Sony DualSense Controller Akku ersetzen
Einleitung
Zu Schritt 1 der AnleitungFolge dieser Anleitung, um den Akku im DualSense Controller für die Sony PlayStation 5 zu ersetzen.
Bitte beachten: Diese Anleitung ist nur für DualSense Controller mit einer FCC ID Endung mit 1. Prüfe die Rückseite deines Controllers, um deine Modelnummer zu verifizieren. Falls deine mit A endet, wird es Unterschiede im internen Design geben, allerdings kannst du diese Anleitung trotzdem nutzen.
Falls dein Akku aufgebläht ist, musst du entsprechende Vorsichtsmaßnahmen treffen.
Nach Abschluss dieser Anleitung solltest du deinen neu eingebauten Akku kalibrieren.
Was du brauchst
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Stecke ein Plektrum unter die untere rechte Ecke der Abdeckung, um die Clips zu lösen, mit denen sie befestigt ist.
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Schiebe das Plektrum an der unteren rechten Kante entlang, um die Clips zu lösen, die die Abdeckung festhalten.
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Stecke ein Plektrum unter die untere linke Ecke der Abdeckung, um die Clips zu lösen, mit denen sie befestigt ist.
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Schiebe das Plektrum an der unteren linken Kante entlang, um die Clips zu lösen, die die Abdeckung festhalten.
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Hebe die Abdeckung mit deinen Fingern an der unteren Kante an, um die restlichen Clips zu lösen.
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Hebe die Abdeckung über die Joysticks, um sie zu entfernen.
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Fasse den Kontroller mit einer Hand und halte den linken Auslöser mit dem Daumen gedrückt.
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Setze das flache Ende des Spudgers mit der anderen Hand zwischen die L1 und L2 Tasten ein.
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Heble die L1 Taste mit dem Spudger behutsam vom Kontroller weg, halte dabei den Finger darüber, damit die Taste nicht davonspringen kann.
Tried prying from the front of the buttons as pictured and my spudger broke off in the gap. A video I watched showed them being pried off from the back (between the R1/R2 and L1/L2 buttons) which seemed much easier.
Agree with Lora's comment above. I was able to use an old credit card to take L1/R1 out this way. I pressed down the L2/R2 button to create space to work in, then came in from between L1/L2 and R1/R2. It's easy to pop one of the outer corners first then you can work the credit card around the top and the rest falls out.
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Wiederhole den vorherigen Schritt für die R1 Taste.
What I didn't see addressed anywhere (here or in other similar articles) is that replacement R1 / L1 buttons can be differ enough to be un-usable depending on which model your ps5 controller is. The ones I ordered don't fit and now I can't find a way to be sure I get the right ones because few know there's even a difference.
Did you already figured it out? The version the we need yo use?, We are in the same situation here.
Tried prying from the front of the buttons as pictured and my spudger broke off in the gap. A video I watched showed them being pried off from the back (between the R1/R2 and L1/L2 buttons) which seemed much easier.
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Entferne die beiden 6,4 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben, die die unteren Enden des Gehäuseunterteils fixieren.
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Löse die beiden Clips links und rechts von der Kopfhörerbuchse mit der Spitze des Spudgers.
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Entferne die beiden 6,4 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben, die die unteren Enden des Gehäuseunterteils fixieren.
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Löse die beiden Clips links und rechts von der Kopfhörerbuchse mit der Spitze des Spudgers.
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Entferne das Gehäuseunterteil.
There are four more clips/hooks hidden in the seams along the outer sides of the handles. If you pull open the controller as shown in this step, then you will shear off the two tiny clips which are right next to the R1 and L1 buttons.
Therefore, you should first release those clips by prying the seams open sideways.
I noticed this with the updated design of the controller, not sure whether the hooks are present on the first version.
The hooks are not critical for the integrity of the controller as the two halves are held together by the screws hidden under the buttons. The damage does show that the controller has been taken apart.
Thought I'd clarify: The clips next to the L1 and R1 are on the outer side from the L1 and R1 buttons, I'd suggest zooming in on the picture to see them. They're quite easy to break, but also easy to remove using the plastic spudger along the seam, bending the bottom cover outwards
I am still strugling to find the clips. Could someone point them out in the image with a screen shot or something like that.
I keep getting stuck at this step too with the new DualSense CFI-ZCT1WA revision. The top and bottom shells seem like they are fused together next to L1/R1 but I can't seem to be able to find where these hidden clips are located. My controller is still in warranty so I don't want to break them in case I can't fix my issue.
but also easy to remove using the plastic spudger along the seam, bending the bottom cover outwards
I tried this but it seems that the you need a lot of force and I ended up bending the tip of my spudger. Are you sure it's not the top cover that you need to pry away? The bottom cover has a ridge to make sure it's under the top cover so it's not easy to bend outwards.
@samomio I think there needs to be a step added for these new clips.
Ok, not seeing a lot of motion on this request, so I've uploaded photos of the hooks to imgur.
Here ya go: https://imgur.io/a/7NWmQi5
This guide really needs an update on this. I had a really hard time getting the forward clips to release even after referring to the comments above. Pretty sure I broke them in the end. No big deal but would be great if the iFixit experts could work out a good method for releasing them.
I finally figure it out!!
The hidden clip is very tricky but once you understand how it works it is easy to remove.
Use Sean's picture: https://imgur.io/a/7NWmQi5
What sean is showing, is actually the bottom shell of the seam.
To disassemble
1. Use the flat side of the spudger, pry the bottom seam OUTWARDS near the R1/L1 button hole.
2. (most important) While prying the bottom shell seam outwards, push your thumb on the upper shell and push outward as well (you can do this by applying pressure from the removed R1/L1 button hole towards the seam. And then it will disassemble automatically
And that's it!
updated instruction:
I finally figure it out!!
The hidden clip is very tricky but once you understand how it works it is easy to remove.
Use Sean's picture: https://imgur.io/a/7NWmQi5
What sean is showing, is actually the bottom shell of the seam.
To disassemble
1. Use the flat side of the spudger, pry the bottom seam OUTWARDS near the R1/L1 button hole.
2. (most important) While prying the bottom shell seam outwards, hold your thumb on the upper shell as anchor and then use your other finger to pry the bottom edge of the controller up away from the shell. If you are doing the first step, then don't worry about breaking the clip, just force it open. And then it will disassemble automatically
And that's it!
Yes! Thanks a bunch Penn. That did the trick! Much appreciated
Sean -
I managed to do it just by pulling harder than what I was already doing. And I don't think I broke anything. So, for me at least, the technique described in this guide worked.
The video linked below clearly shows how to open the controllers with the extra clips near the L1/R1 areas.
See a video here by How To X on YouTube... https://youtu.be/djIvRoclr_E?si=dKFpQCZe...
I really struggled with releasing the rest of the back panel (close to the shoulder buttons.) What finally seemed to do the trick for me, was doing both sides at once with upward turning motion of the back panel with the shoulder buttons approximately at the axis. Trying to release just one side and then the other felt impossible without potentially breaking the case.
This was what did it for me
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In diesem Schritt verwendetes Werkzeug:Tweezers$4.99
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Trenne das Akkukabel mit einer Pinzette oder deinen Fingern vom Motherboard.
Tweezers aren't gonna grip that the way you need.
For those having trouble using tweezers to pull out the connector, you can grab below the lip of the connector and use the controller as a lever to pull it up as seen here DualSense Kontroller v2 Akku tauschen
This little trick helped me so much and I believe it should be shown on this guide as well.
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Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, folge den Schritten dieser Anleitung in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Entsorge deinen Elektromüll fachgerecht.
Lief die Reparatur nicht wie geplant? Probiere zunächst einige grundsätzliche Lösungen oder frage in unserem Forum nach Hilfe bei der Fehlersuche.
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, folge den Schritten dieser Anleitung in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Entsorge deinen Elektromüll fachgerecht.
Lief die Reparatur nicht wie geplant? Probiere zunächst einige grundsätzliche Lösungen oder frage in unserem Forum nach Hilfe bei der Fehlersuche.
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11 Kommentare
Is there a better battery that can be used rather than the standard battery? This controller dies so fast that I don’t bother disconnecting it ever. I’m pretty sure that’s bad, but It’s frustrating having it die midgame in my second game.
Yes. You can purchase a 2000mah battery replacement. It’s not much of a difference, but lowering your led settings and controller vibration also works wonders for prolonging the battery life.
@NoLife
If you bridge the pins for the red and white battery wires, the controller will power on properly without a battery. This will be easiest with a soldering iron.
I need a new battery for my Dualsense controller, Sony is saying to just buy a new one while I'm not gonna take broken for a answer. So if anyone knows a reliable site where I can get a battery replacement for my dualsense, do recommend
This!!!! I have been searching for a new OEM battery for so long.
Amazon.com has an immense amount of options for OEM spec battery replacement as well as higher-performing options.
Does anyone know how to shop among the immense amount of options for OEM spec battery replacements that are guaranteed safe, contain safe, reliable battery management systems, and are not counterfeit products? I would love to replace my batteries with true OEM, but that seems to be near impossible to track down. Burning down my house with inferior products is just not an option.
Be careful taking the back cover off, I broke the spring on the right trigger on two different controllers doing this. I'm not really sure how to avoid this given that i looked for clips around where the removed bumpers go, and I still couldn't find them. They still work, though a little loose.
Another device that could have easy access to the battery, made more unnecessarily complicated by poor design, probably intentionally.
