Einleitung
Der iPhone 8 Home "Button" ist eigentlich ein statischer Sensor, der auch die Touch ID (Fingerabdruckerkennung) Funktion enthält.
Die meisten Ersatz-Home Buttons werden nicht funktionieren, kontrolliere das genau, bevor du mit der Reparatur anfängst. Der originale Home Button deines iPhones ist ab Werk mit dem Logic Board gekoppelt, und ohne den Apple-eigenen Kalibrierungsvorgang, wird selbst eine echte Ersatztaste von einem anderen iPhone nicht funktionieren. Um einen kaputten Home Button zu reparieren, solltest du einen speziell angefertigten universellen Home Button einbauen. Beachte, dass diese Ersatzteile nur als Taste funktionieren, die Touch ID wird nicht funktionieren.
Wenn du nur ein gebrochenes Display ersetzt, kannst du diese Anleitung benutzen, um deinen originalen, funktionsfähigen Home Button sorgfältig auszubauen und auf das neue Display zu übertragen, und so alle Funktionen, inklusive Touch ID beizubehalten.
Um versehentliche Schäden an den Displaykabeln zu vermeiden, ist es bei diesem Vorgang am Besten, die Displayeinheit komplett zu entfernen, bevor du mit der Reparatur am Home/Touch ID Sensor anfängst. Wenn du dich allerdings sicher genug fühlst, kannst du den Teil mit dem Display-Ausbau überspringen und direkt zum Home/Touch ID Sensor Abschnitt übergehen.
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Schalte dein iPhone aus, bevor du daran arbeitest.
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Drehe die beiden 3,5 mm Pentalobe Schrauben an der unteren Kante heraus.
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Es ist leichter das iPhone zu öffnen, wenn du das untere Ende erwärmst, so werden die Verklebungen aufgeweicht.
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Du kannst das untere Ende des iPhones mit einem Haartrockner oder einem iOpener etwa 90 Sekunden lang erwärmen, dann sollte der Kleber weich genug sein.
Hello,
What temperature is suitable for removing the front display ? I bought i-Fixit ProTech which is not include the heating "roller" . Thanks for help
Ich habe eine heiße Wärmflasche verwendet. Das hat gut funktioniert :-)
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Setze einen Saugnapf auf die untere Hälfte der Vorderseite , direkt über den Home Button.
Even with using high heat from a blow dryer, I had to put the suction cup over the home button or the bottom edge wouldn’t lift at all. That waterproof adhesive is incredibly strong.
As others have said, this part really stinks, but it’ll work if you keep trying. Agree with multiple rounds of hair dryer on high (did about 60-90s each time), and with having to out the suction cup over the home button. You don’t need a big gap to pry it open - it’ll be slight …
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Ziehe gleichmäßig und fest am Saugnapf. Es sollte sich ein kleiner Spalt zwischen Front Panel und Rückgehäuse bilden.
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Setze ein Plektrum in den Spalt ein.
Just completed a smashed screen replacement, this is probably the most time consuming part. Used packing tape to cover the screen to help create a suction surface (had to replace it a couple times because it pulls away after a purple good pulls ) Used consistent heat for about 5 minutes, then stuck a pick in the tiniest opening… and pry pry pry!
I failed at this step. No amount of heating, pulling, and rocking opened up enough of a gap to slip in even a knife let alone the blue plastic tool. That's with a phone that has an undamaged screen - just trying to replace the battery. Apple won this round :(
Be really careful here. I placed a sucker to the front and rear to help lever off the screen. However, the whole thing came away much easier than I anticipated and I ripped the front part completely away from the rear, tearing all three connector cables. New iPhone required.
Note that the opening pick they show here does not appear to come with the kit, which is a bummer! The plunger, the mini blue crowbar thing, these are too thick. I ended up using a really thin guitar pick.
Following careful methods can mostly preserve the seal and reusable. Won’t be as water tight but probably still pretty good.
Bottom edge is pull up with suction + separating tool. Use small precision scissor to cut any tape that gets overly stretched upon initial opening.
- For the 2 long edges, use an exacto knife to separate the seal from the screen. This keeps the tape on the chassis. Go slow along the long sides. Becareful to avoid scratching the paint on underside of the screen’s edge.
- Top corners have a thick sealed tape. Best to just use separating tool to twist it open.
In summary, top and bottom edge use separating tool. Side long edges can use exacto knife to gradually gently separate the seal from underside of the screen’s edge.
Intact screen, check. Tool kit, check. Hair dryer hot enough to make the phone too hot to touch, check. Following all instructions, check. Screen still in place and refusing to come off, check.
I heated, reheated, pulled and pulled. I simply could not get it off. Worked at it for an hour and a half, and I’m not a small guy. Yes it is hard to hold, but could get a grip. Just could not get it to budge. Off to the iPhone repair shop tomorrow. Anybody want to buy a repair kit and replacement battery?
After struggling for 30m, I looked up some alternate methods and found this helpful:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=25zAK5mG...
- I used a utility knife and pried up right under the home button
- the angle matters! I was trying to go too far down before going in. The top surface of the phone is rather thin, so you go in after barely getting under the chassis lip
- tilt utility knife left to right once you’ve got it under to work it in
- leave the utility knife in, and now add that pick
Pro-tip: don't be an idiot like me. Instead, remove the screen protector you have on the phone before applying the suction cups. Derp.
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Schiebe das Plektrum entlang der linken Kante von der unteren Ecke an nach oben in Richtung der Tasten für die Lautstärkeregelung und des Stummschalters. Trenne so die Klebeverbindung des Displays auf.
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Halte vor der oberen linken Ecke an.
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Setze das Plektrum an der rechten unteren Ecke ein. Schiebe es um die Ecke herum, dann entlang der rechten Kante nach oben. Trenne dadurch die Verklebung.
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Hebe vorsichtig den Saugnapf an und mit ihm den unteren Teil des Displays.
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Ziehe an der kleinen Lasche am Saugnapf, um ihn vom Front Panel zu lösen.
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Schiebe das Plektrum unter das Display um die obere linke Ecke und die Oberkante entlang, um die letzte Klebeverbindung zu trennen.
I did end up using just a smidge of IFIXIT adhesive remover along the edge before opening and that seemed to really help
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Schiebe die Displayeinheit leicht nach unten, weg von der Oberkante, um die Clips zu lösen, mit denen sie am Rückgehäuse gehalten wird.
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Öffne das iPhone, indem du das Display von der linken Seite her umklappst, so wie wenn du ein Buch öffnest.
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Lehne das Display an einen geeigneten Gegenstand, um es gut zu stützen, während du weiter am iPhone arbeitest.
Nach RECHTS klappen - nicht nach links!
Als ich das Flachbandkabel auf der rechten Seite sah, hab ich mich auch gefragt, ob die das mit nach Links klappen ernst meinen, und das „Buch“ lieber auf japanische Art nach rechts aufgeklappt. Das sollte dringend in der Anleitung korrigiert werden!
“Up from the left” means lift up the left side.
Which is the same as folding to the right.
“Like the back cover of a book” explains it even more clearly.
Maybe it gets lost in translation?
Fold to THE RIGHT - not to the left!
When I saw the ribbon cable on the right side, I also wondered if they were serious about folding it to the left, and the "book" would rather be opened to the right in the Japanese way.This should be corrected urgently in the manual!
Hi Jim, the display opens from the left side, toward the right side. It should look like the back cover of a book. Hope this helps. Good luck with the repair!
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Entferne vier Kreuzschlitzschrauben, mit denen die Halterung des unteren Displaykabels am Logic Board befestigt sind. Sie haben folgende Längen:
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Zwei 1,3 mm Schrauben.
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Zwei 2,8 mm Schrauben.
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Entferne die Halterung.
Not Y000 this time haha
It is not ideal, but possible for these screws.
using the repair kit i purchased with my screen replacement, i am currently having issues removing these screws with the PH000. please help
I was too, thankfully I had another set that contained the PH00 bit, that worked great for me.
Ok. My screw is stuck. How do I remove it? Philips head is stripped.
Solved it myself. Firm pressure did the trick.
took me awhile to figure out I needed to use PHOO bit for the 2 -1.3 screws
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Heble den Akkuanschluss mit der Spudgerspitze aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.
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Biege das Akku Anschlusskabel etwas weg vom Logic Board, um zu verhindern, dass es sich versehentlich wieder mit dem Akku verbindet und das iPhone während der Reparatur unter Spannung setzt.
Make sure you pry the battery connector off from the right hand side as shown in the picture. Theres a delicate component on the logicboard near the battery connector called a Mosfet which is linked to the battery charging software. If you knock it off accidently you’ll loose battery charging and the phone will boot loop and youll need to have it re-soldered back on.
So this is it. You don’t have to go any further removing the screen. You can replace the battery right from this point.
I wish I saw this comment 2 hours ago
This is where I broke my phone, a phone that was working quite well, paid for in full. Just because I had a cracked screen. Be super careful when connecting the cables. I was in a hurry and not paying attention, used too much force when re-connecting and broke those teeny little pins that could not be repaired. A tech tried for an hour to no avail. cautionary tale. Good luck
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Heble den unteren Displaystecker mit der Spudgerspitze aus seinem Sockel.
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Entferne die drei 1,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben, mit denen die Halterung über dem Verbinder der Front Panel Sensoreinheit befestigt ist.
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Entferne die Halterung.
If you are replacing the adhesive liner, the remaining release liner strips will interfere with the two outer screws. I had to cut a working section out of the liner at each location and move it aside with the spudger.
This part is throwing me for a loop. Having difficulty finding the read head for these screws. Is it the same size as the two small 1.3mm screws in step 12?
ended up getting it with the PH000, I must of just been rushing it.
My bracket looks different and none of the screw heads I have fits.
Mine too? Any help?
These screws did not stick to the magnetic screwdriver. Extremely difficult to get them back in place - but with some patience i succeeded :)
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Entferne die Displayeinheit.
Hi ifixit, if you find my method dangerous, please remove it.
After Step 17, I skipped Step 18 to Step 28.
At Step 29, I lifted up the four adhesive black pull-tabs to expose the white adhesive side. Next, I use hot air gun and blow on the back cover of the iphone for about a minute (maybe a hairdryer will work too) .
Warning: Don't overheat the iPhone, or you may accidentally ignite the battery.
I think the temperature was around 60 DegC.
Extreme Caution: Do Not overheat. I use my hand to gauge the hotness. Careful not to burn yourself or the board.
I was able to pull out all the white adhesive tapes easily as the adhesive soften.
DO NOT TRY this method if you are a novice or inexperience! I am not responsible if you hurt yourself or damage your iphone!
Hey John! I’m glad the repair worked out for you!
From our research, applying heat does soften the adhesive strips, but it also causes them to lose structural integrity and break more easily. That’s why we normally suggest using heat after the strips are already broken. Removing the Taptic Engine definitely takes a few extra steps, but we feel that it gives fixers the best chance of pulling out the adhesive strips intact.
I agree with John, skip 18 through 27. These are to make it easier to remove the battery adhesive. I replaced the batteries on two IPhone 8s. The first one I did all that stuff and the adhesive still broken and I had to carefully pry the battery out anyway. When I reassembled the phone the Home button no longer worked. Looking it up, this is apparently fairly common due to all the fragile wires involved in these steps. The second I skipped these steps and when I reassembled it everything worked fine. Not one of the eight (both phones) adhesive strips came out properly. I fully drained the batteries before doing the repairs. By the way, I use the virtual home button on the one phone, it’s a little annoying, but the phone is still usable if you’re not ready to shell out for a new phone.
I also skipped these steps. I won’t say it was entirely successful - two of the four adhesive strips broke and could not be grabbed with tweezers. But I had gotten most of the adhesive out already and the battery was quite loose, so I used a warmer under the phone, then gently slid a flat plastic blade under one end of the battery and slowly worked it up the phone. (Dental floss would have been safer-don’t do what I did, kids!)
Likely can skip step 18-28 and all the risks. Battery tape is relatively removable by the following method
- use a tweezer to pull up a corner of each tape. Then use fingers to peel back all the black tab on top of battery
- use 2 hands. Index and thumb on both. Pull about 1/4” with one hand, hold the tension and pull 1/4” with the other hand. Alternate, go slow. Pull out all 4 tape completely. I think the pause after each 1/4” while holding the stretched tape firmly prevents the tape from over stretching to become too thin and break.
- Don’t apply heat, I would guess that makes tape softer and break easier.
Have tried other methods and failed in the past. Pulling too fast (tape will snap) or use a tweezer to twist/roll (sharp edges will cut tape) Anyway, just use index/thumb on both hands and alternately pull slowly
I did do 2 iPhone 8 battery change this way. One removed all tape without breaking. Another broken all 4 tape after about 1/3 pulled so likely some factory assembly differeces.
I second this, this method works well in most cases. Removing the haptics helps to keep the angle low and pulling the tape as straight as possible
Howards method for removing the adhesive works like a charm. The only addition I made was to slightly warm the back of the iphone on a rice pack (used for sore neck muscles—haha). Going back and forth between hands is really crucial. While on hand gives a gentle pull, the other holds the phone from moving. Slow back and forth. Thanks.
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Entferne die vier Y000 Schrauben an der Halterung über dem Home/Touch ID Sensor:
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Eine 1,2 mm Schraube
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Drei 1,3 mm Schrauben
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Entferne die Halterung.
Bei meinem iPhone waren das Y00 Schrauben, nicht Y000
If the screw on the home button is broken, you can bend the metal sides upwards and pull down out of the phone and push and refold into the new display. Example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DTCQA-jn...
Andy Knapp - wherever you are - you saved me. NOTE: the iphone 8 has four tri-wing screws - that means you need a tri-wing screwdriver. I ordered an entire replacement set and mine had one in there, but it does not mention anything about tri-wing in these instructions… so. Hope that helps someone.
On my iPhone, these were Y00 screws, not Y000
Dutch version speaks of one 1,3 mm screw, but has 3 of those screws.
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Setze das Plastiköffnungswerkzeug unter der linken Kante des Steckers vom Home Button Kabel an und heble ihn hoch.
To have a better view on this connection I have removed the metal plate covering the back of the glass. Its a thin piece of metal held by 9 screws. To unscrew the 8 screws you need the screwdriver head with 3 sides like the Mercedes Benz symbole. The last is with a phillips near the camera.
I thought I was going to tear the cable doing it the way it’s suggested in the guide. After examining the cable on the replacement screen, I found it easier to hold the bottom connector pressed against the screen with one leg of needle nose tweezers whilst gently prying off the top connector with an opening tool.
See step 22 to get a clearer picture of what the connector looks like when it is separated from its socket. Your replacement screen will have a new socket (i.e., the bottom piece of the connector). My replacement screen had a new socket attached to the unit by a thin piece of plastic. For reassembly, when working the Home Button/Touch ID assembly back into the new screen, I had to work the connector cable under the socket in order to get the connector re-attached.
Be extra careful with this step: it wasn’t clear to me from the description that the connector wrapped from underneath to connect, nor did my set come with picks. I used a blade from the wrong side, inadvertently (but way too easily) severing the connector and destroying the function of the home button and thus the entire phone.
Be careful, I initially didn’t found the connector and nearly ripped the cable. The connector leads to a cable that goes under the metal plate. Found a YouTube video with very good close ups for this part (go cell phone repair detailed version)
I initially didn’t found the connector and cable and nearly broke it. The connector leads to a cable that goes under the metal plate, I needed YouTube video with good close ups to understand the setup.
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Drehe die Displayeinheit herum. Benutze einen Haartrockner oder erwärme einen iOpener, um die untere Kante des Displays für 90 Sekunden zu erwärmen. So wird der Kleber darunter weich.
The stove top works well also. Remember, as the main instructions say, it should be slightly too hot to touch comfortably.
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Trenne die Klebeverbindung des Home/Touch ID Sensorkabels mit einem Plektrum von der Rückseite des Displays.
This one’s kind of hard to reconnect. Just remember to be gentle, take your time, and use your hands so that you can really feel it out.
Keep in mind, there’s a tiny rubber ring gasket between the Touch ID button and the display. In my experience when removing the button, the gasket stuck partly to the the button and partly to the display. I gently removed the part that was sticking to the display and guided it back on the button. If you’re missing that gasket it won’t be waterproof.
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Entferne die Home/Touch ID Sensoreinheit, indem du sie durch die Vorderseite des Displays durchziehst.
Couldn’t get the Home Button (original one I was transferring) to work. I know the instructions said something about not tightening down the 4 screws around the Home Button too much, but how much is too much. Also, a day later, the screen I bought starting having green vertical lines. Took everything back apart and started from scratch the next day and still had the same 2 problems. Just for the heck of it, I put the old cracked screen back on the phone and everything started working again. Figured I wasted about 6-8 hours total on this rather small project and I’m right back where I started again. Something definitely wrong with the screen I ordered and I’m very disappointed. I’ve bought products from ifixit before and they worked, but no such luck this time. Anyone know how I get my 70 bucks back?
Hi Todd!
I’m sorry to hear about your experience! Please contact our customer support and we will get the issue resolved!
I greatly support Ifixit… but.. for me the same story as Todd Skobjak. Put in the new screen. Touch button is not found. Retried with screws loosened and refitting the plug. Nothing. Put the old screen back and the touch button worked again. So.. something with the new provided screen from Ifixed must be the case. I'll also get in touch with customer support.
Ifixed: not only check the screen but also the cable to the touch button!
What’s the trick here?
Getting an “unable to activate Touch ID” after replacing the home button and a new screen - somewhat similar to that above. Any troubleshooting steps/resolution? I loosened, tightened screws holding the assembly, no effect.
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Vergleiche dein neues Ersatzteil mit dem originalen Teil. Du musst unter Umständen Komponenten übertragen oder Klebefolien abziehen, bevor du das neue Teil einbauen kannst.
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Entsorge deinen Elektromüll fachgerecht.
Lief die Reparatur nicht wie geplant? Versuche es mit einer grundlegenden Fehlersuche oder gehe in unser [linkl|https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/Device/iP...|Antwortenforum], um dort Hilfe zu finden.
Vergleiche dein neues Ersatzteil mit dem originalen Teil. Du musst unter Umständen Komponenten übertragen oder Klebefolien abziehen, bevor du das neue Teil einbauen kannst.
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Entsorge deinen Elektromüll fachgerecht.
Lief die Reparatur nicht wie geplant? Versuche es mit einer grundlegenden Fehlersuche oder gehe in unser [linkl|https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/Device/iP...|Antwortenforum], um dort Hilfe zu finden.
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11 Kommentare
Great Fix It Guide Adam…..I would only add one suggestion to your instructions. To keep all the iPhone screws organized & separated by size I use a Sharpie marker to color code the screw to the bracket. It worked great! Thanks again!
my home button is really solid and i cant figure out why, it refuses to activate, and when i press the home button to recover it wont work, please help, ive replace it 6 times and ive checked every step properly and still nothing please help
It’s possible that you put one of the 1.3mm screws into the 1.2mm hole. That hole is right under the button.
I have replaced the screen and it works, but with installing a new home button , the home button does not function!
I just completed this guide and did everything by the instructions ( I believe) and the new home button still isn’t working : ( It was a cheap attempt thankfully, but I’m not sure where to go from here. I don’t know iPhones super well. If anybody else has seen this, let me know. Does it need drivers or something? Fresh iOS install? I’m not sure.
Hello, I’ve recently completed a different replacement, of the front sensor for my iPhone 8. Before doing this, my home button worked just fine, but after I completed this other replacement, it not longer works. I don’t believe that I damaged anything with the home button connection, but I don’t know why else it wouldn’t be working anymore. Does anyone have any suggestions?
Hi,
I’ve just replaced the home button on a friends phone, but the button doesn’t respond every time. sometimes it does respond, little later is doesn’t. someone who knows what the issue can be?
thx
I changed a display module and built in a new home button. It respond several times but after some tries it does no longer respond.
Any help?
just how long are those screws- i turn and turn and turn and the lift off is soooo slight, seemingly insignificant…
An. Jahnke - Antwort
I would recommend, from the very beginning, dumping all tools out of the kit (if you got it) and using that white paper tool box as a tray to organize the screws and braces in. It’s nice to work over because it catches screws well and makes it easy to see them if you drop any.
Johnny Emrica - Antwort
That’s a great idea thank you
Mohamed Dekkiche -