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Yes that should be right. See drawing on Step 24. It's upside down in the charger case. https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/...
read my above comment. :eyes:
The BMS might be in blocking mode. Check the technical specs, you might need to set a voltage to a set of pins to activate it. usually this is done with a full charge, but might be dependent on the BMS specs. Other options… it might be just faulty or broken due to excessive heat while soldering. Take a look here: https://electronics.stackexchange.com/qu...
I charge with the two middle pins (unfused). But as long as the charging current is below the fuse rating (1A) the other two can also be used.
Already sold.
The battery has 6 holes. 2 are unused (temperature sensor needed only for original charger). Thats the ones closed so the converted battery cannot end up in a Rollei Charger that might fry/burn them. The other 4 pins are both battery out. Fused and unfused. The fused are needed to not break the motor of the camera if the film is stuck in the magazine. So for charging both pairs are be fine (as long as the charging current is lower than the 1A of the fuse). I used the two center pins (unfused) in the 3D printed case.
The temperature sensor isn’t even used by the camera. Take a look into the slot of the camera with the battery removed. There are just 4 pins. The original Rollei charger has 6 pins and uses the temperature sensor. There are aftermarket chargers (e.g. MaHa) that have a magnetic temperature sensor to not fry the battery. The problems you might have seen is the high current draw peak of the linear aperture motors (up to 4.5A)!
Currently I have two sets (Battery, Tray, Charger) on ebay for sale if s.o. is interested.
Hi Cameron, dang I don’t have a picture from below before being having the glued.
but I can describe a bit mor in detail. Take two nails and test them to get the proper length and diameter. Then take the wires and loop them just above the nail head (with the tip of the nail pointing up). Then solder it there (the head of the nail will prevent it slipping off. Then test the length by putting the nails from the bottom into the holes of the battery socket. The soldered cables should be just at the underside if the holes. If everting is fine, put the cable true the jack hole (inside out). Solder it correctly to the jack. Test polarity and then glue or press the jack hole. Put the cable inside and file the hole from the bottom with hot glue or similar.
Actually I would have a spare set available...
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