Fixing things is fun. I almost always learn something. When a repair is successful, I really enjoy the reward of turning a piece of junk back into something that is useful.
Hilfe
I fix computers, bicycles and electronics. Sometimes I even combine these and fix eBikes!
Before retirement, I was a software developer in Silicon Valley. I worked for some Internet startup companies that cratered, and others that did okay.
Fixing things is fun. I almost always learn something. When a repair is successful, I really enjoy the reward of turning a piece of junk back into something that is useful.
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Yes, an SSD will work. There’s even a repair guide (authored by someone else) explaining how to install a new hard drive or SSD. iMac Intel 20" EMC 2105 and 2118 Hard Drive Replacement
My only experience is with EMC2105, not EMC2118 (I inherited EMC2118 from an existing guide that I leveraged). I wonder what would happen if you downgraded your firmware to an iMac 4,1 and then performed the CPU upgrade procedure. That might work if the firmware installer detects the CPU and does some CPU-specific setup. On the other hand, that would be risky as it might brick your system. I’d probably just live with the slightly slower original iMac 5,1 CPU (T7400 at 2.16 GHz) unless you feel lucky or want to contribute to the collective knowledge.
A hair dryer will work as well as a heat gun. Both blow hot air, which will melt solder at between 200F and 350F, depending on the type of solder used.
Mine also has a 4-pin cable on the side that also has to be detached
As I said at the start of this guide, as far as I can tell the T7600 is the fastest compatible processor for this Socket M laptop. In your particular case, the T7800 processor is not electrically compatible because it is Socket P.
I’m not sure why it is necessary to remove the RAM. As far as I can tell, it can remain in place during this procedure.
I can confirm that it is possible to remove the front glass using fingernails rather than suction cups. It isn’t easy, but if you try you should be able to pry off the glass.
I did this twice: once at the beginning of the procedure and once again at the end, when I realized that a big pice of lint was trapped under the glass.
There are two small plastic positioning pin holes on the right of the optical drive. When you replace the drive, make sure to align the pins with the holes as you slide the drive back into place.
There are two positioning pins stick up from the back of the computer. When you replace the fan, make sure that the pins slide into the corresponding holes in the back of the fan. The pins are at approximately 10:00 and 7:00 positions (where the center of the fan rotor is the center of a clock face).
Not having braid, I tried my solder sucker. It still took a very long time to clear the holes.
I had success with a different technique. Leave the existing wires in place. Unsolder them from the old battery, and solder them onto the new battery. On my battery the wires were attached with a solder ball and no other mechanical connection (e.g. wrapping) so they came off easily. The wires are tiny and closely spaced, so take care not to short the battery.
If you go this route, I recommend unsoldering the outside wires first and then do the inside one. When installing the new battery, it should be easier to connect the middle wire first, and then do the outer wires. Again, take care not to short out the battery connections!
Although they are close, the danger is no worse than in soldering directly to the motherboard.
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