Einleitung
Anhand dieser Anleitung kannst du den eingeklebten Akku mithilfe eines iFixit Akku Kits sicher aus deinem MacBook Pro entfernen. Der Klebstoff-Entferner in deinem Kit löst den Kleber, der den Akku fixiert, und ermöglicht es dir so, ihn mühelos zu entfernen.
Der iFixit Klebstoffentferner ist leicht entzündlich. Führe diesen Austausch in einem gut belüfteten Bereich durch. Du solltest währenddessen nicht rauchen oder in der Nähe einer offenen Flamme arbeiten.
Um das Sicherheitsrisiko zu verkleinern, solltest du den Akku deines MacBook Pro vollständig entladen, bevor du mit der Reparatur beginnst. Ein geladener Lithium-Ionen-Akku kann ein gefährliches und unkontrollierbares Feuer verursachen, wenn er versehentlich beschädigt wird. Wenn dein Akku aufgebläht ist, dann musst du geeignete Vorsichtsmaßnahmen treffen.
Hinweis: Das Lösungsmittel, das zum Lösen des Akkuklebers verwendet wird, wird deine Lautsprecher beschädigen, wenn es mit deren Kunststoffgehäusen in Berührung kommt. In dieser Anleitung wird der Lautsprecher entfernt, bevor mit dem Akku weitergemacht wird.
Wenn du noch den veralteten iFixit Klebstoffentferner verwendet, bei dem die Flasche und die Spritze getrennt sind (wird nicht mehr verkauft), dann
klicke hier für eine leicht geänderte Version dieser Anleitung.
Was du brauchst
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Entferne die folgenden P5-Pentalobe-Schrauben, mit denen das Gehäuseunterteil am MacBook Pro befestigt ist:
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Acht 3,0 mm Schrauben
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Zwei 2,3 mm Schrauben
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Hebe das Gehäuseunterteil von der Kante aus, die der Kupplungsabdeckung am nächsten liegt, vom MacBook Pro ab.
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Lege das Gehäuseunterteil beiseite.
Does anyone noticed that the bottom cover and the bottom case is actually linked with the black plastic near the battery?! After the first time you open the cover, it will be impossible to put it back to the original place. Does the critical?! Thanks a lot for informing
I was able to simply push and click those clips back into place before I did the screwing.
Tim Peat -
I truly believe this is placebo and the 10*C difference is because in the process the dust was removed from the fan/heat sink rather then the thermal "magic" paste.
This is a "PC" habit.
On the other hand, all the cases and protections out there have a bad effect on cooling (not sleeves or pouches) because the whole aluminum body helps dissipate heat.
I've never had any problems with any mac regarding heat (they do get hot, but it is OK).
Whenever you feel heat from electronic device means the heat radiates away from it.. which means the cooling is doing a good job :).
Hey,
Writing about dust and dirt, do you know any cleaning products for the interior of the mac. i mean how do you clean your laptop, pc, etc..
Regards
This is untrue. Over time thermal paste will dry up and crack and not provide good coverage between the device and the cooler. The paste massively improves the thermal transfer between the chip and the heatsink. If you do not believe in the magic paste then you should wipe it all off and apply just a little bit or none at all and then compare temperatures. You will see the paste is responsible for a big reduction in temperature.
If you are following this how-to because liquid/coffee splashed in through the back vents, WAIT UNTIL THE END to clean any liquid spills on the bottom panel. Use them as your map for cleaning and QA guide for checking until you are finished with your cleanup of logic board and other items.
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Ziehe den Warnaufkleber über dem Akkuanschluss ab.
Have laptop charging issues after this. When fully charged and i plug in magsafe it starts with green, then turns red and stays red (like if it was charging). Status bar says NOT charging. If i use battery a little bit (down to 69%) magsafe does the same (green then stay red). Status bar says battery 69% NOT charging. and it seems to be true. Any suggestions?
Double check the connection from the battery to the logic board and the logic board socket itself... Might have damaged by disconnect/reconnect.
This step is necessary to prevent any discharging, arcing, friction/static charges from damaging any of the extremely delicate and intricate parts of this (or most any) electrical system. In practice, you should even be wearing an anti-static band or be working on an anti-static bench even with the battery disconnected so your body doesn't create any unintentional charges.
One of the first things you should learn in electronics repair and and electrical in general is to cut the power source whenever possible before performing any work. Some systems have schedulers/triggers set that will wake the system up (even when closed) to perform updates and other maintenance tasks as to not eat up CPU and RAM during 'peak hours'. The last thing you need is to have your $2,000 laptop turn on while pulling an SSD (which, correct me if wrong, isn't a plug-and-play based device) which could do some serious corruption and/or damage; when all you had to do was peel a sticker and plug.
Hope that helps!!
~the more you know~
I did not peel back the sticker. It is probably there to help unplug the battery. You can apply a gentle constant pull while you use spudger to lift the battery connector out of the socket as per the next step. It made this very easy.
I've found that it's actually better to NOT remove the sticker. I wish I had skipped that 'peel off the sticker part' ugh
Let me stop you guys here. You can skip steps 5-35.
That’s what I did without a problem.
Go directly to step 35 after the next step. 5-35 is only so you have more room to pry the old battery off.
If you are not keeping the old battery, then just pry it off with a flathead screwdriver.
This is not a difficult fix.
Chris,
Thank you for providing the advise to skip several steps. I agree that you will have ample space to remove the old battery without removing everything else. I would like to provide a small correction in your directions. You will need to go to step 34 to remove the two screws holding the battery cable versus directly to step 35. You will not be able to completely remove the battery without this step.
I successfully followed all the instructions and all the steps in this guide. I installed the new battery successfully. However, looking back at the process now, I have no idea why I had to take out the memory, air card, speakers, fans, and motherboard to change the battery. None of that was necessary. I did it, and it worked out for me, but honestly, if you just want the battery out, do what Chris and Laurence said above me. Go straight to step 34.
Again, that label will loose its stickyness... order B09WMWH3LM from Amazon so you can reglue - a little smear on both parts, let it dry a few seconds and join them. Done. ... a little will go a long way.
I agree that this entire procedure is unnecessarily complex, unless you’d like to disassemble your entire laptop for the sheer fun of it. The point of all the disassembly is to avoid damage to other components from the adhesive remover. So what I did was not to pry at all, no leverage whatsoever, no strain on the battery cells. Instead, I simply slid the provided plastic scraper cards underneath the batteries from every side possible to begin removing the adhesive. Then I put one drop of the remover on each side of the card at the front edge so it was barely wet, slid it in and worked it deeper bit by bit…. When I got near the speakers, I pulled the screws, lifted them slightly, and wedged one of the picks under the long arm coming off each speaker to give it a few mm clearance from the case, so no remover/alcohol could wick underneath. That worked well for me; the hardest part was getting all the old adhesive off the case, which just took some careful soaking. Good luck! .
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Heble den Akkuanschluss mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers vorsichtig aus seiner Buchse auf dem Logic Board heraus.
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Biege die Akkukabel nach hinten und aus dem Weg, so dass der Akkuanschluss nicht versehentlich mit dem Logic Board in Kontakt kommt.
I ordered the whole kit, but seeing how much tedious effort it was to take out so many parts so they wouldn't be damaged by the solvent, I skipped from here to step 34 and only used the supplied cards (credit-card sized) with patience and persistence to free the battery sections from the backing. Success! Then I used a q-tip to apply the solvent to remove the remnants of the adhesive from the aluminum case. My battery was very swollen, so it was like removing little pillows. I think the swelling may have helped to give me additional access with the cards to free it. Success! My MBP is back up and running, and now the trackpad clicks again and it sits flat on a table!
So no need basically to unscrew all the mac
Bert0ld0 -
The best tool for battery removal for any glued in Apple batteries is a 6" PLASTIC puddy knife 1.5" or 1" in width. It is strong. It has a bit of a sharp edge to cut the glue. It is long enough to slide all the way from top to bottom on the middle cells and from the side to get the 2nd from the right and 2nd from the left out. Wear gloves doing this and eye protection. I've use the Nylon twine method also without removing the logic board, but that is a pain to get started. I just take the screws of of the speaker, lift them up, don't remove and go to work with the puddy knife.
Joel - the purpose of all of the trouble in removing the logic board is to make sure that you don’t damage anything when you start pull out the battery. After this step - it’s true, you have about 12 connectors and dozens of screws to unplug, but I didn’t have any major problems.
REASSEMBLY - I had to use alot of force to get the official IFIXIT battery connect to push into place to actually connect. I was worried that one of the wires would stress and break. It worked, but it was not super easy this part.
I also skipped down to step 50. I stuck a piece of 1/2 inch weather stripping across the middle of the top cover of the laptop to maintain a pitch on the unit so the adhesive remover stayed away from the other components. I applied the remover and used a piece of string to cut through the adhesive strips. I owed the plastic tool from the kit to position the string behind the top of each cell and cut through one ata a time. The battery came out in about 15 minutes. The directions were very informative and useful but I thought the risks associated with dismantling the laptop and reassembling it again were greater. I could not have done it without the details presented. Thank you.
Couldn't agree more: use a wire to cut the glue. No need to remove anything else (I did remove the SSD for peace of mind). I used a thin metal wire, without the help of adhesive remover, wrapping it around two sticks to hold it (as pulling with your fingers is painful!). Took longer to clean the residue than to cut the glue!
I'm not so mad with Apple's repairability considering that this method is viable.
Having broken a connector on a logic board in the past, I worried about all the steps. But I understand the disaster that can occur if cleaning fluid contacts the logic board. Weighing costs and benefits, I also did not remove the logic board. I loosened up the speakers (since only two screws could be removed) to give me space to slide the cards under the battery cells. Using the two cards, sometimes sliding one over the other, I was able to remove the battery in 15- 20 minutes. Removing the remaining adhesive was VERY tedious. Eventually I settled on CAREFULLY applying small amounts of remover with the syringe and using the spudger (both pointy and broad ends) to scrape the remainders off. I cleaned the residual with Q-tips dipped in remover (buy a big box of Q-tips), refastened the speakers, installed the new battery, closed the case and voila.
I too found the need to completely teardown the laptop onerous and risky. I’m not certified in anything hardware but I’ve been doing my own repairs for a while. I watched the video referenced above and read the comments there. With some changes, here is what I did, which worked perfectly and minimized the risk, for a whole additional $3 in parts, just myself and in under an hour:
1. Go to hardware store and get 2 4” bolts ($1 each) and a coil of 20 gauage galvanized wire.
2. Wrap one end of the wire a few times around one bolt, then tie it off with a knot. Do the same with the other bolt, leaving about 10” of wire between the two.
3. Follow steps 1-4 in this guide
4. Slip the wire under one of the outer batteries (use a card or spudger to help get the wire underneath
5. Grip both bolts with one hand and rock them back and forth, pulling the wire under the battery, using your other hand to hold the case. This should take about 2 seconds (seriously). Repeat for other outer batteries
(continued)
6. Pull the plastic frames away from the left and right sides of the center batteries.
7. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for the two center batteries.
8. Jump to step 55, then reassemble.
Note: when installing the new battery, ensure the part closest to you is UNDER the two plastic tabs.
Worked perfectly.
Link to video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fupkPz55...
Note: using the nylon thread with that much effort is crazy. Use the wire or fishing line.
cool.
removed everything and have now 88% after 2 times calibrating and smc reset
wouldn’t have liked to do everything again, but this seems like a possible solution :)
i just got my Kit and started the procedure, i decided to try if i can get the bulged batteries out with a fishing line, which worked fine. No need to use any solvent and even not too much force was needed to get the line under the batteries. I was able to remove the batteries in about 5min, used another 10min to clean the case from the residue, and put in the new battery. All togehter about 20min of work. I´m very happy with the result, Macbook stays now back on its feet, closes correctly and trackpad works as expected.
Also departed from procedure immediately after STEP # 4 as per JOEL’s recommendation …used a small chunk of fishing line and it worked sans solvent…easily ! Spudger worked quite well to initially position the string /line & the ifixit ( ‘credit’ ) cards were nice for final dislodging of each battery segment from the last bits of residual gooey adhesive , AFTER working the fishing line back & forth down the length of the battery as much as possible. With the old battery out of the way, I used a razor blade to clean out the remaining bits of adhesive gunk. ( Decided NOT to use solvent here, either.) Took me every bit of 1-hour.
One thing that helped ,too, was a cheap pair of cotton gloves coated on the palm side w/ latex. This kept my fingers comfortable from the pressure of the fishing line & allowed more of a range of force …since I wasn’t wincing from saw-cutting myself !
I skipped steps from 5 to 33 and directlychanged the battery (before disassembling all). Worked fine.
I also skipped all the additional disassembly. I used cards and wire to cut through the adhesive quite easily. I also did not apply any tape on the new battery. The Mid-2014 laptop seems slim and tight enough to keep the cells from moving and the two screws at the power connector area seem to stabilize the connection and battery as a whole. Such STRONG tape seems unwarranted for the amount of squirm room in such a tight compartment.
P.S. Remember, while you have it open, clean, clean, clean!!!
Speaking of the power connector screws, I accidentally screwed down the R speaker flat cable on reassembly, which caused the speaker to malfunction. On finding that, I re-routed slightly and the speaker worked fine, this time, but I recommend being extra careful with that cable when putting things back together. You really do have to remove most everything to replace speakers!
Thanks guys for all the tips. I followed the pragmatic way of cutting short and really taking battery out only. Thanks to the cards it worked well and none of the liquid made it to any other part of the computer. Put some efforts in to properly clean the remaining glue after battery was out - but looked good and this message comes from the old mid 2012 15” Retina modell - but with the new battery in - and all is fine. I am happy - thanks to the short cut encouragement.
Also skipped steps from 5 to 32. I used the supplied cards and a piece of string, i.e. braided nylon twine, (thickness 24). and used supplied acetone sparingly, mostly to the middle section. It took one and a half hours and another half hour or so for removing the leftover goo. It was demanding but not challenging, just take it slow and steady.
Learnt a lot from former comments. Also skipped steps from 5 to 54. Used fishing line to cut through adjective by myself easily, but needed to put on glove to protect hands. I didnt order full package, so used nail polish remover and eraser to clean the base. Looks good and all is fine! Thanks to the short cut method!
If you decide to skip to Step 34 or 52 or whatever, at least take note of Step 50. This is the only place I saw reference to the thin metal plate protecting the trackpad. I also skipped to just pulling out the batteries, but this plate came out with the them. I had to carefully pry it off the old batteries, reinstall it, and clean the adhesive residue off it.
Also, YMMV, but I did not bother with delicately removing the old batteries with fishing line, loosening with solvent, or whatever. They’re going in the trash (ahem, recycling) anyway, so I pried them out with a screwdriver, using the neighboring cell as a fulcrum. 98% of the adhesive remained with the batteries, leaving very little residue in the case.
I also forwent the many steps to protect components from the isopropyl alcohol. Blocking the back of the computer up an inch or so meant that any spill would run down and away from the logic board, which actually helped loosen the adhesive. I felt that disconnecting so many parts was a greater risk with no real benefit so long as care was employed in the use of the alcohol. Using some twine in a sawing motion behind each battery got through the adhesive without trauma. The entire repair was actually very simple and fast. The toolkit is excellent and well worth buying from iFixit. The machine is now working really well again. Worth fitting a new SSD now.
Success! I ordered the whole kit and thought I would do all these steps below. But instead I just unplugged the battery and skipped all the steps up to step 36. For getting loose the old glued in battery I used waxed dental floss, it is strong and easily available. I strung it around two wood pieces and wired it around the underside of the batteries, then slowly pulled it downwards till the end. This worked quite well and after 10 minutes all the 6 batteries were free. Now the ‘fun’ part, cleaning up the old adhesive strips. I used the little bottle of alcohol from the kit but found this not the best cleaning solution. Be warned, dont forget that in this position, directly under your downpressing fingers there is the glass trackpad and the display!! I really was scared to break them during this cleaning process. Because of this I switched to LIGHTER FLUID , which is stronger and the process quickly proceeded. Thanks ifixit for your great support.
I had to replace my replacement battery ... luckily the ifixit adhesive isnt that overpowered ... ehem ... I just pulled the old one out softly ... used the plastic card, some force ... and build the hopefully-this-time-lasting-longer-than-4-month-new-battery in ... it saved my evening.
I just finished doing my second battery replacement on one of these. If you're replacing a battery that came from iFixit you can skip straight to step 34 and use cards/spudgers/guitar picks to remove the batteries. The adhesive on the iFixit batteries isn't nearly as tenacious as the original Apple adhesive (though it's plenty to keep the battery stable) and it was easy to pop the battery segments out with a spudger and peel up most of the excess adhesive strips. What little was left came off easily by putting small amounts of the solvent on paper towel and rubbing - no need to pour any amount of solvent into the case.
When it's time to install the new battery, bend the wires a little more to make a "U" shaped down curve...
The acetone bottle shown runs the risk of dispensing a lot of solvent - which may well damage the speaker plastic. I used a 5 ml plastic pipette to deliver small controlled amounts and had no problems removing the battery without having to take everything else out :-) I also used propanol (isopropyl alcohol) on some kitchen towel to remove the adhesive residue from the case - slightly less effective than acetone, but doesn't dissolve the plastic :-)
I used a guitar string ( high e 9 gauge) and a pair of thin leather gloves (to protect hands ) and after using tweezers to get it behind the batteries I was able to pull thru/ cut thru the adhesive with relative ease .
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In diesem Schritt verwendetes Werkzeug:Tweezers$4.99
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Mit einem Spudger oder einer Pinzette kannst du die drei AirPort-Antennenkabel senkrecht aus ihren Buchsen auf dem AirPort-Board herausziehen.
will this procedure remove my warranty? I have applecare for another 2 years, Laptop was dropped on the side, there is a very small dent on the side of I/O.
Yes, this voids your warranty.
These are notoriously difficult to remove. I actually damaged 2/3 of the connector pins during the process. Thankfully i was still able to fit them in place. This step should not be underestimated.
If you are not replacing the display case assembly, you can opt to leave all 3 connectors attached and remove the Airport card with them connected. You will need to carefully manage the card and attached cables so as not to damage them(masking tape) as you proceed with disassembly/reassembly. Step 6 will need to be done carefully (camera cable connector). I did it after step 8. I took a picture of routed cables as well before I removed them from channel.
unless you have really tiny fingers, a tweezer helps, just be careful not to damage the wires or the board as your holding each cable in place. Oh and take your time - this is like the most frustrating step in the process, imo.
Definitely the hardest step (when putting it back together). The three pins were on progressively longer plugs, so I put the shortest one on the left and so on. This helps with getting the right angle. I used my fingers and the spudger to guide them back in. It took me easily 10-15 minutes to do this. The pattern that worked eventually was to first adjust the angle of the pin head so that it's x/y/z axes would line up perfectly with the connection if you are able to bring it together just so. If you're off on any of these while you try to bring it together, you won't be able to just click it down at the end. Good luck!
Agreed, for some reason, the middle one was stubborn — and I was worried the amount of force I applied to push it back on was going to break something - but it did pop back on.
Jer -
I would never remove those tiny plugs unless I absolutely have to. And we do not have to remove them, just the card itself…
Jurgen -
I looked at these plugs under a 8X lupe, since my 56-year-old eyes are not what they used to be. They are circular, so it’s more a question of just aligning the bottom with the top of the plug rather than angle. If I can do it, someone with better eyes can definitely do it.
Removing these 3 tiny cables is completely unnecessary. I removed my fan last week to clean and it slips by these cables. For some dumb reason i wanted to follow this "correct" procedure and now one of the gold connections detached from the wire like it was nothing. Seriously, dont do this. I used a spunger and was very delicate putting it back on... And look what happened. SKIP!
Yeah, I agree, just leave the airport card attached to the pins and remove the card itself. Then you won’t have to fuss with these connectors.
Jer -
@tmm Your right on! Just finished replacing my right fan and your tip saved me from messing with these tiny cables. I totally understand your frustration as I was too just about to stick to the procedure, but if it’s any comfort your tip helped someone… so don’t be surprised being rewarded by some good karma :)
IT’S UNNECESSARY TO DETACH THE 3 TINY CABLES FROM THE CARD, JUST DETACH THE AIRPORT CARD WITH IT’S CABLES ATTACHED BY GRABING IT FROM BOTH SIDES USING TWO FINGERS AND GENTLY SHAKE IT UNTIL IT DETACHES. THEN MOVE THE WHOLE THING A BIT ASIDE.
THIS STEP IS ONLY NECESSARY TO MAKE WAY TO THE FAN CONNECTOR UNDERNEATH.
There is one thing though I find missing which concerns:
1)The rubber heat sink cover
2 The AirPort/Camera cables
3)The IO board cable
All these are “glued” to the fan and you need to peel them off gently using the spudger, now while I noticed that some glue remains on each cable so they will kinda stick again, I wonder what kind of glue is this and where one can buy it?
Itai -
These individual instructions are re-used across multiple tutorials. If you are replacing the battery, you probably won’t need to remove the three connections from the Airport card; if you are replacing the display, you definitely need to replace them, because they are connected to the display. I just replaced the battery and the display in a single activity, so I pretty much had to remove everything. Also agree with a previous commentor that it’s easier to reconnect the cables before the card is reconnected to the system board.
ChrisMBP -
travismlive is right, you do not need to remove these cables or the airport card. Just remove the I/O board cable, undo the screws, and detach the antenna cables from the fan where they are glued with a spudger. Unlock the ZIF-socket and the you can wriggle the fan out. Probably saved my airport card, thanks travismlive!
I only successfully reattached 1 of the 3 AirPort cables, I just taped the other two. But the AirPort seems to work fine. Do these also have anything to do with Bluetooth though? I do seem to have trouble with Bluetooth after this operation. In any case, it was worth it... I replaced the screen with a new Apple screen for less than 1/2 the Apple Store wanted! Thanks!
Would soldering them back in place be better than taping? I certainly don't want spare solder on my motherboard, so I figure that'd be a last resort only if I lose AirPort connectivity.
Assembly is a nightmare. If rightmost cable is not connected, BT will not work.
the hardest step is reconnecting the airport antenna cables. just have patience< and use tweezers, spluger and a q-tip.
tweezers to hold the cable and the flat part of the spudger to push down on the connectors is the easiest way to re-assemble
Replacing these were the most difficult step I encountered. I finally determined that it took slight back and forth twisting of the cable (from left to right as viewed from above) to cause the connector on the cable to twist into position so it could be pressed down.
I read your step and you are 100% correct. This helped me tremendously. Thanks!
Achilles -
Several of the people above mentioned not disconnecting these three wires. You must remove and replace these if you are replacing the entire display which is what these instructions are about. This is the most difficult step as others have noted. Just be careful and make sure you have the cable level before you start pushing down.
If you are not replacing the display case assembly, you can opt to leave all 3 connectors attached and remove the Airport card with them connected. You will need to carefully manage the card and attached cables so as not to damage them(masking tape) as you proceed with disassembly/reassembly. Step 6 will need to be done carefully (camera cable connector). I did it after step 8. I took a picture of routed cables as well before I removed them from channel.
Reassembling: What makes this so hard? From all appearances I’m just pressing a squat sleeve-and-pin connector down onto the female counterpart. It appears to be circular and therefore not needing to be oriented radially in any particular angle. It doesn’t look hard at all! Does anyone understand what the subtlety is that causes everyone so much grief?
Reassembling: as so many as commented, this is incredibly hard - and inexplicably so. From all appearances I’m just pressing a squat sleeve-and-pin connector down onto the female counterpart. It doesn’t look hard at all! But I couldn’t do it.
Here’s what seems to have worked for me: with my left fingertip on the cable holding the connector directly above the female, I used the spudger to press down the flat back of the connector, initially at the top and then sliding along toward the neck. I used normal pressure, and voila, when I lifted the spudger away the wretched wire didn’t spring up again. It was like it wanted to be rocked, or stroked, once, from top to neck, rather than pressed straight down.
I skipped to step 34. Just pushed up the speakers so that they don’t touch the body.
Can anyone help me? I would like to replace my speakers. Which steps can i skip?
I have completed replacing my speakers and this step was not needed at all.
I just completed the full screen assembly replacement with 90% success I guess. Like many others noted, this was the hardest step, and one them (leftmost) was extra hard, but I eventually got them all back in. However, I don’t have 5G wifi anymore. 2.4 g works fine, bluetooth works fine, and the screen, camera, and mic are all perfectly functioning. I just can’t connect to 5G wifi. Is there a fix for this?
Absolutely no need to take apart the whole thing, get some strong fishing line and slowly saw the adhesive away. Once the battery is out, (if you are prone to be clumsy just cover/ shield the rest of the computer, than use GOO GONE or the like waiting a couple minutes to scrape out the old adhesive. The only reason they make your take everything out is that they assume you are lazy and will be using the adhesive remover which could damage the rest of the computer if allowed to splatter etc. Just save your self some time and stress, get strong braided fishing line ( works way better than floss or string as it is of a smaller diameter and isn’t smooth and helps the sawing action), and work your way around each cell. This is still way shorter than removing the entire computer and much less likely hood of damaging sensitive connectors.
Agreed! Especially if you replace the batttery a second time with a less Apple-like adhesive.
To prepare for a third time I actually covered parts of the adhesive pads with plastic film on the new battery. I figured that gluing it to the base where it is actually hooked behind the frame makes little sense.
Cheers to everyone repairing good old things and keeping them alive!
Jörg -
I did a screen replacement recently using this guide and the disassembly/assembly was fine - very good instructions. But when I turned on the machine there was a very fine flickering, snow-like interference, especially noticeable on black backgrounds. I assumed it was a faulty replacement screen and continued to use it. Recently, I had to change out the battery so I dissasembled the screen again to see if reconnecting it would fix the problem. Now it is perfect. I think the problem was that the left-most (shortest) airport cable connector was touching the black screw next to it on the board and shorting out. Be careful to position this connector well away from that screw.
I read the note above and managed to fold the card out of the way. I’d put it in a paper envelope to stop it touching anything as it flaps around. The bag also stops static build up and reminds you it’s there ! The wires on mine were held down with two strips of tape, the pointed spudger? pushed along the length of the wires widened the tape loop when I pushed firmly but carefully. Once widened, tweezers can open it fully .
I skipped the step of removing the airport antenna cables and removed the airport card with the cables since so many users said it was extremely hard to get the airport cables back on properly. By skipping the airport cable removal I save a lot of potential headaches and performing this task was not any more difficult to do.
I skipped steps 5 - 40 and removed the old battery with the plastic card and a palette-knife after heating the adhesive strips cautiously with a hair dryer. After that removing the adhesive strips with the solvent was by far the most time consuming part.
so what happens if you damage 1 of the 3 connectors because you didn’t read all the comments first? Does it work at all or just diminished wifi reception?
Can someone at ifixit update the main instruction page to advise removing the airport card instead of the super fragile cables?
YOU DONT NEED ANY OF THIS!
it is SO stupidly risky to remove all this. Who the HECK wrote this guide?!? Thank God I checked on youtube and found guys who did NOTHING of these steps and simply removed the battery in under 1 h.
Steps 5-33 are not really needed if you are careful with the speakers, not to spill the fluid onto them. It saves a lot of time and potential dangerous operations. I did it without any problem.
Please be extremely careful, I just ripped out one of the sockets for the cables. I fixed it with Tesa until I can buy a new Airport-Card.
BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL WITH THIS STEP both when disconnecting the cable connection points and while doing the reconnection. I damaged the J2 connector (Wi-Fi and Bluetooth are working just fine, though) while trying to reconnect it to the AirPort card. I’ll suggest, as others have here as well, to not disconnect the cables and just have them connected to the card the entire time as this is, IMHO, a completely unnecessary step to take while doing this whole procedure.
Well, this is the step that (just through reading these comments) I decided NOT to fix my right speaker. Anytime I have to remove these delicate Airport and Camera wires and connections, I get very nervous. (I've done it before, successfully, on a MacMini [ugh; never again!] - just to replace the two slow HD with SSDs! What a hassle!
I'll just my headphones or computer speakers through the headphone jack.
Why this step of unplug the AirPort/Camera Cable
Surtout ne pas démonter les 3 connecteurs. Extraire la nappe camera/wifi sans enlever le 3 connecteurs. Les 3 connecteurs sont fragiles et très difficile à remettre. Dans mon cas, 2/3 des connexions sur la nappe sont HS.
This is the point where you should say "No freaking way" and go watch this youtube video and save yourself a nightmare: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rfHHIERH...
There is absolutely no need for this repair to be this insanely convoluted.
In all honestly, if you are careful and don't rush the removal of the battery, you can skip removing the logic board and all the accessories and go straight to step 36. Just be super careful when prying around the battery above the mouse controller board (you still need to remove the ribbon cable). Its very easy to slip and knock components off of this board.
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Schiebe den Stecker des Kamerakabels mit der Spudgerspitze aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board in Richtung des Lüfters.
Same for me too just take the socket from your broken screen and cut it off and solder it onto the new screen. It was really hard because it's so small but I did it.
Hi! Camera flex cable is from MBP Retina Mid 2012 & Early 2013. Not Late 2013 :) Edit it please.
the tip of the middle 3 wire was broken on the replacement screen. I didn't connect it and everything seems to work fine, mac hardware test says everything is fine... Is it possible?
Yes. They are wifi antenna cables. Missing one antenna won't affect much, and won't show up in any hardware test.
Push on the little wings, from right to left.
This is the hardest part of disassembly! Arguable hardest part of re-assembly too, other than the airport cables
This came off for me - now my computer’s fan is running high constantly, and “Kernel_task” is using 500% of the CPU even though nothing else is running - what can I do?
Did you ever get the fan to stop? how?
It is very important to note here that you are NOT pushing up. You are pulling the cable back toward the fan. Doing step 7 first makes that easier. I misunderstood the instruction here (as others seem to have as well) and broke this part. I’m fine with not having a camera on this computer so I’ll leave it or ask my son to help me solder it later.
can you give guidance on the soldering? Im new to it and dont want to burn anything / especially the wrong thing!
The wing closed to the edge of the chassis is completely stuck. I’ve worked on it for an hour. The other wing moves freely. I’m not sure what to do now.
The connector is very tight - I couldn’t even see the join between cable end and the socket and couldn’t see the “ears” on the end of the socket. And, of course, pulling didn’t help. I eventually used tweezers to start things off, gripping on the metal of the socket right where the invisible join was. What a delight to have the join open enough to see! After that, it was easy.
Thank You Jerryl - The tweezers did the trick. They want to pop out so you can use your other hand to apply slight downward pressure to keep them in place. Work both ends of the tweezers gently back and forth and you should start to see the gap get bigger.
I used tweezers and the spudger. Take the point of the spudger and push on one side of the “dog ear” while supporting the other side with the closed tweezers on the cable side of the dog ear. (Could use a second spudger) work one side the move to the other repeatedly until the connection disconnects.
This is allows You to push and support simultaneously and minimize the chance damaging the connector.
Removed cover (Step 7). Released adhesive. Pulled directly out of socket to the left.
Pushing out of this connector is ill advised, as no mechanical ledge to push.
I found this step to be difficult due to the picture and instructions being incorrect for MacBook Late 2013. Unfortunately, I damaged the pins during this step and my camera no longer works. :^( Please update this step.
@xtstoll I looked at two separate Late 2013 units today, and both are indistinguishable from what’s shown in the instructions. Are you sure you’re working on the right model? A photo of what this cable looks like on your laptop would be helpful.
Tweezers saved me on this one! Take your time and keep trying (gently) if you're still struggling
I have jewellers glasses and they were so helpful. Without them I would have broken plenty of bits. I really recommend getting some magnification for this job, some of the bits are sooooo small!
The way I did it took less than a minute. Ensure the AirPort card is not in place on the board. Get a pair of tweezers to squeeze the ends of the cables into each holder on the card. Apply pressure on the back of the card and the cable end at the same time. If it works, the cables will swivel easily in their slots. Then put the AirPort cable into the board.
I did it in less than a minute. Used a pair of tweezers. First thing is to take out the AirPort card from the slot. Hold it in one hand while using the tweezers to squeeze each of the cable ends into their sockets. Ensure that you are squeezing the back of the card at the same time as you are clipping in the cable ends. You will see that each cable end will swivel around and not come out of their sockets.
As per other comments, recommend referring to steps 7 and 10 before attempting step 6.
I found it helpful to remove the airport card first, then use tweezers to gently pull cable 0.5 m from socket, then use pointy end of "spudger" to push connector out of socket.This is the point where you should say "No freaking way" and go watch this youtube video and save yourself a nightmare: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rfHHIERH...
There is absolutely no need for this repair to be this insanely convoluted.
I got to this point on the reassembly only to realise that i was missing the camera cable! Trapped under the motherboard. Decided i dont need the camera that much to warrant reversing everything again
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Stecke das flache Ende eines Spudgers unter die Gummiummantelung des Kühlkörpers des rechten Lüfters.
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Fahre mit dem Spudger unter der gesamten Länge der Ummantelung entlang, um den Kleber zu lösen.
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Hebe die Ummantelung an und klappe sie zurück, so dass du an die Kabel darunter herankommst.
True @cahcadden.
Worst case you could accidentally tear it off
(thank god, that didn’t happen to me, but belive me —> it was a close call)
The glue will be gone, don't fret about it. You can just let it flap back when you are done, you can order this item from Amazon: B09WMWH3LM - contact shoes glue.. A little smear on both parts goes a long way. In my case I already had the stuff from other things I fixed for my wife.
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Ziehe die AirPort / Kamera Kabel mit den Fingern nach oben vom Lüfter ab.
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Fädle die Kabel vorsichtig aus ihrer Kunststoffführung.
It's a bit tricky to re-route the cables when you're installing the new display, so pay close attention to how they're originally routed, to make sure you don't pinch them or torque them.
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Wenn die Stecker am Kabel zum I/O-Board auf der Oberseite Einbuchtungen haben, dann müssen zuerst Verriegelungen unter der Einbuchtung gelöst werden, bevor das Kabel abgetrennt werden kann. In diesem Fall darfst du den Stecker erst dann hochhebeln, wenn der Verriegelungshebel offen ist.
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Heble den Stecker des I/O-Boards mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers aus seiner Buchse auf dem Logic Board heraus.
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Entferne auf die gleiche Weise den I/O-Board-Kabelstecker aus seinem Anschluss auf dem I/O-Board.
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Entferne das I/O-Board Kabel vom MacBook Pro.
When reinstalling the io board cable make sure it is the correct way round as in the photo, it fits the wrong way round as well, which results in the MacBook not starting at all.
ABSOLUTELY ! I found out the hard way. I took a break, came back to me dead computer and wondered - if - this cable would fit the other way round - and voila ! I wish I had read this note first :-)
i did exactly the same mistake! Same procedure as well: keep calm, and start again the tutorial.
every thing work find now
Guigui -
Sockets are ZIF with releasing levers on the top. If you pull up on the top padding, you will reveal silver lever handels facing the rear of the machine. Pry up on the LEVER to release the pressure, then pull the lever straight up to release the connector from the socket. DO NOT pry under the edge of the connector to remove these or you may damage the ZIF socket. They may have changed these connectors between models, otherwise I don’t know how this was overlooked in the guide.
Confirming, these are indeed zifs for me too. My padding has notches indicating location of lever needing to be raised. Obviously lever is tiny, look closely. If your padding is a clean rectangle as shown in guide, you may not have zif sockets here
Confirmed; if the foam pieces are not perfectly rectangular, you should be able to pry back the side of the foam with the cut-away. It folds in half. You can see the lever under the foam. Lift the handle with the spudger, then when it’s pointing straight up (it flips up), you can lift up on the lever (straight up). This should be done for both ends.
Patryk -
Confirmed. These instructions (and photos) should definitely be added to the guide!
While putting back the I/O cable, I assumed that it just connects back in place with pressure, kind of like Velcro. I just pushed the one on the left down first as instructed, and, while doing so, folded down the tiny wire lever under the padding (As someone stated earlier, the wire lever isn’t on all models) along with it. It seem to go back in place fairly easily if you’re careful to align the two sides (the part under the cable with the part on the logic board). A a novice, I think this warrants being addressed in more detail. Kinda had to do this intuitively.
There is adhesive under the cable. I twisted the cable parallel to the flat fan surface to break it without bending the cable.
Yeah, and a strong adhesive.
throughout all the repairs i have on my MacBook, I have put changing the right fam on the side, just because I was thinking there will be no way of removing the cable without damaging it.
I hope I didn't mess up (I'm still dismantling my MBP) but I didn't detach the cable from the fan housing. Disconnected from both ends, and it appeared contented to flop there in space. Fan was then removed without incident
you need to lift one side of the rubber/foam cover to reveal the lock
I'm having a problem reconnecting the I/O board cable. My version has the locking levers. I was able to connect the end on the logic board, and lock the lever in place. I attached the other end to the I/O board, but the locking lever won't stay down. I applied a good amount of pressure, but the lever keeps bouncing back up. I'm worried that I broke it at some point.
Any advice? Should I just close it up without locking the lever?
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Entferne die einzelne 2,9 mm T5 Torx Schraube, mit der die AirPort Karte am Logic Board befestigt ist.
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Fasse die Airport-Karte an den Seiten an und hebe sie leicht schräg (in einem Winkel von etwa 5 - 10°) hoch. Sie löst sich so aus der schwachen Klebeverbindung zum Logic Board.
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Ziehe die Airport-Karte parallel aus ihrem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board heraus und entferne sie.
There might be a touch of adhesive, lift first – a gentle touch with the spudger helps.
Yes. Slight lift to release adhesive and then pull out.
I don't see why this is necessary just to remove the logic board...
I found it helpful to use the flat end of a "spudger" to gently lift airport card from the main board prior to unplugging.
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Klappe den Sicherungsbügel am rechten ZIF-Anschluss des Ventilator-Flachbandkabels mit der Spitze eines Spudgers nach oben.
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Platziere ein Plastiköffnungswerkzeug ganz oben unter das rechte Lüfterkabel und schiebe es dann nach unten, um das Kabel vom Logic Board zu lösen.
I was able to flip the retaining flap while removing the damaged fan but accidentally dislodged after installing the replacement fan. Again, be very careful at this stage. Thankfully my new fan appears to function normally.
My retaining flap just came off. Can you confirm your fan doesn't need it to function??
ZIF = Ziero Insertion Force. Once the tiny retaining flap is up, it should slide out easily toward the back. There was no adhesive on my machine, so the cable slid out easily. But be careful if yours is glued down.
The pictures were confusing to me so let me add some more context. There is a ZIF socket (Zero insertion force) being addressed in the first picture. This socket has a black top that is currently closed down on the socket. Using your tool you need to lift this flap up to release the wire underneath (This release happens in the second step). Hence only pull up on the black flap enough to make it go from horizontal to vertical (Swing flap). Neither picture shows it in the up position. Step 2, Picture 2, Then gliding your flat spudger, you goal is to lift the wire that was in the ZIF socket out by lightly lifting up on both the wire and the rubber cushion on top of it. Make sure you lift both. You are successful when both are lifted up and out and facing vertical instead of horizontal.
Great clarification, thank you.
To really see which part of the ZIF socket has to be lifted up you should compare the pictures of step 10 and of step 12, preferably in its original size.
Then you can see that the inner part of the ZIF has to be moved up, away from the batteries.
I managed to broke the side, thought this was pulling on sides mechanism to release, not just upwards. Luckily I managed to attach it and the fan is working.
Here is video how to open the ZIF socket. https://youtu.be/MQbqpWkCz94?t=360
Many thanks Ketut, that vid clip really helped!
very appreciated!
Thank you… that vid is crisp!
Incredibly poor instructions!!! Thanks to the incorrect wording, I have just ruined the fan connector. There is NO lever. The cable gently slid out, after I borked it. I’m done with IFIXIT and the $@$*!& information. How about a little video clip inserted here. You guys can do better!
Can anyone share how to put the retaining flap back onto the connector? Has anyone’s fan worked without it? My hinged retaining flap just slid off and it's extremely difficult to place it back on.
I found it easier to slide the flat end of the spudger tool in from the left side of the cable, near the 90 degree bend.
There’s no need to take off all this stuff. I’ve just disconnected the battery, used the glue remover and a dental floss to pull off the battery ✌?
These instructions are pretty lacking for this step. In my case, for both the left and right fans, I did not need to flip up a retaining flap. I did not need to remove the airport card as I could sneak the ribbon cable out from underneath the airport card. There was a tiny bit of adhesive on the ribbon cable. Once that was worked free, I could slide the ribbon cable out of the connector (toward the screen hinge).
I can recommend, after lifting ZIF clip, gently slide cable out of socket using "spudger" and/or need nose pliers.
Took me step 28 to figure out the latch. its the rear of the connector
You do have to zoom in, but 8:10 into this video shows how to do this step well:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TpamcnXN... -
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Entferne die folgenden drei Schrauben, mit denen der rechte Lüfter am Logic Board befestigt ist:
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Eine 4,4 mm T5 Torx Schraube
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Eine 3,9 mm T5 Torx Breitkopfschraube
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Eine 5,0 mm T5 Torx Schraube mit 2 mm Zapfen
What I did to separate the different screws, is to take the top of the ifixit essentials-kit (which has lots of small spaces to hold screws) and picked a row of these spaces, which I marked for the cooling-fan screws. So basically I just sort them by lenth: The 5 mm on the top space, underneath it the 4,4mm, and at last the 3,9mm. That way I didn’t loose track, because I was working in tandem with this instruction.
In my case, the 3.9mm screw was connected to a spacer that sat flush to the motherboard. I misplaced this spacer and had to take the computer apart twice to find it… Make sure not to lose it if you have one!
I was able to stop at this step and jump ahead to removing the battery. I did this based on the fact that the batteries were extremely swollen and I could see that the adhesive strips below were already separated from the bottom quite a bit. In retrospect my wife had complained that the computer ran very hot in the vicinity of the batteries (not sure why) but that heat apparently diminished the adhesive properties and allowed me to slowly pry the cells up while using a spudger to push between the case and batteries. Saved twenty some odd steps by doing it that way. If the batteries weren’t swollen I could not have done it this way. NOTE: When ordering just the battery adhesive remover is NOT included. I did not order it because I have acetone here and felt I did not need the iFixit remover.
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Stecke das flache Ende eines Spudgers unter die Gummiummantelung des Kühlkörpers des linken Lüfters, damit du sie herunternehmen kannst.
This came of super easy as the glue seemed to have dried up or something of that nature; anyone know if this is an issue?
Also it seemed like there are clips on sides of the rubber heat sink which I couldn't work out how to clip it back on, so I placed it back where it was after and it seems to be ok; maybe it isn't meant to clip on hard and rather just to be a security measure. Anyone else had this?
I have this feeling that my “noisi fan” was actually the loose end of this rubber cover. So verify that you insert rubber clips back to its slots on under the edge of the sink.
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Entferne die folgenden drei Schrauben, mit denen der linke Lüfter am Logic Board befestigt ist:
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Eine 4,4 mm T5 Torx-Schraube mit 2 mm Bund
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Eine 5 mm T5 Torx Schraube mit 2 mm Bund
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Eine 3,9 mm T5 Torx Breitkopfschraube
One 3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw
what exactly do you mean by wide head torx screw? Is that another torx screw i should buy?
best regards,
Seth
“Wide Head” just refers to the head of the screw being a bit wider than the others. It shouldn’t affect the size of the tool needed. That said, I also was unable to remove this screw with a T5. The screw on mine looked corroded. I ended up using Vampliers (great tool).
seems like T5 is the wrong screwdriver for the "3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw"
T4 seems to have worked for me
The nut of the 3.9 mm T5 screw (marked with red circle) seams to be glued or soldered onto the pcb. On my laptop, the connection broke so the nut is rattling on the pcb making a sick noise.
Does anybody have an idea, how to best fix the nut on the pcb again?
Marcel: The 3.9mm screw threads into a metal standoff (not a nut) that's glued to the logic board. If this standoff comes off of the board, a drop of superglue may allow it to stay in place, but to position the standoff properly while re-gluing it, first reattach it to the fan with its screw, then place a drop of superglue on the bottom end of the standoff, then drop the fan back into place and apply a little pressure to the top of the screw to help the superglue stick to the logic board.
"One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw with 2 mm collar" (red) .. mine had no collar; I noticed on closing up.
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Klappe den Sicherungsbügel am ZIF-Anschluss des linken Ventilator-Flachbandkabels mit der Spitze eines Spudgers nach oben.
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Schiebe ein Plastiköffnungswerkzeug von oben unter das linke Lüfterkabel, um das Kabel vom Logic Board zu lösen.
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Hebe den linken Lüfter aus dem Gerät.
a question out of curiosity is it possible to remove that left fan completely and use and external fan instead of it?
and what is that fan for? is it for CPU or VGA? i noticed someone was referring to that fan as vga's fan.
I can't imagine any scenario why one might want to do that Einstein. An external fan on a laptop? Seriously?
be nice, silly
Couldn’t manage to “flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.”, in fact think I may may broken a piece off. In the end just pulled out the cable by sliding it down and out (maybe I did manage to loosen it after all). Cable didn’t appear to be glued down thankfully.
That happened to me too! Little pieces of copper came off but I couldn’t see where from . I hope it’ll work after I reassemble.
Holes on the new fan did not exactly match up and ribbon cable has more tension as a result -
I had to cut the loop on the mount for the 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw. Not ideal.
So, what do I do if I break the connector on the board? Serious question, yes I did it. Now, how do I get the replacement part?
The retaining flat is super fragile. And I doubt there’s any practical way to replace it. Don’t know if the connector still works ok without the flap.
After I exchanged the fan it‘s super noisy. I ordered at the ifixit shop and it seems it works but it‘s just super noisy. Does anyone know why?
Thanks
I have the same issue with my newly replaced fan…sounds worse than the broken one - will need to check with the ifixit team…
reported this to the support team and got a replacement within one day. The new part works fine - no noise at all, old one is on the way back. Thank you iFixit!
Left fan was 400% harder to remove due to adhesive. Use the opening tool to gently pry the cable little by little and eventually it will come up. The adhesive pad is the same size and position as the foam pad so concentrate your efforts there
Heads up that the ribbon cable slides into the connector on the board like a little tiny SD card.
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Entferne die einzelne 3,1 mm T5 Torx-Schraube, mit der die SSD am Logic Board befestigt ist.
When I got to this step I realized the screw was stripped. I'm unsure if it was stripped by my efforts -- I used the prescribed P5 screwdriver that was also used for the other screws, and the screwdriver still works when putting the lid back on.
So to extract the stripped screw in Step 5 I've ordered iFixit's Precision Screw Extractor Set.
Now I'm wondering if I also need to find a replacement screw since I probably won't be able to use the stripped one again after it's been extracted? The screw is called: 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw as per this guide .. the best I can find on eBay are screws called: 1,4 X 3,1 mm Torx T5 or 1,5 X 3,1 mm Torx T5 ... will one of these work? Would I be able to just go to a hardware store and find the proper screw or is it a specialty item?
I'm sure you've long since figured it out, but for the benefit of anyone else reading this, a P5 is not a T5. It's a different screwdriver. The driver for the screws on the outside of the case will not work on the screw holding the SSD. I'm not sure why they left it off in the list of tools at the top.
The screws on the outside of the case are Pentalobe.
The screw for the SSD is Torx.
Both drivers are (now) on the list of required tools.
(However, my devices both have a T6 head, not T5. May have been after-market.)
For the Macbook Pro Retina 15" Late 2013 models, I've heard the SSD is soldered to the logic board. This guide is for that model, but it doesn't address the soldering issue. Have I just been misinformed on this issue? Has anyone tried it with the late 2013 model yet?
The SSD is not soldered to the board. You maybe thinking of the RAM which is soldered. (thank you apple) *dripping sarcasm*
I was needing to send my mid 2014 15" MacBook Pro in for a keyboard repair, and my company IT department shipped me a loaner of the same model except that it had a smaller SSD in it than mine, and said I should swap the SSDs between the two and then send mine back with the smaller drive in it to get fixed. I've been unable to swap the drives because neither mine nor the loaner (which are both the same model) appear to have a T5 screw holding the SSD in place. Both of them appear to have a T4, not a T5 (whatever it is is smaller than a T5 anyway, so I'm guessing it's a T4). So now I'm on hold until I can find a T4 screwdriver.
OK, got the new tool set, and yes, it really is actually a T5 screw, you just need a really sharp driver. My existing T5 driver was getting a little dull on the tip. So make sure you have a really new/precision T5 driver/bit to use (and again I'll point out that ifixit failed to list this tool in the list of needed tools at the top).
Both of my A1398 computers (Mid-2012 Retina 15” and Late 2013 Retina 15”) have a screw that my T6 bit fits perfectly. If using a T5 screwdriver/bit makes your screw seem stripped, try the T6.
(The 2012 was purchased second-hand, and the 2013 was purchased from a dealer known for unauthorized upgrades; it is possible my screws were swapped.)
I’m pretty certain this screw is a tiny bit larger diameter than the others — I mixed it up and tried to use it elsewhere, and it wouldn’t fit, so IO swapped in another and set this one aside. Later when I got to this point, other screws were too small and wouldn’t grab. So I tried the one I had set aside earlier, and it fit perfectly. That might explain why this one seemed “stripped” to another commentator.
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Hebe die rechte Seite der SSD leicht an und schiebe sie aus ihrer Buchse auf dem Logic Board heraus.
where can I buy a 1 or 2 TB SSD? I think it isn’t possible using a SSD like I build in my MacBook Pro mid 2012?
You can get 1TB or 2TB SSD from OWC macsales.com
Hi,
I intent to purchase a 2 TB ssd for my late 2013 MBP. I read some comments, that the mac reaacted weirdly and was not 100 % compatible with the ssd (not waiking up properly, macstart sound sounded twice, sometimes freezing…). Can you confirm these issues, and are there any workaroundas for them?
Secondly I plan to restore the time machine from my broken late 2011 MBP. Since you recommended late os for the ssd upgrade I was wondering whether If I restore a time machine backup with an older os if my ssd will cause problems then because the drivers are suddenly missing?
Thanks and best regards
ramón
I did this first thing after disconnecting the battery and I'd suggest everyone to do the same! Save your data!
My battery was bulging and it is obviously quite dangerous. But anyways, any battery in seemingly good conditions can be dangerous as well.
So in order to prevent a massive data loss along a very long crying session, I opened the back, disconnected the batt as per the guide instructions and then took the SSD off.
So in case something had gone wrong and the battery started smoking forcing me to throw my laptop off the window, burying it in sand or the whole thing starting to burn, I would've already had a way to access my data by setting the SSD aside first thing.
It is actually no joke when working with batteries, specially when they're bulging like mine was. Check videos on youtube and see how volatile these things can be!
Kudos to the iFixit team, this is a great guide!
Ismael: That's a good idea, but it's also a good idea to back up the SSD before beginning the Macbook disassembly procedure. This way you'll have two copies of your data, and you can plug the backup into another Mac if you need access to it before you've got your Macbook reassembled, especially if something goes wrong during reassembly that prevents you from using your Macbook for a while.
Do i need to reinstall macos when i change the ssd? And is the data on the mac will change when changing it?
@azkap — All the data from your ︎Mac is stored on this tiny, little SSD chip. Everything is on there.
First, you need to use Carbon Copy Cloner (CCC) or SuperDuper! programs to clone (backup) your current SSD to an external hard drive, ︎TimeCapsule, or somewhere else.
When you put the new blank (empty) SSD in, you can use the same programs to clone the contents (operating system and data), of your old SSD to your brand new SSD.
That’s the principle. Asking someone you know of (who’s a wizz with Apple Mac’s), to help, might be wise.
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Verwende die Spitze eines Spudgers, um den Verschluss des I/O-Board Datenkabels nach oben zu klappen und es Richtung Akku zu drehen.
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Verwende das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um das Datenkabel des I/O-Boards aus seiner Buchse auf dem Logic Board herauszuziehen.
This is a difficult step. A few images for the removal of the cable would be good/better
Yes, a few more detailed pics here would help. Indeed, general pics explaining HOW ALL the plugs and sockets fit would be VERY handy :-)
Here is that guide!
I helped me to use the pliers both to get underneath the canble lock and then push on the wings of the cable.
Used fingers on the cable lock.
I found it easier to just use my finger nail to release the clamping lever. Then the spudger to ease it out.
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Entferne die beiden 3,1 mm T5 Torx-Schrauben, mit denen das I/O Board am Logic Board befestigt ist.
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Bei manchen Modellen hilft es beim Ausbau des I/O Boards zusätzlich, wenn du auch die silberne 3,5 mm Torx T5 Schraube vom Kühlkörper entfernst.
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Hebe das I/O Board vorsichtig an und entferne es aus dem unteren Gehäuse.
it actually has an extra screw that needs to be removed.
Thank you. Removing the screw by the heat sink really helped get this board removed.
It helped me to push the IO board further into the casing and then lifting.
i/o cable was much easier to remove after freeing the i/o board & slightly lifting it. SK
Yes, I replace motherboard without touch IO Board
On a 2014.5 design, these instructions should be revised on this process. The heat pipe needs to be removed first if one were to remove the I/O CCA, Reason being, the CCA is installed first into the case and then the heat pipe contact tab lays atop the CCA under the plastic injection molded part. This injection molded piece part secures the tab to the CCA to ensure optimal contact thus, ensuring heat is wicked away from the CCA.
So when I see comments regarding how it is easier to install than remove, that is an indicator that the user was unaware of how to correctly assemble this component thus, the CCA top side substrate is sitting below the heat pipe tab vs. the other way around.
This will induce a thermal issue on the I/O CCA and also, possibly short out the board when the conformal coating and painted surface of the heat pipe wears off due to vibration when cables are connected.
While I like these instructions, I would overhaul them and revise them.
Yes, removing the screw near the heat sink really did make it come out easily!
Notice that the silver 3.5 mm T5 Torx screw is the same one you’re going the be asked to remove on step 29.
As per comments above, I found it mandatory to remove the extra silver screw near the heat sink, which locked the logic board.
Hence, the instructions for this step were very relevant:
"On some models, also removing the silver 3.5 mm T5 Torx screw from the heatsink can aid in I/O board removal."
If you have a Transcend JetDrive installed, it needs to be removed. It was just so familiar and form-fitting that I forgot it was in there. Removing it made the I/O board suddenly so easy to remove...
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Verwende das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um die Kopfhörerbuchse von ihrem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board nach oben abzuziehen.
After connect the cable aux is not working
Mine is not working as well after reconnecting, what to do now?
Strange, I'm working on the same model, and it doesn't have a flex here. It's soldered.
Same as Ross. No cable to pry. It’s soldered. But looks like I can continue on anyway
Mine not soldered.
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Verwende das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um den linken Lautsprecheranschluss aus seiner Buchse auf dem Logic Board herauszuziehen.
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Benutze die Spitze eines Spudgers, um den rechten Lautsprecheranschluss aus seiner Buchse auf dem Logic Board herauszuziehen.
This step could use an image showing the cable lock in the "up" position, releasing the connector. It is hard to see how it works in the "down" position. I think this is the actual connector - there are images in the PDF linked here:
http://www.ddknet.co.jp/English/products...
My MBP has an intermittent connection in this keyboard cable. It would be good to know where to buy a replacement!
Pry the speaker connectors *up and out*. Doing it from the cable's sides, next to connectors, is easier.
Adhesive under the left cable made it hard for me to remove it. The right one came out very easy.
i broke off all the connectors to the logic board any fix for this ?
Key here is to go EXTREMELY slow and gentle. The speaker connector in left photo has no release lever(in case you were wondering) I used a tweezer to hold very outside edge down while massaging cable side from underneath with spooner. Gentle rocking and it finally came out properly!
These instructions are completely inadequate. For anyone who hasn’t done this before, there has to be some image of whatever it is that releases the cables. “Pry the left speaker connector up” without showing the release is just telling me how to turn my computer into junk. . . Which I just did. It’s twelve years old and fully backed up, so I was prepared for this, but I am very disappointed in these instructions. They’ve been bad from the start.
Es wäre besser, wenn man den Ausbau des rechten Lautsprecherkabels besser heraushebt! Ich habe das leider überlesen und den Connector zerstört. Aber ich habe es doch irgendwie geschafft, das der Lautsprecher funktioniert!
Pay attention that there are 2 connectors of speakers! Otherwise, you will realise in step 32 (like I did) that you forgot one of them ;).
Despite being extremely careful, both of these connectors broke off from their position on the logic board. It seems like they were soldered on rather than being just a push fit.
following these instructions exactly removed the entire socket from the board. This needs much more detailed instructions and pictures on how to accomplish this and how the connector is put together. the wide view here is grossly inadequate. This needs a much bigger warning to slide the cable away from the connector as any prying will destroy it. The socket came up and took the pads with it, so there's no soldering it back on. guess I'll just have to go without one audio channel in the onboard speakers
On minute 15:04, in this video, this step is better explained: https://youtu.be/ykqJenHhZJs
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Wenn sich Klebeband auf dem Stecker des Tastatur-Flachbandkabels befindet, dann ziehe es davon ab.
On Re-assembly, I found this to be the hardest part. I resorted to using the provided tweezers and taking turns left and right, working it back into its ZIF socket. If someone knows a better way, please share.
I just got done with this and my plus/equal, tilde/apostraphe, brackets/braces and volume up keys are not working. Wondering is this isn't seated correctly or if i damaged something. :-(
This is one of the fussier flex cables to reconnect. I'd say it's worth opening it back up and reseating it. Only takes a few minutes—just disconnect the battery and then come straight to this step. Make sure the cable contacts are clean (wipe them with a little isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth), and that the connector is clear of any dirt/debris (give it a good blast or two with some compressed air). Make sure the cable is inserted perfectly flat and straight into the connector (this is the hardest part, just takes patience and a little dexterity). Good luck!
After replacing the battery I also ended up with keys that don't work (ESC, 0, -, p, ;, ', ENTER). Tried reseating the connector, but without any luck. What is weird is that the keys sometimes work, sometimes they don't. Usually they don't in the first 10 minutes or so after I turn on the mac. If the room temperature is lower (if it's cold), the keys are not functional for a longer period of time...
Advice for other people who are changing their macbook battery: take extra care with this connector!
Use the retaining flap to pull the ribbon cable back into the socket.
This keyboard ribbon is so thin. It is like thinner than X-ray film. I was afraid to remove the ribbon from the socket. So, I skipped this step and follow other steps till ‘Step 30’. I didn't remove the logic board as shown in Step 31 and 32. Instead, I removed DC board screws and then DC board from the hole. The cable from the DC board connected at bottom corner of the logic board. I hold the MacBook Pro vertically and lift the logic board slightly and removed the DC board ‘plug’ from the socket. Next, I plugged in the new DC board and followed this procedure in reverse order ( from Step 30 to Step 1). Everything went fine. Important Note: When lifting logic board, please do it carefully and very slowly. Don’t be hurry and don’t break anything. Use magnifying glass and Magnifier in your iPhone to see the tiny parts big and clearly, before removing them.
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Klappe den Sicherungsbügel am ZIF-Anschluss des Flachbandkabels der Tastatur mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers hoch.
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Ziehe das Tastatur-Flachbandkabel mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus dem Anschluss heraus. Drücke erst auf einer, dann auf der anderen Seite.
What is the connector to the right of the keyboard (shown in the above diagram i.e with battery at the bottom)?
There doesn’t seem to be anything attached to this connector on my system.
The trackpad connector looks quite similar to the leftof thekeyboard connector.
I was having trouble seating the keyboard connection back in. In actuality the issue was the real electronic connector was hidden under logic board after reinstalling the PCB! i was trying to insert the Tape cover instead! Had to re-loosen Logic board and retrieve connector (should see metal traces on the connection strip (that is an easy way to confirm! I had used some scotch tape to hold the cover tape back and this caused me to miss the actual wire harness! I advise anyone doing this process to have a magnifyer with a light so it is easier to see the small parts.
Rather than pushing with the Spudger, I found it much easier to use the tape to pull directly back on the connector.
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Verwende das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um den Anschluss des Trackpad-Flachbandkabels von seiner Buchse auf dem Logic Board zu hebeln.
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Verwende das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um den Anschluss für die Hintergrundbeleuchtung der Tastatur von seiner Buchse auf dem Logic Board nach oben abzuziehen.
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Klappe mit der Spitze eines Spudgers oder mit deinem Fingernagel die Halteklappe an der ZIF-Buchse des Mikrofon-Flachbandkabels nach oben.
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Ziehe das Mikrofon-Flachbandkabel aus seiner Buchse.
Meaning, pull the ribbon cable out horizontally. And be aware that the copper wiring is on the underside of the cable and the topside is just black plastic, so don’t freak out and think you ripped something pulling it out.
This cable is quite stiff and felt very resistant to being pulled out - I gently shaped a small bread tag piece of plastic in to a hook that would gently and evenly pull the cable back without tilting it to one side or the other. It is also a pain getting it back in when replacing the logic board - very stiff. Be patient.
I just used tweezers.
Looks like it had a sticky patch fixing it near the edge of the board - this would make it unwilling to come out of the socket. The patch looks to be the width of the cable and square, so probably pushing a thin something (plastic) under the cable up to the edge of the board would unstick it.
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Benutze die Spitze eines Spudgers, um den Verschluss des Display Datenkabels zu lösen und drehe es in Richtung des DC-In.
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Ziehe das Display Datenkabel aus seiner Buchse auf dem Logic Board heraus.
I'd recommend using the pliers.
conflicting... correct is 'Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.'
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Verwende das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um vorsichtig die Gummikappe der Linsenschraube in der Nähe des MagSafe 2-Steckers abzuhebeln.
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Entferne die folgenden sechs Schrauben, mit denen das Logic Board am oberen Gehäuse befestigt ist:
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Eine 2,6 mm T5 Torx Schraube
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Zwei 5,8 mm T5 Torx Schrauben
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Eine 3,8 mm T5 Torx Schraube
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Eine 5,2 mm T5 Torx Linsenschraube
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Eine silberne 3,5 mm T5 Torx Schraube
anthony: Unplugging the right speaker connector was done in step 23.
No, you are mistaken . Step 23 was for the LEFT speaker. Anthony is correct stating that right speaker disconnect is missing from this guide. NOW is the time to disconnect the right speaker from the LB!
when following on the contrary, its good to check all the ribbons and cables to make sure some are not stuck under board prior to screwing down.
green indicator: raised head screw is the one you removed the rubber cap from in prior step. (I removed – and then replaced — a different screw in this step. Revisited it with more daylight and saw my error.)
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Hebe das Logic Board an der Seite an, die dem Akku am nächsten liegt und drehe es nach oben.
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Drücke den MagSafe 2-Stecker vorsichtig mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers aus seiner Buchse auf der Unterseite des Logic Boards.
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Im Uhrzeigersinn von oben: Tastatur, Trackpad, Akku, rechter Lautsprecher, Hintergrundbeleuchtung der Tastatur, Display, Mikrofon, Kopfhörerbuchse, linker Lautsprecher.
In bullet #1 I lifted logic board from left side (nearest battery), tilted toward right side (port side) and pulled to to the left a bit to get ports out of chassis cutouts.
Then I followed bullet #2.
Going revese order, remember about mic connector and backlit connector. Those nasty small tails are easy to omit. Then you will have to repeat disassembly to get them from under mainboard.
@radioerewan @talarohk - I think that's a good idea. I went ahead and added a photo showing all the cable locations to check—hopefully it will save someone some trouble! Thanks for your comments.
This was the single most important pic of the reassembly.
Yes, be very careful before screwing things down. I also forgot the backlight and the display cables. Had the cover for the display cable out, but not the actual cable. I was able to use tweezers to fish the cables out after removing the screws but without removing the whole board.
I had to go back cause I couldn’t figure out where the logic board connector into (under the board). Funny enough i assembled it and it worked though the night and didn’t come on again. Had to go through the whole process b4 i figured it out. Definitely a good idea to at least breeze through all the images
In link MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mitte 2015 Logic Board austauschen step 34 the second picture exit the procedure install ZIP
Thank you!!! This is the 1st time I opened up my MBP to replace something myself & I was looking so long for a picture like this because my setup, albeit a mid-2012, looks exactly like this photo & I couldn’t figure out if removing the top flap would ruin this part. You are a life-saver! 🙏🏽😬
Sleo007 -
reassembly: so far the hardest step. After getting all the connectors above board, I still couldn’t quite line up the screw holes. It finally turned out that the board was being prevented from being in its full leftward position because the edge of a flange at the top of the USB port was directly positioned against the edge of a flange on the case. I used my thumbnail to press down on the port’s flange so that it slid under the case flange, allowing the board to shift left another half-millimeter and make everything finally line up.
I Just removed the whole power connector with the main board, seemed a little easier. But that’s just me. Good manual thou.
Had a lot of trouble getting the power cable out. Would definitly recomend this.
100% take the power connector out. This guide is amazing but that is something I would change in it. Also I would do step 35 before attempting to remove the logic board. Unsure if there are other implications of this approach.
Am I completely stupid? ...! When I wanted to remove the mainboard, it was still connected to a plug. I searched, but found no indication about this plug. So I had to try to figure out how this plug works. I started trying, which finally tore the console off the board: -o ...: .- ( It is a small plug to the right of the power supply - Pic. #3 top right!!. Comes below the battery. Note, this must be pushed backwards, but may have a lock. What can I do now? If someone has a tip that I do not have to change my motherboard, I am very, very grateful!
I had the same issue where that cable was still connected. I noticed that it was the same type as another one where it needed to be lifted vertically so I did that using the tweesers.
Same problem here, so concerned I might break it I've been working on it for more than an hour! Frustrating to be stuck this late in the process. Anyone know how we missed it in the guide and what it's called?
Definitely unscrew and remove the two screws that hold the MagSafe 2 connector then remove the connector with the board.
The connector that’s not mentioned in the dissasembly manual is the right hand loudspeaker connector. It pulls up, just the same way as the left hand loudspeaker connector does. No locking tab.
Other than that it’s a brilliant dissasembly instruction manual, well done.
I took the logic board out, re-soldered U8900 (well known issue with these boards) and put it back together following the manual in reveres. All works fine now.
One thing that I did which helped. I printed the manual off, then stuck the screws in every case to the page next to where each screw was described using cellotape. So every screw went back exactly where it came from.
It is mentioned in step 23, but I agree it was not very clear (I also realised in this step).
For me, this step was the most hard part when reassemble. Because it is easy to forget or hard to reconnect MagSafe 2 connector properly. I had to give in to professionals just to find out i couldn’t plug this MagSafe 2 connector properly. because of it’s limited angle and i only have 2 hands to do the job while board is lifted.
Instead of disconnecting the magsafe socket, I unscrewed the two screws holding it to the case. Then, when the logic board is removed, the connector will slide out with the logic board. Also useful to if theres a bunch of magnetic junk stuck to the adapter as it becomes easy to clean.
Unscrewing the 2 magsafe screws should be put as a step in the manual. I had a hard time disconnecting the cable and a hard time trying to connect it back when reassembling because there is not enough room to do it and i couldn’t figure out that there is a small clip that holds the connector back in place safely. I had to repeat the role proccess of assemble/disassemble twice in order to fix the magsafe not charging issue. I thought i had lost the connector or damaged the board.
Agreed. I found it necessary to unscrew the magsafe power socket from the main board during disassembly to help unplug the ribbon cable from the main board, then screw in the magsafe power socket before the main board during reassembly. The magsafe power socket plug is too short to try and reattach when the magsafe power socket remain attached to the chasis.
It is not necessary to remove the logic board for this. I did this process without removing the logic board and the 30 steps required to disconnect, remove and reconnect it. It was much easier. Not sure why iFixit insists on removing the logic board: its presence does not block removal of the battery.
Same question here. What’s the reason behind removing entire logic board?
@bendoherty @sandwah @artskupienski The reason for removing the logic board is because the magsafe 2 connector cable is actually underneath the logic board. I tried to skip the steps 5-30, as some suggested, & unscrewed the 2 screws holding the magsafe 2 port in place. However, I ended up having to go back & disassemble everything, because you cannot see the magsafe 2 cable from the top of the logic board. Thus, if you want to replace the magsafe 2 port (not the battery), you must disassemble the logic board.
Sleo007 -
From what i gather, logic board removal facilitates de-adhering the ex-battery units, as the solvent can damage the speakers.
This manual is also for replacing the Upper Case Palmrest Assembly which requires the Logic Board be swapped into the replacement Assembly. I recommend removing the two T5 screws on the MagSafe Board before attempting to remove the Logic Board instead of removing the MagSafe Cable from the underside of the Logic Board, and transferring them together into the new Assembly.
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Entferne die folgenden drei Schrauben, mit denen der linke Lautsprecher am oberen Gehäuse befestigt ist:
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Eine 5,6 mm T5 Torx Schraube
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Eine 6,9 mm T5 Torx Schraube
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Eine 2,6 mm T5 Torx Schraube
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Hebe den linken Lautsprecher aus dem oberen Gehäuse heraus und lege ihn beiseite.
On my MBP there was an adhesive holding the speakers down. So, "lifting" was not exactly accurate.
I have A1398 15 inch , need to replace or fixed left speaker but i can’t find One 2.6 mm T5 Torx screw(yellow one), any idea what to do here?
Same question as Biswajit, I can’t find the 2.6 mm T5 Torx screw (yellow one) on my mid 2012 MBP...
can you get too the speaker without taking the logic board first
How it possible to get speaker out if system without taking the logic board first?
I only removed the 10 screws and the back panel, the 5 speaker’s screws (without removing the speakers), and the two battery screws, and managed to remove the battery package without undoing anything else. I used a member card (credit card type) to loosen the adhesives under the batteries.
To remove the rest of the glue, I soaked it with something called Label Off from Biltema (Nordic). Finally, I used methylated spirit (rødsprit) to clean it all up and let it dry for 5 minutes before assembling the new battery pack.
Yeah, it seems that all this complexity is just about protecting the speakers from the acetone… a different solvent might have saved me a LOT of work, and damage to my speaker connection.
The speakers may stick so be prepared to gently force any adhesive free.
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Entferne die folgenden drei Schrauben mit denen der rechte Lautsprecher am oberen Gehäuse befestigt ist:
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Eine 5,6 mm T5 Torx Schraube
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Eine 6,9 mm T5 Torx Schraube
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Eine 2,6 mm T5 Torx Schraube
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Entferne den rechten Lautsprecher aus dem MacBook Pro.
My speaker wire was wedged under the edge of the battery. I proceeded to step 35 and removed the two battery screws. This freed up the cable.
Mine was stuck too, and I did what Fred did and waited to step 35 to try and remove the cable. It turned out not to be wedged under anything, but just glued in place.
My left Speaker makes ugly noise. do I really have to do all the steps or is it possible to just remove the speaker… I guess, it’s necessary.
The speaker has quite a lot of plastic that goes under the board at the top end. There is no option but to remove the covering parts. The notes show which steps can be skipped.
I forgot to run the speaker wire the motherboard. Can it create interference and make the speakers croate?
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Entferne die zwei 3,9 mm T5 Torx Schrauben, mit denen das Akku Board befestigt ist.
When rebuilding, be sure not to pin the square trackpad ribbon cable connector under the wide keyboard ribbon cable. It should be over the keyboard ribbon.
can i start at step 36 for the battery or do i have to do everything before it?
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Lege eine Aluminiumfolie zwischen Display und Tastatur, um dein Display zu schützen. Die Folie sollte während des gesamten Arbeitsprozesses dort bleiben.
I was wondering how it could leak. I suppose you could spill it, or flood the battery space with it and it leaks through the trackpad.
You’re correct. On most models, it’s unlikely to leak unless you use way too much. The foil is a “better-safe-than-sorry” precaution.
At this point removing the screen is a matter of minutes so to be safe I just removed the display assembly all together.
Agreed, might as well just remove it to be safe, you’ve removed everything else and it’s just 6 more screws and 5 minutes time.
It”s 8 more screws. Ie the 6 T8 screws and the two small T5 that hold to retaining brackets. But easy, and i recommend for your first battery swap.
In my case it leaked through the trackpad…. I had a transparent film (instead of aluminium) and it did not damage the screen.
Je confirme...
Sans protection, le dissolvant affecte bien le revêtement anti-reflet au niveau du trackpad. Le dissolvant "se faufile" de l'autre côté au niveau du trackpad.
Ca va me faire une réparation supplémentaire : changer la vitre du MacBook Pro, ainsi que le cauotchouc qui entoure cette même vitre.
Je ne vois hélas pas de tutoriel sur iFixIt pour changer la vitre sur ce modèle...
On en a un pour l'écran complet, si ca peut vous aider: https://fr.ifixit.com/Tutoriel/Remplacem...
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Die Vorderkante des MacBook Pro sollte zu dir zeigen. Hebe die rechte Seite an und schiebe einen stabilen Schaumstoffblock oder ein Buch unter, so dass das MacBook Pro leicht schräg steht.
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Dein MacBook Pro ist jetzt gut vorbereitet, nun wird es Zeit, auch dich selbst vorzubereiten.
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Wenn du mit dem Klebstoffentferner arbeitest und ihn aufbringst, solltest du immer deine Augen schützen. (Eine Schutzbrille ist in deinem Kit enthalten).
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Insbesondere auch wenn du Kontaktlinsen trägst, musst du zusätzlich die Schutzbrille aufsetzen.
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In deinem Kit sind auch Schutzhandschuhe enthalten. Wenn deine Haut empfindlich ist, solltest du die Handschuhe jetzt anziehen.
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Ziehe den schwarzen Gummistopfen von dem Fläschchen mit Klebstoffentferner ab.
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Schneide die verschlossene Applikatorspitze mit einer Schere ab.
For all those who acquired the battery from another vendor who did not supply you with above mentionned glue-remover or similar: Acetone or Silicone Remover work well too, as many other also commented through various steps of this turorial. I tried using petrol (or gasonline for our american readers - not to mix up with petroleum, which is something completely different), which worked well for me for iPad repairs before but I cannot recommend it in this special case. Thinner might work as well, but be very careful, for it dissolves plastic and might damage the battery covering in which the lithium is shrink-wrapped in. Also take good care not to damage any cables with thinner if you decide to use it. A well ventilated room goes without saying for all mentionned dissolvents.
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Gib einige Tropfen des Klebstoffentferners gleichmäßig am erhöhten Rand entlang auf die am weitesten rechts liegenden Akkuzelle.
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Warte 2-3 Minuten, bis der flüssige Klebstoffentferner unter die Aktuelle eingedrungen ist, bevor du mit dem nächsten Schritt fortfährst.
I found I needed to use a lot of the adhesive remover to assist with a stubborn battery pack that had been in place for 10 years.
This was my 2nd replacement on this model MBP with IFixit kit. I didn’t remove any components. I covered display. I found that slipping the plastic card slightly under the battery until it hits adhesive and then let a few drops of solvent roll down the card to the adhesive/battery as you are working the card back and forth works really quick. The edge of the card puts the solvent right where it is needed. Was able remove battery in a few minutes without excess solvent or a mess.
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In diesem Schritt verwendetes Werkzeug:Plastic Cards$2.99
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Setze die Ecke einer Kunststoffkarte unter dem äußeren Rand der Akkuzelle an.
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Führe die Karte weiter unter die Akkuzelle, um sie von dem Kleber zu lösen, mit dem sie in das obere Gehäuse des MacBook Pro eingeklebt ist.
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Hebe die Akkuzelle an, um sie vom oberen Gehäuse des MacBook Pro zu lösen, aber versuche noch nicht, sie ganz zu entfernen.
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Lasse die Plastikkarte unter der Akkuzelle, damit sie nicht wieder festklebt, während du weitermachst.
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Gib einige Tropfen des Klebstoffentferners gleichmäßig am erhöhten Rand entlang auf die nächste Akkuzelle.
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Warte 2-3 Minuten, bis der flüssige Klebstoffentferner unter die Aktuelle eingedrungen ist, bevor du mit dem nächsten Schritt fortfährst.
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Schiebe eine Ecke deiner Plastikkarte unter die zweite Akkuzelle.
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Drücke die Karte weiter unter die zweite Akkuzelle und schiebe sie hin und her, damit sich der darunterliegende Kleber löst.
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Lasse die Plastikkarte unter beiden Akkuzellen (oder klappe sie um), damit sie nicht wieder ankleben, wenn du weitermachst.
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Es ist Zeit, die Seiten zu wechseln. Entferne dein Buch oder deinen Schaumstoffblock und lege ihn unter die gegenüberliegende Seite deines MacBook Pro.
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Wiederhole den Vorgang aus den vorherigen Schritten, um die beiden Akkuzellen auf dieser Seite abzulösen:
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Trage den Klebstoff-Entferner auf die erhöhte Kante der äußeren Akkuzelle auf und warte 2-3 Minuten, bis er einwirkt.
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Drücke eine Ecke einer Plastikkarte unter die Akkuzelle und schiebe die Karte vollständig unter die Akkuzelle, um diese vom Kleber zu lösen.
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Mache dasselbe bei der benachbarten Zelle.
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Lasse deine Plastikkarte an Ort und Stelle oder klappe die Akkuzellen um, damit sie bei den folgenden Schritten nicht wieder anhaften.
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Entferne dein Buch oder deinen Schaumstoffblock und lege ihn unter die hintere Kante deines MacBook Pro in der Nähe der Displayscharniere.
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Nimm den Akkustecker oder die obere Kante des Kunststoffrahmens des Akkus und hebe ihn leicht an, so dass die obere Kante der beiden mittleren Akkuzellen freigelegt wird.
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Hebe den Kunststoffrahmen des Akkus aus dem Weg und lasse ein paar Tropfen des Klebstoffentferners unter die Oberkante von jeder der beiden verbleibenden Akkuzellen laufen.
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Warte 2-3 Minuten, damit der flüssige Klebstoffentferner einwirken kann, bevor du mit dem nächsten Schritt fortfährst.
Instead of this, I just went and got safety wire I have, cut about 2ft, and then tucked it under a batter cell and went back and forth, about 5 times, and it cut through the adhesive. Did that for each cell and battery came right out. I didn’t bother removing the old adhesive, no point imo and saved from any liquids in the computer.
I put the laptop at about 45º on its edge so the solvent could flow down, and then when doing the separation it was much easier to get the card between the metal plate and the batteries with the laptop case completely vertical. The double sided mounting tape on the battery is really aggressive and the rubberised compound quite annoying to remove the last traces off the metal plate. You will need a generous amount of solvent on a cleaning cloth or paper to remove the last of the adhesive.
One thng that I have never seen mentioned is that when you remove the two cenre cells it is quite easy to lift the metal plate that sits between the trackpad and the battery. My plate ame right off and was attached to the battery. Luckily I didn’t bend it very much but it would have been nice to know that this was a distinct possibility. The adhesive between this trackpad cover plate (thin stainless steeland the battery is a !&&* of a lot stronger that the adhesive between the plate and the body of the Macbook. It amazes me that I have never seen this mentioned in any written or video guide so be careful
Well, it actually is mentioned in the next step…
this won’t damage the trackpad right? i’m worried about that….
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Hebe den Kunststoffrahmen wieder aus dem Weg und drücke eine Ecke deiner Plastikkarte unter den äußeren Rand der ersten mittleren Akkuzelle.
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Schiebe die Karte ganz unter der Akkuzelle und lasse sie dort, damit die Akkuzelle nicht wieder anhaftet.
Pulled off the thin metal plate. Should I try to put it back in (bent up a bit) or leave it out upon replacing the battery?
This plate needs to go back, note that the flanged edges are pointing down and that there is a cut out at the top for the trackpad wiring otherwise you will not have your trackpad clicking, also make sure that you have not disturbed the trackpad connection under the plate - if so re-connect.
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Wiederhole den oben beschriebenen Vorgang, um die letzte verbleibende Akkuzelle vom oberen Gehäuse des MacBook Pro zu trennen.
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Hebe den Akku mit dem Kunststoffrahmen an und ziehe ihn nach hinten in Richtung Scharnier aus den Schraubstiften heraus, mit denen er am oberen Gehäuse befestigt ist.
Ich habe am Sonntag den Akku gewechselt . Alles nach der Anleitung .
Ich habe mich an die Anleitung gehalten , beim aus sowie beim Einbau. es verlief alles tadellos auch für mich als Einsteiger . es war zwar vieles etwas kniffelig mit der Elektronik und den keinen Schrauben . 1 bis 2 Stunden , nun ja , das hat leider nicht gereicht . 2 Einhalb bis 3 Stunden , den die meiste Zeit habe ich damit verbracht den Kleber des Akkus zu entfernen , der beigelegte kleberentferner nun ja , war nicht besonders oder ich hatte zu wenig Geduld . Alles in allem bin ich aber trotz allem sehr zufrieden .
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Hebe den Akku nun als Ganzes aus dem oberen Gehäuse heraus und entferne ihn.
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Mit etwas Glück kannst du jeden einzelnen Klebestreifen langsam mit den Fingern abziehen.
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Falls das nicht klappt, träufle etwas Klebstoffentferner auf jeden Klebestreifen und lasse ihn 2-3 Minuten einwirken. Dann kannst du die Klebestreifen mit einem Plektron oder einem anderen geeigneten Werkzeug aus deinem Kit abkratzen. Das ist etwas langwierig, hier hilft dir nur Geduld!
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Wische den restlichen Klebstoffentferner ab und lass dein MacBook Pro ein paar Minuten an der Luft trocknen.
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Kalibriere den neu eingebauten Akku: Lade ihn auf 100% auf und lasse ihn mindestens 2 weitere Stunden eingesteckt. Benutze dein MacBook Pro wie gewohnt, um den Akku zu entleeren. Wenn das MacBook wegen geringem Akkustand von selbst in den Standby-Modus geht, lasse es noch mindestens 5 Stunden liegen, bevor du es wieder auf 100% lädst.
Tip: when testing the battery's fit, once you have it in place and the screw holes are lined up, I made two little marks with a pen right where it tucks under the screw posts. Then once you have the adhesive backs removed, just hold the battery upright and line up with your markings, then tilt it down and tuck it under.
I'll arrange to send another bottle of the Adhesive Remover Solution your way. :)
For anyone who's wondering, you can use the solvent quite sparingly—there's more than enough for one, possibly two battery jobs in there. But it can be tough to tell how much is enough if you're doing it for the first time. Stick with about 1 ml per cell, and add a second ml if needed.
I just replaced the battery in a 2011 15 inch MacBook pro last week. It took maybe 5 minutes and cost around $100. Now the life is over 100% because the new battery I got was actually a higher capacity than the stock battery.
I find it actually almost criminal that Apple has progressively tried to make it harder and harder to do DIY maintenance and improvements. At this point I refuse to buy a new Mac. I have 15 apple products in my house….but they are not going to get any newer. I prefer to buy a good used mac and put new RAM or an SSD drive in it. Maybe the graphics is not quite up to par but they are good solid machines. People (maybe a smaller subset) want choice and options and preventing any DIY work is a bad move in my mind! Typing on a 2012 MacBook pro 13 inch…which is a great size. I was able to add a 1 TB SSD to it, but it has 8 GB or RAM and that is not enough….Chrome freezes constantly and you can only have a few apps open. Come on Apple! listen to your customers, not your shareholders.
hi, after replacing the battery, all seems to work properly except the headphones jack. I can hear the sound from the internal speakers but when I plug the headphones jack sound is not output and it stills come from internal speakers. I checked again the headphone jack cable and it is properly fit on the board. I also tried resetting the SMC but problem persists. Could you please advise ? Sherif.
I want to remove the 2 center cells to get at the track pad, but it seems that plastic frame forces you to remove all the cells. Am I right? That makes the job much harder.
After replacing the battery I can’t charge the battery to 100%. Maximum charging is 91%, the led at the power cable does not get green even after hours of charging.
Even a SMC reset did not help….. Any ideas?
Got the same problem as hefe_killer. I reset the SMC, yet sometimes my MacBook just shuts off and when I charge it it says 1% even though it had maybe 50% or so left when it shut off. Also when it runs out of battery it immediately shuts off instead of falling asleep.
Me too :( Kevin
I think that in “Mop up any remaining adhesive remover and give your MacBook Pro a few minutes to air dry.” - the “mop up part is a major understatament.
This is by FAR the most laborious, messy, and time consuming step in the whole affair.. Of course it does not have to be done perfect but..
I recently replaced the battery on my MBP mid 2012 and it was working fine. I did the calibration and it seemed the battery was doing great. I was using my laptop until it hit 10% and the laptop suddenly shut down. I have tried to turn it back on using the power button but it is unresponsive. I have performed an SMC reset but it still will not turn on. How would I know if the battery is defective?
@justinhong93 Easiest way to check is to plug the old battery back into the board and see if that makes any difference. It’s a little tricky because obviously you don’t want to pry the old battery out until you’re sure whether it’s bad. But IIRC you can carefully set the old battery on top of the new one and plug it in. Secure it with some masking tape and carefully flip it over and turn it on. If that resolves the problem, it was probably a defective battery. Good luck!
Is it really necessary to remove everything or does it just give you more room to remove the battery and the adhesive?? This seems like such a daunting task when removing the battery seems so simple.
No, you are absolutely right !
I just installed the battery, it wasn’t as bad as i thought. Im anxious to make sure everything is working, can I use the laptop while its charging in its calibration state? The instructions say to charge fully and then an additional 2 hours, so does this mean (A) we can have it charging while we use it or (B) leave it powered off and charging until full, then an additional 2 hours, then we use? im confused
@joshrivera Answer (A). It’s okay to use while it’s charging.
So after double checking everything, and resetting the smc, I notice my battery status was not showing up on the menu bar. I check system preferences and the batter is at 0%. Seems like it’s not being recognized at all.
did you ever resolve this?
ammovirk -
hi there. I replaced the battery and it did charge, but the LED on the plug did not durn orange. but now it dose not charge at all anymore. after i did the reset of the SMC but now nothing happens anymore. can anyone help?
I too am having the same problem.
Roman, I was able to get my mine to boot. I pressed the left Shift-Control-Option and Power buttons for the 10+ seconds then released only the Shift-Control-Option buttons, continuing to hold the power button. Fans came on then the start-up tone. I can use it this way, but the mag-Safe does not show the LED and there is no battery monitor in the header.
I tried the SMC reset many times but it does nothing.
hopefully I’ll hear something back here or on Apple’s site.
Hi guys, I have just replaced the battery on macbook pro retina A1398 with a 1417 battery, I have orange light on magsafe however the battery information shows not charging and to replace battery now. Can anyone one enlighten some information on to what to do next?
I have also tried reset SMC several times I have noticed the right side IO board is not working properly.
Thanks
TIP: bevore putting in the new batterie, check that the batterie connector is centered, and alingned with the main board. Else you cannot nicley plug in the connector and the battery cannot be screwed in any more.
Thank you for putting this together. I’m back again with my notebook. It took me 4 hours, and I skipped steps 5 to 34.
ARE YOU SURE YOUR SMC RESET ACTUALLY HAPPENED?? HOW TO KNOW: I installed iFixit kit new battery 3mo ago into my mid-2012 MBP Retina with success except for a very abnormal battery discharge pattern (dropped to 77% in 1h, then to 28% in next 15min, then to auto-shutdown in next 45m). After multiple recalibrations, and after multiple attempts to reset SMC using the iFixit link to Apple instructions, nothing changed.
This week I discovered that the Apple instructions are correct but incomplete. Here’s what finally worked for me and gives confirmation that SMC reset occurred and for me restored normal battery discharge behavior: With battery down to about 10%, shut down Mac with lid still open; connect the charging cord; do the Apple-prescribed left-side SHIFT-CONTROL-OPTION , plus POWER key; hold for ≥10 sec; release all 4 together AND WATCH THE MAG-SAFE LED CONFIRM SMC RESET BY BRIEFLY TURNING GREEN AND THEN BACK TO RED. (Not sure if 10% state of charge is needed — might just need the red charging LED.)
Make sure you leave ok space for the speakers when you align the side elements of the battery!
Is it really necessary to remove everything or does it just give you more room to remove the battery and the adhesive?? This seems like such a daunting task when removing the battery seems so simple.
Para limpiar los adhesivos laterales que deja la batería en el unibody es mucho mas efectivo usar alcohol etílico 70 % para ablandar y raspar con un Black Stick las tipas de pega y el residuo final limpiarlo con un paño de microfibra con alcohol, así quedara impecable, no es tan efectivo en la plancha protectora del trackpad.
Thank you for the great tutorial, the iFixit battery and tools worked wonderfully.
I risked it and removed the battery without removing any of the components. I did remove the SSD, just in case. I can report great success although you have to be careful and not poor the glue remover like a maniac, I'm not liable if you fubar your MBP.
I ended up using about 20% of the remover liquid, 85% of which was used after the battery was removed, to remove the $&#@ glue… I used a sharp and flexible knife for the leftover glue.
I recommend pouring a few drops on the plastic card while you have it tucked under the battery, it will slowly melt the glue by capillarity. A few extra drops (3-5) and continue to push the plastic card slowly in a right to left motion.
Since I didn't remove any components, the whole job took about 30 minutes. The battery has to be calibrated, I recommend changing the power settings so it won't go to sleep during the calibration and use all the power it can use until dying…
Good luck
I did the same. I was worried about removing SO MANY components. When I read through it looked like you could just remove the battery, so I just went for that. I imagine the battery removal is easier with the rest out of the way, but this wasn’t too bad at all, and I didn’t have to re-install everything; and I had the peace of mind knowing I wasn’t messing up the rest of my machine.
It appears my new battery needs more adhesive as the battery is a little loose in the case (I can hear it moving when I carry the laptop). What adhesive can I add to the battery to secure it down better?
Hi Jorge
I recommend using a double sided adhesive acrylic foam tape. When you removed the original battery, you might have noticed it was taped with a thin acrylic foam tape, so I’d suggest something similar. They come in all widths and various thickness, though I’d recommend somthing with very little thickness due to small factory tolerances in Apple products.
Best of luck
pleas help….
I’m very worried, will I need to replace the trackpad after this? will the trackpad get broken after all the adhesive remover and the prying?
After the battery fully drained I was unable to start up the machine again. Pressing the power button or simply plugging in the charger would result in the fans quickly cycling between on and off but nothing else happening. Luckily this was resolved by unplugging the battery connector from the logic board for a few seconds. Hope this helps someone.
Hi! I need some help with a problem.
I replaced the battery and turned the MacBook back ON plugged to the power chord and everything worked fine. “About this Mac / System Report” shows “Normal Status”, “1 cycle” and “Installed Battery”.
The problem is that the moment I unplug the Macbook, it turns off automatically.
I tried resetting the SMC but it doesn’t work
Any ideas?
I am also disappointed that i read to late that I can skip steps 5-35 ? I wod expect an info in the text (not in the comments) that is possible to skip the steps and why I should go on to do all the steps. If I read this info at beginning I would also opt in to skip this steps because the risk to destroy some connectors is very high
:/
I hope I can resemble now all parts without demage
This whole experience was nightmarish, the sent me the wrong part for the audio jack. After I installed the battery I booted up. The left speaker sounded like it was blown out and the right speaker was barely audible. I decided to shut it down and reset the SMC. Now it won’t boot up at all. The mag safe is orange so I know it’s charging. Anybody have any advice?
I have one of these macs with a dying battery. Two years ago I removed the glued in battery of a 13” macbook pro 2013/2014? without using solvent at all but instead using one of ifixit’s microwave heated heat bags applied to the keyboard side of the bottom case. Worked absolutely fine. I am also wondering if the motherboard removal is really necessary except as a precaution against solvent damage? So no solvent no need to remove? It would be useful to have ifixit’s ‘official’ view on this, there may be other reasons I am not aware of. The other concern is that in the case of the 13” the new battery began to fail after about 18 months so the repair was of rather marginal quality.
IsidoreM
Hallo
Ich habe die Akkus ohne den Klebstoffentferner mit einem scharfen dünnen Spachtel abgelöst. Es erfordert entsprechendes Fingerspitzengefühl. Nach 5 Min waren alle Akkus aus dem Gehäuse entfernt. Kein Klebstoffentferner und keine langen Wartezeiten. Die Entfernung vom Restklebstoff auf dem Gehäuse habe ich mit Fingernagellack durchgeführt.
You don't really need all the steps and remove all the parts. I found youtube videos with instructions how to just unplug the battery and remove 2 screws and then use a dental floss to carefully remove the batteries without the liquid solution. I tested the new battery before I glued it in and it worked. After I screwed back everything and put the macbook to charge I noticed after few hours that the light indicator is still orange. Checking the battery status I noticed it is at 0% and unplugging the charger resulted in laptop turning off immediately. It looks like that charging the battery actually emptied it completely or something. Any ideas from anyone?
This glue cleanup process requires a ridiculous amount of time. I made better progress with scraping away the old glue tape using the ifixix "opener tool" which has essentially a "finger nail" on the end, which can be used to scrape with vigour without damaging the aluminium chasis. A lot of glue remover was also required, plus isopropyl acohol. This is the least fun part of the battery replacement process, but necessary to ensure the new battery can be secured using the new glue tape on the battery pack.
Hello,
I managed to go through all the steps and install the new battery. It seems to work perfectly but my computer got extremely slow and seems to have loads of issues such as trackpad failure, extremely long keyboard response, and overall abnormally slow functioning… a bit as if there were no RAM anymore. I tried to open it again and checked all the connectors but nothing seems to be unplugged. I also tried the SMC resetting and all sorts of shortcuts but I can’t even access to either disk utility or Apple diagnosis as the whole system is too slow. Does anyone have any idea of what could be the cause of all of this and how could I fix it ? Thanks very much for help !
I think WD-40 is best to remove the adhesive after the battery is out. Some people said they use it instead of the solvent. Also I saw on a youtube video that its best to use a syringe and measure the adhesive remover (2.5 ml per battery section or 5.0 ml max per section if you apply more than once). If that makes sense. That helped a lot to measure the application of the adhesive remover
An even better way is to use an "Xacto" knife with a #11 blade. It's a flat blade, perpendicular to the handle, and makes clean, short work of removing the remnants of the tape!
jiclark -
Great tutorial... but I was able to skip straight from Step 4 to Step 36 (with a brief stop at Step 18 to remove the SSD - just in case). I was removing a heavily swollen battery pack and opted to just carefully and methodically use a thin plastic card to push through the adhesive. No chemicals used at all, and the pack was removed fully intact with no damage.
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Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenbauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Bringe deinen Elektromüll zu einem zugelassenen Entsorger.
Hat die Reparatur nicht den gewünschten Erfolg gebracht? Versuche es mit einigen
grundsätzlichen Ratschlägen, oder stelle deine Frage in unserem Antworten-Forum.
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenbauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Bringe deinen Elektromüll zu einem zugelassenen Entsorger.
Hat die Reparatur nicht den gewünschten Erfolg gebracht? Versuche es mit einigen
grundsätzlichen Ratschlägen, oder stelle deine Frage in unserem Antworten-Forum.
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60 Kommentare
Going straight for the battery will work, but the solvent will leave cosmetic damage if it touches your speakers (and maybe more than cosmetic damage if there's enough of it). It's pretty tough to get the solvent only under the battery while the speakers are still installed. Removing the logic board allows you to then remove the speakers, and at that point you have a nice clear path to the battery.
Note: Early 2013 Retina Macbook Pro TRACKPAD REPLACEMENT INSTRUCTIONS.
IFixit only has instructions for the 13” early 2013 retina trackpad, not the 15” and they are quite different. You have to remove the battery to replace the trackpad in the 15” retina.
When you remove the battery, you see a brown plate covering the trackpad and a single screw. Do not mess with the screw - that’s just the click adjustment. Simply pry off the plate with the spludger. Then you’ll see six tiny phillips silver screws - undo all of them and then push the touchpad plate out. It was pretty easy to put the new one back in. Then finally test the trackpad clickiness on the corners and middle and adjust the screw until it “feels right”
I found something that works well loosening that glue. Cyanoacrylate UN-CURE. The stuff used to un-glue crazy glue. Readily available on line. Works very fast - <5mins. It’s somewhat scary in that - who knows what it will do if you get it on the speakers - or the motherboard, if you try to replace the battery without removing it (as I did). But the combination of the UN-CURE and a plastic spudger - and I had the battery(ies) out in about 10 mins. No ill effects. I used regular 91% Isopropyl to get the residue off the case and the plate covering the trackpad because I didn’t want to spread that UN-CURE around, wantonly. Alcohol works - but not nearly as well as UN-CURE. Probably safer.
Does the battery come charged? I’ve put the new battery in and reassembled the computer. I tried to power up the laptop but it won’t start up. Any suggestions would be most helpful. Thanks.
It is starting up but the display is not working. Any suggestions?
My questions now are did I mess up the display? Or the cable? Or the board the cable is connected to?
@briantprairie—The first and easiest thing to check is whether the display cable got reconnected properly. You can also try plugging in an external monitor—if it works, your computer is fine and there’s an issue with your built-in display connection or the display itself.
I replaced my early 2013 model battery without any problem using this technique:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fupkPz55...
I highly recommend it, as you don’t need to remove any electronics and you don’t have to use solvents. My tips are: I used cotton butcher thread instead of aluminum, and wear heavy duty gloves to avoid burning/cutting myself with the thread due to heavy pressure. As indicated in the video, start from the top of each cell, slide side ways and make your way to the bottom of the cell, it cuts the glue nice and easy (but it requires firm and steady pull). The whole operation took ~45 minutes. Ignore comments that battery cell will ignite, if you don’t puncture or pinch the cells nothing bad should happen.
real easy with that method ! the whole process was done under 30 minutes . no solvant, no hassle.
Benoit -
The video doesn’t seem to be aware that the two center battery packs are glued, too. Was there any trouble working around the plastic frame when de-gluing these? And did you have any trouble with the track pad?
I ordered the battery including the fix kit from iFixit. But in the end i decided to also use the technique with the dental floss because it seemed safer than the method with the adhesive remover. I just performed step 1-4 of the iFixit guide and removed the batteries with the dental floss and plastic cards as shown in the video. It took me a bit more than an hour. Anyway thanks iFixit for the guide and the ordered battery also seems to work perfectly fine.
Using a bit of parcel cord about 1mm diameter worked for me - some breakage of the cord but cheap from the corner stationary shop. Couldn’t buy the Ifixit batteries because of no international shipping (seems that surface transport is not considered even to other North American countries). Looking at the photos the battery set that I bought was identical to that sold by Ifixit.
Yeah this worked great for me as well. I ended up using 50lb test braided fishing line and it worked really well! Whole thing was done in about 30-45 mintues!
milne18 -
Get tutorial!!! Tip, look though the guide, get yourself a piece of paper and write down the screw sizes or step and separate them as you take them out. Thought it wasn't going to be worth removing the board but once it was out I can see how it would have been much more difficult to apply the adhesive remover and to get the pry card under the batteries. Step 30 is missing instruction to revive the two screws off of the dc jack.
Well, I did leave the board in place, placed the mbp elevated to make sure the anti-glue did run below the battery away from the board (and foil to protect the screen). Then prying and cutting the tape with the black tool and finished the removal in 15 minutes. First tried the cutting rope method but that did not work out well. FIRST UNCHARGE THE BATTERY! Online browsergames work very well for this :) The battery (ordered via iFixit) worked immediately and was charged 72%. Somehow I think the iFixit toolbox should only contain a curved knife to cut below the battery (by turning it around in circles).
I highly recommend buying a MacBook Pro 15" Retina (Mid 2012-Early 2013) MagSafe 2 DC-In Board with this battery. Mine was so old and dirty that even after cleaning it, my battery would not charge. I finally took it out and cleaned the space between the center pin and the adjacent pins. My new battery is charging correctly now but I don’t think this will last forever. It would have been great to replace this part when my motherboard was out. Now, it’s gonna take me an hour just to replace this silly little part when it fails again.
Everything worked perfectly, thanks for this great tutorial!
Excellent tutorial-very complete. And kit was awesome-everything you need.
My only issue is many of the steps above are unnecessary if you are very careful. You really dont need to remove any parts (see Kim Pro YouTube video).
Also, touchpad backing plate is likely to come off with battery pack, no matter what you do. That’s okay-just remove it slowly and carefully once battery pack is free of laptop.
Finally, use plenty of adhesive remover, tilting top of laptop towards you and away from parts. And LET IT WORK AT LEAST 5-6 minutes (not 2-3 as instructed). Work with dental floss and prying tools.
I recently completed this repair, after disconnecting the battery I dripped a couple drops of adhesive remover behind far right smaller cell, let sit for a min and wiggled the plastic card behind the battery came right up I just kept going without removing anything else, speakers or boards, just be careful when you get to track pad don’t pry just steady pressure and wiggle back and fourth while gently pulling up battery came right up then used razor blade to clean some of the left behind adhesive, new battery set fit right in alighted screw holes glued down plugged in put back on whole repair took less then half an hour.
I have finished this repair by using a thread and NOT removing the motherboard as described here
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fupkPz55...
. The key was to put couple of drops of adhesive remover every couple swings onto the thread. A floss was too weak, so I have used 4 intertwined floss threads . It took me almost 4 hours but I have spent almost an hour working on the first cell without using adhesive remover before I have realized my mistake. I have also spent decent amount of time cleaning the remainers of apple adhesive.
705/5000
I bought the kit to replace the battery of my MBP Early 2013 because the original baterry had exceeded a thousand cycles.
The change was a success. I did not follow all the steps, I just put the solvent in the cells and remove the battery. I cleaned the computer well and put the new one that came in the kit.
Now comes the NEGATIVE part, the new battery only gives me a couple of hours of service. When it is 100% charged, it says that it has four hours, but after that it only lasts two hours working as usual, less than what the previous battery lasted.
I have reset the SMC and I have calibrated the battery twice.
What can be happening? Being new, it marks 88% of the battery's capacity. I'm disappointed with this. I spent a lot of nerves changing the battery for fear of spoiling the computer and the result is not what I expected.
I hate to say it, but that sounds like a defective battery :( If you bought it from iFixit, they’ll generally replace it no problem.
After installing the replacement battery from ifixit on the 2012 Macbook Pro Retina 15inch, I get an X symbol through the battery charge icon, If i plug the power cable in the laptop runs, but as soon as I disconnect the power cable the laptop shuts off. Can you help ? I tried reseting the SMC (Cont+Option+Shift+Power for 10 Sec) but either its not reseting or the battery is defective ? Not sure what to do, I installed the replacement battery exactly as the instructions stated. Please help.
This can sometimes happen if the battery was discharged to very low levels; try leaving it plugged in for a few minutes and see if the problem goes away on its own. If not, the battery may not be connected properly—try re-seating the battery connector and make sure there’s no dust or debris in the socket. If none of that works, you most likely have a defective battery. Hope this helps!
Just wanted to add a comment of thanks to both the creator of this walkthrough but also the commenters above who talked about using wire/fishing line/etc. to remove the batteries. I used this method and saved a considerable amount of time and it saved me from having to disassemble the laptop.
Due to the complexity of the device and number of components, I was really concerned about being able to put everything back together exactly right. Yes, even with the walkthrough. So this gave me some considerable peace of mind.
Did the replacement yesterday evening in about 2,5h. Everything works again as expected!
is very simple with thick fishing wire ….
Thanks for the well tutorial.
Replacement actually worked well. But… after finishing the replacement i opened the lid and the computer started by it self. The battery level was about 85%. I shut the computer down and charged it for 20 hours. After that, the battery level showed only 5%. After shutting down again and doing a SMC reset it showed 2%.
On the command line i did: ioreg -l -w0 , which gave me, beside other things under +-o AppleSmartBattery:
- "CellVoltage" = (3734,3767,3499,0)
- "LegacyBatteryInfo" = {"Amperage"=18446744073709549492,"Flags"=4,"Capacity"=8601,"Current"=171,"Voltage"=11131,"Cycle Count"=1}
The 0 in the list of cell voltages makes me a bit concerned. Does anybody know how many cells the “A1417” battery actually has?
The nominal Voltage of 10.95V does not really fit into my understanding of lithium ion batteries, but it seems to me 10.95V is closer to 3 cells than to 4 cells.
Btw. the notebooks runs now for half an hour or more on still 2% battery level.
Other than that, everything still seems to work fine.
@michmg Not normal. If you haven’t already, try a full calibration just to be sure—and if it doesn’t behave after that, I’d try another battery.
@Jeff Thanks for the reply. I already did reach out to iFixit Europe. They suggested a similar procedure, including a SMC-Reset. After that, they suggested i should do 20 more cycles and see if the battery will become good. If not, they agree to replace it.
mich -
My new iFixit Battery doesn’t stick at the inner bottom case. I had cleaned the surface very well with your adhesive remover and dry it before I apply the battery with the sticker. Now the battery rattles inside the Macbook when I carry it around! I have a little fear about that the battery could get a short and begins to burn or explode some day.
Thanks for this guide! Went a few steps further and replaced a broken trackpad as well. Was going to replace the keyboard but found out after buying it that it is insane to do with 101 rivets and then a need to find the 101 compatible screws, etc… Going to return the keyboard and keep bluetoothing one. After getting the battery and trackpad to function normally, I am not replacing the top case and doing all that work over again. I should have done more research before rushing to add the keyboard to my order without checking for a guide first. The trackpad was a little tricky without a guide; as the backplate is glued on but I got it off using the spudger and adhesive removal. After that, it’s a breeze to replace. My old battery (over 7 years now) was really swollen and my fans were full of 7 years of dust. They used to run constantly. Haven’t kicked on once yet and been back working all apps for an hour. Very satisfied with this repair!
En démarrant le remplacement et au fur et à mesure du processus du démontage, je me suis dit que mon laptop vivait ses dernières heures… Puis, à force de patience et en suivant méticuleusement ce tutoriel magnifiquement réalisé (tout est précisé, indiqué, documenté), j’ai remonté pièce par pièce mon ordinateur et au bout de plusieurs heures, ma machine fonctionne impeccablement avec une nouvelle batterie! Merci pour ce tutoriel ! P.S.: le kit d’outils spécialement dédiés à la réparation est vraiment très très utile, heureux de l’avoir pris avec !
The last picture shows a hand peeling duble faced tape from the MacBook top case with the logic board and speakers in place. How come? Is it possible to remove the battery without removing the LB and speakers and it is done just not to damage both with the adhesive remover, or.. what?
My question was answered in 2017, now I see. Well it’s a macho approach (laughs). I will prefer to remove everything instead.
I used dental floss and it worked like a charm. It ripped some times, but only until I found out that there’s actually not much force needed when you move the string continuously while pulling.
I’d also recommend some kind of gloves. I used standard gloves used for mechanical repairs with that nice rubbery coating.
TIP FOR PROTECTING THE SPEAKERS:
I used some toilet paper to protect the speakers from the adhesive remover. I used the blue spudger (the black one I found a little to thick) that comes with the repair-kit for this repair to get single folded sheets of toilet paper jammed underneath the plastic of the speaker. Loosening the screws of the speakers a little bit helps a lot to get between the plastic and the aluminum and if you tighten them again the toilet paper will be jammed really nicely and the rest of the sheets cover all the plastic. If you’re then very gentle with the adhesive remover, nothing should happen.
calibrating my battery now. Seems to run perfectly fine :)
thx to the comments and iFixIt!
im having a bit of an issue since the repair, although the repair itself was successful. one issue i had was that i forgot to clamp down the retaining clip on the keyboard ribbon so only parts of my keyboard worked sometimes. i fixed that. but now i have an issue with my display im not sure how to fix. i can only describe it as text book glitchy. every now and then randomly it will kinda flash across itself so i have two images of the same screen at once. if i go dual monitor i dont have an issue on the other monitor. hard to explain that one. you can also see little dots on the screen that are flashing like an old tv after you shut it off. the display problem almost seems to be getting less bad and i wonder if its just settling in or something… but idk i might have messed something up during reassembly or something
very good tutorial though. very clear and concise.
Nice guide, I too didn’t remove the Logic Board nor did I use any solvent as the Canadian iFixit only sold the battery and not the kit. Used an old credit card and dental floss. What would have been great was a photo showing where the adhesive was. I realised afterwards that the replacement battery has the same adhesive so should have looked there.
Just took things slowly and was extra careful by the keyboard ribbon cable and when pulling the cells up that are attached to the trackpad backing. Basically sawed with the credit card to remove without damage to trackpad.
Took under 30mins.
Then it was just a slow methodical process of scraping off old glue and cleaning with isopropyl. That bit took a good 90minutes :)
Currently discharging to calibrate but I too am seeing an odd CellVoltage from: ioreg -l -w0 | grep CellVoltage
- "CellVoltage" = (3734,3767,3499,0)
Will complete recalibration before getting worried.
Battery fully calibrated showing 6hrs of usage and yesterday that is about what it took to flatten (not using it just letting it sit screen on.)
Cell voltage report still seems odd as above but if things are working then does that last 0 matter?
"CellVoltage" = (4140,4167,4150,0)
Response from support gave a good link. the 0 looks to be expected:
In this case, I believe that is is normal for there to be a '0' in this field. Here (https://apple.stackexchange.com/question...) is some information about the values that are being provided. It appears that user also has a '0' in the fourth field.
I bought this battery replacement. I found a YouTube video that gave a little easier method that was just as effective and I am very happy with the battery. It fit exactly as it should. The solvent made the process of removing the ballooning battery much easier. I am using the MacBook Pro to write this review!
Yoo i got my battery with the repair tools, let me tell you, i got that done no problem! works amazing, my battery is charging and the service alert is no longer there. im so freaking happy! I would recommend this website to everyone! - Carlos C. from Miami, FL April, 2021
Its difficult but not insurmountable. I found these instructions hard to follow. I prefer a video over too much text / image. Here is a great YouTube resource I used which goes through disassembly (as described in this instruction) as well as re-assembly of it back again. I am glad I used the YouTube video instead of this instruction. I am disappointed on iFixIt guide that tells you, “Reverse the steps of disassembly” at the end of the instruction. That is absolutely wrong and useless. Great Resource on YouTube: https://youtu.be/dvz5K2TXhXM
Hey there guys. Don’t follow this guide until about Step 42. Buy the kit mostly just for a quality battery and the plastic cards, and tools for other jobs. (Safety goggles too for other jobs). Also order some 99% alcohol as well from MG chemicals. When the kit arrives set everything but the tweezers and plastic cards aside. If allergic to alcohol, then use gloves and goggles. Take the bottle of 99% alch, (should be a tall white bottle) and unscrew the cap, poke two small holes in the top silver cover. Use the cap as a bowl and pour some in. Observing the lifts you do in the steps, take card and insert it on edge as shown. Use the blunt end of tweezers as a ladle to drip alch down on the card that will go under the battery section. Be patient, the adh. will give way. Repeat many times. 99% Alch does NOT damage plastic, no need for first 40 steps. Doesn’t damage electronics either, just make sure it’s evapped before installing new battery and/or turning on. Adh. pattern pics in Rossman’s Discord.
Hi, thanks a lot for this guide. I bought a new battery last year december and since I had this guide here in mind I needed a lot of motivation to finally do it…
So I started with step 1 and went until step 4. Afterwards I didn’t get why I should do all the steps from 6 - 34 because I simply wanted to remove the battery and jumped to step 35. It was very easy to remove the old battery since I already had a replacement battery in my Mac (probably from the owner before). There was no necessity to use the adhesive remover and the replacement was done in a few minutes.
So finally I don’t get why the whole process is ranked as “difficult”. There are 12 screws to be removed and then the removal of the battery, I would say this is “easy”.
Parfait, tout c’est bien passé .Il faut compter 4 heures pour le remplacement de la batterie. Merci pour votre aide ; Super Tutoriel.
I read all the commentary on how difficult this repair was, and also read the people who did not do steps 5-25, which essentially takes out most of the computer including the motherboard. I am no pro, and I bypassed steps 5-35, and it was a breeze. If the acetone worked faster, I would have been done in less than 20 minutes. Taking out the motherboard is such an extreme risk, given screws, parts, delicate boards etc, that I would never ever do that. Just remove the battery directly and bypass all of the aforementioned. I would suggest the following: make sure when you use the acetone, that the laptop is tilted, and tilted also away from the internal components such that any excess acetone moves towards the computer front; be careful when removing the center batteries as the trackpad ribbon is there and very delicate; I found that using 5-6 drops on each battery, waiting three minutes, using the card to get slightly under it, then adding another 5 drops, waiting another 2-3 minutes, works best.
Amazing guide! Perfectly elaborated step by step. My MBP was suffering from a severe case of swollen battery, I was very afraid as a matter of fact during the replacement process, but followed this guide to the dot and now my MBP is back in the game, 9 years and running :) Thanks iFixit and kudos to Jeff for his work.
Thanks for this guide. I replaced battery but removed the battery with a waxed wire. The kit was very useful since I also removed the main board and resoldered the Vcore GPU due to cracked solder joints (intermittent black screen). Cleaned the dusty fans and interior. I now have a new computer!
I need to admit that my 72 year old arthritic hands mandated I should jump to #34 & #50, as other posters recommended. This worked with careful attention. I appreciate iFixit's caution in applying the solvent, but WAS able to bypass those steps. This is my second replacement battery (5 yrs, current), so I had some experience
Am I missing something? I just removed the battery only unscrewing the battery screws and the speakers screws. Then I just removed the battery. That part was not easy as we all know due it being glued down, but I managed. The battery came out and I did not have to do any of the other million steps.
I had to remove mine because my mac was getting really hot and I wanted to clean the fans. When I opened it up the battery was swollen!
So I HAD to take it out. I don't even have a spare battery. I'm typing this from my mac running without battery (thank God that's possible).
I'm ordering a battery now and as it seems I'll just pop it back in with only those few steps.
Here's a tip when installing your new battery, make sure to align the two screw holes at the top first and then press it down firmly or else you'll have to fish your new battery and realign it like I had to 😂
To remove the back panel there are two different pentalobe screws 2.3mm and 3mm however on the tools list there is only one screwdriver. Will I be able to remove both screws with the same screwdriver?
lantzero - Antwort
The 2.0 and 2.3 mm measurements are screw lengths, the screw heads are the same sized P5 pentalobe heads. We include the screw lengths so you don't put the wrong screws in the wrong places and end up with screw heads poking out of your device. Hope that clears up some confusion =)
Sam Goldheart -
Yes the same screwdriver will remove both screws, the difference in screws I believe is the length and width but the head is the same.
Mike -
Just be careful to store the 2 shorter screws in a seperate space then the other 3mm screws.
The first time I opened up my Macbook, I put the screws in the wrong order.
Shahzad Arif -
Woohoo, much easier than I thought... Just got confused with the bottom case screw driver but after figure out it was P5 then everything went smooth.... One thing I wanted to upgrade was the wifi to ac and got one on ebay!
didierma - Antwort
If you have 54 Bit Driver kit, please use Star 5 driver to remove screw for rMBP 2012 Late
iyeori - Antwort
It took about 40 minutes due to an extreme measure of caution but I did it! The only real difficulty was reattaching the screen to the base (yes you have to pry the hinges open) and re-connecting the camera wires. After a few tries the camera wires finally came together. I'm hating Apple for all it's frailty and magical screws but I love ifixit!
floyd - Antwort
Simple guide, but it solved my problem. Was wondering why the top two screws weren't going all the way down. Hadn't realized they were 0.7mm shorter.
Emilio Mejia - Antwort
I have BootCamp running Win7 on my MBPwRetina15" 2013'Late. I run Visual Studio to build and run my Company's Application which is very CPU & NVidia (specific) intensive. So much so that during a build & run of app I was averaging about 85~95+Celcius!!! And every so often would reach 100Celcius!!! I could not take it anymore so I decided to delve into and re-apply Thermal Paste on the CPU/GPU. I ended up going with CooLaboratory Liquid Pro instead of the traditonal AS5. The original Thermal Paste was pure garbage,,, part of the CPU seemed like it was missing TP. I was scared to do this but it turned out easier than I had imagined. I am currently building the same application and can already observe that the temps average about 75~85 and once in a while will reach 90Celcius. So I am seeing about a 10~15 degree drop in Temps and that makes me very happy!
Alvaro Suarez - Antwort
Nice to hear that, i was looking for that kind of information. I have a MBPwRetina 15 Mid 2012 and looking to obtain the best performance!
Jose David Valle -
Woa! Thanks dude! And you follow some guides here for the thermal paste? My mac 15’’ early 2013 heats up a lot but I’m a bit worried about touching anything
Bert0ld0 -
Much easier than expected. Sounds like several people had trouble with the backlight. It is possible that they damaged something by not first making sure to power down the computer completely with the “Shut Down” command. This should be step 1 before removing the back cover screws. Also as noted all the back cover screws are Apple Pentelope #5 bit, but 2 of the screws are shorter than the others. This bit is is hard to find in most stores. Buy it on line along with the Tork #5 and #8. 11/21/2017
Walt Goede - Antwort
Not sure if this has been listed.
PRO TIPS from a non-pro:
1 - Keep screws separated and labeled by step # and size.
2 - Be very careful to get screws in properly threaded, its VERY easy to strip the ccrew holes and screws. Especially the case. Not that it happened to me…
3 - It was impossible for me to get all the adhesive off the case from under battery, it left a lot on w/o issue (yet).
4 - Make sure you have Aluminium Foil before starting!
5 - Upgrade the SSD or HDD while your in there!
erin - Antwort
Do we remove the logic board purely to get the speaker enclosures out and away from the acetone? Or does it physically block getting the batteries out? Ie. if I wanted to risk the damage to the speakers, could I jump straight to step 34?
Obviously I don’t want to melt the speakers, but I’m kinda weighing that risk against losing a screw or breaking a connector…
Michael Ferenduros - Antwort
So I did take the risk and swapped out the battery without doing the logic-board + speaker removal.
Before applying the acetone I put tape on the exposed sides of the speaker-enclosures as best I could - I wrapped the tape, sticky side out, around a card, slid it into the gap, and pressed it onto the speakers. And when applying the acetone, I squirted it as gently as possible onto the side of the battery and let it run down the side, which seemed to help avoid getting too much on the speakers.
The speaker’s plastic turned white in the spots where the acetone touched it, but it looked like surface damage only. Otherwise it was a nice and smooth procedure.
Your milage may vary, obviously.
Michael Ferenduros -
I changed the battery pack as well without removing the logic board etc. It helped, that the batteries already were swollen, thus access to the glue stripes was easier. It works, if you give a little tension, pulling a pack upwards, and then work with a small blade or knife, and cut the glue stripes. It may take a while, but much less time than dismantling the whole macbook. If you don’t hurry, and don’t apply too much force, you will not damage anything. Beside the 10 cover screws you only have to loose 2 screws for the battery connector. After removing the old pack I used Methanol to remove the glue. I prefer this solvent to Acetone, because it’s less or not harmful to plastic (however, no warranty, just my personal experience). I was able to finish the work in 40 minutes, although it was the first time I opened my Macbook. Well, I am an engineer, that helps, but with dismantling all boards it definitely would have taken double the time. And more risks to break a plug or make a mistake while reassembling.
Heinrich Jung -
Success. I needed to replace the right speaker. I thought I was ready at step 22 (you are able to replace the left speaker at this point… but but the right) To replace the right I continued thru step 29 but didn’t completely remove the motherboard. I just lifted it enough to remove and replace the right speaker cable.
Read all of the comments and solved many problems. Thanks to I-fixit, Walter Galen and all who posted comments.
Will Brecht - 03/02/2019
Will Brecht - Antwort
1/2
If you're taking the shortcut (nylon, wire…and no adhesive for battery removal (you'll def need to remove the adhesive once the battery pack is removed) things to note:
1 The adhesive may still be pretty strong. Mine was and I broke several wires trying to do the cheese cutter move down the back of the middle two batteries
2 if you're cheese cutting through the adhesive, when you get to the base, don't go too far. I did and severed the battery cell connector… disconcerting puff of smoke.
Ruairi Kennedy - Antwort
If you get a puff of smoke removing a bad battery which is going to be replaced it really doesn’t matter, its being replaced.
robert -
2/2
3 the you tube video dude was lucky not to have his two Central batteries adhered . Mine were stuck fast.
4 don't forget about the two small T 5 screws to the left and right of the battery head board, just below the main battery connector.
5 the Track Pad sits behind the two central batteries. The batteries are adhered to a flat plate that protects the Track Pad which is pretty resilient. You can do the cheese wire trick without cutting through anything you shouldn't. However be careful if you're using a spudger or other tool between the two centre batteries at the top of the T. This is where the Track Pad connector (its very flat and exposed) to the motherboard.
6 seems obvious when it's written , but you will need the adhesive remover if you are interested in removing the adhesive. It's a work out.
Ruairi Kennedy - Antwort
I just completed this successfully. The guide was great, and I recommend reading each of the steps’ comments, too. It is possible to cut out a majority of the steps outlined here if you’d rather not dismantle most of your laptop. As I’m a novice and this was the first difficult fix I’d ever tried, the idea of taking so many things apart — including removing the logic board — was a little scary. Everyone calculates risk and reward differently, but for me, the risk of removing the logic board for the reward of being able to remove the battery packs with adhesive remover was too great, so I opted to only do steps 1–4, 42–53 and removed the battery with one of the cards from iFixit’s kit. If you go this route, expect it to be a little frustrating & slow going — it took me around 20–30 minutes of slowly chipping away at the adhesive with only the card. There are other techniques out there (wire, fishing line, etc.) and I’d advise looking into them. Keep track of screws: tape, draw out diagrams, label them, etc.
Jake Thornberry - Antwort
I only removed the 10 screws and the back panel, the 5 speaker’s screws (without removing the speakers), and the two battery screws, and managed to remove the battery package without undoing anything else. I used a member card (credit card type) to loosen the adhesives under the batteries.
To remove the rest of the glue, I soaked it with something called Label Off from Biltema (Nordic). Finally, I used methylated spirit (rødsprit) to clean it all up and let it dry for 5 minutes before assembling the new battery pack.
Andreas H. Parlow - Antwort
I have now replaced the battery and the dc-in board, and I still can’t get the battery to charge. I also bought a new magsafe power adapter. It appears all cables are connected, and the computer runs fine on the battery (until it runs out of juice, then I will be at a complete loss). No clue what to try next. Any suggestions? Thanks!
matt rogers - Antwort
Why do you need to remove the entire logic board??? Seems like if you detach the appropriate cables, remove the speakers, that that should be enough. Removing the entire board doesn’t seem necessary - what am I missing?
Sandwah - Antwort
What on earth are you talking about? This has nothing to do with the logic board.
Trevor Picard -
The speaker cables are routed under the logic board, or at least the right-side one is. I found that if you can undo the fastenings on one side of the logic board you MIGHT be able to lever it up and work the speaker wire out without taking the entire thing out.
bobthrollop.redirect -
MacBook Pro 15“ 2014:
if the keyboard is connected nothing works. I disconnected the keyboard and the MacBook was starting automatically. An external usb keyboard is not working either. Is something on the logic board defective or is this failure (usb keyboard not working) because of the disconnected keyboard and the system is confused?
any idea for this?
ps: the battery is loading
Pättes - Antwort
MacBook Pro 15” Mid 2012
I had the exact same symptom upon initial completion. The keyboard ribbon is actually 2 pieces on mine. There is a plastic cover sheet (that I tried to use as the ribbon the first time) and then there is the actual ribbon sheet. The keyboard works perfectly now that I have the actual ribbon sheet inserted into the the ZIF connector.
It took entirely too long. I was being very careful. Recovery of the keyboard took me less than an hour. I don’t want to admit how long the original work took me.
I hope you already have yours working. I was very careful due to not having an alternate device for my son to use if the work had failed. The other likely point of failure for the keyboard is damage to the ribbon as it goes under the battery pack. I caught myself almost poking too hard on that spot.
EEM -
You should more clear explain that it is possible to skip the steps 5-35 in the beginning explanation text.
( I lost many time to remove parts and there is also more risk to destroy some connectors ?♂️)
Muescha - Antwort
Like many others here, I completed the battery replacement by skipping steps 5-52 and instead removing the battery cells with the “cheese cutter” method. I made my cutter from 20# braided monofilament tied to two 4” wooden dowels (3/8” diameter). I carefully applied 97% isopropyl alcohol to the taut mono with a small artist’s brush. I took my sweet time cutting through the glue, but all in all not too difficult, just tedious. I was super careful and mindful of the fire and explosion hazard, and took necessary precautions. One thing to be careful of using the cheese cutter method is to be sure the mono is is really under the cell package and not just in front of it before sawing away. There are some tight spaces that make this tricky. Once the battery was out I used the iFixit acetone to clean up the glue leftover by carefully applying drops on the strips and letting capillary action take over. After waiting about five minutes, the glue strips could be picked up with the supplied tweezers.
Acme Nerd Games - Antwort
Hallo Leute, hab das Akku eben erfolgreich bei meinem MacBook getauscht ohne alles vorher auszubauen. WICHTIG: kein ACETON zum Kleber lösen verwenden! Sonst gehen die Lautsprecher kaputt! Auch kein Orangenpower oder ähnliches! Man nehme sich ein dünnes hochzugfestes Nylonband (oder Zahnseide geht auch) und schneide damit die alten Klebepads sägebandmäßig los.
Also:
In der Hoffnung mich so klar wie möglich auszudrücken war das Folgende meine Vorgehensweise:
1. Deckel ab, Achtung die Schrauben mittig unterm Bildschirm sind kürzer!
2. Akkustecker trennen und vorsichtig umbiegen
3. die 2 Schrauben, die die Batterie in der Nähe des Steckers halten losschrauben
4. nun mit zugfestem Band die Akkus rausschneiden
die im Fix-Kit beigelegten Spatel können dabei unterstützen
die übrigbleibenden Klebereste können einfach mit einem der Plastikwerkzeuge abgemacht werden: erst ein bisschen mit einem Spatel vorarbeiten, sodass man es mit seinen Fingen greifen kann, dann langsam und Richtung weg vom Logikboard vorsichtig abziehen.
Jérôme Achilles - Antwort
Was dann noch an Kleberesten übrigbleibt, kann wegen mir auch bleiben. Sonst mit 1-2 Tropfen Lösemittel auf ein Microfasertuch geduldig nach und nach wegwischen. Und Wirklich nur WENIGE TROPFEN verwenden! Sonst gehen die Lautsprecher wohlmöglich kaputt.
5. Mithilfe von Druckluft (2-3 bar! nur) nun sämtlichen Staub vorsichtig rausblasen. VORSICHT: Die Lüfter dürfen sich dabei nicht drehen! Die erzeugen sonst Spannung und grillen wohlmöglich das Logikboard!
6. Neues Akku (Folien dabei vom Akku entfernen) reinsetzen und gleich an die Schraubenlöcher ausrichten.
7. Die 2 Schrauben für die Batterie reinschrauben und mit Gefühl anziehen.
Die packs einzeln auf ihren richtigen Sitz hin prüfen
8. Wenn alles sauber ist und alles richtig sitzt, dann den Batteriestecker wieder auf das Logikboard stecken
9. Deckel drauf. Der Deckel muss von alleine, ohne Schrauben richtig in seiner Ausfräsung liegen. Steht irgendeine Ecke hoch, ist darunter was verkehrt.
Jérôme Achilles - Antwort
10. Deckel festschrauben. ACHTUNG: 2 Schrauben sind kürzer auf der Seite des Bildschirms!
Missverständnisse kann ich nicht ausschließen. Darum folgt ihr dieser Anleitung bitte nur auf eigenes Risiko. Ich übernehme keine Haftung für Schäden! Viel Erfolg!
Jérôme Achilles - Antwort
Hi guys, just successfully replaced the battery on my MacBook without removing everything first. IMPORTANT: do not use ACETON to loosen the glue! Otherwise, the speakers will be broken! Also no orange power or similar! Take a thin high-tensile nylon tape (or dental floss also works) and cut the old adhesive pads loose. Similarly as with a saw tape.
So:
Hoping to express myself as clearly as possible, the following was my procedure:
1. remove the lid, beware that the screws in the center under the screen are shorter!
2. disconnect the battery connector and carefully bend it over
3. unscrew the 2 screws that hold the battery near the plug
4. now cut out the batteries with tension-proof tape
the spatulas included in the fix-kit can help you to do this
the remaining glue can be easily removed with one of the plastic tools: first work a little bit with a spatula so that you can grip it with your fingers, then slowly and carefully pull it off in a direction away from the logic board.
Jérôme Achilles - Antwort
Whatever glue remains can stay because of me. Otherwise, patiently wipe away little by little with 1-2 drops of solvent on a microfiber cloth. And really only use FEW DROPS! Otherwise, the speakers may break.
Now carefully blow out all dust with compressed air (2-3 bar! only). CAUTION: The fans must not rotate! Otherwise, they will generate voltage and possibly fry the logic board!
Insert the new battery ( thereby remove the foils from the battery) and align it to the screw holes. 7.
Screw in the 2 screws for the battery and tighten them with feeling.
Check the packs individually for proper fit
8. if everything is clean and everything fits correctly, put the battery connector back on the logic board.
9. put the lid on. The cover must lie correctly in its groove by itself, without screws. If any corner is sticking up, there is something wrong underneath.
Jérôme Achilles - Antwort
10. screw the cover. ATTENTION: 2 screws are shorter on the side of the screen!
I cannot exclude misunderstandings. Therefore, please follow these instructions only at your own risk. I assume no liability for damages! Good luck!
Jérôme Achilles - Antwort
Another vote for skipping step 34 after step 4. When I tried to reinstall the new battery, I couldn't get the two step 34 screw holes lined up and still be able to connect the battery cable, so I just left them out. Also, one of the bottom cover screws went AWOL.
I think that anyone with a badly swollen battery can skip to 34 because the battery has already done a lot of the work. I doubt that I used more than a dozen drops of remover, if that. A bit of patience and careful work with dental floss did the trick. Maybe 30-40 minutes to get the old battery out and another 10 to peel off the remaining adhesive.
schendel - Antwort
Like most have suggested here, definitely read through all of these comments! I learned valuable tips from other commenters above that made this repair easy. Also like many others here, I opted to skips the majority of steps, and instead focused on steps 1-4, 36-53. When removing the small screws from the back plate, make sure to keep them organized and away from the computer. Because they are slightly magnetic, one of the tiny top middle screws magnetized to the MagSafe charger port my my Mac and I spent 20 minutes thinking it fell on the floor.
I had a nylon thread handy to get some of the packs started. Even with applying the adhesive remover, I found the plastic card iFixit provides was not always strong enough to get the pack started. Cheese cutter method was all it needed to get started!
Make sure to elevate your Mac when applying the remover in whatever direction you want the remover to run. Make sure to test new battery before committing to the new adhesive in case it is faulty!
Good luck!
Patrick King - Antwort
At step 9, when reinstalling the io board cable, make sure it is the correct way round as in the photo, it fits the wrong way round as well, which results in the MacBook not starting at all. It took me hours to find my mistake...
Pierre Arnaud - Antwort
This is just a suggestion or two to help those that might be doing this for the first time.
1. Separate your screws by the component they came from, i.e. cover screws altogether, fan screws altogether etc. I used PostIt notes turned upside down and put the screws head down to hold them in place and then marked what they were and where they came from.
2. If you have enough work space put the component next to the screws that were removed. Then you have everything located for an easy reinstall.
Steve Rowe - Antwort
The photographs in this guide show two slightly different MacBook Pro 15" Retina machines being disassembled, probably because the guide has multiple authors, and there is a subtle but very important difference between them. Look at the photo in Step 55. This shows the old battery being lifted out of the machine, it has six cells, and the battery connector is located in the centre of the top edge of the battery between cells 3 and 4. Now look at the photo in Step 3. This shows a battery connector which is offset by about 3cm and is above cell 4, not between cells 3 and 4. I believe the offset battery connector is from a mid 2012-early 2013 MacBook and the central battery connector is from a late 2013-mid 2014 MacBook. This is important because if you have the wrong battery, it won't work because the connector won't reach the socket. I found this out to my cost when I bought a battery which the seller told me was the right one, it turned out to be the wrong one, and then I couldn't return it.
Peter Gray - Antwort