Einleitung
Diese Anleitung zeigt, wie das Display im Surface Book ausgetauscht werden kann.
Wenn das Glas bereits gesprungen ist, klebe den gesamten Bildschirm mit Paketband ab, um das Glas zusammen zu halten. Du kannst die Lautsprecheröffnungen als Einstiegspunkt nutzen, und die Rückseite des LCDs für mehr Stabilität beim Hebeln nutzen (da das Glas nur splittern wird, wenn es bereits gerissen ist).
Was du brauchst
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Erwärme den unteren Rand des Displays mit einem iOpener. Das weicht den Kleber auf, der das Displayglas festhält.
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Drücke den blauen Griff zurück, damit die Arme der Anti-Clamp frei beweglich werden.
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Lege das Surface so auf einen Gegenstand, dass es waagrecht auf gleicher Höhe zwischen den beiden Armen liegt.
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Bringe die Saugheber nahe mittig an der Unterkante des Surface an, einen auf der Vorderseite, den anderen auf der Rückseite.
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Halte die Anticlamp unten gut fest und drücke fest auf den oberen Saugheber, damit er sich festsaugt.
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Drücke den blauen Griff vorwärts, damit die Arme wieder fest werden.
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Drehe den Griff eine volle Umdrehung im Uhrzeigersinn, bis du merkst, dass sich die Saugheber dehnen.
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Achte darauf, dass sich die Saugheber weiterhin gegenüber stehen. Wenn sie sich nicht mehr gegenüber stehen, dann löse die Saugheber ein wenig ab und schiebe sie in die richtige Position.
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Warte eine Minute, damit sich der Kleber allmählich ablösen kann und sich ein Spalt bilden kann.
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Wenn das Display nicht heiß genug ist, dann erwärme die Unterkante mit einem Haartrockner.
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Wenn der Spalt groß genug ist, dann setze ein Plektrum unter das Display ein.
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Überspringe den nächsten Schritt.
Didn't worked for me. And the top suction cup is now broken where the anti-clamp and the suction cup unites. Even though, it was extermely difficult to keep the anti-clamp in place. The top suction cup will begin to move around and the anti-clamp will not stay vertical, going sideways or tilted. I ended up using a standard suction cup and finally could move forward. Also the anti-clamp gets very hot when used with a hair dryer, and touching it is almost impossible.
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Bringe einen Saugheber so nahe wie möglich mittig an der Unterkante an.
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Ziehe fest und gleichmäßig am Saugheber, bis ein Spalt zwischen dem Display und dem Rahmen entstanden ist.
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Setzen ein Plektrum in den Spalt ein.
The glass is extremely brittle, so do not keep applying too much upward force while clearing the adhesive, or it will shatter and make you yell at your dog!
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Schiebe das Plektrum zum Auftrennen des Klebers um den ganzen Rand des Displays herum.
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Hebe das Display vorsichtig an, aber entferne es nicht komplett, bevor nicht die Kabel darunter abgetrennt worden sind..
Be carful around the power switch and volume buttons when separating as the WiFi Arial is attached to the casing under the adhesive strip, second Arial is located further along the case about the same distance away from edge of cases as the power and volume button .
This^^^
Use heat, be patience don’t rush, go slow to prevent breaking screen like I did. I also damage the antenna to the wireless onboard adapter. The antenna is glued between the screen and the plastic strip protecting camera and is easy to damage. I didn’t realize this until after the repair was complete and my surface book no longer recognized its WiFi device. I have to use a usb/Bluetooth adapter. Good luck.
how to remove WiFi antenna im stucked at this step.
Not just only around the power switch and volume button, but the whole top. There are three antennas in the left, middle and right top of the display
Not just only around the power switch and volume button, but the whole top. There are three antennas in the left, middle and right top of the display
Don't just be careful around the power switch and volume button, but the whole top. There are three antennas in the left, middle and right top of the display
There are three antennas in the left, middle and right top of the display.
You can use the replacement adhesive strips as a guide to how deep to go with your pick (you did get replacement adhesive strips, right? - iFixit store IF412-035-1).
Be careful when removing the old glue from the back side of the screen. The black color is on that surface, and if you scrape it, you'll scrape through the paint leaving unsightly scratches that will show through the bezel when you're done.
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Entferne zuerst das Flachbandkabel rechts. Entferne vorsichtig die Metallklammer mit einer abgewinkelten Pinzette, um das Ende des Flachbandkabels freizulegen. Entferne das Flachbandkabel.
I used a blue tool with small scoop on the side opposite the tines to leverage the bracket off. Easily popped off that way, after a few attempts with the curved tweezers filed.
This blue tool seemed to work best for me, as well as knowing the pry point is opposite of the tines.
mavzerb -
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Entferne als nächstes die Metallabschirmung, die das andere Flachbandkabel abdeckt. Entferne dann das Flachbandkabel.
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Entferne das Display.
Remove only the plug to the far right leave the ribbon cables and the clips alone What was confusing in this photo it looked like he removed the large ribbon clip, he did not. I did and busted the clip that secured the cable. I had to buy a new touch sensor board.
Don’t make this mistake, look carefully before you do. Stop before going to far.
I managed to bust my connector as well, despite trying like !&&* not to - awful design on microsoft's part, but the instructions really need to call out just how exactly one needs to remove these without destroying other components
Manuka -
James Foley, I've just done the same: busted the clip on the wide connector (had to detach the ribbon cables to replace a broken screen with a new one). Where and how did you find a replacement board?
I assume your talking about step 8. I removed all 3 ribbons easily. 2 had latches that need to be opened. I had the whole sensor out and seperated.
I think I could have done this in less than 30 minutes since the computer back was bulging with the batteries swelling. To my surprise, the batteries were stuck to the back with black adhesive so the connector popped loose. Fearing that I had screwed up the connector, I plugged the computer into the new battery pack and found everything was working and the battery showed a full charge. TaDa. With my wife’s help holding the back, I used a hair dryer and wooden spatula to remove the old battery pack. Rather than trying to apply more adhesive to the edges of the back I used black electrical tape to keep it in place.
I did the screen and battery. Battery swelled and cracked the screen. Scariest part was heating the battery. Reading all the labels about possibility of fire. I heated the back and the old battery slipped right out. adhesive was still good so I put the new battery right in on top of it.
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Vergleiche dein Ersatzteil mit dem Originateil - möglicherweise musst du fehlende Bauteile übertragen oder Schutzfolien am Neuteil abziehen, bevor du es einbauen kannst.
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, folge den Schritten dieser Anleitung in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Entsorge deinen Elektromüll fachgerecht.
Lief die Reparatur nicht wie geplant? In unserem Forum findest du Hilfe bei der Fehlersuche.
Vergleiche dein Ersatzteil mit dem Originateil - möglicherweise musst du fehlende Bauteile übertragen oder Schutzfolien am Neuteil abziehen, bevor du es einbauen kannst.
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, folge den Schritten dieser Anleitung in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Entsorge deinen Elektromüll fachgerecht.
Lief die Reparatur nicht wie geplant? In unserem Forum findest du Hilfe bei der Fehlersuche.
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It is very unlikely you will get this screen off without breaking it. Luckily, my customer only wanted the SSD out of the device so he didn't care if I damaged it. This screen is crazy fragile and the glue is very very strong. Do not do this job thinking you will likely not break the screen, unless you have done it before.
The only way to remove it without breaking it is to use good scotch tape and completely cover the screen with a minimum 4 layers of tape. This will keep the screen intact - but you still have to be very careful.
That’s definitely not the only way. I just did it with a guitar pick and heat pad. After doing a ton of Surface Pro 3’s, I think this one is actually pretty easy in comparison.
austin -
I needed 3 hours for this, Did this the first time. There is everything glued. and real hard to not break the screen.
Can you put the screen back on after removing it?
Yep, clean the old adhesive and apply some Tesa 4695 or 61395.
Ben -
If you have a cracked screen already and want to do this to replace with a new screen, is it as hard to accomplish?
Did you manage to do it?
Where can you actually buy a replacement screen?
Repair Parts Plus sells the screen with the option to buy the tools required to pry your old screen off and an option to buy a screen protector.
Is the back light/lcd for the Surface Book sealed? If I used isopropyl alcohol to weaken the adhesive, would it stain the back or anything? If anyone knows, please reply.
Seems as though there was another component that damage at the top of the screen when battery expanded and popped screen. Looks like maybe wifi antenna. Is this true and is that easy to add to the repair?????? Like it was under the factory adhesive
Additionally, is the “processor” on the back of the screen removable? Can’t seem to find a screen with this attached. Not sure if that is the NVidia controller or what roll it plays. Thanks for any help.
Heat gun helps.
My screen is separating from the chassis on my Surface Book - 1st gen. It is loose most of the way across the bottom and right side. The screen is still intact. I would like to complete the removal process and then reattach the screen. Is there a recommended adhesive?
Hi. My surface book One, has what seen 4 burn spots. 2 on top and 4 on each side. So what is the issue here? Battery burning out?
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The discoloration that appears on the Surface Book1 display is a direct result of the battery packaging expanding like a balloon causing pressure under the LCD screen thus making the display flex and bulge; as if you were to put a small airbag inside the unit and inflated it.
The battery needs to be replaced.
iFixit tutorials are great, but why do they always stop at the removal stage? Would be great to know which adhesives are recommended for the new screen!
Hey did you ever decide on one?
I just finished replacing the screen battery in my Surface Book 1705. Everything works and it is almost as good as news.
"Allmost" because I left out gluing two areas along the top of the screen because I didn’t dare removing all of the old glue there as there is some conductive material underneath (antennas?). Those area about 50mm wide and sit approx 1/4 in from the top corner. I cut the adhesive strips to avoid having two layers.
I orderer both the battery and the adhesive strips on ebay.
To succesfully remove the screen without damage is totally doable, at least after getting some “help” from the swelling batteries. :-)
I used a small heat gun, guitar picks to keep the screen from the frame after cutting and some pieces of thin stiff plastic (from a card lamination kit) to do most of the cutting. Take your time and don’t go in too deep. About 5mm is enough along most of the sides and bottom. 10mm in the corners and along the top edge. There is a lot of stuff along the top edge (the two conductive strips and a partially loose lens) so care care.
Removing the old battery was a PITA. I think that you should just take the board completely out. Unless your are not too ham-fisted, that is not too difficult. There are two small ordinary white plugs for the speakers and the other two closer to the hinge are pressed on like the two connectors to the screen.
I did two mistakes during assembly. The first (and huge one) was not to disconnect and remove the main camera (the one in the corner). Because of that, I didn’t notice that the powerswitch “button” was resting on the egde of the button in the frame and I managed to break the switch on the board when I put the screw in. :-( To replace the button took some time and it ended up costing a lot more than the battery and adhesive strips. Since I don’t have the equipment and experience in micro soldering SMD, I had to send it away for this job. The second mistake was not to make sure that the orientation of the two magnets along the edge of the screen was correct. Luckily, I loosely taped the screen to the frame for the initial test and actually tried to attach the pen. I got that sorted before removing the protective film on the adhesive strips.
After being super happy getting the screen battery replaced and my Surface Book back in business, I dicovered that I probably have the same problem with the other batteries in the base. :-( ifixit, YouTube and ebay once more…
I did the screen replacement, moved the touch controller and connected the ribbons but when I turned on the PC, the screen doesn’t receive any signal and stays black. I can see windows is loading as cameras turn on (windows hello) scanning for me. Moreover when I connect to an external display all is good and I can verify touch is working. I’ve tried both with the new screen and the original (broken) one but the result is the same.
While I was waiting for the screen to be delivered I used the computer with an external monitor for some time and the cable was exposed to air and potentially dust for a month.
I suspect it might be the LCD ribbon but I don’t remember any special interaction with it and visually it looks perfect, apart from being flexed in a few places. Any help would be appreciated.
What glue do you suggest for the replacement screen to be stuck back down with - where could that be purchased?
Thanks
For those interested, I believe the only way to remove the screen is with a heat gun. The ifixit (iopener) bearing can't even get to 100 degrees and the side where the camera sits is so full of adhesive that I had to work on it for at least two hours. The temperature I used is 200 degrees for 3 sides of the screen and 220 degrees Celsius for the side with the camera. Surely if I had been more experienced I could have increased the temperature up to 280 degrees but I was afraid of burning the screen. Another tip: when you have enough space to loosen the screen, carefully remove the adhesive on the side of the camera, perhaps with tweezers and help yourself to force it, but without exaggerating, with a suction cup.
Once you insert an opening pick, you can use a few drops of Acetone around the edge to loosen the glue. I found this much easier than keep reheating the iOpener and possibly cracked the display.
dan89fernando - Antwort
Bad idea to use acetone with these types of devices because of the plastic parts that can become either damaged or outright melted by the solvent. (Especially the ribbon cables and connections) You are better off using isopropyl alcohol or nothing. Easy enough just to avoid this idea completely. Not to mention that it is possible to cause the display to shatter due to thermal shock when you apply the solvent to a heated surface. Good luck to those that try anyway.
Rick Sanchez - Antwort
The iOpener did nothing to loosen up the glue. Had to use a hair dryer for almost 40 minutes to get it softened up enough to open.
david alexis - Antwort
Took at least 30 mins with a hair dryer to get the screen off. That 20 min completion time is total BS.
Tommy - Antwort
my screen is 25% off
Daniel R Patton - Antwort
Be EXTRA careful when running the opening pick around the bottom right portion of the screen. This is where the touch controller attaches to the display, and the ribbon cable is only about a quarter inch away from the edge and is easy to rip out.
Alexander V Trofimuk - Antwort
Very important hint!
Andreas -
Having recently been inside a Surface Book I purchased via Facebook marketplace, consider the screen a “cost” of replacing the battery and the pressure is off of you. I tried VERY hard not to break the glass, but…still happened. With that out of the way, I successfully replaced the screen, battery, and also battery in the base. Microsoft should be ashamed of this device. All that engineering effort built into their crappy hinge, only to have the batteries fail prematurely. Also, the mechanism to release the screen from the base sucks real bad. Mine doesn’t work, I carry a paper clip with me to unleash the tablet mode. Pathetic. Thank GOD I picked this up second hand for a few hundred bucks. Pity the folks that paid two grand or more for this turd.
Ken Okpych - Antwort
after I did reassemble back the screen, before applying the new tapes I did test it for one day and I did find out the right release mechanism was not working anymore. Accidentally I did disconnect the control wire coming from the main board. Easy to put it back in position. No need to dismantle all again. So, you can give a try and check the connectors. Both the connectors did disconnect while removing the mainboard. Just be careful and check them before gluing all back! Hope it helps.
Gian Paolo -
I just tried for over an hour and a half with heat packs and a dyson hair dryer, and got absolutely nowhere… I even bought the iSclack and had ifixit openers at the ready. I guess I’ll try a heat gun next (after I buy one). If anyone has any other suggestions, it would really be appreciated… I’m so disappointed in Microsoft right now.
Trevor Brown - Antwort
If you use a heat gun make sure to keep it moving along the edge and use your hand to shield the rest of the screen from getting hit with heat. You only want it to be hot to the touch and no further. You take a big risk of discoloring the screen if you overheat a part. Heat gun did make life much easier but you have to be very very careful and concentrated while using it.
andrew.j.nieto -
I got my computer open after completely abandoning the “step 1” instructions here. The hot pack (iOPener) and suction cups (iSclack) were completely worthless for me, and did absolutely nothing. Instead, simply get yourself a tool with a very thin metal knife, such as the “Jimmy” sold here on iFixit.
Use a heat gun to get a section of the screen nice and hot (I went with ~160 degrees Fahrenheit) then insert the Jimmy vertically in between the screen and the metal frame (a tiny gap.) Then, carefully flip it horizontally to get between the tape and the screen. After this, carefully slide the knife along the edge while using a heat gun to hover right over the place the knife will next be (I used gloves to prevent burning my hands.) Do NOT insert the knife more than a half an inch into the gap, or you might damage your screen (stay within the black bezel range.)
This will QUICKLY, EASILY, and SAFELY get the screen off.
Trevor Brown - Antwort
Attempted to do this without enough heat and the glass shattered; recommend using a heat gun and potentially using repair tape to keep the glass intact. The screen removal is the hardest part of everything.
J.K. - Antwort
I broke my screen too, but I blame myself for being impatient. Once I took my time heating with a hair dryer and getting the opening pick in there, with enough heat I could just slide the pick down the edges. Next time I’ll know better!
Kirk Feindel - Antwort
I tried the heated iOpener. I had some success but then used too much force and cracked the screen. My advice is to take you time and use the iOpener often on the very edge of the screen. Use the suction cups or iSclack as your primary tools to separate the glass form the frame. And a second set of hands is very helpful to hold the metal part of the screen onto your table. The glass will come off with patience and perseverance.
standurlacher - Antwort
Use heat, be patience don’t rush, go slow to prevent breaking screen like I did. I also damage the antenna to the wireless onboard adapter. The antenna is glued between the screen and the enclosure and is easy to damage. I didn’t realize this until after the repair was complete and my surface book no longer recognized its WiFi device. I have to use a usb/Bluetooth adapter. Good luck.
Nyaniso Rahotep - Antwort
This is vital information - I also destroyed the antenna in the process, because the pick does not discriminate between layers of adhesive. . Microsoft did a horrible design job on this.
Manuka -
The WiFi antenna is not physically connected to anything. It has a capacitive interaction with a small brick below the plastic so you can build it by yourself with a 0.2mm foil of copper or aluminum, cut the same geometry and tape it . It works. iFixit guide is pretty incomplete about that point, without mentioning all the screws forgotten to mark.
Gian Paolo -
Best place of entry for the pick is by the speaker on the right and left side. Heat up that area and then get the pick through there. I found that pretty easy and sliding the pick around the bottom (where the tablet attaches to keyboard). Unfortunately, I broke the screen up top where the webcam is. Not sure if that area is more brittle than the others due to webcam, but word of advice is to be careful there. Using a hair dryer worked best and getting this very toasty; the iOpener was useless.
Quan Thai - Antwort
Both sides of the central block “camera-Mic” there are three FSP antennas. They are easy to cut off while using an opener tool because a part can stick to the LCD and a part on the shell. So pay attention! I did cut one! You can clearly see the three antennas position in the first picture of the step 11.
Gian Paolo - Antwort