No, but I modified the tip of the lower latch itself by adding some 2 or 3 layers of duct tape. Not the most elegant solution, but it works for quite a while before the tape gets worn and needs to be renewed. A properly trimmed and mounted strip of tin can would be more permanent . . . either applied to the tip of the latch or, preferably, glued to the worn portion of the latch board. Also bought a couple dozen fuses from China. Cheap. If a little too short, just carefully bend in the fuse mounting brackets. The control board slides onto slots (as you know) and doesn’t need to be screwed in. Same with the upper plastic piece over the door. Same with the shield in front of the fuse. As a result - AFTER UNPLUGGING - I can replace a blown fuse in about two minutes without tools. Long term solution? Avoid GE microwaves in the future. Cheap, shoddy and rickety . . . plus replacement parts are exorbitant. Classic modern planned obsolescence. Oh, and don’t use Goof Off to clean tape residue off the control panel....

Here’s an answer I’ve not seen elsewhere: Over time the door latch wears down such that the timing of the interlock switches gets confused. There are three switches that must activate in the correct order. When the latch is worn, the timing of the two lower switches is disrupted. After trying everything else (and I mean EVERYTHING), I noticed the worn latch and started experimenting, opening and closing the door very slowly and listening for the switches to activate. They must be out of sync, somehow. How can I correct it? Believe it or not, I simply wrapped some duct tape around the tip of the lower black plastic latch. This caused one of the lower switches to activate a fraction of a second sooner . . . before the second switch . . . and the problem was solved.