My late 2008 Unibody MacBook LCD backlight has recently died. Note that the machine is out of warranty, and it uses LED...

I have also had this problem with several Logitech mice, including the performance MX I fixed mine by desoldering and replacing the left microswitch with another (stolen from another, broken mouse). This is reasonably straightforward if you're comfortable with soldering, it just requires quite a lot of disassembly to get to the underneath of the logic board. Alternatively, and much more simply, you can try opening up the microswitch and bending the internal spring back into shape. This is described in detail here (not my video). Hope that helps

Before the 802.11n draft was ratified, Apple had quietly been introducing the "draft n" hardware for a few years, enabling the functionality later through a driver update (source). Let's hope they have had the foresight to do the same this time around. Hopefully the teardown will reveal wi-fi hardware choices. Judging by the pic of the new MBP internals on Apple's site, it does look like the wireless components are on a removable daughter-board, so there may well be the possibility of an upgrade (3rd party or otherwise) in future.

If the button has failed altogether, you can also use RecBoot to put your phone in recovery mode. Like Brad says, while in recovery mode, if you unplug it, it will turn off after a while. To turn it back on, plug back in and use RecBoot again to bring it out of recovery mode. Not exactly an everyday solution, but should work if you want to take it apart without having to run the battery down completely. :)

Since you have torn down both the new 13" and 15" rMBPs, can you advise whether the PCIe SSD modules are cross-compatible between models (and with the mid 2013 Airs)? I.e do they use the same PCIe connector and are they the same physical size?

I would hope after much chopping and changing that Apple has finally settled on a common module design, making it easier to repair / upgrade one of the few remaining user-replaceable parts.

This guide doesn't cover installing the new vibrate switch that comes as part of a new ribbon cable assembly, so a quick couple of things to note:

1) The vibrate/silent switch on the end of the ribbon cable is secured in place by a solid metal bracket. This bracket holds the switch against the outer plastic vibrate/silent rocker. When you pull out the old ribbon cable assembly, the metal bracket will come with, it is welded on by plastic lugs on the back of the switch. Don't fear, if you have a soldering iron you can melt these away and gently pull off the old switch and ribbon cable assembly.

2) Installing the new switch/ribbon cable assembly is a bit tricky. The back of the new switch should have an adhesive pad and two fresh plastic lugs. Stick the switch onto the bracket to hold it in place and then carefully melt the plastic lugs down with the flat of the soldering iron to weld the switch in place. Be careful not to apply too much heat to the switch, and don't burn your fingers! It's pretty fiddly to hold. You will want to ensure the switch is firmly welded on, otherwise there will be some play in the vibrate switch action.