I didn’t use the polycomm software, so I don’t know why you’d need it.

Check the specifications of the generic battery against the original. If it produced too much voltage, you could be overloading the circuit.

Check that you haven’t bridged any pads while soldering, or left a blob of solder on the board where it shouldn’t be. You may have added some solder that bridges the off switch.

You could use a multimeter to check the connections? Otherwise maybe it needs charging.

Glad that worked for you! It seems there are variations in how easy / difficult this repair is based on the specific model.

Agreed that if you are not willing / able to replace the battery, buying a used Soundlink 2 Mini is not a good idea. Bose will (maybe) replace the battery for $75. They are not the only ones.

This is why we are seeing Right To Repair bills with bipartisan support in the US house and senate - farmers want to be able to fix their own tractors, many of us want to fix our own electronics. My first car (a 1962 VW bug), my father and I pulled the engine apart completely and reassembled it (it worked!). We want that kind of experience for our kids, let’s not see electronics and other devices as magical black boxes that must be sent back to be repaired or become landfill. There’s good reasons why Apple backed down and are offering (expensive) parts and tools for people to fix their own recent-model iPhones. The EU are pushing hard for right to repair, and the manufacturers will be forced to respond. So, let your local representatives tell them you care about the issue.

That’s enough soap-box for me :).

That’s really frustrating. I’ve seen this before, where manufacturers swap screws and other components without changing the model number. I have a 64 bit driver set from iFixit, but I don’t recall which bit I used for this. The screws in my one are different lengths to the ones in the original instructions.

I agree it’s frustrating. Most people don’t have access to the tools needed - without the tools, the job is impossible. Because it’s through-hole soldering, you don’t need an expensive soldering iron. You do need spludgers, screwdrivers, patience, and a solder sucker / remover in addition to the soldering iron. Maybe you have a friend or neighbor who could help? Is there a maker space near you where you could borrow tools?

The instructions are at https://riverparkinc.com/wp-content/uplo... . I bought this battery from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08FHX... (not an affiliate link). The speaker is working fine and charging, a few months later.

If all you are doing is replacing the battery, you don’t need the following steps. Desolder the old battery from the board, solder the new one in, and reverse the steps to reassemble. Save and re-use the foam tape to prevent buzzing.

This step is not necessary if all you are doing is replacing the battery (if you want to do a complete tear-down, go ahead!).