Einleitung
This guide shows how to remove and replace the bottom microphone in your iPhone 16 Pro Max.
If your iPhone has a hard time picking up your voice, or has intermittent issues, the microphone might need to be replaced.
You'll need replacement back glass adhesive to complete this repair. You'll also need a replacement microphone adhesive gasket if your new microphone doesn't come with one pre-installed.
Was du brauchst
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Unplug any cables from your iPhone.
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Hold the power and either volume buttons, and slide to power off your iPhone.
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If your screen or back glass is badly cracked, lay overlapping strips of packing tape over the glass to protect yourself and make disassembly easier.
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Use a P2 pentalobe driver to remove the two 7.4 mm-long screws on either side of the charge port.
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Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.
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In diesem Schritt verwendetes Werkzeug:iOpener$12.99
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Use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the bottom edge of the back glass until it's hot to the touch.
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Apply a suction handle to the bottom edge of the back glass.
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Pull up on the handle with strong, steady force to create a gap between the back glass and the frame.
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Insert the tip of an opening pick into the gap.
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A delicate cable connecting the back glass to the iPhone, right next to the volume up button. Don't insert your pick here to avoid slicing the cable.
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Multiple spring contacts around the perimeter of the iPhone.
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Slide the opening pick along the bottom edge to slice the adhesive.
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Leave the opening pick in the bottom-left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
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Use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the left edge of the back glass until it's hot to the touch.
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Insert a second opening pick into the bottom-left corner, close to the existing pick.
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Slide your pick along the left edge to separate the adhesive and release the metal clips.
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Leave this pick inserted in the top-left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
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Use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the top edge and top-right corner of the back glass until it's hot to the touch.
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Insert a third opening pick into the top-left corner.
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Slide the opening pick along the top edge and around the top-right corner, stopping above the volume up button.
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Leave this pick inserted to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
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Use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the right edge of the back glass until it's hot to the touch.
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Insert a fourth opening pick into the bottom-right corner.
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Slide the opening pick around the corner and up the right edge, stopping below the volume down button.
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Leave this pick inserted to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
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Swing open the back glass to the right of the iPhone to separate the remaining adhesive.
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Support the back glass with a clean, sturdy object.
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Use a tri-point Y000 driver to remove the three screws securing the battery connector cover:
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Two 1.3 mm‑long screws
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One 1.0 mm‑long screw
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Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery press connector.
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Use a tri-point Y000 driver to remove the four screws securing the back glass connector cover:
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Two 1.3 mm‑long screws
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Two 1.0 mm‑long screws
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Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the back glass connector.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three screws securing the Taptic Engine cover:
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One 2.9 mm‑long screw
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One 1.3 mm‑long screw
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One 2.4 mm‑long screw
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Use tweezers or your fingers to lift the top edge of the Taptic Engine cover.
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Once the bottom edge unlatches from the frame, remove the Taptic Engine cover.
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Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the lower assembly cable from the logic board.
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Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the two connectors near the bottom right edge of the frame.
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Remove the two screws securing the lower assembly cable:
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One 1.0 mm‑long tri-point Y000 screw
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One 1.3 mm‑long Phillips screw
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Use a hair dryer to heat up the lower assembly cable section on top of the Taptic Engine until it's hot to the touch.
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Slide an opening pick under the lower assembly cable to separate it from the Taptic Engine.
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Carefully bend the cable out of the way so you can access the Taptic Engine.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 2.1 mm‑long screw securing the Taptic Engine.
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Slide the tip of an opening pick along the top edge of the Taptic Engine to separate the plastic buffer strip adhered to it.
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Use the point of a spudger to pry up the Taptic Engine.
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Remove the Taptic Engine.
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Remove the three screws securing the bottom microphone:
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One 3.4 mm‑long standoff screw
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One 3 mm‑long standoff screw
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One 1.4 mm‑long tri-point Y000 screw
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the bottom microphone.
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Remove the bottom microphone.
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Use tweezers or your fingers to remove the old adhesive gasket from the bottom of the frame.
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Peel the white liner from the microphone adhesive gasket
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Align the gasket to the frame's microphone cutout and use a spudger to press it in place.
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Remove the remaining liner from the adhesive.
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Insert the microphone at a downward angle into its recess before pressing it flat to the frame.
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Install the three screws securing the bottom microphone:
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One 3.4 mm‑long standoff screw
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One 3 mm‑long standoff screw
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One 1.4 mm‑long tri-point Y000 screw
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to install the 2.1 mm‑long screw securing the Taptic Engine.
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Use your finger to gently press the lower assembly cable onto the top of the Taptic Engine.
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Install the two screws securing the lower assembly cable:
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One 1.0 mm‑long tri-point Y000 screw
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One 1.3 mm‑long Phillips screw
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Use your finger or a spudger to press and connect the two lower assembly cable connectors.
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Lay the Taptic Engine cover in place and align it by its screw holes.
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Make sure the bottom edge of the cover latches properly to the frame.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to install the three screws securing the Taptic Engine cover:
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One 2.9 mm‑long screw
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One 1.3 mm‑long screw
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One 2.4 mm‑long screw
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Use your finger or a spudger to press the assembly cable connector onto the logic board.
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In diesem Schritt verwendetes Werkzeug:Tweezers$4.99
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Use blunt nose tweezers or your fingers to remove large pieces of adhesive from the frame perimeter.
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Use a spudger to scrape the adhesive residue off of the frame.
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If the adhesive feels stubborn, apply some heat using a hair dryer or heat gun and try again.
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In diesem Schritt verwendetes Werkzeug:Microfiber Cleaning Cloths$3.99
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If you're reusing your back glass, apply a few drops of highly-concentrated isopropyl alcohol (over 90%) to a microfiber or lint-free cloth and wipe around the perimeter to prepare the surface for new adhesive.
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Wrap a lint-free cloth or a coffee filter over the point of a spudger and apply a few drops of highly-concentrated isopropyl alcohol (over 90%) to it.
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Wipe in one direction along the perimeter of the frame to clean the adhesive residue.
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Lay the adhesive sheet over the frame to determine its proper orientation.
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Grab the tab in the corner of the adhesive sheet and peel the liner to expose a third of the adhesive.
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Carefully align the exposed edge of the adhesive strip with the corresponding edge of the iPhone's frame.
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When it's correctly aligned, gently press the exposed adhesive strip onto the frame.
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Continue peeling away the liner from the adhesive, gently pressing the adhesive into place.
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Use a spudger to press the adhesive around the entire perimeter of your iPhone.
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Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the pull tab connected to the large front liner. The pull tab is often in a corner of the liner.
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Use the pull tab to peel off the large front liner from the adhesive.
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Prop up the back glass along the right edge of your iPhone.
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Use your finger or the flat end of a spudger to press and connect the back glass connector onto the logic board.
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Use your finger or a spudger to press and connect the battery press connector onto the logic board.
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Align the back glass connector cover by its screw holes and lay it in place.
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Use a tri-point Y000 driver to install the four screws securing the back glass connector cover:
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Two 1.3 mm‑long screws
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Two 1.0 mm‑long screws
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Use a tri-point Y000 driver to install the three screws securing the battery connector cover:
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Two 1.3 mm‑long screws
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One 1.0 mm‑long screw
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Use your fingers or a spudger to peel away all perimeter liners, exposing the adhesive.
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Check the frame and back glass for any stray liners and remove them. There should be no liners remaining.
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Lower the back glass onto the frame, beginning with the top edge.
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Press along the edges of the iPhone until the back glass sits flush against the frame.
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Use a hair dryer, heat gun, or an iOpener to heat the back glass perimeter until it's slightly too hot to touch.
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Use your fingers to firmly squeeze around the perimeter of the iPhone.
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Place your iPhone screen-side down on a clean, flat work surface.
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Lay a strip of tape around the perimeter of the back glass to protect the finish.
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Stack coins around the perimeter of the back glass until you create a wall that's as tall as the rear camera protrusions.
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Place 3-4 heavy books squarely on top of your iPhone.
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Leave the books in place for about 30 minutes.
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Use a P2 pentalobe driver to install the two 7.4 mm-long screws on either side of the charge port.
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Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Answers community for help.
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