Einleitung

Folge dieser Anleitung, um die Rückabdeckung eines iPhone 6 zu ersetzen.

Vor der Demontage des iPhones entlade die Batterie auf unter 25%. Eine geladene lithium-Ionen Batterie kann Feuer fangen und/oder explodieren, wenn sie beschädigt wird.
  • Vor der Demontage des iPhones entlade die Batterie auf unter 25%. Eine geladene lithium-Ionen Batterie kann Feuer fangen und/oder explodieren, wenn sie beschädigt wird.

  • Schalte dein iPhone ab, bevor du mit der Demontage beginnst.

  • Entferne die beiden 3,6 mm Pentalobe Schrauben neben dem Lighting Connector.

When reconnecting be VERY careful not to over tighten. The connectors on the screen that these 3.6mm Pentalobe screws lock with are notorious for breaking off

Blair Tryba - Antwort

what do i do if ive managed to tighten them too hard and now they wont come off?

kristian686 -

Before opening the phone, I gently warmed it using a buckwheat heating pad. This made removal of the adhesive strips (steps 20 to 24) easy.

Howard Bales - Antwort

Exactly what I did as well, the gently warming made the adhesive removal work like a charm. The heat as well help to lift the screen easily, no need for the prying tools for me to open te phone.

For the adhesive removal just pull it slowly to the bottom of the phone and keep in under tension.

On reassembly, turn on the phone after getting all connectors back in place to verify all is working fine before putting all screws back in their spot.

Maarten Vergauwen -

I put mine back together but mine looks very different than this one. Why is it that when I make a call I cannot hear through the ear piece and have to put it on speaker. Also my screen doesn't go black when my face touches it

Bailey Wilson - Antwort

Hey Bailey, which repair were you attempting? Is it possible you have a 6s, or maybe a 6 Plus? You may have better luck with faster troubleshooting if you post in our Answer Forum!

Sam Lionheart -

See its a long time ago you had this issue. You can try to remove the cable from front camera/sensor/earpiece from the motherboard port and gently push it back on. All the problems you relate to is thru the same cable. If this dont solve your problem, check if the earpiece is correctly placed onto the polarity poles, and that the proximity sensor is lying right down into the corresponding socket. If something is blocking the sensor, yeah then the screen wont turn on/off when you put it onto your ear.

Kenneth Hilstan -

You only need 000 Screwdriver for ALL!

Tom Long - Antwort

If you skip to STEP 36, you’ll see that you’ll need a STANDOFF SCREWDRIVER BIT to be able to get all the way to Step 39 and remove the antenna. Read through the comments, and you’ll see how frustrated people have gotten since my kit didn’t include the Standoff screwdriver, and I had to dig around for and carefully use a flathead, which took a very long time. If you can’t get that Standoff screw off, you’ll end up with a partially disassembled iPhone and unable to progress. Make sure you have this tool before you proceed.

Brian Mojica -

what do i do if all the screws fail to come off and if i don’t have some of the tools like the iSclack

Brandon Kato - Antwort

I see in the preamble that when you replace your logic board, you would lose touch id functionality, so my question is what if you have the homebutton and thus the fingerprint reader for the logic board replacement, would touch id work?

socratesmens - Antwort

The guide for the iPhone6 battery replacement needs to be revised. There are a couple of issues.

1) While the battery cover has two screws, they are different lengths. Since they are very small, it can be hard to see the difference (until one tries to screw the smaller one into the longer hole). The video needs to mention this.

2) The application of the adhesive strip if very different from what is mentioned. Also, there is a “one piece plastic” applique, and it is very unforgiving. The video should show this process in more detail.

I believe the attention to this detail would help folks correctly install their iPhone 6 batteries, and with the recent Apple disclosed battery problem, would continue to show that iFixit is very committed to the end-user.

Gary Long - Antwort

Please reconsider this repair!

Before you remove any screws, please consider taking your part to a local repair pro and asking them to install it. The many cables connecting the screen assembly to the body of the iPhone are unruly and hard to reconnect. I knicked a cable and thus rendered the entire assembly and repair unfixable. I consider myself capable and tech savvy, but it’s too easy to make a tiny mistake and ruin your phone.

Bruce Coriell - Antwort

I felt a bit silly getting stuck at the end of a long repair, unable to screw one of these last screws back in. What worked was gently pinching the phone above and below the screw, to make sure the screen and back were perfectly aligned.

Matt D - Antwort

Apple edits posts on their Communities website that link to this fix page justifying as follows:

“We’ve edited your post because following the procedures at the site you provided may lead to damage to the user’s device.”

What is certain is that following Apple Support’s advice of resetting our phones again and again never works whereas this fix works. Apparently Apple does not want people to know that their hardware fails and can be fixed, because then they would need to explain why they don’t offer neither the fixing service nor the fixing advice by directing us to this website.

Brice - Antwort

Before you get started, I suggest you confirm you are replacing the correct camera. If you are thinking of a camera, the front is the side of the device with the main lens. On an iPhone this is actually known as the rear facing camera. Once the phone is disassembled your orientation can be distorted and it is not that hard to fail to realize your are replacing the wrong camera. Doh!

William Miller - Antwort

Die nächsten drei Schritte zeigen die Benutzung des iSclack, ein gutes Werkzeug um das iPhone 6 sicher zu öffnen, welches wir allen empfehlen, die mehr als eine Reparatur durchführen. Wenn du den iSclack nicht benutzt, überspringe die nächsten 3 Schritte und folge einer anderen Methode
  • Die nächsten drei Schritte zeigen die Benutzung des iSclack, ein gutes Werkzeug um das iPhone 6 sicher zu öffnen, welches wir allen empfehlen, die mehr als eine Reparatur durchführen. Wenn du den iSclack nicht benutzt, überspringe die nächsten 3 Schritte und folge einer anderen Methode

  • Wenn der Abstandshalter aus Plastik noch in der Mitte des iSclack ist, entferne diesen jetzt – er ist nicht benötigt für größere Smartphones wie das iPhone 6.

    • Schließe den Griff des iSclack, um die Saugnapf-Zange zu öffnen.

There was only one suction cup in my kit. Why show the need for two if ifixit provides only one?

Lisa Klitses - Antwort

Do Not Worry. The Islack comes seprate. This guide shows you how to remove the front screen with a normal suction cup.

Owen -

I found that the single suction cup from the kit worked very well. It didn’t take that much force to separate the front panel from the phone. I think any suction cup that you are able to get a firm grip on will probably work as well. There isn’t any adhesive holding the front panel in. It just snaps in and out. If you have a cracked screen and no screen protector, it may be hard to get a good suction seal. If that’s the case, someone else here suggested applying clear tape to the front glass to get a good surface for applying the suction cup. In my case, I already had a screen protector that was still intact so the suction cup sealed easily.

fiftysomething - Antwort

Platziere das untere Ende deines iPhone zwischen den Saugnäpfen. Positioniere den oberen Saugnapf direkt über (aber nicht auf) dem Home Button und drücke ihn gegen das Display.
  • Platziere das untere Ende deines iPhone zwischen den Saugnäpfen.

    • Positioniere den oberen Saugnapf direkt über (aber nicht auf) dem Home Button und drücke ihn gegen das Display.

  • Öffne den Griff um die Zange zu schließen. Platziere die Saugnäpfe mittig und drücke Sie kräftig gegen die Ober- und Unterseite des iPhones.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Halte dein iPhone gut fest und schließe den Griff des iSclack, um die Zange zu öffnen. Die Saugnäpfe heben dabei die Display Einheit von der Rückseite des Gerätes. Das iSclack Öffnungswerkzeug wurde entwickelt, um dein iPhone genau so weit zu öffnen, dass die Teile getrennt werden können, aber keine Kabel beschädigt werden.
  • Halte dein iPhone gut fest und schließe den Griff des iSclack, um die Zange zu öffnen. Die Saugnäpfe heben dabei die Display Einheit von der Rückseite des Gerätes.

  • Das iSclack Öffnungswerkzeug wurde entwickelt, um dein iPhone genau so weit zu öffnen, dass die Teile getrennt werden können, aber keine Kabel beschädigt werden.

  • Löse die Saugnäpfe von deinem iPhone.

  • Überspringe die nächsten drei Schritte und fahre fort mit Schritt 8.

The iSclack opened the iPhone 6 with little effort. I could have given even less opening pressure than I did. Fantastic tool. Worth the investment.

Tim Dougherty - Antwort

It's never mentioned anywhere that with iSclack even if you save the cables, glass easily detach from plastic frame. When you ri-assembly the phone, this will involve a glass not perfectly adherent to the body. In my opinion is better if you help yourself with a spudger to lift frame from rear case when you are using the iSclack.

marco bigoni - Antwort

Holy cow this tool made it so much easier than a spudger and didn't damage anything. Totally worth the investment.

Fratelli '85 - Antwort

Really need to get one of these. so much easier then the basic type.

Richard W - Antwort

Wenn du keinen iSclack zur Verfügung hast, verwende einen Saugnapf, um die Display Einheit anzuheben:
  • Wenn du keinen iSclack zur Verfügung hast, verwende einen Saugnapf, um die Display Einheit anzuheben:

    • Presse den Saugnapf über dem Home Button gegen das Display.

    • Überprüfe, ob der Saugnapf auch wirklich richtig sitzt.

This is nearly impossible on a screen that is shattered

Erik Madsen - Antwort

You can put clear tape over it. it works.

Owen -

Try putting a strip of packing tape on the screen. That will make the surface smooth and help keep the suction.

Joanna - Antwort

John, your lips move but I can't hear what you're saying. ;-)

TimD -

Argh!! Don’t put the suction cup over the home button to pull. While it works, it also breaks the screen at the weak point below the home button. Ask me how I know.

-Tom

tombuy - Antwort

Halte das iPhone mit einer Hand fest und ziehe am Saugnapf, um die Display Einheit vom hinteren Gehäuse zu trennen.
  • Halte das iPhone mit einer Hand fest und ziehe am Saugnapf, um die Display Einheit vom hinteren Gehäuse zu trennen.

    • Nimm dir Zeit und übe konstante, starke Kraft auf den Saugnapf aus. Die Display Einheit sitzt im Vergleich zu anderen Geräten sehr fest.

  • Heble den hinteren Gehäuseteil mit einem Plastik Opening Tool vorsichtig von der Display Einheit weg, während du weiterhin am Saugnapf ziehst.

  • Durch einige Clips ist die Display Einheit am hinteren Gehäuse befestigt. Womöglich musst du die Display Einheit deshalb gleichzeitig mit Plastik Opening Tool und Saugnapf bearbeiten, um sie zu lösen.

Pulling up on the suction cup helped get me started, but what worked for me was pulling up gently while sliding the plastic prybar gently along the seam towards the top of the phone (on both sides), and it came open without having to put excess pressure on the suction.

lauren carroll - Antwort

Same here, just open the gap a little with the suction cup and then use the opening tool on both sides.

Tobias - Antwort

Along with the suction cup I used some Command adhesive strips to hold the bottom of the phone to a workbench as they easily pull/stretch away when you need to remove them!

Dion Sosa - Antwort

Suction cup pictured here is the older version (with ring). I have one from my previous battery replacement on iPhone 5 and used that instead. The new one (gray with blue handle) kept on popping off. Overall, popping out screen was not as hard as it seems with these instructions, but do proceed with caution.

youmingc - Antwort

Dion's idea to use removable adhesive strips was great, even better, use it to attach the iPhone to a clipboard. This will allow for a sort of Lazy Susan function while you work. I also used adhesive strips to attach my iPhone box to the clipboard as well and used that as a back rest (with rubber band) for the screen as pictured in steps below. This allowed me to very comfortably skip steps 13-19 as others have commented.

Adam - Antwort

The new suction cup (plastic handle) is not so suctiony. Prepare for this thing to pop off a couple of times when opening the case.

Chet Seidel - Antwort

Be very careful because it feels that it holds very tight but with the last pull it can fly away.

Kristaps Grinbergs - Antwort

Be very careful when you pull up the display! Do not keep your other hand on the display surface or you can broke it!

Luke Man - Antwort

I did all the suggestions here and it just wasn’t moving until I repositioned the suction cup up over the home button for more leverage. It finally came up enough to slip the plastic opening tool under the edge.

Alan Derrick - Antwort

Ziehe an der Kunststoff-Noppe, um die Vakuumversiegelung am Saugnapf zu lösen. Entferne den Saugnapf von der Display Einheit.
  • Ziehe an der Kunststoff-Noppe, um die Vakuumversiegelung am Saugnapf zu lösen.

  • Entferne den Saugnapf von der Display Einheit.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Öffne das iPhone, indem du das Home Button Ende der Display Einheit vom hinteren Gehäuse wegklappst und dabei die Oberkante des Gerätes als Scharnier verwendest. Einige Clips entlang der Oberkante der Display Einheit bilden ein nicht durchgängiges Scharnier. Während des Wiederzusammenbaus, lege die Clips gerade unter der oberen Kante des hinteren Gehäuses an. Fahre dann mit der Display Einheit nach oben, bis seine obere Kante bündig mit der des hinteren Gehäuseteils ist.
  • Öffne das iPhone, indem du das Home Button Ende der Display Einheit vom hinteren Gehäuse wegklappst und dabei die Oberkante des Gerätes als Scharnier verwendest.

    • Einige Clips entlang der Oberkante der Display Einheit bilden ein nicht durchgängiges Scharnier.

    • Während des Wiederzusammenbaus, lege die Clips gerade unter der oberen Kante des hinteren Gehäuses an. Fahre dann mit der Display Einheit nach oben, bis seine obere Kante bündig mit der des hinteren Gehäuseteils ist.

It's not clear from the instructions but it is shown correctly in the pictures: when the front panel assembly is just open (at a small angle with the rear case) pull the top edge clips out of the rear case to slightly separate the two components, then swing the front panel assembly away from the rear case. I assume not doing so would potentially damage the connecting ribbon and/or the alignment clips. Just a guess...

ethanlust - Antwort

Ein Tipp zum Zusammenbau: Das Display ca. in 45 Grad halten und vorsichtig an die obere Kante des Gehäuses drücken, bis es bündig und glatt anliegt.

Dann das Display langsam und vorsichtig anklappen und die Clips von oben nach unten festdrücken.

SAS - Antwort

This entire process went smooth. Final step of re-assembly , the assembly does not seat into the framing. The white gasket seats on one side not the the volume button side. Alignment looks good. How much pressure does one apply on the reassembly?

Bruce Fournier - Antwort

My problem is the front panel does not want to joint together with the rear panel… it feel like the front is too big but it look perfect but does not clip in place… Help…

Tony Chicoine - Antwort

same problem, in the final step, the screen does not fit entirely. it looks like the size is not 100% correct, but 99%… one side of the case stays open…

Andrea Andreoli - Antwort

Same thing here, with a new screen it doesn’t fit quite right during re-assembly. It sits just a little bit higher and doesn’t look seated.

Adam Carl - Antwort

Some people have noted that the screen doesn’t seat properly on the case. Here’s how I solved it:

The issue is that rectangular brackets on the back of the display aren’t latching with the corresponding clips in the base. I think the brackets are missing the gap between the spring plate and bracket with the latching bumps on it on the base. Here’s my solution:

Position the top of the display slightly below the top of the case so the clips on the back top of the display start to engage with the phone case. Important: don’t push it all the way up!

Now press both sides of the top part of the display until the display seats on the back. Make sure both sides are flush with the case.

Repeat for the middle of the display. The bottom of the display will remain bent up because it will interfere with the bottom edge of the case.

Now push/slide the display up so the top of the display lines up with the top of the case. The bottom should then snap into the base, and the display should be flush with the case all round.

nigel - Antwort

Öffne das Display bis ca. 90 Grad und lehne es gegen etwas, damit es abgestützt ist, während du an dem Mobiltelefon arbeitest. Zur Not hilft eine ungeöffnete Getränkedose. Befestige das Display mit einem Gummiband, während du arbeitest. Das verhindert ein ungewolltes Dehnen der Displaykabel.
  • Öffne das Display bis ca. 90 Grad und lehne es gegen etwas, damit es abgestützt ist, während du an dem Mobiltelefon arbeitest.

    • Zur Not hilft eine ungeöffnete Getränkedose.

  • Befestige das Display mit einem Gummiband, während du arbeitest. Das verhindert ein ungewolltes Dehnen der Displaykabel.

A picture is worth a thousand words! This idea at Step 9 is perfect and you can definitely do the entire rest of the battery replacement WITHOUT having to disconnect the display from the rear case. Just leave it secured exactly as shown in this picture and you're good to go. I just completed the repair and the most difficult part was just lining up the new battery connector! Excellent instructions and generally EASY repair because this step was so helpful!

Ryan - Antwort

I did the same. Made the work go so much smoother!

dcommins - Antwort

I do NOT recommend leaving the display and the rear case connected during this repair. If you run into any resistance removing the battery, or slip in the least removing it, you risk tearing the ribbon cables that attach the two pieces. I did and now I've got to replace the Front Camera and Sensor Cable. Sadness.

Ergolad - Antwort

I'm going to try it this way, because the odds of damaging the connector during removal seem greater than the risk of ripping the cable, however, I plan to cradle the phone in the "L" of simple, sheet metal bookend, and secure it using blue painter's tape. Seems more stable.

bobcloninger - Antwort

If you do this step carefully- (rubber band the front panel, and carefully peel away the battery adhesive) you can SKIP 13 THRU 19!

Larry House - Antwort

Rubber band and a large can of soup held the front in place. Go slow, steady firm pressure. Take the vibrator out though. Makes pulling the adhesive tape out much easier. Great video and written instructions!

Sherman Homan - Antwort

I do NOT recommend leaving the display and the rear case connected during this repair. If you run into any resistance removing the battery, or slip in the least removing it, you WILL tear the ribbon cables that attach the two pieces. I did and now I've got to replace the Front Camera and Sensor Cable. MUCH Sadness.

todd adelman - Antwort

I decided to do the repair on my iPhone 6 without detaching the screen. I ended up screwing two pieces of 3/4” x 3” x 6” wood together at right angles. I used 2 rubber bands to secure the screen to the vertical piece and 1 rubber band to secure the base to the horizontal piece. One of the two adhesive strips broke and I had to really work to get the battery out. The rubber bands held everything together nicely. The wood pieces were slightly wider than the phone which made it easy to hold everything together while I was working the adhesive strip out.

brian - Antwort

Mine worked great install went perfect. Was like a new phone… for a couple months. Phone may be failing for other reasons, but there’s a ghost image in the shape of the battery in the display now. Very strange. The ifixit kit did give life to it for a while though.

smahar - Antwort

Hey Smahar! If you still have your tools, I’d recommend opening your phone up to make sure the battery isn’t swollen. If it’s pressing against the screen, it’s possible that is the case. If it is swollen, I highly recommend you replace it, it can be dangerous to leave it in place.

Sam Lionheart -

Entferne die folgenden Kreuzschlitz Schrauben von der Abdeckung des Akkuanschlusses:
  • Entferne die folgenden Kreuzschlitz Schrauben von der Abdeckung des Akkuanschlusses:

    • Eine 2,2 mm Schraube

    • Eine 3,2 mm Schraube

#000 needed here

David Pobuda - Antwort

ok well what exactly does 2.2 mm and 3.2 mm mean if a #000 is needed? why even mention those numbers?

Cory Berends -

Those are the screw lengths. They’re important to mention so that you don’t put the longer screw in the wrong place. If you start mixing up screws, you can end up with permanent logic board damage.

Jeff Suovanen -

These screws require a Phillips #000 not Phillips #00 bit.

David Powell - Antwort

How do you know that? Just wondering :)

Didier Daniel -

I replace the antenna in the upper left-hand corner an in the bottom middle with the lightning connector because After disassemble it completely i lose my ability to have Cellular. After i replace both antennas i can find i nevertheless have cellular. anybody an idea ?

kupies2011 - Antwort

@davidsapowell @David+Pobuda - I've submitted an update per your comments. Thanks for the guidance!

Nate Schley - Antwort

With the phillips screwdriver included in the repair kit I cannot unscrew any of the interior screws because it is not the right size even though according to these comments all of the screws are #000 and on the product listing it says that the screwdriver I got is #000. Any suggestions?

Wilson Styres - Antwort

Sounds like you need to adjust your technique. The included PH000 driver works fine; I’ve done many many phones with it.

Jeff Suovanen -

Upon reassembly I found the Red 2.2 mm screw won't seat. Is it possible it sheared off? The Orange 3.2 is solid in both holes but 2.2 doesn't securely fit in either.. Should I just leave off the 2.2?

smcgreg - Antwort

My phone was missing this screw also!

Gail Starr -

Duh, had the cover on the wrong way. Switched it around and the screw fit. (:

smcgreg - Antwort

When I insert the 3.2 mm screw... The phone shuts down, very weird because am not seeing what could cause this short...

Juan Monge - Antwort

I’m having the same issue. Thinking about just leaving that screw out. Did you ever get your’s working?

Cavell Blood -

Using the Phillips 000 screwdriver included in the kit, I am able to remove the 3.2 mm screw, but not the 2.2 mm one.

Dan Solovay - Antwort

None of the screwdriver heads in this kit are big enough for these screws!!! I now have an open iphone and i have to go to the store to buy a different screwdriver..I do not recommend this

Elaine Eason - Antwort

I was unable to unscrew the 2.2mm screw with the provided screwdriver. I was able to unscrew the 3.2mm screw but not the 2.2mm

Jameison Martin - Antwort

I'm stuck in the same boat here. The one screw came out no problem but the second isn't catching at all.

Brian Adams - Antwort

Stuck with Jameison and Brian here... 2.2mm won't catch with all three provided screwdrivers.

Matthijs Rog - Antwort

Agreed, the screwheads included in this kit didn’t work for me either. Fortunately my own toolbox has an appropriate screwdriver…. Seeing as how we are paying for this kit so we don’t need to purchase extra tools, iFixit should really include screwheads that actually work!

Priscilla Cheng - Antwort

When putting everything back together, I took care of steps 10-12 (or, more accurately 12-10) after reinserting the SIM (so between steps 20 & 19). It was easier to do before dealing with reconnecting the screen.

dhcohen67 - Antwort

why do i buy a kit from you guys but you don’t provide the necessary tools for unscrewing

i dont have any screwdrivers at home the 2.2mm simply wont come off its ridiculous now i just have an open phone

Michael Amara - Antwort

bv.gjg jhv /jhv

Michael Amara - Antwort

I had to use Phillips #00 for the 3.2mm (orange) and #0 for the 2.2mm (red). The #000 screw driver came in the toolkit is useless on both screws so I had to go out and buy new ones from a hardware store…

Tung-wei Lin - Antwort

My two screws are the same diameter - 1.1mm, taking a Philips PH000 driver. However the one toward the middle is 3.3mm long, the one nearer the side is 2.2mm long.

Alastair Lack - Antwort

So my kit didn’t come with the right screw driver, I should have read the comments first before buying.

My iPhone 6 battery connector bracket has 3.2mm which the PH000 works. But the 2.2mm didn’t work with included Y000.

What screw driver do I need for the 2.2 mm screw??

John Palaganas - Antwort

The heads on both of those screws are identical. The included PH000 is the correct driver. There are no Y000 screws anywhere in the iPhone 6.

Jeff Suovanen -

The Phillips in the repair kit worked fine. I did 2 phones with it.

Eric Craumer - Antwort

Just a followup to all the comments above for anyone who is confused: the drivers included in the repair kit work fine, assuming you know how to use a screwdriver correctly in the first place. There are quite a few folks who never learned, and that’s nothing to be ashamed of—in fact it’s common enough that we made a guide for it. Those bits were designed first and foremost to work with iPhone screws and have been extensively, extensively tested. You may come across stubborn screws or strip the heads if you’re not careful, and maybe that’s why some folks here are having trouble. In the very rare event that you actually received a malformed bit of some kind due to a manufacturing defect (which should be clear just from looking at it up close), reach out to customer service and they’ll get you squared away.

Jeff Suovanen - Antwort

I just completed the battery replacement and I too found that the PH000 did not sit properly in either the 3.2 or 2.2 mm screws. Using a magnifying glass it seemed that the PH000 driver bit did not sufficiently fill the space of the screw. I happen to have the iFixit Pro Kit and used the PH00 driver bit instead, and this seemed to fill the space of both screws much better leading to successful extraction and replacement. My lack of experience with phone repair may have been a factor, but it seemed at least for my particular phone the PH00 was the proper driver bit for these two screws.

Jimmy Doi - Antwort

The PH000 screwdriver I received cannot remove the smaller screw…

Michael Pesenti - Antwort

So I spend 34 bucks on a kit of tools to repair my phone and they send the wrong sized screwdriver to get the battery cover off. Awesome. I can get the larger screw out but not the smaller one. What a waste of time and money.

Michael Pesenti - Antwort

@michael_pesenti Those screw heads are the same; the screws are just different lengths. If you have the right driver for one, you have the right driver for both, unless someone put your iPhone together with the wrong screws.

Jeff Suovanen -

@jeffsu

Nope. Actually turns out that ifixit just sent me a defective screwdriver that only was poorly sized and only managed to catch one of the screws. I had to order a new PH000 Screwdriver on Amazon and it got the screws out instantly and I was able to repair my phone.

Michael Pesenti - Antwort

I used the “Maximum” precision set from Canadian Tire and the PH#00 works nicely for both these screws.

Matt - Antwort

Entferne die metallene Abdeckung des Akkuanschlusses aus dem iPhone.
  • Entferne die metallene Abdeckung des Akkuanschlusses aus dem iPhone.

Why in the YouTube video do you skip removing the battery connector

mjcoughlin70 - Antwort

Where to buy this bracket?

syidan - Antwort

One of the screws is longer than the other, use it for the higher inside hole.

Bobby Slone - Antwort

Heble den Stecker des Akkus vorsichtig mit einem Plastik Opening Tool von seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board.
  • Heble den Stecker des Akkus vorsichtig mit einem Plastik Opening Tool von seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board.

  • Achte darauf, dass du nur am Akkustecker hebelst und nicht am Anschluss auf dem Logic Board. Wenn du am Sockel hebelst, kannst du diesen irreparabel beschädigen.

I skipped steps 13-19 and just left the front panel rubber banded while I removed the battery. I just made sure to be careful while removing the adhesive strips so as not to move around the body of the phone too much. Skipping the steps made the whole process much faster and easier.

Tonima Chaudhury - Antwort

I wish I had done that.

Gail Starr -

Thanks for this awesome tip. Made the replacement go much smoother - saved me from removing all those other screws. I also recommend watching the ifixit battery adhesive strip video before proceeding with step 21.

Andy Milne -

Me too, no need to detach the screen (when you take care),

Tom Long -

In trying to replace my antenna flex cable, I attempted to skip steps 13-19 but eventually gave up around step 31/32 as I simply didn’t have the access I needed - the space was just too cramped with the screen still attached and I was afraid I would break something. If you’re a novice, don’t have good lighting and a magnifying glass, etc. you may just want to go ahead and perform 13-19. (Yes it will take extra time of course.)

Perrin Haley -

I also skipped steps 13-19 after reading the first comment.

youmingc - Antwort

I skipped those steps too and was successful. Thanks for this tip!

jaksbackpack - Antwort

Can disconnecting the battery connector while power is on ruin the backlight? Or can disconnecting the power connector at a different stage ruin the back light?

mitch Toler - Antwort

You should power down the phone before disconnecting the battery. That said, the backlight should be fine. A blown backlight circuit is most commonly caused by disconnecting the display when the battery is still connected.

Jeff Suovanen -

I did open the lcd without disconnecting the battery and my lcd wouldn't working

Reza I. Permana -

Thanks for that tip Tonima! This is another confirmation that skipping steps 13-19 worked out great!

As an extra measure, in addition to leaving the front panel rubber banded in it's open, vertical position (I secured mine to a can of beans) and being very careful and controlled when removing the adhesive strips; before using the suction cup to separate the front panel from the rear case, I had secured the back side of the rear case to my working surface (kitchen table) with a strip of folded over duct tape (creating double sided tape). Such might not have been necessary as I held the rear case with one hand while removing the adhesive strips with the other, though it just felt safer having the rear case (as well as the front panel) well secured in place to help assure that I didn't accidentally cause any damage to those very fragile looking cables that were left connected, by any possible movements of either of the iPhone's halfs during the pulling to remove the adhesive strips.

Russ Levey - Antwort

It happened to me, by prying the battery connector with another tool I broke part of the socket off the board. However, by placing it exactly back in place the connector could be placed correctly and it works. Lucky.

Udo Schuehle - Antwort

I'd like a little more explanation on how to re-attach the battery connector. But in the end I lined it up and pressed gently down till it snapped into place.

Garret Gray - Antwort

I skipped the steps removing the screen only because I didn't feel confident at all doing this. For someone who is used to electronics I would really suggest removing it because I imagine the whole process would've been easier. If there's a next time, perhaps I'll do that.

Garret Gray - Antwort

The suggestions that recommend skipping step 13-19 apply to some other repair. We replaced the display, and to do so, steps 13-19 are, of course, necessary.

Gabriel Zachmann - Antwort

When replacing the battery you should prepare the cable to sit in exactly as you see it in the picture. I had mine all the way back in (with sticky strips) and had to find a way to fit the cable in with the weird way it bends. Dry fit the battery with cable in place - lesson learned.

Chet Seidel - Antwort

Good idea. All the instructions were great until I got to the last thing- reattaching the battery connector! I like your recommendation to dry fit the connector so you can get the right bend to the connector ribbon first.

Tom Rohrer -

I wish I had seen this also, I feel like this should be in the guide. Mine seems to be working out but I had to force the connector into place a little bit.

Kevin Harvey -

I wish I had seen this first! I also had the issue, now I have a permanent discoloration of the screen where the connector is pushing against the back. Hoping that it doesnt lead to other problems. This site is really lacking on the reassembly steps… shame..

thomasjmaclean - Antwort

I'm just wondering if my computer would still recognize my phone with the battery disconnected?

Sare - Antwort

It appears that I haven’t properly connected the battery back up, since the hard reset didn’t work. I did my best to connect the battery before adhering it to the battery spot, but the connector doesn’t seem to “click” or otherwise confirm that it is properly positioned. The left side of the connector (closest to the battery) seemed slightly raised, which made me wonder if I had done it correctly. So I’m probably going to have to try using my last adhesive strips to lay it in better to allow for a better connection. I’m also worried that I may have damaged the connection spot. Is there anywhere on here where this is discussed? This is my second battery replacement, but first on this particular phone, which is apparently a refurbished one (and which has a slightly different looking connector cover).

Alex Kosmider - Antwort

Ah, it helps to discover that it’s actually a 6S rather than a 6.

Alex Kosmider -

For those of you replacing the Digitizer you to need follow steps 13 - 19.

lowestseries - Antwort

Doing a lightning connector replacement - skipped steps 13-19 as well. No problems.

cambo.robertson - Antwort

Entferne die folgenden fünf Kreuzschlitz Schrauben, mit dem die Abdeckung der Displaykabel befestigt ist:
  • Entferne die folgenden fünf Kreuzschlitz Schrauben, mit dem die Abdeckung der Displaykabel befestigt ist:

    • Drei 1,2 mm Schrauben

    • Eine 1,7 mm Schraube

    • Eine 3,1 mm Schraube

  • Eine falsche Platzierung dieser Schrauben führt zu einer permanenten Beschädigung des Logic Boards.

Be careful when replacing the screws, not to accidentally put the 1.7mm screw into the center hole, where the 1.2 screw belongs. This can cause "Long Screw" damage, and render your phone unusable.

damianodessgillett - Antwort

I don't have the magnetic pad but use duct tape face up in a tray. I write the step number and color of the screw on the sticky surface and let the screw stand heads up on the goo. The screw is presented for the driver when reassembling.

griffn - Antwort

Can't stress enough how important it is not to mix up these screws! Using the 1.7mm screw for the lower left fixing will cause "long screw damage" and kill the backlight on the phone. I believe @damianodessgillett made the same point. Wish we could display a small warning message here to be extra careful for future fixers!

kev - Antwort

I use a screw ID technique similar to griffn's; I print out the PDF version of the guide, then Scotch-tape each screw type to the guide at the step where the screw was removed. The screws are then distinguished by size and type at the point where they need to be reinstalled.

adlerpe - Antwort

i am trying but only could open 2 screws and cannot open the rest of them, can you help me??

girlsrock742 - Antwort

@girlsrock742 - I'm new here, but from what I've seen, questions like yours don't get answered. I have 2 suggestions:

# Be more specific about what your issue is.

# Make sure you're using the right screwdriver. (Get a magnifying glass & make sure the screwdriver fits nicely in the screwhead.) This guide is included in a guide I'm looking at, and my guide has a comment that #000 phillips is required for the battery connector bracket above, not #00 as documented. (That comment did not convey to this guide....)

Good luck!

Nate Schley - Antwort

Thanks to @griffn & @adlerpe! I've updated the tools list to include the magnetic pad, and -- for us infrequent fixers -- I made a note in the intro text to describe the sort of thing you two noted here in place of the mag pad.

Also, to @damianodessgillett & @kev - I've submitted an update to the instructions to add the caution you recommend to the step. Hopefully others will avoid the pain of the Long Screw damage.

Nate Schley - Antwort

It's possible to damage only a slot of flex cable ? I've opened my iPhone 6 but now front camera, speaker and the proximity sensor are not working. I've bought a new flex cabe to test it, but I have to be sure about that.

cruz.giovanni - Antwort

I'm so worried I'm going insert the wrong screw. Does anyone have any suggestions to knowing how to properly tell the size of each screw? I bought a screw set and a magnetic pad but still have the same issue. Not knowing the correct placement of each screw. I'd definitely appreciate any help.

Patric - Antwort

Hi Patric! We use a set of calipers to measure our screws, failing that you could use a very fine ruler. If you don't have any kind of measuring equipment, line the screws up on the magnetic mat and sort them by size there. Ideally you only have screws from this step! If you are trying to determine the size of all the screws in this guide, it's probably best to get a real ruler/caliper for the fine distinctions.

Sam Lionheart -

Do you have to remove the display to replace the battery?

Michael Aguilera - Antwort

It's not absolutely necessary to remove the display, I kept my display propped up throughout the operation. Removal of the display doesn't seem to offer any particular benefit, unless you have problems with the adhesive strips.

Adam - Antwort

Hi. I messed up with the screws in the cover guard sheet for the display ribbon and my iPhone 6 plus isn't turning on. Does that mean the logic board is dead or the battery ? Should I throw the phone in the garbage can ?

nzf - Antwort

Did anyone even answer your question? I'm having the same issue

Sare -

I can confirm it's not necessary to remove anything other than battery bracket. If you support the screen against something as in the picture, just make sure you hold the iPhone absolutely still with one hand while pulling out the adhesive strips with the other. I also used a small piece of tape to hold the screen in place against the box while I worked.

I am now a very happy customer and am looking forward to another few years life from my awesome iPhone 6!

Matt Whiteley - Antwort

There is no need to do this step. No need to remove these 5 screws. Just make sure the screen is propped up against something strong and this step is unnecessary for the proper removal and re-insertion of battery.

arunhn - Antwort

I left the front panel connected and it was much quicker. But, if you have to wrestle with the battery, it is much safer with the front panel removed. If you have worked on a few phone before, I'd try removing the battery with the front panel connected. If the battery is giving you problems(like if you tear the strips and have to heat the backside), you can always come back to this step.

Joel Horie - Antwort

I strongly recommend you leave the display connectors alone if you can. My battery came out without a fight, but I found the display connectors to be almost tragically delicate, and I had white lines in the display when I booted it. During the subsequent attempts to remedy that situation, things went down hill and now I'm waiting for an entirely new display to try to rescue the phone from repair oblivion.

kevin hekman - Antwort

I also skipped all of the screen-removal steps and had nary a problem. Just rubber band the screen around whatever it is propped against and I believe you'll be fine.

Billy Bob Baler - Antwort

Hello! I put the screws on in the wrong order and I believe my backlight is dead, iTunes still recognizes my phone when I plug it in, but the screen is blank. Is it possible to replace the logic board or is the phone useless forever?

Tanya Lyn Willard - Antwort

You probably connected the cables wrong, try doing this step again and carefully correct your cables.

June Beltran -

Remove each screw, tape it to a piece of letter paper, mark what spot it came out of. red, yellow, orange and the 3 reds. This way you can not possibly put them back in the wrong spots.

smahar -

I totally recommend doing this step first before removing the battery connector bracket, it will be much easier and comfortable with the screen out of the way.

Also I recommend drawing the bracket on a piece of paper and place the screws on top of the respective position on the drawing, this way you won't be confused when putting them back.

June Beltran - Antwort

I accidentally lost a 1.2mm screw while doing a screen replacement. Will this make the phone malfunction in anyway after I close it back up or its fine?

Walter White - Antwort

DO NOT DO THIS STEP. It is totally unnecessary to remove the connectors, and they are a really big pain to put back in, and there is risk of damaging them, and it adds a lot of time to the process of replacing the battery. Just securely prop up the front panel, and then if you gently heat the back of the phone when removing the adhesive strips, the battery comes off easily. I could have saved myself about 2 hours and a lot of frustration if I had just left these connectors in. I wish the instructions here would just include this step (connector removal) ONLY IF the battery doesn't come out easily.

J Marr - Antwort

Exactly, just like J, Marr indicates, this step is not necessary. Just make sure you're careful to not move the phone too much, otherwise you can damage the film connectors. Other than that I even heated my phone to remove the adhesive, and thank God, nothing bad happened to it.

Mc Floyd -

It’s only necessary if you’re like me an need to fix the screen or water damage (mine fell in water…)

jacobdanderson -

I do NOT recommend leaving the display and the rear case connected during this repair. If you run into any resistance removing the battery, or slip in the least removing it, you risk tearing the ribbon cables that attach the two pieces. I did and now I've got to replace the Front Camera and Sensor Cable. Sadness.

Ergolad - Antwort

How can't you do step 33 if you don't do 13-19? iPhone 6.

predylindsay - Antwort

I'm missing something here, I want to swap out the screen. How does one skip steps 13-19 if wanting to remove the screen?

BW Lee - Antwort

Any tips for removing the 1.2 mm screws? Mine won't budge at all with the PH000 and I'm afraid I'm stripping the screws.

MClare - Antwort

I had to use the larger bit for ALL of the screws as the small one was too narrow at the tip to actually grab anything. It worked but made it a bit more difficult.

Heather Best - Antwort

Is it really necessary to remove the front panel at all, can't you just ask a friend to hold it in an upright position while you work on the battery?

Peter - Antwort

I also skipped steps 13 - 19. Just be very careful not to apply to much stress to the connectors in between the screen and the base. For me I also used another box to keep the base from sliding around while removing the battery.

Patrick Reed - Antwort

You cannot skip these steps, of course, when you want to replace the display (which was the kind of repair we did).

When putting the little connectors in place again afterwards, I can recommend to hold the connectors to the display using a little rubber band. That way, they don’t get in the way when you put them in place one by one.

Gabriel Zachmann - Antwort

You SHOULD do the steps of removing the display. I have done battery replacements on several dozen phones. Of the ones I did NOT remove the cables, 2 of them had issues directly related to components related to these cables (front facing camera, earpiece speaker, etc.). Although tedious, I recommend removing these connectors to prevent any short circuit when reconnecting the new battery.

ACMT - 4 years.

jonbessom - Antwort

I skipped this step and just affixed the screen to the Iphone box with a rubber band during replacement. I decided to take this risk to prevent some of the other issues that have been discussed when removing the screen. I understand it is risky because if you slip or need to use any significant force to remove the battery, disaster awaits. On my repair, it worked out fine and I ensured that I took my time and kept the bottom of the phone held to the worksurface.

Michael Kirkpatrick - Antwort

There are only 2 screws when i opened mine.The centre one and the left top corner one..Is it okay to use it like that..Please help

Naresh Annepu - Antwort

If you can try to leave your display how it is. I removed it and it ended with white stripes and touchscreen not working. After a while it touch started to work and stripes went away. I think it was static electricity.

Kristaps Grinbergs - Antwort

If you decide to go ahead with this step… I did it prior to removing the battery bracket and found it to be easier. Having the screen off made things a lot easier during the battery removal process.

Eric Craumer - Antwort

Two of the screws are damaged and I can’t open them. What can I do to remove the bracket?

L He - Antwort

Stay organized with the screws with just a piece of paper. Lay them out, mark ‘em up. Go slow, take your time.

Sherman Homan - Antwort

I'm noticing some questions I have that others are asking yet no one is answering. You're all talking about the same problem that I find completely pointless. If you skip steps and it works, good for you move on. There are real questions being asked. Someone asked about losing a screw, would that effect anything? You all talk about the importance of having the screws organized, yet don't explain if someone either loses the screws or have them put into the wrong places. Since no one talks about it, I figured it wasn't as important as you all claim it is. Now my phone seems to not want to do anything anymore. Stop arguing with each other about something so miniscule like skipping steps. 40 comments on this part and 5 people actually have real problems but no answers. So, if anyone actually took the time to read this, my questions are; what happens if the screws are put in the wrong order?(other than the obvious long screw damage) and what happens if we put the phone back together without some screws?

Sare - Antwort

@sarery I’m a little puzzled by your question. If you’re not willing to put the screws back in the right place as instructed, despite all the warnings in both the guide and the comments, why would you want to attempt this repair in the first place? But nevertheless I will try to answer. Some screws, if left out, have no noticeable effect. That’s the best you can hope for. Other screws perform a vital function such as providing a path to ground. Some screws are made of nonferrous materials—getting those mixed up can interfere with things like compass functionality. And putting a wrong screw pretty much anywhere can result in cross-threading or component damage. The reason we go to the trouble of providing all these screw markings and measurements is to help you put your phone back together in perfect working order. Which you may still be able to do, if you are careful, and patient. Good luck.

Jeff Suovanen -

Thank you very much for that information. That's all I and I believe some other people were curious about.

That's what I thought this website was for, not post fighting over who's the smarter one and not putting others down. This isn't Facebook

Sare - Antwort

well said Sare - perhaps if folk stuck to the subject instead of proving how clever they are (not) there wouldn’t be 44 comments to scroll through to find an intelligent answer

philbjh - Antwort

For those who are removing the digitizer, you do need to remove the bracket to get access to cable.

lowestseries - Antwort

Definitely do NOT disconnect the screen for the battery replacement!

The battery replacement worked like a charm but now I am left with whit e stripes in the screen and touch screen functionality is lost despite many tries to get the screen reconnected.

Indiana Jones - Antwort

Hello, well I accidentally put the screws back in the wrong order after replacing the charging port, phone turns on but stays on Apple screen, any suggestions? Thank you

d.rando90 - Antwort

i have replaced my iphone 6’s screen twice now, first the phones fingerprint sensor wouldn’t work ( the original one ), so i replaced the entire screen ( new fingerprint sensor), but still doesn’t work and now the phones brightness is extremely dim on both screens. So now both screens now are dim and finger print sensors dont work.

Regan Murray - Antwort

Entferne die Abdeckung der Displaykabel  vom Logic Board.
  • Entferne die Abdeckung der Displaykabel vom Logic Board.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Achte während der nächsten vier Schritte darauf, nur an den Kabelsteckern zu hebeln und nicht an deren Fassungen auf dem Logic Board. Verwende die flache Seite eines Spudgers, um die Frontkamera und den Sensorenkabelstecker zu trennen.
  • Achte während der nächsten vier Schritte darauf, nur an den Kabelsteckern zu hebeln und nicht an deren Fassungen auf dem Logic Board.

  • Verwende die flache Seite eines Spudgers, um die Frontkamera und den Sensorenkabelstecker zu trennen.

I can not get these electrical connections to reconnect. If there is some secret to this it should be noted. I now have a phone all taken apart and can not get it back together. It makes no sense to only give directions to take a phone apart and not to put it back together.

douglas hughes - Antwort

Use sideways bright light and peek underneath as you mate the contacts to align properly. Press very gently and evenly. Others have written that too much pressure in the center may warp the contact.

mahoffman - Antwort

I'm having the same problem as above...really upset and frustrated at this point. :( 2/4 connectors (top and right) will 'click' just fine...the other two (bottom two) for the life of me wont connect!!!! :( any suggestions? i feel like i have tried everything. Sucks that is only thing stopping me screen from being repaired....

alyssaavaldezz - Antwort

Hi alyssa. Were you able to connect the cables? I am having the same problem

Veronica del Rio -

regarding cable connects - if two of the ribbon cables are not properly overlapped around each other, then it will appear as if cable #2 will need to plug into the closest jack, which is actually for cable#3. Look at the two connectors carefully - they are opposite gender and can't be interchanged.

David Panak - Antwort

This is good advice, and usually the problem people experience here. There is a very specific way the ribbon cables are layered, and if not correct when reassembled, the reach of the cables will cause you to assume which cable goes where and to try to insert the wrong plugs into the wrong sockets. Please do not try to force them. If they don't snap in easily, examine them closely, and you'll see the plugs and sockets are slightly different sizes, with one wider than the other. Better to take care to note how the cables layer during disassembly, or perhaps mark them to avoid this frustration on reassembly.

gybeho -

Check order of cables. From screen replacement.

lee moran - Antwort

my problem is that the connectors are different the screen i replaced it with the connectors were longer than the broken screen even though there the exact same type of screen

andrew midgett - Antwort

Probably just have the cables out of order. Check the posts above.

gybeho - Antwort

"gybeho" Ok, but it's impossible to install flex cables out of order. Each one has diferent sizes of docking...

cruz.giovanni - Antwort

it is very possible to install flex cables out of order. to most people working on their first screen replacement they do not have the experience to notice that their flex cable connection is different than the dock connection. this causes them to press harder and force the connection into the dock, ruining the connections, if they do not think the they have the cables out of order

Dakota Navarrete - Antwort

I'm with Andrew Midgett. The connectors are just plain different in size and orientation. My phone matches what's shown in the picture above. You can see an example of the replacement part if you search Amazon for "Sanka LCD Touch Screen Digitizer Frame Assembly Full Set Screen Replacement for iPhone 6". And Sanka isn't the only iPhone 6 replacement that looks like that, so no hating on that manufacturer here.

Does this mean that some iPhone 6 phones have one set of connectors and some have a different set? FWIW, the model on the back of my phone says A1549.

PG McLaughlin - Antwort

Update: Searching for iPhone 6S instead of 6 on Amazon, I see lots of replacement screens with connectors that look a lot more like what I have and what's shown in the picture above. (One connector has a horizontal orientation, the other is vertical. I can't be sure whether the pins or dimensions match otherwise.) Any wisdom here?

PG McLaughlin - Antwort

Had the same problem with the correct layering of cable harnesses. Perhaps an additional photo showing the correct layering would be helpful for 1st timers?

William Breen - Antwort

+1 for a photo showing the correct layering and routing of cables. I accidentally routed the home button ribbon above the digitizer ribbon and beneath the power and backlight ribbons. The uneven pressure it put on the digitizer connector after tightening the plate caused my digitizer to not recognize touching the display or made touches appear off center.

drpotter -

For everybody who thinks they can skip these steps I commend you. No way I would have been able to get my battery out - two broken strips - without removing the screen. Re-inserting these cables was not really difficult - once the first one is back in place the rest follow quickly.

Chet Seidel - Antwort

I tried to reconnect these for ages until I watched a video of someone else doing it.

Don’t try to line up the connectors by looking at them with the screen leaning on a soda can, just hold the two halves in each hand and line the first one up by feel. Really. After that it’s plain sailing.

Even with great lighting I couldn’t make this work with the bits on the bench - yet when I picked them up it was really easy to feel them line up. I had all four popped back on in about 60 seconds.

Pitt Monqui - Antwort

Verwende das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um den Home Button Kabelstecker zu trennen. Verwende das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um den Home Button Kabelstecker zu trennen.
  • Verwende das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um den Home Button Kabelstecker zu trennen.

Muy buenas....una pregunta tecnica...si el botón falla o no está bien conectado...al conectar este conector ¿ se apagaría el teléfono?. Repare mi iphone y al conectarlo se me apaga el movil, sin embargo si no lo enchufo el movil enciende perfectamente.

Gracias.

Berta fernandez - Antwort

Trenne den Display Datenkabelstecker mit einem Spudger. Wenn du dein Mobiltelefon wieder zusammenbaust, springt das Datenkabel möglicherweise vom Stecker ab. Dies kann in weißen Linien oder einem schwarzen Bildschirm resultieren, wenn du dein Mobiltelefon wieder anmachst. Wenn das passiert, schließe das Kabel einfach wieder an und starte dein Mobiltelefon erneut.
  • Trenne den Display Datenkabelstecker mit einem Spudger.

  • Wenn du dein Mobiltelefon wieder zusammenbaust, springt das Datenkabel möglicherweise vom Stecker ab. Dies kann in weißen Linien oder einem schwarzen Bildschirm resultieren, wenn du dein Mobiltelefon wieder anmachst. Wenn das passiert, schließe das Kabel einfach wieder an und starte dein Mobiltelefon erneut.

you missed the name of the second connctor. there are four total

copykatt - Antwort

My screen is completely black and i can see the lights turning on when i press the home or lock button. Maybe this cable got damaged ?

Gabriel Hirata - Antwort

Perhaps you bought a faulty screen. Often this is the case when it shows completely black.

William Mullan - Antwort

When I was preforming this step, while reassembling, I had to connect the digitizer cable four times. On the last time, before screwing the Front Panel Assembly Cable Bracket on, I reconnected the battery connector and turned my phone on (ensuring that I was careful not to damage any cables!) to ensure that all cables were connected correctly and that the screen was fully functional.

Christopher - Antwort

NO NO NO ! i am a professional iphone repairman and i strongly recommend against using ANY tool to disconnect the flex connectors if u slip or use to much force you will damage the connector and may cause permanent damage to the phones logic board rendering it completely UNrepairable! Instead gently use the edge of your fingernail and pry up and the connectors will usually come off with very little effort .

taylor sparks - Antwort

Fingernails work great as well! However, there's nothing wrong with using a tool, as long as you exercise a little caution. If you've ever seen one of Apple's iPhone service manuals, you'll note that they use the exact same tool as iFixit (Apple calls it a "black stick" and iFixit dubs it a "spudger.")

Jeff Suovanen -

I'm pretty sure ifixit are pros, I used them 4 times to fix phones and no problems with using tools for flex cables.

Dave - Antwort

If you still have white lines after you've tried reconnecting the connectors and power cycling. Just do a hard reset a few more times, let the phone stay on and wait a while. As long as it's not damaged, the lines will fade over the next hour or so. Your phone will be as good as new.

grjos - Antwort

If my screen is giving me white lines and occasional ghost clicks on the right side does anyone know if it’s possibly only a faulty cable vs needing a full screen swap? I’d rather not waste a perfectly good screen.

Andrew Hill - Antwort

what if my phone wont turn back on even after following all these steps carefully . i even put the old screen back on and it wont turn on still???

Daniel Murcia - Antwort

what if the batery was not disconnected?

Sergio Midence - Antwort

Verwende das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um den Kabelstecker des Digitizers zu trennen. Achte beim Wiederanschluss des Kabels darauf, nicht in der Mitte des Steckers zu drücken. Drücke erst an einem und dann am anderen Ende des Steckers. Wenn du in der Mitte drückst, kannst du den Anschluss und das Kabel des Touch Panels  beschädigen.
  • Verwende das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um den Kabelstecker des Digitizers zu trennen.

  • Achte beim Wiederanschluss des Kabels darauf, nicht in der Mitte des Steckers zu drücken. Drücke erst an einem und dann am anderen Ende des Steckers. Wenn du in der Mitte drückst, kannst du den Anschluss und das Kabel des Touch Panels beschädigen.

Reassembly was harder than other i devices I have worked on. A bench light from the side helped a lot with the first cable, the digitizer. The others went a bit better in this crowded space. I had screen lines when testing it out before closing the top, so reinstalled all four connectors here with the aid of a side light and happily, that worked!

griffn - Antwort

i crossed over the first two cables initially, when re-assembled; make sure by the WIDTH that you are trying to connect them in the right order.

awr - Antwort

How many times can i peel these connections without braking the connection between screen and logic borad

falken1337 - Antwort

Is this the breaking down process for the Verizon version of the iPhone 6s? I know the flex cables were different for other versions and with my last iPhone I made the mistake of ordering one that had completely different cable places. Someone please send me a link to one that fits the Verizon 4.7 display!!!

Bailey Duncan - Antwort

This break down isn't for a 6S. It is for a plain 6 (no S). Yes there is some differences because of the 3D touch feature.

Keith Mullins - Antwort

So what is the fix if there is digitizer damage? Replacing the screen?

After reinstallation, I am encountering issues with an area of the screen that is not responding to touch. Everything else works fine.

Anyone have any ideas how I should proceed?

Jonathan Rivera - Antwort

I had the exact same problem. I tried 10-20 times and the screen had vertical lines in the middle and the touch function didn't properly work. Then I discovered the issue. I had damaged the first connector (lcd connector) when reassembling the screen.

What I did was to carefully with a tweezer press the damaged ones in to the correct position. Than I heard a solid "click" when I attached it and I got really hopeful.

I finished with the rest of the connectors and put the bracket and screws back to Place and hit the powerbutton. IT WORKED!

So, look at the first connector with a magnifying glass, the shortest one, closest to the camera. Maybe I got a little lucky when I managed to fix the connector without replacing it. Good luck. I feel your frustration all the way to Sweden.

// Simon

Simon Tengstrand -

I mean digitizer Cable= the first connector (lcd connector).

Simon Tengstrand -

I had the most issues when reassembling with this step. The plastic tool is a fail in my experience since not enough pressure could be applied using it. I just ended up using my finger and that worked 10Xs better. My advice, watch a few YouTube videos of people reconnecting the connectors and you'll be fine.

grjos - Antwort

I have dis-connected and reconnected several times with the white line appearing each time. The screen however seems to be responsive. I did lose a 1.2 mm screw. Is it the missing screw or did I damage the digitizer connection?

Charlotte - Antwort

I had the exact same problem. I tried 10-20 times and the screen had vertical lines in the middle and the touch function didn't properly work. Then I discovered the issue. I had damaged the first connector (lcd connector) when reassembling the screen.

What I did was to carefully with a tweezer press the damaged ones in to the correct position. Than I heard a solid "click" when I attached it and I got really hopeful.

I finished with the rest of the connectors and put the bracket and screws back to place and hit the powerbutton. IT WORKED!

So, look at the first connector with a magnifying glass, the shortest one, closest to the camera. Maybe I got a little lucky when I managed to fix the connector without replacing it. Good luck. I feel your frustration all the way to Sweden.

I had three screws left when I did some repairs on my iphone 4 and that didn't matter. It worked like a charm :)

// Simon

Simon Tengstrand -

I mean digitizer Cable= the first connector (lcd connector)

Simon Tengstrand -

Be especially careful in this step or your iPhone won’t respond to your touch after reassembling.

Ume Nishikino - Antwort

My home screen button is not working after reassembly, not only the Touch ID but the actual button doesn't work. I have iPhone 6S . How can I fix this? Thanks

Sissy -

I noticed that I had bent this connector. Barely. After about a dozen connect/reconnect attempts, bent it back and everything works as intended. Prior to bending it, was getting white lines and touchscreen was unresponsive. After bending and reconnecting, fired up exactly as it had prior to disassembly.

Heywoz - Antwort

Entferne die Display Einheit vom hinteren Gehäuse.
  • Entferne die Display Einheit vom hinteren Gehäuse.

Is it not possible to start here? Just leave the screen assembly attached and only replace the home button?

Joeri Boersen - Antwort

Please don’t do that. You will break your cables almost assuredly if you leave it attached to your phone trust me

Curtis Jordan Lenox - Antwort

Is front camera supposed to be attached to the digitizer?

Neos Kosmos - Antwort

Stecke ein SIM-Karten Eject Werkzeug oder eine Büroklammer in das kleine Loch des SIM-Karten Einsatzes. Drücke, um den Einsatz auszuwerfen.
  • Stecke ein SIM-Karten Eject Werkzeug oder eine Büroklammer in das kleine Loch des SIM-Karten Einsatzes.

  • Drücke, um den Einsatz auszuwerfen.

  • Dies benötigt vielleicht mehr Kraft als gedacht.

Why isn’t this the first step in the process? Seems unnecessarily risky to fumble with popping the SIM in and out when you’ve already opened up the phone.

Perrin Haley - Antwort

Entferne den SIM-Karten Einsatz aus dem iPhone.
  • Entferne den SIM-Karten Einsatz aus dem iPhone.

  • Achte beim wieder einsetzen darauf, dass die SIM-Karte in der korrekten Ausrichtung im Einsatz steckt.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Löse mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers das Kabel der Lightning Connector Einheit und falte es weg von den Lautsprechern. Löse mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers das Kabel der Lightning Connector Einheit und falte es weg von den Lautsprechern.
  • Löse mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers das Kabel der Lightning Connector Einheit und falte es weg von den Lautsprechern.

How vital is that foam looking piece on top of the antenna cable connector? It popped off when I was lifting.

Carter Christie - Antwort

Same thing happened to me. I hope it's not too vital!

paulflicker - Antwort

you did not show the removal of battery bracket.

Richard Anderson - Antwort

If the foam piece on top comes off (which it probably will), replace with a tiny piece of electrical tape to maintain electrical isolation.

Colin Lacey - Antwort

Löse mit der Spitze eines Spudgers das Antennenkabel vom Anschluss auf dem Logic Board. Löse mit der Spitze eines Spudgers das Antennenkabel vom Anschluss auf dem Logic Board.
  • Löse mit der Spitze eines Spudgers das Antennenkabel vom Anschluss auf dem Logic Board.

Definitely was a very small snug fitting connector.

ronjon40 - Antwort

ripped off the foam on top while trying to pry it out. Also careful not to pull the entire logic board while doing this

Jordan Leong - Antwort

Ah, isn't that a bugger to get back in place after finished repairs! Be patient! Position and gently press. If no click, reposition and try again... time an time again. Did I say, be patient?

Lars Andersson - Antwort

Yes to this. Listen for that satisfying click…

Christa -

I found that this is not the best tool for removing this component.. The connector is round and the the pointed tip of the tool makes it very easy to slip off the connector and do damage to other components. As I was trying to disconnect the connector, the tool slipped and tore the wire out of the connector. The flat end of the spudger seems like it would work better.

Trent Warner - Antwort

Yes, the flat end of the spudger works definitely better.

Alexander Kvasov -

(I had to do this step to replace the antenna flex cable)

I couldn’t pull this connector at all. Tried tip of spudger, flat end of spudger, my nail (which even got a dent in the process ^^) and finally the tweezers (I know, risky) but the little bastard wouldn’t come off…

I managed to pull out the logic board very carefully and twisted it in the least straining way for the cable to access the flex cable on the back.

In the end everything was fine and the repair worked ok.

Switching this step for this repair can be ok if you are extra carefull with twisting the cable

Tug - Antwort

I found this step the most difficult both during disassembly and assembly. I only had a flat end of a spludger and this seemed to work pretty good, but definitely required patience to remove it. In recconnecting, be just as patient!

Bill - Antwort

I found this the most difficult step, both for disassembly and assembly. I only had a flat ended spludger, but it worked ok…just require a lot of patience and careful manipulation. The same amount of patience was required to put the connector back.

Bill - Antwort

Found it easiest to go beneath the cable (on the opposite side from what’s shown on the photos) and leverage from there, using tip of spudger.

Helge Fahrnberger - Antwort

What antenna does this cable attach to? I’m trying to determine if this would be the cellular antenna.

kris - Antwort

If you just need to look under the logic board to check for corrosion you can skip this step and just maneuver the logic board afterwords (I accidentally did this and it worked just fine and I didnt’ have to worry about putting the wire back in.

jacobdanderson - Antwort

I lost the little black foam on top of this connector :(

It was not very well glued, I think I lost it while removing the whole logic board. I put some little piece of insulating tape. It seems everything works after reassembling, so…

Julien-Pierre - Antwort

i broke this cable. Lol.

until now “no service”. haha

Aiman Jamali - Antwort

Entferne die beiden folgenden Kreuzschlitz Schrauben, die die obere Kabelklammer befestigen:
  • Entferne die beiden folgenden Kreuzschlitz Schrauben, die die obere Kabelklammer befestigen:

    • Eine 2,9 mm Schraube

    • Eine 2,2 mm Schraube

I reached till this step to replace the antenna cable using the toolkit I ordered with the cable from ifixit shop. But I could not open the orange marked screw in this step and had to roll back the whole thing as I did not want to destroy the screw by applying force. It seems to me the #000 philips screw driver bit I got is poor quality as I had trouble opening the small red screws as well.

Any recommendation for better quality #000 Phillips screw driver?

Suhaib Khalid - Antwort

Put the phone on a solid surface (table or countertop), hold the screwdriver exactly vertical, press it down hard on the screw head, and turn. That’s all it takes! You’re not going to hurt anything by pressing down firmly. Some screws just require a little more force, and using a different screwdriver won’t change anything.

Jeff Suovanen -

Entferne die obere Kabelklammer aus dem iPhone. Entferne die obere Kabelklammer aus dem iPhone.
  • Entferne die obere Kabelklammer aus dem iPhone.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Achte beim Lösen der folgenden Kabel darauf, nur an den Steckern und nicht an den Anschlüssen auf dem Logic Board zu hebeln, du könntest sie irreparabel beschädigen. Löse mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers das Kabel der Power Button und Blitz Einheitvon seinem Anschluss. Löse das Kabel des Lautstärkereglers von seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board.
  • Achte beim Lösen der folgenden Kabel darauf, nur an den Steckern und nicht an den Anschlüssen auf dem Logic Board zu hebeln, du könntest sie irreparabel beschädigen.

  • Löse mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers das Kabel der Power Button und Blitz Einheitvon seinem Anschluss.

  • Löse das Kabel des Lautstärkereglers von seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board.

This is the most challenging piece in wrapping up the repair. any suggestions, anyone?

Adrian V - Antwort

I found that when reconnecting the smaller connector, sliding it from the top of the phone towards the battery was the easiest way to get it aligned.

Colin Lacey - Antwort

Entferne die folgenden vier Kreuzschlitzschrauben von der Wlan Antenne:
  • Entferne die folgenden vier Kreuzschlitzschrauben von der Wlan Antenne:

    • Eine 1,5 mm Schraube

    • Eine 1,4 mm Schraube

    • Zwei 2,1 mm Schrauben

unable to get 1.4mm screw out with included 000 ph driver. Any ideas?

David Craig - Antwort

I´m unable to remove all 4 screws with the tools provided

Renato Caicedo - Antwort

The 1.5 mm screw got stripped. Any ideas?

John Galvin - Antwort

I can’t get the 1.4 and 1.5 screws out even after reading how to unscrew properly. Worried I am stripping screws.

Mareque Ireland - Antwort

Try a #0 driver and be patient. Had to push down a bit to ensure connection with the screw but worked for me.

Chris Reimer - Antwort

Entferne die Wlan-Antenne aus dem iPhone. Achte darauf, dass du keine Metallkontakte mit den Fingern berührst – nutze Pinzetten oder Handschuhe. Das Fingerfett kann die Leitfähigkeit der Kontakte unterbrechen. Solltest du irgendwelche der Komponenten berühren, putze diese mit Reinigungsalkohol oder etwas Ähnlichem.
  • Entferne die Wlan-Antenne aus dem iPhone.

  • Achte darauf, dass du keine Metallkontakte mit den Fingern berührst – nutze Pinzetten oder Handschuhe. Das Fingerfett kann die Leitfähigkeit der Kontakte unterbrechen. Solltest du irgendwelche der Komponenten berühren, putze diese mit Reinigungsalkohol oder etwas Ähnlichem.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Entferne die beiden 1,6 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben, die die Erdungsklammer befestigen.
  • Entferne die beiden 1,6 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben, die die Erdungsklammer befestigen.

I have assembled an iPhone 6 and it seems that everything goes fine except the NFC. The phone does not respond to the POS when using Apple Pay. I think there should be some poor connection between the logic board and NFC antenna. If so, which screws should I scrutinise to fix this problem? Thank you.

facebook - Antwort

These two little screws are in pretty tight.

Matt Lobban - Antwort

I could not for the life of me get the screw on the left side out! But with the right hand screw out I was able to proceed and lift the logic board out without removing the bracket.

Kayleigh Steele - Antwort

It’s not really a “grounding” bracket, but rather the RF connection to the combined 2.4GHz WiFi/GPS/BT/Diversity cellular antenna integrated in the top bezel. Thus it’s essential that you get a good electrical connection, otherwise your RF stuff won’t work.

Dormouse - Antwort

I CANNOT get these screws out!

Becky n - Antwort

Entferne die Erdungsklammer aus dem iPhone. Entferne die Erdungsklammer aus dem iPhone.
  • Entferne die Erdungsklammer aus dem iPhone.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Entferne die folgenden beiden Kreuzschlitzschrauben, die die abgewinkelte Logic Board Klammer befestigen: Eine 2,6 mm Schraube
  • Entferne die folgenden beiden Kreuzschlitzschrauben, die die abgewinkelte Logic Board Klammer befestigen:

    • Eine 2,6 mm Schraube

    • Eine 1,3 mm Schraube, die horizontal im oberen Rand des iPhones sitzt

Is there an easy way to remove the 1.3MM screw in here I can't eem to remove it by hand.

sem schilder - Antwort

I'm having the same problem, did you manage to remove it?

Daniel Villanis -

I faced it today, You can use a 1.5mm flat head screw driver to remove it. The guide mentions this in step 36 for stand-off screw. Hope iFIX changes the guide to indicate the flat screw driver or remove the step here.

Anand Parthasarathy - Antwort

Not sure we're talking about the same screw—this is definitely a Phillips (as shown in the photo), not a standoff. It's usually easiest with a dedicated Phillips driver, as opposed to the interchangeable bit drivers, which are fatter and a little tougher to angle in correctly.

Jeff Suovanen -

Jeff, you are right, The instructions indicate a flat head screw driver. Since I ordered the kit with the part, it is easy to assume this will be part of it. My revised comment would be to highlight that the kit would not include it if pairing with the antenna cable replacement part order. Regarding the screw, big picture did not show the screw in orange, I mistook it as the one in later step. You are right it seems to be Phillips as shown in second small picture.

Anand Parthasarathy -

I wasn't able to remove horizontal screw, but was able to continue on with the remaining steps with no problems. The logic board slid from below the angled logic board bracket.

Gar Galen - Antwort

I wasn't able to remove the horizontal screw either and moved on with no problems as well. Thanks for the tip!

Kelsey Chesnut -

Also unable to remove the horizontal 1.3mm phillips screw, but it was OK as it didn’t prevent me from proceeding with later steps.

Perrin Haley -

Same for me. Couldn’t get it out, left it in - worked perfectly.

And by the way - thanks sooooo much for the comments guys - helped me a lot through this repair!

Wusels -

I’m struggling to remove 2.6 mm screw. The head seems to be very worn. It’s the only screw left, holding the board to the case. I tried to unscrew it at different angles, applying pressure. Nothing is working. Any ideas how to remove it?

Joanna Kastelik - Antwort

Stripped screws are a nightmare and there are no guarantees. If it’s only mildly stripped, you can try going up one size on your screwdriver and using a good amount of downward pressure. But if it starts to strip again, stop before you do any more damage. Try some of the additional techniques in the stripped screw guide. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

This is not just a mechanical bracket, but the upper cellular antenna tuning connection to the top bezel antenna. Thus it needs a good electrical connection, or your cell coverage will be bad.

Dormouse - Antwort

To elaborate; When reassembling, the 2.6mm screw needs to go in quite tight, since it squeezes a small rise in the “angled logic board bracket” (really a connector between antenna tuner and the top bezel antenna) against a small gold pad on the main logic board.

This electrical connection needs to work, else the dynamic antenna tuning won’t work - which will cause problems in radio band switching (for instance between 3G and 4G, or different 4G bands). A typical indication that you have a problem here is that it can temporarily be “fixed” by squeezing the top of the phone. It’s really a crappy design choice by Apple.

Dormouse -

I also proceeded without removing the 1.3mm screw and continued on with the remaining steps with no problems. Gar Galen (above) was correct - “The logic board slid from below the angled logic board bracket.”

Joey Imperatori - Antwort

Couldn’t get the 1.3mm screw out but it didn’t stop me

Tessa Baker - Antwort

Entferne die abgewinkelte Logic Board Klammer. Entferne die abgewinkelte Logic Board Klammer.
  • Entferne die abgewinkelte Logic Board Klammer.

The right side of the bracket may be under some black tape that may need to be removed to allow you to remove the bracket.

Doug Whyte - Antwort

Yes, further, It never came out for me. But, I lifted slightly and that was enough for board to slide out. Did not want to force the palstic/rubber part to avoid breaking it.

Anand Parthasarathy - Antwort

I broke the part where the screw connecting it to the logic board goes. The metal part is still okay just the screw won't go in. Will it still work?

Neel Nani - Antwort

Entferne die einzelne 1,2 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube, die das Ösenkabel der Antenne befestigt.
  • Entferne die einzelne 1,2 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube, die das Ösenkabel der Antenne befestigt.

Make sure to tighten these screws well when reassembling so you don't have issues with cellular reception. Had a phone that wouldn't connect to cellular connection after a screen replacement. I tightened the screw and it started working again.

Christian Abreu - Antwort

If you got those strips you will have to remove the screen again and make sure you're plugging properly all the flex cables to the lógica board. Try to push them from the right to the left side.

Jas - Antwort

This screw was missing from my phone. Could this be what is causing the bluetooth/GPS/wifi issues?

Kyle Sullivan - Antwort

I was working on a cell reception issue and notice that this screw is missing as well. I had the screen previously repaired by a third party and am not sure if they did a poor job and lost parts, or if it was legit missing in the first place based on Kyle’s comment above.

ttilberg - Antwort

The Screw and Step´s 34 “antenna interconnect cable” are missing in my phone. Could this be what is causing the bluetooth/GPS/wifi issues?

Renan Sesti - Antwort

Halte mit der Spitze eines Spudgers das Ösenkabel der Antenne weg vom Logic Board. Halte mit der Spitze eines Spudgers das Ösenkabel der Antenne weg vom Logic Board.
  • Halte mit der Spitze eines Spudgers das Ösenkabel der Antenne weg vom Logic Board.

Argh — easy to forget on the reassemble and even easier to break! A “do the reverse” of these instructions really isn’t sufficient.

Iain York - Antwort

This is part no. 00095-AF.

brendon - Antwort

Nutze die Spitze eines Spudgers, um den Anschluss des Kamerakabels von seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board zu lösen. Achte darauf, nur am Kabel zu hebeln und nicht dem Anschluss selbst, du könntest sonst das Logic Board beschädigen. Halte das Kamerakabel weg vom Logic Board.
  • Nutze die Spitze eines Spudgers, um den Anschluss des Kamerakabels von seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board zu lösen.

    • Achte darauf, nur am Kabel zu hebeln und nicht dem Anschluss selbst, du könntest sonst das Logic Board beschädigen.

  • Halte das Kamerakabel weg vom Logic Board.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Entferne die folgenden Schrauben, die das Logic Board im Gehäuse befestigen:
  • Entferne die folgenden Schrauben, die das Logic Board im Gehäuse befestigen:

    • Zwei 1,9 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben

    • Eine 2,3 mm Abstandshalte-Schraube

      • Abstandsschrauben lassen sich am besten mit einem iPhone Abstandsschraubenbit und Bithalter herausdrehen.

      • Zur Not geht es auch mit einem kleinen Flachschraubendreher, du musst dabei aber aufpassen, dass du nicht abrutschst und umliegende Bauteile beschädigst.

The standoff screw was difficult to remove because a normal phillips head screwdriver is the wrong shape. I had to use a small flat head screwdriver carefully to get it off.

Matthew Williams - Antwort

I absolutely can not get this standoff screw off. Searching the web now for "iphone standoff screw" I see that there are specialized screwdrivers for getting this screw off. I wish I had one right at this moment! Anyway, an improvement to these instructions would be to mention this standoff screw upfront, so that one can be prepared with the right screwdriver before starting this job. I'm stuck at this step right now. A small flathead screwdriver just isn't cutting it.

paulflicker - Antwort

Hello. I used a 1.5 mm flat screwdriver from iFixit Pro Tech Toolkit. It worked easily for me.

Angelo Mastrella -

Yes, I too faced issue and the guide should indicate we need a 1.5mm flat head screw driver. Without that, you end up in half disassembled phone with no way to fix further.

IFIXIT, please adjust the instructions and better yet add a small 1.5mm flat head tip to use in the kit.

Anand Parthasarathy - Antwort

Well it does say to use a flathead in the instructions, and it's also in the tools list at the top of the guide. Although if you really want to make it easy, you can use a standoff driver (or just the standoff bit if you already have the driver handle).

Jeff Suovanen -

Jeff, you are right, it mentions in the list. I stand corrected. But when ordering the repair kit with the part for antenna cable replacement, it is not clear we will need this as well. You would assume you have all you need from the kit and that is something I feel either IFIX include the flat head or add a note to require that when ordering.

Anand Parthasarathy -

@gadgetag That's a fair point! I've passed your comments along to our tool development team, and they're already working on an update for the fix kit. Hope the lack of a flathead didn't trip you up too much. Thanks for your feedback!

Jeff Suovanen -

My device didn’t have the standoff screw.

Dan Thorson - Antwort

Mine didn´t either

Renan Sesti -

Never use the pointy end of the spuger to put back the standoff screw in place. It can break off some plastic in the hole since it’s threaded inside and you will have major problem to remove it. If the standoff scew isn’t tight enough when you put it back on, it’s not a big deal since you will put another screw in its center at the end of the rebuild and you will be able to tighten both screws at that point. Just don’t use the spudger to put it back on. That standoff screw is a poor concept.

Mathieu Paquette - Antwort

Just a side note; I understand the list of tools required for this job includes a “Flathead 3/32” or 2.5 mm Screwdriver,” but wanted to mention that a Wera 2.5 mm diver is too thick (0.4 mm) to do a good job of removing the standoff. With a fair amount of pressure I was able to make it work, but as others have pointed out, I would expect a 1.5 mm flathead driver to have a thinner head (0.23 mm from Wera) and be more suited to the task, barring having an actual standoff driver.

Kees Vermeulen - Antwort

Nutze das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um den Akkuanschluss ein wenig vom Logic Board zu lösen, so, dass du ihn mit den Fingern greifen kannst. Setze mit dem Spudger in der Nähe des Metallschilds unter dem SIM-Karten Einsatz an, um jegliche Beschädigungen an Bausteinen oder Anschlüssen zu vermeiden.
  • Nutze das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um den Akkuanschluss ein wenig vom Logic Board zu lösen, so, dass du ihn mit den Fingern greifen kannst.

    • Setze mit dem Spudger in der Nähe des Metallschilds unter dem SIM-Karten Einsatz an, um jegliche Beschädigungen an Bausteinen oder Anschlüssen zu vermeiden.

Where is a safe place to put the logic board one removed?

Carter Christie - Antwort

Where can i buy a motherboard for my iphone 6

Jeffrey Dennis - Antwort

Hebe das Logic Board am Ende des Akkuanschlusses an und ziehe es aus dem Gehäuse. Achte darauf, nicht mit dem Logic Board an irgendwelchen Kabeln hängenzubleiben. Achte darauf, nicht mit dem Logic Board an irgendwelchen Kabeln hängenzubleiben.
  • Hebe das Logic Board am Ende des Akkuanschlusses an und ziehe es aus dem Gehäuse.

    • Achte darauf, nicht mit dem Logic Board an irgendwelchen Kabeln hängenzubleiben.

I've been told that the problem with my phone is the logic board. Can any standard logic board be swapped in for a defective one, or are there any additional steps needed to get the phone operational?

Dennis Gagomiros - Antwort

If you are following these instructions for the purpose of replacing the commonly failing wifi antenna cable, you will find it on the back of the logic board when you lift it out. You will need to fiddle around a bit to find the right position for the 4 connectors - they are microscopic - and you will hear tiny little clicks when they go in the right places. Check by looking at the board and antenna sideways, to see that they are all in place, before starting reassembly.

Lars Andersson - Antwort

good tip, to look at it sideways to confirm seating of connectors.

Christa -

5-6 days from salt water damaged so this process will work so or not and this is my first time so i m afraid…i will go ahead or not?

swayanshu panda - Antwort

When re-assembling make sure all the connectors remain above the logic board. Especially the power button and flash assembly connectors shown on Step 26.

MEHMET YILDIZ - Antwort

When re-assembling make sure all the connectors remain above the logic board. Especially power button and flash connectors shown in Step 26 are tricky.

MEHMET YILDIZ - Antwort

6 cables to keep above the board when re-inserting: two on top left, one top right, three at the bottom.

Christa - Antwort

Ziehe den ersten Akku-Klebestreifen, ausgehend von der unteren rechten Ecke des Akkus, nach unten weg.
  • Ziehe den ersten Akku-Klebestreifen, ausgehend von der unteren rechten Ecke des Akkus, nach unten weg.

    • Benutze deine Finger oder eine stumpfe Pinzette und sei extra vorsichtig wenn du in der Nähe des Akkus arbeitest – einen Li-Ionen Akku aufzustechen kann gefährliche Chemikalien freisetzen und einen Brand verursachen.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Ziehe den Akku-Klebestreifen vorsichtig Richtung unterem Rand des iPhones. Achte darauf, nicht gegen den Akku oder Komponenten im unteren Bereich zu ziehen, damit der Klebestreifen nicht reißt. Ziehe weiter, bis du den Streifen zwischen dem Akku und der Rückseite herausziehen kannst. Wenn du dabei erhöhten Widerstand spürst ziehe nicht weiter, sondern fahre mit dem nächsten Schritt fort.
  • Ziehe den Akku-Klebestreifen vorsichtig Richtung unterem Rand des iPhones.

    • Achte darauf, nicht gegen den Akku oder Komponenten im unteren Bereich zu ziehen, damit der Klebestreifen nicht reißt.

  • Ziehe weiter, bis du den Streifen zwischen dem Akku und der Rückseite herausziehen kannst. Wenn du dabei erhöhten Widerstand spürst ziehe nicht weiter, sondern fahre mit dem nächsten Schritt fort.

  • Sollte der Akku-Klebestreifen trotz allem beim Entfernen reißen, nutze nur deine Finger oder eine stumpfe Pinzette, um den Rest zu greifen und weiter zu ziehen.

    • Wenn ein Klebestreifen unter dem Akku reißt und nicht mehr ereicht werden kann, entferne den Rest und springe zu Schritt 44.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Wenn du verstärkten Widerstand des Klebestreifens fühlst, ziehe ihn vorsichtig um die rechte untere Ecke des Akkus. Ziehe weiter am Klebestreifen, nach oben und weg von der rechten Kante, bis der Streifen sich zwischen Akku und Rückseite herausziehen lässt. Achte darauf, dass der Klebestreifen nicht am Akkuanschluss hängenbleibt, dieser könnte sonst beschädigt werden.
  • Wenn du verstärkten Widerstand des Klebestreifens fühlst, ziehe ihn vorsichtig um die rechte untere Ecke des Akkus.

  • Ziehe weiter am Klebestreifen, nach oben und weg von der rechten Kante, bis der Streifen sich zwischen Akku und Rückseite herausziehen lässt.

  • Achte darauf, dass der Klebestreifen nicht am Akkuanschluss hängenbleibt, dieser könnte sonst beschädigt werden.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Ziehe den zweiten Akku-Klebestreifen, ausgehend von der unteren linken Ecke des Akkus, nach unten weg. Zieh den Kleber wieder vorsichtig weg vom Akku, bis du den Streifen zwischen dem Akku und der Rückseite herausziehen kannst.
  • Ziehe den zweiten Akku-Klebestreifen, ausgehend von der unteren linken Ecke des Akkus, nach unten weg.

  • Zieh den Kleber wieder vorsichtig weg vom Akku, bis du den Streifen zwischen dem Akku und der Rückseite herausziehen kannst.

  • Wenn du dabei erhöhten Widerstand spürst ziehe nicht weiter, sondern fahre mit dem nächsten Schritt fort.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Wenn du verstärkten Widerstand des Klebestreifens fühlst, ziehe ihn vorsichtig um die linke untere Ecke des Akkus.
  • Wenn du verstärkten Widerstand des Klebestreifens fühlst, ziehe ihn vorsichtig um die linke untere Ecke des Akkus.

  • Achte darauf, dass der Kleber nicht an der Ecke des Akkus hängenbleibt, da der Streifen sonst reißen könnte.

  • Ziehe weiter am Klebestreifen, nach oben und weg von der linken Kante, bis der Streifen sich zwischen Akku und Rückseite herausziehen lässt.

    • Wenn du beide Klebestreifen erfolgreich entfernt hast, überspringe die beiden nächsten Schritte und mach bei Schritt 46 weiter.

    • Wenn einer der Klebestreifen unter dem Akku gerissen ist und nicht entfernt werden konnte, mach mit dem nächsten Schritt weiter.

im so confused, with the whole battery thing, do you use the same battery? or a new on? because the tabs i saw how u had to pull them off. will the battery will work without the glue tabs?

Kaylie McClain - Antwort

You can absolutely re-use your old battery, particularly if it's in good condition and holds a charge. You should replace the adhesive strips; there's a link to instructions a few steps below. The battery will work without the adhesive strips, but may rattle around inside your phone.

Jeff Suovanen -

Wenn Reste der Klebestreifen den Akku an der Rückseite festhalten, erhitze einen iOpener oder nutze einen Haartrockner, um das Gehäuse direkt hinter dem Akku zu erhitzen.
  • Wenn Reste der Klebestreifen den Akku an der Rückseite festhalten, erhitze einen iOpener oder nutze einen Haartrockner, um das Gehäuse direkt hinter dem Akku zu erhitzen.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Führe eine Plastikkarte vom Gehäuserand zwischen den Akku und die Rückseite.
  • Führe eine Plastikkarte vom Gehäuserand zwischen den Akku und die Rückseite.

  • Achte darauf, die Karte so flach wie möglich zu halten, um nicht den Akku zu biegen. Dies könnte ihn beschädigen und gefährliche Chemikalien freisetzen.

  • Drücke die Karte weiter rein, um den ganzen Kleber zu lösen.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Wenn du den kompletten Kleber entfernt hast kannst du den Akku leicht aus dem iPhone nehmen.
  • Wenn du den kompletten Kleber entfernt hast kannst du den Akku leicht aus dem iPhone nehmen.

  • Folge dieser Anleitung, um die Klebestreifen beim Wiedereinbau des Akkus zu ersetzen.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Entferne jegliches Band, was die linke obere Schraube der Rückkamera bedeckt. Entferne jegliches Band, was die linke obere Schraube der Rückkamera bedeckt.
  • Entferne jegliches Band, was die linke obere Schraube der Rückkamera bedeckt.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Entferne die folgenden Kreuzschlitz #00 Schrauben von der Abdeckung der Rückkamera:
  • Entferne die folgenden Kreuzschlitz #00 Schrauben von der Abdeckung der Rückkamera:

    • Eine 1,5 mm Schraube

    • Eine 2,1 mm Schraube

Kommentar hinzufügen

Entferne die Abdeckung von der Rückkamera. Entferne die Abdeckung von der Rückkamera.
  • Entferne die Abdeckung von der Rückkamera.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Entferne vorsichtig das Ösenkabel der Antenne aus dem Gehäuse. Entferne vorsichtig das Ösenkabel der Antenne aus dem Gehäuse.
  • Entferne vorsichtig das Ösenkabel der Antenne aus dem Gehäuse.

Anyone know what the Antenna Interconnect does? I replaced my rear housing with a clear plastic one I ordered from someone off DHGate, and they didn't have the screw mount for that interconnect, so I wasn't able to re-attach it. I couldn't figure out what it does, and the phone seems to work without putting that screw back in. I'm suspicious that bracket must do SOMETHING, right?

ben - Antwort

Just conjecturing but it has a capacitor on it and must connect a transmitter chip to an antenna. Your phone would work without it but I would expect its range would be reduced.

Doug Whyte - Antwort

Entferne die Rückkamera aus dem iPhone. Entferne die Rückkamera aus dem iPhone.
  • Entferne die Rückkamera aus dem iPhone.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Entferne die einzelne 1,2 mm Kreuzschlitz #00 Schraube, die die Abdeckung des Kamerablitzes befestigt.
  • Entferne die einzelne 1,2 mm Kreuzschlitz #00 Schraube, die die Abdeckung des Kamerablitzes befestigt.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Entferne die Abdeckung des Kamersblitzes aus dem Gehäuse. Entferne die Abdeckung des Kamersblitzes aus dem Gehäuse.
  • Entferne die Abdeckung des Kamersblitzes aus dem Gehäuse.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Entferne die beiden 2,2 mm Kreuzschlitz #00 Schrauben, die die Klammer des Power Buttons befestigen.
  • Entferne die beiden 2,2 mm Kreuzschlitz #00 Schrauben, die die Klammer des Power Buttons befestigen.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Nutze die Spitze eines Spudgers, um den Blitz und das Mikrofon vorsichtig aus ihren Vertiefungen im Gehäuse zu heben. Wenn du auf viel Kleber stößt kannst du auch eine Pinzette nehmen, um die Komponenten zu lösen. Wenn du auf viel Kleber stößt kannst du auch eine Pinzette nehmen, um die Komponenten zu lösen.
  • Nutze die Spitze eines Spudgers, um den Blitz und das Mikrofon vorsichtig aus ihren Vertiefungen im Gehäuse zu heben.

  • Wenn du auf viel Kleber stößt kannst du auch eine Pinzette nehmen, um die Komponenten zu lösen.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Beginne am Ende des Anschlusses, das Kabel von Blitz, Mikrofon und Power Button aus dem Gehäuse zu ziehen. Wenn du weiterziehst, sei besonders bei den schmalen Enden mit den Komponenten sehr vorsichtig. Entferne das Kabel der Baueinheit aus dem iPhone.
  • Beginne am Ende des Anschlusses, das Kabel von Blitz, Mikrofon und Power Button aus dem Gehäuse zu ziehen.

  • Wenn du weiterziehst, sei besonders bei den schmalen Enden mit den Komponenten sehr vorsichtig.

  • Entferne das Kabel der Baueinheit aus dem iPhone.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Greife den Power Button an der Metallleiste, um ihn aus dem Gehäuse zu ziehen. Der Power Button wird von einem Klebering gehalten, ziehe vorsichtig, um diesen nicht zu zerreißen.
  • Greife den Power Button an der Metallleiste, um ihn aus dem Gehäuse zu ziehen.

  • Der Power Button wird von einem Klebering gehalten, ziehe vorsichtig, um diesen nicht zu zerreißen.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Entferne folgende drei Kreuzschlitz #00 Schrauben, die die Klammer des Lautstärkekabels befestigen:
  • Entferne folgende drei Kreuzschlitz #00 Schrauben, die die Klammer des Lautstärkekabels befestigen:

    • Zwei 2,3 mm Schrauben

      • Das Gewinde der rechten Schraube ist nicht so lang wie das der linken Schraube.

    • Eine 1,8 mm Schraube

Kommentar hinzufügen

Ziehe die Sperrtaste und die Klammer der Lautstärkeregler vom Gehäuse weg, um an die Abdeckungen der Regler zu gelangen. Ziehe die Sperrtaste und die Klammer der Lautstärkeregler vom Gehäuse weg, um an die Abdeckungen der Regler zu gelangen. Ziehe die Sperrtaste und die Klammer der Lautstärkeregler vom Gehäuse weg, um an die Abdeckungen der Regler zu gelangen.
  • Ziehe die Sperrtaste und die Klammer der Lautstärkeregler vom Gehäuse weg, um an die Abdeckungen der Regler zu gelangen.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Ziehe vom Ende des Steckers ausgehend das Kabel der Lautstärkeregler aus dem Gehäuse. Sei vorsichtig, wenn du an den dünnen Teilen ziehst. Entferne das Kabel der Lautstärkeregler aus dem Gehäuse.
  • Ziehe vom Ende des Steckers ausgehend das Kabel der Lautstärkeregler aus dem Gehäuse.

    • Sei vorsichtig, wenn du an den dünnen Teilen ziehst.

  • Entferne das Kabel der Lautstärkeregler aus dem Gehäuse.

J'ai remonté mes boutons et ils ne reviennent plus en place. Ils restent enfoncés. Aie-je oublié une étape?

Julien Deroy - Antwort

Ziehe die Lautstärkeregler an der Metallleiste aus dem Gehäuse. Die Buttons sind mit einer Klebedichtung am Gehäuse befestigt, sei vorsichtig, damit du die Membran nicht zerreißt. Die Buttons sind mit einer Klebedichtung am Gehäuse befestigt, sei vorsichtig, damit du die Membran nicht zerreißt.
  • Ziehe die Lautstärkeregler an der Metallleiste aus dem Gehäuse.

    • Die Buttons sind mit einer Klebedichtung am Gehäuse befestigt, sei vorsichtig, damit du die Membran nicht zerreißt.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Entferne folgende vier Kreuzschlitz #00 Schrauben, die den Lautsprecher befestigen:
  • Entferne folgende vier Kreuzschlitz #00 Schrauben, die den Lautsprecher befestigen:

    • Zwei 2,9 mm Schrauben

    • Zwei 2,3 mm Schrauben

Kommentar hinzufügen

Entferne mit der Spitze eines Spudgers die Halterung des Antennenschaltungkabels aus der Einfassung auf dem Lautsprecher. Entferne mit der Spitze eines Spudgers die Halterung des Antennenschaltungkabels aus der Einfassung auf dem Lautsprecher.
  • Entferne mit der Spitze eines Spudgers die Halterung des Antennenschaltungkabels aus der Einfassung auf dem Lautsprecher.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Entferne den Lautsprecher aus dem iPhone. Entferne den Lautsprecher aus dem iPhone. Entferne den Lautsprecher aus dem iPhone.
  • Entferne den Lautsprecher aus dem iPhone.

After reassembling the whole phone the speaker did not work anymore. I did reconnect the antenna properly (I think), but I might have screwed up the underlying flatcable. Does somebody have any idea what might be the cause of the speaker not working anymore?

Bart Spiering - Antwort

Entferne die beiden 1,6 mm Kreuzschlitz #00 Schrauben, die den Vibrationsmotor am Gehäuse befestigen.
  • Entferne die beiden 1,6 mm Kreuzschlitz #00 Schrauben, die den Vibrationsmotor am Gehäuse befestigen.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Entferne den Vibrationsmotor aus dem iPhone. Entferne den Vibrationsmotor aus dem iPhone.
  • Entferne den Vibrationsmotor aus dem iPhone.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Entferne die beiden 3,1 mm Kreuzschlitz #00 Schrauben, die die Halterung des Lightning Ports befestigen.
  • Entferne die beiden 3,1 mm Kreuzschlitz #00 Schrauben, die die Halterung des Lightning Ports befestigen.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Entferne die Halterung des Lightning Ports. Entferne die Halterung des Lightning Ports.
  • Entferne die Halterung des Lightning Ports.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Entferne die einzelne 3,6 mm Kreuzschlitz #00 Zapfenschraube von der Mikrophonklammer.
  • Entferne die einzelne 3,6 mm Kreuzschlitz #00 Zapfenschraube von der Mikrophonklammer.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Entferne die Mikrophonklammer aus dem iPhone. Entferne die Mikrophonklammer aus dem iPhone.
  • Entferne die Mikrophonklammer aus dem iPhone.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Entferne die verbliebenen 6 Kreuzschlitz #00 Schrauben von der Lightning Connector Einheit:
  • Entferne die verbliebenen 6 Kreuzschlitz #00 Schrauben von der Lightning Connector Einheit:

    • Zwei 3,1 mm Zapfenschrauben

    • Zwei 1,7 mm Schrauben

    • Zwei 1,5 mm Schrauben

Kommentar hinzufügen

Löse mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers das Kabel der Lightning Connector Einheit leicht aus dem Gehäuse. Löse mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers das Kabel der Lightning Connector Einheit leicht aus dem Gehäuse. Löse mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers das Kabel der Lightning Connector Einheit leicht aus dem Gehäuse.
  • Löse mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers das Kabel der Lightning Connector Einheit leicht aus dem Gehäuse.

Seriously, you'll mess up your flex cable this way.

I suggest starting on the top left where the circle is. Use an utility knife / cutter to get beneath the cable and start prying from there.

Use a hair dryer to get the adhesive a bit looser ;)

Didier Daniel - Antwort

Yeah, top left corner is better place to start peeling. I snapped my cable a little at first, just where the speaker connector wiring goes, and there goes my speaker functionality... I managed to keep the rest of the cable intact though proceeding from top left. And I used a lot of hairdryer.

edriskus - Antwort

Ziehe vorsichtig die Lightning Connector Einheit nach oben, weg von den Schraubenösen des Vibrationsmotors und Lautsprechers. Ziehe vorsichtig die Lightning Connector Einheit nach oben, weg von den Schraubenösen des Vibrationsmotors und Lautsprechers.
  • Ziehe vorsichtig die Lightning Connector Einheit nach oben, weg von den Schraubenösen des Vibrationsmotors und Lautsprechers.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Nutze das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um den Teil des Lightning Connectors an der Einheit hochzuhebeln und mehr Kleber zu lösen. Nutze das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um den Teil des Lightning Connectors an der Einheit hochzuhebeln und mehr Kleber zu lösen.
  • Nutze das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um den Teil des Lightning Connectors an der Einheit hochzuhebeln und mehr Kleber zu lösen.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Nutze die Spitze eines Spudgers, um den Mikrophonteil der Einheit aus der Vertiefung im Gehäuse zu lösen. Nutze die Spitze eines Spudgers, um den Mikrophonteil der Einheit aus der Vertiefung im Gehäuse zu lösen.
  • Nutze die Spitze eines Spudgers, um den Mikrophonteil der Einheit aus der Vertiefung im Gehäuse zu lösen.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Nutze die Spitze eines Spudgers, um vorsichtig zwischen dem Lightning Connector und der Kopfhörerbuchse unter die Einheit zu fahren und den letzten Kleber zu lösen. Nutze die Spitze eines Spudgers, um vorsichtig zwischen dem Lightning Connector und der Kopfhörerbuchse unter die Einheit zu fahren und den letzten Kleber zu lösen.
  • Nutze die Spitze eines Spudgers, um vorsichtig zwischen dem Lightning Connector und der Kopfhörerbuchse unter die Einheit zu fahren und den letzten Kleber zu lösen.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Nutze die Spitze eines Spudgers, um die Kopfhörerbuchse aus ihrer Vertiefung im Gehäuse zu leiten. Entferne die Lightning Connector Einheit aus dem iPhone. Entferne die Lightning Connector Einheit aus dem iPhone.
  • Nutze die Spitze eines Spudgers, um die Kopfhörerbuchse aus ihrer Vertiefung im Gehäuse zu leiten.

  • Entferne die Lightning Connector Einheit aus dem iPhone.

I removed the Lightning connector cable assembly, but it does not stay connected to new rear case that I added it to. Is there any recommended tape/adhesive to solve this issue?

Angelo Mastrella - Antwort

Entferne die einzelne 1,7 mm Kreuzschlitz #00 Schraube, die den SIM Auswurfhebel befestigt.
  • Entferne die einzelne 1,7 mm Kreuzschlitz #00 Schraube, die den SIM Auswurfhebel befestigt.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Entferne den SIM Auswurfhebel aus dem iPhone. Entferne den SIM Auswurfhebel aus dem iPhone.
  • Entferne den SIM Auswurfhebel aus dem iPhone.

It's probably not even worth mentioning since it's fairly obvious, but for me to complete my rear case replacement, I had to transfer three bumper-like brackets from the side edges of the old case. These brackets help hold the screen in place so they are pretty important. Six screws total. Two of the brackets were on the left and one on the right.

Additionally, there are three mesh screens behind the holes for the two microphones and the bottom speaker that weren't on my replacement case. For optimal sound performance, it's probably prudent to move these to the new case as well.

Vern Hart - Antwort

Abschluss

Arbeite die Schritte in umgekehrter Reihenfolge ab, um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen.

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Sam Lionheart

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My first time inside an iPhone. I slipped on some icy steps and bent my phone. Luckily it bent on the battery side and still worked except for the 'down' volume button. That wouldn't move because the housing was so deformed. Took my time and followed the guide carefully, it was absolutely fine. Took an hour and three quarters.

nbuchan - Antwort

My issue is the glue on the battery! i destroyed my first battery saying to remove has anyone got any advice on this? thanks

laurenceleonard - Antwort

I failed with both battery pull tabs, but I successfully used a microwaveable wheat bag in place of the iOpener, then carefully slid a store loyalty card under the battery. It took a bit of doing but I just took my time. The back of the battery was a bit bubbled but it still works fine.

nbuchan -

I successfully replaced my rear case but upon completion I've noticed my power and volume buttons are no longer clicky in fact they've lost all springiness. I feel like they are constantly touching the button contacts and have yet to turn the phone back on anyone have any ideas as to how to fix this?

csens92 - Antwort

In the middle of the volume buttons itself, on the inside is a round plate glued, you have to replace this on the new volume buttons

clbr -

Yeah the buttons themselves have a tiny piece of circular metal that meets a tiny piece of black (carbon?) on the flex button. They are TINY but if there is no black speck OR if the speck is off-center, then you won't have any successful clicking. When it works, it works. There's not mistaking. it's a very simple but tiny mechanical issue with buttons. But it's what makes them so nice.

CircuitChip -

Check if the circular metal piece on the button is in place. Check if the circular black rubber is in place on the flex cable. Also check if you put the rubber gasket around the button back.

Didier Daniel -

i successfully replaced my case but after i finished my speaker doesnt work anymore, does anyone know how to fix this? the earpiece speaker works but the bottom one beside the charger doesnt

Moe - Antwort

I was having th same issue. I took my phone apart and I pressed down harder on the connector at steps 22. This fixed my problem.

Vitaly Strelkov -

On the bottom of your speaker you have gold contacts. See if they are in place and that they touch the gold on the lightning flex cable.

Didier Daniel -

Awesome guide! Now if you're doing what I'm doing which was a full blown part drop into a fresh frame - you still need to get the bottom grills, headphone plastic, speaker dampers and all that fun stuff with tweezers. Also to note, if you got a fresh stock frame, you'll also need to transfer the side-frame LCD stabilizers. 6 screws and 3 pieces but you still need to consider if your frame has everything in them before you start dropping the charge flex back in. Otherwise this is a complete teardown!

To harp on stock frames - they're great but I had to file my sim slot in order for my sim tray to fit. Also the buttons that come with stock frames do NOT have the extra padding to connect with the actual button on the flex. So unless you have the original button, you'll need to make sure your buttons have a solid click. If they don't, they're missing the tiny mid-connector.

CircuitChip - Antwort

Yep, correct. Tweezers and an utility knife / cutter are your best friend here.

Didier Daniel -

Simply amazing! Used this guide to replace the wifi antenna and flex cover and after about an hour voila', it works! As others may have found, I believe the real problem is the small piece of insulation on the wifi antenna itself. Mine was stuck to the upper glass side of the case whereas the new one had it affixed to the antenna itself. Take your time and label each size screw as you go along and you'll do fine (I simply labeled a piece of scotch tape and placed the screw on it).

bobwojcik - Antwort

Okay tiny problem, I put it back together and didn't notice any problems at first. But when I made a call the other person could hear me, but I couldn't hear anything. Apon further inspection I noticed neither camera is functioning, the battery won't charge more than 15%, and no sound will play from my phone. Does anyone have any advice for fixing this?

Lauren May - Antwort

Check the header plugs are in correctly. Some are harder to locate in than others.....

Malc -

Thanks so much for putting this up and making it available. A bit fiddly, even for an ex cell transmitter repairer, but got there. Found it good to have a sheet of paper at each important step, draw a sketch of item and lay screws in position they need to be when reassembling.

Terrific.

Malc - Antwort

After finishing everything, whenever I want to plug in my phone it says that the cable is not safe and won't charge. What should I do?

hedgefundtradingbull - Antwort

Does the new housing fit in a case just as well as the original housing? I replaced an iPhone 5 housing once and it didn't fit in the case; it was too tall. I didn't want to replace my iPhone 6 housing unless I know that it will fit in my case the same.

Bobby - Antwort

Great guide. I completed it, seemingly without a hitch. but now the phone won't power up. Either that or the display isn't working now. I checked the battery cable and display cable and they're plugged into their sockets correctly. Curious what else I should check.

I did accidentally re-connect the battery to the logic board at one point before completing the assembly. I quickly disconnected it after realizing I had a few more steps before I was supposed to plug it in, but I wonder if I could have fried the logic board by jumping the gun.

Ryan Palmer - Antwort

Not sure if you resolved your issue yet but try turning the phone on and looking closely at the screen with a light shining on it. Often times connecting/disconnecting the screen cables with the battery still plugged in can blow something on the backlight line (normally just a filter). If that's the case you should still be able to see things on the screen if you have the proper lighting.

Josef Kisor -

This guide works great. However, be very careful when removing the lighting cable/audio jack housing. The wiring coming off of it (the flat black piece running to the right of the case) is heavily glued. I went too fast, and ended up damaging it by pulling on it too hard. It might be a good idea to warm up the back panel to loosen the adhesive prior to removing this part.

Patrick McDaniel - Antwort

Hi! Question...

To get to the Lightning port, I have to remove almost Everything, right?

As always, Great guides!!! Much love from Chile :)

Marcos Müller - Antwort

Check out the Lightning Connector Replacement guide, you only need to open the phone and then remove the speaker and Taptic engine. Best of luck!

Sam Lionheart -

Despues de cambiar la placa de carga lightening, el celular funciona pero al realizar llamadas la señal de la voz disminuye, pero al grabar audio con whats app funciona corrrectamente, no creo que sea el microfono pero que puede ser?

Matias Carrasco - Antwort

It would be useful if in teardown / repair guides like this you could indicate parts which can be transplanted straight into a new shell - for example the logic board obviously can’t come out of the old shell into a new one, but things like the power button/flash/microphone assembly can.

elf Speight - Antwort

do you need to apply fresh adhesive when putting the flex cables back into place or are they in themselves adhesive?

grant pidler - Antwort

YEEHAWW!!! Complete! Take your time. And pay close attention to any step that has many comments. Only issue I had was the standoff screw and its piggyback screw. Don’t mix up the 1.7 mm piggyback screw with the other 1.7 mm screws. They just wont thread in very well. :)

-Mike C.

Loraine Castro - Antwort

I did everything as showed on the guide but the screen won’t light up now.

What might be some of problems. Also, pretty stupid from me, but didn’t back this up….how do I come about it now?

Gerald - Antwort

Same with me, did you managed to fix it?

eveduardo98 -

My son smashed his screen and then because the phone lost its rigidity it bent in his pocket. I bought a broken phone with a good screen and case and swapped the innards (I left the buttons and cables as I assumed they’d be alright in the broken phone). And it worked! One good phone for a lot lot cheaper than any alternative. Brilliant guide. Thanks!

krisology - Antwort

Just completed replacing the back housing and i was really surprised about how easy it was, so long as you follow these steps and you lay all the parts out on a piece of paper so you don’t muddle them up. If you do this you will be fine.

thomasnufc - Antwort

I don’t know if the battery is punctured or not , but the battery seems to have bent a bit when I was trying to get it out how will I determine if the battery has punctured but the phone still works fine tho

bash - Antwort

@bashman2020 Don’t re-use any battery that you’ve removed in this way, even if you think it’s only slightly bent. It’s not worth the risk, especially with new batteries being as cheap as they are. Just replace the battery and recycle the old one.

Jeff Suovanen -

The antennas, are they connected to the body? Their placement seems to be on the right side of the case ?!

Amir-Ali Adle - Antwort

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