Samsung Galaxy Watch Active2 Akku tauschen
Einleitung
Zu Schritt 1 der AnleitungDiese Anleitung zeigt, wie der Akku in der Samsung Galaxy Watch Active2 ausgetauscht werden kann.
Wenn dein Akku aufgebläht ist, musst du entsprechende Vorsichtsmaßnahmen treffen.
Entlade den Akku aus Sicherheitsgründen unter 25%, bevor du mit der Reparatur anfängst. Das reduziert das Risiko, dass sich der Akku entzündet oder explodiert, falls er versehentlich während der Reparatur beschädigt wird.
Was du brauchst
Ersatzteile
Werkzeuge
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Drücke und halte die untere Taste an der Samsung Galaxy Watch Active2 etwa 3 Sekunden lang, bis sie sich ausschaltet. Du solltest ein kurzes Vibrieren spüren.
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Wenn das "Ausschaltsymbol (Power off)" erscheint, dann drücke auf die Mitte des Displays, bis die Uhr herunterfährt. Diesmal solltest du zur Bestätigung ein längeres Vibrieren erhalten.
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Entferne die vier 4 mm langen Tri-Point-Schrauben Y00 auf der Rückseite der Uhr.
Y1.5 works just as good
Bekomme ich nicht auf … Schrauben zu fest
The screws are attached to the cover. So you just need to loose them, not remove them.
Any tips for a too tight screw ?
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Setze ein Plektrum in der Nähe der Tasten zwischen die Kunststoffrückseite und das Metallgehäuse.
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Drücke das Plektrum hinein, bis sich die Rückseite vom Gehäuse löst.
There is a glue-ish gasket keeping it closed. I used an exacto knife to start it opening.
This was super helpful thank you! Perfect timing
Waarmee kan ik de achterste oplaadplaat weer vast lijmen op de achterste behuizing
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Hebe die Rückseite vorsichtig hoch, um an den Stecker der Sensorgruppe heranzukommen.
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Trenne den Stecker der Sensorgruppe mit einem Spudger vom Motherboard ab.
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Entferne die Rückseite.
Where would you recommend buying a new back panel/charger?
Una pregunta. y para poner el reemplazo sería necesario algún tipo de sellador o silicón?porque pues usualmente este tipo de tapas vienen sellados de fabrica para evitar cualquier posibilidad de que le pudiera entrar agua
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Trenne das Display und den Lautsprecher mit einem Spudger ab.
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Trenne den Luftdrucksensor, die Tasten und das Mikrofon mit dem Spudger ab.
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Setze einen Spudger oben rechts, nahe beim Displaystecker, unter das Motherboard ein.
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Verdrehe und hebe den Spudger ein wenig, um die Haupteinheit zu lösen.
I would not suggest to do so. There are components underneath the motherboard as well. There are none in this specific corner, but the core assembly does not come out that easily and people might try other corners and positions. Rather unscrew the motherboard and remove the battery from the core assembly directly.
Yes! I was unable to remove the motherboard as pictured unless the screw was removed (Step 12). I suggest a re-ordering of steps in this guide.
You have to sort of wiggle it up from all sides and gradually lift out the corner/sides adjacent to the spludger as shown. I took a few minutes doing it carefully, it's fairly snug. Avoid pulling the motherboard out from only one side if you must at your risk.
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Fasse die Haupteinheit behutsam an und schiebe sie unter den Kabeln heraus.
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Entferne die Haupteinheit.
I had to remove that screw on the core assembly using a Phillips 000. When I initially tried lifting, the core assembly started to bend. Mine also has a connector under the core assembly near the thumb in the picture. The connector goes from the underside of the core assembly to the screen/body. It prevents me from removing the core assembly as I'm not sure how it should be removed examining it
This step is really difficult, and I'm still not sure it was necessary. The core assembly is really packed in there, and it took me several attempts, lifting from various corners. Don't pull by the circuit board. It will bend if you're not careful. You've got to get under the core assembly. I had the most luck starting next to the display connector at the top, then moving to the sensor on the other end of the board (barometric sensor), then moving to the speakers on the left, and finally lifting from multiple points once it was out far enough. In really hoping I didn't damage anything.
I think the comments here should be added to the step before.
I would be very careful following Louis Finney's advice above. They are describing detaching the motherboard from the core assembly which also includes the battery and internal frame. Removing the motherboard from the rest of the core assembly exposes a very delicate looking ribbon cable that I nearly tore by trying to remove the screw holding the motherboard in place.
As Karl Arp notes, trying to pry the core assembly up by the motherboard feels like it puts a lot of strain on the circuit board, so it might be necessary to go at it from multiple angles.
Removing the whole core assembly was very difficult, and required a lot more force than I was expecting, and I had the luxury of being able to approach it from both sides, as the screen had already detached from the device (hence the need to repair), and still found it very challenging.I would advise, at a minimum applying mild heat to the metal outer frame to hopefully cause it to expand and give some additional clearance.
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Drehe die Haupteinheit um, so dass das Motherboard nach unten zeigt.
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Löse die obere Taste mit einem Plektrum aus dem Kunststoffrahmen.
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Drehe die 4,4 mm lange Kreuzschlitzschraube heraus, mit der das Motherboard befestigt ist.
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Setze das flache Ende des Spudgers unten rechts nahe der Kupferspule zwischen das Motherboard und den Kunststoffrahmen.
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Verdrehe den Spudger, so dass das Motherboard aus den Kunststofflaschen herauskommt.
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Schiebe das Motherboard unter den restlichen Kunststofflaschen hervor und entferne es.
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Setze das flache Ende des Spudgers zwischen die Unterseite des Akkus und den Hauptrahmen.
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Heble den Akku mit einem Spudger hoch.
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In diesem Schritt verwendetes Werkzeug:Tweezers$4.99
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Greife den Stecker mit einer Pinzette und ziehe ihn langsam aus dem Hauptrahmen heraus.
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Entferne den Akku aus dem Hauptrahmen.
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Befestige den neuen Akku mit vorgetanztemn Klebestreifen oder doppelseitigem Klebeband. Drücke den neuen Akku fest.
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenbauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Damit der neue Akku beste Leistungen bringt, solltest du ihn neu kalibrieren: Lade ihn auf 100% und lasse das Ladegerät mindestens eine weiter Stunde angeschlossen. Benutze dann dein dein Gerät, bis es sich von selbst ausschaltet. Lade es dann ununterbrochen wieder auf 100% auf.
Entsorge deinen Elektromüll fachgerecht.
Die Reparatur verlief nicht wie geplant? Versuche erst einige grundsätzliche Lösungen, ansonsten findest du Hilfe in unserem .
Befestige den neuen Akku mit vorgetanztemn Klebestreifen oder doppelseitigem Klebeband. Drücke den neuen Akku fest.
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenbauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Damit der neue Akku beste Leistungen bringt, solltest du ihn neu kalibrieren: Lade ihn auf 100% und lasse das Ladegerät mindestens eine weiter Stunde angeschlossen. Benutze dann dein dein Gerät, bis es sich von selbst ausschaltet. Lade es dann ununterbrochen wieder auf 100% auf.
Entsorge deinen Elektromüll fachgerecht.
Die Reparatur verlief nicht wie geplant? Versuche erst einige grundsätzliche Lösungen, ansonsten findest du Hilfe in unserem .
Rückgängig: Ich habe diese Anleitung nicht absolviert.
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100%
Diese Übersetzer:innen helfen uns, die Welt zu reparieren! Wie kann ich mithelfen?
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Tobias Isakeit - Repairability Engineer Mitglied von Tobias Isakeit - Repairability Engineer
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18 Kommentare
This is the SAME thing that is happening to me. Went to the beach, on the drive home it died, hasn’t charged since. I set it on the charger and it will say 0%, but never charge enough to power on. I took to best buy and they said I need to buy a new watch :(. Would also like to know if you think it is the battery or if the beach water could have fried the whole thing. I wouldn’t think it would since it occasionally will flash the 0% when try to charge it.
Exact same thing in two separate cases. That's it. 0% flashing sometimes and completely dead. And as it seems nobody but us is posting our sad stories. We need to look further and find something on YouTube or online… there must be something…
I have been looking online and it seems that the battery has lower charge than what is chargeable. And by going deeper it also seems that there is a way to recharge that same battery at least to the point we're it might start again.
Not sure if this might work but worth a try. If the battery is depleted beyond (below) charging status maybe using a weaker charger/wall plug (less Ampere?) will kickstart the battery after a few hours or throughout the night, and then switch to the regular charger. Can’t say for sure if the motherboard was damaged by some salt water getting into the watch. But opening those up is easy for checking on corrosion. Good luck on the diagnosis and hopefully you’ll succeed in restoring charging function.
The same thing happened to me now. After all these years, has anybody at all managed to get the watch 2 back from the dead in this situation?
Finally I found the courage to open it up. What I found was not pretty, traces of salt at several places. In particular, one connector, I guess from the picture of Step 7 the barometric sensor, was completely corroded, no teeth left. So it is time to say goodbye to Watch 2.
So for losses of watches through salt water. Have had any luck finding something about it? In comparision to the problem i had with my gear s3 frontier it sounds similar, but without the salt water. In my watch the battery died, would not charge anymore. So i opend it, replaced the battery and left alone for later. So after putting it back together couple of weeks later, still same problem.
As it turned out, battery died and anlong with it the motherboard. I read something about a firm ware crash later. So anyways, properly the same. After replacing the motherboard and the battery the watch should work again.
Followed these instructions and they were spot on except for the seal that makes the watch waterproof. There were no instructions to remove the bottom without that sticking and it ended up getting streched and not re-useable. I watched a video and they recommended using a heat gun to slightly warm up the bottom to keep from sticking (will try that next time). That video recommended B-7000 to reseal it if needed so I purchased that.
Did you get the battery from ifixit? Did the battery hold about the same charge duration, I believe the original last up to 2 days. It looks like you replaced it about a year ago, does the battery still hold a good charge?
Jack F -
The display on my watch went black. I could still feel the vibrations and was able to check the Galaxy Wearable app on my phone. It got really hot when charging with the watch powered on. I did troubleshooting and after failing all attempts it was recommended I replace the battery. The initial disassembly was difficult but do-able. After disassembling and reassembling 3 times, the watch finally powered on but the display was still black. I let it charge and once it reached full charge the display was working!! Thank you so much for this detailed instructions!! I'm so happy to have my smart watch back!!
Glad we could help you get your watch back to a functioning condition. Congratulations on the repair, keep on fixing stuff :)
This was one of the more easier repairs I've ever done. Luckily the adhesive holding the back cover on wasn't too much of a pain, and the adhesive holding the battery in wasn't bad either. Love this watch and can't see spending $$$ on a new one when the battery was only ~ $40.
Glad you could give your Galaxy Watch a new life with this guide and a $40 battery. Keep on fixing stuff
Hello,
I have changed the old battery on Samsung Galaxy Watch Active 2 since it started to drain very fast. Initially it started to charge in very low or stopped at some percentage while charging. I have replace to new battery, but after replacement it started to charge at 27% and then the percentage started to decrease. I use original charger. Don't know what to do, any ideas are welcome. Thanks.
Hi there, after a couple of years, my Active2 40mm battery barely lasts 1 day. I'm thinking of changing it. Of course, I know that I should go for the 40mm battery. But before doing so, I just need to ask if anyone has tried to squeeze in the 44mm battery model in the 40mm? Is there any space for it? I know it's a dumb question, and probably there is no space, otherwise, the brand would have done it. Nevertheless, brands have made mistakes before...
Thanks
Dankzij de uitstekende beschrijving en erg duidelijke foto's de batterij van mijn Galaxy Active 2 zonder problemen kunnen vervangen. Dank!!
