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Einleitung

Outside of catastrophic impact damage, the main reason to replace a midframe on a Nintendo Switch is because the joy-con mounting rail has been brutally ripped from the midframe, leaving no solid mounting for a replacement rail available.

In order to restore the security of the joy-con mount, it is necessary to replace the entire midframe, and this guide will step you through the procedure.

Note: When you remove the shield plate, you’ll need to replace the thermal compound between the plate and the heatsink. Since normal thermal paste isn’t designed to bridge large gaps, the closest replacement is K5 Pro viscous thermal paste. You will, however, need regular replacement thermal paste for the CPU.

  1. Before you begin this repair, make sure the device is completely powered off. Press and hold down the small round button on the back of the Joy Con controller. While you hold down the button, slide  the controller upward.
    • Before you begin this repair, make sure the device is completely powered off.

    • Press and hold down the small round button on the back of the Joy Con controller.

    • While you hold down the button, slide the controller upward.

  2. Continue sliding the Joy Con upward until it's completely removed from the console. Repeat this same process for the other Joy Con. Repeat this same process for the other Joy Con.
    • Continue sliding the Joy Con upward until it's completely removed from the console.

    • Repeat this same process for the other Joy Con.

    • Use a Y00 screwdriver to remove the four 6.3 mm-long screws securing the rear panel.

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

  3. Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following screws securing the rear panel: One 2.5 mm-long screw on the top edge of the device
    • Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following screws securing the rear panel:

    • One 2.5 mm-long screw on the top edge of the device

    • Two 2.5 mm-long screws on the bottom edge of the device

    • To prevent these tight screws from stripping, apply firm downward force, work slowly and try another JIS 000 or PH 000 driver if the screws won't come out.

  4. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 3.8 mm center screws on the sides of the device (one on each side). Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 3.8 mm center screws on the sides of the device (one on each side).
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 3.8 mm center screws on the sides of the device (one on each side).

  5. Use your finger to flip up the kickstand on the back of the device. If there's a microSD card in the microSD card slot, remove it now before you continue to the next step.
    • Use your finger to flip up the kickstand on the back of the device.

    • If there's a microSD card in the microSD card slot, remove it now before you continue to the next step.

  6. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the 1.6 mm screw in the kickstand well.
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the 1.6 mm screw in the kickstand well.

    • Close the kickstand.

  7. Open the game card cartridge flap. The game card cartridge flap attaches to the other half of the plastic shell, preventing you from completely lifting up the rear panel if it's closed. Lift the rear panel up from the bottom of the device and remove it.
    • Open the game card cartridge flap.

    • The game card cartridge flap attaches to the other half of the plastic shell, preventing you from completely lifting up the rear panel if it's closed.

    • Lift the rear panel up from the bottom of the device and remove it.

  8. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the 3.1 mm screw securing the microSD card reader to the device.
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the 3.1 mm screw securing the microSD card reader to the device.

  9. Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to lift the microSD card reader straight up from the device to disconnect and remove it. During reassembly, make sure the press connector underneath the foam pad is firmly connected to the motherboard. It may help to remove the foam pad before reinstalling the card reader.
    • Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to lift the microSD card reader straight up from the device to disconnect and remove it.

    • During reassembly, make sure the press connector underneath the foam pad is firmly connected to the motherboard. It may help to remove the foam pad before reinstalling the card reader.

  10. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the six 3 mm screws securing the shield plate to the device.
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the six 3 mm screws securing the shield plate to the device.

  11. Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to peel back the piece of foam on the top edge of the device near the fan exhaust port. If the foam doesn't easily peel away, don't force it as it might end up tearing. Carefully peel at different spots to pull back the foam.
    • Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to peel back the piece of foam on the top edge of the device near the fan exhaust port.

    • If the foam doesn't easily peel away, don't force it as it might end up tearing. Carefully peel at different spots to pull back the foam.

  12. Insert a spudger underneath the shield plate along the edge of the device. Pry up to lift the shield plate and remove it from the device. You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the shield plate is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste.
    • Insert a spudger underneath the shield plate along the edge of the device.

    • Pry up to lift the shield plate and remove it from the device.

    • You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the shield plate is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste.

    • A thick pink thermal compound bridges the gap between the shield plate and the copper heat sink underneath. Whenever the shield plate is removed, refer to our thermal paste guide to remove the old thermal compound and replace it with an appropriate compound, such as K5 Pro, during reassembly.

  13. Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard. Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard.

  14. Tilt the top edge of the device upward to allow the isopropyl alcohol to work its way underneath the battery. Hold for 1-2 minutes to allow time for the isopropyl alcohol to weaken the adhesive.
    • Tilt the top edge of the device upward to allow the isopropyl alcohol to work its way underneath the battery.

    • Hold for 1-2 minutes to allow time for the isopropyl alcohol to weaken the adhesive.

  15. Insert an opening pick into the gap between the battery and the wall of the battery well. Carefully dig the tip of the opening pick underneath the battery and slide it along the edge to begin slicing the adhesive. Take care not to puncture or bend the battery with your tool—a punctured or bent battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a thermal event.
    • Insert an opening pick into the gap between the battery and the wall of the battery well.

    • Carefully dig the tip of the opening pick underneath the battery and slide it along the edge to begin slicing the adhesive.

    • Take care not to puncture or bend the battery with your tool—a punctured or bent battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a thermal event.

  16. Leave the opening pick in place and apply a few more drops of adhesive remover or isopropyl alcohol inside the battery well.
    • Leave the opening pick in place and apply a few more drops of adhesive remover or isopropyl alcohol inside the battery well.

    • Tilt the top edge of the device upward and wait 1-2 minutes for the isopropyl alcohol to weaken the adhesive.

  17. Continue sliding the opening pick deeper along the top edge of the battery, slicing more of the adhesive underneath.
    • Continue sliding the opening pick deeper along the top edge of the battery, slicing more of the adhesive underneath.

  18. Once there's enough room, insert a plastic card underneath the battery and slowly pry the battery up. You may need to apply more isopropyl alcohol if you have difficulty prying. Be careful not to bend the battery as you pry.
    • Once there's enough room, insert a plastic card underneath the battery and slowly pry the battery up.

    • You may need to apply more isopropyl alcohol if you have difficulty prying.

    • Be careful not to bend the battery as you pry.

    • Remove the battery.

    • Do not reuse the battery after it has been removed, as doing so is a potential safety hazard. Replace it with a new battery.

  19. Use adhesive remover or isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth to clean up any remaining adhesive left behind in the battery well before you install the new battery.
    • Use adhesive remover or isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth to clean up any remaining adhesive left behind in the battery well before you install the new battery.

    • If your new battery does not come with pre-installed adhesive, follow this guide to install pre-cut adhesive on the bottom of the battery.

  20. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the three 3 mm screws securing the heat sink to the motherboard.
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the three 3 mm screws securing the heat sink to the motherboard.

    • Carefully peel the two foam pieces stuck over both the heatsink and the fan away from the fan.

    • The foam only needs to be peeled back enough to clear the fan.

    • The foam is really delicate and tears easily. Use the following technique to peel the foam:

    • Insert the point of a spudger underneath the part of the foam that isn't stuck against anything,

    • Press the top of the foam with your finger to hold it in place.

    • Roll the spudger tip underneath the foam all the way to the other end of the foam to release it.

  21. Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the heatsink up and off the motherboard to remove it. You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the heat sink is slightly bonded to the CPU with thermal paste. Clean off the old thermal paste from the heat sink and CPU using high-concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Apply new thermal paste to the CPU before reassembly.
    • Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the heatsink up and off the motherboard to remove it.

    • You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the heat sink is slightly bonded to the CPU with thermal paste.

    • Clean off the old thermal paste from the heat sink and CPU using high-concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Apply new thermal paste to the CPU before reassembly.

    • Apply thermal paste to all surfaces that had thermal paste applied previously. This includes between the heatpipe and aluminum shield, which the Switch uses as additional heatsinking.

  22. Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the digitizer cable's ZIF connector. Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the digitizer cable's ZIF connector.
    • Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the digitizer cable's ZIF connector.

  23. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the digitizer cable horizontally out of its connector on the game card reader board. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the digitizer cable horizontally out of its connector on the game card reader board.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to slide the digitizer cable horizontally out of its connector on the game card reader board.

  24. Use the point of a spudger to pry the headphone jack and game card reader connector straight up to disconnect it from the motherboard. Use the point of a spudger to pry the headphone jack and game card reader connector straight up to disconnect it from the motherboard.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the headphone jack and game card reader connector straight up to disconnect it from the motherboard.

  25. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the three 3.1 mm screws securing the headphone jack and game card reader board to the device.
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the three 3.1 mm screws securing the headphone jack and game card reader board to the device.

  26. Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the headphone jack bracket. Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the headphone jack bracket.
    • Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the headphone jack bracket.

  27. Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the headphone jack and game card reader board. Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the headphone jack and game card reader board.
    • Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the headphone jack and game card reader board.

  28. Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector. Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector.
    • Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector.

  29. Use a pair of tweezers to pull the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard. Use a pair of tweezers to pull the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to pull the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.

  30. Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the fan cable ZIF connector. Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the fan cable ZIF connector.
    • Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the fan cable ZIF connector.

  31. Use a pair of tweezers to pull the fan cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard. Use a pair of tweezers to pull the fan cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to pull the fan cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.

  32. Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the power and volume button ribbon cable ZIF connector. Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the power and volume button ribbon cable ZIF connector.
    • Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the power and volume button ribbon cable ZIF connector.

  33. Use a pair of tweezers to pull the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard. Use a pair of tweezers to pull the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to pull the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.

  34. Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the smaller LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector. Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the smaller LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector.
    • Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the smaller LCD ribbon cable ZIF connector.

  35. Use a pair of tweezers to pull the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard. Use a pair of tweezers to pull the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to pull the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.

  36. Use the point of a spudger, an opening tool, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the Joy Con sensor rail's data cable ZIF connector. Use the point of a spudger, an opening tool, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the Joy Con sensor rail's data cable ZIF connector.
    • Use the point of a spudger, an opening tool, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the Joy Con sensor rail's data cable ZIF connector.

  37. Use a pair of tweezers to pull the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard. Use a pair of tweezers to pull the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to pull the ribbon cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.

  38. Use the point of a spudger to pry up the black antenna cable straight up out of its socket on the motherboard. Use the point of a spudger to pry up the black antenna cable straight up out of its socket on the motherboard.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry up the black antenna cable straight up out of its socket on the motherboard.

  39. Use the point of a spudger to pry up the white antenna cable straight up out of its socket on the motherboard. Use the point of a spudger to pry up the white antenna cable straight up out of its socket on the motherboard.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry up the white antenna cable straight up out of its socket on the motherboard.

  40. Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to pull the right speaker connector straight out of its socket on the motherboard. Do not pull on the connector by the speaker wires. They're very thin and can easily snap off the connector.
    • Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to pull the right speaker connector straight out of its socket on the motherboard.

    • Do not pull on the connector by the speaker wires. They're very thin and can easily snap off the connector.

  41. Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to pull the left speaker connector straight out of its socket on the motherboard. Do not pull on the connector by the speaker wires. They're very thin and can easily snap off the connector.
    • Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to pull the left speaker connector straight out of its socket on the motherboard.

    • Do not pull on the connector by the speaker wires. They're very thin and can easily snap off the connector.

  42. Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the Joy Con sensor rail data cable ZIF connector. Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the Joy Con sensor rail data cable ZIF connector.
    • Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the Joy Con sensor rail data cable ZIF connector.

  43. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the Joy Con rail data cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the Joy Con rail data cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to slide the Joy Con rail data cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.

  44. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver  to remove the following screws:
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following screws:

    • Four 2.5 mm screws

    • Two 3.1 mm screws

  45. Insert a spudger into a gap between the motherboard and the frame. Carefully lift up the motherboard and remove it from the frame. Carefully lift up the motherboard and remove it from the frame.
    • Insert a spudger into a gap between the motherboard and the frame.

    • Carefully lift up the motherboard and remove it from the frame.

  46. If you're replacing just the left speaker, skip the next two steps. Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to pull the speaker connector straight out of its socket on the motherboard.
    • If you're replacing just the left speaker, skip the next two steps.

    • Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to pull the speaker connector straight out of its socket on the motherboard.

    • Do not pull on the connector by the speaker wires. They're very thin and can easily snap off the connector.

  47. Use the point of a spudger to pry the speaker up. The speaker is adhered with light adhesive inside the speaker well, so a bit of force is required. Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to remove the right speaker.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the speaker up.

    • The speaker is adhered with light adhesive inside the speaker well, so a bit of force is required.

    • Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to remove the right speaker.

  48. Follow the next three steps if you're replacing the left speaker. Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to pull the speaker connector straight out of its socket on the motherboard.
    • Follow the next three steps if you're replacing the left speaker.

    • Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to pull the speaker connector straight out of its socket on the motherboard.

    • Do not pull on the connector by the speaker wires. They're very thin and can easily snap off the connector.

  49. Use the point of a spudger to pry up the speaker to loosen it from the speaker well. The speaker is adhered with light adhesive inside the speaker well, so a bit of force is required.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry up the speaker to loosen it from the speaker well.

    • The speaker is adhered with light adhesive inside the speaker well, so a bit of force is required.

  50. Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to carefully remove the speaker from the speaker well. Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to carefully remove the speaker from the speaker well.
    • Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to carefully remove the speaker from the speaker well.

  51. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the three 4.8 mm screws securing the fan.
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the three 4.8 mm screws securing the fan.

  52. Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to lift the fan straight up and remove it from the device. Compare your new replacement part to the original part. You may need to transfer remaining components (such as the rubber bushings) to the new part before installing.
    • Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to lift the fan straight up and remove it from the device.

    • Compare your new replacement part to the original part. You may need to transfer remaining components (such as the rubber bushings) to the new part before installing.

  53. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the four 3.7 mm screws securing the right Joy Con rail to the frame of the device.
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the four 3.7 mm screws securing the right Joy Con rail to the frame of the device.

    • These screws are torqued down and can be difficult to remove. To prevent them from stripping, apply firm downward force, work slowly and try a different screwdriver if the screws won't come out.

  54. Remove the right Joy Con sensor rail. Take care not to snag the rail's data cable on the device frame as you remove it.
    • Remove the right Joy Con sensor rail.

    • Take care not to snag the rail's data cable on the device frame as you remove it.

  55. Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to lift the battery connector up and out of the way of the Joy Con rail's data cable. Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to lift the battery connector up and out of the way of the Joy Con rail's data cable.
    • Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to lift the battery connector up and out of the way of the Joy Con rail's data cable.

  56. Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to lift the battery connector up and out of the way of the Joy Con rail's data cable. Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to lift the battery connector up and out of the way of the Joy Con rail's data cable. Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to lift the battery connector up and out of the way of the Joy Con rail's data cable.
    • Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to lift the battery connector up and out of the way of the Joy Con rail's data cable.

  57. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the four 3.7 mm screws securing the left Joy Con rail to the frame of the device.
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the four 3.7 mm screws securing the left Joy Con rail to the frame of the device.

    • These screws are torqued down and can be difficult to remove. To prevent them from stripping, apply firm downward force, work slowly and try a different screwdriver if the screws won't come out.

  58. Remove the left Joy Con sensor rail from the device. Remove the left Joy Con sensor rail from the device.
    • Remove the left Joy Con sensor rail from the device.

  59. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the taped down power/volume ribbon cable.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the taped down power/volume ribbon cable.

  60. Remove the power/volume board with a pair of blunt nose tweezers. Remove the power/volume board with a pair of blunt nose tweezers.
    • Remove the power/volume board with a pair of blunt nose tweezers.

  61. Pull the rubber conductive pad out with a pair of blunt nose tweezers.
    • Pull the rubber conductive pad out with a pair of blunt nose tweezers.

  62. Pull the power and volume buttons out with a pair of blunt nose tweezers. Pull the power and volume buttons out with a pair of blunt nose tweezers.
    • Pull the power and volume buttons out with a pair of blunt nose tweezers.

  63. Deroute the black coax cable from the midframe. Deroute the black coax cable from the midframe. Deroute the black coax cable from the midframe.
    • Deroute the black coax cable from the midframe.

  64. Continue following the wire, derouting  it as you go. Continue following the wire, derouting  it as you go.
    • Continue following the wire, derouting it as you go.

  65. Pry the metal barrel surrounding the coax up from the midframe. Pry the metal barrel surrounding the coax up from the midframe.
    • Pry the metal barrel surrounding the coax up from the midframe.

  66. Grasp the WiFi antenna board with a pair of tweezers and lift straight up to remove it. Grasp the WiFi antenna board with a pair of tweezers and lift straight up to remove it.
    • Grasp the WiFi antenna board with a pair of tweezers and lift straight up to remove it.

  67. Heat an iOpener and apply it to the bottom edge of the screen for around two minutes to to help soften the adhesive.
    • Heat an iOpener and apply it to the bottom edge of the screen for around two minutes to to help soften the adhesive.

    • A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the device—the display and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage.

  68. Apply a suction cup to the bottom-left corner of the screen. Pull up on the suction up with strong, steady force to create a gap. Depending on the age of your device, this may be difficult. If you have trouble, apply more heat and try again.
    • Apply a suction cup to the bottom-left corner of the screen.

    • Pull up on the suction up with strong, steady force to create a gap.

    • Depending on the age of your device, this may be difficult. If you have trouble, apply more heat and try again.

    • Insert the point of an opening pick into the gap, making sure to only insert the pick about 5 mm.

  69. Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge of the screen to slice the adhesive. Leave the pick inserted to prevent the adhesive from re-adhering to the frame. Leave the pick inserted to prevent the adhesive from re-adhering to the frame.
    • Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge of the screen to slice the adhesive.

    • Leave the pick inserted to prevent the adhesive from re-adhering to the frame.

  70. Insert a second opening pick into the gap to the left of the first pick. Slide the opening pick back towards the left side of the device. Leave the opening pick inserted.
    • Insert a second opening pick into the gap to the left of the first pick.

    • Slide the opening pick back towards the left side of the device.

    • Leave the opening pick inserted.

  71. Heat the left edge of the screen for around two minutes to help soften the adhesive.
    • Heat the left edge of the screen for around two minutes to help soften the adhesive.

  72. Continue sliding the opening pick around the bottom-left corner to slice the adhesive. Continue sliding the opening pick around the bottom-left corner to slice the adhesive. Continue sliding the opening pick around the bottom-left corner to slice the adhesive.
    • Continue sliding the opening pick around the bottom-left corner to slice the adhesive.

  73. Continue sliding the opening pick along the left edge of the screen to slice to adhesive. Continue sliding the opening pick along the left edge of the screen to slice to adhesive.
    • Continue sliding the opening pick along the left edge of the screen to slice to adhesive.

  74. Heat the top edge of the screen for around two minutes to help soften the adhesive.
    • Heat the top edge of the screen for around two minutes to help soften the adhesive.

  75. Continue sliding the opening pick around the top-left corner of the screen to slice the adhesive. Continue sliding the opening pick around the top-left corner of the screen to slice the adhesive. Continue sliding the opening pick around the top-left corner of the screen to slice the adhesive.
    • Continue sliding the opening pick around the top-left corner of the screen to slice the adhesive.

  76. Continue sliding the opening pick along the top edge of the screen to slice the adhesive. Continue sliding the opening pick along the top edge of the screen to slice the adhesive. Continue sliding the opening pick along the top edge of the screen to slice the adhesive.
    • Continue sliding the opening pick along the top edge of the screen to slice the adhesive.

  77. Heat the right edge of the screen for around two minutes to help soften the adhesive. Place the flat end of a spudger into the gap along the left edge of the screen. Carefully and slowly lift the left edge of the screen, opening it like a book.
    • Heat the right edge of the screen for around two minutes to help soften the adhesive.

    • Place the flat end of a spudger into the gap along the left edge of the screen.

    • Carefully and slowly lift the left edge of the screen, opening it like a book.

  78. Lift the right edge of the screen straight off the device, threading the ribbon cables through the frame as you do so. Take care not to snag any of the ribbon cables on the frame as you remove the screen. You can reuse the screen adhesive if it is still sticky. Otherwise, replace the adhesive with double-sided tape such as Tesa tape.
    • Lift the right edge of the screen straight off the device, threading the ribbon cables through the frame as you do so.

    • Take care not to snag any of the ribbon cables on the frame as you remove the screen.

    • You can reuse the screen adhesive if it is still sticky. Otherwise, replace the adhesive with double-sided tape such as Tesa tape.

  79. Remove the four screws securing the front frame to the midframe.
    • Remove the four screws securing the front frame to the midframe.

  80. Lift the front edge of the frame then slide the frame up toward the top of the display to remove it. Lift the front edge of the frame then slide the frame up toward the top of the display to remove it. Lift the front edge of the frame then slide the frame up toward the top of the display to remove it.
    • Lift the front edge of the frame then slide the frame up toward the top of the display to remove it.

  81. Verify the coax wire is free of any obstructions or routing inside the device.
    • Verify the coax wire is free of any obstructions or routing inside the device.

  82. The antenna is held in with light adhesive, so simply grasp it and pull up to release it. The antenna is held in with light adhesive, so simply grasp it and pull up to release it.
    • The antenna is held in with light adhesive, so simply grasp it and pull up to release it.

  83. Pull the coax cable through the slot in the frame.
    • Pull the coax cable through the slot in the frame.

    • Replacement antennas may not come with the black plastic support piece, so you might have to transfer it from the old antenna to the new one.

  84. The midframe has now been stripped bare. Many new midframes do not come with the black insulation layer between the midframe and the screen, so you may have to find a substitute or try to salvage the layer from your old midframe.
    • The midframe has now been stripped bare.

    • Many new midframes do not come with the black insulation layer between the midframe and the screen, so you may have to find a substitute or try to salvage the layer from your old midframe.

Abschluss

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Jerry Wheeler

Mitglied seit: 21.03.2022

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Great guide will be attempting this soon so this guide has given me some hope! I can’t seem to find the black insulation layer on the last step would that be a generic insulating foam or something else?

Cameron Ness - Antwort

Thanks, it should work, as I actually followed my own instructions the entire way through the replacement, although I had to add three other guides for completeness; the two antenna guides and the front frame guide.

I’m afraid I sidestepped the issue of the black insulation; I opted to buy a used frame that clearly showed the insulation still in place once I realized all of the new ones came without it. If you do come up with a solution for a replacement, we’d love to hear about it; I personally can’t think of a suitable substitute offhand.

Oh, one note on this guide; it’s put together using existing guides for the individual part removals, and as such it duplicates the instructions for removing some of the connectors such as the speakers and the display. So don’t worry if the instructions tell you to unplug a connector you’ve already unplugged; that’s just an artifact of combining separate guides. For example, both the motherboard and LCD replacement instructions tell you to unplug the LCD and digitizer cables

Jerry Wheeler -

Thanks for the reply,

I was planning on doing this repair as a switch I have purchased has cracked plastic at the bottom of the casing where the fan vents are but I’m weighing up the pros and cons of stripping it down purely for that reason.

I can’t find a housing with that thermal pad anywhere which puts me off buying the ones that claim to be OEM if they don’t come with it by default.

I found some closed cell Polyethylene insulating foam sheets that are about 2mm thick so I’m assuming that’s similar on eBay so might give that a try and see how it compares to the original.

Cameron Ness -

I poked around but had no luck finding anywhere the pad is sold separately; however I did come across a midframe being sold on Amazon with the pad (OEM pulls, removed from Switches). I’ve included a link in the parts list. The really good news is, it’s only about $11 US! Dang, wish I’d seen this when I was doing my replacement!

Jerry Wheeler -

Hey Cameron, just re-reading your latest comment and I have to wonder if you really need to do a full midframe replacement. If its just cracked plastic, that should mean just doing a front frame replacement instead of a full midframe. Still a lot to do; the main differences are that you don't have to remove the battery and speakers which would be good as the battery is pretty hard to pull.

Jerry Wheeler -

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