If I understand correctly you are trying to get the smaller plastic cover off that has the power cord running through it? It should be held in place with some screws that need removed and occasionally the cords inside can catch and need to be worked to release the cover. Sometimes with age and wear it is necessary to wedge and pry the plastic pieces apart after ensuring all the screws are removed. I have worked on a few Makita grinders at my job but not the 9501B specifically. Very rarely on some models of different brands I have found the rear plastic covers held in place by the same screws that secure the field coil, and they require the gear housing to be removed along with the armature after removing the brushes to get at them, but like I said this is a very rare circumstance. Here is the link to the parts breakdown that I hope can help you. Makita Official breakdown

Working on a number of hammer drills at my job including Bosch drills, the most common reasons for it to drill and not hammer is either to do with the hammers or the connecting rod and piston in the gear case. So inside that tube that you listed the part number for are floating hammers that have o-rings and seals on them. Over time they tend to flatten and not seal fully in the tube and that prevents them from moving. It can be that they are old and worn, that they cracked and frayed, that the tube itself has debris or is not greased fully anymore, or the tube may have gouging internally from debris preventing a complete seal. With the exception of the gouging you shouldn't need to replace the tube with the part number you included and can usually get by with a seal kit which is part number 1617000446. Through my job I get parts from Bosch directly but personally I tend to go through E-replacement parts which I linked to. Now it is important to take the gear case housing off and inspect the connecting rod...

The first thing to do is to make sure it is clean and free of debris as this can physically prevent it from working. The next thing would be to open it and check the grease level and the condition of the gear and the armature pinion and make sure they aren't worn or blocked by chunks of metal from wear. After time and use they can get hot, the grease can break down and that gear and pinion can be worn or jammed. While in there it is important to see the condition of the bearing as a sticking one can also be the issue. It is also important to check the field coil and armature because debris can get in there or buildup from the brushes wearing and prevent the armature from spinning all together. You can clean them with an electronics cleaner or non-flammable parts cleaner and compressed air. I see plenty of armatures and fields go bad at the shop I work at but they usually ground out and you wouldn't hear the humming. The brushes should also move freely in the holders and not be jammed. Replace anything...

First I would try blowing out the air ducts to make sure there is no debris which can block the doors, but if there is no debris the problem is usually that the blend door actuator is bad. That is what controls the direction of the air flow and I have seen them crack, the shaft that actually moves the doors breaks, or the electronics in them can be faulty if applicable. Replace that and it should fix your issue.

You eliminated the coolant as an issue since you have flushed it and refilled it and I am assuming you aren't having a leaking problem. The flush would run hotter than normal coolant because it's not designed as a coolant. It doesn't sound like your thermostat since your temp gauge and system readings are within range. Sounds like a problem with your heater core being clogged/damaged. Both lines should be hot to the touch and since one is cold that indicates that fluid isn't flowing through it. Its purpose is to transfer heat into the cabin so that would explain your issue.

Torque of the bar clamp nuts are 10-15ft-lbs. Here is a link to the manual, the torque is listed on page 12. https://www.searspartsdirect.com/manual/...-000247/craftsman-358350280-gas-chainsaw-parts

Here is a link to the instruction manual. Page 7 details blade replacement. https://cdn.makitatools.com/apps/cms/doc...-3f42-4053-95f6-8bcdb23c0eb7_JR3000V_IM.pdf Assuming that you cleaned it of debris and are using the proper blades, there is an interesting note in the manual that may be your problem: "If you tighten the screw without the pin on the slider fitting properly in the hole in the blade shank, the pin or the blade shank will be damaged. This may cause the blade to be extracted unexpectedly during operation." At the repair shop I work at I have also experienced some saws with damaged boots/rubber grips that wouldn't hold a blade properly so if there is any damage you may need replacement parts.

Starting fluid is best sprayed through the carburetor with the choke open/off through the air intake with the air filter removed (if applicable). If it goes in straight it is best to have the choke open and spray directly into the intake but if this is not possible spraying it in the air box with the air filter removed works more often than not. If either of these are inaccessible you can attempt to remove the spark plug, spray a small amount directly into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and then put it back and try starting it. It only takes a small amount or a quick spray. If this doesn't start it or if it starts and then immediately dies there may be a fuel issue (especially if it sat unused all season) or another issue to diagnose.

I work on quite a few Bosch hammer drills at my current shop. When the hammer stops working it is usually an o-ring issue. Inside the drill is a shaft with a piston and the hammer which is essentially a metal cylinder that slides up and down the shaft and slams into the end of the bit. The shaft itself and the hammer should be greased and there are a series of seals and o-rings that allow it to build air pressure. As these o-rings and seals get worn out or dry they don't seal all the way and can prevent the hammer from moving. Most of the repairs I do for the hammer issue is regreasing and replacing those o-rings and seals and cleaning dirt or debris if necessary. By spraying carb cleaner in the drill you most likely remoisturized the o-rings and seals and caused them to swell again. I'm glad it worked but if it doesn't work in the long term replacing them would be your next step. We also always coat the o-rings with a layer of grease when we install them to keep them swollen.

I encountered a few of these at a small engine repair shop I worked at. The main thing for winterizing (or in this case summer-izing) that is storing them between seasons is to cut fuel flow and run the blower until it dies. This will starve the carburetor and prevent water build up and the fuel from turning to varnish. In my experience even with Stabil added it can be hard to start the next season and we recommended to our customers to simply drain the fuel system for storage. Fuel these days has so much ethanol added even with higher octanes I've have seen it start to turn to varnish within weeks and even high octane no ethanol blends are not recommended to be used after 3 months unless sealed (per STIHL guidelines). The reason is that the fuel can absorb moisture and build up water when exposed to the atmosphere and even a sealed tank can obtain moisture through heating and cooling cycles if it is stored in a garage, shed or warehouse. The best bet if these steps weren't followed is to just drain the...