With these laptops, the trick to remove a stuck battery due to a broken latch that I use (not always, but a lot of the time) is if you have the release switch, remove that from the laptop and then use a good screwdriver in the hole to unlock it, but do not use too much pressure and back off if it feels like it’s going to break the spring. Once you resolve it, reinstall the switch cover and you’re set. It will never be 100% again, but it’s a possible solution to release the battery.
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The reason I consider this method somewhat risky (I reserve this option for machines where if I break it, I break it - which back a few years ago was the crap Compaq laptops I consider “DOA”, which basically means 1-2 year field life, 3 if you’re able to pull a real miracle. Now it’s almost all of these older HP laptops as they’re all going to be 10+ years old) is because of the spring - it can easily break if you force it, but it doesn’t leave chassis marks - it’s a potentially shorted motherboard which will NEVER work again. On the laptops I do this on, they either have low end CPUs like my CQ56-219WM ([link|https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/41498/intel-celeron-processor-900-1m-cache-2-20-ghz-800-mhz-fsb.html|Celeron 900], single core w/o hyper threading 1C/1T, no extras outside of Intel 64 and Execute Disable, not even VT-x) or other issues (G60-230US). ***If you care about keeping it alive, I would look at the far less risky method @oldturkey03 posted. Killing the motherboard is the end of the road due to the cost to replace vs. these laptops as a unit.***
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The reason I consider this method somewhat risky (I reserve this option for machines where if I break it, I break it - which back a few years ago was the crap Compaq laptops I consider “DOA”, which basically means 1-2 year field life, 3 if you’re able to pull a real miracle. Now it’s almost all of these older HP laptops as they’re all going to be 10+ years old) is because of the spring - it can easily break if you force it, but it doesn’t leave chassis marks - it’s a potentially shorted motherboard which will NEVER work again. On the laptops I do this on, they either have low end CPUs like my CQ56-219WM ([link|https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/41498/intel-celeron-processor-900-1m-cache-2-20-ghz-800-mhz-fsb.html|Celeron 900], single core w/o hyper threading 1C/1T, no extras outside of Intel 64 and Execute Disable, not even VT-x) or other issues (G60-230US). ***If you care about keeping it alive, I would look at the far less risky method @oldturkey03 posted. Killing the motherboard is the end of the road due to the cost to replace vs. these laptops as a unit.***
***GENERALLY SPEAKING, I reserve this method for either:***
* ***Machines given to me (or I paid so little it’s pocket change)***
-
* ***Dead ones (if I break the spring I literally do not care especially if I already know the motherboard is dead or may be dying)***
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* ***Dead ones (if I break the spring I literally do not care especially if I already know the motherboard is dead or suspect)***
+
* ***Units I need to check the motherboard on closely, and paid accordingly for***
With these laptops, the trick to remove a stuck battery due to a broken latch that I use (not always, but a lot of the time) is if you have the release switch, remove that from the laptop and then use a good screwdriver in the hole to unlock it, but do not use too much pressure and back off if it feels like it’s going to break the spring. Once you resolve it, reinstall the switch cover and you’re set. It will never be 100% again, but it’s a possible solution to release the battery.
-
The reason I consider this method somewhat risky (and reserve it for machines if I break it, I break it) is because of the spring - it can easily break if you force it, but it doesn’t leave as much external evidence. The risk is not with the chassis - it’s with potentially shorting the motherboard out and killing the laptop if it comes loose. On the laptops I did this on, they either had low end CPUs like my CQ56-219WM ([link|https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/41498/intel-celeron-processor-900-1m-cache-2-20-ghz-800-mhz-fsb.html|Celeron 900], single core w/o hyper threading 1C/1T, no extras outside of Intel 64 and Execute Disable, not even VT-x) or other issues (G60-230US) so if you care about it I would look at other far less risky methods first. ***GENERALLY SPEAKING, I reserve this method for either:***
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The reason I consider this method somewhat risky (I reserve this option for machines where if I break it, I break it - which back a few years ago was the crap Compaq laptops I consider “DOA”, which basically means 1-2 year field life, 3 if you’re able to pull a real miracle. Now it’s almost all of these older HP laptops as they’re all going to be 10+ years old) is because of the spring - it can easily break if you force it, but it doesn’t leave chassis marks - it’s a potentially shorted motherboard which will NEVER work again. On the laptops I do this on, they either have low end CPUs like my CQ56-219WM ([link|https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/41498/intel-celeron-processor-900-1m-cache-2-20-ghz-800-mhz-fsb.html|Celeron 900], single core w/o hyper threading 1C/1T, no extras outside of Intel 64 and Execute Disable, not even VT-x) or other issues (G60-230US). ***If you care about keeping it alive, I would look at the far less risky method @oldturkey03 posted. Killing the motherboard is the end of the road due to the cost to replace vs. these laptops as a unit.***
+
+
***GENERALLY SPEAKING, I reserve this method for either:***
* ***Machines given to me (or I paid so little it’s pocket change)***
* ***Dead ones (if I break the spring I literally do not care especially if I already know the motherboard is dead or may be dying)***
With these laptops, the trick to remove a stuck battery due to a broken latch that I use (not always, but a lot of the time) is if you have the release switch, remove that from the laptop and then use a good screwdriver in the hole to unlock it, but do not use too much pressure and back off if it feels like it’s going to break the spring. Once you resolve it, reinstall the switch cover and you’re set. It will never be 100% again, but it’s a possible solution to release the battery.
-
The reason I consider this method somewhat risky (and reserve it for machines if I break it, I break it) is because of the spring - it can easily break if you force it, but it doesn’t leave as much external evidence. The risk is not with the chassis - it’s with potentially shorting the motherboard out and killing the laptop if it comes loose. On the laptops I did this on, they either had low end CPUs like my CQ56-219WM ([https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/41498/intel-celeron-processor-900-1m-cache-2-20-ghz-800-mhz-fsb.html|Celeron 900], 1C/1T (Single core), nothing outside of Intel 64/Execute Disable, not even VT-x) or other issues (G60-230US) so if you care about it I would look at other far less risky methods first. ***GENERALLY SPEAKING, I reserve this method for either:***
+
The reason I consider this method somewhat risky (and reserve it for machines if I break it, I break it) is because of the spring - it can easily break if you force it, but it doesn’t leave as much external evidence. The risk is not with the chassis - it’s with potentially shorting the motherboard out and killing the laptop if it comes loose. On the laptops I did this on, they either had low end CPUs like my CQ56-219WM ([link|https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/41498/intel-celeron-processor-900-1m-cache-2-20-ghz-800-mhz-fsb.html|Celeron 900], single core w/o hyper threading 1C/1T, no extras outside of Intel 64 and Execute Disable, not even VT-x) or other issues (G60-230US) so if you care about it I would look at other far less risky methods first. ***GENERALLY SPEAKING, I reserve this method for either:***
* ***Machines given to me (or I paid so little it’s pocket change)***
* ***Dead ones (if I break the spring I literally do not care especially if I already know the motherboard is dead or may be dying)***
With these laptops, the trick to remove a stuck battery due to a broken latch that I use (not always, but a lot of the time) is if you have the release switch, remove that from the laptop and then use a good screwdriver in the hole to unlock it, but do not use too much pressure and back off if it feels like it’s going to break the spring. Once you resolve it, reinstall the switch cover and you’re set. It will never be 100% again, but it’s a possible solution to release the battery.
-
The reason I consider this method somewhat risky is just because of the spring - it can easily break if you force it, but it doesn’t leave as much external evidence. The risk is not with the chassis - it’s with potentially shorting the motherboard out and killing the laptop. On the laptops I did this on, they either had low end CPUs like my CQ56-219WM (Celeron 900, 1C/1T, no VT-x) or other issues (G60-230US) so if you care about it I would look at other far less risky methods first. ***GENERALLY SPEAKING, I reserve this method for either:***
+
The reason I consider this method somewhat risky (and reserve it for machines if I break it, I break it) is because of the spring - it can easily break if you force it, but it doesn’t leave as much external evidence. The risk is not with the chassis - it’s with potentially shorting the motherboard out and killing the laptop if it comes loose. On the laptops I did this on, they either had low end CPUs like my CQ56-219WM ([https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/41498/intel-celeron-processor-900-1m-cache-2-20-ghz-800-mhz-fsb.html|Celeron 900], 1C/1T (Single core), nothing outside of Intel 64/Execute Disable, not even VT-x) or other issues (G60-230US) so if you care about it I would look at other far less risky methods first. ***GENERALLY SPEAKING, I reserve this method for either:***
* ***Machines given to me (or I paid so little it’s pocket change)***
* ***Dead ones (if I break the spring I literally do not care especially if I already know the motherboard is dead or may be dying)***
With these laptops, the trick to remove a stuck battery due to a broken latch that I use (not always, but a lot of the time) is if you have the release switch, remove that from the laptop and then use a good screwdriver in the hole to unlock it, but do not use too much pressure and back off if it feels like it’s going to break the spring. Once you resolve it, reinstall the switch cover and you’re set. It will never be 100% again, but it’s a possible solution to release the battery.
-
The reason I consider this method somewhat risky is just because of the spring - it can easily break if you force it, but it doesn’t leave as much external evidence. The risk is not with the chassis - it’s with potentially shorting the motherboard out and killing the laptop. On the laptops I did this on, they either had low end CPUs like my CQ56-219WM (Celeron 900, 1C/1T, no VT-x) or other issues (G60-230US) so if you care about it I would look at other far less risky methods first.
+
The reason I consider this method somewhat risky is just because of the spring - it can easily break if you force it, but it doesn’t leave as much external evidence. The risk is not with the chassis - it’s with potentially shorting the motherboard out and killing the laptop. On the laptops I did this on, they either had low end CPUs like my CQ56-219WM (Celeron 900, 1C/1T, no VT-x) or other issues (G60-230US) so if you care about it I would look at other far less risky methods first. ***GENERALLY SPEAKING, I reserve this method for either:***
+
+
* ***Machines given to me (or I paid so little it’s pocket change)***
+
* ***Dead ones (if I break the spring I literally do not care especially if I already know the motherboard is dead or may be dying)***
With these laptops, the trick to remove a stuck battery due to a broken latch that I use (not always, but a lot of the time) is if you have the release switch, remove that from the laptop and then use a good screwdriver in the hole to unlock it, but do not use too much pressure and back off if it feels like it’s going to break the spring. Once you resolve it, reinstall the switch cover and you’re set. It will never be 100% again, but it’s a possible solution to release the battery.
-
The reason I consider this method somewhat risky is just because of the spring - it can easily break if you force it, but it doesn’t leave as much external evidence. The risk is not with the chassis - it’s with potentially shorting the motherboard out and killing the laptop.
+
The reason I consider this method somewhat risky is just because of the spring - it can easily break if you force it, but it doesn’t leave as much external evidence. The risk is not with the chassis - it’s with potentially shorting the motherboard out and killing the laptop. On the laptops I did this on, they either had low end CPUs like my CQ56-219WM (Celeron 900, 1C/1T, no VT-x) or other issues (G60-230US) so if you care about it I would look at other far less risky methods first.
With these laptops, the trick to remove a stuck battery due to a broken latch that I use (not always, but a lot of the time) is if you have the release switch, remove that from the laptop and then use a good screwdriver in the hole to unlock it, but do not use too much pressure and back off if it feels like it’s going to break the spring. Once you resolve it, reinstall the switch cover and you’re set. It will never be 100% again, but it’s a possible solution to release the battery.
The reason I consider this method somewhat risky is just because of the spring - it can easily break if you force it, but it doesn’t leave as much external evidence. The risk is not with the chassis - it’s with potentially shorting the motherboard out and killing the laptop.