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iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade SSD Austausch

Was du brauchst

  1. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch, Bildschirm: Schritt 1, Bild 1 von 1
    In diesem Schritt verwendetes Werkzeug:
    iMac Intel 21.5" Cardboard Service Wedge
    $4.99
    Kaufen
    • Reparaturen sind relativ schwierig, wenn der iMac aufrecht steht und man keine iMac Reparaturhilfe verwendet. Man kann den iMac zwar auch für Reparaturen hinlegen, jedoch ist es einfacher und schneller den iMac in aufgerichtetem Zustand zu reparieren.

    • Wenn du die Reparaturhilfe aus Karton von iFixit hast, dann baue sie erst mit Hilfe dieser Anleitung zusammen.

    This instruction page is not clear and is ambiguous if you have to do all the steps to just change the power supply please clarify another words do I have to remove the speaker and the hard drive to replace the power supply?

    crawfordjohn - Antwort

    This is a display removal guide not the power supply guide!Here’s the guide you need to follow for that iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546 Netzteil ersetzen

    Dan -

    Didn’t need the cardboard wedge to remove the display. Waste of money. Lay your Mac on its back.

    James Clive - Antwort

    Die verlinkte Karton-Reparaturhilfe ist für den 21"-iMac. Passt sie auch 1:1 für das 27"-Modell?

    Stefan - Antwort

  2. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 2, Bild 1 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 2, Bild 2 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 2, Bild 3 von 3
    • Beginne an der linken Seite des Bildschirms, auf der Seite der Ein-/Aus-Taste, und schiebe das iMac Opening Tool zwischen Bildschirm und Gehäuse.

    • Die Achse am iMac Opening Tool verhindert, dass es zu tief in das Gerät gesteckt wird. Solltest du jedoch ein anderes Werkzeug benutzen, stelle sicher, dass du es nicht weiter als 9,5 mm in den iMac steckst. Es besteht sonst die Gefahr, Antennenkabel oder andere Komponenten zu beschädigen.

    Would a heat gun make this step easier? Or damage the iMac?

    Clark Green - Antwort

    A heat gun wouldn’t help you here as you still need to cut though the adhesive. You also risk damaging the display with the excessive heat.

    Dan -

    Removing the original adhesive is easier than removing newly applied adhesive (e.g., if you have to reopen iMac).  If you should happen to need to reopen the iMac, please use extreme caution and highly consider my suggestions below.

    When using the pizza cutter tool, do the first few steps in reverse starting with step 8.  Starting on the left side is better since this is where the adhesive is narrowest.  The right side has two antennas and the top right has one, see the pictures for step 18-21, they are the brass colored metal rectangles near the edges.  The adhesive on these pieces are wider and therefore have more holding power.  The thickness of the pizza cutter tool is enough to crack the glass.

    Walter Hayden - Antwort

    Continuing from my previous comment.  To remove the adhesive on the right side you’ll need to create a very slight gap to give the pizza cutter some more room.  Do this by cutting the adhesive on the left side up and around to the camera.  Before attempting to cut the right side. Carefully slide the plastic cards (I purchased two sets) to ensure the adhesive on the left top and side is completely free.  Now slowly move towards the right side.  After every inch or two of removing new adhesive, slide the card over to create this slight gap.  Be careful to not move the card too close to where the adhesive has not been cut.  You want to create a very slight gap without creating too much pressure.  Use extra caution with approaching the areas where the antenna are since the adhesive is stronger here and will need some additional cutting.  Follow this approach all the way around the right side.  Be careful to not create too much pressure at any one time.  Good Luck!.

    Walter Hayden - Antwort

    I can confirm with Walter - trying to remove freshly applied adhesive is WAAAAY harder! My pizza cutter didn’t work correctly (the circle became a rectangle!) and I ended up with a small crack on the left of my screen. Dang it!

    Benon Koebsch -

    I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

    Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

    Luke Gibson - Antwort

    I performed this on a Late 2015 iMac and there weren’t any significant differences to these steps, but I did find the repair to be nerve-wracking. My model cost nearly $3,000 and about 10 steps into this guide (which I did fully read ahead of time) I was thinking, “what have I got myself into?” But I didn’t rush and happily I’m typing this on my repaired iMac! I found a video from OWC that was more useful than the photos in this guide for certain steps: https://vimeo.com/139364064

    Anthony Zimmerman - Antwort

    Don’t know if you are still around, but THANK YOU for posting this video! The video made it seem SO NOT SCARY and, in conjunction with the photos and comments and tips on this guide, was a lifesaver. Big thumbs up.

    Melissa Ortiz -

    First impressions so far: yes it can be a bit nerve wrecking if it is your first time doing this sort of thing and even with lots of experience with a 2011 model it’s still a bit unsettling haha (nervous laughter).

    What I recommend: use a guitar pick to start cutting the glue. You’ll need a bit of pressure so do just the tip.

    Once you’ve done the whole perimeter (minus bottom) do it again but now it should be easier to go deeper so go very slow and careful. Then get the old suction cups used to open older models and start lifting the display very carefully to see where it’s still glued and cut those as well.

    Then you should be done and now the real fun begins! :D

    Carlos Ferrari - Antwort

    It’s ridiculous. Apple should pay for doing this. Like glue parts together to block a repair / make difficult. I smashed my iMac. FU Apple. Seriously, every product I owned had hardware issues. For example, bad solder joints. Never again Apple. I’m happy with Windows and in 2018 / 2019 there are many other manufacturers with high quality stuff. Apple is dying, if they do not change …

    Depple - Antwort

    NOTE: I followed every step word for word, but the adhesive strips supplied are as bad as double sided tape. Within 48hours the screen had slipped off and cracked. Now I need to fork out for a new screen and try again.

    Not sure what to try next time with strips? Perhaps a bit of glue to help hold it??

    Dan Kelly - Antwort

    Where do i get the “iMac Opening Tool?” its neither in the list of tools nor could i find it on the tool page.

    Patrick Cella - Antwort

    Hi @snappadoodle! The opening tool is included in the adhesive kit included in the tool list, but you can purchase it separately here.

    Sam Goldheart -

    After disconnecting the power cord and before cutting the panel adhesive, push and hold the power button for 10 seconds. This will discharge the power supply capacitors. In case you accidentally touch the solder joints on the board, you won't be shocked and drop the panel.

    Paul Floro - Antwort

    Bottom line: This repair seems to have worked (so far no more intermittent shut-downs). Thanks iFixit!

    As a novice who fully expected to destroy the display or worse, I make the following recommendations: (1) Before you start, read the steps several (many) times; visualize doing them and imagine how things could go wrong; (2) Read all the comments—there were some really helpful tips—like simply displacing the left speaker rather than fully removing it; (3) Get the recommended tools*; and (4) take your time—if you start to feel frustrated—seriously, stop and take a calming breath. Time is your friend. Failure is not an option.

    *I would add a 3-prong parts puller to the tool list—it’s great for pulling and starting loose screws so you don’t drop them down into the chassis like I did. It’s also great for retrieving the screws you’ve dropped into the chassis.

    Brad Bauknecht - Antwort

    Hi brad, what exactly did you repair to stop the shutdowns? I’m having the same issue

    merinian -

    Merinian: I replaced the power supply and it’s still working fine at this late date. No more intermittent shut-downs. Fingers still crossed!

    Brad Bauknecht -

    Just completed the Core i5 to i7 CPU upgrade and can strongly recommend getting the “pizza tool” to cut the display adhesive. It worked flawlessly and was done in less than 5 minutes. No inadvertent cables cut. No display problems.

    John Fisk - Antwort

    Thank you very much for the instructive tutorial. I just successfully replaced the hard drive on my 2012 iMac 27. I used a disposable surgical scalpel 15 blade, and locked the blade extending 9 mm from the scalpel shaft using office tape. I used regular double sided tape to reattach the screen. I cut the strips using the scalpel. I have no previous computer experience and this is the first time I replaced a computer part. This was easy and fun.

    Filip Dolatowski - Friday 11th Dec 2020

    Filip Dolatowski - Antwort

    You are very lucky! I’ve had three systems come in which someone did the exact same thing! All three cut the display ribbon cables. Please don’t use surgical knifes or any other knife! Use the proper tool the special pizza cutter wheel designed for the task.

    .

    You likely spent more on the knifes than what the wheel cost with the correct tapes. You make the next time doubly hard to open not using the correct tapes! Hows the built in microphone? You may have messed it up.

    Dan -

    Thank you very much for the tutorial. You are the best!

    After reading all the post here I almost gave up doing this on my own. But I did it anyway and was succesful. I would recommend everyone to use the rollcutter. There is no risk of harming the screen if you use it. And in my case it was enough to open the imac. If you do not harm the screen connector or the screen the biggest part is done. It gets easier once you`ve stacked your screen somewhere safe. The parts inside are mostely not as delicate as the heavy and expensive screen!

    Take your time and work carefully. It is definitely doable!

    CONSULTINEL - Antwort

    I found the cutter tool that came with my kit to work just fine. The wheel is extremely thin and I had no problem inserting the wheel to begin cutting. I follow the guide for the most part but took my time and use the cutting wheel slowly and then repeated the process a few times. Once I was able to pry the screen back about an inch I used the other end of the tool to cut additional adhesive that was still clinging to the body of the iMac and the screen. Having just replaced the power supply, and having my iMac running again, I do not think I will use the adhesive strips to reattach the screen. The screen fit back in place no problem which I did to test my Mac. Because the iMac screen sits at an angle I am quite comfortable that the screen is not gonna fall off. Also while having a screen off I was able to clean the inside of the Mac of dust buildup. I think I will only use the adhesive strips down the road if I’m gonna sell the Mac, which means I can give it a good clean before securing the screen.

    James Orwin - Antwort

    If the screen falls off (which it will do!) it will damage the parts which would be a lot more expensive! PLEASE get the correct tapes and properly mount the screen back on.

    Think of it this way how many people have shot them selves with a gun not realizing it was loaded or set to go off!

    Dan -

    I think Dan is right as I decided it best to complete the process with the adhesive tapes to secure the screen. I just took some time to do a complete clean of the interior before sealing the display.

    James Orwin - Antwort

    Ordered the full kit to replace my busted 3TB disc hard drive. All the tools work and are excellent. These pictorial and instructional install videos are complete, easy to use, and have good imagery. The 2TB SSD installed exactly as depicted. I used some 3M double sided automotive emblem tape to stick adapter to iMac case, no probs there. The adhesive strips also worked fine and stick firmly. Screen is solidly mounted, no falling out here. IFixit is awesome and this kit saved my over $1200 in getting another iMac. Highly recommended.

    Rick Pierce - Antwort

  3. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 3, Bild 1 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 3, Bild 2 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 3, Bild 3 von 3
    • Benutze das Werkzeug wie einen Pizzaschneider - rolle es entlang des Schlitzes zwischen Bildschirm und Gehäuse und es wird den Kleber durchschneiden.

    • Stelle sicher, dass du den Griff immer hinter dem Rad hinterher schiebst. Ansonsten könnte das Rad aus dem Griff herausrutschen.

    • Fahre mit dem Werkzeug entlang der linken Gehäuseseite.

    I found the 'pizza cutter' surprisingly smooth at cutting through four-year-old adhesive.

    Gerry - Antwort

    In my experience the cutter also worked very well for cutting the original adhesive. Unfortunately when I was reinstalling the display with the new adhesive strips, somehow the display power connector came loose. I had to open the display a second time and the cutter was not as effective against the new adhesive. I managed to break the cutter tool plastic wheel and cause a few small cracks in the edge of the displays glass as I worked! Be careful and go slowly!

    azaadkb - Antwort

    The cutting tool worked great until I accidentally twisted it a bit while rounding a corner. A chunk of the wheel snapped off, making the rest of the job quite a bit more challenging. Just make sure you are keeping the tool directly parallel with the screen.

    BARRY RODRIGUEZ - Antwort

    I concur, opening the screen a 2nd time is considerably more difficult because the adhesive strips are thinner than the original, which makes getting the cutting tool inserted much more difficult….as a result unknowingly I elongated a small crack to a much longer crack and somehow, the LCD now has a wide grey strip from top to bottom….The first time opening was easy, second time resulted in a ruined screen.. The cost of. a replacement LCD is the same has replacing the entire computer….I would recommend anyone attempting to remove the screen for any reason, do not use the aftermarket adhesive strips if you ever intend to open it up; again, or cut the strips much shorter, or possibly use a few pieces of scotch tape or similar to hold the screen in place….since the screen tilts back, this should not be a problem…Good luck…

    S. Baxter - Antwort

  4. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 4, Bild 1 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 4, Bild 2 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 4, Bild 3 von 3
    • Fahre mit dem Werkzeug um die obere linke Ecke.

  5. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 5, Bild 1 von 2 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 5, Bild 2 von 2
    • Schneide den Kleber entlang der oberen linken Gehäuseseite durch.

    The pizza cutter will sink in all the way to the tool handle when the adhesive is full cut, but don’t feel you have to do this in one motion. Some parts cut easier and some require a lot (like 20x) of gentle back and forth.

    Anthony Zimmerman - Antwort

  6. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 6, Bild 1 von 2 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 6, Bild 2 von 2
    • Zerschneide den Kleber weiter entlang der oberen Gehäuseseite.

    • Du solltest mit dem Gerät immer etwas vor- und zurückrollen durch den Teil, den du bereits durchgeschnitten hast, um so viel wie möglich von dem Kleber zu lösen.

    what about the part where the camera is though? do I just treat it like the rest of the screen?

    Boris - Antwort

    yes. the tool can’t go too deep

    flow in - Antwort

    I measured a depth several positions.

    - About 6 centimeters near iSight Camera center, you must no use iMac opening tool, because iSight element exists.

    - iMac opening tool has a 9mm radius, so it may break iSight camera element.

    - Making a plastic card stacking 2 or 3 to 3mm, under the iMac opening tool, that makes inserting a gap 5~6mm like below.

    @. iMac opening tool

    ====== plastic card3 (credit card 1mm)

    ====== plastic card2 (1mm)

    ====== platic card1. (1mm)

    ———————————————— isight camera element (total 5~6cm) ————

    In my case, i got a display problem where lcd display yellow connector was torn without care.

    Be helpful.

    KWANGBOK, LEE - Antwort

  7. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 7, Bild 1 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 7, Bild 2 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 7, Bild 3 von 3
    • Fahre nun um die obere rechte Ecke mit dem Werkzeug.

  8. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 8, Bild 1 von 2 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 8, Bild 2 von 2
    • Fahre mit dem Werkzeug entlang der rechten Gehäuseseite abwärts.

  9. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 9, Bild 1 von 2 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 9, Bild 2 von 2
    • Schneide den Rest des Klebers an der rechten Seite des Gehäuses bis ganz nach unten durch.

    • Jetzt solltest du das Werkzeug noch einmal zurück um das Gerät schieben, um so viel wie möglich von dem Kleber zu lösen.

    I didn’t have the fancy cutter or cards. So I used my actual pizza cutter. Followed directions just the same, and it easily cut through the adhesive w/o issues or marring the surfaces. Actually used it to rock back and forth to lift the screen. It’s all about taking your time. I rolled it back and further until cut thru. The 3/8 to 1/4 inch is right, but the screen framing actually prevents further depth unless you force it further. The adhesive actually protected the glass while cutting thru, so no damage. Great instructions, but where to get the replacement adhesive to reinstall?? Should be four independent strips.

    Keith Thomas - Antwort

    You are very lucky you didn't cut to deep! The plastic cutter that's in the kit is the only thing I would use. Spending a few bucks on a tool is a lot cheaper than $500 for a new display!

    Please don't use a real pizza cutter!

    Dan -

  10. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 10, Bild 1 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 10, Bild 2 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 10, Bild 3 von 3
    In diesem Schritt verwendetes Werkzeug:
    Plastic Cards
    $2.99
    Kaufen
    • Das Opening Tool hat schon den größten Teil der Arbeit erledigt, jedoch klebt das Display immer noch etwas am Gehäuse. Eine Kunststoffkarte ist nötig, um noch den letzten Rest an Kleber zu lösen.

    • Lege den iMac mit dem Display nach oben auf einen Tisch.

    • Beginne an der oberen rechten Seite des iMacs und schiebe eine Kunststoffkarte zwischen Display und Gehäuse.

    • Sei vorsichtig und stelle sicher, dass du die Karten nicht weiter als 9,5 mm in den iMac steckst. Es besteht sonst die Gefahr, Antennenkabel oder andere Komponenten zu beschädigen.

    I actually DESTROYED my display (black vertical strips) by pushing the card in a bit TOO DEEP. So it is REALLY important to insert the card only a bit (1-2mm) more than the cutter wheel, in particular at the top side, where many flat cables connect the panel with the PCB. These can be damaged very easily!

    Peter Fischer - Antwort

    Same thing with me…. Pushed cards to far…. new panel needed…€600…..

    i think ifixit needs to place a bigger caveat, as I have missed it the first time

    Edgar Broekema - Antwort

    i successfully upgraded two imacs. one opened with ifixit pizza knife and another with a regular paper knife. however, when i had to open the first one once again i broke its screen glass. it seems ifixit adhesive strips are too strong. next time i’ll try to use heater to weaken glue tension.

    Eugene Kharkov - Antwort

    I broke one too. And even if you think you did it correctly, you’ll not be able to see where you might have gone too far. You would think it’s very protected behind that metal plate, but no. Take special care with this offence to “right to repair” This should have been designed WAY better. I mean replacing a hardrive that is very likely to fail over the course of time, or even a simple desire to upgrade to an ssd!.

    Bummer

    Denis Sytmen - Antwort

    HINT: If you turn the card and use the blue part of it, then you can avoid going to deep: no further then the blue part …

    Barthold - Antwort

    On the cards I got with my iFixit kit, the blue part was way bigger than 9.5mm — closer to 20mm!

    I made a line 9mm from the edge of each of my cards and used that as a guide.

    Damian Chadwick -

    I’m thinking I might just use vinyl tape to keep the screen in place for at least a little while after an upgrade. The extra strength of the replacement tape sounds scary.

    Art Hackett - Antwort

    I wrapped two layers of vinyl electrical tape around the short side of an old gift card 3/8” from the edge. This “stop" prevented the card from going in too far. The card really helps to break the panel free.

    Paul Floro - Antwort

    This is a good tip!

    Lennart Saaf -

    Great idea! Wish I had read this before doing it. My less then optimal solution was to draw lines 3/8” around the cards, not as safe as your fix, but fast.

    Michael Piplani -

    Umm.. I’m not sure that I’d recommend using a repurposed credit card to open the display - I found that using the “pizza tool” to cut the old adhesive then using a pair of suction cups to gently pull the display up worked perfectly well.

    John Fisk - Antwort

    surely the card should have been designed such not to go further than certain distance with a barrier band.

    S Hussain - Antwort

    The cards don’t have any means to control the depth, its your skills which control it. Its no different from how you use a knife to cut your chicken up when you serve it for dinner.

    Dan -

    The pizza roller tool is enough to cut through the adhesive. You dont need to cut in a lot further. So the cards are really not necessary.

    sebastian.wittl - Antwort

    might be a stupid question but would credit cards or state ids work too?

    John Ta - Antwort

    You need the pizza cutter! The cards are used to hold the display off of the case frame.

    As for as using old credit cards and useless ID cards sure they will work. I wouldn’t use anything important ;-}

    Dan -

    No problems. I used two old credit cards and marked out a line using permanent marker so it was at the same depth as stipulated on this page. I even pushed it in a little deeper and no issues.

    James Clive - Antwort

  11. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 11, Bild 1 von 2 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 11, Bild 2 von 2
    • Verdrehe die Plastikkarte leicht, um den Abstand zwischen Bildschirm und Gehäuse zu vergrößern. Trenne allen Kleber in der Nähe der Ecke auf.

    • Zu viel Kraft kann das Display zerbrechen. Arbeite vorsichtig. Versuche nicht, den Spalt mehr als 6 mm breit zu machen.

    My children tend to collect cards like this from hotels, Disneyland, old IDs, iTunes cards, gift cards etc. They came in handy for this step. After wedging in the first card into the left corner, I wedged the left corner, then added cards along the bottom edge. Finally I continued to push in additional cards to existing cards and found that this created a smooth even pressure along the display top. At 2-3 card-thickness the last of the adhesive let go, gentle as a baby.

    Anthony Zimmerman - Antwort

  12. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 12, Bild 1 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 12, Bild 2 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 12, Bild 3 von 3
    • Höre vor der iSight Kamera auf, den Kleber durchzutrennen. Ansonsten besteht die Gefahr, sie zu beschädigen.

    • Schiebe die Karte in Richtung der Bildschirmmitte, um den Rest des Klebers durchzutrennen.

    was denn jetzt? Vor der Kamera aufhören, oder in Richtung Bildschirmmitte schieben, um DEN REST zu entfernen? Wenn ich vor der Kamera aufhöre, kann ich nicht alles an Kleber entfernen.

    Julia S. - Antwort

  13. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 13, Bild 1 von 2 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 13, Bild 2 von 2
    • Schiebe die Karte zurück in die Ecke des Bildschirms und lasse sie dort stecken, um zu verhindern, dass der Kleber den Bildschirm wieder festklebt.

  14. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 14, Bild 1 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 14, Bild 2 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 14, Bild 3 von 3
    • Schiebe eine zweite Karte zwischen Bildschirm und Gehäuse an der oberen linken Seite.

  15. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 15, Bild 1 von 2 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 15, Bild 2 von 2
    • Drehe die Karte leicht, um den Abstand zwischen Bildschirm und Gehäuse zu vergrößern.

    • Genau wie an der anderen Seite, bewege die Karte nur langsam, damit der Kleber genügend Zeit hat, um sich zu lösen, und das Glas nicht überbeansprucht wird.

  16. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 16, Bild 1 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 16, Bild 2 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 16, Bild 3 von 3
    • Schiebe die Plastikkarte in Richtung Mitte und höre wieder vor der Mitte auf, um die iSight Kamera nicht zu beschädigen.

  17. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 17, Bild 1 von 2 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 17, Bild 2 von 2
    • Schiebe die Karte wieder an die obere, linke Ecke und lasse sie dort stecken.

  18. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 18, Bild 1 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 18, Bild 2 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 18, Bild 3 von 3
    • Hebe den Bildschirm nur einige Zentimeter an. Er ist immer noch mit dem Logic Board des iMacs mit Kabeln verbunden.

    • Wie im Bild gezeigt, inseriere die Karten zwischen Bildschirm und Gehäuse und fange an, diese leicht zu drehen, um den Abstand zwischen Gehäuse und Bildschirm zu vergrößern.

    • Wenn Teile des Bildschirms sich nicht zu lösen scheinen, dann nimm eine weitere Karte, um in diesen Bereichen den Kleber ein weiteres Mal durchzutrennen.

    • Beginne, die obere Seite des Bildschirms nach oben vom Gehäuse zu entfernen.

    I would recommend using suction cups at this stage to lift the display.

    Marco De Palma - Antwort

    I would strongly recommend using suction cups

    Luca Mucci - Antwort

    Agreed about the suction cups. An extra pair of hands might be good here as well.

    Damian Chadwick - Antwort

    I agree, I’m using iFixit suction cups right now.

    tanner85 - Antwort

    Go very slowly when lifting the display – give time for the adhesive at the bottom edge to stretch and flow. If you lift too fast, the glass can crack. That’s what happened for me.

    Gerry - Antwort

    The stickiest location on my iMac was the mid-to-lower section of the right side. There are a couple of thicker areas that needed attention from the plastic cards.

    Lennart Saaf - Antwort

    This is the step where I cracked the screen.

    HABEEB102 - Antwort

    Did you use the pizza cutter tool first?

    Dan -

    WARNING!!! This is where you can crack you screen. TAKE YOUR TIME! Everything work fine for me because I took my time. I was very shocked at how fragile the screen is. It does have a small amount of flex but don’t push your luck. There were two things that made this easy for me #1 Once you have used the cutting wheel to your best judgement to cut the adhesive, start using the iFixIt plastic cards as spacers and space them evenly around the screen. I used 10 individual cards of and gently moved them up and down at each section two at a time. Once I started having less resistance, I combined 2(i.e. 5 sets total) cards evenly space to allow for move rigid and stronger movement to separate the screen. This really helped me to free up more adhesive. #2 before lifting the screen up fully, use tweezers to pull the adhesive like a string from around the entire monitor. This will make lifting the screen much easier since all adhesive will be removed. Finally when lifting the screen use the cards with your hands under them.

    Andrew Phillips - Antwort

    Would any of you consider the possibility of heating the glass with a hot-air fan before starting the process? In that way, the adhesive would let the screen go easier, I think.

    ManuG - Antwort

    The type of tape has a lot to do with it. If the original tapes are still present then the pizza tool slices through the thin foam core of the tape so heating is not needed. If on the other hand someone replaced the tapes with just regular double sided tapes then there is no foam core to split and there is a sizable risk the display will get damaged in the process of taking it off. So sure in this case a bit of heat might help, just be aware the LCD panel area is quite close to the edge along the top three sides so you also have the risk of dating it from over heating!

    Dan -

    If not for iFixit tuts and tools, no way I could do this. iMac 27" takes the prize as the worst design ever for upgrades/maintenance, what were they smoking when they designed it like this?

    Jim Gavioli - Antwort

    I have always believed that a properly placed screw can be a beautiful thing. A few decorative, but functional, screws placed in the back of the iMac case to attach the screen would be awesome, but this method is anything but beautiful and borders on insane.

    Leland Goertz - Antwort

  19. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 19, Bild 1 von 2 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 19, Bild 2 von 2
    • Während du den Bildschirm mit einer Hand nach oben hältst, trenne mit der anderen Hand das Stromkabel, welches zum Bildschirm führt.

    • Hebe den Bildschirm zwar so weit an, dass du genug Platz hast, um an den Anschluss zu kommen, jedoch nicht so weit, dass du das Kabel dehnst und den Anschluss beanspruchst (~20cm).

    Mark all cable connectors with a spot of white correction fluid before removal. This will remove the risk, when reinserting them later, of getting them the wrong way round. Yes - I know they will only plug in one way round, but it does make life easier if you are not in perfect lighting!

    Alastair Lack - Antwort

    At this step, if you mess up anything with these 2 cables, especially when plugging them back in, even if you think you’re following the instructions here to a T, then you’re screwed.

    I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

    Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

    Luke Gibson - Antwort

    Quote - "Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility" You cannot be serious can you? So because someone attempted to repair their own Apple device that they OWN, you are saying that they may/will be locked out of using any Apple repair service again? Ridiculous claim sorry.

    Peter Newman -

    The display cable, the wider one, has a lock on it , usually a plastic tape lift tab to release it, once thats flipped it should come out fairly easily, if your experiencing resistance and the cable isn’t coming out then check for this lock/latch, the power cable just pulls out, just don’t rush it everything should go fine, fairly easy to do with the end result a working iMac

    Ed tabickman - Antwort

    Is it possible to replace the power cable if its damaged? I can’t seem to find anything about this.

    Joseph Orr - Antwort

    After finishing my hard drive replacement I reconnected these connectors to test my display before using new adhesive. Everything was working beautifully. But then when I applied the new adhesive and went to seal the display on for good - the display power cable somehow became disconnected! I had to reopen the Mac for a second time which was far more difficult with new adhesive. When reinstalling double and triple check that the cables are securely inserted before the final seal. Sounds obvious but it’s quite the annoyance if something goes wrong at this point.

    azaadkb - Antwort

    Very difficult to work with these connectors.

    Power cable very difficult to unplug - data cable veeeeery difficult to plug in.

    I noticed that working with the iMac positioned vertically (and with a proper support for inclination) makes this step slightly easier…

    Luca Mucci - Antwort

    Interesting comments.. personally, I didn’t find the cables particularly difficult to detach and reattach. You do have to be patient and gentle. Personally, I found that a rolled up beach towel gently wedged between the unit and back of the display helped keep the glass up. Also, a small flashlight can be helpful to see the cables and connectors if you’re lighting isn’t perfect.

    John Fisk - Antwort

    I’d agree to John - not overly difficult. My workaround was to prep the screen for re-installation and then place it in front of the standing machine. The cables are long and flexible enough to be put in place even in this state. You can easily attach the cables and continue with fixing the screen to the housing.

    stefan - Antwort

    I would not recommend doing this step as pictured. The cable you are removing has little tabs on the wide side that can be depressed inwards towards the center of the connector, releasing the cable. If you just grab the cable as pictured and yank it out, without depressing the side tabs, you are likely to damage something. Don’t pull on the wires, use your fingernails at the connector to squeeze the very small little tabs inward to release the cable from the connector.

    maccentric - Antwort

    The removal of the LCD power cable does require the left and right sides to be squeezed inwards towards each other first before removing, why this isn’t mentioned in the take apart can lead to damaging the iMac.

    robert - Antwort

    I agree with maccentric. DO NOT just pull the power cable. Use your fingernail or spudger and gently press the tiny notch inward and towards you gently and one side will disengage. Do the same for the other side and it will slide right out. The notches just have enough edge to catch your nail or spudger. Using your nail is better as you can better feel when you have caught the edge and can feel the cable move.

    Andrew Phillips - Antwort

    I lifted the display a few inches up and propped it open in the middle using my iPhone in portrait mode with its torch on. Did the job nicely:

    James Clive - Antwort

  20. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 20, Bild 1 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 20, Bild 2 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 20, Bild 3 von 3
    • Klappe die Metalllasche am Anschluss des Bildschirm-Datenkabels um.

    • Trenne das Kabel vom Logic Board.

    • Dies ist ein empfindlicher Anschluss, der relativ einfach beschädigt werden kann. Ziehe das Kabel gerade zur oberen Kante des iMacs aus dem Anschluss heraus.

    I replaced HDD to SSD and assembled parts again. When I boot up the iMac, I found black lines on display (looks partly not broken).

    I searched Internet, and some says graphic card problem, but I didn't touch anything but cable to lift up.

    Could the damaged display data cable cause this situation? I hope I could fix this by just replacing the cables..

    chansung park - Antwort

    Sorry, Black lines is a damaged display assembly ;-{ In the process of removing it you either pushed the tool into deep or you torqued the glass severing the tiny wire traces.

    Dan -

    Same trouble here, is it cable trouble or connector trouble?

    redfoxydarrest - Antwort

    Sorry damaged display

    Dan -

    I think whenever words like "...is a delicate connection that can be broken. Be sure to pull the [cable in a certain direction] ANYTIME.... It is worth either a closeup or 2, maybe one with annotations or insertion directions and maybe a motion direction arrow with the something like and 'X' char or a circle division slash over the wrong one.

    john - Antwort

    I agree! +1

    Jim Reitz -

    Yes, John is absolutely correct on this one. I damaged the display cable trying to get it back in. A close up would have helped and now my computer might have actually been fixed.

    Marsha Giardina -

    [|There are 2 cables to disconnect on my Mac (?). Also, I don’t see a metal retaining bracket. I can take a picture, but cannot attach. I got the glass loose with no problem, but am worried about damaging the cables]

    Jim Kelly - Antwort

    Hi Jim! You can go to our Answers Forum to post some better images of your situation!

    Sam Goldheart -

    At this step, if you mess up anything with these 2 cables, especially when plugging them back in, even if you think you’re following the instructions here to a T, then you’re screwed.

    I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

    Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

    Luke Gibson - Antwort

    Can anybody upload an image of how the display can get damaged from removing it? I find it hard to believe (though I’m reading the horror stories here) that a whole display can get damaged. Especially when many of us were following to a T and being VERY CAREFUL.

    Thanks.

    Bryan - Antwort

    First: During reassembly, I highly recommend you connect these cables and do a test boot BEFORE you remove the protective tape on the adhesive strips. That way you can fix any issues(like a damaged cable) if something is not right and you have not re-glued the screen back down which will cause a problem. If you have a second person and everything is working after test boot, you can just leave the cables connected, lift the bottom of the screen and have 2nd person pull the protective tape on the adhesive strips and you can set the screen in place. Second I damaged the video data cable during reassembly on my late 2015 iMac- I did not get the connector straight and I damaged the wires on the cable. I recommend you have someone else hold the screen while you attach the cables - they are fragile. Luckily, the data cable was easily replaced for only about $20. If you must do this by yourself, just be careful I highly recommend have 2 people at this step during reassembly.

    Chip T - Antwort

    At least on my “late 2013” model, the smaller display cable connector has tiny, tiny clips on the outside edges. These must be squeezed to unlatch it. Don't pull on the cable itself or the wires can be pulled out. Even with my small fingers, it was hard to grip the clips. When reconnecting, the connector will lightly snap into place.

    Paul Floro - Antwort

    I managed this step without any problems, but I had my wife hold the screen up while I disconnected/connected the cables. I STRONGLY encourage another pair of hands here so you can focus your full attention on being ultra careful with the cables.

    BARRY RODRIGUEZ - Antwort

    On the 2015 there are 2 cables.

    1. Once the display is loose use the Mac foam block sold from Ifixit to keep the display from rocking to hold open the glass

    2. Blow out dust with canned air

    3. Get a flash light and small flat edged screw driver

    4. Use the screw driver to slow pry loose the connector from the socket by gently inserting it in the gap on the left and then on the right slowly easing the connector from the socket towards the top of the glass

    5. The more center connector has a pull tape and a wire loop. Lift pull tape and the wire loop will raise up.

    6. Pull the wire loop towards the top of the glass to slide out the connector from its socket

    Anthony Crocker - Antwort

    Good instructions except for the screwdriver - try and use a plastic spudger instead ! Also, getting a headworn LED light makes life a bit easier.

    Philip Sedlmair -

    Have a late 2013 model and went to do the SSD upgrade. When going to remove the display we cracked the bottom left corner of the glass (just the glass frame part - not part of the screen that displays anything). We were also having difficulty putting re-attaching the display flex cable. Whenever we finally went to test it before re-sealing the screen back on with new adhesive it would sound like it is turning on as it makes boot-up noises and the fans start running, but the screen would just remain black. Just wondering if the crack in the bottom left-hand side of the glass/display would have damaged a part of the display assembly or if it would be more likely that we just damaged the display flex cable (which can be replaced for $26)?

    Zach Tweel - Antwort

    Did you get to the bottom.of this?

    paul.lynch1 -

    does anybody know how the Display Cabel pin assignment is? I want to try if I can attach the Panel to another grafic card

    Marco Rizzo-Scheible - Antwort

    I’ve completed the upgrade to SSD, but while restarting my screen remains black. As if no connected.

    I assume I broke the sensitive connector.

    —> how to order a spare?

    Durain - Antwort

    Did you get to the bottom of this?.

    paul.lynch1 -

    is the display assembly of 2015’s the same as 2017’s?

    zenu - Antwort

    No! Apple loves to mess us up!

    Dan -

    The panels are different since technology progresses at a rapid pace and Apple does like to be on bleeding edge of things. When they do a manufacturing run of screens, there will be a few years that will have the same screen. I believe 2017 is when they introduced the higher resolution panels. Everything from 2012 late to 2015 should be the same though.

    Philip Sedlmair -

    That display cable connector is common to many Macs of the 2012 era. I’ve destroyed 2 in 38 years of servicing all types of computer equipment.

    As stated, there is a latch on this connector. If you put any incorrect force on the cable or connector during disassembly or reassembly, you will break the cable and possibly the connector. The cables can be purchased online and the video connector on the display is exactly the same.

    I repeat, if you pull out on the video cable after it has been unlatched instead of parallel to the logic board, YOU WILL BREAK IT.

    James Hendrickson - Antwort

  21. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 21, Bild 1 von 2 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 21, Bild 2 von 2
    • Hebe den Bildschirm bis in eine fast senkrechte Position an.

    • Es gibt immer noch einen Klebestreifen an der unteren Kante des Bildschirms, der den Bildschirm wie eine Art Scharnier mit dem Gehäuse verbindet. Klappe den Bildschirm einige Male auf und zu, um den Kleber zu lösen.

    • Entferne so viel vom Klebstoff wie möglich. Fasse ihn dazu an den Außenkanten an und ziehe oder rolle ihn nach innen.

    Thank you Stef, that's what i will do next time, i cracked the lower part of the screen went opening very slowly, that's probably why those "tabs are for !!

    dforgues - Antwort

    Thanks Stef, this has saved me! Simple yet very effective.

    David Zemsky - Antwort

    Yep, I cracked the lower corner of the display as well. I failed to work the adhesive enough to loosen it sufficiently. Be careful, I just had to buy my customer another screen!

    Peter Haigh - Antwort

    There seems to be missing a step or two. As I was removing the old display, there are two wires that need to get transferred to the new replacement display. There is not note about these two wires located at the top of the display. The 1.128-inch ribbon cable and then this other 4-inch long, two-wire cable that goes to a very small circuit board that is 1/4 by 3/8 of an inch and seems to be adhered to the panel.I have not been able to get this cable off the old display. There is a port for it on the replacement display.

    Note: When ordering this screen, and plastic cards as noted tools, ifixit.com did not list the pizza cutter or the new replacement adhesive strips. So now I’m not sure how to get the new one on and secure.

    Todd Derek - Antwort

    Are you sure your trying to remove a late 2013 model A1419 display assembly?

    robert -

    The adhesive strip along the bottom is designed with a pull tab on each outer end. Rather than lever and pull the screen simply carefully pull the tab which removes that half of the lower adhesive strip and frees up the screen.

    Andrew Stephens - Antwort

    Niemals den unteren Klebestreifen mit einem scharfen Gegenstand wie Rasierklinge oder so versuchen zu trennen, davon geht die Beschichtung des Displays kaputt und man hat hässliche Streifen unten hinter dem Glas. Stattdessen lieber versuchen, das Display nach oben zu klappen und abzuziehen.

    Bas ti - Antwort

    translation from Bas Ti because this is very important:

    Never try to separate the bottom adhesive strip with a sharp object such as a razor blade or something, the coating on the display will break and you will have ugly strips at the bottom behind the glass. Instead, try to flip up and pull off the display.

    Kurt Grootjans - Antwort

    If you are just replacing the hard drive, I have found that it is quite possible to do while leaving the screen connected, making the process much easier. The amount you need to tilt the screen to access the little pull tabs at the bottom to release the screen is also sufficient to access the drive. I remove the drive while the iMac is upright. I also heat up the bottom of the screen to soften the glue and to help with the possibility of the glass cracking while doing this step.

    maccentric - Antwort

    Very dangerous! You’ll stress the cables and the logic board connectors.

    Dan -

    I meant that you can leave the bottom strip of adhesive attached; you still need to disconnect the 2 cables.

    maccentric -

    As mentioned before you can pull out the lower adhesive strip. Dont cut it or move the display up and down. This is even more dangerous. On the lower side of mac where the display glass ends is a offset. When moving the display up and down you might crack it over that offset.

    sebastian.wittl - Antwort

    When removing the adhesive from the top of the screen, be sure to start at the iSight camera location (= in the middle). If you start at an upper egde of the glass (side doesn’t matter) towards the middle, you risk removing the black background foil from the screen, which will result in ugly stripes behind the glass.

    christopher.winter - Antwort

  22. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 22, Bild 1 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 22, Bild 2 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 22, Bild 3 von 3
    • Berühre auf keinen Fall die Lötpunkte auf der Rückseite des Netzteils und die Zuleitungen der Kondensatoren. (Rote Markierung)

    • Wenn nötig, kann eine Plastikkarte helfen, den übriggebliebenen Kleber zu lösen.

    Would have been helpful to box the same red area when using the plastic card to separate the glue. Since the red blocked picture is inverted, if someone doesn't pay close attention it may not be obvious that the area of concern is at the right top of the graphic pictures in which the plastic card use is being demonstrated..

    Wizbang FL - Antwort

    you don't need to cut the bottom part as the bottom tape is stuck on each side and you can easily pull it out

    Thomas Webb - Antwort

    What is the twisted wire taped to the back of the display that can bee seen in the upper right of the first two pictures? I have an 27” iMac without a screen an my replacement does not have this wire. I think it is a temperature sensor but do not know where it connects to.

    Eric - Antwort

    [|I opened up my iMac and there’s no HDD or SSD in that spot. its just empty.]

    John Warmann - Antwort

    You probably had just an SSD installed and no HD, which is on the opposite side of the motherboard (and quite a bit more work to access).

    maccentric -

    Please update the picture to include the RED BOXED IN AREA that you refer to on all three pictures in this step. I have had a few zaps from these supplies and it is not pleasant.

    Charlie Nancarrow - Antwort

    J’ai réussi à intervenir dans l’iMac sans décoller l’ensemble de l’écran. Je l’ai ouvert en laissant la dernière partie collée (vers le logo Apple) et qui sert comme une charnière. Bien calé et assuré l’écran n’a pas bougé et j’ai pu changer mon disque dur facilement. Le grand avantage et d’avoir l’écran toute suite juste quand on le recolle par la suite.

    David Mariaux - Antwort

    Well, I of course touched a soldering point in the red area as my hand slipped. I heard and felt a tiny “click” and after replacing the HDD with SSD etc I can not power the iMac up anymore. Not a sign of life :-( I suppose I broke the power supply. Can someone confirm? Or could something else have broken too?

    David Rosner - Antwort

    I took my time and pulled both tabs slowly gently. Easily removed and glass came right off.

    Keith Thomas - Antwort

  23. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 23, Bild 1 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 23, Bild 2 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 23, Bild 3 von 3
    • Sei vorsichtig bei der Handhabung des Bildschirms. Er ist groß, schwer und aus Glas. Die Kanten des Displays sind zerbrechlich. Vermeide es, ihn an den Ecken hochzuheben.

    • Hebe den Bildschirm aus dem Rahmen nach oben und entferne ihn anschließend aus dem iMac. Lege das Display auf eine flache und weiche Oberfläche mit dem Bildschirm nach unten.

    • Möglicherweise musst du an einer Seite anfangen, den Bildschirm langsam anzuheben, um den Rest des Klebebandes zu lösen.

    • Nachdem der Kleber durchschnitten worden ist, kann er nicht mehr zu Verkleben des Displays verwendet werden. Folge dieser Anleitung, um nach der Reparatur die Klebestreifen zu ersetzen, welche das Display am rückseitigen Gehäuse befestigen.

    You really should be using film handling or surgical type gloves to handle the screen to minimise finger grease on any of it. Even if it’s possible to clean most of it off, it can be corrosive over time.

    Art Hackett - Antwort

    Use a large suction cup and latex gloves for this:

    https://www.amazon.com/FCHO-Suction-Alum...

    Philip Sedlmair - Antwort

    I think iFixIt should have mentioned this step might be safer using a suction cup as mentioned by Philip.⏎
    I thought following the guide, holding the screen on each side would be fine, but the glass cracked almost immediately.

    I did not grab it by the corners, just the middle of the glass.

    This glass is horrendously fragile. I don't think I can afford to repair the screen :(

    Rod Landaeta - Antwort

    Lowering the screen down at the end here does not need a suction cup. It sounds like you left something in the channel so you fractured the screen from the object (a loose screw?). I've done a ton of these systems and have not needed a suction cup at this step. I do agree a suction cup can be helpful in the screen removal process. just to give you a better purchase, not pulling! As you can damage the screen if you pull too hard.

    Dan -

  24. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 24, Bild 1 von 1
    • Wenn du das Displaypanel austauschst, musst du wahrscheinlich einige Bauteile vom alten Panel auf das neue übertragen. Vergleiche die Rückseite des alten Panels mit dem neuen. Achte auf alle Kabel, Sensoren und Schaumstoffformteile, welche auf dem neuen Display fehlen.

    • Wenn sich ein Kabel oder ein Draht unter einem Klebeband befinden, dann ziehe das Klebeband immer vorher ab.

    • Wenn das Kabel am Rahmen festgeklebt ist, dann musst du erst die Klebestelle mit einem iOpener oder einem Haartrockner erwärmen. Du kannst dann ein Plektrum unter das Kabel schieben und es ablösen. Ziehe niemals direkt an empfindlichenh Steckern.

    • Schiebe ein Plektrum unter die Schaumstoffformteile, um sie vom Display abzulösen und ziehe sie vorsichtig ab. Eventuell musst du sie mit doppelseitigem Klebeband am neuen Display befestigen.

    Be extremely careful removing the LCD Temp Sensor from the rear of the screen. If you pull the wire, you run the risk of severing the metal wire from the connector but not notice it because the surrounding plastic insulation may still be intact. Use a razor blade so “shave off” the sensor under the adhesive. I just had the screen replaced by a local shop and, upon boot, the fan was running full-speed and the Mac’s speed was miserable; Excel took 30 bounces in the Dock to launch rather than the expected 4-5. Novabench showed the Mac running at 4% of its expected speed (overall). The tech examined the sensor carefully, found the broken connection, soldered it back into place, and all was fine. Note that the (partially disconnected) sensor actually showed up when I ran Macs Fan Control in an attempt to work-around this. No problem controlling the fan speed then but the iMac’s running speed was awful until the disconnected sensor wire was fixed.

    barryjaylevine - Antwort

    Hi barryjaylevine,

    I’ve had my LCD replaced on my iMac 27 / 2013 and there is no LCD Temp Sensor cable on the replacement screen.

    I’m experiencing the same performance issues.

    I’ve ordered a new sensor, do you have any pointers as to how to install it?

    Thanks,

    Simon

    UK

    simon kennedy -

    hey Simon, I used 2-sided tape….this is assuming the new sensor doesn’t already come with an adhesive surface already applied.

    a roll of kapton tape for your own peace of mind will make sure nothing detaches from thermally-induced adhesive crystallization

    make sure you position it in such a way that you can easily plug the lead back into the mobo….not a lot of length to that wire

    placebomessiah - Antwort

    Howdy folks,

    Thanks for all the tips, LCD sensor fitted and iMac back in action.

    Never again!

    Simon

    simon kennedy - Antwort

    Hello all. So I’m trying to pinpoint my backlight issue on my 2015 retina 5k - I noticed I’m missing my thermal sensor on the LCD. Would this help with the backlight? I’m sure it will keep my fans from going crazy. Any help would be appreciated! Note: I have LEDs except the 4th one. Thanks!

    Jordan Shababy - Antwort

    Be careful when removing the adhesive residue!

    I didn’t know it, but I ended up leaving slight scratch marks that can be seen from the front side.

    Eric - Antwort

  25. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch, Linken Lautsprecher entfernen: Schritt 25, Bild 1 von 1
    • Entferne die beiden 10 mm Torx T10 Schrauben.

    I found i didn’t need to remove the speaker nor the hard drive. In fact I managed to remove the old PSU without even removing the chin strap. However, to install the replacement PSU, I had to remove the chin strap. So I would say, remove the chin strap, but you can optionally leave the speaker and hard drive in.

    Cool_Breeze - Antwort

    While you do not need to fully remove the screws as once you loosen them a few turns the speaker becomes free. I found that after the removal of the speaker, I turned it over and popped the screws out as this made it easier to replace it later as I could see the alignment before putting the screws back in. If not you may be off a little and you do not want to force the screw back in.

    James Orwin - Antwort

    I used a pill container that I got from Walgreens to hold all of the fasteners I removed during the disassembly process. The container has 14 compartments (individual compartments for each morning and evening of the week). I put a small piece of paper in the compartment with the fasteners to note the name and step of the procedure and the size of the tool I used. Hopefully this will be useful when I go to put it back together again.

    Dan Smith - Antwort

  26. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 26, Bild 1 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 26, Bild 2 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 26, Bild 3 von 3
    • Ziehe das linke Lautsprecherkabel aus dem Anschluss heraus. Achte darauf, den Stecker gerade aus dem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board zu ziehen.

    • Entferne das Kabel aus der Lücke zwischen der Festplatte und dem Logic Board.

    • Wenn die Lücke zwischen der Festplatte und dem Logic Board für das Lautsprecherkabel zu schmal ist, trenne es und lasse das Kabel an Ort und Stelle.

    I didn’t unplug and de-route this cable. Later, Step 29, has you remove the left speaker. This isn’t necessary. If you can just move the speaker over to expose the hard drive mounting screws, so if you’re not going to remove the speaker, you don’t need to unplug it.

    Anthony Zimmerman - Antwort

    on the 2019 iMac, it is horizontal not vertical so pull it horizontally out.

    tarex7 - Antwort

  27. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 27, Bild 1 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 27, Bild 2 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 27, Bild 3 von 3
    • Achte darauf, keine Lötverbindungen auf der Rückseite der Stromversorgung zu berühren. Kondensatoren können genug aufgeladen sein, um dir einen gefährlichen Schock zu verpassen.

    • Verwende einen Spudger, um den Netzstecker aus der Buchse auf dem Logic Board zu trennen.

    Can someone explain what are the solder joint? Or tell me what it looks it?

    brianyu - Antwort

    The silver spots on the circuit boards. You may not want to tackle this alone. If you touch these areas, you can possible get a shock -- harming you and your computer.

    Robert -

    there is no need to disconnect the speaker, just unscrew it and move aside slightly to reach the HDD screws (about 5mm) - if you want to replace just the main HDD

    Thomas Webb - Antwort

    Take note of exactly what direction this tiny little wire was.

    Joseph Ashe - Antwort

    The connector has a plain black side and the other side you can see the 2 silver connectors.. the side you can see the 2 silver connectors faces the front.. the plain side is to the back/against the logic board.

    paul.lynch1 -

    If I leave my iMac unplugged for an extended period, say 24 or 48 hours, is it still possible to get an electric shock from the PSU? Do the capacitors eventually discharge?

    Dominic Pettifer - Antwort

    you can do this method, or just wear latex gloves.

    Philip Sedlmair -

    make sure you’ve actually unplugged the mac when running this cable, and not had it plugged in to test the diagnostic LEDs, because one of those wee silver spots is carrying 230v, and its 6mm away from the place the cable runs, So if you have fat fingers like mine, that’s a free wake up zap

    flow in - Antwort

  28. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 28, Bild 1 von 2 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 28, Bild 2 von 2
    • Hebe den linken Lautsprecher gerade nach oben hoch, bis das Kabel zur Einschalttaste frei liegt (ca. 13 mm).

    This is MUCH easier to do if the support bracket along the bottom is removed first. See iMac Intel 21.5" Retina 4K Display (2017) Logic Board austauschen step 25.

    Use a P00.

    To replace it, introduce it like in the photo at the link to be able to hold the right most holes of the chassis and bracket. Replace the first screw, align the bracket to the horizontal and add the screws from right to left. Each one will bring up the next hole in the bracket close enough to screw through. Reverse those directions if you are a leftie.

    Andrew Gough - Antwort

  29. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 29, Bild 1 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 29, Bild 2 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 29, Bild 3 von 3
    • Schiebe das Netzkabelkabel vorsichtig aus der Nut des linken Lautsprechers.

    Pay attention: if pulling out the loudspeaker tear off the wire of the power button, Apple have not any service parts except for the whole rear housing!

    Fabio Braga - Antwort

    This is MUCH easier to do if the support bracket along the bottom is removed first. See iMac Intel 21.5" Retina 4K Display (2017) Logic Board austauschen step 25.

    Use a P00.

    To replace it, introduce it like in the photo at the link to be able to hold the right most holes of the chassis and bracket. Replace the first screw, align the bracket to the horizontal and add the screws from right to left. Each one will bring up the next hole in the bracket close enough to screw through. Reverse those directions if you are a leftie.

    Andrew Gough - Antwort

  30. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 30, Bild 1 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 30, Bild 2 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 30, Bild 3 von 3
    • Hebe den linken Lautsprecher gerade nach oben und entferne ihn vom iMac.

    • Wenn die Lücke zwischen der Festplatte und dem Logic Board zu schmal war, um das Lautsprecherkabel vorhin freizulegen, ziehe es vorsichtig frei, während du den Lautsprecher entfernst.

    • Ziehe an das Ende vom Konnektor während du den Lautsprecher entfernst, um den Kabel unter der rechten Abdeckung der Festplatte zu ziehen.

    I found it wasn't necessary to remove the speaker from the left side to remove the hard drive. You can remove the screws, and then slide it over to the left — giving more than enough room to access the hard drive.

    Robert - Antwort

    me too. don't need to remove it if you only want to change the hd

    Alber Einsten -

    Agreed, wast of time to fully remove the speaker.

    Matthew Gonzalez -

    It is difficult to remove the bottom of the speaker because it bends into the frame. Be careful to remove the power button cable, which also routes in a channel in the bottom of the speaker.

    Eric - Antwort

    easier to remove the speakers if you unscrew the front ‘chin strap’ - 6/9 phillips screws that you can see in the picture hold that aluminum piece in place

    flow in - Antwort

    Agree. This is MUCH easier to do if the support bracket along the bottom is removed first. See iMac Intel 21.5" Retina 4K Display (2017) Logic Board austauschen step 25.

    Use a P00.

    To replace it, introduce it like in the photo at the link to be able to hold the right most holes of the chassis and bracket. Replace the first screw, align the bracket to the horizontal and add the screws from right to left. Each one will bring up the next hole in the bracket close enough to screw through. Reverse those directions if you are a leftie.

    Andrew Gough -

    The trick with removing the left speaker is that you have to slide it up toward the top of the iMac (continuing to de-route the power button cable carefully as you go) to get it out from under the chin before you lift it up to remove it.

    ace - Antwort

  31. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch, Festplatte: Schritt 31, Bild 1 von 2 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch, Festplatte: Schritt 31, Bild 2 von 2
    • Ziehe das SATA Daten-/Stromkabel gerade nach oben, um es von der Festplatte zu trennen.

    Is the WD hard drive an Apple Special with some internal rom or other thing? Planning to put in a Seagate Firecuda 2TB. Is there some special plug or temperature sensor requirement? Seems like there is only the SATA connector. Will I encounter fast fans? (can load the software to stop that). Think it’s a swap and is “easy”.

    Carl Schultz - Antwort

  32. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 32, Bild 1 von 1
    • Entferne die beiden 7,3 mm T10 Schrauben, die die linke Festplattenhalterung am Gehäuse befestigen.

    If you have the iMac sitting upright, there is a potential risk of dropping the screws into the iMac casing. Be cautious or lay it down flat.

    Robert - Antwort

    Been there done that. Had to flip it and shake the heck out of it to get that srew to fall out!

    webmail54 - Antwort

    Left hard drive bracket screws are T8!! Had to remove HD first before derouting left speaker cable.

    Macrepair SF - Antwort

    Thank you iFixit for sending a T10 with magnetic tip. You saved me!

    Ben Hannam - Antwort

    The bracket screws are T10. The screws on the left side of the SILVER hard drive itself, are T8. If you seem to need a T8, you are actually trying to remove the wrong two screws. Look immediately to the left of the hard drive & you will see the BLACK bracket frame with two screws that use T10.

    jumpoverpuddles - Antwort

    I can confirm that some models are indeed a T8 on both sides of the bracket (NOT the drive itself). I have two 2015 A1419 and one is T10, the other T8

    Christopher Crogan -

    Bracket to iMac case screws,T8.

    Which is fine.

    Just as in the next step, T8 or T10.

    Mike Rehbein - Antwort

  33. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 33, Bild 1 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 33, Bild 2 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 33, Bild 3 von 3
    • Fasse die Festplatte und linke Festplattenhalterung zusammen.

    • Kippe die linke Seite nach oben und weg vom Gehäuse und schiebe die ganze Einheit nach links.

    • Entferne die Festplatte und die linke Festplattenhalterung vom iMac.

    Two notes here:  If you are using OWC’s Thermal Sensor HDD Upgrade Cable, be sure to tuck the cable under the hard drive slightly.  You cannot allow the connector to sit near the top edge since this will not allow the monitor to sit flush with the chassis when it is reattached.  Additionally, the SATA connector does not seem to fit together as snuggly as when it was connect to the HDD, so tape or a plastic cable tie to keep the connection tight may be good insurance to prevent it from coming loose.

    If you are planning on dual booting with Windows 10, the Windows 10 installed failed when the SSD and HDD were both connected at the same time.  I had to disconnect the HDD until Windows 10 was installed.  Note: I did a fresh install on a new SSD not configured as a fusion drive.  If you are planning on doing this as well, use packing tape (or something similar) to hold the monitor in place until after installing the OSs.  Then reconnect the HDD and apply the adhesive to the monitor for a permanent seal.  Good Luck!

    Walter Hayden - Antwort

    Hi Walter, i’m looking to replace the broken fusion drive with a SSD, do i have to get the OWC’s Thermal Sensor HDD Upgrade Cable?

    Gregorio Alvarado Sahli -

    Full removal of the speaker is unnecessary - just very carefully unplug the two-conductor power button cable, which is routed through the groove along the edge of the speaker enclosure. Next, unfasten the two large torx screws holding the speaker enclosure to the chassis. Now you can easily scoot the speaker away from the drive mount - move it over just enough to reach the drive mount’s 2 torx fasteners beneath the edge of the speaker (a CM or two). There’s now enough room to easily remove and replace the drive assembly .

    clinton - Antwort

    Just wondering if the HDD 3.5 (3TB) in my 2015 27’ 5K iMac case are the ones with the temp control firmware onboard. Just got quote from Auhorised repair centre for 2x the normal price of a 3TB drive. They say I can drop in one i source myself if I like but I don’t want to get it back and have the fans run all the time. Thanks in advance :)

    Declan Casey - Antwort

  34. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 34, Bild 1 von 2 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 34, Bild 2 von 2
    • Entferne die linke Festplattenhalterung.

    This step is unnecessary. Just leave the bracket in place and set the assembly aside.

    Anthony Zimmerman - Antwort

    On Late 2015 27” iMac I found that after removing this speaker, and the Right side one, I could reach under the motherboard and squeeze and disconnect the SATA data connector with a needle-nose and then remove the SATA power connector and slide the cable out from under the logic board without removing the board. The new cable slid in from the hard drive side with little effort.

    chuck solie - Antwort

    If switching to an SSD, the posts on the drive can be removed and used on the 2.5” to 3.5” adapter tray.

    Andrew Gough - Antwort

  35. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch, Netzteil entfernen: Schritt 35, Bild 1 von 2 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch, Netzteil entfernen: Schritt 35, Bild 2 von 2
    • Wenn du am Netzteil arbeitest, musst du sehr vorsichtig sein: berühre keine Kondensatoranschlüsse oder auch Lötstellen auf der Rückseite. Fasse die Platine nur an den Kanten an.

    • Trenne das Stromversorgungskabel von der Stromversorgung.

    I found this cable very difficult to disconnect, be very careful because the cable is between a black tape and it's stuck very hard to the logic board and the cable is very short and you don't have space to move and separate it from the connection! Be patient and take the time you need

    MrSchaeffer - Antwort

    I found than putting the flat end of the spudger at the center of the cable, and tilting it got the cable out without an issue.

    jimboom006 - Antwort

    I was able to use the flat end of the spudger on the sides. You can see a tiny little clip on each side. Be very gentle!

    Joseph Ashe - Antwort

    I simultaneously used the fingernails on my 2 index fingers to dislodge the tabs and continue to pull the cable out. It took a couple seconds.

    Eric - Antwort

    ultimately the trick for me was to just pull hard enough, but that part is the scariest part. any tips welcome

    Boris - Antwort

    These connectors seem pretty tough to remove until one understands the latch. Each side of the plug are two little sprung tabs (the tab is part of the spring clip which runs down the side of the plug on each side - makes sense once you see the removed plug!). Squeeze them in towards each other and then gently pull the plug from the socket. No great force, or even the spudger, needed once that is done.

    Pete Mackenzie - Antwort

    One more tip, has worked on other cables for me. Fish the skinniest spudger tip you have under the cable, and with a finger of your other hand put opposite pressure on the cable against the spudger and gently work it out

    Mike Fleming - Antwort

    If u are right handed, i can recomend to use your index left nail to press de bottom sprung, and a flat spudger on the right hand, came off so easy

    Davo Montiel - Antwort

    Davo Montiel's tip worked for me. Use the fingernail on your left index finger to press in the tab on the bottom side of the connector and with the right hand use a flat spudger to press in the tab on the top side of the connector.

    Dan Smith - Antwort

    If you have a insulated long nose pliers along with a splugger and can get underneath the cable WITH the long nose pliers on the RIGHT side of the cable, towards the logic board, with the splugger on the LEFT Side of the cable doing the same, you can get the leverage to GENTLY pull this cable out very easily.

    George Martinez - Antwort

  36. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 36, Bild 1 von 1
    • Entferne die folgenden vier Schrauben, die das Netzteil am Rückgehäuse befestigen (Entweder T8 oder T10- Schrauben, je nach Modell):

    • Zwei 23,7 mm Torx Schrauben.

    • Zwei 7,3 mm Torx Schrauben.

  37. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 37, Bild 1 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 37, Bild 2 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 37, Bild 3 von 3
    • Versuche nicht, das Netzteil vom Gehäuse zu lösen, es ist immer noch durch zwei Kabel mit dem Logic Board verbunden.

    • Bewege die Netzteilplatine in Richtung des linken Gehäuserandes nach oben, um sie aus der Raste am Logic Board zu lösen.

    This is MUCH easier to do if the support bracket along the bottom is removed first. See iMac Intel 21.5" Retina 4K Display (2017) Logic Board austauschen step 25.

    Use a P00.

    To replace it, introduce it like in the photo at the link to be able to hold the right most holes of the chassis and bracket. Replace the first screw, align the bracket to the horizontal and add the screws from right to left. Each one will bring up the next hole in the bracket close enough to screw through. Reverse those directions if you are a leftie.

    Andrew Gough - Antwort

    The top right screw on the power supply actually screws into a stand-off screw connected to the back of the iMac case. Once you have removed the 4 x Torx 8 or 10 screws you can move the power supply enough to see the upper face of it.

    It has a Torx 25 slot in it and comes out easily. This will give you a lot more room for your fingers in Step 40, depressing the tab on the DC power cable connector to pull it out, and when replacing it on reassembly. You may find it won’t require you removing the support bracket as in the suggestion above.

    John Blagden - Antwort

  38. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 38, Bild 1 von 2 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 38, Bild 2 von 2
    • Drücke die Lasche am Stecker des Gleichstromkabels herunter, ziehe es dann senkrecht aus seinem Anschluss auf der Rückseite des Logic Boards.

    • Wenn sich das Kabel nicht leicht abtrennen lässt, kannst du die Platine der Stromversorgung und die Hauptplatine gemeinsam entfernen.

    Remember to push in the disconnect tab on the large connector. Carefully insert your finger and push on the tab before you pull on the connector.

    Manuel Collazo - Antwort

    Thank you Manuel, this was a tricky one.

    David Zemsky - Antwort

    Yes, I pulled the whole socket out because I didn’t know about the tab. Fortunately I was able to place it back in. Not sure if it was glued or how it was anchored but it seems to have a solid connection and I can’t easily pull it out by hand. Once I plug the power cable back in should be ok.

    P. Hisada - Antwort

    This connector was very difficult for me to remove (even after pushing the disconnect tab). Eventually I had to use a pair of needle nose pliers to wiggle it back and forth out of the socket. A lot of the cables on the my late 2015 model were very tight and a struggle to get out.

    Anthony Zimmerman - Antwort

    I'm struggling with this step. I presume that the tab to which you are referring is behind the connector. I can see a plastic protrusion there but it does not move when I push it. Just to get my finger behind it requires the power board to be moved quite a bit btw.

    Dave Sands - Antwort

    Pressing on the release on the back with my finger and at the same time using a needle nose pliers to wiggle the connector with my other hand worked for me.

    Kimbo M - Antwort

    i could not get it out by the force of my fingers, so what i did was slightly turn the imac 90 degrees so i could reach the area better, push up (so, vertically) the power control board, push in the tab on the bottom of the connector with my right hand, and slightly wiggle the connector out of its socket with a plier

    Boris - Antwort

    removing the chin strap (the front bit of metal running along the bottom of where the screen was) makes this much easier as you can rotate the board and get to the underside

    flow in - Antwort

    Left index finger pushing on the tab from behind the connector, using needle pliers in right hand to rock up & down did the trick thanks @starfleet_tone

    Frédérick Charette - Antwort

    Just be careful! I’ve seen two systems where the socket was pulled fully off! So the logic board then needs repairs or replacing being just a bit too aggressive!

    Dan -

    Needle nose and wiggling worked for us too. We were stuggling like heck with it when just using hands!

    Mike Manasewitsch - Antwort

    This is MUCH easier to do if the support bracket along the bottom is removed first - more space to angle the board upwards. See iMac Intel 21.5" Retina 4K Display (2017) Logic Board austauschen step 25.

    Use a P00.

    To replace it, introduce it like in the photo at the link to be able to hold the right most holes of the chassis and bracket. Replace the first screw, align the bracket to the horizontal and add the screws from right to left. Each one will bring up the next hole in the bracket close enough to screw through. Reverse those directions if you are a leftie.

    Andrew Gough - Antwort

    I did as Andrew Gough did, per other videos reviewed. Removed it right away. Just makes things easier, more space for just a few screws :)

    Mike Rehbein - Antwort

    The top right screw on the power supply actually screws into a stand-off screw connected to the back of the iMac case. Once you have removed the 4 x Torx 8 or 10 screws you can move the power supply enough to see the upper face of it.

    It has a Torx 25 slot in it and comes out easily. This will give you a lot more room for your fingers in Step 40, depressing the tab on the DC power cable connector to pull it out, and when replacing it on reassembly. You may find it won’t require you removing the support bracket as in the suggestion above.

    John Blagden - Antwort

    I used your suggestion to remove the stand-off and then used my left hand index finger to press the tab while rocking the connector side to side with a needle nose pliers. Plug came out easily.

    Dan Smith -

    The tab is a pain in the a$$$ to get your finger in there. I was so horrified at the size of the capacitors that I put on gloves to reduce any amount of shock :-) . To get it loose I would pull out carefully the power board as far as I could than I wedge my index finger under and press the tab and slowly pull until I saw a slight gap between the end of the socket and the plug. I than place the flat part of the black spudger or blue one into the gap and use as it as a wedge to help move the plug forward as I kept the tab pressed.

    Andrew Phillips - Antwort

  39. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 39, Bild 1 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 39, Bild 2 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 39, Bild 3 von 3
    • Sei ganz vorsichtig und berühre keine Lötstellen oder Kondensatorkabel auf der Rückseite der Versorgungsplatine. Fasse nur die Kanten an.

    • Drehe das obere Teil des Netzteils zu dir, so wie wenn man einen Briefkasten öffnet, um an das Stromnetzkabel zu kommen.

    • Löse den Anschluss des Stromnetzkabels.

    To reassemble, do the same in reverse but keep power supply board more upright than slanted down when re-inserting it in to the lower right corner. The lower right screw post has an protrusion under/behind it and the Power Supply's small 2 wire plug must fit between the front of your Mac and the obstruction. Then it just slides right in and then screw it down.

    Dan H - Antwort

    There is a small release tab on the cable.

    Eric - Antwort

    Wear gloves when doing this to reduce any shock. The size of those capacitors are very unnerving and scary. Also those solder joints.

    Andrew Phillips - Antwort

  40. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch, Rechter Lautsprecher: Schritt 40, Bild 1 von 1
    • Drehe zwei 10,0 mm T10 Schrauben heraus.

  41. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 41, Bild 1 von 2 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 41, Bild 2 von 2
    • Rücke den rechten Lautsprecher leicht nach rechts, um an seine Kabelverbindung zur Hauptplatine zu kommen.

  42. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 42, Bild 1 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 42, Bild 2 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 42, Bild 3 von 3
    • Mit einem Spudger kannst du den Stecker des rechten Lautsprecherkabels von seinem Anschluss auf der Hauptplatine lösen.

    • Ziehe den Stecker nach rechts, um ihn aus dem Anschluss zu lösen.

  43. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 43, Bild 1 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 43, Bild 2 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 43, Bild 3 von 3
    • Ziehe den Lautsprecher nach oben und entferne ihn vom iMac.

    Did this tonight. I couldn’t get the right speaker out. But I was able to move it far enough to the right to be out of the way of the logic board.

    Kenneth Cluff - Antwort

    You have to remove the five small screws on the lower edge of the iMac to remove a strange bracket or something, like the 21.5” 2012->… iMacs

    Federico Barutto -

    Same here. 2013 27”. If you remove two of the tiny screws along the bottom edge then it comes out.

    Dave Sands -

    This is MUCH easier to do if the support bracket along the bottom is removed first. See iMac Intel 21.5" Retina 4K Display (2017) Logic Board austauschen step 25.

    Use a P00.

    To replace it, introduce it like in the photo at the link to be able to hold the right most holes of the chassis and bracket. Replace the first screw, align the bracket to the horizontal and add the screws from right to left. Each one will bring up the next hole in the bracket close enough to screw through. Reverse those directions if you are a leftie.

    Andrew Gough -

    During reassemble, route the speaker cable behind the two protrusions under the logic board. I am not sure if this makes a huge difference but that’s was the configuration during disassembly.

    Joe - Antwort

    As with the left speaker, you need to slide the speaker toward the top of the iMac to get it out from under the chin before lifting up.

    ace - Antwort

    For reassembly I had to undo the screws again, then plug in the cable with the speaker module slightly out of its final position and after that insert the module and fasten the screws.

    Stefan - Antwort

  44. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch, Lüfter ausbauen: Schritt 44, Bild 1 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch, Lüfter ausbauen: Schritt 44, Bild 2 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch, Lüfter ausbauen: Schritt 44, Bild 3 von 3
    • Mit der Spitze eines Spudgers kannst du den Verbindungsstecker des Lüfterkabels aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board lösen.

  45. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 45, Bild 1 von 2 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 45, Bild 2 von 2
    • Löse das schwarze Klebeband leicht ab, welches den Lüfter mit dem Abluftschacht verbindet.

    • Löse das Klebeband nicht ganz vom Abluftschacht ab - nur die Verbindungsstelle muss frei sein, damit der Lüfter ausgebaut werden kann.

  46. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 46, Bild 1 von 1
    • Entferne die drei 12,4 mm T10 Schrauben, die den Lüfter am Gehäuse befestigen.

  47. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 47, Bild 1 von 2 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 47, Bild 2 von 2
    • Enferne den Lüfter vom iMac.

    Use a piece of tape around the antenna cables to keep them in the same order, makes reassembly a little easier.

    Walter Hayden - Antwort

    On reassembly, start the fan power connector into its socket while you slide the fan in.

    ebay - Antwort

    I left the antennas attached to the wifi card and removed the wifi card with wires attached. I accidentally broke one of the connectors on the wifi card and had to replace the entire card....

    S. Baxter - Antwort

  48. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch, Hauptplatine: Schritt 48, Bild 1 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch, Hauptplatine: Schritt 48, Bild 2 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch, Hauptplatine: Schritt 48, Bild 3 von 3
    • Mit der flachen Seite eines Spudgers kannst du jede der vier Antennenstecker von der Airport/Bluetooth Karte trennen.

    • Beachte die originale Position der vier Verbinder beim Zusammenbau. Die Antennen sind von links nach rechts auf der Karte in dieser Reihenfolge verbunden:

    • Ganz links

    • Oben

    • Rechts oben

    • Rechts unten

    My iMac has a slightly different assembly. There are 2 - T5 torx screws holding little clamps for each cable (2 clamps per screw). Certainly more secure but another size screw to deal with…

    Greg Freeman - Antwort

    My iMac also same with Greg mentioned. need to T5 torx driver. A1419. Late 2015, Korean Version.

    Joseph Yang - Antwort

    My 2017 has long WI-Fi card, It’s It’s a M.2, cuz no remove antenna. Undo WI-Fi card fix screws and pull out card. Easy one.

    Tanya Chachanova - Antwort

    Before I disconnect the cables, I use different color sharpies and draw a different color on each one’s head & then I take a picture of the cables connected to the board. Pic is my reference of which cable goes to what connector.

    Macrepair SF - Antwort

    I have a 2017 and I agree with Tanya. There are 2 T4 screws fastening the airport card to the motherboard. It’s easier to remove these and gently pull the airport card straight up out of the motherboard while leaving the 4 antenna wires fastened. You can’t see the connector or the airport card as it’s on the back side of the motherboard but just wiggle it side to side while pulling straight up and you’ll have no problem. I’ve broken off those tiny airport connectors in the past and it’s no fun replacing them.

    Mike Jones - Antwort

    same as Greg, did with the torx t5

    Alejandro Piris Nino - Antwort

    I have a 2019 iMac and we needed to use a T4 screw

    Mike Manasewitsch - Antwort

    My late 2015 has a Airport/Bluetooth card secured with two T5 screws. After removing them you can just wiggle and unplug it from the logic board, without needing to fiddle with the antenna connectors.

    Robin Gottschalk - Antwort

    Same as the other comments, in my iMac 27” retina 2015, the WiFi/Bluetooth board is a bit longer and the 4 coax cables are fixed by 2 T5 screws…

    SURIN Dominique - Antwort

    When reassembling a removed WiFi card keep 4 antenna leads attached as mentioned by poster (tanya et al) when reassembling as you replace logic board keeping it tilted forward helps in aligning the notch on card for easy reassembly and T3 screws replacingonce card is firmly seated.

    robert - Antwort

    When reassembling a removed WiFi card keep 4 antenna leads attached as mentioned by poster (tanya et al) when reassembling as you replace logic board keeping it tilted forward helps in aligning the notch on card for easy reassembly and T3 screws replacingonce card is firmly seated.

    robert - Antwort

    Can also confirm it for a Late 2015 iMac, there’s just 2 T3 screws to remove, simple move out the WiFi/Bluetooth board and let cable on place.

    tomax - Antwort

  49. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 49, Bild 1 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 49, Bild 2 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 49, Bild 3 von 3
    • Das ist eine sehr empfindliche Verbindung, die leicht kaputt gehen kann.

    • Klappe die Metallhalterung auf dem iSight Kamerakabel nach oben.

    • Ziehe den Stecker des Kamerakabels senkrecht aus dem Anschluss nach oben.

    During disassembly, I taped the cable up and out of the way, as it tends to get in front of things.

    Tony Ross - Antwort

    I recall comments here about this being particularly sensitive. I had an issue with no iSight on rebuild, however taking to bits again and seating and reseating this connector a few times resulted in the iSight camera working again (phew).

    Amuseme - Antwort

  50. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 50, Bild 1 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 50, Bild 2 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 50, Bild 3 von 3
    • Mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers kannst du den Verbinderdes Kopfhörerkabels aus seinem Anschluss lösen.

    • Schiebe das Kabel vorsichtig zur Seite.

    On my 2017 iMac there is a tiny little cable and connector on the motherboard that is approximately half way along the motherboard and is connected down towards the base of the case. It came free easily when I removed my motherboard but just wanted to remind people to reconnect!

    Stuart Swaffer - Antwort

    It’s the microphone cable!

    Koen van Eijk - Antwort

    This pulls straight up, towards you.

    Eric - Antwort

    I broke mine…when inserted the speaker… How do I replace the headphone jack and cable?

    mmx2000 - Antwort

    Lift upwards with the spudger/fingernail, rocking it up back and forth.

    (For those who have not seen this style of connector.)

    Mike Rehbein - Antwort

    +1 Missing the step on this 2019 iMac 27” guide to remove mic cable. It’s in other guides, just not here.

    joe - Antwort

    I cannot determine how to reconnect the headphone jack cable to the logic board. Are there better pictures anywhere that I could access?

    Ron Owens - Antwort

  51. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 51, Bild 1 von 2 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 51, Bild 2 von 2
    • Entferne folgende Schrauben von der Vorderseite der Hauptplatine:

    • Zwei 23,7 mm T10 Schrauben

    • Vier 7,4 mm T10 Schrauben

    • Einen 20,8 mm T25 Abstandshalter

    • Eine unverlierbare T10 Schraube

    • Diese Schraube befindet sich unter einem Loch in der Hauptplatine. Du benötigst einen festen Schraubendreher oder die 60 mm Verlängerung aus einem iFixit Schraubendreherkit, um dranzukommen.

    The central screw is very difficult to reach! Use a long and very thin T10 screw driver

    MrSchaeffer - Antwort

    On my late 2015 there is another T10 (approx 16 mm long) on the lower edge slightly left of the hole in the logic board giving a total of 4 screws along the bottom edge.

    Konrad Skeri Ekblad - Antwort

    I’ve also found an extra T10 in my late 2015 iMac

    luis - Antwort

    My 2017 has small flat cable and connector on logic board. And all screws are changed to T 9

    Tanya Chachanova - Antwort

    Note: the T25 spacer is behind and to the left of the logic board and below the HDD bracket.

    Tom - Antwort

    My 2017 had all T8’s, including the captive screw beneath the motherboard

    Mike Jones - Antwort

    My 2017 had 4 T8 screws along the bottom of the logic board, not 3

    greg - Antwort

    Late 2015 iMac - mine had all T8 screws and 4 along the bottom row

    Pete Mackenzie - Antwort

    On 2019 iMac

    Red = T8

    Orange = T8

    Green = T8

    Yellow = T25

    Mike Manasewitsch - Antwort

    In 2017 too.

    Andrew Gough -

    2017 here.

    IMPORTANT - note Tanya’s comment. The narrow flat cable in the middle - it’s the mic cable on a *tiny* ZIF. See iMac Intel 21.5" Retina 4K Display (2017) Logic Board austauschen

    Also has the extra bolt middle lower edge.

    All T8 except the yellow T25.

    Andrew Gough - Antwort

    In my iMac 27” retina 2015 all screws are T8.

    There is also an another T8 screw between the left and central “orange” on bottom of the CPU board

    SURIN Dominique - Antwort

    Just completed and removed logic board. All my screws were T6. The screw beneath is a captive screw, stays retained in the fixture after unscrewing.

    Keith Thomas - Antwort

    If I change the logic card on an imac 27’ 2020, will the computer's memory be affected?

    nizarishi - Antwort

    There is a 25T stand off that is not listed. It is not on the board but beside or underneath the yellow/red on power supply side.

    Tom Gordon - Antwort

  52. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 52, Bild 1 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 52, Bild 2 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 52, Bild 3 von 3
    • Das SATA Festplattenkabel kann im Moment noch nicht entfernt werden, wird jedoch das Entfernen des Logic Boards behindern.

    • Ziehe das Kabel und den Verbinder durch die rechte Festplattenklammer. Lege das Kabel auf die rechte Seite des iMac weg vom Abluftschacht.

    Anyone know if models that shipped with only a bladed SSD have the SATA cable still inside? I’m guessing probably not, but haven’t been able to confirm anywhere.

    Jesse Mitchell - Antwort

    The cable was so stiff, I didn’t try to pull it through the bracket. Instead I removed the upper screw holding the right HDD bracket in place. Then I rotated it counter clockwise enough to just move the cable behind it and out of the way. Once I did that, I screwed the bracket back into place. I reversed the process when I put the machine back together. It’s a Torx-10 BTW.

    Kenneth Cluff - Antwort

    Excellent tip, Kenneth! I did the same, made things easier.

    Dave Hoppenrath - Antwort

    Jesse, no SATA cable inside. My iMac came only with the blade SSD and an empty HDD bay, so I have to buy the SATA cable separately.

    mveras1972 - Antwort

    the card drive cable is affixed to the heat sink with some sort of adhesive. If it is not placed back similarly, the system cannot sense the heat sink temperature, and the fan will run at full speed continuously. I used double sided tape and pushed it back in adhered position after re-attaching logic board.

    labah - Antwort

    the above should read “the hard drive cable” , not card drive (typo)!

    labah - Antwort

  53. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 53, Bild 1 von 1
    • Drehe zwei 5,7 mm T10 Schrauben aus dem oberen Teil der Kühleröffnung.

    My model (2015) had another screw holding the heatsink duct and a stand-off holding the whole thing attached to the back. Even gently moving the logic board almost got the duct damaged till I realised what was going on so I’d suggest to be careful and DO NOT pull the logic board if it looks like it’s still attached - most likely it is!

    Carlos Ferrari - Antwort

    Carlos,

    I am at a bit of a loss. I have a 2015 as well and removed everything else, but the motherboard is still not moving. I found the two, as shown in the picture, but can't find a third one anywhere on or around the heatsink duct. Any help is sincerely appreciated.

    Marc

    MarcW58 -

    Ditto for the 2013 27”. One extra screw

    Dave Sands - Antwort

    My model 2546 late 2012 has 2 screws on heat sink shroud. First is on left side. The right can only be accessed with board tilted out a bit.

    Michael Wright - Antwort

    I just finished disassembling a late 2017 27” Retina and for the life of me I couldn’t get the logic board to come out. What. I discovered was that there is a part of the heat sink shroud that is held in place by a stand off boss for the power supply. You will need to remove the stand off boss using a T25. Remove carefully and save for reassembly…

    David Brix - Antwort

    Same here for late 2014.

    Jamuel Starkey -

    Yes, there is a screw holding down the fan shroud it is an angled black part where the guy's left hand index finger is located in Step 56

    Carl Schultz - Antwort

  54. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 54, Bild 1 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 54, Bild 2 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 54, Bild 3 von 3
    • Kippe die Platine leicht nach vorne.

    • Hebe die Platine nach oben und aus dem iMac heraus. Sei vorsichtig dass du an keinen Schrauben kratzt die im Gehäuseinneren hervorstehen.

    You should add a step about removing the sata cable here. When following the directions in reverse I forgot to put in back on and had to remove the motherboard again.

    Ken Prows - Antwort

    If you are having a hard time removing it, you might have forgot to remove the spacer rod when you removed all the motherboard screws. In my case, it was a T20.

    Eric - Antwort

    The 2017 iMac has a small cable with a ZIF connector coming from the bottom of the machine that needs to be detached from the logic board before it can be removed.

    greg - Antwort

    I can confirm this. As i recognized the cable after i removed the logic board i had some trouble to find the spot where to plug it in.

    sebastian.wittl -

    If you are having a hard time removing it, you might have forgot to remove the spacer rod when you removed all the motherboard screws. In my case, it was a T20. This is in my late 2015 the case. Just like Eric said 11-01-2020.

    John - Antwort

    Same for late 2012. For those curious the spacer is just to the left and appears to attach to the heat sink.

    skiingjoo -

    The iMac 27” didn’t come with the PCIe SSD card so of course there wasn’t the necessary screw to mount one.

    Here is the screw to order;

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/283482947478?ch...

    What I did was find a screw that fit. Happened to be the case screw from the iFixit external 2.5” case but since that was a countersunk screw, I fabricated a washer for it.

    Mike Rehbein - Antwort

  55. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 55, Bild 1 von 2 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 55, Bild 2 von 2
    • Beim späteren Zusammenbau musst du darauf achten, dass alle äusseren I/O Ports sauber in die Öffnungen passen. Die Hauptplatine könnte schief sitzen, sogar wenn alle Schrauben befestigt sind.

    • Du kannst einen USB Stecker oder ein Ethernetkabel benutzten, um den korrekten Sitz des Logis Boards zu gewährleisten während du es festschraubst.

    To help me line up the IO ports, I filled all the USB ports on the back with thumb drives before I screwed the Logic board back down. Worked like a charm!

    Alex Grayson - Antwort

    Ugh! Wish I saw this before. I did this mod and failed to do this step and now only one Thunderbolt 3 port works at a time and the SD card has to get pushed way further to get it to read. I hate taking this thing apart!

    scolvin - Antwort

    Thanks Alex :)

    Mike Rehbein - Antwort

    iMac (Retina 5K, 27-inch, 2017) の場合、Thunderbolt 3(USB-C)ポートの位置がシビアです。

    Ethernet、USB 3ポート、Thunderbolt 3(USB-C)へ最低でも各1本(合計3本)を差し込んだままの状態でロジックボードのネジを閉めるようにすることを強くおすすめします。

    EthernetケーブルとUSBメモリの2本を挿して調整し組み上げましたが、最終的にThunderbolt 3(USB-C)が刺さらないことが後で判明し、結果組み直しをしなくてはいけませんでした。

    For iMac (Retina 5K, 27-inch, 2017), the location of the Thunderbolt 3 (USB-C) port is severe.

    It is highly recommended to close the logic board screws with at least one cable each (total of three) plugged into the Ethernet, USB 3 port, and Thunderbolt 3 (USB-C).

    I plugged in two Ethernet cables and a USB memory stick, adjusted and assembled the board, but in the end I found out later that the Thunderbolt 3 (USB-C) would not stick, so I had to reassemble the board.

    Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)

    JapanWolf - Antwort

    貴重な情報ありがとうございました!

    Midori Doi -

    I do this job fairly frequently and I have a small box in my iMac tool kit containing a headphone jack, four USB drives, a short two-ended Thunderbolt cable and the end of a red moulded Ethernet cable to keep things aligned from the back when screwing the logic board back into place.

    I loosely screw all the screws in, then tighten them gradually, going round the board several times to make sure it lands in exactly the right position.

    John Blagden - Antwort

  56. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch, SATA Kabel: Schritt 56, Bild 1 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch, SATA Kabel: Schritt 56, Bild 2 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch, SATA Kabel: Schritt 56, Bild 3 von 3
    • Ziehe den Verbindungsstecker der SATA Stromversorgung nach oben und trenne ihn ab.

    • Drücke auf die Sicherungslasche am SATA Datenkabelstecker und ziehe den Stecker nach oben ab.

    • Entferne das SATA Kabel vom Logic Board, damit es nicht beschädigt wird.

    Where is this cable sold

    mert - Antwort

    Is this picture correct with 7 pins? Or is it form the 5k version? (See comments on that case below).

    There is an cable on eBay with 5 pins.

    Steve Nilsen - Antwort

    This guide was written the year before the 5K model first came out. The cable in the photo is definitely for the model listed, although it’s always possible Apple made more than one variation.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Hey, if you got this far and your iMac is getting along in years, maybe pick up a BR2032 battery and replace the PRAM battery while you’re at it, as you have to get to this point to access it.

    Tom - Antwort

    I'm waiting on the battery now! I have a CR2032 in the house, but I looked them up, and they're too different to make me comfortable using one. And I accidentally ordered the BR3032, AAAGH. Sigh. Stupid Amazon put them side by side, and I clicked on the wrong one. :) Must've been Amazon's fault. :) But for sure, I was looking at my computer in pieces, and I looked at that battery, and I thought, wait, when was this thing built? 2017? Um. Might be time for a change.

    Patrick Vickers -

    Tom, great tip on the battery. I put a new one in my 3½ year old iMac.

    Dave Hoppenrath - Antwort

    Could have used a warning that this cable is not present in models that shipped with a SSD. I was replacing my blade SSD and adding a new SSD at the same time, only to find that I was missing this cable while my iMac was in pieces. Had to reassemble it without adding the SATA SSD, major hassle.

    Matt Stamm - Antwort

    This is a bit of a grey space.

    Clearly you don’t need the cable if you are replacing the HDD or switching it out of a SSD. Its only when you are enhancing your system by adding a drive which you didn’t have before.

    Dan -

    Hello congratulations on your ssd blade upgrade. Have you used the owc blade or a samsung + adaptor? Regarding the cable, do you know if we can buy the cable and plug it into the logic bard so to add another ssd in the aluminum frame ? thanks a lot have a niceday

    Patrick -

    @patrick7508 - I encourage you to stick with a pin-compatible drive not use a M.2 adapter as they are not reliable and some drives are not compatible. Stick with a real Apple drive or OWC. Just think of the work you needed to do just to get to the drive.

    Dan -

  57. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch, Blade SSD: Schritt 57, Bild 1 von 1
    • Entferne die einzelne 5,3 mm T8 Schraube, die die SSD am Logic Board befestigt.

    What type och screw is this? I just need the measurements, is it a standard M-size screw?

    Peter - Antwort

    Did you find out any details about the screw in the end?

    djones -

    I am also searching for the right screw. There wasn’t one there before as there was no M.2 SSD there before (late 2015 iMac with HDD configuration). It’s definitely smaller than the T8 Torx’s I have been taking out so far.

    Boris -

    I bought the 1TB PCIe SSD for my 5K iMac (late 2015). Worked like a charm without any hiccups; great vendor: https://beetstech.com/product/solid-stat...

    Shaheen Ghiassy - Antwort

    I have bought an iMac 2015 with 3TB Fusion drive, from which the SSD blade was out of order.
    A serviceman had split the Fusion drive and the iMac ran on HDD only. Awfully slow...
    On the top of it the boot time was very long since the bootloader waited 3 minutes for the defective SSD to show up.
    Since I had an Apple 121GB blade from an upgrade on a Macbook Air I replaced the SSD.
    Now my iMac boots directly from the 121GB blade (AFPS), lightning fast. The 3TB HDD is HFS+ and holds my user files and Time Machine.

    Laszlo Lebrun - Antwort

  58. iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 58, Bild 1 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 58, Bild 2 von 3 iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546Blade  SSD Austausch: Schritt 58, Bild 3 von 3
    • Der Anschluss der SSD darf nicht beschädigt werden, hebe das Ende der SSD deswegen nicht mehr als etwa 15˚ an.

    • Hebe die SSD leicht an und ziehe sie aus ihrem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board.

    • Achte beim Wiedereinbau darauf, dass die SSD richtig im Anschluss sitzt, bevor du die Schraube anziehst.

    this ssd is not for a late 2013!

    this is 2012 year

    cslbox - Antwort

    What do you mean? I'm going to buy a ssd to add it in my imac 27 late 2013 the came without it.

    Which part I need?

    MrSchaeffer -

    I think what he meant to say is the SSD shown (Samsun) is for a late 2013. The 2014 iMac uses a Sandisk unit (see the 5k teardown).

    Ifixit have made the mistake of referencing the late 2013 iMac teardown photos here.

    Brent -

    Not get confused! Apple used different vendors of their SSD’s both SanDisk & Samsung supplied SSD’s in this series.

    Dan -

    Which SSD is used in this tutorial?

    Lok - Antwort

    For the 2012 iMac 27”, I can confirm the Blade SSD is an 8+18 pin SSDD and I believe this is a SATA drive, NOT a PCIe (NVMe) drive. I took my 2012 apart to try to add an NVMe drive with 2013 macbook adapter, and it does not fit. I didn’t have an adapter that worked so I just replaced the 3.5” HDD with a 2TB SATA 2.5” SSD and left the blade slot empty.

    The SSD drives available from OWC have speeds consistent with SATA drives, so I think the benefit of replacing or filling the blade slot are pretty minimal unless you’re really trying to maximize your available storage space, in which case it’s likely better to invest in an external or network attached solution.

    TL;DR 2012 iMac is an 8+18 pin setup that is likely SATA, not PCI-E so just replace the HDD with a big SATA drive.

    Jakegub - Antwort

    Here’s a good source of info The Ultimate Guide to Apple’s Proprietary SSDs And BeetsTech is a good source for the SSD’s

    Dan - Antwort

    iMac 27” 2019!

    I did it ;-) and ist works fine … but I had no microfon after reinstall. I had put the adhesive strips over the mic holes.

    So I need to open again with a new pair of adhesive strips ;-)

    I Have installed a Samsung NVME SSD 970 EVO 1TB with the “long” sintech adapter and a Sandisk Ultra SSD 2TB (SATA).

    Matthias - Antwort

    I am about to do this to my 27” late 2015. Haven’t decided on which Blade SSD to use yet. But I have bought af Crucial MX500 2 TB SSD SATA.

    I have read a lot of problems with the Samsung NVME SSD 970 EVO.

    Also read a lot about needing a SATA cable from OWC (OWCDIDIMacHDD12) In-Line Digital Thermal Sensor for 27-Inch iMac, to ensure the fann does not spin uncontrollably.

    Have you had any problems with your setup with the Samsung SSD, and did you use the OWC cable ?

    Lars -

    I also did it with the same adapter, ordered for a few bucks from china.

    I’m usign the 970 EVO Plus 1TB, they have updated the firmware and it works out of the box.

    The firmware for older models can be updated directly on the mac with the updater from Samsung (can be installed on a USB stick and used to start the mac with it)

    The standard 970 EVO does not have had the firmware issues, just the Plus had in the past.

    For the blade SSD no OWC cable is required, that is only if a SATA-HDD is replaced by a SATA-SSD, thats a completely different thing.

    maccy -

    Is there supposed to be a heatsink attached to the replacement drive? I don't recall receiving one in the OWC package and I am seeing temps hitting 190 F (almost 88 C) under heavy load.

    Maurice Volaski - Antwort

    No heat sink on the blade SSD, you could add one but it won’t really change what you are facing here.

    It does sound like your SSD maybe to small (and/or your system needs more RAM) given what you are doing.

    Keep in mind boot drive (SSD here) is used for virtual RAM, caching and depending on the app scratch space. You want to leave at least 1/4 of the drive empty for best performance. 256 GB or smaller drives will need 1/3 reserved.

    Dan -

    How to boot the system after replacing the ssd? Where is the recovery partition? I have followed all the steps but the screen is black and not even the question mark is displayed.

    LETRA - Antwort

    Then you have an issue with your installation as you should be treated with a flashing question mark. Check your displays connections and maybe see if an external display works. Did you use the proper tools and technique within the guide to lift the display off? Many people have damaged the display in the process if they don’t follow the guide to the letter.

    Dan -

    Installed a 2019 SSD in my late 2015 iMac retina, purchased from fast_macs on eBay AOK with nearly 1900MB/s write 1800MB/s read (ish). Also installed Apple 2TB drive too whilst I was doing it.

    Amuseme - Antwort

    The 2017 and 2019 SSDs should be the same (or very similar). Both are SSPOLARIS and the same generation. I’m in the middle of doing the same on mine (mid 2017), going from a 2TB Fusion to a straight 1TB blade.

    I purchased this one, based on the excellent feedback:

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/144429279418...

    orrelljet -

    If I install a new 2TB SSD to replace my HDD (2019 imac 27), do I have to install a new logic board SSD? I’d rather not have a fusion config any longer (S/W seems buggy - hence my fusion drive problems). I’d much rather have just the new 2TP SSD in place of the old HDD, if possible?

    Chuck Lott - Antwort

    Replacing your SATA HDD for a SSD makes a lot of sense! Any size will work.

    You should pull the blade SSD which was mated to the HDD to create the Fusion Drive pair.

    Dan -

    Thanks Dan - blade SSD to be discarded!

    Chuck Lott - Antwort

    Hola. Quería saber que iMacs de 27” pulgadas llevan ese tipo de conector M2. Gracias

    Jorge Yerbito - Antwort

    @chucklott I'm in the same situation as you were. I have a new 2.5" SSD in-hand and would like to just use that, and pull the existing blade SSD out. I think I have to purchase a SATA cable though, because the iMac doesn't appear to come with one. Is that what you did too? Any other issues that you encountered with your fix?

    kevinthoeng - Antwort

    Depending on what your system was configured with for drives you may have the needed cables.

    The low end config came with a SATA HDD as such you will have the needed SATA cables

    If you bought the Mid tier config then you have a Fusion Drive which is really two physical drives the SATA HDD as well as a small blade SSD which is used as a cache drive (not visible from within the OS or Disk Utility as a mountable volume) again you will have the SATA cables. But you will need to remove the blade SSD as it gets in the way.

    The last config is the high end which is where a much larger blade SSD is installed this is the only config that will require a SATA cable.

    These setups are independent of the CPU/GPU the system also offered.

    Dan -

Abschluss

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Entsorge deinen Elektromüll fachgerecht.

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Hello, i have a 27" Imac late 2012, with a GeForce 675MX and the 3.2ghz i5 cpu.

My Imac was shipped with a 1tb HDD not the fusion-drive.

Is it possible to retrofit a SSD in this slot: http://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/igi... (ofcourse it needs to be the orginal apple ssd, like in the macbook pro retina)

Thanks

-Mark

Mark Hummeluhr - Antwort

So i got a Late 2012 2.9ghz Quad Core i5 with only the 1TB harddrive and not the fusion-drive. Does my iMac come with the blade ssd slot? I have a spare 128GB Samsung blade lying around which i removed from my broken macbook air. Would i be able to connect that SSD into the blade ssd slot?

Yarna Gerba - Antwort

Hello, I used this tutorial to install a SATA SSD blade

http://www.microsatacables.com/sata-blad...

Everything is very fine, single screw SSD Apple was absent.

Restart no surprise the fan packs to bottom: I use this iMac for the free application "Macs Fan Control" which is apparently the only work properly with this model iMac.

http://www.crystalidea.com/macs-fan-cont...

Excuse me, this is a Google translation!

BULTEL - Antwort

Added a blade SSD - found a blade on eBay that had been pulled from a Retina Macbook Pro. I used a little anti-static high temp tape as I did not have the screw for the blade. The Apple part number for the screws is 923-0328 - ebay has them available.

Reinstalled operating system, and was easily able to set up the system as a Fusion Drive by first using Disk Utility.

giff - Antwort

Thanks for the part number - awesome!

James Walsh -

Hello, I have for some time due back to something more reliable, because with the SSD Blade my iMac coming more watch out! After some research it was proven that this bug is common on the iMac 27'. I therefore looked for one SSD Apple and more worries out of standby.

BULTEL - Antwort

Easy to follow guide but I had a real problem that I hadn't even considered until I finished and started using the computer. After following the guide to the letter I checked everything was working then I stuck the screen back on. BUT when I came to plug the external drive back in.. DISASTER! The USB and thunderbird ports hadn't aligned in the case properly. They were only out by a millimeter, and there was nothing to suggest anything was misaligned when I putting everything back together, but It meant I couldn't plug anything into the rear ports. Strip down and start again..

tim5 - Antwort

I initially followed this guide trying to install an unused Mac Pro (trashcan) SSD in my 2012 iMac, but found that the Mac Pro uses the same form factor as the 2013+ Macs.

Instead, I used an adaptor from microsatacables (p/n APL-RET-BLD), a couple sata cables, a sata power splitter, and tandem 2.5 to single 3.5 drive sled to create a fusion drive in my 2012 iMac with a 1tb spinner and a 256gb Samsung 850. As an extraordinary unexpected bonus, Disk Utility recognized this setup and took care of creating the Fusion drive for me. No Terminal tricks required.

microsatacables 2012 SSD slot to SATA adaptor: http://www.microsatacables.com/sata-hdd-...

benchmark info: I did not see an appreciable performance difference between the PCIE adaptor and the built in SATA port. The 850 benchmarked at ~292 write/507 read on the adaptor and 290 write/520 read on the built-in. I'm running it on the adaptor since the cabling paths worked out happier that way

Michael Maskalans - Antwort

Hi to everyone. I did this upgrade with the ssd blade but the iMac won't turn on. The first green light turn on, but when I press Power button, this light goes off and on again and never start the computer. I had installed two differents ssds and neither works. I think the problem isn't the ssd. Any idea? Thanks!

macnito - Antwort

What kind interface Ssd need use? PCE?

gkhelloworld - Antwort

Late 2012 27inch with 1TB HDD. I want to buy a Samsung 256 SSD Blade to put into the PCIe M.2 form factor and make it bootable. HDD will remain as a second storage option. Although is so slow that i want to throw it out the window and buy a 512 normal SSD Drive.

1. The PCIe runs AHCI 1.30 so i need a Samsung SSD AHCI Blade, right? Limited speeds up to 5-600MB/s.

2. What if i buy even a newer Samsung SSD NVMe (2000MB/s speeds), instead of AHCI, will that work? Especially with the new macOS Sierra, who is said to activate the NVMe protocol on the PCIe slot?

Cristian Talos - Antwort

my fear is that i will tear appart the iMac so i can get to the M.2 slot and i will be bottelnecked by the PCI 2.0 from the present 7 Series Intel Chipset.

Cristian Talos -

Hi - sorry, I'm aware this is for SSD replacement, but I was wondering - is the RAM installed by default in this new iMac 5K 27'' of 2017 single-ranked or double-ranked? Would this RAM-Kit fit: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B019FRC... ?

Thank you!

Matthias Gansrigler - Antwort

Wonderful documentation. Worked like a charm.

Gary Teichrow - Antwort

I installed a 256GB blade SSD from a 2012 rMBP. Set up the fusion drive with the stock 1TB drive for 1.25TB total. It works perfectly, no abnormal fan spinning or anything.

The iMac is VERY fast now because the first 256GB of used space reside on the SSD, and if you stay under the size of the SSD, ALL data resides on it. Verified by running several tests...

Desmo - Antwort

I bought this SSD: https://www.flexxmemory.co.uk/apple-mac-... -- it has a mSATA-like-but-not-exactly connector.

Gleb Dolgich - Antwort

is it possible to let the blade ssd away and only work with a sata ssd?

florian-lang - Antwort

Has anyone tried this kit? seems more expensive than “MICROSATACABLES.COM” kit link above.

http://www.maxupgrades.com/istore/index....

Peter - Antwort

Hello, yes I tested this kit (post of 27/01/2014 and 05/08/2014)

and the problem is that the imac does not wake up because the wakeup info does not reach the SSD. 3 solutions buy an Apple SSD (I sell one of them 250go)

Solution 2 Disable Standby,

Solution 3 Purchase an M2 SSD and an M2 Adapter to Apple.

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/fr-fr...

http://eshop.sintech.cn/mobile/ui/produc...

  (which I realized 2 months ago) and it works perfectly.

BULTEL - Antwort

I would ask if can I buy the iMac with a regular HDD and add the SSD blade later?

Ibis Luzia - Antwort

Hello, yes if you buy a 27 inch iMac!

BULTEL -

@BULTEL thanks!

Ibis Luzia -

Hi all. I have a 27” iMac (2013) configured with the BTO 500gb Flash/SSD blade on purchase, so didn’t come with a HDD fitted. I want to add one (either a high volume spinny disk or another SSD, I can’t decide yet!), but I’m wondering what parts I’d need. I couldn’t imagine that Apple would include the driving mounting parts or SATA and power cables for a machine that was ordered without an HDD. Has anyone cracked one of these SSD only iMacs open to see what’s what?

markbart - Antwort

https://www.thebookyard.com/product.php?...

Hello, sorry my imac is equipped with a HDD. But apparently all the 27-inch iMacs are equipped with the sata port and SSD blade connector.

BULTEL -

Hi,

I have a iMac 27” late 2012. Got a SAMSUNG NVME SSS 960 EVO M.2 500GB SSD for upgrade.

Will this blade ssd work for my imac?

If works can i just replace the ssd or do i need an adapter (like Sintech ST-NGFF2013-C adapter for 2013 model) So can anyone help me to get the correct adapter model no for the late 2012 imac 27”??

Thanks in advance.

napsteri4 - Antwort

Not on this model, no. There was a shift from mSATA to Nvme between 2012 and 2013, this model still using the former and the 2013 and newer using the latter. The common adapters you referred to won't work. You can purchase an adapter and use a standard mSATA blade but honestly for the same price you're better off getting an OWC Aura Pro 6G blade. Amazon carries them in various sizes and it's a direct plug and play with no adapter needed and they include the securing screw necessary.

johnnycashak -

iMac 27” 2019!

I did it ;-) and ist works fine … but I had no microfon after reinstall. I had put the adhesive strips over the mic holes.

So I need to open again with a new pair of adhesive strips ;-)

I Have installed a Samsung NVME SSD 970 EVO 1TB with the “long” sintech adapter and a Sandisk Ultra SSD 2TB (SATA).

Matthias - Antwort

I upgraded my 2012 2.4GHz Quad-Core Intel i7 from a 1Tb 5400rpm drive to a 1Tb SSD. This guide made the upgrade very straightforward, and I am very happy with the results. I used the drive and cable from OWC and the difference in speed is night and day!

Roger Edwards - Antwort

For securing the blade SSD you can use a bolt from the HDD but you need a washer (inside M2 outside diameter 5 mm), ‘cause the prices for these bolts on ebay are ridiculous (up to 6 $).

Jos - Antwort

This is the part where my repair came to a halt. I was hoping to use a screw of my hard drive for the securing of the M.2, but it seems to be smaller than t8. Now I have to buy a t6 or t7 screw, I can’t tell which size it is.. Any advice welcome! I have the late 2015 imac.

Boris - Antwort

Here’s the needed screw SSD Mounting Screw (x1) (12-M15)

Dan -

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