Einleitung
Folge dieser Anleitung, um ein defektes Trackpad zu ersetzen.
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Entferne die folgenden zehn Schrauben:
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Drei 14,4 mm Kreuzschlitz #00 Schrauben
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Drei 3,5 mm Kreuzschlitz #00 Schrauben
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Vier 3,5 mm Kreuzschlitz #00 Ansatzschrauben
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Löse mit den Fingern in der Nähe vom Ventilator die Gehäuse-Unterseite vom Hauptteil des Gehäuses.
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Entferne die Gehäuse-Unterseite.
Bonjour, alors cela va dépendre du modèle de MacBook Pro Retina concerné. Par exemple, si vous avez un 13 pouces, allez consulter cette page MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Repair et sélectionnez-y votre modèle. Les Retina 15 pouces se trouvent ici MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Repair. Sinon cet outil https://fr.ifixit.com/info/ID-your-Mac (pour l’instant seulement disponible en anglais) vous aide à identifier quel modèle vous avez et vous redirige vers la page de votre appareil, où vous trouverez le tutoriel correspondant à votre Retina. Bonne réparation !
Merhaba, trackpad değişimi ve ayarlaması için tornavidaya ihtiyacım var, bu konuda yardımcı olabilir misiniz acaba? Ne tür bir tornavidaya ihtiyacım var ve nereden bulabilirim acaba?
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Löse mit der Kante eines Spudgers den Akkuanschluss nach oben, weg vom Sockel auf dem Logic Board.
yes - as with disassembly of any electronic component you have to remove any power source. You don't want to accidentally turn the Mac on
khull -
Sooo the track pad is under the battery...you kind of have to remove it to get to the track pad.
This step is not really required. Apple does not recommend it.
My Battery does not get recognized after i disconnected it, screw this site!
Did you properly ground yourself to the case before putting the spudger to the connector/logic board? Did you use a spudger or something else that is non conductive...or did you use a flat blade metal screw driver instead and compound your error by not grounding yourself before touching the logic board? All kinds of variables here but the bottom line is iFixit provided you a guide to fix your computer. Lots of others have followed this guide without trouble. Your battery issues are not their fault. They did say this guide was moderate difficulty...maybe it's just a little beyond your skill level. We should all know our limits!
Don't know what the deal is with the battery, but this IS a necessary step to keep from frying the logic Board if you accidentally touch something and short it out. I did this step every time during my troubleshooting and The battery was ALWAYS recognized by the system the next time I turned the MBP on. So be safe and don't fry your logic board in the process...
Prying the battery connector off does not take much force. I did exactly what the guide suggested (walked it off back and forth) with the spudger without any problems. Just be very gentle, much like with anything inside laptops, they are very fragile and need to be worked with carefully. A+ instructions, battery replacement was a success.
Installed/upgraded 4gb RAM to the system maximum 16gb and installed a 500 gb SSD today....DID NOT disconnect the battery cable....no issues at all when I powered back up. Then did a clean install of OSX Yosemite....next I used a time machine backup to put all my stuff back on the new HD. From start to finish it took about 4 hours. Macbook boots up right at 16 seconds now.
Easiest to use two spudgers, one on each short end, I found.
Its a lot easier and safer (corner wise) to pry it using the flat side of the black spudger directly in front of the connector (don't go/use the corners) very easily you will be able to pry it further by inserting the spudger into a better and thicker plastic section of the connector
DON'T remove the Battery Cable, you risk the battery NOT being recognised when you start the Mac up again, or breaking it!! More to the point, APPLE DOES NOT RECOMMEND THIS, so don't do it! I Installed 2x 8GB ( 16Gb total) of Crucial Mac RAM at 1333Mhz for my Late 2011 MacBook Pro, and it works beautifully, fully recognised and working well. I followed these instructions, but as Apple didnt recommend disconnecting the battery, I skipped this step, and as well as taking less time, nothing was damaged or broken, and everything works perfectly!!! Just make sure that you DISCHARGE ALL STATIC ELECTRICITY FROM YOUR HANDS, by touching a metal surface in the Mac. Apple recommends the edge of the Optical Disk Drive ( Big silver thing ) before touching any parts. Also, Take care removing the RAM out of its packet, DO NOT touch the Gold connectors, and hold the RAM by the edges. Finally, be PATIENT, GENTLE and it should all go perfectly. I managed it first time, with no technical ability, so follow my advice. Good luck!
Switch off your Mac and continue without disconnecting the battery. Don't know how it will switch on by itself.
This comment made me think that disconnecting the battery was no point at all, because really - how would the computer be able to switch on by it self. So... I had my mac flipped around and was fiddling with the last part of the guide when I all of a sudden hear the start up sound! Don't know how and why it did. I turned it around with it guts open and guts hanging out. Screen was on. I forced it to shut down by keeping the power button down. Turned it back and first thing removed the battery cord.
Luckily the computer started up just like normal. But hearing that sound was just too scary.
BTW I had been cautious to de static myself multiple times.
wassberg -
Definitely do this step. It's an easy disconnect anyway and also easy to reconnect later.
I removed the battery cable for the repair. When I plugged in the MagSafe adapter after the repair, the Mac turned on automatically without pressing the power button and I was a bit worried, but after a restart everything worked fine again. I did have to reset date and time in Preferences. The battery was recognized OK.
Okey, I skipped this battery disconnection part. Did not do anything like this before in my life, changing the cable was super easy!
The official Apple guide to replacing the RAM says nothing about disconnecting the battery but it does recommend touching metal inside to discharge static. https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201165
I always do this when working on MacBooks (over ten years) and it never caused an issue. Don’t worry about this step as removal of the battery connector is simple. This particular connector is pretty much goof-proof as it won’t break. I’m fairly aggressive and just pop it off whenever I’m working on the Macbook Pro.
I have a late 2011 MacBook Pro 13in and did not disconnect the power from the battery. I upgraded from 4gb to 16gb and worked perfectly. Just make sure to power it down and be gentle. It was super easy and quick, and I feel a significant boost in performance. Cant wait to install my 1TB SSD Samsung 860 next!
Be patient on disconnecting this one. It worked for me step by step, little by little.
u can use 16GB DDR3 @ 1600mhz. intel says 16 @ 1333, and apple 8.
apple will solder even the folders to the background for to sell you the “open” or “move to the trash” command. if the battery is not removable, its not a casuality…. u can be sure
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Biege das Akkukabel vorsichtig weg vom Sockel des Logic Boards, damit es sich nicht aus Versehen beim Arbeiten wieder verbindet.
What are the changes of it broke when i bend it?, after i disconect it does not work anymore
The guide worked perfectly, as it has in the past (our family has three Mid-2012 Macbook Pros that have been separately upgraded with RAM and SSD).
The PH00 screwdriver fit perfectly.
One note on getting the screws to seat easily and thread perfectly...always turn them gently a couple turns to the left (CCW or Anti-Clockwise) until you hear a small click. That's where the threads will grab. Works with any screw, but when threads are fine, this will help ensure that the screw is at the correct angle and will grab and seat perfectly.
Great guides. Thanks!
Got RAM in but only one slot is working and now I can't remove! The RAM won't pop up like before and tabs don't seem to do anything. Please advise.
I put some tape between the connector and socket while working on the drive.
That's a good tip
Anrothan -
One other note: The screw heads fit flush with the curvature of the case -- which means that they aren't exactly horizontal. In other words, they aren't perpendicular to the table that the computer is resting on. Don't try to force them straight in vertically, because you'll risk cross-threading them. (nearly ruined one screw hole myself!)
does the battery connection need to be removed? I only ask as other videos etc have not shown this step.
Très bonnes explications. Concernant le débranchement de la batterie, faute de “smudger”, on peut le faire tout doucement avec le bout des ongles (s’ils ne sont pas coupés trop à ras, LOL), et surtout ne pas tenter de le faire d’un coup: il faut y aller tiers de mm par tiers de mm. Le retrait des anciennes mémoires n’est pas facile non plus, car on a très peu de place pour manœuvrer, là encore il faut y aller petit à petit, avec les plus grandes précautions! La barrette située le plus profond doit être soulevée assez fortement dans sa partie libre pour pouvoir être extraite de son étroite cuvette et ce n’est pas simple. Le remontage est nettement plus simple que le démontage. Il faut surtout faire très attention à ne pas confondre les petites vis à épaulement avec celles qui n’en ont pas. Je conseille, avant de remettre le couvercle de fond du Mac, de faire un essai de redémarrage pendant une minute ou deux pour bien voir si tout est OK.
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Entferne die zwei folgenden Schrauben:
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Eine 5,6 mm Tri-point Schraube
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Eine 13 mm Tri-point Schraube
I assume that REPLACING a new battery is the same steps but in reverse? Nothing special we need to look out for?
Also, please add some comments about watching out for STATIC ELECTRICITY. Other videos and websites make it seem frighteningly dangerous and recommend other tools to prevent static electricity discharge. If you could address this issue, I would greatly appreciate it.
These screws do absolutely NOT have the TRI-WING® recess. I find, the LHSTIX 3ULR MicroStix size 3ULR-0 driver fits perfectly.
My battery (original to my late 2011 MBP) straight up does not have screws.
After stumbling around a bit to correctly ID the type etc…Finally found the replacement battery, and guide to be perfect.
Now let's just hope that it fires up and works well. Keep you posted! :-)
What kind of srew driver do I use for those screws please ?
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Ziehe vorsichtig den Akku-Warnhinweis zwischen dem Akku und dem optischen Laufwerk von der Gehäuse-Oberseite.
Probably to help you remove it? Not sure, but I used it along with the clear tab to pull the battery out. Worked pretty good.
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Entferne den Akku durch Ziehen am Plastiketikett aus der Gehäuse-Oberseite.
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Lade ihn auf 100% und lasse ihn mindestens zwei weitere Stunden am Ladegerät. Ziehe den Stecker und benutze dein MacBook normal, um den Akku zu entladen. Wenn die Ladeanzeige am Minimum ist, dann speichere ab und lasse den Laptop an, bis er von selbst ausgeht. Warte wenigstens 5 Stunden und lade dann ohne Unterbrechung auf 100% auf.
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Wenn dir nach der Installation deines neuen Akkus etwas Ungewöhnliches auffällt oder Probleme auftreten, kann es sein, dass du den SMC deines MacBooks zurücksetzen musst.
Hey there !
i replaced my old battery with the one I purchased from ifixit following the guidance. Niw I have the problem, that my macbookpro 13” late 2011 doesn’t boot anymore and the led of my plug just blinks orange rapidly. What happened. Can anybody think of smth, or have had similar experiences?
My replacement battery came with a clear protective film that should be removed before installation. Be sure not to overlook the film on the bottom of the battery as it covers only a portion of that side and might be easy to overlook.
Do not over-tighten the bolts holding the battery in place. One of the tabs on the original battery was broken, presumably due to over-tightening.
Is it possible to use the trackpad from MacBook Unibody Model A1278 in this macbook pro?
After a replacement battery installation in this MacBook Pro 13” (A1278) is there anything else that needs to be done? (other than charge it and start using it?) Like resetting the SMC controller? ?
Following these instructions the replacement of the battery was easy, worked smoothly and fine. But be careful: every word written the instruction is important and has to be respected in detail. After that, when plugging the magsafe, the computer booted automatically and now runs without any problem.
Excellent! Thanks so much!
I just replaced my battery and as soon as I plugged it in it started making a repetitive glitches version of the start up sound. What happened? I am scared to remove anything cause the fan is going.
Hi. After I install a new battery my MacBook wont turn on without AC adapter. I tried SMC, PVRAM, let it charge for whole day and nothing fixed my problem. LED battery indicator on left side is not working anymore and magsafe still shows just green color even it’s connected to MacBook. I tried to remove battery and put it back and no response. My macbook doesnt recognize the new battery and also my old one just stopped working too. Is there anything that can fix this? Thank You, Dominik.
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Hebe vorsichtig mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers den Anschluss des Trackpads vom Sockel auf dem Logic Board.
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Halte das Trackpad an der Kante, die dem Logic Board am nächsten ist, mit einer Hand fest, und entferne die vier rot markierten 1,2 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben.
I ordered some tools from iFixit for replacement of the trackpad but the Phillips #00 Screwdriver named above is still too big for the (tiny) screws of the trackpad. Shouldn't that be a Philips #000?
A word of caution if you are replacing your trackpad due to a bulging battery. This guide assumes that the original mounting tabs are not damaged and it does not look like the iFixit trackpad replacement kit comes with new tabs. My MBP had a bulging battery, which pushed up on the bottom of my trackpad, deforming one of these tabs. Now that I have removed the battery, the trackpad still works, but it is not flush with the case and the physical clicks are not as responsive as I would like. Does iFixit sell just the replacement tabs?
Same here luckily the trackpad still works but the taps have deformed. Anyone find a place to pick up just those tabs? Edit: found them MacBook Pro Unibody (Mid 2009-Mid 2012) Trackpad Mounting Screws
iAndrewC -
Be careful with this step. The very tiny screws are very hard to remove with a #00 screwdriver. I tried with mine and I mashed the srews heads, it was then very very hard to remove it. Better to use a #000 screwdriver. If the heads are mashed like me, I suggest you use a 0.1 flat screwdriver, it worked well in my case.
I couldn't even begin to use the #000 as the edges were not deep or narrow enough for the condition of the screws from factory install. The .1 flat screwdriver worked like a charm though and didn't mess up the screws further at all. I was getting nervous that I'd need to get another screwdriver beyond what's in the iFixit toolkit, but this worked as a better solution.
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Wenn notwendig entferne vorsichtig die Ecke das Trackpads neben der Tastatur aus ihrer Vertiefung im Gehäuse-Oberteil, indem du sie von den Klammern des Oberteils wegdrückst.
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Drücke vorsichtig den Anschluss und das Kabel des Trackpads nach unten durch den Schlitz im Gehäuse.
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Es könnte nötig sein, den Anschluss des Trackpads mit einem Spudger an der Ecke des Logic Boards vorbeizuschieben.
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Wenn das Kabel komplett durch den Gehäuseschlitz gezogen wurde, ziehe das Trackpad weg vom Gehäuse-Oberteil und entferne es aus dem Laptop.
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Um das Kabel vom alten Trackpad zu lösen, öffne erst den Verschluss des ZIF Verbinders. Dann erhitze das Kabel mit einem Fön oder einem iOpener, um den Kleber zu lösen und entferne dann vorsichtig das Kabel.
This article seems to be about REPLACING a trackpad. Why does the summary claim that no parts are needed?
If your replacement trackpad comes with the cable separated and loose, the connection to the trackpad needs to have a tab pressed down which keeps the connection snug. It won't work without it. It's a tab on the trackpad part of the connection. Tab might be the wrong word; the connection has to be in all the way, then clamp it closed with the tab... oops! LOL
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Befestige als nächstes das Trackpad mit den vier 1,2 mm Kreuzschlitz-Schrauben am inneren Rand des Touchpad.
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Prüfe die Ausrichtung des Trackpads im Gehäuse-Oberteil an der Seite der Tastatur. Wenn du das Touchpad perfekt im Oberteil ausgerichtet hast befestige die vier Kreuzschlitz-Schrauben wieder komplett.
trackpad still doesn't click. I've tried two separate parts.. but what makes it pop back up after depressing the pad? It just lays there. I've taken it apart four times to adjust the tork screw... nothing. HELP!
two options here :
_adjust the screw which control the deepness of the click
or
_the back panel put pressure on the battery which prevent the movement of the trackpad
My trackpad was driving me up the wall, bouncing all over the place. Ifixit Trackpad comes with extra screws, hinge and adjuster. You won't believe how tiny these screws are! If one falls in the carpet-it's GONE! Bless you Ifixit! To center when re-installing adjust by sliding a thin piece of paper (scotch tape?), under bottom of trackpad, let Trackpad rest on it's own weight and then tighten one top and bottom screw a little bit, and eyeball it, just the tiniest crack of daylight on each side. I strongly suggest the highest quality magnetic screwdriver you can find. The little torx screw disc is an adjuster. If too tight, trackpad won't 'click.' On a Mac, click is not really essential as long as tap and slide are working right. Needs a small amount of clearance. When properly installed you can 'feel' the click if it's right. Probably won't need to mess with it at all. Now my trackpad works like it should, I am a happy camper!
I replaced the trackpad with a new one: the arrow moves but was not possible to click. I putted back the old trackpad and it works with. The solution: the eleventh picture shown a gray Torx type screw to the left of the connector where there is the recess in the back of the mouse. This screw is used to increase or decrease the depth of clicks. in my case it was too screwed and it was as if I held continually pressed the truckpad: therefore, it was enough to loosen it. At this point I ask myself since in the old truckpad I had problems with the physical click, I probably would have been enough to adjust the screw.
Vielen Dank, dies hat mir sehr beholfen :-)
ifitit is once again amazing. My trackpad just stopped working on my four year old machine. Bought a new trackpad from iFitit, followed the guide and now I have a functional laptop again. One thing to note. 1.2mm is small very, very small. The screws for the trackpad *will* get lost if they fall of the table. Make sure that doesn't happen.
I was having trackpad issue on my 2010 machine, did the replacement from ifixit which arrived broken (bummer) but they replaced it no problems. It worked great for just under a year but now I'm having the same issues again of poor finger tacking, jumping, and lack of sensitivity. I've tried cleaning the whole unit, rebooting in safe mode, refreshing code, and anything else the web has provided. I'm starting to wonder if it's something else on my machine or if the trackpads just don't hold up well enough. Overall I'm super frustrated to have a newer pad crap out this early.
I don't have a magnetic head driver so I had a terrible time trying to get the screws in. I found getting the screw on the table Phillips side up, I pushed my finger tip into the head til it stuck and placed the screw into the thread that way. The screw stayed in long enough for me to tighten with the driver ! Oh, what a relief! I only lost one screw; thank god for replacement screws! Order your trackpad with screws! They fall and get lost easy! Now I'm happy! :)
Next time rub the tip of the screwdriver against a magnet about 10-20 times in the SAME direction (A fridge magnet works)
I installed the trackpad, but it was not behaving correctly. Took it apart again and reinstalled, using the 2 new foils that go under the trackpad keeper screws (my old ones were kind of mangled, probably from all the force I had to use on the old trackpad). I also made extra sure the trackpad was precisely lined up this time. Voila! A nice, sensitive new trackpad.
Thanks, iFixit!
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I’m having issues with the trackpad following the movement of my fingers accurately. It clicks and functions but it behaves the same way an old mouse would with dust in it. Jumps erratically and doesn’t always track every input. No where close to the function or accuracy it used to provide. Any tips?
I have exactly the same behaviour with my new trackpad. After the first try I took it out again, use two new of the metal trackpad keeper, put everything together again and controlled everything very precisely. But the cursor is still jumping or not responding by small movements of the finger(s), also a tap for clicking (activated in System Preferences) isn‘t working most of the time: if I tap for click 15 times, it will do a click maybe once. Very frustrating! Is this a malfunction of the new trackpad?
Thank’s Ifixit, my trackpad click was not working consistently, I had to click many times for the click to be registered. The new one fixed the problem. This is the reason I bought it from you, even if the price is a bit stiff, as support for a well done job.
For those who might be interested, I suspect the click contact was deteriorated during my recent voyage in France, where I plugged my Mac on the 220 vac through straight 120/220 adapter. As I was seated, with my bare feet on the ground, I often felt a soft tingle on my fingers as I ran them on the palm rest of the Mac. It is shortly after a little while of that that my trackpad click started to misbehave. This is highly speculative, but I see no other reason for this failure to happen, unless this click contact coincidentally happened to reach the end of its life… my Mac is 5 years old.
Once again thank you for those repair guides.
jrb.
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Arbeite die Schritte in umgekehrter Reihenfolge ab, um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen.
Arbeite die Schritte in umgekehrter Reihenfolge ab, um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen.
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14 Kommentare
It doesn't tell you to remove the big screw opposite the keyboard!
It's obvious I know, bu it's not obvious how much force it needs back in!
Think I broke mine..
I did my repair without removing it.
casse89 -
Not sure which screw you are referring to. Every screw that needed to be removed seemed to be clearly identified to me. Instructions and pictures were clear and I was able to complete this job in about 30 minutes. That included the time I took to replace the feet while I had the lower case removed for the trackpad job
Can you leave it in place?
I have a sensitivity problem with my new just installed Trackpad. Click works fine but the trackpad doesn't detect fingers the way it used to. For example if u use the tip of the finger (not the nail obviously) the arrow doesn't move at all but it works if u use the "fingerprint" part of the finger (flatter part). Any suggestions?
You probably need to slightly loosen the screw in that little triangle shaped groove by the bottom center of the trackpad. That will lessen restriction on the pressure sensor's range of movement so that it can detect slight touches.
Try to research a better trackpad replacement.
Easy to follow, excellent instructions and photos. Apple considers this repair too difficult for the end user. The only thing that is difficult about it is having the right tools. Other than that, just focus. It took me maybe 30 minutes with the trackpad centering being the most time-consuming problem.
After installing the new trackpad, I couldn’t click, as the clickable area of the trackpad wouldn’t move at all.
To fix this, I had to very slightly and very gently pry the two small “pods” (on the long side opposite the connector) upwards (ie) towards the tactile surface.
once mounted again, it works perfectly well.
Stupid question I know but if I’m facing the unit looking towards the rear of the computer, (hinge is farthest away) which way do I turn the set screw to remove it. I know I probably should have left it alone but I ordered the complete kit and the instructions said to remove the old one. Thanks.
done ! thank you
Does void the warranty?
jfondeur - Antwort
No, it does not void the warranty. More specifically: http://eshop.macsales.com/Search/display...
oakdragon12 - Antwort
How much weight can I save by removing the optical drive?
gunes314 - Antwort
You can save a lot of weight if lets say your installing a solid state drive or putting in a second hard drive but if you know that you use the CD/DVD disc drive a lot then you might just want to leave the drive alone.
Marshall WahlstromHelgren -
Also wondering how much weight I'd save by just removing. My drive is broken for ages, but I have not needed it in ages. The HD was already replaced by a cheap SSD (second best thing after upgrading to 8GB), so I'd appreciate losing some weight. I mean, the computer. Although I could lose some too... erm... well, anyway, I guess the lack of the DVD would not interfere with anything, right? Opinions?
Carlos Duarte do Nascimento - Antwort
Apple has meticulously balanced the MacBook's weight from left to right, and removing the optical drive may off-balance the Mac.
Seji the veggie -
What so you think that a removing the optical drive which weighs less than a AA battery will unbalance a MBP making it unusable? LOL!
Unless you use the MBP on a high wire (an even then I have my doubts) you'd never notice the weight difference.
pmhparis -
The issue is not one of weight but an issue with the systems cooling and an opening which objects could enter. For a few grams of weight I don’t think its worth it! A better solution would be to swap out the heaver HD for a much lighter SSD, and getting all of the performance benefits of the faster drive as well!
While you might not think it the optical drive also acts as a stiffener so there is less twist in the case. This is because of the size of the hole for the DVD/CD’s so taking it out weakens the case design.
Dan -
I'm thinking you'd probably be OK losing the DVD drive without a problem. Just make sure the optical drive cable is secured or you might hear it rattling in there from time-to-time.
John Adam Wickliffe - Antwort
Hey guys,
this website is amazing. I read it to guide me on fixing my mac book pro, but on the video, the girl gives a wrong information.. She says that is not possible replace just the keyboard... But I managed to replace only my keyboard. It is boring because I have to remove approximately 70 screws but it is possible. Thanks a lot! You guys helped me save about US$300 thats because in Brazil some technicians would charge me with that amount!
I posted some pictures on your facebook page..
renatumb - Antwort
Tip: Use one of those weekday pill holders to have a cheep way to store screws you remove and each day of the week can be for different sizes or parts. It has been handy to have (much less expensive than the magnetic mat.
Robert Wacker - Antwort
Great tutorial. I found that using a Phillips #0 in lieu of the #00 worked much better.
kschmesk - Antwort
Totally agree!! I used the #00 screwhead for 7 out of the 10, but for the remaining tricky ones I used the #0 screwhead and it helped me out. I was so worried I would strip the tiny screw, but this comment saved me!
Juliana Mak -
I tried the PH #00 for the 10 screws that hold the bottom case and it's too big, instead PH #000 works perfectly. Are you sure this screws are #00?
Alex - Antwort
The likely problem with your wifi is not the card but the antenna leads that go into the plastic clutch
. Ifixit don't have a guide to change this as it it includes the isight camera so the screen has to be disassembled which is fairly hard
I got round it by using the camera cable from the old set and cutting off the new one
brian whittle - Antwort
Hello MacWorld,
Just want to say that this site is a great resource for repairing or upgrading your Mac. I had a bad SATA cable in my MacBook Pro and after ordering a new one from the "IFIXIT" site I received the cable within two days, replaced it and was up and running again in no time. Thanks IFIXIT for you help!
wer 10/5/15
tayseer999 - Antwort
I have found that my MacBook Pro 13 Late 2011 has five shouldered screws and not four. I am not sure exactly where it goes but I have put it in the top left corner of the picture as it is the odd one out.
ForumHermit - Antwort
Hello, where can I buy the screws I need in case I lose one of them?
taylornya - Antwort
iFixit sells a kit: Macbook Pro Unibody Lower Case Screw Set
Darrell Johnson -
on my device the #00 screwdriver was a bit too small. a #0 was the perfect one
Maximilian Klotz - Antwort
I found with mine that the shouldered and un-shouldered screws were reversed (the three un-shouldered screws going where the orange colour indicates). Also, I found that the front four screws went in at an angle.
gilded yak - Antwort
Are you sure the short screws are different? The set sold here just says “Seven 3 mm Phillips #00 screws.”
Jack - Antwort
I have the same question. What is the difference between shouldered and not? So hard to see any difference…
Michael Wilkens -
I’ll second that. I could never find them being different.
otetz -
I have one stripped screw... How opening without drill it?! Any suggestions please?
rodrigosady - Antwort
I also stripped a couple screws. I wasn’t able to open it up without drilling. After drilling the heads and removing the cover it was easy to hacksaw the tip and unscrew with a standard driver.
Michael Wilkens -
I used 3 eggcups to hold the screws ;>) They are very fiddly and easy to drop on floor so keep the MacBook away from the edge of the surface you are using to avoid accidentally dropping a screw off the edge of a table, etc.
Stephen Smith - Antwort
A screw does not come out, how can I get it out? Many thanks in advance for your help
Wilder Torres - Antwort
Since you’ll be removing many screws it’s best to plan ahead. I found it especially helpful to have a small plastic tray with about a dozen separate compartments to hold screws. As I removed screws I kept them in one compartment for each item removed. For example: The lower case removal involves the removal of ten screws. I kept them all in the first tray compartment and set the lid aside. Also, I put a post-it note identifying this compartment as “Lower case” and noted that the top right-most screws were the long ones. I continued with this methodology as a removed the next item, and the next, etc. Disassembly notes included for each compartment. This helped SIGNIFICANTLY as I was able to reassemble the Macbook easily by simply going from one compartment to the next (in reverse order). This guide is rated “Difficult” which it really isn’t when you plan ahead in this way. It saves time in the long run.
airshack - Antwort
when putting the macbook pro back together, the middle screw on the right side (if the computer is upside down and you have the hinge furthest away from you) requires a bracket that was not included with my new upper case. i had to remove it from my old case and transfer it over - if you don’t do this, that screw will have nothing to attach to.
this was one of the many additional parts i needed to transfer from my old case to the new one that aren’t mentioned in this guide…i’m adding comments on each step to try to help others…i wish i had thought to take pictures.
Matt - Antwort
It seems to me the yellow and orange screws are the same
Luca Giancarli - Antwort
If you look closely, the four front screws (with the yellow circles) have a short unthreaded section under the head. The orange keyed screws are threaded all the way up.
Raymond Ives -
The screws used on all Retina models, as well as about everything Apple has made since the iPhone 4, uses “PENTALOBULAR” not Phillips screws. These look like a TORX driver, but it has 5 concave sides. I believe the size you want is a P4 or T4. (1.2mm).
Don Cely - Antwort
Two screw types:
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El Crashitan - Antwort
If you are following this guide to upgrade to a better drive and want to keep your system and data intact I highly recommend first following the guide to Clone an Existing Drive using the recommended free SuperDuper!. That process was a breeze and gives you confidence that the new drive will come up looking exactly the way it did when you started.
Patrick Langvardt - Antwort
My top tip - make sure you buy good quality Phillips screwdrivers and a magnetic holder. Cheap screwdrivers won’t get the screws undone safely. Without a magnetic holder you have no chance of getting the tiny crews in and out safely.
jeremyyoung - Antwort
I did this last weekend, and definitely, a Phillips #000 screwdriver is required (not a Phillips #00!)
Javier Campos Delgado - Antwort
WIll this card be good with MacBookPro 17 inch 2011
Zafar Ali - Antwort
I just followed this guide and it really helped me install a replacement cable and a new Samsung 860 EVO 500gb SSD in my aging MacBook Pro 13 A1278 MID 2012. It’s performing like a new machine now! The guide worked fine, but I’m curious why this HD cable costs €45 on Ifixit’s webshop, and only €13 on Amazon.de (I live in Europe)? The Amazon purchase also included two screwdrivers and a spudger.
Jeff Baker - Antwort