Did you mean back of the engine bay? Coolant would not be leaking from the rear of the vehicle as there are no coolant lines back there. A coolant leak in the rear of the engine bay can indicate heater hoses, or the block could could be porous, or the headgasket could be leaking. Do a coolant pressure test (apply the recommended pressure on the cap and let it sit) and see how much psi you drop over 10 minutes. You shouldn't lose more than 1 psi. If you find youre losing pressure faster than that, apply pressure again to cap spec and look around with a flashlight to see if you can find coolant dripping from somewhere

Are you sure its a motor fault? It sounds more likely to be a faulty switch or broken wire between switch and motor. Do you hear any click or motor activation/ binding to indicate the motor is getting the command from the switch to move? If not, then the motor is most likely not your issue

Without knowing the year of this car and the full scope of the symptoms, first recommend checking coolant level. If that checks out, investigate thermostat

This sounds like it could be related to a vacuum leak. Take brake cleaner and spray it around the intake/ airbox vacuum lines. If the car stalls out or hesitates anywhere in particular while spraying the brake cleaner, thats where your vacuum leak is. Is this a 3.3l or a 2.4?

Can you provide more details? If this is with the keyfob, it is possible you just need a battery for the fob. If its intermittent with the driver door buttons, its possible the master switch is on its way out.

Does the handle feel the same with car locked as it does unlocked? The fits have issues with the liftgate latches; over time the springs give out. Check to see if lift gate opens using manual release (fold down rear seats, and there is an access panel on the rear trim to access manual release. Usually a lever you the push to the right)

You said you replaced the ckps, correct? The ckps is located near the bell housing on the opposite side of the engine from the timing belt, as indicated by the alldata diagram. If vehicle is still running rough after repair, check your timing and make sure timing didnt jump. I had a kia sedona recently that was throwing codes for a ckps, but none to indicate that the cam crank correlation was actually out. Come to find out timing was several teeth out. If timing is good, I would check throttle body itself; kia has a lot of throttle body issues

Do you have codes for a check engine light? If bank 2 isnt firing at all, you could have a bad upstream 02 sensor. You can do all battery reset for 5 minutes and see if it fires for just a few seconds since the battery reset will clear you store fuel trims data. If that doesnt change anything, id do a compression test across that whole bank and compare to the side thats running normally. If low or no compression on that bank, id suspect a timing issue (I see that you replaced camshaft, but if damage was done prior to replacement, that cant be undone by resetting timing)

Auto headlights usually have a timer. After you shut the car off and exited, you can use the key fob to lock the car twice and that should override the timer; this will usually also beep or activate the horn briefly. On some vehicles, you can go into your settings and adjust the timer

Are you looking to do front, rear, or all? The process is about the same for most of them, except for brembo style brakes. Make sure emergency brake is on securely. Jack up the car on one corner on the pinch weld and put a jack stand beneath it. Remove wheel. Remove slide pin bolts and slide caliper off. Remove brake pads from the caliper bracket. Remove caliper bracket. Then remove machine screws if present and you may need to strike the rotor with a hammer to knock it free of the hub. Swap on new rotors, clean up caliper bracket of rust build up/ lubricate slide pins and apply new shims; reinstall. Slide brake pads in (pad with wear indicator goes on the back, and when you remove pads pay attention to orientation of the wear indicator, if its top or bottom). Make sure pads move freely. Compress caliper piston (using the old pad and channel locks should work find, if it is a spin style caliper, characterized by a parking brake cable and notches in the piston that line up with notches on the rear pad, you...