Einleitung
Diese Anleitung zeigt dir, wie du eine defekte rechte Joy-Con Schiene austauschen kannst.
In der Switch sind JIS-Schrauben verbaut, zur Not passen aber auch Bits für Kreuzschlitzschrauben. Sei aber sehr vorsichtig und beschädige die Schraubenköpfe nicht. Die Bits von iFixit können auch für JIS-Schrauben verwendet werden.
Hinweis: Wenn du das Abschirmblech ausgebaut hast, musst du die Wärmeleitpaste zwischen der Oberfläche und dem Kühlkörper ersetzen. Normale Wärmeleitpaste ist nicht geeignet, größere Spalten zu überbrücken, der beste Ersatz ist K5 Pro viskose Wärmeleitpaste.
Hinweis: Diese Anleitung und das von uns verkaufte Ersatzteil ist für das originale Nintendo Switch Modell von 2017 geeignet, aber auch für das neuere Modell von 2019 (Modellnummer HAC-001 und HAC-001(-01)).
Was du brauchst
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Drücke und halte den kleinen runden Knopf auf der Rückseite des Joy Con Controllers.
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Halte den Knopf weiterhin gedrückt und schiebe den Controller nach oben.
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Schiebe den Joy Con nach oben ganz aus dem Gerät heraus.
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In diesem Schritt verwendetes Werkzeug:Magnetic Project Mat$19.95
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Entferne die vier 6,3 mm langen Tri-Point Y00 Schrauben von der Rückabdeckung.
I think my screws are stripped, any way to get them out?
I hear that using a rubber band can help? Not 100% sure on that though.
Pifase -
My top 2 screws are stripped, one into triangle, the other circle, rather than triangle spokes.
This happened when I replaced the micro-sd card slot, which turned out to have replaced the broken one with another one that turns out to be broken. I need to fix the fact that when I reapplied the back cover, the vent was misaligned.
I had huge problems removing the bottom two screws. I continued with the next steps and lifted the plastic shell as much as possible while using the screwdriver and it became an ease.
y0 works best. Press HARD at beginning then ease off to finish.
I haven't tried neither solutions that I am gonna propose here but
1. Poor some Isopropyl Alcohol, one small drop will do, get a piece of cotton (not any clothing) and dip it in the Isopropyl Alcohol, apply and then try to get a grip with tweezers and turn it out
OR (I do not reccomend it since it can cause huge damage if done wrong)
2. Grab a small drill and drill through the screw. Keep in mind; the screw is very small.
If you do one of these and it goes wrong, I am not responsible for that.
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Nimm einen JIS 000 Schraubendreher oder ein Ph000 Bit von iFixit und entferne folgende Schrauben, mit denen die Rückabdeckung befestigt ist:
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Eine einzelne 2,5 mm Schraube an der Oberkante des Gerätes.
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Zwei 2,5 mm lange Schrauben an der Unterkante des Gerätes
Hey guys, I tried removing the upper screw and it won't go out(neither will it go in) any tips how to fix this?
Thanks
The screw boss might be stripped out. Has the device been taken apart before? If you can unscrew it a little bit to get the screw to peek out, maybe try and grab it with some pliers as a last-ditch effort.
I have the same problem. The JIS 000 tool works great on the joy con rails per step 5 but refuses to turn the bottom two 2.5 mm screws as in step 4. These bottom screws are noticeably smaller than the screws as in step 5. The JIS 000 does not get down into these screws. Hopefully they haven’t been stripped by the wrong tool. So is there a JIS tool that is smaller than 000? I’m stuck at this point…
We used the JIS 3.0mm screwdriver for both top and bottom screws and it worked
Fun fact: these screw into little plastic tabs that stick out of the rear panel. Apparently those tabs are fragile and easy to just break off…
If the screw is turning but not coming out, the plastic tab that it screws into is probably damaged or broken. You’ll need to try to pry the screw out with tweezers as you unscrew it. It is not the end of the world if you can’t screw these back in during reassembly.
this screws are way too fragile and way too small so be careful when taking them off dont use much force and unscrew also one of them fell somewhere and spent 30 mins searching for it
PH000 will work if you don’t have JIS000. The large IFIXIT kit has both and I lost JIS000. Just be very careful as you can strip the heads when removing or inserting easier.
One thing that worked pretty well for me with the screws not coming out is slightly prying on the back cover to put them under some tension
I just came here to also confirm and say thanks to Florian for the tip. This saved me a lot of time and frustration.
Quick note, these screws are not magnetic. A magnetic screwdriver will hold onto any of the others safely, but you need to be careful not to drop these ones in particular.
These would just keep rotating and not come out. What worked was, as Florian Kraupa suggested, i slid a plastic pick just between the 2 shells near the screws to prise it open slightly, then unscrewed and out they came. They're the smallest screws I've ever almost not seen before, so be careful with them.
Der Tausch von Akku (separate Anleitung) und Lüfter ging einfach vonstatten. Die Anleitung ist echt gut und leicht verständlich. Man sollte aber gewohnt sein, mit extrem kleinen Anschlüssen, Schrauben und Platinen zu arbeiten, da alles da drin recht klein ausgelegt ist und keine Toleranz für grobschlächtiges Arbeiten erlaubt! Meine Switch ist nun wieder wie neu :) - Danke iFixit!
The swapping of battery (separate instruction) and fan was fairly manageable. The instructions are easy to understand. One should be used to handle with extremely finnicky connectors, screws and circuits as the components are really small and do not allow any tolerance for rough handling at all! My Switch is good as new again :) - Thank you iFixit!
My original switch bought on launch day does not have any of these screws. I'm guessing they fell out since the plastic tabs they attach to are broken. FYI, in case anyone else does not have these screws...
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In der Mitte auf jeder Seite des Gerätes befindet sich eine 3,8 mm JIS 000 Schraube. Nimm einen JIS 000 Schraubendreher/Bit oder ein Original PH000 Bit von iFixit und drehe sie beide heraus.
I tried my JIS 000 on Step 5 and was unable to get the screw to budge. It’s partner from the other side came right out with no trouble. Don’t really want to narf up the screw, so I bailed out. Anyone else have this issue?
Could just be torqued down a bit more! I’d recommend making sure the driver bit seats nicely into the screw, apply some downward pressure, and slowly twist to try and back it out. Good luck!
Yeah I’m having this exact issue. Screw stripped and now I’m stuck. Wish I hadn’t even started.
What worked for me here was a Phillips 000, not a JIS 000
My kit only has two screwdriver heads! The package was open when I received it!
I had this issue as well. Screw was irreparably stripped. If you can get every other screw out, just keep applying pressure with a flat head screw driver right above the stripped screw and try to break the plastic piece holding onto the screw. It's a very minor invisible bit of damage that will allow you to continue the repair.
after getting all the other screws off I just hinged the back part away and it snapped off neatly where the rusted screw is. not the best solution but it worked.
Steve T -
One of my screws was SUPER attached too, but after following a bit noticed the one other in the left that got out nicely, had the plastic tab broken already! So I went ahead and broke the other tab too. So the two side screws are now holding nothing. But I think it will work thanks to the other 4 or 5 screws. Too bad!
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Klappe den Aufsteller auf der Rückseite des Gerätes mit den Fingern heraus.
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Nimm einen JIS 000 Schraubendreher/Bit oder ein Original PH000 Bit von iFixit und entferne die 1,6 mm JIS 000 Schraube in der Vertiefung für den Aufsteller.
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Klappe den Aufsteller zu.
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Öffne die Cartridge-Klappe.
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Hebe die Rückabdeckung von der Unterseite des Gerätes her hoch und entferne sie.
How to remove micro SD port?
Pull straight up, press back into place when closing back up.
This step is missing in this guide. Here are the steps from another guide:
Step 9) Nintendo Switch rechte Joy-Con Sensorschiene austauschen
Step 10) Nintendo Switch rechte Joy-Con Sensorschiene austauschen
When I lifted up the back cover, it kind of stuck near the headphone port (even with cartridge slot open). But it wasn't a screw or anything and I kind of carefully pulled and wiggled and the cover came off ok
+1, there is definitely an extra clip there on my day 1 switch
I wasn't so careful here and found out during reassembly that I accidentally broke off the clip with the screw hole on the top of the back cover (the clip fell off the device when I turned it over), so I can't put the top screw back in, but oh well at least the back cover is still affixed to the device otherwise
If you're having trouble getting the back cover to fit during reassembly, check to make sure you don't have an SD card inserted in the slot. It will get in the way.
If you're like me, you might have inserted the SD card to verify your SD reader was working again after doing step 9 reassembly. If so, remove it before proceeding.
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Nimm einen JIS 000 Schraubendreher/Bit oder ein Original PH000 Bit von iFixit und entferne die einzelne 3,1 mm JIS000-Schraube, mit der der microSD-Kartenleser befestigt ist.
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In diesem Schritt verwendetes Werkzeug:Tweezers$4.99
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Hebe den microSD-Kartenleser mit den Fingern oder einer Pinzette nach oben vom Gerät weg, löse ihn ab und entferne ihn.
Yes. The reverse is not so simple- you can’t see what you’re doing when you attempt to reconnect and it only takes one small error to completely bend the contacts on the connector. Very delicate.
if you very gently remove the foam pad sticker, you can at least see better how it lines up and can feel your way to a degree… then you can stick the pad back in. The pad seems pretty critical in keeping things in place once reassembled.
Definitely agree about not sticking the foam pad back on until the new SD card slot is connected. Saved a lot of headache. Great walkthrough and easy repair!
Tried several times to replace this SD reader module. As mentioned above, the issue is aligning the connectors together. It appears the foam tape is being used to hold the connection in place. (assuming you can make a viable connection) I am rather surprised at this design. In my experience, mylar ribbon cables like this usually slide into a small PC mounted socket. It appears Nintendo went the cheap route here. This design is prone to failure since it does not enable a positive connection - at least from what I can see.
I found it easier to connect it without the black foam pad so I could see and than add the foam pad over it. It was super easy and I an I 33 Mom doing this for my son. Was well worth the money for the kit saved us almost 100 bucks
Had my son follow this guide to fix his own switch where the ad card reader didn't work. And he did. Great instructions!!!! Thanks a million!
The only difficult part of following this guide is connecting the new sd card reader into the poorly designed motherboard connector. Its quite possible the sd card reader that came in the console wasnt broken at all.
The repair kit works just as advertised and even comes with stickers.
I’m still getting error 2002-2054 even after replacing memory card reader module. Thanks, Nintendo!
My switch won’t read my microSD card after I reassembled it (error 2016-0641) please help!
Tip: Keep the old SD reader piece loosely attached while you line up and gently press the new SD component into the connector on the motherboard. Once the new piece is snug, then carefully remove the old piece keeping the sticky foam in place.
I am a middle-aged mom with absolutely no special tech skills and I easily followed the directions and successfully fixed the broken SD drive. ifixit is the best!
Ah good! i have more confidence now in doing it once you said you're a middle age mom with no experience
I missed this bit about reconnecting the SD card reader under the foam pad and didn’t realise until my son pointed out a data storage problem?. All fixed in about 5 minutes taking advice from the replacing the SD card reader fix, especially removing the foam pad from the connector to better see and feel what you’re doing. All sorted!
Awesome guide! Very easy to do with the supplied kit
Tank you very much, and by tank I mean M1 Abrams, jokes apart easy and simple to follow
Thanks for the guide, I was struggling to find a solution, replaced more sd cards, before I stumbled upon this post. The Switch of my children works flawless again!
This helped me to reseat my SD card reader ribbon cable. I was getting the 2016-0641 error and no card work. A drop had dislodged the cable partially. And yes remove the foam pad gently to properly connect the cable. You can reuse the foam pad.
For anyone who ends up bending the pins like I did while trying to reseat the microSD card reader…
I suggest gently placing very thin tweezers (like the curved ones in the Pro Tool Kit) in the gap and very, very gently pressing them back into alignment. Took a little effort but I was able to realign them enough to sit it in place and have it later working after reassembling the console.
When reassembling, note the alignment pins in the left and bottom notches before tightening the screw
Super gemakkelijk te installeren met behulp van deze zeer duidelijke handleiding (met dank aan de vertalers!)
Wel even goed opletten op de aansluiting op het moederbord is zeer fragiel.
It is key to remember most out of the box issues with the SD card reader, do not require a replacement part and can be solved with disconnecting then re-connecting the reader at the motherboard.
Only when a simple re-seating at the connector doesn't work should you buy the replacement part.
I bought the kit and followed the directions. I plucked the black rubber foam off with a pair of eyelash tweezers. Putting the tiny screws back in place also was made easier using the tweezers. As for placing the SD card in place I think I got a bit lucky. I lined it up and gently pressed until it simply went into place. I do believe being gentle is the key there. But it went in and I put it back together. The deconstructing and reconstructing is what took the longest for me at least. I turned it on to verify it worked and then unpowered the unit and inserted the card. The system recognized and update right away and did it and then recognized the card! Just what I need for 20 something dollars. Son is happy and back to gaming.
Thank you for postingthis fix. The original sd card reader had come unplugged from the motherboard, so replacement reader will be a spare.
Anybody found a way to ensure the sd reader stays in place?
It was my first time repairing a Switch and the fan replacement wasn't too hard, but unfortunately I think there should be a better warning about the SD card connector because I damaged it while trying to put it back in. I couldn't hear any click and it didn't seem to stay put and I think I ended up applying to much force and damaging the pins.
Managed to push the connector back in with foam on, used back of plastic tool to push secure and once completed was able to use the SD port again. Brilliant little guide.
so how would you theroedictly put the old slot back on.
and how does if even work
Horrible guide, incomplete. Needs to show how to reattach the new reader but doesn't show anything. This makes it incredibly easy to bend pins that become incredibly difficult to fix. Ended up bending pins on the connector beyond repair as I didn't know what to look for or how to reattach it. Wouldn't recommend
Tried to do this, everything went smoothly I thought, but when I turn on system w SD card in the new slot, immediately freezes up the system completely until I hard shut down. Did I do something wrong?
"Draw the rest of the !@#$ing owl"
I have an issue that when I insert the SD card with the case off (to test the connection is correct), the switch reads it no problem. When I put the case back on, it no longer reads it. Anyone else experienced this?
This bullshit replacement part broke after two weeks of use, and now the connector on the board is damaged. My Switch is probably &&^&@@.
Thanks, iFixit! -
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Nimm einen JIS 000 Schraubendreher/Bit oder ein Original PH000 Bit von iFixit und entferne die sechs 3 mm JIS 000 Schrauben, mit denen das Abschirmblech am Gerät befestigt ist.
Some models have a small board in the lower left beneath the kickstand which accepts SD cards. This will have to be carefully removed with its connections popped out, then replaced after.
Yeah, that “small board” is the microSD Card reader chip, which was covered literally one step ago. All models have a microSD Card reader, that’s how game data is stored…
nin10doh -
My switch had loctite (or similar) on the bottom right screw (farthest right), ended up striping it and having to use a Dremel to cut a slot in the screw to get it out. I've heard that heat (solder gun) can be used to loosen loctite, hindsight. Only screw I found with loctite.
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In diesem Schritt verwendetes Werkzeug:Tweezers$4.99
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Ziehe das Stück Schaumstoff an der Oberkante des Gerätes nahe bei der Lüfteröffnung mit den Fingern oder einer Pinzette zurück.
My Switch (bought about two weeks after launch) seems to be missing this foam piece… Was it added later, similar to the foam piece in the left joy-con (to improve connectivity)?
It’s possible it was added to newer units! Nintendo slightly updated the internals of the Switch not too long ago.
My launch Switch also does not have this piece of foam, so it was most likely added later.
Also did not see this in my launch switch.
Me three, no foam.
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Setze einen Spudger am Rand des Gerätes unter das Abschirmblech ein.
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Heble nach oben, hebe das Abschirmblech hoch und entferne es.
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Wenn du vorsichtig bist, kannst du die rosa Wärmeleitpaste weiterverwenden. Achte beim Zusammenbau darauf, dass sie nicht schmutzig wird und einen guten Kontakt zwischen dem Kühlkörper und der Abschirmung herstellt.
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Wenn die Wärmeleitpaste ausgetauscht werden muss, dann entferne sie zuerst ganz mit Hilfe unserer Anleitung für Wärmeleitpaste und ersetze sie durch eine geeignete Paste, wie z.B. K5 Pro.
How do you know if the thermal paste needs to be replaced?
Once you remove a heatsink you must always replace thermal paste even if you had just applied it ( or add a little more) . The reason is that once heat sink is fitted, paste splits around because of pressure and only needed amount will remain. If you remove the heatsink then some paste will move so when installed again there will be spots without paste. Hope this is clear enough. In any case cost of paste is very small compared to work time and value of your equipment…..
MacTek -
When your switch starts to lag and drop FPS, if you play breath of the wild and it starts to slow down in heavy areas like the forest where you get the master sword, can i use artic mx 4 insted of the pink compound?
I’d like to know as well if a cpu thermal compound like arctic mx-4 can be used to replace the pink compound
No you shouldn't . It will spill around because it is not viscous enough and then there will be no heat transfer. As suggested by author K5 PRO is the most appropriate compound for such cases.
MacTek -
Arctic is generally only supposed to be used on bigger heat sinks like a personal computer. Its not nearly as thick or gummy compared to K5 PRO, and you should always use something that’s thicker for smaller project like a Switch/phone/tablet.
Why was this not included in the tools/equipment list? Getting to this step and now I will have to reverse and wait for yet another order to arrive. ? Very frustrated
Hi Amanda,
Thanks for bringing this up. Sorry! We inadvertently left that part out during the guide refresh. I’ll add the necessary info into the step.
I agree with Amanda, hopefully I don't lose any parts before I can get the paste. This seems like it should almost be included in this kit from what I've read about this repair. Mine certainly needs to be replaced. I feel like at the very least, this should be at the top of the guide and part order page in bold, red, all cap lettering.
Side note this is the only "issue" I've had of the 4 purchases I've made with ifixit. I recommend you guys every chance I get. I really enjoy doing these repairs with my son.
does ifixit not have an appropriate thermal paste for this step?
there is only arctic silver 5 in the kit and i would guess that that should not be used in this case.
if true, the kit is incompleteSince I couldn't find decently priced K5 I used a 0.5mm thick thermal pad and that seems to have done the trick quite well.
The Amazon link goes to a kit with 6 tubes of K5 Pro. Surely I don’t need 6 tubes… is this kit sufficient? https://a.co/d/5aU8kB7
When replacing the thermal paste, is it possible just to clean the old thermal off the back plate and top of the copper heatsink and just re-apply those areas only, without removing that copper heatsink?
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Heble den Akkustecker mit der Spudgerspitze gerade nach oben und löse ihn aus seinem Anschluss auf der Hauptplatine heraus.
be careful not to pry it off the board entirely
This was an old switch and the entire thing with the black plastic came off.. Most of the pins aren't there anymore, too.. is there a solution to that? Does soldering work?
it's probably possible, but unless you have experience with microsoldering, you'd probably be better off taking it to a local repair shop
You can use a spudger to hold down the black plastic side of this connector that is supposed to stay attached to the motherboard while using the pointy spudger as shown in order to reduce any chance of pulling the socket off the motherboard.
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Klappe den kleinen, scharnierartigen Sicherungsbügel am ZIF-Verbinder des Datenkabels zur Joy Con Sensorschiene mit einem Fingernagel, Spudger oder einem Öffnungswerkzeug hoch.
The zif connector was split when I went to replace and the cable is not seating in the broken connector. Suggestions?
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In diesem Schritt verwendetes Werkzeug:Tweezers$4.99
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Schiebe das Datenkabel der Joy Con Sensorschiene mit einer Pinzette gerade aus seinem Anschluss auf der Hauptplatine heraus.
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Nimm einen JIS 000 Schraubendreher/Bit oder ein Original PH000 Bit von iFixit und entferne die vier 3,7 mm Schrauben, mit denen die rechte Joy Con Schiene am Rahmen des Gerätes befestigt ist.
Pozidrive too?
I used a JIS 000 driver and stripped to hell one of the screws because it was over torqued in there. I had to dremel it out. Proceed with caution when using pressure to remove these screws.
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Entferne die rechte Joy Con Sensorschiene.
So, I tore the data cable, clean of the slider. How do I re-attach it? Or am I better off getting a new one?
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Vergleiche das Ersatzteil mit dem Originalteil. Möglicherweise musst du fehlende Bauteile übertragen oder Schutzfolien vom Neuteil abziehen.
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, folge den Schritten dieser Anleitung in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Entsorge deinen Elektromüll fachgerecht.
Lief die Reparatur nicht wie geplant? Probiere zunächst einige grundsätzliche Lösungen oder frage in unserem Nintendo Switch Forum nach Hilfe bei der Fehlersuche.
Vergleiche das Ersatzteil mit dem Originalteil. Möglicherweise musst du fehlende Bauteile übertragen oder Schutzfolien vom Neuteil abziehen.
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, folge den Schritten dieser Anleitung in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Entsorge deinen Elektromüll fachgerecht.
Lief die Reparatur nicht wie geplant? Probiere zunächst einige grundsätzliche Lösungen oder frage in unserem Nintendo Switch Forum nach Hilfe bei der Fehlersuche.
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13 Kommentare
Would you happen to know how to take out the screws if they’ve been stripped due to corrosion/rust? The back and site plate screws seem to have corroded and started to strip when I tried to unscrew them.
I am running into same problem now. 3 out of 4 back screws are striped
Same issue for me as well, my husband pretty much just brute strengths through them for me until I can get replacement screws. Not the most sophisticated method, but effective.
This was a wonderful guide. Its straight forward, simple to understand, and doesnt pass over any steps large or small. Thank you to your team for what you do for us all.
Do the parts exist yet to do this repair on the OLED model? The sensor rail is very slightly different from the original so just curious if there’s any ETA on when parts will start showing up for it
I did just this. Used an old switch rail in my OLED. It still works but not all the screws line up and it is a little loose, but still very functional.
Redroc -
Thank you very much for the guide. With the right tools and attention to detail, this should be a breeze for just about anyone.
Does this rail handle the connectivity of the Joycons to the Switch? My left Joycon disconnects in handheld mode, and it does it with any Joycons. I've also modded steel locks locks into my Joycon and ruled out physical issues. Disturbing the left Joycon in any way (other then properly disconnecting, of course) did not reproduce the problem. It happens randomly.
Does replacing the rail replace all associated hardware with this function?
After replacing the rail, many of the games had to redownload data. Is this an coincidence or some anti piracy thing?
Tout a fonctionné nickel, merci pour ce très bon tutoriel, j'ai remplacé le rail droit de la Switch qui reconnait désormais de nouveau le JoyCon.
Guys I thought my screws were stripped too. I turned switch vertical and put alot of force carefully and turned slow and they all came out. Now on to the left side
Kann ich diese Anleitung auch für die OLED anwenden? Habe im INet sonst leider nichts brauchbares gefunden.
Ina Barz - Antwort
backup all your sd card data i had to format mine after this tutorial and lost all my game data
JustForThisComment?ComeOn - Antwort
do not watch the video! i broke the metal shielding on my switch because they didn't mention a screw!!!
Macro Man - Antwort