Einleitung
Diese Anleitung zeigt dir wie du eine fehlerhafte Frontkamera am iPhone 7 Plus tauschen kannst. Die Kamera ist Teil einer größeren Einheit mit Mikrofon und Näherungs-/Umgebungslichtsensor, die am Stück mit gewechselt werden.
Was du brauchst
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Schalte das iPhone aus, bevor du es auseinandernimmst.
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Entferne die zwei 3,4 mm Pentalobe Schrauben an der Unterseite des iPhones.
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Zeichne mit einem Permanentmarker 3 mm von der Spitze des Plektrums entfernt einen Strich.
Got to step 2 and realized the fix kit doesn't include an opening pick! Looks like a guitar pick, and I have those lying around. Is that expected? Looks like the pick is used in many steps below. There's a little blue crowbar that isn't mentioned in the instructions. Perhaps that replaces the opening pick?
Hi! I can't see which guide you were using when writing this comment. Can you reply here with which guide and fix kit you used?
I see you posted this in Meta. I hope it's resolved soon! In the meantime, a guitar pick may work well enough for your repair.
what fix kit?
My fix kit didn't include an opening pick either
My AliExpress refurbished screen came with a pick that has a coin-like circle that pops out, so no modification was necessary
It's not an Ifixit KIT if it doesn't include everything. You'll need to order the opening pic separately. Or head to Walmart like myself and look for guitar pics. Hopefully, this will work just as well.
No pick in mine as well. It’s really not clear that you have to order this separately when ordering an IPhone SE 202/2022 screen repair kit. Is this the case?
Frustrated, I ordered a compact package where everything was encapsulated. Useless suction tools could not separate the screen. If it is unable to decouple the screen, then why sucking suction tools you have provided.
For my kit the triangle pick was stuck inside the box with the screen not with the other tools maybe it's also there for you
Y’all are getting far, FAR too detailed with some of this stuff…. Measuring and marking the pick that you won’t actually use to open the device?!? lol that’s kinda funny. Just heat it up, grab a spudger, and the back just pops right off! The iFixit tech need to stick to the KISS method more often, you know KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID!!! Like l, for reals, I’ve been doing this stuff for YEARS and using iFixit guides regularly and this is just ridiculous at this point!
Will the phone still work if the sensor assembly on the back of the screen is damaged?
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In diesem Schritt verwendetes Werkzeug:Clampy - Anti-Clamp$24.95
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Wir haben die Anti-Clamp entwickelt, um Geräte sicher zu öffnen. Die nächsten drei Schritte zeigen die Benutzung der Anti-Clamp. Wenn du sie nicht verwenden willst, überspringe die nächsten drei Schritte und folge einer anderen Methode.
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Drücke den blauen Griff zurück, damit die Arme der Anti-Clamp frei beweglich werden.
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Schiebe die Arme entweder über die linke oder die rechte Kante des iPhones.
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Bringe die Saugheber am unteren Rand des iPhones direkt über dem Home Button an, einen auf der Vorderseite, den anderen auf der Rückseite.
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Drücke die Saugheber zusammen, so dass sie auf den Oberflächen haften.
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Drücke den blauen Griff vorwärts, damit die Arme wieder fest sind.
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Drehe den Griff eine volle Umdrehung im Uhrzeigersinn, oder bis du merkst, dass sich die Saugheber dehnen.
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Führe einen erwärmten iOpener durch die Arme der Anti-Clamp.
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Forme den iOpener so, dass er auf der Unterkante des iPhones liegt.
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Warte eine Minute, damit sich der Kleber lösen und ein Spalt entstehen kann.
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Wenn die Anti Clamp einen ausreichend großen Spalt erzeugt hat, setze ein Plektrum unter das Display ein.
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Überspringe die nächsten drei Schritte.
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Es ist leichter das iPhone zu öffnen, wenn du das untere Ende erwärmst, so werden die Verklebungen aufgeweicht.
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Du kannst das untere Ende des iPhones mit einem Haartrockner oder einem iOpener etwa 90 Sekunden lang erwärmen, dann sollte der Kleber weich genug sein.
Hello,
What temperature is suitable for removing the front display ? I bought i-Fixit ProTech which is not include the heating "roller" . Thanks for help
I was about to ask the same Question...
Ich habe eine heiße Wärmflasche verwendet. Das hat gut funktioniert :-)
I used a heated tea kettle and a tea towel, it worked!
I put on the furnace vent for 10 minutes to get it warm to the touch but not hot.
I attached it to the after burner of my rocket ship and that worked.
I used a water-filled ziploc bag, heated it in microwave. fast, cheap, worked.
Agree! Just did it for 2 times to make sure I didn't overheat the phone.
The most effective way to heat up the glue is to leave the phone in full sun - if it's available. In fact I would always wait for a sunny day to repair any glued together Apple device. The heat will be very even and the phone was probably designed to survive anything the sun can throw at it - although it can get very warm. (I'm in the UK) If you leave the phone turned on it will give a warning if it goes near the temperature limit.
I'm sorry but I tried both the hair dryer (for 3 minutes!) and the eye opener (also 3 minutes) and no luck. Not even a hint of loosening the adhesive holding down the display!! Do I send this kit back for a refund or what??!!
No luck, guys. 3 minutes of hair drying and 3 minutes heating up the iopener. What next?
Okay, a half hour later i finally got the screen loose, but not after super heating it for at leat 10 minutes with a hair drying and burning my hand trying to pry it open. Also, watch out for the power button because it inadvertently keeps switching the phone back on while you wrestle with it. More later . . .
. . . and now I need to buy a new phone!!! the cable broke as I was trying to unscrew one of the top screws, so thanks! I FIXed IT but Good!!!!
This part was actually much easier than I thought. I used a hair dryer on max for 2 minutes on each side of the phone, less than half an inch away from the phone, just on the bottom half. It was hot! Screen came right out!
I used a tube sock full of about 1 cup of white rice. Tied a knot in the top of the sock. Put the sock of rice in the microwave on 60% power for 1 minute. Kept doing this until the temp felt right. Put the sock of rice down, put bottom edge on sock, then covered w/ other half of the sock/rice. Put a piece of paper towel between phone and sock/rice to absorb any moisture. When lifting up on front panel, I rested the phone on the sock/rice. Worked nicely once I got the temp of the rice high enough.
(threw the rice away later :-) ) -
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Setze einen Saugnapf auf die untere Hälfte der Vorderseite , direkt über den Home Button.
Even with using high heat from a blow dryer, I had to put the suction cup over the home button or the bottom edge wouldn’t lift at all. That waterproof adhesive is incredibly strong.
As others have said, this part really stinks, but it’ll work if you keep trying. Agree with multiple rounds of hair dryer on high (did about 60-90s each time), and with having to out the suction cup over the home button. You don’t need a big gap to pry it open - it’ll be slight …
Patience is the key here. Expletives and patience. Like previous comments say, putting the suction cup over the home button (I used packing tape to maintain the seal) will allow you to apply force to the proper location to separate the screen. Good luck!
Get a suction cup pliers. It’ll make this part fun
iSclack EVO opened the iPhone easily even without heating with no fear of accidentally over-opening it like with a simple suction cup.
If you don't have the anti-clamp device, to prevent the screen from tearing open when suctioning it, I suggest some layers of tape around it and the back of the phone (the tape has to be stretchy enough to just minimise the momentum when separating the screen), or some big rubberbands
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Ziehe gleichmäßig und fest am Saugnapf. Es sollte sich ein kleiner Spalt zwischen Display und Rahmen bilden.
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Setze ein Plektrum in den Spalt ein.
Just completed a smashed screen replacement, this is probably the most time consuming part. Used packing tape to cover the screen to help create a suction surface (had to replace it a couple times because it pulls away after a purple good pulls ) Used consistent heat for about 5 minutes, then stuck a pick in the tiniest opening… and pry pry pry!
I failed at this step. No amount of heating, pulling, and rocking opened up enough of a gap to slip in even a knife let alone the blue plastic tool. That's with a phone that has an undamaged screen - just trying to replace the battery. Apple won this round :(
Be really careful here. I placed a sucker to the front and rear to help lever off the screen. However, the whole thing came away much easier than I anticipated and I ripped the front part completely away from the rear, tearing all three connector cables. New iPhone required.
Note that the opening pick they show here does not appear to come with the kit, which is a bummer! The plunger, the mini blue crowbar thing, these are too thick. I ended up using a really thin guitar pick.
Following careful methods can mostly preserve the seal and reusable. Won’t be as water tight but probably still pretty good.
Bottom edge is pull up with suction + separating tool. Use small precision scissor to cut any tape that gets overly stretched upon initial opening.
- For the 2 long edges, use an exacto knife to separate the seal from the screen. This keeps the tape on the chassis. Go slow along the long sides. Becareful to avoid scratching the paint on underside of the screen’s edge.
- Top corners have a thick sealed tape. Best to just use separating tool to twist it open.
In summary, top and bottom edge use separating tool. Side long edges can use exacto knife to gradually gently separate the seal from underside of the screen’s edge.
Intact screen, check. Tool kit, check. Hair dryer hot enough to make the phone too hot to touch, check. Following all instructions, check. Screen still in place and refusing to come off, check.
I heated, reheated, pulled and pulled. I simply could not get it off. Worked at it for an hour and a half, and I’m not a small guy. Yes it is hard to hold, but could get a grip. Just could not get it to budge. Off to the iPhone repair shop tomorrow. Anybody want to buy a repair kit and replacement battery?
After struggling for 30m, I looked up some alternate methods and found this helpful:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=25zAK5mG...
- I used a utility knife and pried up right under the home button
- the angle matters! I was trying to go too far down before going in. The top surface of the phone is rather thin, so you go in after barely getting under the chassis lip
- tilt utility knife left to right once you’ve got it under to work it in
- leave the utility knife in, and now add that pick
Pro-tip: don't be an idiot like me. Instead, remove the screen protector you have on the phone before applying the suction cups. Derp.
I struggled with a hair dryer at first and a singular suction cup. However, I tried putting packing tape on the spot where I put the suction job (even though my screen isn't cracked) and I was able to do it first try with ease. Definitely recommend packing tape.
Suction cup pliers. Dead easy
After successful screen replacement, returning to give my thanks here. Excellent tips from you all - if you’re using force, you’re doing it wrong. Heat, very very gentle exact-o knife barely down then fully under the screen below the home button … perfect. Slow and patient around the upper corners, and don’t forget to heat there as well! Thank you all!
The problems with this step are (1) not having three hands and (2) managing to hold the phone in a way that doesn't put reverse pressure somewhere else on the screen. Exacto knife was the best tip. It's a little dangerous. On a misstep you may scratch the screen or jab yourself, but it's what got me in.
I used a razor blade and plenty of heat, and it somehow worked like a charm at the cost of me cutting myself. Definitely be careful when doing this, I used the razor blade on the left side of the iphone then wedged in a small screwdriver and then used the pick to cut the rest of the material away.
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Schiebe das Plektrum entlang der linken Kante von der unteren Ecke an nach oben in Richtung der Tasten für die Lautstärkeregelung und des Stummschalters. Trenne so die Klebeverbindung des Displays auf.
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Halte vor der oberen linken Ecke an.
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I was trying to replace my battery, and accidentally cut one of the cords on my screen. I marked my pick, so i don't know how it happened.
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Setze das Plektrum an der rechten unteren Ecke ein. Schiebe es um die Ecke herum, dann entlang der rechten Kante nach oben. Trenne dadurch die Verklebung.
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Hebe vorsichtig den Saugnapf an und mit ihm den unteren Teil des Displays.
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Ziehe an der kleinen Lasche am Saugnapf, um ihn vom Front Panel zu lösen.
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Schiebe das Plektrum unter das Display um die obere linke Ecke und die Oberkante entlang, um die letzte Klebeverbindung zu trennen.
I did end up using just a smidge of IFIXIT adhesive remover along the edge before opening and that seemed to really help
I have been using the pointed tweezers to pull the adhesive strands apart and out as the display comes off.
This bit was awkward as to get a good grip I kept inadvertently switching the %#*@ phone on!
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Schiebe die Displayeinheit leicht nach unten, weg von der Oberkante, um die Clips zu lösen, mit denen sie am Rückgehäuse gehalten wird.
I had trouble sliding down the display and found I hadn't separated the stop enough.
When you are pulling the display downward, be very careful! I pulled a little too hard and the display cables tore from the downward (toward home button) motion. Now I have to replace the display! 😭
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Öffne das iPhone, indem du das Display von der linken Seite her umklappst, so wie wenn du ein Buch öffnest.
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Lehne das Display an einen geeigneten Gegenstand, um es gut zu stützen, während du weiter am iPhone arbeitest.
Nach RECHTS klappen - nicht nach links!
Als ich das Flachbandkabel auf der rechten Seite sah, hab ich mich auch gefragt, ob die das mit nach Links klappen ernst meinen, und das „Buch“ lieber auf japanische Art nach rechts aufgeklappt. Das sollte dringend in der Anleitung korrigiert werden!
“Up from the left” means lift up the left side.
Which is the same as folding to the right.
“Like the back cover of a book” explains it even more clearly.
Maybe it gets lost in translation?
Fold to THE RIGHT - not to the left!
When I saw the ribbon cable on the right side, I also wondered if they were serious about folding it to the left, and the "book" would rather be opened to the right in the Japanese way.This should be corrected urgently in the manual!
Hi Jim, the display opens from the left side, toward the right side. It should look like the back cover of a book. Hope this helps. Good luck with the repair!
DO NOT LAY THE TWO HALVES FLAT!!! There is a reason why the third photo shows the screen half leaning against a box! This really needs to be a warning in addition to the one about not separating the display.
If you're skipping the screen and taptic engine removal like I did, I suggest you tape the back of the phone to the table, and also tape the screen to the vertical object it lays on, so it stays still. That way you will avoid having to constantly readjust it because of the sliding of the housing of the phone when you're working on it. Be careful where you're putting the tape on the screen though, if you're doing it on the internal components.
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Entferne die folgenden Dreipunkt Y000-Schrauben, die die Blende des unteren Displaykabels am Logic Board fixieren:
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Drei 1,2mm Schrauben
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Eine 2,6mm Schraube
Is it really safe to lay the device fully open like a book? The cable leading to the LCD gets stretched across the sharp edge of the aluminum edge of the back cover.
Generally I'd say no, it's not safe. In reality I've seen a bit of variance in the cable length, and sometimes it'll be fine—but mostly I'd be prepared to prop the display up or hold it in place at a slight angle so it doesn't put too much stress on the cables. On prior iPhones it was easy to rubberband the display to a box or a can of soda, and something like that would probably work well here too. Use your own judgment.
You could stick the suction cup back on, near the right side of the phone, with the blue hook oriented in such a way that it becomes a stand for the screen. That way it won’t open much more than 90 degrees, and leaves both your hands free.
Mark -
The tri wing screws are so hard to remove. What's the trick?
I cannot remove one of the corner screws in this step and i have used the tweezers and the y000 tri tip and i am afraid that it is stripping it. is there a work around for this step?
@katmonday1 No workaround unfortunately. Make sure the driver tip is in good condition and fits the screw correctly. Seat it in the screw, hold the driver perfectly vertical, press down hard (and maintain it), and turn. It’ll come out. If it’s really stripped you’ll have to get more aggressive—try one or more of the techniques in this guide or get some help. Good luck!
A tip to remember which screw is which as the differences are pretty tiny: I used different colored sharpie fine-points and made a mark on the top of the screws before removing. I thought about having strips of tape that I stuck similar sizes to, but the coloring seemed to work more easily. I only did this for step 11 and it saved me down the road when trying to differentiate the 1.2 and the 1.3mm screws!
STOP! Before you remove Any screws, be sure to create several bins to hold the various sizes in… or mark them like Trey suggested. I failed to pay attention because I thought they were all the same… they are not. It is very hard to figure out the sizes if you remove them all and store them in a single location.
i had a piece of paper with the steps numbered that involved screws. I had double sided tape on the paper and the number of screws and thier position marked. This was so helpful in removing and then finding and installing the tiniest screws on earth. And i have TINY hands. I can’t imagine someone with large paws being able to accomplish any of this.
there is one screw thats 1.2 mm but its bigger than the others and will fit in no hole of the entire phone. i got it out bot now i have no idea where it has to go i tried every hole. can somebody help me?
what do i do if one of the screws dont want to come off
I was having a hard time removing one of the screws before I discovered the tip of the screw driver that comes with my replacement battery had already deformed. However after I switched to a better screw driver the screw came off easily. Make sure the tip is in good condition, and avoid those cheap drivers if possible.
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Entferne die Blende des unteren Displaykabels.
I am confused, please help. LOL the bracket, the very first one being removed. I see it has three screws the same size and one a different size? I've been trying to fix my daughter's phone and ordered a 0.6 mm Tri Wing screwdriver for iPhone 7 plus /Apple watch. It seems to fit the screws and it seems to be turning them although I can't see that well but they're not coming out. However when I used it on a smaller bracket with two screws they came right out so I'm thinking I don't have the right screwdriver I am at my Wit's End!! I have been working on this phone or attempting to for a while now. I cannot find a list anywhere of the exact size screwdrivers needed to Take apart an iPhone 7 plus. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
If your tri-wing screwdriver worked for other tri-point screws in the phone, then it should work for the screws you are struggling with! If it feels like the screws are spinning but not coming out, try to use tweezers to pull them out. I often struggle with tri-point screws, and need to apply some downward pressure to remove them. This can be risky though, as you do not want to strip the screw or damage components underneath the bracket. If you continue to struggle, you can give this driver and this bit a try.
Also be aware that the battery connector might stick to the bottom of the steel bracket. This part had me a bit puzzled at first. lol
Just gently pry the connector off the steel bracket to release it and be sure the connector isn’t allowed to accidentally reconnect to the board.
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Mit der Spitze eines Spudgers kannst du den Batterieanschluss aus seinem Stecker auf dem Logic Board heben.
on reassembly, make sure that the connector cable is back in place, along side the battery, and not up, or on top in any way.
I slipped a small piece of paper under the flap.
After this step it is worth jumping to step 36 and disconnecting the lighting connector assembly (indicated with the orange rectangle) and connecting the new cable to test it out. After attaching the new lightning connector assembly, reattach the battery, and try plugging it in to see if the new assembly works correctly. If it does, then power down the phone, disconnect the battery, and disconnect the new lightning connector assembly. Then continue. If it doesn’t work, this check will save you a couple of hours of work.
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Nutze das flache Ende eines Sprudgers oder einen Fingernagel, um die beiden unteren Displaystecker aus ihren Buchsen auf dem Logic Board zu hebeln.
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Wenn du nach dem Zusammenbau kein Bild hast, das Display nur weiße Zeilen zeigt oder die Touchfunktion teilweise oder ganz ausgefallen ist, dann löse noch einmal diese beiden Kabel und verbinde sie neu. Achte darauf, dass sie gut sitzen.
What can happen if the battery is not disconnected before the two lower display connectors?
Hello, by my expierence and what i have learned iphone repair videos you can ‘blow up’ capacitors which one in logic board, screen is sensetive with voltages and etc….
When I removed the lower display cable bracket in step 12, the top connector stuck to the bracket and became disconnected.
My replacement screen wouldn't sit in the display connector properly, (wouldn't clip in both sides at same time) so I made sure it sat on one and it was lined up and got a thin piece of dense sponge and placed that over the connector, then proceeded to install the connector shield and screen works perfectly fine without a hitch. Very good tutorial just earnt me £25 lol
have the same issue, sometimes it doesn’t sit on the left side, other time not on the other, the difference is iphone not starting at all or looping with apple logo reboot…
ibisiki -
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Entferne die drei Dreipunkt Y000 Schrauben, mit denen die Abdeckung über der Buchse für den Sensor des Front Panels befestigt ist.
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Eine 1,3mm Schraube
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Zwei 1,0mm Schraube
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Entferne die Abdeckung.
Posted a comment above on the first step. The screwdriver that I ordered Works taking out these two screens shown in the picture. However it does not work on the first bracket that needs to be removed. It seems that all screw sizes are somewhat different but I'm not finding a list showing different screwdriver sizes needed. Does this make sense? Could anybody please give me some advice on this thank you much.
What happens if you break “tear in half” the black tape stuff?
Unfortunately if you tear the black cable you will need to replace it !!!
Chris West the screwdriver that probably came with the kit was pentalobe to get the first two screws out to open the case. you need a .6mm Y tip driver for internal. its deceptively Phillips looking but is not it only has three blades in a Y, not 4 in a +
I called the y tip a triangle tip until I read these comments. Thanks for the correction
Hello is it if I put wrong screw can damage the board?
Care should be taken while removing the last 1.0mm screw, on the far right in the picture. This screw is screwed into another screw (or standoff) beneath the bracket. This standoff may come unscrewed and upon removing the bracket you may find the screw and standoff are still attached to the bracket. Do not lose this part if you decide to separate them , the standoff is not a normal phillips, and may require a special driver to reinstall. I used the phillips to start it back in, and relied on the screw to tighten it upon reassembly.
I know this is late bit a trick I use to put the standoffs in (had to do 2 cause someone lost the screws I was replacing) is to take the screw that goes in it srew them together loosely to give it a fake phillips head then gently screw both into the spot the standoff goes in. you can then take the phillips out (may need to put a spudger between the screw and standoff to keep the standoff down then use a tiny flathead to gently tighten the standoff down. its a few steps but makes life easier if you need to replace it quickly.
I was able to remove the first 1.0 mm three tri-point Y000 screw from the bracket but I cannot for the life of me get the other 1.0 mm screw undone or the one 1.3 mm screw undone. Any tips?
I tried pressing down a bit harder and I even put the first screw back in to see if it helped me loosen the other two but it did not work.
My screwdriver was doing the job up until this point, and I’m worried I’ll strip the screw if I keep trying.
Would appreciate any advice!
Dear IFixit: First, I want You to know I love your repair guides. I consider You to be the absolute best repair manuals available. But, hopefully as your friend I am going to point out once the bracked is removed a 2.0 mm Standoff screw should appear. It’s 1 of 2 screws holding the Antena Flex Cable in place. Rob
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Ziehe den Stecker der Front Panel Sensoreinheit aus der entsprechenden Buchse auf dem Logic Board.
Make sure that the orientation of the cable when you attach is correct! See the picture for the correct orientation. If it gets installed 180 degrees out(i.e., the ribbon goes up instead of down, then the earphone, front camera, and Home button will be inoperative. Ask me how I know!?! Worked great when installed correctly!
Thanks Kevin. I would be stuck if I hadn't read your comment!?! Great input.
That's save my life!thanks god!
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Entferne die Displayeinheit.
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Unterbrich hier während des Zusammenbaus wenn du den Klebstoff um die Kanten des Displays ersetzen willst.
When removing the old adhesive from the edges, duct tape can be useful. Simply use small strips of duct tape and your spudger to press the tape’s adhesive side carefully into the edges of the phone’s display and slowly peel the duct tape away from the display. The duct tape should pick up the remaining adhesive and carry it away from the edges. use the tip of the spudger to gently scrape away any remaining dirt or film from the crease around the edge and repeat the action with a new strip of tape to pick up any dirt, adhesive or grime from the surface. This should save considerable time.
Thank you for including a link to the iPhone Display Adhesive Replacement guide, this was very helpful!
is it really necessary to remove the display? the screen connectors are delicate and I fear re-assembly errors. I changed the battery and did not remove any screen connectors. no problems.
Due to the fact that THIS is the repair guide for replacing the DISPLAY it IS necessary to remove the display connectors. There is another guide for changing the battery -- you might want to follow that one.
Hannes -
I did not remove the display and ended up ripping one of the lower display cable ribbons when I turned the phone to remove one of the connectors. Be careful. I had to get a new display and move the Touch ID button.
I think that moving the replacement of the seal lower in the chain of events would be more beneficial. I'm replacing the battery, and stretching the adhesive tabs that held the battery in at a low angle kept sticking themselves to the newly-installed adhesive seal.
In the end, I wound up having to just remove the section of the seal along the bottom of the case :-/
If I'd been looking at the bigger picture, I'd have wanted to put the seal on right before reattaching the screen cables.
This guide does not show you the removal process for the top camera assembly. My screen looks like the one pictured but my replacement doesn't have the top connector or any of the front facing camera components and since the ribbon for the connectors looks like its coming out from underneath the display I can't see how to swap it over to the new display.
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Entferne die fünf Kreuzschlitzschrauben, die die Halteklammer des Ohrhörer-Lautsprechers halten:
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Zwei 1,8 mm Schrauben
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Eine 2,3 mm Schraube
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Eine 2,4 mm Schraube
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Eine 2,8 mm Schraube
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Mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers kannst du die Frontkamera aus ihrer Halterung heben.
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Biege vorsichtig das Flachbandkabel der Kamera zur Seite, um an den Ohrhörer-Lautsprecher darunter zu kommen.
How is this bit waterproofed on re-assembly?
The screen/display that I got, already included a camera/speaker. So I didn’t have to remove it.
I finished my repair and then started to use the phone again. I noticed Facetime was not working anymore (cameras, speakers and microphone was OK). I tried a few solutions I found on the Internet but nothing seemed to work. I open the phone back up and replaced the pre-installed camera with the old one I had on the broken screen/display. Closed the phone again and now Facetime works without any issues. I just wanted to pass that along.
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Entferne den Ohrhörer-Lautsprecher.
If you’re looking to continue on and replace the speaker mesh, take a look at the camera/cable replacement guide.
I almost forgot to clean the spring contacts, thanks for reminding me.
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Klappe vorsichtig die Kamera und das daran angeschlossene Flachbandkabel nach unten, um an die darunter liegenden Bauteile zu gelangen.
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Schiebe einen Spudger unter das Kabel des Umgebungslichtsensors und hebe den Sensor aus seinem Sitz.
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Schiebe die Spitze eines Spudgers unter das Kabel des Näherungssensors und hebe den Sensor aus seinem Sitz.
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Setze die scharfe Kante eines iFixit Opening Tools unter das Flachbandkabel der Frontkamera-Einheit am anderen Ende der Frontkamera.
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Heble nach oben, um die Kante des Flachbandkabels von der Rückseite des Displays zu trennen.
prying this up is sometimes difficult. I always keep a new one on hand incase. they are not expensive. if you separate the black strip, prox sensor will not work.
what if the black tape and the flex got seperated, is there a solution to get the earspeaker work gain? coz i tried putting the adhesive tape again behind the flex but still no luck.. what can i do?
Mac -
i think this just happened to me…
With this repair, you can just re-apply light heat to the front glass before removing this flex cable. The heat will transfer to the adhesive and will allow you to remove this flex cable very easily. Ensure that you have followed the previous steps so that you do not damage the ambient light filter and the proximity sensor. Always make sure that you pull very gently here as this is one of the most common damages caused to an iPhone 7 series. If the black strip sticks to the frame during removal, just make sure to put it back in it’s right place and you should have no issue; assuming you didn’t damage the flex cable. Always wear gloves. - TM
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Setze die Spitze eines Spudgers unter genau den Teil das Kabel, den du im vorigen Schritt getrennt hast.
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Fahre fort den Rest des Kabels zu trennen, indem du den Spudger in Richtung des Reihe aus kreisförmigen goldenen Ohrhörerkontakten schiebst.
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Benutze weiterhin den Spudger, um sorgfältig den Rest des Kabels von der Rückseite des Displays zu lösen.
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Entferne die gesamte Frontkamera und Sensorkabel Einheit.
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Zwischen dem Display und drei Reihen von Kupferkontakten auf der Rückseite des Kamerakabels/Sensorkabels ist ein Stück schwarzes doppelseitiges Isolierband angebracht. Es bleibt entweder am Display kleben, oder es kommt mit dem Kabel heraus.
Is there instruction on how to bend the cable?
You really need that tape, If still no sound after placing the tape in place, then you might have damaged the flex cable. Worthy to mention, that some replacement screens come without the ambient light filter (white film seem on the screen) and without the plastic brackets for the camera and proximity sensor, which in those cases, you would have to transfer those parts to the new screen. Also in some screens, the holes for the proximity sensor are not properly done and you might end up with a non-working proximity sensor. In those cases, just remove the pain with the spugger where the proximity sensor locates (removes the black paint) and then add some black permanent marker over it to make it black. That way, it will look pristine form the outside but just thin enough for the proximity sensor to work.
I had issues regarding sound after reassembling the iPhone. I initially used kapton tape. I could hear the caller but they could hear me. I checked every avenue I thought of, I recorded myself speaking which was fine so there was nothing wrong with the mic. I ended up heating the black insulator and transferring it and reseating the earpiece and flex assembly. After a couple attempts the mic was restored to normal operation.
yeah the mic and the earpiece not working , what is the solution for this problem ?
Do not pull on the cable an be gentle with the heat. There is a potential that the cable, which is soldered together on this part.
I had an issue with a costumers flex cable an the ear speaker stopped working bit the cable looked okay and I did not pull on it. So I used an soldering iron with a small tip, put some flux tape where the doubled-sided tape sits on the pads and soldered the cable back together at about 390 degrees celsius. It now works perfectly again.
After replacing screen, front camera doesn’t work. Replaced camera cable cable with a new cable; still no front camera. Rear camera works fine. Also, have a software “Home” button showing up. Finger Touch ID works and works as the Home button should as far as I can tell, How do I get rid of it?
Earpiece is also not working
So i had the same problem that the erapiece only is not working after replacement..
my soulotion was to reassmble all the flat out the there is a black double sided tape that need to put exactly on the back of the golden points behind the flat.
once the tape back on those golden tips it should work properly
Another thing to be careful of is the area where the black tape sits is actually two pieces of cable that are glued together and are connected by about 15 tiny contacts.
I must have heated the cable too much and ended up separating these two layers when prying… I put them back together but it must have not been lined up correctly as the proximity sensor and earpiece speaker did not work (the parts on the layer that came off), whereas the front camera did as that is on the same layer as the camera and was therefore intact.
I may attempt to re align the connectors again but I feel as though a replacement flex assembly may be the more appropriate solution!
I admit that this is my fault for overheating the component and not taking enough care, but what a weird design! Why couldn’t it have been one whole cable?
Did the replacement flex fix this issue?
is it okay to use electric tape in that case to cover the copper pieces? i installed everthing and the front camera works and the speaker works just when i make a call it turns off.. any recommendations?
why wouldnt it come with the tape on already? Im about to put electric tape because i dont have anything else.
なぜiPhone7Plusのフロントカメラフレックスケーブルには裏面に金属端子のような部分があるのでしょうか？
iPhone7やiPhone8にはこの部分がありませんが必要な役割がありますか？
After replacing iPhone 7+ screen I can’t call out or answer calls everything else works cleaned contacts with alcohol wipes put it back together and same thing the time is right I even updated the os since installing the new screen but phone reboots every time a call comes in or I dial out any suggestions
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18 Kommentare
Do I have to do this if i buy a new phone screen or do they usually come with one?
If this Speaker is Not Working or it has any Noise Issues, Apple will Replace whole Front Display Section. Under their Policy, they won’t repair it. Neither Fully Replace your iPhone, only Front Panel Replacement.
macktm -
Does 7 and 7plus has the same camera/sensor strip?
No, it’s a bit different.
The spacing between the metal dots for the earspeaker isn’t there on the 7+ model, but is on the 7.
Anybody got a solution to earpiece not working after ribbon swap?
Seems to be mega common with this repair. I’ve heard a few ideas but nothing concrete. More advice about this issue would be greatly appreciated by me and a bunch of people.
@linx7 Make sure the speaker spring contacts are intact and clean. Give the four circular contacts on the ribbon cable a wipe with some IPA and try not to leave any skin oils on them. Double and triple-check to make sure the flex cables are connected and seated properly and that the sockets are clean. Double-check the insulating tape as explained in this step. If none of that works, something is damaged or defective—replace the entire sensor/cable assembly and try again. Good luck!
@jeffsu thank you man, a few pieces of electrical tape and cleaning the connectors worked perfect.
After replacing the front camera/sensor/speaker cable, everything works. But I could not get the AMBIENT LIGHT SENSOR to work.
The AUTO BRIGHTNESS ON/OFF TOGGLE under DISPLAY ACCOMODATIONS is GONE.
I can only MANUALLY adjust the setting. It’s really annoying and disappointing.
Even after resetting the iOS Settings, the TOGGLE is still gone.
Any Suggestions?
I was also having trouble with my ambient light/prox sensor working when I got the other problems resolved. I turned out that screen’s black or white color Comes from a thin layer of paint applied to the back side of the glass.
I ended up taking a sharp pair of tweezers and gently scraping away the paint inside, right were the sensor sits. Viola the sensors can see and work again.
It left an ugly clear mark so I could under the glass, but since my screen is black a little sharpie blended it in fine and left a translucent window for the sensor.
I never had the buttons in iOS be disabled tho. Maybe the phone knows the sensor can't see, or it could be a bad cable or hardware. I'm not completely sure on the issue.
there’s a white piece of plastic very small to the left of the ambient light sensor that does not come with the new screen replacement. Do we have to transfer that into the new screen as well? the answer is not shown in this tutorial and I am having issues with the ambient light sensor.
yeah some replacement screens don’t come with those (2?) tiny brackets. I cant believe they skipped over it either… I dont think they come with this ribbon assembly either. On one build i had to pop the brackets off of the old screen (they we glued to the screen’s frame) and use a tiny piece of electric tape to hold everything in place on the new screen’s frame. It took a little patience but amb/prox still sit in place and works fine months later.
I accidentally separated the two ribbon cables. (Front Camera and proximity sensor) Could this cause a problem with the home button? Because, now the home button works only when the phone is laying down but after lifting it up and moving around, the home button stops functioning. Could it be that the ribbon cables were glued but now they are loose? Just asking to rule out the home/touch id button or the camera/proximity sensor cables. The cameras work fine by the way.
Hi guys,
i replaced this flex cable, because the old was broken and now my light sensor wont working, the button for auto-brightness is gone, all connections are checked and is fine, only the light sensor is wont working
I replaced this sensor cable put everything back together turned it on….just shows the apple icon don’t go to home screen???
i assemble new flex cable but still proximity sensor does not work
just take in mind that if you break the proximity sensor, both speakers won’t work anymore.
The recommendation of discharging the battery is completely unnecessary. Even a 25% charged battery can explode. Completely ridiculous suggestion.
pargoff - Antwort
The risk of thermal runaway on these batteries decreases with the battery's SOC (state of charge). Below 50% charge the risk is fairly low, and at 25% charge the risk of a thermal event is near zero. If I recall correctly, the same suggestion appears in Apple's official (non-public) service manuals for the iPhone.
Jeff Suovanen -
@jeffsu Yes, that is correct. Apple does require all certified staff to discharge the battery below 25%. This is an industry standard for all LiION batteries. If you don’t want to do this, just make sure to not puncture the battery and disconnect it first thing.
iHelpU.Tech - Antwort
Hang on a second here, doesn’t the Ifixit part I ordered come with the seals? The display assembly? It doesn’t. Now I have to wait another week?!
Vanessa Pinter - Antwort
How do you turn off if the screen isn’t responding to touch?
adam - Antwort
The replacement battery came with the seal—but how do you put it on???
lkollar - Antwort
Instructions for replacing the seal are here: Austausch der iPhone Display Klebestreifen
bester - Antwort
I just found the instructions on how to install the seals AFTER I was completed and had to figure it out. Maybe, just maybe you should link this somewhere on the guild instead of buried in a comment. Just a thought.
Charles Meitin - Antwort
Step 1 is: Read through all the steps and comments or the method prior to starting on this Step 1. There's a lot of much needed information and experience that you can learn from which will reduce the chance of struggling, wasting time or even breaking your device.
My favourites are:
Use a hot water bottle.
Label all screws you remove with their size and location on a piece of paper with double sided sticky tape.
Test the lightning assembly at step 13
There is a Standoff driver bit in the box, don't use a screwdriver.
etc...
Neil Eriksen - Antwort
A tip for looking out for all those little screws. I used an ice block tray, for all the little screws etc. I numbered each with the step number, as in the instructions, but not all steps have bits to look out for. Where two different size screws are used I had a tray for each size and marked step a and step b. For this I coloured each tray sticker with the colour of the screw as shown in the instructions. All this worked a treat with no confusion or using the wrong part.
Herb
Herb Adler - Antwort
The screw size for those with a screw set is P2.
Gareth Flandro - Antwort