(continued) Then pry the battery loose as described in steps 50 and on, except that you’ll have to reach in from the other side since the logic board is still in the way—this should not be a problem. I did it with a kitchen spatula and liberal use of the iOpener from beneath to keep the adhesive warm. Once the battery is all loose except for the power terminal tab, rock the logic board back (away from the battery) a teeny amount, just enough to get the spudger or spatula in under the tab and break it free. Then pull it out and put the new battery in such that the screw hole in the tab lines up, and screw the logic board back down.

Now, all you have to put back together is the LCD, plastic bezel and touchscreen.

If you’re replacing a battery, you can skip most of steps 34-49. You need to loosen the logic board to take the battery out, but you don’t need to remove it, nor do you need to disconnect all those other items. This is partly about saving work but mostly about avoiding many opportunities to break things. Before you start the following, study steps 46, 47, and 50.

You must take out the 7 screws shown in step 47. One of them is covered by the piece of tape described in Step 46, so pull that off first. The screw marked in orange also holds down the power terminal from the battery. You can see the tab in the photo for Step 50, at the top of the battery, and that hole in the tab is where the screw goes through.

(to be continued)

I agree about the spatula—it’s strong and rigid. The long narrow ones that short-order cooks use are thinner and have a sharp edge. Also, you can use the iOpener, the heating pad you used to open the touchscreen. Put the iPad on top of the iOpener, so that it lies under whichever strip of glue you’re currently prying apart. It’s much more effective than it was with the glass screen, because the metal case conducts heat right to the glue.