Einleitung
Diese Anleitung zeigt, wie der Reflow der Lötstellen von Chips in der Xbox 360 durchgeführt wird. Damit kann der sogenannte "Red Ring of Death" Fehler (RROD) repariert werden. Um das Lötzinn für den Reflow zu schmelzen benötigst du ein Heißluftgebläse.
Durch den Reflow der Hauptplatine der XBox 360 werden die Lötperlen unter der CPU, GPU, RAM und anderen Chips verflüssigt und verbinden sich wieder neu mit den Kontakten auf der Hauptplatine. Nach der Reparatur kannst du dich gegen ein wiederholtes Auftreten des Fehlers mit einem Red Ring of Death Fix Kit schützen, wir empfehlen das sehr.
Was du brauchst
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Greife die Festplatteneinheit mit einer Hand und drücke mit der anderen Hand den kleinen Knopf, während du die Festplatteneinheit nach oben hebst.
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Nimm die Festplatteneinheit von der Konsole.
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In diesem Schritt verwendetes Werkzeug:Xbox 360 Opening Tool$4.99
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Führe das flache Ende eines Spudgers oder die Kante eines Xbox 360 opening tools in den kleinen Schlitz an der Seite des Front Pannels in der Unterseite.
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Hebel die vordere Kante des Lüfters weg von der Frontplatte.
You can avoid this step by pulling the front cover off. Just make sure you don't break the springs for the USB bay area.
Hello, thank you ifix for this guide, I followed this guide, I got stuck at some point but I resolved it. Also I want to share this resource: Step by Step guide to fix Xbox 360 errors it helped me go through all the things associated with Xbox 360 and the troubleshooting of errors. Hope this can also help you all.
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Um die Klammern zu lösen, arbeite dich von der Vorder- zur Hinterseite der Lüftereinheit entlang.
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Während du die Bodenabdeckung leicht anhebst, nutze die Spitze eines Spudgers um die Klammern zu lösen.
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Führe die flache Seite eines Spudgers zwischen der Frontabdeckung und der Außenhülle, nahe des An/Aus-Schalters, ein.
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Führe den Spudger entlang der Kante der Frontabdeckung um die Klammern zu lösen, die sie an der Konsole halten.
The faceplate just pulls off, using a tool is completely unneccessary. https://beta.support.xbox.com/help/xbox-...
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Die obere Lüftereinheit wird mit Klammern in der Konsole gehalten. Die ersten zwei sind hier rot markiert.
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Führe das flache Ende eines Spudgers in die kleine, bereits erwähnte, Öffnung ein um die Klammern zu lösen.
I found this step difficult. I wasn't able to see where the clips were from the pictures. If you look at step 14 you can see what the clips look like after the vent is taken off. Once you realize where they are it is a lot easier.
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Um die Klammern zu lösen, beginne in der Mitte der oberen Lüftereinheit.
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Während du leicht die Kante der Lüftereinheit anhebst, nutze die Spitze eines Spudgers um die Klammern in der oberen Mitte der Seitenabdeckung hineinzudrücken um sie zu lösen.
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Nutze die Spitze eines Spudgers um die Klammern an der hinteren Seite der oberen Lüftereinheit zu lösen.
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Nutze die Spitze deines Spudgers um die Klammer an der hinteren Seite der oberen Lüftereinheit zu lösen.
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Entferne die obere Lüftereinheit.
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Stelle die Konsole senkrecht mit der Oberkante nach unten hin.
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Ziehe vorsichtig den Garantie-Sticker von der Konsole ab.
LOL “Romove the warenty seal”
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Nutze das flache Ende eines Spudgers um die folgenden Verriegelungen zu lösen:
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Über dem Front-USB Port
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Unter dem Front-USB Port
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Über den Speicherkarten-Schlitzen.
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Führe das flache Ende eines Spudgers in der Verriegelung über der Eject-Taste ein und hebel nach oben um die letzte Verriegelung zu lösen.
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Hebe vorsichtig die vordere Kante der Seitenabdeckung an, um sicherzustellen, dass die Verriegelungen an der Vorderseite komplett gelöst sind.
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Drücke das Xbox 360 Opening Tool in die Schlitze für die Klammern, die Ober- und Unterseite verbinden in der Nähe der I/O Ports.
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Während du das Opening Tool in die Xbox drückst, drücke die obere und untere Hülle auseinander um die Klammern zu lösen.
I didn't have an XBox tool, so I followed instructions in this video for this step (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qaxIB6cX...) to pry it open with your fingers and a screwdriver.
The small (metal) women's hair clip is best for un-latching the tabs. The screw drivers just make the holes bigger.
You can also use the pointed end of a plastic spudger to push each clip free while you separate the case with your free hand.
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Während du die obere und untere Hülle auseinander drückst, nutze die Spitze eines Spudgers oder den Stift eines Xbox 360 Opening Tools um die lange Klammer (rot markiert) in das Gehäuse zu drücken.
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Die Klammer löst sich und hinterlässt die Klammern in der Nähe des Stromanschlusses als einzige Klammern zurück, die die Gehäuseteile verbinden.
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Drück das Xbox 360 Opening Tool unten in die zwei verbleibenden Schlitze um die Klammern in der Nähe der Stromverbindung zu trennen.
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Drücke die beiden Gehäuseteile auseinander um sie komplett voneinander zu trennen.
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Greife den hinteren Teil der Rückseite und hebe ihn an um ihn von der Konsole zu trennen.
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Verwende die Spitze eines Spudgers um die Klemme, die den Auswurfknopf festhält, aus dem Metallgehäuse zu lösen.
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Führe die Flache Seite des Spudgers zwischen die Auswurftaste und das optische Laufwerk ein.
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Hebel die Auswurftaste aus ihren letzten Verankerungen und nimm sie heraus.
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Drehe die 6 silbernen 64 mm T10 Torx Schrauben heraus, die die obere Abdeckung am Metallgehäuse halten.
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Zieh die silbrige Klebefolie ab, die das optische Laufwerk am Gehäuse festhält.
Looking at mine, I doubt it. It looks like standard foil tape
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Hebe das optische Laufwerk leicht nach oben um an das SATA Kabel und das Stromkabel des Laufwerks heranzukommen. Die Kabel befinden sich auf der Rückseite des optischen Laufwerks.
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Greife das Stromkabel kurz hinter seinem Stecker und zieh es gerade aus dem optischen Laufwerk heraus.
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Greife das SATA-Kabel am Stecker und ziehe es gerade aus dem optischen Laufwerk heraus.
I found the power cable to be very tough to get out, at least it is the first time doing this.
I found it much easier to remove the SATA cable after lifting the assembly mostly out of the case.
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Hebe das optische Laufwerk aus dem Metallgehäuse heraus.
Be careful not to lose or break the two teeny metal clips securing the optical drive assembly snugly to the metal casing on either side of the drive's front face. I used a spudger to press in the topmost tines on these clips because they were catching on the drive and bending up. The clips should stay on the metal housing, not come off with the drive.
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Führe das flache Ende eines Spudgers in die kleine rechteckige Öffnung an der Oberseite des Lüfterkanals.
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Löse vorsichtig die Klammer des Lüfterkanals und nimm den Lüfterkanal aus der Xbox.
Fair warning for people using this guide for maintenance, the inside will likely have a coating of fine dust or dirt
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Hebe die Rahmenleiste über den Doppelventilatoren an und ziehe die Doppelventilatoren in Richtung des Motherboards.
Cleaning out the fan now, will help problems in the future.
Do Step 35 first (remove the fan connector from the motherboard), otherwise as you pull the fans forward out of the metal bracket you risk stressing the connector's attachment to the motherboard (because the fans will press against the connector as you pull them forward).
There are small black feet on the bottom of the fan assembly, You can push up from the bottom of the case if needed.
these are powerful fans. im having over heating issues with a brushless motor. anything less than a 120mm pc fan does nothing. but i must keep the top off to fit the 120 and adequate heat removal. so i wanna use tbis turbo fan and mount i ti the lid.
how do i remove the blades and get to the bearings and guts??
theres no rear access hole hiding under the specs sticker.
please help! thank
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Ziehe das Kabel der Doppelventilatoren vom Mainboard ab.
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Entferne die Doppelventilatoren aus dem Gehäuse.
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Verwende die flache Seite eines Spudgers um die Klammern, an der oberen und linken Seite des RF Modulschilds zu lösen.
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Entferne das RF Modulschild von der Konsole.
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Drehe die drei 5,6mm T8 Torx-Schrauben heraus, die das RF Modul am Metallgehäuse befestigen.
for whatever reason the T8 screws holding the RF receiver on my unit were torqued on pretty hard. almost impossible to get off. IS taking the RF off really necessary?
They all seem like that the further down we go. Unless you're here to just repaste the board, you have to take it off
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Greife das RF Modul und zieh es vorsichtig hoch um es aus seinem Sockel im Motherboard zu nehmen.
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Nimm das RF Modul aus der Konsole.
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Entferne folgende Schrauben, die das Motherboard am Metallgehäuse befestigen:
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Neun goldene 11mm T10 Torx-Schrauben.
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Acht schwarze 5,6mm T8 Torx-Schrauben.
kinda hard for a KID to do this huh also I am a 9 year old you get it
well, it almost as if this is labeled as Difficult in the beginning!
The T8’s were T9’s on mine. This guide could be wrong, or my toolkit was mislabeled. If you can’t get the T8’s out, try a T9 before stripping the screws!
They were T8’s for me
Ryan Lee -
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Hebe das Motherboard an der vorderen Kante an.
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Entferne das Motherboard aus dem Metallgehäuse.
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Führe die Spitze eines kleinen Flachkopfschraubenziehers an den Enden der X-förmigen Klammer zwischen der Klemme und der Befestigung ein.
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Hebel die X-förmingen Klammern aus den Befestigungen, bis die Kante mit der Rille über die übrigen Befestigungen gehoben ist.
The instructions on how to remove the x clamps are insufficient. I had a great deal of trouble with them. The small flathead screwdriver included with the kit is too small and weak to do the job. I ended up Googling other how-to's. I used a larger screwdriver and FINALLY popped them off, however as careful as I tried to be in the process I accidentally damaged a few traces around the screw hole. Repair was a failure, still have 3 red lights. Waste of time and money.
Why the heck would you suggest using a screwdriver to release the x-clamps from the motherboard, knowing that the screwdriver could slip and damage some of the traces on the motherboard!? Didn't see the comment about placing a piece of cardboard on the motherboard to prevent scratching until I had already screwed up my Xbox. How hard would it be for iFixit to develop a tool to easily remove the x-clamps like they did to open the Xbox? I wanted to do this to prevent any possibility of overheating, and went from a working Xbox to a dead one because of this bad step. Definitely took my view of iFixit down a notch, will be much more hesitant to recommend their tools and guides after this. Would like a refund but I know that's not going to happen. Super ticked!
Same thing just happened to me, the tiny screw driver they say to use has next to 0 leverage to get it off. Now my repair kit is useless cause I physically removed some of the bits because my screwdriver slipped.
Forren -
I found that inserting a sprudger between the X clamp and retaining post and turning while lifting worked well without damaging the board
The tool provided in the kit is completely incapable of performing this step (prying the X off the post).
I originally had a lot of issues prying them up; I was really worried about accidentally scratching the board. The instructions don’t seem fully adequate. Instead, first pry all four corners as high up as possible, pointing the screwdriver towards the center of the X clamp. If you pry them practically horizontally, then it makes the whole process a lot easier. Then work individually, pushing each corner slowly outwards and upwards, putting the screwdriver in from above (not the side as step 42 shows, too dangerous) into the small space between the screw and the X. Be careful at this point, just in case. Also, DON’T use the small flat head screwdriver provided; it’s too tiny to get proper leverage. I used 1/8 in. See this tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pHzEV3c_...
Maybe the tiny flathead in the kit I got is newer than the old ones…
DO NOT stick the screwdriver vertical as shown in step 41!
Instead use it like step 42. Insert it only that way, between each front of the X clip arm and the post, and turn it so the screwdriver turn pushes the bottom of the X clip off the post.
No risk of damaging the board this way.
Instructions were very unclear, but comments helped. Both used cardboard and the tutorial found here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pHzEV3c_... as mentioned by Sophia Vera. Took my time, and mostly used a longer screwdriver like in step 42. Once the first 3 clips come off, the fourth one essentially falls off, so be ready to catch your heat block when you pop the third one.
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Führe den Flachkopfschraubenzieher parallel zum Motherboard zwischen die X-förmige Klammer und die Befestigungen.
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Dreh den Schraubenzieher um die X-förmigen Klammern von der Befestigung zu trennen.
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Is the x-clamp supposed to be reinstalled? It's not pictured in any part of the instructions after this point, so I did not reinstall it, and putting the xbox back together now is different than taking it apart.
The X-clamps are not reused. Since you install machine screws in place of the X-clamp mounting posts, you do not reinstall the eight screws highlighted in orange on step 41.
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Setze die Spitze eines kleinen Flachschraubendrehers zwischen der X-förmigen Halterung und den Befestigungsstützen auf dem Kühlkörper ein.
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Hebele die X-förmige Halterung weg von den Befestigungsstützen bis sie über die kleine Rille, welche in die Befestigungsstütze eingelassen ist, hinweggehoben ist.
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Entferne den Kühlkörper der CPU von der Hauptplatine. Beim Einbau der CPU musst du eine neue Schicht von Wärmeleitpaste auftragen.
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Löse die SATA Kabel und das Versorgungskabel des optischen Laufwerks von der Hauptplatine.
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Wenn du die Hauptplatine austauschst, musst du die vier Wärmeleitpads von der Unterseite der Hauptplatine auf die neue Hauptplatine übertragen.
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Die Hauptplatine bleibt übrig.
I'm keeping the same motherboard so do I have to replace or need the thermal pads? For this guide
Replace them if they're crusty, or you can replace them
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Lege die Hauptplatine mit der Prozessorseite nach unten auf den flachen Metallboden des leeren Metallrahmens (mit seiner offenen Seite nach unten), so wie im zweiten Bild gezeigt. Lasse den großen USB-Anschluss über den Metallrahmen herausragen, so dass die Platine flach aufliegt.
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Erwärme die komplette Rückseite der Hauptlatine eine Minute lang mit der niedrigen Stufe des Heißluftgebläses. Bewege den Heißluftstrom fortwährend über der Oberfläche hin und her, so dass sich die Platine gleichmäßig erhitzt.
Rather than using a heat gun, I have had good results using a domestic oven. Pre-heat the oven to 230C then place the motherboard in the oven component side up. I use a piece of cardboard to support the board in the oven. Heat for a couple of minutes only, you should be able to smell the flux at this time. Turn the oven off and leave for a couple of minutes, then gently crack the oven door open slightly and leave like this until cool. This sort of simulates the ramp up/hold/ramp down of the normal soldering process. I have reflowed a couple of Xbox 360 motherboards like this with good results.
Wouldn't this heat up the board uniformly? Including the capacitors? I'm thinking that is a recipe for exploding electrical components.
Joshua -
do not do this!!! only an idiot would put the whole board in the oven. i did it and the capacitors popped and micro capacitors fell off the bottom. yes i'm an idiot
Anyone performing these heating steps should really shroud the areas that don't need then heat. If you are not an expert with the heat gun it is easy to damage other parts. I recommend using silicone oven pads to lay over everything but CPU and GPU areas. There is also a danger of over heating RAM chips. The key here is an even increase in temp for a UNIFORM temp of chips. I have done about 500 of these and when I first started they would pop errors again after a few heat-ups and cool downs. I even broke a few heating too fast and too quick. Heres the deal, cover other areas, start with heat gun on low 16 inches away moving in circles move closer. Increase heat over course of 4-5 min.
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Nachdem die Rückseite der Platine eine Minute lang erhitzt wurde, drehe die Hauptplatine herum und lege sie wie gezeigt auf den Metallrahmen auf.
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Stelle das Heißluftgebläse auf hohe Temperatur ein und erwärme die rot markierte Zone gleichmäßig vier Minuten lang.
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Nachdem die rot markierte Zone vier Minuten lang erhitzt worden ist, schalte das Heißluftgebläse aus und lasse die Hauptplatine auf Raumtemperatur abkühlen. Dabei darf die Hauptplatine nicht bewegt oder sonstwie gestört werden.
I have a heat gun with lo (300 C) and hi (600 C) settings. I've fixed 2 PS3 YLOD (excellent IFIXIT guide for that, by the way) and have just tried to fix an XBOX using this guide. Within 2 minutes of starting , using the hi setting and keeping the gun moving , one of the dark areas around the small chips started to bubble. I haven't tested the result, yet, but suspect the worst....
I think the guide should be more informative and precise about the heat requirement.
Next time I'm going to follow the settings (lo) and timings the PS3 guide suggests.
Yeah i would not be using a heat gun on high especially for4 minutes try a good hair dryer on high should be hot enough to reflow but not so hot it will damage componets
A standard hair dryer only gets to about 200°C, which isnt high enough to melt the components on the board.
bvop -
I have heat gun, that is able to set temperature (from 50 to 600 celsius) so what is the best value for LOW and HIGH? I had seen a lot of videos on YT and read a lot of manuals, but never had found out, the correct temperature…
Well I use 420 Celsius to remove and replace electrical components on a MB for both computers and Game consoles. So why not use that temp for high and say 250-300 for low? At 420, holding it in one place over the component, it only takes about less than 1 minute to get the solder to re-flow to work it.
Here's one... i just changed out all the blown capacitors and did the entire reflow process. Plugged in the system partially assembled, just for testing purposes. Worked, no red ring. Turned it off and reassembled the entire system, plugged it in, then it red ringed... no power, no fans, nothing.
Disassembled out of shell, it turned on with no red ring. Put in a game and it worked with no issues. Assembled the top cover with only one screw in to test, it red ringed again....
What does this mean?? Makes no sense to me.
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Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, folge dieser Anleitung ab Schritt 48 in umgekehrter Reihenfolge
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, folge dieser Anleitung ab Schritt 48 in umgekehrter Reihenfolge
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21 Kommentare
Is there a similar guide for XBOX 360s?
Yes, there is - and It worked for me!
Dave -
What temperature ranges should I be aiming for? I have a variable temp head gun and no idea of what temperatures are best for both stages.
The heat gun they are using has a 570 F low-setting. While that doesn't give you an EXACT temperature, it should give you some idea of what they're using.
what happend
Code 0013 I followed guide and it already has the rod fix kit and still two left red lights flash
the two red rings mean it overheated and need to cool down you just had to cool it down not do all of this!
Aurelio -
Is there a tutorial for more professional tools?
Exact temperatures and times for the chip surface and the down side of the board (with K-Type thermo couppler under kapton tape) with a IR-Rework-Station, perhaps also for hot air.
With a liquid flux, a dual digital thermometer etc..
That is not "High-End" stuff, this is possible for normal people.
I think, a liquid flux is the minimum for better results.
I have this stuff, but not a "recipe".
Hi thanks for wrecking trade for repairers, however this type of fix is temporary & should be done properly by someone trained with the right equipment.
I just did this to keep my xbox going until gta 5 came out on PC no point in getting it fixed right lol.
Lmao Brian, “Big Repair” shill, the fact there is ANY controversy at all about having DIY repairs exist is astonishing!
Silly tutorial..
Why do these chips have heat sinks??? To remove heat to prolong chip life.
And you want to apply heat from a hot air gun heating chips past their rated thermal limit to the point where solder re-flows (approx. 400 degrees C) Most chips have an upward thermal limit of around 120 degrees C.
Take it to a professional do not do this yourself. Remember that the chips have internal solder connections as well so whilst your heating up the chips to reflow the solder you also run the risk of detaching the internal connections thus forever ruining the chip.
Dude, lead free solder doesn't melt until 220 *C... How are you supposed to reflow at 120... Heat from soldering does nothing to chip life, as long as you are within the manufacturers soldering heat limits. The Chip wears out from internal electrically generated heat, which is completely different. How do you think they solder GPUs to graphics cards that have a thermal limit of about 100*C.... Also 400 *C wtf... Have you ever soldered in your life? 60-40 solder melts at 188 *C
FYI I've done this 5 times to my xbox since 2008. it still works everytime after. I don't even use it anymore so theres no point in getting it reflowed with lead solder.
I did this Tutorial W/O doing the Heat Gun part and mine works great.
You should not do this. This is NOT how you reflow a board properly. You are just warping your board and causing damage. Sad that a reputable company like iFixit has this garbage on their site.
About how long does this last?
WARNING: Just replacing the drive will not make it work correctly. Microsoft has married the drives to the motherboard. Hence, in order to get full operation out of the drive you'll have to perform more steps not listed here. Search in the FAQ on this specific topic for more details. Otherwise, before buying a new drive, try cleaning the inside of the old one and/or replace the belt involved in opening and closing the drive door.
- Good Luck
Eric - Antwort
Thanks..helped!
joseph zulu - Antwort
bress the button and lift with the same hand! i thought mine was stuck because of this pic!!!
Maths with Luigi - Antwort