I have the 1.3L engine in an imported JDM car, if you were in USA, they only sold the Scion XB with a 1.5L engine but I think it's very similar

I used JS Asakashi C110J, which I imported from Singapore, since that was cheaper then going to the local parts store... The local shops in NZ would have sold me Ryco Z386.

I almost always use JUST UNDER 4 litres...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aK7RZjAC...

The original instructions were pretty flexible, and now after many people have edited, some of the information is a bit jumbled… One of these days I’ll come and tidy it up again but for now this information is AT-YOUR-OWN-RISK, if it brings someone a few more months or weeks of joy using their broken-computer, great, but if someone burns their house down, or their wife leaves them because of the smell - NOT MY FAULT! :)

My brother did this several times on his Asus laptop motherboard for over a year (“many” times he said) and got some extended life out of it before he was forced to replace the computer.

I recently did the procedure on an out-of-warranty GTX 780 Ti but sadly it was at a friend’s house and he only had a small toaster oven… the temperature was too hot and the capacitors begin to pop off the board like popcorn after only 8 minutes… a bit of entertainment, but no result

gg

twelvechar

The card did eventually fail, i believe around 4 months later - the guy ended up buying a new card

Anyone reading this guide in 2016 - please note that the premise is a bit flawed, you're not really "re-flowing" the solder on the circuit-board, at least that's not the part that fixes the card usually, it's a temporary expansion or contraction of the "bumps" underneath the surface-mount chips the GPU or memory modules that causes the card to work again (at least for a while) the upshot of this is that even a temperature that doesn't melt the solder can actually work for a while as well.

you can also use a junk credit card or similar, or a plastic spoon