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Einleitung

In dieser Anleitung wird gezeigt, wie du den eingeklebten Akku deines MacBook Pro entfernen kannst. Das klappt am besten mit einem iFixit Akku Kit. Der flüssige Klebstoffentferner in deinem Kit wird den Kleber, mit dem der Akku befestigt ist, auflösen, so dass du ihn ganz leicht herausnehmen kannst. Alternativ kannst du auch einen iOpener nutzen, um den Kleber etwas zu erwärmen und dadurch weicher zu machen, bevor du den Akku heraushebelst.

Der iFixit Klebstoffentferner ist leicht entzündlich. Du solltest diese Reparatur in einem gut belüfteten Bereich durchführen und währenddessen nicht rauchen oder in die Nähe einer offenen Flamme kommen.

Um das Sicherheitsrisiko zu verkleinern, solltest du den Akku deines MacBook Pro vollständig entladen bevor du mit der Reparatur beginnst. Eine geladener Lithium-Ionen-Akku kann sich entzünden, wenn er versehentlich beschädigt wird. Wenn dein Akku aufgebläht ist, dann musst du geeignete Vorsichtsmaßnahmen treffen.

Hinweis: Das Lösungsmittel, das zum Auflösen des Klebstoffs verwendet wird, kann bestimmte Kunststoffe beschädigen, wie zum Beispiel die Lautsprechergehäuse aus Plastik des MacBook Pro. Sei deshalb besonders vorsichtig beim Auftragen des Lösungsmittels.

    • Entferne die folgenden zehn Schrauben, die den Boden des Gehäuses befestigen:

    • Zwei 2,3 mm Pentalobe P5 Schrauben

    • Acht 3 mm Pentalobe P5 Schrauben

    • Denke während dieser Reparatur daran, sich die Positionen der Schrauben zu merken und gehe sicher, dass jede Schraube später wieder an der richtigen Stelle ist, damit dein Gerät nicht kaputt geht.

    For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

    Carlos - Antwort

    Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

    Fredrik -

    Is the Pentalobe screwdriver mentioned in the tools list? I did not have one so I used a filed down flat blade screwdriver. Not a fantastic idea, but it works.

    Alex Birkett - Antwort

    Yes, it's mentioned on the top of this page. P5 Pentalobe to be precise. I didn't have one either, so I bought one from iFixit and that works fantastic. An absolutely precise fit, which is important especially when you might open your MacBook a couple of times during the years you own it. Not using the correct tool might do more harm to the screws than you want! I once had this with a Lenovo Yoga 3 Pro, which has Torx screws (T4 I think) and I used cheap Chinese quality tools, with the result that both the tool and one of the screws are damaged.

    addvariety -

    I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

    marketing - Antwort

    is P5 supposed to be for all 10 screws? it works on the 2x 2.3mm at the top, but not for the 8x others for me. what size screwdriver for the 3mm? thanks

    monsieurescargot - Antwort

    Yes, the p5 works for all 10 pentalobe screw heads for bottom cover. The the different size mm reference only refers to the difference in length of the screws, but again both heads are p5.

    Antoine Thornton - Antwort

    I followed this exactly and was able to replace my broken trackpad. I did not have to replace the ribbon OR the battery. However I would suggest getting the ribbon since it’s fairly cheap, as for the batteries I was able to do it with a card only. I didn’t use any heat or the liquid but it takes some time. You really have to work the card in there to release the glue. Also you must be very careful not to bend the batteries or damage them, if you do you must replace with new. This took me about 1.5hrs and my computer works like new. Apple cost for this job was around $450, I did it for $120. Big ups to ifixit for this awesome tutorial, tool set and parts!

    On a side note, only use quality tools, the cheap ones will break or strip the screws.

    Dustin Steward - Antwort

    Note that the eight 3mm screws have a shoulder under the head, while the two 2.3mm screws are “full thread”, i.e., there is no shoulder under their heads. It’s important to put the two screws with no shoulder at the hinge of the cover.

    All ten screws require a P5 Pentalobe screwdriver, preferably with a magnetized tip to help hold and position the screw.

    All of the screws have blue “Loctite” thread locker compound on their threads. This is to help prevent the screws from working loose and falling out. Don’t attempt to clean the Loctite from the screws — leave it in place, and it will continue to help prevent the re-inserted screws from working loose.

    When replacing the bottom cover, it is a good technique to insert and BEGIN tightening all ten screws BEFORE fully tightening any one screw. After all the screws have been started, then go around and finish tightening all of them. By doing this, you make it easier to feel that each screw has been started properly, and is not “cross-threaded”.

    doubleclutch - Antwort

    This is what I found on my MBP mid-2014 13” Retina. All 10 used the same screwdriver. I didn’t see the blue “loctite” but I also got my computer refurbished.

    Evan Shulman -

    A good technique for starting to thread the screws when replacing them is to position and align the screw, and with the driver, gently turn the screw in the REMOVAL direction until you feel and hear a slight click. This click happens when the leading thread of the screw drops off of the leading edge of the thread in the hole — this is the point at which the threads are properly positioned for engagement. You can now turn the driver and screw in the TIGHTENING direction. This technique will help prevent accidental “cross-threading” of the screw, which will damage the threads permanently.

    Note that this is a useful technique when installing ANY threaded fastener.

    doubleclutch - Antwort

    Just finished replacing my battery (MacBook Pro 13” early 2015), glad I did, the old ones were noticeably swollen. I was surprised to find the battery at 57% upon completion and charging the new battery. No problems with replacement however, kit arrived without the Pentalobe driver. I got a nice complete kit from Amazon for 20 euro in 2 days. iFixit offered a coupon on any future purchase but right now, I have no plans on needing anything. Nice gesture but would have preferred the driver in the kit in the first place.

    Suggest having a small can of compressed air on hand to clean out the interior, after 4 years, mine was quite dirty. Ear buds and alcohol were the best I could do. And a magnetized driver is mandatory I think.

    D M - Antwort

    REQUIRED PARTS (SCREWS) TO DO THIS JOB UNAVAILABLE HERE:

    If your keyboard is riveted to the chassis as mine is, Late 2013 MBP 13” retina, you need about 100 screws to reattach the new keyboard.

    ifixit does not have them. I did just now find them at Beetstech for $4.50 along with a back light $13 for the keyboard in case you want one. It looks like Beetstech is a big competitor of ifixit with an excellent reputation (like ifixit has) too. I just ordered these parts and will not happily be moving forward with my keyboard replacement.

    Timothy Hardman - Antwort

    Fun Fact: I got three of the 2,3 mm Pentalopes … ;-)

    Paco Demant - Antwort

    My PB had eight (8), 2.3 mm screws and two (2), 3.0 mm screws.

    ellamama - Antwort

    Hi peeps,

    I have a wifi problem on this MBP 13” early 2015 and was pleasently surprised to find your guide to changing the airport card.

    However upon closer inspection it seems that on my MBP (purchased new or so I thought) the 3 antennae seem so have been soldered together at the point where they are clamped to the chassis. I have photos but cannot post here. Can anyone conform that where the 3 antennae wires are held to the chssis by the 2 scew metal support (just before disappearing into the screen hinge), the support is not meant to short the 3 wires together. This makes no sense for 3 seperate antennae wires.

    Any advice /close up photos is welcome here.

    dom

    colonel mustard - Antwort

    Tip: Use post-it notes to keep track of screws

    1. Pack of post it notes

    2. Stick screws to the sticky part of the post it note

    3. Write on the post it note which step and what kind of screw it is

    ibash - Antwort

    Hi, in order to drain the battery I am running:

    yes > /dev/null

    in 4 terminals, so the CPU maxes out at almost 99%.

    I hope this speeds up the battery draining process.

    And the backlight is at maximum brightness :-)

    You can see the cpu load in Activity Monitor.

    Its draining at 20% per 15 minutes.

    Any concerns about draining the battery in this way?

    Andre van der Ham - Antwort

    Something I’ve been curious about, is it possible to upgrade a late 2013 Retina model MacBook Pro, with the improved 16gb ram and i7 processor logic board from the 2015 retina model? I’d be interested to try but not ready to shell out the $500+ to be the first lol

    Chat Dawgie - Antwort

  1. Gehe mit deinen Fingern zwischen das obere und das untere Gehäuse.
    • Gehe mit deinen Fingern zwischen das obere und das untere Gehäuse.

    • Hebe die untere Gehäuseabdeckung vorsichtig vom Gerät ab.

    This takes a bit more effort than you might expect. Put your fingers where shown and lift about 3inches. With enough upwards pressure the plastic holders will “pop free” and the bottom will come off easily.

    hamiltont - Antwort

    Agreed. A decent amount of force is required here.

    Evan Shulman - Antwort

    To reattach bottom case I found it helpful to line fingers up with clips under case should snap easily

    Peter Stoll - Antwort

    Easy snapped off for me

    Jackie Malling - Antwort

  2. Der Gehäuseboden ist durch zwei Steckverbindungen in dessen Mitte mit dem Gerät verbunden. Drücke während des Zusammenbauens vorsichtig auf die Mitte des Gehäusebodens, um die Steckverbindungen wiederherzustellen.
    • Der Gehäuseboden ist durch zwei Steckverbindungen in dessen Mitte mit dem Gerät verbunden.

    • Drücke während des Zusammenbauens vorsichtig auf die Mitte des Gehäusebodens, um die Steckverbindungen wiederherzustellen.

    What is the black vinyl-y sticker on the inside of the case (some sort of shield?). I was forced to slightly puncture it in order to replace the feet on my laptop. Thanks in advance.

    Tommy Huang - Antwort

    When I got the back off, I found this piece loose, any idea what it is? about 9mm long frosted plastic

    https://imgur.com/a/tYaxGdG

    Fred Anderson - Antwort

    This wording I found quite confusing. They just mean when putting the lid back on that you just removed in the previous step, push here.

    Mmm ttt - Antwort

    I took my pointer and thumb (which are luckily long enough) to feel where the studs are on the back panel, and then as I put the back panel back on, I pushed in the spot I had marked with my fingers to ensure I was applying pressure only on this part.

    Evan Shulman - Antwort

    Can you make a youtube video showing the steps? I am not sure how to proceed with this step. I want to see it done.

    Thanks.

    Carol Garrett - Antwort

  3. Falls nötig, entferne die Plastikabdeckung vom Akkuanschluss.
    • Falls nötig, entferne die Plastikabdeckung vom Akkuanschluss.

    Do you know where I can purchase this plastic cover? Mine is missing and no one will work on my computer without it.

    jodieabc - Antwort

    My new battery kit included a replacement for this part, so, no need to save the old one.

    Ralph Begleiter - Antwort

    The aux in my mac works 1 out of 10 times , Is this relevant to me in order to solve the proplem ? I cant see aux input on the io board ?

    Wajde Fadool - Antwort

  4. Trenne den Akkustecker mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers von seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board. Achte darauf, nur den Stecker und nicht den Sockel anzuheben. Ansonsten besteht die Gefahr das Logic Board irreparabel zu beschädigen.
    • Trenne den Akkustecker mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers von seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board.

    • Achte darauf, nur den Stecker und nicht den Sockel anzuheben. Ansonsten besteht die Gefahr das Logic Board irreparabel zu beschädigen.

    I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

    jramsey21 - Antwort

    I have the some problem. I was thinking to replace the whole battery but I am not it will solve the problem. Any suggestions?

    salvatorebarbera -

    Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

    andrehedegaard -

    Hi,have you find the solution for your battery? I also have same problem, run with plugs but it battery not supporting… as soon the plug of it goes off

    Jewel Rahman -

    Have either of you replaced the battery and/or circuit board to fix the MacBooks with the water damage ? I have the same problem with the MacBook working fine when connected to power but dying immediately when the power cord is removed.

    Steve - Antwort

    Hi, Steve. I had the same problem: Macbook Pro 15 retina with coffee damage. And it worked fine when connected to power. I made it working after replacing the whole battery. It seems that circuit connected to the battery becomes disabled to prevent short circuit.

    Vadim Gribanov -

    When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

    Ethan Tarquin - Antwort

    Thanks for the comment. My MBP isn’t powering on after I walked through these steps, and I assume it is because the battery connector isn’t fully connected. (I can’t check yet since I borrowed the pentalobe screwdriver)

    Caleb Steinborn -

    +1

    I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!

    Jonas Ehrs -

    If I only want to replace the trackpad cable, then which steps should I skip? This step seems unnecessary

    Parth Gudhka - Antwort

    This step is not unnecessary because you need to remove the battery before you can replace the trackpad

    Jeffrey Liu -

    Removing the battery connector took a bit of finagling. It wasn’t as easy as one would think. Be very careful when doing this as they warn to not damage it. Otherwise great instructions!!!!

    Peppon - Antwort

    I replaced both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13” withOUT doing this step.

    Evan Shulman - Antwort

    I did the same thing, probably unnecessary to disconnect the battery. I’m not a technician however.

    Leo Toupin -

    I have verified I have this battery, and I have a mid-2014 macbook retina. And I swear i do not see this battery connector. I didn’t take the cover off, per other comments that said it was an unnecessary risk. What the heck? will I not see the battery cable without taking of that cover?

    martha - Antwort

    How can i post a photo of what I am seeing …I don’t see the battery connector! not like in photo above. maybe I have to remove that plastic cover although others recommended not doing that (see above).

    martha - Antwort

    ooops nevermind..I see it now! tks . But..there is SO much gunk/dust under there (old, hand me down, used by my teen daughter while eating in bed no doubt!) . Should I attempt to clean? Beyond just blowing on it? Is compressed air safe? Or should I just leave it be? Assuming I don’t break it while replacing this battery I’d like not to break it otherwise! tks

    martha - Antwort

    Lift from the long, flat side, not the shorter side. In this picture, you should lift from the NORTH part of the connector, not the WEST side like they are doing. This is because you can spread the pressure from lifting the connector across more area, as compared to the side. I accidentally broke off part of my battery connector lifting it up the way shown, but was able to do it the way I described without problem. Make sure to lift from the wide part so you don’t have my same trouble!

    Jaden Salama - Antwort

  5. Biege den Akkustecker etwas zur Seite, um während der Reparatur einen versehentlichen Kontakt mit dem Anschluss zu verhindern.
    • Biege den Akkustecker etwas zur Seite, um während der Reparatur einen versehentlichen Kontakt mit dem Anschluss zu verhindern.

    If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

    sebasgaes - Antwort

    Not sure I understand: did leaving the battery plugged in permanently broke the I/O board (or anything else)?

    Adrien -

    I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

    LaymanLab - Antwort

    That’s a great idea!

    David Lilliebridge - Antwort

    I used a small piece of paper to prevent the connector from connecting, no need to wrestle with even low-stick adhesive.

    dbrick - Antwort

    I replaced both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13” withOUT doing this step.

    Evan Shulman - Antwort

    I agree that inserting a small paper above between the socket and the connector was useful. I used post-it-note, but kept the adhesive away from the socket.

    Ralph Begleiter - Antwort

  6. Entferne die beiden 2,1 mm T5 Torx Schrauben, mit denen die Abdeckung des E/O Board Kabels am Logic Board befestigt ist. Entferne die Abdeckung des E/A Board Kabels.
    • Entferne die beiden 2,1 mm T5 Torx Schrauben, mit denen die Abdeckung des E/O Board Kabels am Logic Board befestigt ist.

    • Entferne die Abdeckung des E/A Board Kabels.

    Do you know where I can purchase the i/o board cable bracket?

    jodieabc - Antwort

  7. Mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers kannst du nun den E/A Board Anschluss aus seiner Buchse auf dem Logic Board herausholen. Achte darauf, dass du den Hebel auch wirklich nur am E/A Board Kabel ansetzt und nicht an der Buchse selbst, denn sonst könnte dein Logic Board beschädigt werden.
    • Mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers kannst du nun den E/A Board Anschluss aus seiner Buchse auf dem Logic Board herausholen.

    • Achte darauf, dass du den Hebel auch wirklich nur am E/A Board Kabel ansetzt und nicht an der Buchse selbst, denn sonst könnte dein Logic Board beschädigt werden.

    Since I did not remove speakers I skipped this step and went directly to step 17

    Peter Stoll - Antwort

    I don’t understand why the instructions would tell you to remove the speakers if it wasn’t necessary. Can the battery be replaced WITHOUT removing the speakers?

    iwm4 - Antwort

  8. Hebe das Ende des E/A Board Kabels nach oben, das mit dem Logic Board verbunden war und biege es um, so dass es nicht mehr im Weg ist. Um Schäden am Kabel zu vermeiden, solltest du es nur am E/A Board Ende biegen, wo sich ein Falz befindet.
    • Hebe das Ende des E/A Board Kabels nach oben, das mit dem Logic Board verbunden war und biege es um, so dass es nicht mehr im Weg ist.

    • Um Schäden am Kabel zu vermeiden, solltest du es nur am E/A Board Ende biegen, wo sich ein Falz befindet.

  9. Setze die Spitze eines Spudgers vorsichtig unter dem rechten Lautsprecherkabel in der Nähe des Steckers an und hebe es aus seiner Buchse auf dem Logic Board heraus. Setze die Spitze eines Spudgers vorsichtig unter dem rechten Lautsprecherkabel in der Nähe des Steckers an und hebe es aus seiner Buchse auf dem Logic Board heraus.
    • Setze die Spitze eines Spudgers vorsichtig unter dem rechten Lautsprecherkabel in der Nähe des Steckers an und hebe es aus seiner Buchse auf dem Logic Board heraus.

    I have performed battery swap without disconnecting the speakers!

    Aleš Smokvina - Antwort

    Did that mean that you left the speakers attached to the case? If so, did that make removing the end sections of the battery very difficult? Thanks.

    iwm4 - Antwort

  10. Schäle das rechte Lautsprecherkabel vorsichtig aus dem oberen Gehäuse heraus. Schäle das rechte Lautsprecherkabel vorsichtig aus dem oberen Gehäuse heraus. Schäle das rechte Lautsprecherkabel vorsichtig aus dem oberen Gehäuse heraus.
    • Schäle das rechte Lautsprecherkabel vorsichtig aus dem oberen Gehäuse heraus.

    I have successfully replaced battery without removing the speaker cables, as proposed by the comments in the next steps.

    Furthermore, in the steps after 22, where the battery is removed from the upper case, I have easily performed with a credit card and a drop of rubbing alcohol on it and finished in several minutes. Try it!

    kem - Antwort

    Kem, please could you explain how you got the end battery sections out of the case with the speakers still attached. Still very puzzled by this!

    iwm4 - Antwort

  11. Entferne die folgenden Schrauben, mit denen der rechte Lautsprecher am oberen Gehäuse befestigt ist:
    • Entferne die folgenden Schrauben, mit denen der rechte Lautsprecher am oberen Gehäuse befestigt ist:

    • Eine 5,7 mm T5 Torx Schraube

    • Eine 6,5 mm T5 Torx Schraube

    • Eine 3,8 mm T5 Torx Schraube

    Make sure you replace these screws exactly where they came from, same with the other speak.

    Dustin Steward - Antwort

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  13. Hebe den rechten Lautsprecher an der Seite an, wo sich das Kabel befindet und ziehe ihn aus dem Gehäuse. Hebe den rechten Lautsprecher an der Seite an, wo sich das Kabel befindet und ziehe ihn aus dem Gehäuse. Hebe den rechten Lautsprecher an der Seite an, wo sich das Kabel befindet und ziehe ihn aus dem Gehäuse.
    • Hebe den rechten Lautsprecher an der Seite an, wo sich das Kabel befindet und ziehe ihn aus dem Gehäuse.

    When replacing with the new speaker, the new piece could have some blue strips on the cable. Remove them to let the adhesive do its job and attach the cable to the surroundings to avoid having it loose.

    Victor Alcantar - Antwort

    I was wondering where I can buy a good replacement. Some users comply about the bad quality of sound after replacing the speakers. Can you suggest a link where to buy good replacement parts (possibly Italy / EU ) ?!

    Alberto Mennella - Antwort

  14. Setze die Spitze eines Spudgers unter dem linken Lautsprecherkabel in der Nähe des Steckers an und hebe es aus seiner Buchse auf dem Logic Board heraus. Setze die Spitze eines Spudgers unter dem linken Lautsprecherkabel in der Nähe des Steckers an und hebe es aus seiner Buchse auf dem Logic Board heraus.
    • Setze die Spitze eines Spudgers unter dem linken Lautsprecherkabel in der Nähe des Steckers an und hebe es aus seiner Buchse auf dem Logic Board heraus.

    Same as my comment on Step 11: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. ( FYI - I used a heat path method, vs the solvent).

    barak - Antwort

    Yes, no need to unplug the speakers cable. I used the solent, just put speakers on the motherboard.

    Aleš Smokvina - Antwort

    slight touch of glue secures speaker cable to MB. Use steady light presuure with spudger edge to unglue and then disconnect cable from MB

    lamajr - Antwort

    I picked up my steps back here when replacing both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13”. I used the flat part of the spudger and gently, carefully applied a fulcrum upward pressure to the base of the speaker connector to help pop it off.

    Evan Shulman - Antwort

    I, too, found it unnecessary to unplug this speaker. It was easy, and not stressful to the speaker cable, to fold the speaker upwards and rest it on the motherboard.

    Ralph Begleiter - Antwort

    When removing the left speaker as shown in the image in the photo, the left-most fixing part (protrusion) is broken. Will there be any problems using it?

    JangJaeHee - Antwort

  15. Entferne die folgenden Schrauben, die den linken Lautsprecher am oberen Gehäuse befestigen:
    • Entferne die folgenden Schrauben, die den linken Lautsprecher am oberen Gehäuse befestigen:

    • Eine 5,7 mm T5 Torx Schraube

    • Eine 6,5 mm T5 Torx Schraube

    • eine 3,8 mm T5 Torx Schraube

    Same note as above: Important to keep track here of which screw is which, for reassembly. The longest screw belongs in the middle socket. The shortest goes in the socket at the bottom of the picture.

    Ralph Begleiter - Antwort

    Where can I get these 3 sizes of t5 torx screw drivers?

    greg steigleder - Antwort

    Greg, the T5 Torx screw driver is one size. The different sizes listed above are the *lengths* of the screws, not the diameter of the screw head. Hope that helps.

    Patrick G -

    My Torx screws are so locked i can not take it out. The Torx 5 screw driver slips. What can i do? Can i also get new screws later to put in?

    robertverheij - Antwort

    Hi,

    If the T5 slips you may have not the correct size ? I have done may speaker, no screw was ever that tight. All 3 screws the same problem ?

    Horst Droege -

  16. Hebe den linken Lautsprecher an der Ecke an und schiebe ihn aus dem Akku, damit du ihn aus dem oberen Gehäuse entfernen kannst. Achte darauf, dass du nicht mit dem Lautsprecherkabel an dem Schraubengewinde hängen bleibst, das an der Ecke des Gehäuses angebracht ist. Achte darauf, dass du nicht mit dem Lautsprecherkabel an dem Schraubengewinde hängen bleibst, das an der Ecke des Gehäuses angebracht ist.
    • Hebe den linken Lautsprecher an der Ecke an und schiebe ihn aus dem Akku, damit du ihn aus dem oberen Gehäuse entfernen kannst.

    • Achte darauf, dass du nicht mit dem Lautsprecherkabel an dem Schraubengewinde hängen bleibst, das an der Ecke des Gehäuses angebracht ist.

    There’s a typo in this section.

    “Lift the corner of the left speaker up and slide it out AROUND the battery to remove it from the upper case.”

    Patrick G - Antwort

  17. Trenne den Trackpad Anschluss von seiner Buchse auf dem Logic Board mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers. Trenne den Trackpad Anschluss von seiner Buchse auf dem Logic Board mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers.
    • Trenne den Trackpad Anschluss von seiner Buchse auf dem Logic Board mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers.

    The trackpad cable can also be of a different type where you pull the tape on it

    Rogier van der Heide - Antwort

  18. Hebe das Trackpad Kabel vom Akku ab, um es vom Kleber zu lösen, mit dem es gesichert ist. Sei vorsichtig und beschädige das Kabel nicht.  Wenn es sich nicht leicht ablösen lässt, dann erwärme es mit einem iOpener, einem Heißluftgebläse oder einem Haartrockner, damit der Kleber darunter weich wird. Versuche es dann nochmals.
    • Hebe das Trackpad Kabel vom Akku ab, um es vom Kleber zu lösen, mit dem es gesichert ist.

    • Sei vorsichtig und beschädige das Kabel nicht. Wenn es sich nicht leicht ablösen lässt, dann erwärme es mit einem iOpener, einem Heißluftgebläse oder einem Haartrockner, damit der Kleber darunter weich wird. Versuche es dann nochmals.

    On the picture above, it looks like, that the CIF cable for the keyboard, located right to the trackpad cable, should also be separated, but this is not necessary. You can leave it attached.

    anmeldung - Antwort

    What helped release the cable was to place the body of the spudger under the cable and rotate it upward as I gently pulled it down to release the cable from the adhesive. It may not have been necessary, but it did help.

    Todd S. Jones - Antwort

  19. Falls der Anschluss des Trackpad Kabels zusätzlich mit einem Klebeband bedeckt ist, schiebe es zurück. Mit dem Ende eines Spudgers kannst du nun die Haltelasche des ZIF-Anschlusses hochklappen. Mit dem Ende eines Spudgers kannst du nun die Haltelasche des ZIF-Anschlusses hochklappen.
    • Falls der Anschluss des Trackpad Kabels zusätzlich mit einem Klebeband bedeckt ist, schiebe es zurück.

    • Mit dem Ende eines Spudgers kannst du nun die Haltelasche des ZIF-Anschlusses hochklappen.

    Overall, I really enjoyed this project and it was a complete success but this step is the one spot I came up short. I forgot to flip the retaining tab back down when I reassembled and I got a totally unresponsive keyboard and trackpad before I opened it back up and realized I had forgotten this tiny but crucial step.

    nathan taylor - Antwort

    I also forgot to flip the ZIF connector. Thankfully my trackpad worked after.

    Make sure to flip the ZIF connector before putting the trackpad cable back, too.

    ibash - Antwort

    I did not remove this retaining clip for fear of not getting it plugged in again then just carefully folded it back to clear battery instal

    Peter Stoll - Antwort

    This was the most challenging part of the installation. Putting this tab back, it's so fragile and difficult to put back. I thought it was going to get damaged but it worked.

    Gaetano Daidone - Antwort

    Like Peter, I just folded it back a bit and had care to keep it out of the way. I think it is much better than the risk involved with taking it out.

    All in all it found it a bit less difficult than I expected - As with all the work I have done on different Apple products: Slow and careful work and following the instructions - including all the comments - seems to be the best advice.

    Adam Griggs - Antwort

    I have a semi responsive trackpad and an unrecognized keyboard. Any suggestions?

    Daniel Lynn - Antwort

    Daniel- remove and put back again the cable on the ZIF connector, making sure it is pushed all the way in before closing the retainer clip. May have a partially reinserted cable.

    drrobins - Antwort

  20. Ziehe das Trackpad Kabel gerade aus der ZiF-Buchse auf der Trackpad Steuerung heraus. Ziehe das Trackpad Kabel gerade aus der ZiF-Buchse auf der Trackpad Steuerung heraus.
    • Ziehe das Trackpad Kabel gerade aus der ZiF-Buchse auf der Trackpad Steuerung heraus.

    With all due respect, step # 19 and 20 pics shows the ZIF socket on the trackpad board, not the Mac logic board, I think...

    See step #17 which seems to be correct. There is an inconsistency in the guide.

    Just to be sure...

    Bart Van Dessel - Antwort

    This was the most difficult step for me. It was hard to locate the retaining tab on the ZIF connector and the trackpad cable had some adhesive on the bottom of it and it was difficult to remove from the socket. Be patient….

    Gary Bain - Antwort

    I skipped this two steps (19&20) , just bent the flat fable when taking the battery out.

    Aleš Smokvina - Antwort

    This does look the most frightening part of the process, that connector looks really flimsy. Is it ok to just bend it back and leave it connected as suggested?

    Jack Sukerman - Antwort

    This is the only step I skipped, as Gary Bain mentioned above there was adhesive which made it difficult to remove, and it’s probably the only step worth skipping.

    John Davis - Antwort

    Can you buy replacements for this trackpad control board? They dont seem to come with new trackpads.

    Rachel MacLeod - Antwort

    The ZIF retaining tab is a tiny black plastic bar. Pull the trackpad cable HORIZONTALLY out of the socket.

    Richard Johnson - Antwort

  21. Entferne die einzelne 3,7 mm T5 Torx Schraube, mit der das Akku Board am oberen Gehäuse befestigt ist.
    • Entferne die einzelne 3,7 mm T5 Torx Schraube, mit der das Akku Board am oberen Gehäuse befestigt ist.

    If lost where could I find a replacement for this screw?

    Justin - Antwort

  22. Der flüssige Klebstoffentferner im iFixit Akku Austausch Kit kann die Antireflex -Schicht des Bildschirms deines MacBook Pro beeinträchtigen.
    • Der flüssige Klebstoffentferner im iFixit Akku Austausch Kit kann die Antireflex -Schicht des Bildschirms deines MacBook Pro beeinträchtigen.

    • Um den Bildschirm zu schützen, lege eine Aluminiumfolie zwischen Bildschirm und Tastatur und lasse sie dort solange du arbeitest.

    I was able to remove the batteries using the plastic ifixit card only, it requires you to work it back and forth but it can be done. However, for a few bucks I would suggest the heating pad. I was able to reuse my batteries (although not suggested).

    Dustin Steward - Antwort

    This should have been Step 1.

    Richard Johnson - Antwort

  23. Wenn du ein iFixit Akku Kit mit flüssigem Klebstoffentferner verwendest, wird es jetzt Zeit, sich vorzubereiten. Wenn du die alternative Methode mit dem heißen iOpener anwendest, kannst du die folgenden drei Schritte überspringen.
    • Wenn du ein iFixit Akku Kit mit flüssigem Klebstoffentferner verwendest, wird es jetzt Zeit, sich vorzubereiten.

    • Wenn du die alternative Methode mit dem heißen iOpener anwendest, kannst du die folgenden drei Schritte überspringen.

    • Der iFixit Klebstoffentferner enthält Aceton, welches Haut und Augen reizen kann.

    • Wenn du mit dem Klebstoffentferner arbeitest und ihn aufbringst, solltest du immer deine Augen schützen. (Eine Schutzbrille ist in deinem Kit enthalten).

    • Insbesondere auch wenn du Kontaktlinsen trägst, musst du zusätzlich die Schutzbrille aufsetzen.

    • In deinem Kit sind auch Schutzhandschuhe enthalten. Wenn deine Haut empfindlich ist, solltest du die Handschuhe jetzt anziehen.

  24. Ziehe den schwarzen Gummistopfen von dem Fläschchen mit Klebstoffentferner ab. Drehe die Kappe der Flasche um sie lösen oder zu entfernen,  bevor du die Spitze des Applikators abschneidest. Die Versiegelung der Flasche wird dadurch geöffnet und der Druck kann sich ausgleichen, bevor du die Applikatiorspitze abschneidest. Wenn du diesen Schritt übergehst, dann kann die Flüssigkeit beim Abschneiden der Spitze unkontrolliert herausspritzen.
    • Ziehe den schwarzen Gummistopfen von dem Fläschchen mit Klebstoffentferner ab.

    • Drehe die Kappe der Flasche um sie lösen oder zu entfernen, bevor du die Spitze des Applikators abschneidest.

    • Die Versiegelung der Flasche wird dadurch geöffnet und der Druck kann sich ausgleichen, bevor du die Applikatiorspitze abschneidest. Wenn du diesen Schritt übergehst, dann kann die Flüssigkeit beim Abschneiden der Spitze unkontrolliert herausspritzen.

    • Schneide die verschlossene Applikatorspitze mit einer Schere ab.

    • Schneide die Spitze an der engen Stelle ab. Dadurch kannst du den Klebstoffentferner beim Ausfließen besser kontrollieren.

    • Drehe die Abdeckkappe wieder auf und verschließe sie gut, bevor du fortfährst.

    just acetone (manicure remover) is ok.

    Jimmy Jeong - Antwort

  25. Gib einige Tropfen des Klebstoffentferners  gleichmäßig unter den Rand der am weitesten rechts liegenden Akkuzelle.
    • Gib einige Tropfen des Klebstoffentferners gleichmäßig unter den Rand der am weitesten rechts liegenden Akkuzelle.

    • Du musst nicht sehr viel vom Klebstoffentferner verwenden. Das Fläschchen enthält mindestens die doppelte Menge, die du brauchst, um alle Akkuzellen zu entfernen.

    • Warte 2-3 Minuten, bis der flüssige Klebstoffentferner unter die Akkuzelle eindringt, bevor du mit dem nächsten Schritt fortfährst.

  26. Wenn du keinen flüssigen Klebstoffentferner hast, verwende einen heißen iOpener, um einen Bereich des Klebers, mit dem der Akku ins obere Gehäuse eingeklebt ist, zu erwärmen und dadurch weicher zu machen. Anschließend kannst du dann an diesem Bereich den Hebel ansetzen. Mit dem heißen iOpener kannst du die eine Hälfte der beiden am weitesten rechts gelegenen Akkuzellen bedecken.
    • Wenn du keinen flüssigen Klebstoffentferner hast, verwende einen heißen iOpener, um einen Bereich des Klebers, mit dem der Akku ins obere Gehäuse eingeklebt ist, zu erwärmen und dadurch weicher zu machen. Anschließend kannst du dann an diesem Bereich den Hebel ansetzen.

    • Mit dem heißen iOpener kannst du die eine Hälfte der beiden am weitesten rechts gelegenen Akkuzellen bedecken.

    • Nach etwa einer Minute kannst du dann den iOpener erneut erhitzen und ihn über die andere Hälfte der beiden am weitesten rechts gelegenen Akkuzellen legen.

  27. Schiebe eine Plastikkarte zwischen die am weitesten rechts gelegene Akkuzelle und das obere Gehäuse und trenne so den Kleber zwischen den beiden. Achte während dieser Prozedur darauf, dass du keine der Akkuzellen mit deinem Werkzeug beschädigst. Aus einer beschädigten Lithium-Ionen-Batterie können gefährliche Chemikalien auslaufen und/oder sie kann Feuer fangen. Verwende deshalb nur Plastikwerkzeuge. Wenn du den Austausch nach der Methode mit dem heißen iOpener vornimmst und dann beim Hebeln auf gehörigen Widerstand stößt, hör lieber auf und erhitze den Bereich nochmal mit dem iOpener, bevor du weitermachst.
    • Schiebe eine Plastikkarte zwischen die am weitesten rechts gelegene Akkuzelle und das obere Gehäuse und trenne so den Kleber zwischen den beiden.

    • Achte während dieser Prozedur darauf, dass du keine der Akkuzellen mit deinem Werkzeug beschädigst. Aus einer beschädigten Lithium-Ionen-Batterie können gefährliche Chemikalien auslaufen und/oder sie kann Feuer fangen. Verwende deshalb nur Plastikwerkzeuge.

    • Wenn du den Austausch nach der Methode mit dem heißen iOpener vornimmst und dann beim Hebeln auf gehörigen Widerstand stößt, hör lieber auf und erhitze den Bereich nochmal mit dem iOpener, bevor du weitermachst.

    I suggest taping the batteries together on the top, this will keep them intact while you work the card back and forth. If you are very careful during these steps you can reuse your batter but make sure to inspect it Very well. If there is any damage whatsoever do not run the risk of leaking fluid to the rest of your computer.

    Dustin Steward - Antwort

    Could I suggest that the plastic card be filed at the business edge like a chisel to make it easier to slide under the battery breaking the glue seal. I did it to mine and made it just that bit easier to break that glue seal. I use the heat method. Otherwise it worked well.

    Ray Miller - Antwort

    With the help of some acetone a little syringe and a credit card, I found the whole battery removal part to be easier than I expected.

    Adam Griggs - Antwort

  28. Wiederhole den Vorgang mit der benachbarten Akkuzelle: Gib eine kleine Menge des flüssigen Klebstoffentferners unter die Akkuzelle  und warte 2-3 Minuten, damit er einziehen und den Kleber auflösen kann. Wenn du mit der alternativen Methode arbeitest, erhitze bei Bedarf den Bereich erneut mit dem iOpener.
    • Wiederhole den Vorgang mit der benachbarten Akkuzelle:

    • Gib eine kleine Menge des flüssigen Klebstoffentferners unter die Akkuzelle und warte 2-3 Minuten, damit er einziehen und den Kleber auflösen kann.

    • Wenn du mit der alternativen Methode arbeitest, erhitze bei Bedarf den Bereich erneut mit dem iOpener.

    • Schiebe eine Plastikkarte etwa zweieinhalb Zentimeter zwischen den Akku und das obere Gehäuse. Dann heble die Zelle langsam nach oben, damit der ganze Kleber sich löst.

  29. Belasse die Plastikkarte erst einmal unter den beiden am weitesten rechts liegenden Akkuzellen, damit sie nicht wieder am oberen Gehäuse ankleben. Wenn du einen iOpener benutzt, erhitze ihn nochmal und lege ihn diesmal über die am weitesten links gelegenen Akkuzellen. Lass den iOpener auch wieder jeweils etwa eine Minute an seiner Position und wärme ihn zwischendurch wieder auf, um je eine Hälfte der am weitesten links liegenden Akkuzellen zu erwärmen.
    • Belasse die Plastikkarte erst einmal unter den beiden am weitesten rechts liegenden Akkuzellen, damit sie nicht wieder am oberen Gehäuse ankleben.

    • Wenn du einen iOpener benutzt, erhitze ihn nochmal und lege ihn diesmal über die am weitesten links gelegenen Akkuzellen.

    • Lass den iOpener auch wieder jeweils etwa eine Minute an seiner Position und wärme ihn zwischendurch wieder auf, um je eine Hälfte der am weitesten links liegenden Akkuzellen zu erwärmen.

  30. Wiederhole den obigen Vorgang, um nun die beiden am weitesten links liegenden Akkuzellen aus dem oberen Gehäuse herauszubekommen. Denke daran, dass du wieder erst eine kleine Menge Klebstoffentferner unter jede Akkuzelle einträufeln und dann 2-3 Minuten warten musst, bis er eingedrungen ist und den Kleber aufgeweicht hat. Mit einer zweiten Plastikkarte kannst du jetzt die beiden am weitesten links liegenden Akkuzellen vom oberen Gehäuse trennen.
    • Wiederhole den obigen Vorgang, um nun die beiden am weitesten links liegenden Akkuzellen aus dem oberen Gehäuse herauszubekommen.

    • Denke daran, dass du wieder erst eine kleine Menge Klebstoffentferner unter jede Akkuzelle einträufeln und dann 2-3 Minuten warten musst, bis er eingedrungen ist und den Kleber aufgeweicht hat.

    • Mit einer zweiten Plastikkarte kannst du jetzt die beiden am weitesten links liegenden Akkuzellen vom oberen Gehäuse trennen.

    The adhesive for my old battery was only in strips around the underneath so if you can get the outer edge loose you can GENTLY but firmly pull slowly upwards and prob get it off ok without too much digging. Use a hair dryer for 30 seconds or so and it’ll be just enough to break it loose. (If you don’t have a heat gun).

    Faslane - Antwort

  31. Im Folgenden wird der Hebelvorgang wiederholt. Setze die Plastikkarte zwischen der zweiten Akkuzelle von links und dem oberen Gehäuse an, um den Kleber zwischen den beiden zu lösen und heble die Zelle vom Gehäuse ab. Setze die Plastikkarte zwischen der zweiten Akkuzelle von links und dem oberen Gehäuse an, um den Kleber zwischen den beiden zu lösen und heble die Zelle vom Gehäuse ab.
    • Im Folgenden wird der Hebelvorgang wiederholt.

    • Setze die Plastikkarte zwischen der zweiten Akkuzelle von links und dem oberen Gehäuse an, um den Kleber zwischen den beiden zu lösen und heble die Zelle vom Gehäuse ab.

    Again, The adhesive for my old battery was only in strips around the underneath so if you can get the outer edge loose you can GENTLY but firmly pull slowly upwards and prob get it off ok without too much digging. Use a hair dryer for 30 seconds or so and it’ll be just enough to break it loose. (If you don’t have a heat gun).

    Faslane - Antwort

  32. Belasse die zweite Karte in der Ecke zwischen den beiden linken Zellen. Wenn du einen iOpener benutzt, erhitze ihn nochmal und lege ihn über die mittleren Akkuzellen. Lass den iOpener wie vorhin jeweils etwa eine Minute an seiner Position und wärme ihn zwischendurch wieder auf, um je eine Hälfte der am weitesten links liegenden Akkuzellen zu erwärmen.
    • Belasse die zweite Karte in der Ecke zwischen den beiden linken Zellen.

    • Wenn du einen iOpener benutzt, erhitze ihn nochmal und lege ihn über die mittleren Akkuzellen.

    • Lass den iOpener wie vorhin jeweils etwa eine Minute an seiner Position und wärme ihn zwischendurch wieder auf, um je eine Hälfte der am weitesten links liegenden Akkuzellen zu erwärmen.

    • Für die folgenden Schritte kannst du entweder eine dritte Karte benutzen, oder die aus der rechten Ecke. Der Kleber in der rechten Ecke sollte jetzt trocken / kühl genug sein, um die Zellen bei Bedarf leicht wieder hochziehen zu können.

  33. Wenn du mit dem flüssigen Klebstoffentferner arbeitest, dann gib noch ein paar weitere Tropfen davon unter jede der letzten beiden mittleren Zellen. Es kann hilfreich sein, die eine Seite deines MacBook Pros ein paar Zentimeter anzuheben, so dass der Klebstoffentferner in die richtige Richtung unterhalb der Akkuzellen fließt. Du kannst auf einer Seite deines MacBook auch einfach ein stabiles Buch oder einen Schaumstoffblock unterlegen, während du daran arbeitest. Lasse den Klebstoffentferner 2-3 Minuten einwirken, bevor du weitermachst.
    • Wenn du mit dem flüssigen Klebstoffentferner arbeitest, dann gib noch ein paar weitere Tropfen davon unter jede der letzten beiden mittleren Zellen.

    • Es kann hilfreich sein, die eine Seite deines MacBook Pros ein paar Zentimeter anzuheben, so dass der Klebstoffentferner in die richtige Richtung unterhalb der Akkuzellen fließt. Du kannst auf einer Seite deines MacBook auch einfach ein stabiles Buch oder einen Schaumstoffblock unterlegen, während du daran arbeitest.

    • Lasse den Klebstoffentferner 2-3 Minuten einwirken, bevor du weitermachst.

    • Hebe die rechten Akkuzellen vorsichtig an und aus dem Weg, damit du mit einer Plastikkarte unter die rechte mittlere Akkuzelle kommst.

    • Schiebe die Karte etwa zur Hälfte ihrer Länge unter die Akkuzelle, um den Kleber zwischen der Zelle und dem Gehäuse zu lösen.

    • Achte darauf, dass du nicht an die Trackpad Steuerung kommst. Versuche die Karte in Richtung Logic Board zu schieben, wo auch der Kleber ist.

    • Lasse die Karte stecken, damit der Kleber nicht wieder haften kann.

    I think this part killed my trackpad…. I think it should be mentioned that adhesive remover can get into the trackpad cover plate.

    Gary Yuen - Antwort

    I did not bend my batteries nearly this much, it allowed me to reuse them but it takes patiences to get them free.

    Dustin Steward - Antwort

    Take a look at the trackpad replacement guide to get a sense of where the adhesive is:

    MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Anfang 2015 Trackpad austauschen

    ibash - Antwort

  34. Wiederhole den selben Vorgang bei der letzten verbleibenden Akkuzelle. Halte die äußeren Zellen so aus dem Weg, dass du eine Plastikkarte etwa zur Hälfte unter die linke mittlere Akkuzelle schieben kannst und pass dabei auf, dass du nicht an die Trackpad Steuerung kommst. Halte die äußeren Zellen so aus dem Weg, dass du eine Plastikkarte etwa zur Hälfte unter die linke mittlere Akkuzelle schieben kannst und pass dabei auf, dass du nicht an die Trackpad Steuerung kommst.
    • Wiederhole den selben Vorgang bei der letzten verbleibenden Akkuzelle.

    • Halte die äußeren Zellen so aus dem Weg, dass du eine Plastikkarte etwa zur Hälfte unter die linke mittlere Akkuzelle schieben kannst und pass dabei auf, dass du nicht an die Trackpad Steuerung kommst.

  35. Zurück zu der Karte, die noch unter der rechten mittleren Zelle steckt; drehe sie hin und her, damit sich der Akku vollständig vom oberen Gehäuse löst. Jetzt sollte jede Klebestelle, die den Akku am oberen Gehäuse fixiert, gelöst sein und der Akku sollte sich nun einfach abheben lassen.
    • Zurück zu der Karte, die noch unter der rechten mittleren Zelle steckt; drehe sie hin und her, damit sich der Akku vollständig vom oberen Gehäuse löst.

    • Jetzt sollte jede Klebestelle, die den Akku am oberen Gehäuse fixiert, gelöst sein und der Akku sollte sich nun einfach abheben lassen.

    • Wenn sich der Akku nicht einfach so herausnehmen lässt, musst du eventuell den iOpener nochmals erhitzen und auf die betroffenen Stellen legen. Dann kannst du mithilfe der Plastikkarten weiter durch den Kleber gehen.

    I found this to be more difficult than the edge sections. I had to reapply a few times the adhesive removal from both sides of the center sections before I was able to pry the battery. Take time and use the adhesive removal several times.

    Maxim Bulat - Antwort

    I dipped the edge of a stiff credit card (actually health card lol) into 91% isopropyl alcohol and slid that in from the sides..keep pressure while the alcohol works it’s way thru the adhesive..just be careful when it finally lets go..

    Adam - Antwort

    Thanks to Adam’s suggestion about sharpening the plastic card and using alcohol plus the heat gun I easily got to this point. Then I re attached the speakers before dry fitting the new battery.

    Peter Stoll - Antwort

  36. Entferne den Akku. Entferne alle alten Klebereste aus dem Gehäuse des MacBook Pro, bevor du einen neuen Akku einsetzt.
    • Entferne den Akku.

    • Entferne alle alten Klebereste aus dem Gehäuse des MacBook Pro, bevor du einen neuen Akku einsetzt.

    • Mit etwas Glück kannst du jeden einzelnen Klebestreifen langsam mit den Fingern abziehen.

    • Falls das nicht klappt, träufle etwas Klebstoffentferner auf jeden Klebestreifen und lasse ihn 2-3 Minuten einwirken. Dann kannst du die Klebestreifen mit einem Plektron oder einem anderen geeigneten Werkzeug aus deinem Kit abkratzen. Das ist etwas langwierig, hier hilft dir nur Geduld!

    • Wische den restlichen Klebstoffentferner ab und lass dein MacBook Pro ein paar Minuten an der Luft trocknen.

    • Beim Ersatzakku sind die Klebestreifen bereits angebracht. Probiere zunächst aus, wie der Akku hineinpasst und achte darauf, ihn genau auszurichten, bevor du die Schutzstreifen vom Kleber abziehst. Anschliessend musst du jede Zelle gut festdrücken. Zusätzliche Folien, die sich nicht auf dem Originalakku befanden, solltest du zuletzt entfernen.

    • Kalibriere den neu eingebauten Akku: Lade ihn auf 100% und lasse ihn mindestens zwei weitere Stunden am Ladegerät. Ziehe den Stecker und benutze dein MacBook normal, um den Akku zu entladen. Wenn die Ladeanzeige am Minimum ist, dann speichere ab und lasse dein Laptop an, bis es von selbst ausgeht. Warte wenigstens 5 Stunden und lade dann auf 100% auf.

    • Wenn dir nach der Installation deines neuen Akkus etwas Ungewöhnliches auffällt oder Probleme auftreten, kann es sein, dass du den SMC deines MacBook Pros zurücksetzen musst.

    Remember that the speakers fit on either side of the battery. When placing the new battery, make sure to leave enough space for them.

    Cesario Uy - Antwort

    I wish they had put your comment in the guide itself. It took me a while to realize that the speaker won’t go in because the battery was off a bit towards the side of the computer. Fortunately the adhesive was not as strong as the original.

    Yulun Hsieh -

    good point, if you tuck the battery cell you can also firm up the speakers and then install the cell, just a tiny bit tricky since you have to tuck it under the speaker a bit.

    Faslane -

    Does anyone meet the problem that there is a slightly misalignment for the new battery?

    Lei Xu - Antwort

    Yes. I did encounter the same issue. Need to stretch a little to force it in.

    ramakrishnr -

    Yes, I had to adjust tiny guys at both ends when I was putting back the speakers.

    yon2maru -

    Why do we need to replace the battery for this? Can’t we put back the original one in place after we replaced the trackpad? If sohow to glue the original battery back?

    benjamin parpillon - Antwort

    There’s a fairly high risk of damage to the battery—they are not designed to be serviced or removed. Reinstalling the old battery may put your laptop at risk, and can even be a fire hazard.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    yeah DEFINITELY do NOT put the old battery in. Chances are it’s damaged and all bent up and you definitely do not want this back in a working machine. Spend the money and get a new replacement or you’ll regret it.

    Faslane -

    Merci beaucoup ! Très bien expliqué parfait !

    Valerie - Antwort

    My batteries were swollen pushing out on the keyboard and back of the case. The battery replacement was in my mind rather simple given the instructions. It was about taking time and logically laying removed items with screws. The battery removal was a little more completed…my approach was to put the opened case with batteries only exposed to the direct sunlight for 45 or so minutes. So taking time with plastic tools provided starting in the corner of the outermost batteries and working toward the center two was key. I put waxed paper between the batteries and the case to prevent reattachment. Removal from start to finish was about 20 minutes working slowly feeling and looking for the release of adhesive. I was concerned about putting liquid directly on the metal parts so I used acetone on a rag to clean remaining adhesive. Alignment of the batteries and circuit board was key to the installation. “Dry fit the batteries and board to see how they will go in. Then begin in the middle outward.

    Kevin - Antwort

    my keyboard is swollen also. did it damage the keyboard? did the swelling of the upper case go down after inserting new battery?

    thanks

    Bob

    bob bulliard -

    I found mineral turpentine on a piece of cloth removed the remaining glue without making too much of a mess.

    Ray Miller - Antwort

    My new battery now shows zero cycles but the age is still the original 4.5 years.

    My battery lasted to 730 cycles 4.5 years and 80% health, it was time to change it out as the battery was not lasting as long as I would like.

    Does resetting the SMC also reset the computer battery age?

    Ray Miller - Antwort

    It doesn't reset the ago, no.

    Faslane -

    my keyboard is swollen also. did it damage the keyboard? did the swelling of the upper case go down after inserting new battery?

    thanks

    Bob

    bob bulliard - Antwort

    I had bulging both on the top and bottom of the case. It all went away with the new batteries and everything fit perfectly just like brand new when I was all done. So the case bulging was not permanent.

    jklarr -

    Friendly warning: Make sure the adhesive remover evaporates before connecting the new battery!

    I successfully changed the battery in my 2015 MacBook Pro, everything powered on just fine, then I put it in my neoprene sleeve. The next morning I noticed some of the adhesive remover on my keyboard. I wiped it off, powered it on and then it suddenly shut down. After a couple more tries I could no longer get it to power on. It was dead. Took it to a repair shop and they concluded it was most likely liquid damage to the logic board. Total bummer. I have sense learned that the adhesive remover itself is not conductive, but it can dissolve something like glue, and then become conductive. The adhesive remover also cools as it evaporates which attracts moisture. So please make sure your adhesive remover evaporates completely before connecting your new battery.

    Jonathan Flower - Antwort

    I did the SMC reset but still nothing. Is not charging at all.

    nasho007 - Antwort

    Tips for alignment:

    1. Do not remove the plastic covering the adhesive and then try to align the battery. Leave the plastic on and remove one at a time after the battery is aligned.

    2. Use masking tape to hold the battery cells together while aligning, otherwise they flop around a lot.

    3. Put your speakers next to the battery cells (before removing plastic on adhesive) to ensure you’re leaving enough room.

    4. Make sure your battery connector is well aligned too.

    ibash - Antwort

    I’d recommend once new battery is placed and NOT stuck down, to connect the power and charger to make sure it charges up. I got a bad “new” battery and had to do a second removal and replace….ugh.

    Faslane - Antwort

    I actually also, installed the speakers back before adhering new battery down, it was a pretty tight fit. Also one speaker on each side has a smaller screw than the other 2 so be aware to get them back in the correct spot. I also had one of the long screws that wouldn’t fit in the spot so I switched them, so you might be careful of that too…not sure why but it wouldn’t thread in….weird.

    Faslane - Antwort

    In fact I think each of the three speaker screws are of a different length.

    Adam Griggs -

    one more thing, if you install the speakers first (totally do-able) you’ll take off the adhesive on the outer most cell on each side first and you’ll approach it from the top and tuck it under the very edge of speaker…after that’s done press down when happy with alignment.

    Faslane - Antwort

    In conjuction with the owner of the MacBook, we decided not to stick the new battery down, specially because it is used 99% of the time on a stand and connected to a monitor. Will repost if this seems to give any issue.

    Adam Griggs - Antwort

    Thanks for this excellent kit and the detailed instruction guide!

    Michael Lorenz - Antwort

    Once the battery is removed and you want to glue the new one, make sure that you leave enough room for the speakers. Honestly the battery change was far easier that what I thought, I think everyone is capable of doing it. Great tutorial by the way, thank you for the work !

    Thomas Alliot - Antwort

    I am still very puzzled by the instructions to remove the speakers! Is it necessary to remove them both or not? Sorry if I’m being a bit dense!

    iwm4 - Antwort

Abschluss

Vergleiche dein Ersatzteil mit dem Originalteil. Möglicherweise musst du fehlende Teile übertragen oder Schutzfolien vom Neuteil abziehen, bevor du es einbauen kannst.

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenbauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

Bringe deinen Elektromüll zu einem zugelassenen Entsorger.

Hat die Reparatur nicht den gewünschten Erfolg gebracht? Auf unserem Antworten-Forum kannst du Hilfe bei der Fehlersuche finden.

319 weitere Nutzer haben diese Anleitung absolviert.

Besonderer Dank geht an diese Übersetzer:

100%

Diese Übersetzer helfen uns, die Welt in Ordnung zu bringen! Wie kann ich mithelfen?
Beginne zu übersetzen ›

Andrew Optimus Goldheart

Mitglied seit: 17.10.2009

455.758 Reputation

410 Anleitungen geschrieben

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iFixit Mitglied von iFixit

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12.985 Anleitungen geschrieben

is it possible to use MBP early 2015's battery on a late 2013 model?

gianluca pertosa - Antwort

No, they're different parts.

fastasleep -

I wonder the same.

Amazon https://www.amazon.de/EGOWAY-A1493-A1582... claims to work for

Compatible with Laptop Models: Mac Book Pro 11.1 13" Retina A1502 ME864xx/A / ME865xx/A/ ME866xx/A - (Late 2013 Version) Mac Book Pro 13" Retina "Core i5" 2.4 Mac Book Pro 13" Retina "Core i5" 2.6 Mac Book Pro 13" Retina "Core i7" 2.8 MGX72xx/A / MGX82xx/A / MGX92xx/A - (Mid 2014 Version) Mac Book Pro 13" Retina "Core i5" 2.4 Mac Book Pro 13" Retina "Core i5" 2.6 Mac Book Pro 13" Retina "Core i7" 2.8 Compatible with Laptop Models: Mac Book Pro 12.1 13" Retina A1502 MF839xx/A / MF840xx/A/ MF841xx/A/ MF843xx/A - (Early 2015 Version) Mac Book Pro 13" Retina "Core i5" 2.7 Mac Book Pro 13" Retina "Core i5" 2.9 Mac Book Pro 13" Retina "Core i7" 3.1

Martin -

Thanks to this guide I saved my broken MacBook Pro from a coffee spill that killed the battery. It cost me about 30% compared to what it would have cost to have the battery changed at an Apple authorized repair center. It wasn't easy to do, but that just made it all the more satisfying.

One comment: the new battery pack I bought came attached to a thin film which had to be removed. I unfortunately tore off some of the strips of glue attached to the back of the battery cells, before getting the hang of it. No big deal. But if you have to do the same thing: peel slowly.

Fredrik - Antwort

After i replace the battery, the new battery is outofsync with osx battery indicator. When the indicator hit the 30% mark the macbook just shutdown completly. How do i syncroniz the new battery with osx?

The tutorial i saw only, tell you to fully charged the battery and let it depleet until the warning message pop up that your battery is low and your mac go into sleep mod. Problem my mac cant go into sleep mod because it thinks that it has 30% left of juice.

Is there any method to change the sleep setting or to force a recalibration?

enis alijagic - Antwort

I would download an application called coconut battery from here: http://www.coconut-flavour.com/coconutba...

This will indicate your battery's current health (I am not sure how accurate it is or how it measures the milliamps/hour) which might help you determine when you need to recharge it. I don't know what else you could do but I'd check the battery's health before anything since it might be causing the problem if it is faulty.

Alex Someone -

Brilliant guide, worked a treat.

Was tricky to remove the battery even with iOpener but carefully persevered. Took around 1hr 15 in total.

Thanks so much, this saved my girlfriend a lot of money!

Ben Saunders - Antwort

How strong is the adhesive on the iFixit replacement battery, compared to the Apple OEM adhesive? Are we looking at a similar painful extraction process if/when we pull the replacement battery?

For that matter, is an Apple-esque strong adhesive actually necessary in this application? Double-sided tape is usually weaker; it might be a little thinner than the adhesive layer, and certainly far more user serviceable. Would tape be sufficient to hold the battery in place? Once you've got the bottom case screwed back on, the battery is immobilized anyway.

adlerpe - Antwort

I really want to know the answer to this one

frugalpov -

It's still going to be fairly painful to remove. The battery needs to be very well secured—you don't want a soft-shell lithium ion battery coming loose and moving around inside the laptop. Even a little bit of movement could be dangerous.

Jeff Suovanen -

Saved me fortune. I was using the laptop for more than year as a desktop. The new battery helped me bring the macbook back to life.

Dipak Patil - Antwort

Hi Dipak,

Are you from India? I try to Oder the Mac battery but the product can’t be shipped to India. Is there any other website that I can order the battery?

Tsering Dhondup -

Thanks for the guide! It helped me to save my MacBook from a coffee spill.

Pan Fantomas - Antwort

Apple Canada quoted me ~300$ for battery + keyboard replacement though acknowledged that the battery had died prematurely (1.5 years since the date of purchase). When I opened the case two out of six sections were swollen. I ordered from ifixit their battery and the tools and with rate conversion + delivery to the border + taxes at the border it came to 180$. After ~2 hours I have 100% healthy battery installed in my macbook pro and it saved me 120$.

Maxim Bulat - Antwort

This kit is a lifesaver. Apple was going to charge me over $800 to repair my battery because it required “more labor” due to the retina display. It took my husband less than an hour to completely replace my battery with this kit.

Kaitlin Pruitt - Antwort

Totally doable, took about 15 minutes to unscrew screws and carefully unplug cables. The only time consuming part was the 2-3 minute solvent and wait for each of the 6 cells of the pack. I was intimidate by the difficulty rating but it’s not that bad. Local Apple certified repair shop wanted $350.

Andrew Lamoureux - Antwort

It was a lot easier than I thought. I used a wheat cushion we had at home to remove the battery and it took less than ten minutes to remove the old battery.

Peter Olsson - Antwort

Actually did this in a different way. Easy 10 minute job ! get a 50mm so called "Japanese putty knife" which usually comes is a set of 3-4 with various widths. Cost about 3 euro and available at any paint shop. They are basically thin METAL versions of the Ifixit plastic card. BUT it can be used differently. Rub the back end over som 80 grit sandpaper to make it sharp. Not too sharp, more like a blunt knife. Now get your girlfriends (or boyfriends :-) ) hair dryer and heat the metal up a bit. Again, not too hot. Then insert it under the first battery and apply some pressure while wiggling it around a bit. The warm tip will easily cut through the glue. Repeat the heating- cutting cycle a few times until all cells are removed. It took me all of 10 minutes to do. I needed to replace te keyboard and I could actually still re-use the battery pack ! Enjoy

Eric Vuurman - Antwort

I have repaired many MBP’s in the past. After fixing this one, my keyboard no longer works. I re-read the steps to ensure I was not missing a keyboard connection anywhere but none was to be found. Trackpad works great and there isn’t a single drop of adhesive liquid that was over used or pour over onto. Any ideas?

mrrobertbuss - Antwort

Thank you very much.

I order this kit and got it deliver to Colombia (South America). Even with shipping and taxes, it cost me less than half of what an Apple Authorised Service Provider was charging me.

Instructions are clear and complete.

Just do it with patience and all will be fine.

Federico Jaramillo Martínez - Antwort

Everything is working perfectly, very detailed steps, perfect explanations! Thank you for this beautiful guide, it was such a pleasure to complete each step!

Bogdan Cateriniuc - Antwort

Just completed this. Was much easier and quicker than I thought. Apple wanted 700 dollars to “fix” coffee spilled on my laptop. Couldn’t just replace the battery, had to do this and that and blah blah blah for 700 dollars. Ran a diagnostics test and noticed only my battery was kaput. Bought the kit here through iFixit and this was my first computer job, ever. Not bad at all and typing on that very computer as we speak. Thanks for the awesome kit and for this awesome guide!

b_rg_r - Antwort

@b_rg_r Congrats! Be sure to look over the logic board carefully if you haven’t done so yet—any lingering spills or corrosion can be cleaned with a soft toothbrush and >90% isopropyl alcohol. More detailed instructions are here. Liquid damage can be tricky and will sometimes behave normally for a while until the corrosion builds up, and then things suddenly go sideways, so check carefully! Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

The procedures work like a charm.

Thanks for the comprehensive guidelines.

Note: Make sure to flip the retaining tab on the ZIF connector. I forgot in the first try an my trackpad and keyboard was not working. :D

Jagajith Monappan Kalarickal - Antwort

Das hat super geklappt ,ich bin sehr zufrieden.

Guido Lucas - Antwort

Hello! my children spill coconut oil on my MacBook pro and everything work normally but when I removed the battery I drill one cell of the battery. I just have an interesting question: is it possible to dissociate the perfored cell to the others and continue to use the same battery ?

tex - Antwort

A damaged battery is potentially dangerous and shouldn’t be used. Liquid damage alone is often enough to make it unsafe; with a puncture, it’s a no-brainer. Get a new battery. If you’re not comfortable doing it yourself, find a repair shop that can replace it for you. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

THANKS to ifixit!!! Works perfectly!!! The battery as well as the description!

Tobias Ehlers - Antwort

I just finished replacing the battery. The guide was just perfect and the machine lives!

ershler - Antwort

I buy battery kit. I follow guide. My computer now has 103% state of health and an extra 3 hours of run time. Perfect.

I’m not sure I would call this guide difficult - don’t let this put you off. If you follow all the steps and go carefully with the adhesive remover (and don’t prod too forcefully with those cards) it should all go smoothly. Much easier than things like replacing iPhone home buttons where there are lots of ways you can make a mess. Great work iFixit for the guide and a very high quality replacement battery. €100 saved.

Alex - Antwort

Merci pour ce guide très très utile ! Premièrement Attention positionnement de la nouvelle batterie ++ voir plus bas !

L’opération est délicate mais largement faisable même pour un débutant sans expérience d’électronique !

Bien préparer le travail, lire le tutoriel et savoir toutes les étapes est essentiel ! S’organiser en terme de place, d’outils, lumière, perturbation extérieure est aussi important pour pas se faire dépasser par les événements !

J’aimerais aussi dire que au début on n’ose pas forcer pour déconnecter certains câbles mais c’est bien car en fait cela vient relativement facilement si on tire dans le bon sens ! Certains sont plus dur que d’autre mais on comprend vite comment on peut forcer ou pas.

La nouvelle batterie … faites attention a son positionnement +++ . Pour mon expérience avant de la coller j’ai voulu tester la batterie avec les haut parleurs et vérifier si tout se positionnaient correctement ! Après avoir mis des marques au crayon de bois j’ai pu continuer sereinement.

Encore Merci :) !

marot - Antwort

Thanx for the tutorial but was a trackpad issue macbook pro 2015 i changed it put back the battery the laptop is working very fine 300 cycles of battery BUT I GET SERVICE BATTERY when i click the battery icon how do i get rid of it

allen rwegasila - Antwort

The battery in this laptop should never be re-used after being removed—it’s easily damaged and becomes a potential fire hazard. Replace the battery ASAP.

Jeff Suovanen -

This guide was fantastic and helped me plan and execute the task. I did everything as instructed except for removing the trackpad cable in step 20. I wasn’t sure how the ZIF cable attached and didn’t want to risk it. The cable was only marginally in the way and didn’t affect the install. I’m performing the calibration now and we’ll see how long the battery holds up… at least I’m confident that the install was perfect. It is also helpful when the back is off to take a peek around and clean up any dust balls, gunk, etc.

B P - Antwort

Thanks for this guide it is great! But after replacing the battery trackpad is dead. Any idea? should i replace cable?

Tomaz Utrosa - Antwort

Same here, just replaced the battery tonight precisely following the ifixit guide and the trackpad is not functioning. What is the solution?

Brian Crink -

Double-check everything in Steps 17-20. Make sure the sockets are clean and the cable is fully seated at both ends, and that there’s no damage to the cable itself.

Jeff Suovanen -

@jeffsu I rechecked and reconnected several times. Checked sockets, replaced the ribbon cable and I/O board cable. Installed the battery at 35%, it is not holding charge and the MacBook remains at 1% and dies immediately if unplugged. Reconnected the battery and no difference. At login screen Bluetooth mouse and keyboard don’t work but at the disk password login screen the Bluetooth devices work. Macbook’s Trackpad and keyboard still don’t work. What is the solution?

Brian Crink - Antwort

Sounds like your machine has multiple issues; this is too much to troubleshoot in the guide comments section. Try posting over in the Answers forum. There are lots of posts on the keyboard/trackpad issue already if you’re looking for ideas. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

Super Reparaturanleitung mit dem EU123054-5 MacBook Pro 13" Retina (Early 2015) Battery Options: Fix Kit hat das ohne Problme funktioniert.

Dauer etwa 1,5 Std. mit allen Reinigungsarbeiten (Klebereste entfernen) und Wartezeit zum ablüften. Für 110€ gegenüber 230-250€ ist das eine tolle Lösung für einen neuen Accu.

Vielen Dank an Andrew Optimus Goldheart und den 6 anderen Mitwirkenden. Besonderen Dank an Annika Faelker für die super Übersetzung.

Schmitt - Antwort

Replaced a very puffed battery using this guide, went just fine using adhesive remover.

It was a bit easier than I assumed, but dealing with that glue is far more irritating than I thought it would be too.

Steve - Antwort

Bravo ! Super “Pas à pas”. L’opération s’est déroulée nickel. Mon conseil :

lire intégralement le “Pas à pas” avant d’attaquer. Préparer son matériel, être ordonner et surtout prendre son temps ….

Bruno Villers - Antwort

Easy replacement, as long as you are following the instructions. From start to finish: ONE HOUR. I did not use any chemicals to dislodge the old battery — instead I used a hair dryer (set to medium) to apply heat to the old battery. The new battery went in just fine, and, in a few minutes, the laptop was happy again. Thank you, iFixit. Good stuff!

Serge N - Antwort

The batteries in my laptop were so puffed that the laptop was bending and the top wouldn’t close properly anymore. So, when OS X says that your batteries need to be serviced, it means it.

That being said, this is *NOT* an easy repair. To start, I cracked the fragile corners on the battery. They are marked on the cellophane covering the battery, but I didn’t notice until *after* I had already cracked them. Sigh. Bought a new battery.

For me, the biggest issue was getting the new batteries in place properly. I had to lift and reposition the batteries with very sticky adhesive several times in order to get the position correct and have enough clearance for the speakers. Some advice/pictures/video on how to put the batteries back in with that sticky adhesive back would help tremendously.

Thanks for the guide and kit. I successfully installed a new battery, but I think I’ll leave this up to folks who do these kinds of battery repairs as a business next time.

Andrew L. - Antwort

It is mandatory to check the Age of the new Batterie, the Batterie should not older than on or two Month, from the current Date you will change it.

Also you don’t need a App to check the Batterie, Simply go to The Apple symbol , hit About this Mac, hit System Information, go to Hardware, and hit Power supply , you Batterie Production year/month how many charge cycles and so and so

esg2 - Antwort

It is maybe cheaper to remove the Batterie at your own, but the solvent can destroy a lot of the inner stuff of your MacBook when come into Places it should not go.and there is a high Risk to damage some stuff on the MotherBoard . And there is one Important thing you have to consider, no Garantie if something goes wrong you are on yourself. So saving 120$ dollar is no Option if you destroy your Motherboard . I’d rather pay the 350$ for the Change even I am qualified enough to do it myself, and there is also in the case the new Batterie is to old I can go Back and let them Change it and this time for free. Li-Po Batteries aging also when not used.

esg2 - Antwort

SENSATIONELL! Superschnelle Lieferung meines Ersatzakkus. Akku genau nach Anleitung eingebaut, alles funktioniert. Ersatzakkus + Werkzeug + Anleitung = PERFEKT.

Oliver Schmucker - Antwort

Thank you very much, my battery was swollen and I got an outrageous quote from Apple Authorized dealer for the battery replacement. did it myself and saved over 60% of the cost.

Thank you once again. it took me about 1.5 hours to complete, I didn’t use the solvent, i used I-remover and the battery removed in about 10 minutes.

Adewale Soetan - Antwort

I replaced my broken battery today, began charging but it stalled at 51% (I don’t know where it started). It says that the battery condition is at the ‘Replace Now’ stage.

I’m not even sure where to begin troubleshooting this.

Nathan Bryant - Antwort

My battery stills in 1% and says battery condition “replace now”, did the SMC reset and remains with the same problem, someone help!!

Santiago García -

This was much easier than than expected, the adhesive remover (which I think is just acetone) worked really well. I was worried that the cause of the problem was the battery charging controller and the the swelling would just return, but did not realize that the controller comes with the battery, so I am less concerned now. I was also concerned that the swelling, which caused the laptop not to sit properly on a desk, and the cover to fully close would still remain after replacing the battery, but it seems like this was all due to the swollen battery and once replaced everything seems fine (sits flat and cover fully closes again)

John Davis - Antwort

If I change the battery on a MacBook Pro running Catalina, will it still work or is there a mechanism Apple build in Catalina so it won’t accept the battery as its own and therefore prohibt to run?

Hannes - Antwort

Hi guys,

great kit and great instructional video. I have successfully replaced my old battery with the new one. However, even after 3 SMC resets the batteries is not being recognised and it doesn’t charge.

what might be the cause and the solution? Thank you

Edward - Antwort

same problem, my battery stills in1% “replace battery”

Santiago García -

What’s the difference to the late 2014 battery?

IF123-054-5 A1582 for A1502 Early 2015 (6560 mAh) vs.

IF123-053 A1493 for A1502 Mid 2014 (6330 mAh)

I’m afraid they are incompatible?

Martin - Antwort

However, products such as B07H31GXJ2 claim to compatible for both A1582 and 1493

Martin -

I was not sure of my abilities, but I needed to fix my MacBook Pro 13" Retina (Early 2015). This seemed to be the best, though slightly more expensive, way to go about it. I’m happy about how it all went. I did a few of the short cuts and used a hair dryer instead of the adhesive remover, though it required a bit more muscle and patience. I appreciate all the efforts of those involved.

Frank Rowland - Antwort

I replaced the battery of my Mac successfully and everything is working as expected. The only issue I have, is that the outer segments of the new battery do not seem to hold on to the case. It seems as though the adhesive is not sticky enough. Before installing the new battery I made sure that the case was completely clean; all remnants of the old adhesive were removed.

Any tips on how to fix this? Just glue it in? If so, with which glue? Doublesided tape? There’s a bit too much free space inside the case, so if I move my laptop, I can hear the battery segments move inside the case…

Michiel Katgert - Antwort

My battery came with 86% charge but of course, condition as normal for full charge capacity and longevity. Cheers. Took me 26 minutes for entire job. I’ve done several of these though, prepare for an hour at least your first time and GO SLOW and double check everything as you go.

Faslane - Antwort

Hat alles perfekt geklappt, danke für die hervorragende Anleitung. Ich hatte den Kleber mi einem Föhn erwärmt das ging auch.

lothardietrich - Antwort

Klasse Anleitung, hat hervorragend funktioniert.

Habe das Gehäuse von Außen mit dem Fön erwärmt, 2 Minuten gewartet und dann den Akku herausgenommen.

Gruß Frank

Frank Düding - Antwort

One note for having a grand finale: turn the laptop around while reattaching the battery to its port in order to get a better view of how secure it is in place.

I completed all the final steps in reverse and closed my laptop up, only to power it on and see that it wasn’t recognizing the new battery (battery icon had an X through it). So I had to remove the bottom cover and again and make sure it was fastened. Turns out that I had only clicked it half into place. All is well now and I couldn’t be happier with the kit and guide! Thank you so much.

Genevieve Goebel - Antwort

Hallo,

nach dem Tausch lässt sich das MB nicht mehr starten.

Ein/Aus / P+R+alt+cmd

Also auch ein SMC Reset mit

Ctrl+alt+shift / Ein/Aus

helfen nicht weiter.

Hin und wieder zeigt der Bildschirm mal eine Batterie mit rotem Balken an, aber unregelmäßig.

Einbau hatte problemlos funktioniert.

Kennt jemand eine Lösung?

niklas - Antwort

hattest du eine Lösung finden können?

Zk_bln -

El extraño caso de un MacBook Pro 13” retina de 2015 cuya batería se hinchó de repente después de sólo 20 ciclos de uso.

Un aparato siempre conectado a la red y que siempre se usó como ordenador de escritorio.

Misteriosamente la batería marca 6957mAh de capacidad siendo su capacidad de diseño 6559mAh.

macOS Battery Status GOOD

Jorge Gil - Antwort

This was a straightforward repair thanks to the good instructions. This is my first battery swap in a MB Pro after 2 easy ones in MacBook Airs. The adhesive makes this one more complicated. Still took less than an hour, going slow and double checking everything as I went. 2 shortcuts I found: 1) No need to completely disconnect the right speaker. Work the cable loose along the edge of the battery, remove the screws and swing the speaker out of the way. 2) Only need to disconnect the logic board end of the trackpad cable. Another tip: make sure the outermost cells are positioned in such a way that the speakers drop in place. It’s easy to slightly misposition the cell and prevent the speaker(s) from seating properly. Overall, this is another quality repair kit from iFixit.

lmoyers50 - Antwort

I replaced my battery in an hour and 20 minutes, no issues following the very concise instructions. Excellent instructions and iFixit battery parts/tool kit. A picture of the Torx screws would make the assembly instructions infallible.

azimuthdave - Antwort

Extrem schnelle Lieferung, hervorragende Reparaturanleitung und klasse Werkzeug. Passt!! Nach sorgfältig durchgeführter Vorgehensweise, war “das Projekt” in gut zwei Stunden erledigt. Jetzt noch die Kalibrierung des Akkus ausführen. Danke dafür …

Micha Buchwald - Antwort

Very good instructions. Make sure you remember where the screws go because they are in different lengths. I wish I got the ihotopener because the adhesive was really hard to pull them off.

Susu Wong - Antwort

Thanks for the very helpful guide really made this repair easy and the adhesive remover made a world of a difference . I advise anyone about to do this repair to purchase the kit provided here it will be money well spent :)

Kyle Bradshaw - Antwort

Hello, I recently bought a battery to replace in my MacBook Pro 13” Early 2015. Upon plugging in and turning on, the device booted and I was in business…however, the next time I shutdown and tried to turn on the laptop, it wouldn’t. I would need to disconnect the connector of the battery to the logic board, wait a few seconds, reconnect the battery connector to the socket and my laptop would eventually turn back on.

I’ve tried the following as well: PRAM/SMC Reset and Calibrating Battery. In order to make a fair assessment that the battery was malfunctioning, I went ahead and left the battery connector unplugged and had the laptop on the MagSafe charger and it turned on seamlessly.

Is the “new battery” faulty? Should I replace any other component? Not related, but I had previously updated the SSD successfully with a new WD SSD/NVE PCIe adapter and got one” question mark folder” in the first day of installing it. It hasn’t happened since, so fingers crossed. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Cris A - Antwort

Hey, could u fix this problem?

Zk_bln -

Exactly same tging happen to my macbook after i replace battery. Any solutions?

nirmal2008 -

Great guide, works perfectly!

Sammy Valentino - Antwort

Hice todo el proceso, pero al encender la mac, no me reconoce la batería

Juan Martin - Antwort

Hi Juan, problem solved ?

Solucionado ?

Joel Marti -

Completed on my MBP, the original battery has had around 260 cycles now. Still love this little guy, so I’m glad I’m able to get the battery swapped and feels like new again! In the process also cleaned/re-applied the thermal paste on the CPU and swapped out the SSD!

Ming Lee - Antwort

Changed battery successfully but Upon plugging in and turning on, the device booted however, the next time I shutdown and tried to turn on the laptop, it wouldn’t. I would need to disconnect the connector of the battery to the logic board, wait a few seconds, reconnect the battery connector to the socket and plug charger and my laptop would eventually turn back on.

I’ve tried the following as well: PRAM/SMC Reset and Calibrating Battery. In order to make a fair assessment that the battery was malfunctioning, I went ahead and left the battery connector unplugged and had the laptop on the MagSafe charger and it turned on seamlessly.

Is the “new battery” faulty? Should I replace any other component?

nirmal2008 - Antwort

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