It looks to be a USB cord. So it should be fairly simple. Find a USB cable that you don't use. You will need to cut off one end (the side that doesn't connect to a computer). Then just match up the wire colours and solder them together.

When you remove the digitiser from an ipad (at least the ones I have done), the adhesive stays in place. And you can reuse it perfectly fine. So I would say they don't include it because it's most likely not required.

When you say wobble, do you mean from side to side, or is it more of a vibration? If it wobbles: Take a look at the wheel and see if it can move bend from side to side when you use your hands. It should be nice and stiff with no play. If it bends a bit and you have the tools, tighten it up. If it is tight but still wobbles, take the wheel out and check the clearance between the bearing and the wheel, it should be a nice tight fit. If it isn't you might need a replacement wheel. If it vibrates: It's most likely a flat spot on the wheel. The alternative is the wheel is out of round, if the wheel is new it might have been made like that (poor QC).

With issues like this, you should really add a bit more info if you can. Is it a genuine or aftermarket battery. Are you using a battery grip. Was the camera acting up before it stopped turning on. Was the charge status of the battery indicating it was bad in the battery info menu? Was the camera dropped. Was the camera used in an unsuitable environment. The more info we get the easier it will be to help you out. A couple of non obvious reasons why it might not turn on... There is a switch on the bottom of the camera where the battery door is. The camera will not turn on if this is not depressed. The door depresses this when it is shut, so if the door isn't shut quite right, then it wont turn on. Same goes for the CF card door. If it is not closed and locked into place correctly, the camera will not turn on.

An auto transmission receives 100% of the motor's drive through a part called the torque converter. This devices basically pushes transmission fluid from a spinning part on the engine side, to the other part that connects to the auto box. If you have no transmission fluid, you have no way to transfer that torque. If you are low, well it makes the job a lot harder. Auto transmissions also have lots of internal piping, when selecting park or drive or reverse, all sorts of valves open and close inside to divert the fluid to different parts of the box. When you stick it in park, it might free up some fluid in the box, that allows more to flow into the torque converter just to get you going. You say that when you accelerate the rpm's jump up. This very much sounds like low transmission fluid. You need to seriously check the fluid level, and make sure there are no leaks (as it sounds like you have a leak for it to have come out). Check the level, if it's low, add in more. The car might have to be running when...

Does your laptop have a keyboard shortcut that disables the touchpad? I think off the top of my head Toshiba uses the Function + F9 key to turn on and off the touchpad. Some even had a button right next to the touchpad that performs the same function.

You need to either raise the bridge on the high e side. Or slightly adjust the truss rod so that the neck lifts up slightly when laying on it's back. Another option is to raise the b string up slgithly at the bridge using a thin shim.