lösen.

    Reassembly: A lot of adhesive held this cable down. Had difficulty getting this ribbon cable reconnected to the socket; it kept popping back up. I think the antenna cable was not exactly where it needed to be, and I had to mess with logic board a bit to make sure the antenna cable was wedged down where it needed to be.

    Heidi Moser - Antwort

    Unless you are replacing the speaker you may skip to step 46 as removal of the logic board is not necessary.

    Bryan Solo - Antwort

    • Jetzt ziehe vorsichtig das Antennenkabel hoch, um es von den zwei Clips an der rechten Seite des Logic Boards wegzuführen.

    nope, don't bother taking the logic board out if your just replacing the lightning connector. when removing the speaker in the steps after you can just fold it over to the side leaving it connected by the antenna. obviously not very professional but saves a very lot of messing with the 6s's stupid wee plastic clips, brackets and what not.

    waynemcguigan - Antwort

    Thanks friend!!

    Pedro -

    Wish I had read this comment earlier. Had a bear of a time reconnecting this antenna cable.

    Heidi Moser - Antwort

    • Entferne die 1,3 mm Kreuzschlitz Schraube, die die NFC-Halterung am Logic Board befestigt.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Entferne die NFC-Halterung.

    Именно эта деталь отвечает за нормальную работу ApplePay, при возникновении ошибок часто является причиной, но не всегда.

    Matvey Sokolov - Antwort

    “This particular part is responsible for the normal operation of ApplePay, when errors occur it is often the cause, but not always.” Translated this comment into english because I found it very helpful and figured other english speakers would find it helpful to know as well.

    TitanTech Service Center - Antwort

    • Entferne die folgenden zwei Kreuzschlitz Schrauben:

      • Eine 2,5 mm Schraube an der Oberseite vom Logic Board

      • Eine 1,4 mm Schraube im oberen Rand des Rückgehäuses

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Entferne den Kunststoff-Clip.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Entferne nun die letzten drei Schrauben, die das Logic Board im Rückgehäuse befestigen:

      • Eine 1,9 mm Kreuzschlitz Schraube

      • Eine 2,5 mm Sechskantschraube

      • Eine 1,8 mm Kreuzschlitz Schraube

    The tool to remove the hex standoff screw WASNT included in the recommended parts list. A hex driver bit WAS included; however the hex screw needs to be removed using a socket type bit. I removed it using the tweasers as pliers.

    mario cruz - Antwort

    You're right, we listed the wrong driver type. It's listed correctly now—the 2.5 mm nut driver is the tool you want.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I used a 2.5mm nut driver for the standoff.

    leres - Antwort

    I found it easy using flat head 1 bit

    Darnel Braxton - Antwort

    It works with the iphone Pentalobe Screwdriver for me ...

    javiercebrianrico - Antwort

    It worked with Pentalone driver.

    Jay .Patel - Antwort

    For some reason the 2.5 mm nut driver in my iFixIt tool set does not work. I think the nut is a bit too shallow (short) to fit into the driver itself

    ray - Antwort

    Hi Ray! If you think you have a faulty bit, please don’t hesitate to contact customer service, they’ll take care of you!

    Sam Lionheart -

    I have the same issue! the 2.5 mm nut driver in my 64 bit iFixIt tool set does not work.

    just1ed - Antwort

    I remove the 2.5mm nut only with my fingernails! its really work

    Julian mustofa - Antwort

    • Schiebe ein Opening Pick (Plektron) unter die Unterkante des Logic Boards, zwischen Board und Lautsprecher.

    • Verwende das Opening Pick, um das Logic Board vorsichtig aus dem Gehäuse zu heben.

    • Jetzt kannst du das Logic Board entfernen.

    While I haven’t actually used this guide, I’ll be back as soon as I get a replacement logic board…can anyone tell me where to get one for a 6s+ ?

    johnysaunt - Antwort

    On reassembly, be sure the audio control cable isABOVE the logic board when you place it.

    Cathy Sanford - Antwort

    • Entferne die beiden 1,5 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben an der Taptic Engine

    • Entferne die Taptic Engine.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Verwende eine Pinzette, um die Spitzen der Batterieklebestreifen am unteren Rand der Batterie zu entfernen.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Versuche nicht, die Streifen während dieses Vorgangs zu verknittern, es wird sonst schwierig mit ihnen klarzukommen, und sie können nicht wieder geglättet werden.

    • Ziehe einen der Klebestreifen gerade heraus, in Richtung der Unterseite des iPhone.

      • Für beste Ergebnisse ziehst du den Streifen in einem Winkel von 60 ° oder weniger heraus.

    • Der Streifen dehnt sich auf ein Mehrfaches seiner ursprünglichen Länge. Ziehe konstant weiter. Wenn nötig fasse den Streifen wieder näher am das IPhone.

    • Weiterziehen, bis der Streifen vollständig entfernt ist.

    • Wenn die Batterie-Klebelaschen an irgendeiner Stelle während des Entfernungsvorgangs abbrechen, verwende deine Finger odere eine stumpfe Pinzette, um die verbleibende Länge des Klebstoffs abzuziehen.

      • Wenn einer der Klebestreifen während dieser Prozedur unter der Batterie abreißt und nicht erreicht werden kann, entferne den restlichen Streifen und gehen dann zu Schritt 48.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Wiederhole den vorherigen Schritt für den zweiten Klebestreifen.

      • Benutze eine Hand, um die Batterie zu halten, während du den zweiten Streifen entfernst, oder der Streifen kann die Batterie aus dem Telefon schleudern, sobald sie sich vom hinteren Gehäuse löst.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Wenn du alle drei Klebestreifen erfolgreich entfernt hast, fahre mit dem nächsten Schritt fort. Andernfalls musst du den Akku aus dem hinteren Gehäuse herausziehen.

    • Bereite einen iOpener vor und wende ihn auf die Rückseite des hinteren Gehäuses direkt über die Batterie an. Alternativ kannst du Hitze mit einer Heißluftpistole oder Fön erzeugen.

    • Nach etwa einer Minute, drehst du das Telefon um und verwendest eine Plastikkarte, um den verbleibenden Kleber hinter der Batterie zu entfernen.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Entferne den Akku.

    • Wenn du einen neuen Akku einsetzt, verwende diese Anleitung zum Anbringen der Klebestreifen.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Drehe die einzelne 1,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube an der Halterung des Blitzes heraus.

    • Entferne die Halterung des Blitzes.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Hebe den Blitz mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus seinem Sitz im Rückgehäuse.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Entferne folgende fünf Kreuzschlitzschrauben:

      • Zwei 2,5 mm Schrauben in der linken Kante des Rückgehäuses

      • Eine 2,1 mm Schraube #000 in der linken Kante des Rückgehäuses

      • Zwei 2,1 mm Schrauben in der rechten Kante des Rückgehäuses

    • Wenn du diese Schrauben beim Einbau zu stark anziehst, dann klicken möglicherweise die Lautstärketasten und die Einschalttaste nicht mehr richtig. Prüfe das Klicken jeder Taste, bevor du weiter arbeitest.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Löse vorsichtig das Mikrofon mit der Spudgerspitze aus dem Gehäuse.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Schiebe ein Plektrum zwische das obere Komponentenkabel und das Rückgehäuse.

    • Trenne das Kabel vorsichtig vom Rückgehäuse.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Schiebe das Plektrum weiter unter das Kabel bis es ganz vom Rückgehäuse frei ist.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Entferne die obere Kabelbaugruppe mit allen Komponenten.

    When replacing this harness/flex, the mute switch is not supplies with the REQUIRED bracket. There is no way to securely attach the mute switch to the original mute bracket or to a replacement bracket. The supplied mute switch only (less bracket) makes this entire repair useless as there is no way to fasten the switch to a used or replacement bracket as it is all one assebmly. SOLUTION: purchase a flex with all metal parts attached to the flex. These are available from other suppliers. Why iFixit sells this one likely because it's cheaper but this repair using their bracketless mute switch is NOT possible.

    Jblack - Antwort

    A bummer that I discovered your comment after I tried and figured this out myself. This is really frustrating that iFixit does not warn one that the repair can’t work with the part they sell

    arnstefan - Antwort

    The guide has been updated to include how to transfer the mute switch from your old cable to the new one.

    The part iFixit sells is fully functional and should allow you to complete the repair. Sorry about the confusion!

    Arthur Shi - Antwort

    Where it was updated? People are saying about mute switch wich are attached to the metal part not plastic one. You can not do anything with it.

    radiogen - Antwort

    We added the step below this (step 57) to demonstrate how to remove the mute switch cover. As for the actual microswitch, the replacement part iFixit sells should have that installed on the metal bracket.

    Arthur Shi -

    • Wenn das Ersatzteil nicht mit der Abdeckung des Stumm-Schalters geliefert wurde, musst du die Schalterabdeckung entfernen, und sie auf das neue Teil übertragen.

      • Drücke die Schalterabdeckung mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers nach unten und halte die alte Halterung gut fest.

      • Verwende eine Pinzette oder deine Finger, um die Schalterabdeckung vorsichtig zu schwenken, so dass die Schalterabdeckungsstifte aus ihren Clips herausgleiten.

      • Hebe die Schalterabdeckung gerade nach oben weg.

    • Um die Abdeckung des Stumm-Schalters auf die neue obere Kabelbaugruppe zu installieren, führe die Schritte in umgekehrter Reihenfolge aus.

      • Die Stifte sollten nahe der Clipöffnung liegen. Versuche nicht, die Stifte weit in die Clips zu drücken. Die Schalterabdeckung wird sicher gehalten, sobald du die Halterung wieder auf das Gehäuse schraubst.

      • Die Schalterabdeckung kann nur in einer bestimmten Richtung eingesetzt werden. Wenn es dir schwer fällt, die Schalterabdeckung auf das neue Teil zu setzen, versuche, den Schalter so zu schalten, dass der schwarze hervorstehende Hebel in einer anderen Position ist.

    • Bevor du das iPhone wieder zusammensetzt, überprüfe alle Schalter und Tasten, um zu sehen, ob sie physisch funktionieren.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Fasse die Metallleiste hinter einer der beiden Tastenabdeckungen der Lautstärkeregelung an und ziehe die Tastenabdeckung aus ihrem Sitz im Rückgehäuse.

    • Wiederhole den Vorgang für die andere Tastenabdeckung.

    • Achte beim Einbau auf die richtige Ausrichtung: die Metallleiste sollte nach unten klappen, in Richtung Rückseite des Gehäuses.

    I changed the backcover and the buttons. The new buttons had no little round metal knobs in the middle. If these knobs are missing, you can't use the switches. I removed the metal knobs carefully with a scalpel and glued them to the new buttons.

    Michael - Antwort

Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

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such a heavy job for only changing these parts... thanks for the guides

Dhimas Ari Pamungkas - Antwort

I am building my own phone of just parts from China, but realised now that I don't have the metal rings to push the button back (I don't mean the metal spacers). I am talking about the part on the last step.. Does anyone know where to order this kinda object, because I cannot find this object anywhere

Berk - Antwort

i have also built my own iphone 6s you can buy an iphone 6s button set online for quite cheap this will usally come with the metal clicks

Kade Baitrum -

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