Einleitung
Wenn dein iPhone Probleme beim WiFi Empfang hast, kann der Austausch der WiFi-Antenne helfen.
Was du brauchst
-
-
Setze ein SIM-Karten-Auswurfwerkzeug oder eine Büroklammer in das kleine Loch im SIM-Kartenfach ein. Es befindet sich bei der Seitentaste auf der Kante des iPhones.
-
Drücke fest drauf, um das Kartenfach auszuwerfen.
-
-
-
Entferne das SIM-Kartenfach vom iPhone.
-
-
-
Schalte dein iPhone aus, bevor du daran arbeitest.
-
Drehe die beiden 6,9 mm langen Pentalobe Schrauben an der unteren Kante heraus.
same situation here
Same issue with the stripping. The tip of the iFixit P2 head in my $70 kit just ground off on the first screw and that was that. Not much you can do.
yes correct the same happened to me, the screws were perfect shaped never been open and as soon as i used the P2 it stripped the screws, seems like the P2 is slightly smaller but Dremel kit with a very small drill bits and precise knife tool is the way to go.
This step in automatically followed through, without any thought. Why remove these screws? Can anybody explain? The Screen is detachable all the same, with them well screwed in…
These screws attach to a plate that’s part of the screen half of the phone. If you succeed in detaching the screen without removing those, it would seem reasonable that you will have damaged that plate or its ability to keep the two halves together.
Dan Long -
@Dan Long is right
Uri -
Clean out the pentalobe screw heads first so the tool goes all the way in. A small sewing needle works well to loosen any build up and then press some putty/chewing gum into the screw head and pull away quickly for a final clean out.
Never opened my phone ever, when I went to look at the first step.. I noticed one of my screws was stripped. I thought it was impossible, but I removed the non stripped one, then once I got to the stripped one.. I learned my assumptions were correct. I bought this one straight from the apple site years ago ahaha Any tips to remove the stripped screw?
William Olstad's tip about cleaning the screws with a needle and a bit of poster putty worked well for me. There was a lot of crud in there! The opening is shallow, so it's easy to see how the screwdriver wouldn't catch with even a bit of grit in the way, No problem getting the pentalobe screws out with the ifixit screwdriver.
If all else fails, very carefully cut a slot across the head of the screw with a Dremel tool using a diamond bit that dentist will gladly give you - I ask my dentist for used bits; and chuck them in a drill bit chuck designed for Dremel. The slot allows you to use a tiny, straight blade screwdriver. You can reuse the screw or replace it with a new pentalobe screw.
-
-
-
Zeichne mit einem Permanentmarker 3 mm von der Spitze des Plektrums entfernt einen Strich.
Got to step 2 and realized the fix kit doesn't include an opening pick! Looks like a guitar pick, and I have those lying around. Is that expected? Looks like the pick is used in many steps below. There's a little blue crowbar that isn't mentioned in the instructions. Perhaps that replaces the opening pick?
Hi! I can't see which guide you were using when writing this comment. Can you reply here with which guide and fix kit you used?
I see you posted this in Meta. I hope it's resolved soon! In the meantime, a guitar pick may work well enough for your repair.
what fix kit?
My fix kit didn't include an opening pick either
My AliExpress refurbished screen came with a pick that has a coin-like circle that pops out, so no modification was necessary
It's not an Ifixit KIT if it doesn't include everything. You'll need to order the opening pic separately. Or head to Walmart like myself and look for guitar pics. Hopefully, this will work just as well.
No pick in mine as well. It’s really not clear that you have to order this separately when ordering an IPhone SE 202/2022 screen repair kit. Is this the case?
Frustrated, I ordered a compact package where everything was encapsulated. Useless suction tools could not separate the screen. If it is unable to decouple the screen, then why sucking suction tools you have provided.
For my kit the triangle pick was stuck inside the box with the screen not with the other tools maybe it's also there for you
Y’all are getting far, FAR too detailed with some of this stuff…. Measuring and marking the pick that you won’t actually use to open the device?!? lol that’s kinda funny. Just heat it up, grab a spudger, and the back just pops right off! The iFixit tech need to stick to the KISS method more often, you know KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID!!! Like l, for reals, I’ve been doing this stuff for YEARS and using iFixit guides regularly and this is just ridiculous at this point!
Will the phone still work if the sensor assembly on the back of the screen is damaged?
-
-
-
Überdecke die Glasscheibe des Displays komplett mit überlappenden Streifen von durchsichtigem Paketband.
-
Wenn das Glas so stark zerbrochen ist, dass der Saugheber in den nächsten Schritten nicht gut haftet, dann versuche ein starkes Klebeband ("Panzerband") zu einem Griff zu falten und so auf die Scheibe zu kleben, dass du sie damit hochziehen kannst.
-
-
In diesem Schritt verwendetes Werkzeug:Clampy - Anti-Clamp$24.95
-
Drücke den blauen Griff zurück, damit die Arme der Anti-Clamp frei beweglich werden.
-
Schiebe die Arme entweder über die linke oder die rechte Kante des iPhones.
-
Bringe die Saugheber nahe an der Unterkante des Displays an, einen auf der Vorderseite, den anderen auf der Rückseite.
-
Drücke die Saugheber zusammen, so dass sie auf den Oberflächen haften.
-
-
-
Drücke den blauen Griff vorwärts, um die Arme wieder zu verriegeln.
-
Drehe den Griff eine volle Umdrehung im Uhrzeigersinn, oder bis du merkst, dass sich die Saugheber dehnen.
-
Achte darauf, dass sich die Saugheber weiterhin gegenüber stehen. Wenn sie sich nicht mehr gegenüber stehen, dann löse die Saugheber ein wenig ab und schiebe sie in die richtige Position.
-
-
-
Führe einen erwärmten iOpener durch die Arme der Anti-Clamp.
-
Forme den iOpener so, dass er auf der Unterkante des iPhones liegt.
-
Warte eine Minute, damit sich der Kleber lösen und ein Spalt entstehen kann.
-
Setze ein Plektrum in den Spalt unter das Display und der Kunstoffblende ein, nicht unter das Display selbst.
-
Überspringe die nächsten drei Schritte.
DO NOT separate the glass from the plastic bumper or rim around it. These instructions don't clarify that the pick has to be inserted between the plastic rim and the metal body. It is likely that the glass will lift slightly off the plastic surround before the plastic will lift out of the metal body. I had success sliding a card or pick back and forth along the bottom edge of the plastic rim while pulling on the suction cup. Eventually there was a space large enough for the pick to go under the plastic rim.
Thanks for pointing this out! I'll revise this step to clarify this point.
-
-
-
Benutze einen Haartrockner/Fön, ein Heißluftgebläse oder bereite unseren iOpener vor. Erwärme damit die Unterkante des iPhones etwa eine Minute lang, um den Kleber darunter aufzuweichen.
General tip regarding heating necessary to remove adhesive:
consider using a heated tip of a small screwdriver or metal spudger (not the one made of plastic, provided in kit), rather than to heat the device itself.
You then need to be careful about the temp of the tool which if hot enough can melt plastic components or harm them. Keeping the heat source (heat gun) far enough away from the object that you’ll eventually melt the glue but would be much harder to melt components. I try to keep 4” or 5” gap between the source & object
Thanks for the info. Could a air convector do the job
If you have a 3d printer, heat the bed to 80c and put the phone screen side down on it for 30 secs
thaks for this advise, I was looking for this as I dont have a heat gun haha, nice hack
-
-
-
Wenn du einen einzelnen Saugheber benutzt, dann setze ihn am unteren Rand des iPhone auf, wobei du den gebogenen Teil des Bildschirms vermeiden musst.
If you were using some form of screen protector, it may come off first as soon as you pull on the suction cup. Do not be alarmed. That is normal behavior.
3m VSB double stick tape will stick to the screen when the suction cups fail (see my comment on step 1)
-
-
-
Ziehe fest und gleichmäßig am Saugheber und erzeuge dadurch einen kleinen Spalt zwischen Display und Rahmen.
-
Setze ein Plektrum in den Spalt unter der Kunstoffblende am Display ein, nicht am Display selbst.
In addition to safety goggles, I would recommend you also wear good gloves to avoid getting cut with the glass as you try to pry it open.
The top about applying more heat and gently rocking the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive did the trick for me. Thank you!
There needs to be more clarity on where to shove the opening pick into. There is actually two openings that the pry tool can be forced into: one below the black plastic bezel, and one above the black plastic bezel. When I heated my screen with a warming pad and pulled up the suction cup, it actually pried apart above the black plastic bezel which removed the touch screen from the display panel. With this being the first newer iPhone I'd opened since the 3GS, I didn't realize that I was opening the wrong opening as the directions only mentioned one opening and did not warn of this. I was pretty disappointed in the lack of mentioning this, as I was taking my time and following it to the tee. As a result, it destroyed my original iPhone screen.
DO NOT separate the glass from the plastic bumper or rim around it. As someone else noted, these instructions don't clarify that the pick has to be inserted between the plastic rim and the metal body of the phone. When pulling upwards with the suction cup, it is likely that the glass will lift slightly off the plastic surround before the plastic will lift out of the metal body. I had success sliding a card or pick back and forth along the bottom edge of the plastic rim while pulling on the suction cup. Eventually there was a space large enough for the pick to go under the plastic rim.
Thank you for pointing this out! I've updated the step to reflect this.
The suction cup doesn't work at all... The minimum force I apply to lift it up, it comes off completely. This is very frustrating!!!
-
-
-
Schiebe das Plektrum um die linke untere Ecke und am linken Rand des iPhone hoch, zerschneide damit den Kleber, der das Display festhält.
-
-
Wouldn’t it be better to put this part BEFORE the step where you have to pry open the phone?
-
-
Setze da Plektrum wieder an der Unterkante des iPhone ein und schiebe es die rechte Seite hoch, um den Kleber darunter aufzutrennen.
If you have flat feeler gauges (for adjusting engine valve tappet clearance, ignition points … old school) the .003” thick gauge goes right in. Work your way up in thickness until you can get the pic or supplied pry tool in. Don’t insert metal feeler gauge in too far, just enough to hold crack open. I didn’t need to use the suction cup. I used a hot/cold gel pack heated in microwave to heat edges to soften glue a bit. Made sure it wasn’t so hot I couldn’t stand it on my skin.
-
-
-
Schiebe das Plektrum um die obere Ecke des Displays herum und ziehe gleichzeitig vorsichtig das Display mit wackelnden Bewegungen herunter in Richtung des Lightninganschlusses.
-
-
-
Öffne das iPhone, indem du das Display von der linken Seite her hochklappst, wie die Seite eines Buches.
-
Lehne das Display gegen einen Gegenstand, damit es abgestützt ist, wenn du daran arbeitest.
My phone came apart in a different way and looks not right the little box at the top of the display as actually bolted to the top of the frame body I think something went really wrong when I opened it.
It opens like a book but be careful not to open it all the way — only as far as shown in the photo. Otherwise it will strain the thin cable that connects the sensor module and then no more FaceID for you (or, as it turns out me). This could have been made more explicit in the instructions.
It opens like a book but be careful not to open it all the way … the small stainless steel tabs that hold the screen around the metal frame, that are on the bend place (right side of the phone)… are tend to bend, you can straighten them back to 90 deg. but the plastic base that they are on? very fragile- watch out not to break the plastic bezel … it may come apart of the glass.
Advice for re-assembly: Before closing up the phone with the seal, check if phone is powering up again and speaker, mic and sensors are still working. If done this check even before installing the board connector bracket in Step 13.
-
-
In diesem Schritt verwendetes Werkzeug:Magnetic Project Mat$19.95
-
Entferne fünf Y000 Schrauben, welche die Halterung des Verbinders des Logic Board befestigen:
-
Drei 1,1 mm Schrauben
-
Eine 3,1 mm Schraube
-
Eine 3,7 mm Schraube
One thing I found helpful for replacing the screws was to use only the 000screwdriver tip, without the handle. This way, the tip isn’t magnetized and the screw doesn’t tend to ‘roll’ off the screwdriver tip (the screw has almost no mass, so the head (largest surface) is pulled around to the side of the screwdriver tip when magnetized).
Rich May 23, 2020
My 3.1mm screw had a stripped head, could not remove it. (Factory defect, this iPhone was never opened)
So I had to give up removing the display assembly, and jumped directly to battery replacement, Step 20.
That was tricky as I had to keep the display at 90º with a risk of breaking display connectors, but hopefully the replacement went well.
I would not recommend to do this but to follow the guide, but, in case someone encounters a similar issue, that could help!
Be careful on reassembly. Keep the screen supported and not moving. I had difficulty getting the screws in and ended up ruining the screen connectivity at the back of the screen where the ribbon cables go in near the center. I was trying to hand hold the screen and it ended up moving around too much.
To keep track of the screws, I copy the photos showing their places, then arrange these photos on document in Pages, print it. Next I apply two sided sticky tape (the roll-on type). So all screws have their corresponding places …
-
-
-
Entferne die Halterung.
I tested it, then proceeded to close up the device without the bracket. Do I need to reopen and install? All connections are good?
The bracket helps those many connectors underneath maintain good contact. Probably in the short term nothing bad will happen, but I’d hang onto the bracket and reinstall it when convenient.
Agree with Jeff
cgtyoder -
for me, the replacement battery was completely dead, small panic when the power-on button was pressed, but quickly realised that this was the situation, and now watching the phone take a power cycle.
Before clicking the screen assembly back, I tried to test the iPhone by pushing the start button, but nothing happened. After taking off the bracket, reseating the plugs I tried again - nothing happened! Then I plugged in the charging cable connected with the iMac, and it started immediately. So if the phone does not start using the startup button, it might just be a glitch when reconnecting the battery.
-
-
-
Hebele den Akkustecker mit einem sauberen Fingernagel oder einem Spudger aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.
-
Biege den Stecker etwas weg vom Logic Board, damit er nicht versehentlich einen Kontakt zum Sockel herstellen kann. Dadurch würde das iPhone während der Reparatur mit Strom versorgt werden.
cosa può succedere se non si disconnette la scheda logica'?
note: be careful not to crush or puncture your battery at this step!! I gave mine a minor dent, which I hope wont be a problem.. but something to keep in mind for fxlks in the future!
Thanks, already did it)
-
-
-
Löse den Verbinder der Sensoreinheit des Frontpanels mit der Spudgerspitze oder dem Fingernagel.
-
-
-
Löse den Verbinder des Kabels zum OLED Panel mit der Spudgerspitze oder dem Fingernagel.
Snap ‘em in like little Legos.
-
-
-
Hebele den Verbinder des Touchscreen Kabels mit der Spudgerspitze aus seinem Sockel.
This was probably the hardest part other than trying to get the screen off with the crappy suction cups. I re-installed the bracket only the find out that the touch screen would not respond to touch. Had to remove the five screws, remove the bracket and reseat the recessed screen connector. Reseating the bracket took another 10+ minutes. I carefully used the angled forceps to grab the cable and align the connector being careful not to damage the cable.
Once you have the connector seated, I would reconnect the battery, power on the phone, and check the touch screen response before re-installing the bracket (step 13).
Yeah, this was probably the trickiest part of the reassembly. The power connector cable kept getting in the way so I moved it carefully but fully out of the way. Then it was a matter of fiddling around with it a bit and being careful not to force it on.
I was positive that I had messed something up, I had powered up the phone to test three different times and everything seemed find except there was no touch at all. On my fourth attempt, I carefully examined everything for dust and debris (blowing gently), and I did notice that a corner of the connector (more like part of the ribbon) was bent slightly, and I straightened it. I don't know if it was the ribbon or some tiny debris, but after reseating a fourth time, it worked.
Very important part of the tutorial. Be careful and patience! In my case the screen and camera didn't respond after assemble, so I tried again to reconnect the connector like tutorial said and it worked well. Now my iPhone feel like a new one 💪🏼
-
-
-
Hebe das Kabel vorsichtig an, bis es sich ablöst.
It is part of the face id part so yes. This is the ear piece too so if the ribbon tears there is a chance the ear piece will stop working as well.
Be super careful handling this ribbon particularly. I did a battery install and, when I was done, I had a phone with a new battery and no Face ID. That’s a $300 Apple repair, and no 3rd party shop will touch it. I believe the ribbon lays vertically (i.e., perpendicular to the “floor” of the phone, against the side edge of the battery. During the re-install, I must have forced the ribbon into position after seating the connector, causing fatal flexing of the ribbon. (Don’t know this for sure, but I see another comment saying that this cable is part of Face ID.) Anyway, bottom line: BE CAREFUL REMOVING AND REINSTALLING THIS RIBBON!
My flex cable was more than lightly adhered in place. I needed to use a guitar pic or similar to help encourage adhesive to separate. I wouldn’t pull too hard like shown in pictures unless you had just the right grip on the ribbon cable so as to avoid damaging flex cable. See note above (5/31/20)
Bizarre — it turns out my whole front panel sensor assembly came entire off of the front screen and is stuck to the logic board.
I also found the glue quite recluctant to release so I applied a second or two of heat using the wife's hair dryer which softened it and the cable lifted much easier then. Be careful not to apply too much heat though which could then impact other internal components.
Cho ít cồn 90° vào để mềm keo dễ tháo
my iphone x doesn't have a front panel sensor? in fact, it looks completely different than the picture???
@kennethmcleod, most likely you've separated the screen frame from the screen itself. We see this most commonly when people neglect to remove the pentalobe screws next to the charging port. Usually the cure is to take out those screws, then repeat the screen removal process on the frame that's still attached to the phone.
You don't need to disconnect the front sensor to change the screen. Just leave it connected and remove from the screen side.
I have damaged the front panel sensor assembly flex cable. Does it carry multiple channels of info or is it just one solid piece that can be soldered back together? If not, will the phone still work except Face ID?
-
-
-
-
Entferne die Displayeinheit.
I tried this and broke the cable can it still repair
CAUTION:
Removing the Taptic Engine or Speaker in next step is optional and the guide continues as this was per se needed.
Unnecessary work and also If you remove the speaker you lose the adhesive gasket and this is not included in the scope of delivery of the "Battery replacement" offering.
So do not remove and avoid losing waterproofing.
Just to confirm the face id is not affected when replacing the earpiece assembly? Am I correct
Sorry for the late response, but you are NOT correct. Replacing the earpiece speaker assembly will result in the loss of Face ID functionality. That's the whole assembly, including the speaker, dot projector and flood illuminator. If you unsolder the speaker from the assembly, that can be replaced by itself without losing Face ID, but any other part will cause it to quit working.
-
-
-
Entferne die sieben Schrauben, die die Halterung unterhalb der Taptic Engine und dem Lautsprecher befestigen:
-
Zwei 1,9 mm Y000 Schrauben
-
Eine 1,2 mm Y000 Schraube
-
Eine 1,6 mm Y000 Schraube
-
Eine 2,4 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube
-
Eine 1,7 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube
-
Eine 1,5 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube
For battery replacement:
It is not necessary to remove Taptic Engine and speaker to replace a battery. Go straight to the step #33
Additional video: https://youtu.be/2GfBOlJEW10
I wish I seen this before I did all that! Thank you for that information. Next time I do something like this. I'm gonna pay more attention to the comments.
Removing the Taptic Engine and speaker greatly improves your chances of getting the battery adhesive strips out intact. If those break, you’ll have a much tougher time.
Boy, I tried to skip removing these items but was unable to get the glue strips out with them in place, not much to grab and tabs were kind of stuck to a seam in the battery, and hard to tell the difference between the seam and the strip tabs. For me I had to remove these items to get this done.
I stopped removing things after getting the display side off. There were 3 screws stripped on the speaker cover which wouldn't come out so I punted. Just pried the battery out with a smudger tool and some patience, starting at the top and working towards the bottom. New battery is in and working fine.
Thanks for not removing the following steps. this made me break the connector for the bottom speakers >:(
The screws color and quantities in list don’t match the schematic ! I wish i had a magnetic screw mat before starting, because not only i removed the Taptic Engine and speaker unnecessarily, but i also lost a screw ?
Does anyone know the purpose of this bracket "with grounding pads"? What would be the possible side effects if it was damaged or not connected properly during reassembly?
Hello, in my case the grounding pads are damaged. I've had problems since EMC. When I try to charge wirelessly, the iphone starts wild button presses (Gosting).
Does anyone know, where I can get new grounding pads (with or without bracket)?Sure would like to know WHY the warning "Be careful not to touch the three rows of grounding pads..." What would or could happen if I did touch them??
Removing the battery strips is a major PITA, just skip this step and everything onwards, remove the one strip on the top part of the battery (according to step 33) and for the bottom part of the battery, pry it off with a plastic spudger.
Yes, this is not the elegant solution, but the quickest and easiest one. This method is better, as you don't want to keep the old battery anyway, so why bother. (You must not puncture the battery though! But as long as you're only working with a plastic tool and are careful, nothing can happen from my experience.)
Remove the adhesive from the top part of the battery, squirt some ipa into the bottom part and it will come off easily, then skip to 38.
-
-
-
Hebe nun die Halterung von der Ecke, welche der Batterie am nächsten ist an. Versuche nicht, sie vollständig zu entfernen, da sie weiterhin mit einem kleinen Flex-Kabel verbunden ist.
Does anyone know, where I can get new grounding pads (with or without bracket)?
-
-
-
Halte die Halterung so, dass sie dich nicht stört, und benutze die Spudgerspitze, um das darunterliegende Flex-Kabel mit einer Hebelbewegung zu lösen.
-
-
-
Entferne die 2,1 mm Y000-Schraube, welche die Abdeckung des Lautsprecherverbinders befestigt.
L'unique vis non?
Effectivement ;-) Merci pour les bons yeux et la remarque !
-
-
-
Benutze die Spudgerspitze, um den Lautsprecherverbinder hochzuheben und zu trennen.
As mentioned in a comment by timblake2112 (see step 29), this step is not necessary and can be skipped skipped. I would advise you to do so, as removing your speaker is guaranteed to ruin your gasket and rubber seal. This will result in loss of water resistancy of your iPhone and could potentially harm the sound quality of your speaker.
Try removing the Taptic Engine without removing the speaker. It might still be possible removing the battery adhesive strips and your speaker will stay in its original condition.
-
-
-
Setze einen Spudger unter die Oberkante des Lautsprechers in der Nähe vom Rand des iPhone Gehäuses.
-
Hebele vorsichtig nach oben und hebe die Oberkante des Lautsprechers an.
-
-
-
Greife den Lautsprecher an den Seitenkanten an und rücke ihn etwas hin und her. Dadurch löst sich die Klebeverbindung zur Unterkante des iPhones.
-
Ziehe den Lautsprecher von der Unterkante des iPhones weg, bis sich die Klebedichtung löst.
As mentioned in a comment by timblake2112 (see step 29), this step is not necessary and can be skipped skipped. I would advise you to do so, as removing your speaker is guaranteed to ruin your gasket and rubber seal. This will result in loss of water resistancy of your iPhone and could potentially harm the sound quality of your speaker.
Try removing the Taptic Engine without removing the speaker. It might still be possible removing the battery adhesive strips and your speaker will stay in its original condition.
-
-
-
Entferne den Lautsprecher.
You don’t need to remove the speaker and ruin its gasket. You can wiggle and slide the taptic engine out without removing the speaker. I’ve done this twice on rear shell replacement jobs.
Maybe I'm a bit daft, but where's the instruction just how to line up the speaker gasket when replacing? I only have one so I'd like to avoid wrecking it. And I completely cleaned off the old one in order to do a good job of things. Why no simple instruction from part supply link?
-
-
-
Ziehe alle Reste der Klebedichtung des Lautsprechers mit einer Pinzette ab.
-
Nimm ein Mikrofasertuch und Isopropylalkohol und beseitige alle Kleberreste vom Rahmen und vom Lautsprecher.
-
Bevor du die neue Dichtung festklebst, mache dir die genaue Lage der Dichtung auf der Rückseite des Lautsprechers klar. Der große Ausschnitt in der Dichtung muss um das Gewebe an der Öffnung des Lautsprechers herum verlaufen.
-
Entferne die größere durchsichtige Schutzfolie von der Dichtung. Klebe die Dichtung sorgfältig mit einer Pinzette an der Unterseite des Lautsprechers an.
-
Drücke die Dichtung mit dem Finger oder einem Spudger gut fest.
-
Entferne die restliche Schutzfolie und lege den Lautsprecher an seinem Platz ab. Achte darauf, dass der Lautsprecherstecker nicht darunter eingeklemmt wird.
-
-
-
Entferne die 2,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube, welche die Taptic Engine festhält.
-
-
-
Löse das Flexkabel der Taptic Engine, indem du es mit dem Spudger gerade aus seinem Sockel hochhebelst.
-
-
-
Jedes Stück Klebeband hat eine schwarze Zuglasche am Ende, die an der Seitenkante des Akkus leicht angeklebt ist.
-
-
-
Löse die erste Klebezuglasche von der Unterkante des Akkus ab.
hole breaks instantly on pulling. adhesive tab does not release from side of battery
just pry it off, why bother
-
-
-
Wiederhole den vorigen Schritt, um auch die beiden restlichen beiden Klebezuglaschen von der Unterkante des Akkus zu lösen.
-
-
-
Um deine Chancen zu verbessern:
-
Drücke den Akku nicht nach unten. Halte das iPhone an den Seiten fest.
-
Halte die Klebestreifen flach und faltenfrei während du ziehst.
-
Ziehe sehr langsam und lasse dem Klebestreifen Zeit, sich zu lösen. Der Streifen braucht 15 bis 30 Sekunden bis er sich löst.
-
Ziehe in einem flachen Winkel, so dass der Streifen sich nicht an der Unterkante des Akkus verhakt.
-
Wenn ein Streifen unter dem Akku reißt und nicht hervor geholt werden kann, dann fahre mit den anderen Streifen fort und folge dann den zusätzlichen nachfolgenden Schritten.
-
-
In diesem Schritt verwendetes Werkzeug:Tweezers$4.99
-
Fasse eine der äußeren Zuglaschen des Akkus an und ziehe sie langsam vom Akku weg in Richtung Unterkante des iPhones.
-
Ziehe gleichmäßig und halte die Spannung auf dem Streifen konstant, bis er zwischen Akku und Rückgehäuse hervorrutscht.
-
-
-
Wiederhole den vorherigen Schritt und entferne den Klebestreifen auf der gegenüberliegenden Seite. Der mittlere Streifen kommt als letztes dran.
-
-
-
Entferne den mittleren Streifen, achte dabei darauf, dass er nicht am Flexkabel des Lautsprechers hängen bleibt.
-
-
-
Löse die Zuglasche am letzten Klebestreifen an der Oberkante der oberen Akkuzelle ab.
surtout ne pas passer avec la spatule par le bas, vous risqueriez d arracher la nappe du volume et du nfc,
-
-
-
Ziehe den letzten Klebestreifen heraus und entferne ihn.
-
Wenn alle vier Klebestreifen erfolgreich und vollständig entfernt worden sind, kannst du den nächsten Schritt überspringen.
-
Lasse den Alkohol etwa eine Minute lang wirken, damit der Klebestreifen geschwächt wird. Hebe dann den Akku mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers vorsichtig hoch.
-
-
-
Wenn einer der Streifen gerissen ist und der Akku noch im Rückgehäuse festklebt, dann bereite einen iOpener vor oder benutze einen Haartrockner, um das Gehäuse direkt hinter dem Akku zu erwärmen.
-
Drehe das iPhone herum und ziehe einen starken Faden (etwa Zahnseide oder eine dünne Gitarrensaite) unter dem Akku ein.
-
Schlinge die Enden des Fadens um ein Tuch (oder ziehe Handschuhe an), um deine Finger zu schützen.
-
Ziehe den Faden in einer sägenden Bewegung unter dem Akku hin und her, um die Klebeverbindung aufzuschneiden. Das kann etwas dauern, da sich der Kleber nur langsam verformen lässt, aber mit etwas Geduld wird er frei kommen. Verforme oder beschädige nicht den Akku!
-
-
-
Fasse den Akku an der Unterkante an und entferne den Akku vom iPhone.
-
Klebe den Akku fest, löse den Stecker wieder ab und fahre mit dem Zusammenbau fort.
When reinstalling the battery, the Taptic Engine does serve as a useful way to orient the battery, but it should also be noted that if you push right up against that as you install the battery (as I did) and don’t pay any attention to power connector (shown in step 14), there is a risk that the connector from the battery will not line exactly with the connector port on the board. Mine was only off a mm so I had to get a little creative to try to get it to stretch to reach and connect to the port on the board. Just keep that in mind as you place the battery (with adhesive) down.
-
-
-
Benutze das flache Ende des Spudgers, um die drei Kabel der Frontkameraeinheit zu trennen:
-
Der Punktprojektor.
-
Die Frontkamera.
-
Der Infrarot- Sensor.
This thing is highly prone to damage. Treat it with baby hands! Mine stopped working after changing my buttons and I was super careful
-
-
-
Benutze die Spitze eines Spudgers, starte bei dem Stecker und schiebe den Spudger zwischen dem Kabel des Infrarot- Sensors und dem Gehäuse durch, um das Kabel vom Gehäuse zu trennen.
-
Wiederhole dies beim Frontkamerakabel.
-
-
-
Trenne folgende Stecker ab:
-
WiFi Antenne
-
Weitwinkelkamera
-
Einschalttaste/Blitz/Mikrofon
-
Telekamera
-
Dickanschluss
-
Tasten/Drahtloses Laden
-
Mobilantenne
-
-
-
Trenne den Stecker am Kabel zur Weitwinkelkamera ab.
-
-
-
Trenne den Stecker am Kabel zur Einschalttaste/Blitz/Mikrofon ab.
-
-
-
Trenne den Stecker am Flachbandkabel zum Dock ab.
-
Biege das Kabel rechtwinklig nach oben, damit der Weg für das Logic Board frei wird.
-
-
-
Trenne den Stecker am Kabel zu den Tasten/drahtlosen Laden ab.
-
-
-
Trenne den Stecker am Kabel zur Mobilantenne ab.
-
Biege das Kabel aus dem Weg.
-
-
-
Entferne die beiden Kreuzschlitzschrauben, mit denen er befestigt ist:
-
Eine 2,7 mm Schraube
-
Eine 2,1 mm Schraube
-
Entferne die 2,0 mm Erdungsschraube
-
Entferne den Erdungsöse
-
-
-
Beim Auswerfen der SIM-Karte kommt ein Stift aus dem Rahmen heraus, der den Auswurfhebel für den Schlitten der SIM-Karte betätigt. Dieser Stift muss erst wieder eingedrückt werden, damit er nicht den Ausbau des Logic Boards behindert.
-
-
In diesem Schritt verwendetes Werkzeug:Tweezers$4.99
-
Schiebe den Auswurfhebel für die SIM-Karte mit einer spitzen Pinzette zur Seite des Gehäuses hin.
-
Wenn du fertig bist, sollte der Hebel wie im Bild gezeigt aussehen. Der Stift kann den Ausbau des Logic Boards nicht mehr behindern.
-
-
-
Die Baugruppe des Logic Boards ist mit zwei Pfosten befestigt, die durch das untere Board führen und am oberen Board befestigt sind. Um alles zu entfernen, musst du es gleichmäßig nach oben heben und aus den Abstandshaltern lösen.
-
-
-
Entferne die 1,4 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube, mit der die erste Erdungsöse befestigt ist.
-
Entferne die Erdungsöse.
This is already step 87. It has to come out before the 1.7mm Phillips on the right side of the silent button.
Hi Sandy (@sandlow).
Yes, you are correct that this step is repeated for the rear case replacement guide. This is an artifact of the way guides are put together using existing guides. There are ways around steps being duplicated, but they either involve editing someone else's guide (which I tried to do but my changes were rejected), or duplicating their entire guide just to edit one step out thus losing out if any changes are made to the original.
Ultimately I chose to leave the duplicated step in. I will see about adding a caution at the beginning that some duplicated steps may be encountered.
But thank you for your input; iFixit is ultimately a community effort and yours is appreciated!
Regards,
Jerry -
-
-
Entferne vier 1,5 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben.
The standoff screw is a smaller screw so three are the same size and there's one smaller one that goes in the standoff
I have a problem with the NFC feature. Does changing the Wi-Fi antenna lead to the NFC feature working again?? Please reply... Thank you for your efforts..
-
-
-
Erwärme die Gehäuserückseite mit einem iOpener oder erwärme die WiFi-Antenne mit einem Haartrockner oder einem Heißluftgebläse.
-
Löse die WiFi-Antenne mit einem Spudger vom Gehäuse ab.
-
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Rückgängig: Ich habe diese Anleitung nicht absolviert.
11 weitere Personen haben diese Anleitung absolviert.
Besonderer Dank geht an diese Übersetzer:innen:
100%
VauWeh hilft uns, die Welt in Ordnung zu bringen! Wie kann ich mithelfen?
Hier starten ›
Team
2 Kommentare
The connector is shown plugging into the motherboard on step 55.
