Einleitung
Folge dieser Anleitung, um die Front Panel Sensor Einheit eines iPhone 6s zu wechseln. Diese Komponente beinhaltet die Frontkamera, den Umgebungslichtsensor und das Mikrofon.
Beachte, dass der Ohrhörer-Lautsprecher während dieser Anleitung entfernt wird - achte darauf, ihn vor dem Zusammenhau auf das Austauschkabel zu übertragen.
Außerdem kannst du diese Anleitung nutzen, um die Abdeckung des Ohrhörer-Lautsprechers auszutauschen.
Was du brauchst
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Entferne die beiden 3,4 mm P2 Pentalobe Schrauben an der Unterseite des iPhones links und rechts vom Lightning-Anschluss.
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In diesem Schritt verwendetes Werkzeug:Clampy - Anti-Clamp$24.95
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Genaue Anweisungen, wie die Anti-Clamp benutzt wird, findest du hier.
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Bringe die Saugheber nahe an der Unterkante des iPhones direkt über dem Home Button an, einen auf der Vorderseite, den anderen auf der Rückseite.
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Drücke die Saugheber auf den Oberflächen fest.
I found that the single suction cup from the kit worked very well. It didn’t take that much force to separate the front panel from the phone. I think any suction cup that you are able to get a firm grip on will probably work as well. There isn’t any adhesive holding the front panel in. It just snaps in and out. If you have a cracked screen and no screen protector, it may be hard to get a good suction seal. If that’s the case, someone else here suggested applying clear tape to the front glass to get a good surface for applying the suction cup. In my case, I already had a screen protector that was still intact so the suction cup sealed easily.
WORKED PERFECTLY… easy, no harm at all…. thanks a lot
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Drücke den blauen Griff vorwärts, um die Arme wieder zu verriegeln.
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Drehe den Griff eine volle Umdrehung im Uhrzeigersinn, oder bis du merkst, dass sich die Saugheber dehnen.
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Schiebe ein Plektrum unter das Display, sobald die Anti-Clamp eine ausreichend große Lücke erzeugt hat.
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Überspringe die nächsten drei Schritte .
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In diesem Schritt verwendetes Werkzeug:Clampy - Anti-Clamp$24.95
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Wenn du keine Anti-Clamp hast, folge den nächsten drei Schritten, um stattdessen einen Saugheber zu verwenden.
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Optional kannst du die Unterkante des iPhones mit einem iOpener oder einem Haartrockner für etwa eine Minute leicht erwärmen.
What about specifying the hot air temperature?
The glue softens pretty easily, so the exact temperature isn’t critical. Get it slightly too hot to touch. If you have trouble, heat it a little more and try again.
What temperature on the screen separator lcd machine and for how long?
This is the first time I opened my 6s since it was purchased new four years ago. Even without heat, constant and firm works enough to be able to squeeze the flat edge of the spudger. From that point and without any additional pulling from the suction, twist the spudger gently to “walk” it open on both sides.
I used a hand towel folded in half and a clothes iron on the cotton setting (med-high heat, no steam). Placing the doubled towel between the phone and the iron, I would set the iron down for about 20 seconds (my iron has a timer that beeps when left horizontal for too long). Lift the iron, check the temperature (aiming for just too hot to touch), reposition as needed, repeat. It took me a while, but that’s because I took my time not knowing how fast this would heat. All-in-all, about 2 minutes to reach the right temperature to loosen the adhesive (it IS tenacious).
Holy. Redii eirhejbrd
just been given a 6s to repair, for this stage would a hot water bottle work ??
I used a hot-water bottle to keep the iPhone warm while prying patiently, though the moving surface added to the challenge.
Before that, I put the iPhone - screen facing down - to warm on the coffee cup heater (45°C) of an espresso coffee machine. Half an hour seemed more than enough.
A hot-water bottle filled with water at 60°C would do the job I think.
Later repeated the same heating before removing the adhesive strips under the battery (allowed me to extract each strip successfully, rolling it on the body of the spudger).
And also before putting the new display assembly adhesive under heavy book weight.
Aubin -
I didn’t have any of the heating tools listed here so I improvised:
To soften the glue I heated water in a pan (not boiling but quite hot).
I put the phone in a thick plastic bag in the water for about 20 - 30 seconds. (I checked the bag was properly watertight first by dipping it in water – minus the phone). Maybe I was lucky but the screen came away easily doing it this way.
Clean the glass screen first with eye glass cleaner wipes (alcohol). Hair dryer on hot with low air speed works excellent. Aim the heat at 45 degrees (phone face up) and move around the perimeter for about 1 minute. The edges should be hot enough to barely touch without burning your figures. This seems to get the glue hot enough at the edges for easy removal. Warm the glass face a bit and also warm the suction cup, this makes the suction a lot better and the suction cup won’t come off like it will if the face and suction cup are cold. Later when removing the battery, heat the bottom with the hair dryer for about 30 seconds and the top of the bottom of the battery where the 2 tabs are for the tape behind the battery. This makes for simple removal of the battery tape under it.
Here’s what I did to open my iPhone (I had it open in under 1 minute): 1) I has one of those rice/barley filled eye masks that you heat up in a microwave. I heated it for 1 min and then placed my phone face down onto it for 1-2 min. 2) I placed the suction cup onto the left lower corner and the “tweezers” into the headphone jack. Pull upwards with the suction cup and hold the phone’s body down in place with the tweezers. 3) a gap will open. Slide the edge of a razor blade into the gap (not too deep) 4) insert the plastic triangular guitar pick tool into the gap next to the razor blade. Slide sideways with the triangular tool to make the gap large enough to insert the spudger. 5) insert the edge of the spudger tool (curve down) into the, now widened, gap. 6) slide the spudger tool along the edges of the iPhone. Opened!
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Bringe einen Saugheber an der unteren linken Ecke der Display-Einheit an.
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Achte darauf, den Saugheber nicht auf den Home Button zu setzen.
Hello, I was wondering if there was a guide of how to replace the adhesive strips, thank you
The suction cup will not work if you have a shattered screen. I put a tip of an exacto knife between the glass and side frame above the power connector, carefully pried up then used the spluger to pry the rest of the way up.
Tape will work as well in order to create a smooth surface
Even tape didn’t work on my first shattered screen 6S disassembly. Had to reset to the exacto/thin blade technique.
For me, it seemed like I only had one shot at the suction cup. It stuck on firmly the first time, but I noticed in the instructions that it was placed more on the side. I detached my suction cup and repositioned it and now it doesn’t stay (sucked) on. Hmmm.
Can you use the iSclack opener to open the iPhone 6s?
The iSclack is helpful, although you have to use it a bit differently than you would on, say, a 5s or 6. The iSclack alone isn’t strong enough to pop the display open, because of all the adhesive around the perimeter of the 6s display. But you can use it to lift the display just enough to get a tool in there and start cutting the adhesive. Basically, the iSclack does the same job as the suction cup shown here, with maybe a bit less fuss.
My screen was SUPER shattered… the hair dryer did the trick. Patience it definitely the key… I tried putting tape over the glass but the suction cup wouldn’t stick to it at all but it stuck to the broken glass for a few seconds. I taped it up when I was finally able to move onto the next steps to keep the glass from getting everywhere then peeled it off for Step 10.
Hi, it looks like, from reading the comments, that separating the display assembly from the phone is a tricky step.
Would the piece of equipment, in the link below, be any use at this stage? Seems it could be used for all makes and models.
Any info would be appreciated.
I have a screen protector on my phone. I was wondering if it was going to be problem for the suction cup.
A packing tape handle worked well for me instead of the suction cup. I folded a piece of packing tape in half leaving two ends to stick to the part of the screen indicated for the suction cup placement and used the center fold as a handle.
I found that a 3rd hand helped here. Lots of heat and as others say, a strong, steady pull, but you are only creating a gap to get the spludger in, not ripping the screen away from the body. Once I created the teeny gap I had someone else get the spludger in to hold it open while I shifted my grip.
I’ll throw in here for other noobs as someone who just read ALL the comments and had things go pretty well without a hitch.
Adhesive here goes ALL the way around edge. I think think many people’s frustration comes from in adequate heating and/or only heating the inferior edge area. I went with 5 min of a rice/shoulder thingy, (uniform rectangle folded in half on a plate, 3 min in the microwave) Plate side was hot potato hot and stayed so.
Other inference and comment curating:
a. Use pointy spudger end inserted slightly into headphone jack to hold down phone while pulling up;
b. 2mm lift MAX the insert something to hold while you bring the flat end of the spudger around (I just used the flesh of my finger;
c. Twist spudger ONLY zero -20 degrees when inserted;
d. Avoid spudgering above or between the pentab screw holes.
e. Avoid sticking the spudger in more than 2 mm as you slide up the left and right edges. If you catch, back it out a bit until you can keep sliding.
Also all props to Ifixit for addressing many issues with earlier versions of this and their replacement kit! A lot of complaints are clearly obsolete now.
And if this your first time block out an afternoon and be glad if it only takes 20-30 minutes. Rushing causes breakage more often than not.
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Halte das iPhone mit einer Hand fest und ziehe am Saugheber, um das Front Panel vom Rückgehäuse zu trennen.
Wow, that was tough. Patience, patience, patience. Did not use the iOpener, just firm and consistent pulling with the phone on a flat surface. When the suction cup comes off... clean the display surface and go back at it. I did use the pointed end of a spudger inserted into the headphone jack to hold down the bottom case whilst I pulled on the suction cup. Once there was sufficient room (see next step) you can just get the spudger (flat end) to slide in slightly.
If you're lifting up on the glass, how are you supposed to hold the rest of the phone down? Is it by holding the camera end down with the side of your hand and rotating your hand, or using your other hand (not pictured) on the edges (seems very difficult), or using a spudger in a jack?
I got a fingernail on the metal edge and that did the trick.
On the 6s, which has an annoying black adhesive strip holding the display assembly on, I use the iSclack to loosen a very small area near the home button then insert a thin spudger and gently twist it a bit to release the adhesive. Do this around the bottom and both sides of the phone to release the screen. I usually have to break some of the adhesive strands when the opening is big enough.
My spudgers just too thick for initial insertion. In the end, fingernail on my thumb got me started, and I was able to get plastic picks in there to work it. The microwavable iOpener gel strip really helped.
Thanks plisi, your comments are helpful. I had to apply pressure several different times. Didnt realize until about the seventh time applying pressure that what I was doing was slowly loosening the adhesive. Patience is truly the key with this step. You may not think you're progressing but it's slowly prying away.
hey everyone, i just did my first iphone 6S display...after many 5, 5c, and 5s iphones...just keep trying and carefully insert the spunger where they said...right around the headphone jack. The black adhesive makes it very tough to get it off unless you work at one corner. Be careful...but you can do it! ;-)
Use a razor, and go along the outside of the phone carevilly using the razor as a spudger. it will efficiently cut and weaken the adhesive while spudging the screen away from the frame. only takes 15 mins.... Use a workbench razor, not a flimsy one. If possible, use one where one side of the razor has a gaurd on it for better grip. Take it slow and try not to scratch the frame. Lots of pressure and patience is key!!!
Goodluck!!
-J
Use a hairdryer about 2-3 inches from the phone on high heat for about a minute, moving the dryer the entire time. The phone opened for me in less than a minute after trying for several minutes without heating up the phone.
Careful ..delicate work. I also used a hot hair dryer around the perimeter for just a couple minutes to help loosen the adhesive bond. I then used my sadly short finger nail to help loosen the edge. I placed dental floss under the corner & carefully lifted the display very very slowly. This worked within about 3 minutes. As mentioned earlier the adhesive used in the iPhone 6s is very strong but this routine worked like a charm & was quick!
Much easier to do using the Spudger that is provided in the Pro Tool Kit. It has a thinner fin type head. The Spudger provided in this repair kit is definitely too thick and makes it far more difficult.
The spudger is too thick and the glue is too strong. Pulling up broke the glass below the power button. Now I am out $200 for a repair, plus a battery. Bummer. I am VERY good at repairing things. The adhesive on this is very very strong. The pentalobe tip that they send with the kits not milled well and I had to take a file and flatten the tip to get it to work - it is not finished well at all. I used the kit for the iPhone 6 for my Mom and had no problem. I am 51 and have been fixing things since I was very young.
Well, I shattered my screen trying to do this. So now I need a battery and screen repair. Not happy.
Me too! Be gentle!
Me as well, I went very slowly, was working the spudger around the edge and then it shattered. Just going to buy a replacement phone and I was replacing the battery to gift this to my sister as a hand-me-down and now it’s not worth it. Perhaps I can sell the kit second hand…
kpederso -
Removing the display was the hardest part of the whole job. The adhesive is very strong, but just be patient. What I ended up doing was to use the suction cup, the flat end of the spudger, and an iFixit opening tool. I used the suction cup on the screen as directed. Then I placed the flat end of the spudger just a bit into the charging port and held down the phone body by the spudger on my work mat. I pulled up on the suction cup, pushed down on the spudger, and inserted the thin iFixit opening tool in the small seperation. I took my time and worked my way around all of the edges. After that it was really easy. I was able to reuse the adhesive, and my new battery install went just as planned.
Use a hair dryer as per the suggestions and this will definitely make the job easier and reducing the risk of breaking the display . Keep a steady pull of the display, don’t rush and it will start to show the small separation gap. An issue is that it will go back in place if you stop pulling before you can use the spudger tool. The suction tool that came with my repair kit did not have a ring on it as per the guide picture. It has a blue handle that is open on the side. I sat at my kitchen desk and opened a drawer. I hooked the open edge of the suction handle around the drawer side edge which me a third hand. I held the phone with one hand and pulled it away from the desk drawer. Once the separation started I could use my other hand with the flat edge of the spudger to complete the separation. Hope this helps.
Hair dryer - 1 minute until it’s hot like a fresh mug of coffee. Then as soon as you see the smallest gap, insert a razor blade above the phones jack, I needed to slide it towards the charge port and back. Once it slips in keep it there and use your spudger to enlarge the gap and slide it along the corners.
Yes, I used the tip of a sharp knife as a pry tool to get me started. Since the screen was cracked anyway I figured I had nothing to lose. It went fine.
Also tried it with the hair dryer - worked like a charm. 5 Minutes and the phone was open. The whole repair procedure took me about 45 minutes, and was ok. Re-assembling the three display-connectors has been a bit tricky, but with careful movements and taking the time it needs it was not a big problem. New display is very good, phone looks like new :-)
My glass was broken and the suction cup wouldn’t hold on the tape. I used a very thin knife an slowly worked between the glass and the phone frame. Please keep in mind that my phone had been run over by a Ford F150, so I really had nothing to lose.
What is unfortunately unclear is just how to 1. apply sufficient force and keeping the phone secure with only one hand, 2. whether this is best done on a table to use its opposing surface to secure the phone.
The suction cup is a worthless tool because flexes too much to provide a good hold. Mine slipped and popped away three times. -The last time causing a crack in the screen.
Glad I read these comments about the screen cracking because I was really trying to force this thing open (with some heat applied already), but it wasn’t budging. Kept applying heat and light force and eventually it started coming apart. The suggestion for placing the pointed end of the spudger in the headphone jack while prying up worked for me and an extra set of hands would have been ideal.
In the end, with the spudger in the headphone jack, placed a guitar pick in between the screen and the backing and slid it along the bottom left. Left the tip of the guitar pick in to hold the gap and then was able to use the spudger to complete the process as shown.
Beware! I cracked the screen. Used iOpener, iFixit spudger etc. I managed to get the spudger into the gap by the headset socket and worked my way up the left, when I came to do the right the screen was cracked. I was taking it slow and steady but clearly that wasn’t enough. Be VERY careful.
Heat is essential, and take it very slowly. Also take seriously the instruction to open just enough to get the spudger in there—then do the real work with that. The suction is just to get started. I had my son insert the spudger as soon as there was any gap at all, then worked it according to the guide.
I did this on a card table with a vinyl surface so I could lay the phone down. Then I held the metal frame on both sides while pulling the suction cup—my son having the spudger at the ready. Definitely be patient! I had to restart several times when the suction cup popped off and I accidentally reengaged the clips pressing it back on.
I didn’t have any of the heating tools listed here so I improvised:
To soften the glue I heated water in a pan (not boiling but quite hot).
I put the phone in a thick plastic bag in the water for about 20 - 30 seconds. (I checked the bag was properly watertight first by dipping it in water – minus the phone). Maybe I was lucky but the screen came away easily doing it this way.
I did the hair dryer three or four times and applied all of the pressure i could on the suction cup and it just wouldn’t budge. My phone is old and i had a waterproof case on it for a long time that really pressed down on the glass so it would seal. I think having that on for three or more years really sealed the glass!!!! Didn’t want to break it so will live with my battery as is…..it last most of the day and i am usually around a car charger or home. Just thought i would add a comment that said man i gave it my best shot and opted not to do it. I really liked the kit though and the tool will come in pretty handy to repair other small things.
This was waaaaay the hardest bit for me. Took ages Almost gave up. Allow AT LEAST twenty minutes. Endless patience pulling, then resting for a bit then pulling again. S.T.E.A.D.Y Keep at it long after your inner voice is saying ‘why did you think you could do this. You have never mended anything in your life.’ Then you see the gap and like a steady bomb disposal expert you quietly winkle it apart.
Used heat from a hairdryer, gentle pulling to lift the glass at the position above the headphone jack one to 2 millimetres with the suction cup, then put my thumbnail in the gap and pulled up gently a bit more to fit the spudger, and mainly slid the spudger as indicated around the glass, bottom first, and then sides to within about a centimetre of the top at most, to release the display. I found very little prying is needed. Once a gap of about a millimetre or 2 is created, that is enough to release the display from the adhesive.
Run a little isopropanol along the seam at the bottom end (I had no syringe, so I dipped the handle end of a spoon in and ran that along). Leave a couple of minutes, then warm with a hair drier. It will pop right off with the suction cup.
It was so much easier after I removed the two screws from step one… LOL! With heat, the screen should come up quite easily. You definitely don’t want to pull too hard. I introduced a small illumination artifact into the screen where the suction cup was attached. I’m not sure whether this was due to the suction cup or excessive heat. I was using a heat gun and trying to warm the screen evenly so it wouldn’t crack. But the temp might have been too high. Next time I’ll just heat the metal around the edges.
don’t forget the screws like my stupid self did!!!
After 45 minutes of using a hair dryer the entire time while suction cupping it some 50 times (kept popping off), I finally was able to create the gap needed to remove the display. I found steady pulling of the suction cup was useless. I had to quickly pull,release,pull,release,repeat and this nudged the tape apart, which had the constancy of dried superglue. Not easy, but this phone was 7 years old,....
Got this done in about 2 minutes!! I used a space with that had a fan function. Held up my phone to it for a few minutes, also heated up the suction cup. I didn't have extra help, so the whole "pull suction cup with left hand, hold down phone by headphone jack with right hand, and insert pick with ??? hand" wasn't going to work. I was able to hold the phone down while also pulling up on the suction cup all with my left hand (almost like i was peeling the screen up). Stuck a plastic Opening Pick in the small opening, then slid in the flat end of a spudger. I could not rotate the spudger like in the photo (photo 2 of step 6), the screen was stuck on too tight, so I just started sliding the thin end of the spudger around. I held the phone up in front of the heater during this. I also used the pick to cut adhesive along the way.
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Platziere die flache Seite des Spudgers in den Spalt zwischen Display und dem hinteren Gehäuse, direkt über dem Kopfhöreranschluss.
WARNING: easy to stretch/ruin the adhesive
As you proceed, know that you must keep ALL of the adhesive stuck to the phone. If any stays stuck to display, it can become permanently stretched as you are prying and lifting. Then you’ll need to buy the replacement adhesive, once it’s back in stock!
If you’re opening the phone at all, you’re compromising the adhesive. There is absolutely no way to somehow open it perfectly so you can re-use it. Fortunately, it’s cheap and fairly easy to replace—and not even that critical on the 6s series anyway, since it’s not doing any real waterproofing.
I had a badly cracked screen. Packing tape helped the suction cup stick. Heating the phone helped soften the adhesive, and in the end I pried the screen up at the headphone jack with a sharp pointy knife. That helped me get the spudger underneath. Not recommended if the screen is ok, like for a battery replacement, but mine was cracked so I figured I had nothing to lose. Great guide.
There are two relatively delicate brackets that the two P2 Pentalobe screws screw into. They can be easily bent during this prying open process. I ruined one on my phone and I’m hoping the phone will function with just one bracket.
+1 on the pointy knife to get the screen pried up. I couldn’t get the suction cup or tape to adhere well enough due to the glass being so shattered. I heated it for quite a while with the hair dryer on high, got a very sharp knife tip under the glass where the “notch” is, and used that to pry upward while another person slid the end of the spudger into the gap I was holding open with the knife. This one step was basically a three-handed job.
Do not insert the spudger at any time directly beneath the home button because it will crack the screen at the point.
+1 to never trying to lift the screen from directly beneath the home button.
Romke -
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Drehe den Spudger in eine hochkante Position, um den Spalt zwischen Display-Einheit und dem Rest des iPhones zu vergrößern.
No need to turn the spudger full 90°. Just turn it a little.
should have a warning to be very gentle when doing this as the screen is glass - i shattered my screen following this guide
Do not twist spudger! Broke my screen. Thanks, iBrokeIt.
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Füge das flache Ende auf der linken Seite des iPhones ein, zwischen Display-Einheit und Rückgehäuse.
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Fahre mit dem Spudger auf der linken Seite in Richtung obere Hälfte des iPhones, um den Kleber zu trennen und die Klammern zu lösen.
I’ve found it very easy to open the phone with one of the blue opening picks.
Just slide it along the left and right side of the display.
Excellent idea. No matter which tool you use take your time so not to damage the display assembly further. Even a cracked screen is a great test tool or spare to use while doing other repairs when it still comes on.
Your phone died
ok but where js the oart about puttung ut back together? mine diesnt snapinto place,……
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Entferne den Spudger und füge ihn erneut im unteren Teil des Gerätes ein, genau dort wo du mit dem Öffnen begonnen hast.
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Fahre mit dem Spudger in Richtung rechte untere Ecke des iPhones.
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Fahre mit dem Spudger weiter die rechte Seite hoch, löse dadurch den Kleber und die noch festsitzenden Klammern.
How do I release the clips individually? Is there a good explanation?
i personally use a utility knife and it helps separate the metal bracket that's on the screen from the phone housing
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Nutze den Saugnapf, um das Display zu öffnen, dadurch sollte auch der letzte festsitzende Kleber entfernt werden.
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Ziehe an der Kunststoff-Noppe, um die Vakuumversiegelung am Saugnapf zu lösen. Entferne dann den Saugnapf von der Displayeinheit.
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Öffne das iPhone, indem du das Home Button-Ende des Front Panels vom hinteren Gehäuse wegklappst und dabei die Oberkante des Mobiltelefons als Scharnier verwendest.
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Öffne das Display um ca. 90 Grad und lehne es gegen etwas, damit es abgestützt ist, während du am Gerät arbeitest.
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Befestige das Display mit einem Gummiband, während du arbeitest. Das verhindert ein ungewolltes Dehnen der Displaykabel.
on the third picture, the screen is opened more than 90 degrees.
It said about 90 degrees
Actually it literally says, “Don't open the display more than 90º, as it is still connected at the top by three cables that may break if stretched.”
David -
Be careful when separating the halves not to pull off the black tape on the back of the screen half. Mine was stuck to the two halves and I thought it was double sided tape to holding the halves together. It was shredded in separating the 2 halves. It turns out it covers up some kindof of silver paste (purpose unknown) on the back of the screen so I cut a put a piece of plastic film to match it and taped it in place. We’ll see what happens…
this is bs as they do not tell you reverse how to snap the fuker back on…..putting it in back on!,!!! the guy asks for points for writing thus? why not make a video you dirk….and how to put it back on….what about the other adhesive?..? you moron it says mothing…anyone else have a link? oi could barely put the screws back in..
takimg the fuker apart is easy….putting the $@$* together again? humpty dumpty!”!!!
When replacing the screen, make sure to get the top (camera side) lip in first, then work downward along the sides, getting the edge with the home button in last.
i normally use the long pick as a prop like that on a vehicle
It should be noted that to camera end of the screen body needs to hook under the edge of the body…..the hooks of the screen frame need to be under the rim of the main body and snugged toward the camera end to easily close the cover and have it properly clip. These hooks are not really a proper hinge but clasps that need to be under the rim of the main phone frame/edge!! This way the screen easily will return to its closed state nicely gently snapping into place!!
EVERYONE read this comment. It is KEY.
Also reverse order for getting screen clipped back in means pressing along the right side top to bottom corner. Then the left. Between that and this comment sandwiches back in like a cinch.
Aaron -
I used a full beer can and 2 elastic bands to hold the face at 90 degrees. One elastic at the top and one at the bottom keeps the face still at 90 degrees. This allows you to work on the phone easily. I did not remove the face totally to redo the perimeter glue as I have never dropped my phone in the water over the “long” time I have had it.
On reassembly, notice that the top does not snap in. There are hooks that must be engaged before levering the halves back together
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In diesem Schritt verwendetes Werkzeug:Magnetic Project Mat$19.95
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Entferne die beiden Kreuzschlitzschrauben von der Kabelabdeckung des Akkuanschlusses. Sie haben folgende Längen:
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Eine 2,9 mm Schraube
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Eine 2,2 mm Schraube
Please! Please! Please! Invest in a Magnetic Project Mat or its equivalent from fixit. It will assist you with completing your repair.
I just taped down a 8.5 x 11 white piece of paper on my desk and drew a rough image of it, then ‘taped’ the screw I removed to the “image” on paper. It worked just fine. (My first time ever opening an iphone, so give it a shot!)
if you get a plastic ice cube tray, and a fine marker pen, text the sizes on each cube compartment as you follow the guide, also stops the screws getting lost
used sheet of A4 paper and bluetak - stick screw in bluetak, write location & size on paper
mine is missing a screw!!! this is bs! this was mynmithers ohone nonone ooened it….one screw only…im liesed offf
For some odd reason the screw “One 2.2 mm screw “ orange circled seems to be stuck and can not be unscrewed.
that could be because of the threaded part might have been broken (i've run into that a few times) never fun but pretty easy to work around it if needed
Take a picture of the opened phone. Print it out. Put double sided clear tape over the picture of each screw. Stick the screws to the tape on the picture where they belong.
For removing screws, I used a piece of paper and sketched the screw locations and screw sizes in the appropriate pattern for each step I was working on removing screws. I folded clear packing tape in a loop so some sticky area was on top for each screw so they did not fly away when the hair dryer was on or in case I knocked the paper while working beside it. This kept all the screws in an easy pattern with descriptions for later install. Worked slick.
Ordered a replacement kit, opened my Iphone 6S, got to this step... surprise, my OEM battery connector is at the TOP ! I am stuck, what now?
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Entferne die Kabelabdeckung des Akkuanschlusses.
Little bit of adhesive holds this down- you do have to use the tiniest bit of force.
Pay careful attention to the orientation of this plate so that when it comes to re-installation you put it back the correct way. Sounds obvious but I’ve found it inverted in one customer’s phone, which led symptoms of charging failures and repeated spontaneous restarts.
that's something i've never heard happening before wow
The replacement battery’s connector is just slightly thicker vs the original. When I put the screen back on (also a replacement part from Ifixit) I get a blue shadow because the battery connector is putting pressure on the screen.
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Heble den Akkustecker mit dem spitzen Ende eines Spudgers vorsichtig von seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board.
Be sure not to skip this step. It is crucial. I have had many repairs where the screen will not light up after the repair if the battery had not been disconnected and reconnected.
Thanks for the tip, Andrew.
It should also be mentioned, DO NOT USE A METAL SPUDGER. You could short the battery to other nearby metal parts. I've done that, the battery clip arced to the metal cover on some of the logic board chips, and my phone wouldn't power back on for 3 days. They should put a caution caption on this step. I've had this happen on a 5S as well.
Thanks for the tip, Frank.
SERIOUS WARNING!: During *reassembly*, you should NOT reconnect the battery connector until the VERY LAST step (upon reassembly!), as many people, including myself, apparently have smoked (burned, destroyed) the main Logic board. This happens when you reconnect the LCD/digitizer assembly FPC cable. ifixit should modify this instruction to be very explicit about this!
It sounds like several people, including myself, had trouble charging the new replacement battery past about 10%. This ended up being due to the new battery not having a non-conductive insulator. The way to solve this is by adding a small piece of electrical tape to cover the battery connector before screwing in the battery connector bracket over it. You may want to do this on the first go-around.
If you do experience that problem, I found the answer here and it worked perfectly: iPhone battery not charging after DIY battery replacement. Why?
Thanks to Heather Pastushok (and Behrang Mohajer at “iPhone battery not charging . . .) for this important detail. My iFixit battery came with a thin layer of black foam insulation on the top surface of the battery connector, but even gentle pressure from a blunt plastic tool (pushing the connector in place) scraped an exposed spot. A carefully trimmed piece of black electrician's tape provided peace of mind. The iPhone 6s is good as new with the battery now at 100%!
Thanks to Heather Pastushok (and Behrang Mohajer at “iPhone battery not charging . . .) for this important detail. My iFixit battery came with a thin layer of black foam insulation on the top surface of the battery connector, but even gentle pressure from a blunt plastic tool (pushing the connector in place) scraped an exposed spot. A carefully trimmed piece of black electrician's tape provided peace of mind. The iPhone 6s is good as new with the battery now at 100%!
To reduce risk of battery arcing , as soon as the old battery connector was detached, I wrapped it with insulation from connection all the way to the battery body. Did the same with the new battery to eliminate concerns about shorts while checking fit position to assure the connector would match up with the receiver. Only removed the insulation after all other connections had been restored, so plugging in the battery was the last step before closing the case.
so we are supposed to attach the battery connector back on before peeling the plastic off the adhesive on back of new battery and while still attached, remove the plastic to expose the adhesive? And then once adhered, disconnect the battery connector again until last step? Just want to make sure I have this correct. So wish they had did step by step with pics for reassembly vs just "repeat steps in reverse order" with some notations.
Tipp Benutzt ein Plektrum statt dem Spunger. Funktioniert deutlich besser
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Drücke den Akkustecker vom Logic Board weg, so dass es während der Reparatur nicht zu einer unbeabsichtigten Verbindung mit dem Anschluss kommt.
If you remove the grey bar with the word “TAPTIC” next, removal of the battery adhesive is much easier. It can be pulled straighter back with less chance of tearing. Here’s an image with the securing screws identified.
If you securely anchor the screen to a can of soup, it is not necessary complete step 16 Front Panel Assembly. I was able to remove the two bottom (1.2 mm) screws and the 2.8 mm screw, but could not get the upper (1.2 mm) screw. I was able to remove the old battery with the Front Panel Assembly left in place.
Amazing tip Edward, I followed your tip exactly and agree to definitely remove the “TAPTIC”
I misread the directions and pulled off the whole large sheet first. I was able to align the bottom of the smaller sheet into the edge of the phone and get the adhesive into the right area. It was a little tricky but once it dropped down it was in the right place. I would have liked an indication of which was top and which was the bottom of the adhesive. The corners seemed slightly different and I aligned the bottom ones carefully.
the new battery from ifixit came with a dented connector and wont connect to the logic board. What do I do?
are you suuuuuure you didn’t dent the connector? i know if i had received a battery with a dented connector, i’d immediately contact the seller so you probably dented it yourself and now you’re trying to trick all us but we’re on to you.
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Entferne die folgenden vier Kreuzschlitzschrauben, die die Kabelhalterung befestigen:
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Drei 1,2 mm Schrauben
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Eine 2,8 mm Schraube
Thank you for this great guide!
I was able to skip removing the display assembly and logic board steps and lay the speaker upside down on the bottom edge of the logic board without putting undue pressure on the antenna cable making this a much easier and quicker repair for me. If you choose to leave the display assembly connected, I recommend using a rubber band to hold it to a box of similar size at a 90 degree angle to prevent damage and stress to the attached cables.
So, the steps I skipped were Steps 16 through 34 and Steps 37 through 45.
You need to remove the screen completely if you want to replace the adhesive gasket around the outer phone edge.
The 1.2mm screw in the top left corner is refusing to come out, any help?
I’m also having this issue now, what did you do to get the screw out?
Sounds common but no solution? I keep working at it but no luck. Anyone find a way in the last few years?
There’s no trick… Make sure you’ve got the right driver, press down HARD, and crank it. If it’s stripping, check your driver and consider moving up one size. Resources: Screwdriver Best Practices & How to Remove a Stripped Screw - Good luck!
Bullshit theres no trick, use a small magnet, or whatever size u have,
why does the battery fix kit not include the #00 bit needed to unscrew all 3 1.2mm screws?!?! !#^&@@ off.
Either a #00 or a #000 bit should work fine here. Some #0 bits will also work if the point is fine enough. Same goes for a lot of JIS bits. As long as it doesn't strip or slip, you're good.
My kit's screwdriver failed about the time I got to the last few steps in this tutorial. I had a cheap precision set with a #000 bit but that refused to seat in the screws. I went to Home Depot, bought a lifetime guarantee Husky precision set with #0000 through #0 bits and that worked beautifully on every screw.
The screwdriver in my kit doesn't remove the bottom two screws! any reason why?
I actually followed all the guide but isn’t the front panel disassembly skippable? And if so what are the benefits of removing it? Cause i had quite a hard time putting back in the connectors of the 3 flex cables.
You need to remove the screen completely if you want to replace the adhesive gasket around the phone’s outer edge.
I have the 6s from Dubai. the top left screw is different with the rest. I am stuck on this screw. i am clue less why this top left + screw.
Anyone have the same issue?
A precision screwdriver set is a wise investment for doing any of this work. I got a set from iFixit that is very well machined. Don’t expect the cheap drivers with kits to last more than one disassembly-assembly, if that! Also don’t keep mangled bits or drivers…throw them out!!!
what crews should I use in this step PH000. OR Y000 OR P2 Plz help me
The kit provided with the replacement Battery of iPhone 6s does not include the right bits to remove the three 1,2mm screws! I had to remove it without removing the display.
I too experienced a problem with the size of the screwdriver here (supplied in the iFixit kit.) My phone also had a 5th screw right in the center of the plate - another 1.2mm. I removed and replace it without problems.
@scottvyoung Sounds like you’re working on an iPhone 6. These instructions are for the 6s.
Screws are very small and very difficult to put back in!! Lost 2-3 screws
Put phone back together and of course doesnt work Waste of Money!
I purchased a “screw set” for an i-Phone 5 and have slowly been cannibalizing it whenever I lose a screw. It has been invaluable and the set includes enough screws that I have been able to cover all that have been dropped and lost for 3 i-Phones now. Using a magnetic mat has also limited my screw loss considerably! All of these items were purchased through IFIXIT at very reasonable cost. Thank you IFIXIT!
The ifixit kit supplied screwdriver for the display cable bracket did NOT fit. (disappointing) So, I used scentar’s (comment above) method of a large rubber band wrapped around a book weighted kit box to hold it at 90 degrees. Leaving the screen attached and then removing and replacing the battery.
I had a problem reassembling the iPhone, my touchId wasn’t working any more even if the home button was working correctly. I don’t know why but loosening these 4 screw a bit made it work again. If I tight them again it doesn’t work. Maybe this can help someone.
@alexmufatti I had the same exact issue and luckily came across the same solution by trial and error. However a few weeks later Touch ID suddenly stopped working again and I think it’s the same issue. I was hoping somebody came across a more permanent solution.
I was nervous not following this guide step-by-step, but as others mentioned I did not have the correct ‘bit’ size to remove the 3 screws circled in ‘red’ in the above diagram. I skipped steps 17, 18, 19 BUT used the ‘tip’ in step 11 to prop the front screen without removing the front display completely and I was still able to replace battery.
how to measure the screw? from the head or from under the head?
Measurements in the guide are for the entire length of the screw, including the head, as measured with an ordinary digital caliper.
I was unable to remove the display cable bracket. Therefore I was unable to remove the display, which meant I couldn’t replace the screen seal. ☹️ The small Phillips bit seemed too pointed so it couldn’t get into the screw deep enough to grip. The second Phillips bit was too big. It makes me wonder if I got the correct tool kit with my battery replacement kit.
The display does not have to be removed! If you secure it in place with a rubber band as advised (actually one at the top and one at the bottom works best - stops the bottom half of the phone sliding towards you) , it will quite happily sit there while the battery is replaced. It’s definitely better not to have to remove and reconnect those display connectors!
I’ve done this with an iPhone 5 and an iPhone 6S. I did not remove the display either time; I was afraid of damaging something unnecessarily. It’s definitely not necessary to remove it! I had an extra set of hands and eyes to help me be careful, but if you get the battery adhesive strips off cleanly, it’s easy to leave the display on.
I skipped 17 to 22 as I was not redoing the perimeter glue. Worked well for me, except the phone will not be water proof.
no need to remove the display. I did not even secure it..just did the replacement carefully. All worked out well. Also unless you are planning on submerging the phone in the water replace the perimeter glue. Otherwise it works just fine with out it.
Perfect. I followed the instructions and it worked to a "T". For the critics who don't know, the screwdriver handle is magnetized and will hold the tiny screws in place while you remove or insert them. After the battery replacement the phone seems to be going through some type of setup. I'll wait and see what happens after its charged to 100%.
The "Three 1.2 mm screws" seem to be particularly fragile either that or the PH00 and the PH000 are the incorrect drivers - this part of the guide should be clearer on what driver should be used as every time I touch these screws I seem to strip them 😩
Hope this helps
Regards
IMHO this is not neccessary.
I took A Guy Called Guy's advice and skipped this entire Front Assembly Step and went straight to Step 23.
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Entferne die Abdeckung der Displaykabel.
What can I do if one of the screws get stripped?
IMHO this is not neccessary.
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Löse mit dem Spudger oder einem Fingernagel den Stecker des Frontkamerakabels von seinem Anschluss vom Logic Board, indem du es gerade nach oben hebelst.
Note carefully the order that they are removed. My new display had them in the WRONG order and I spent about 2 minutes trying to figure out what was wrong until I compared the new screen with the old screen and saw that they were in wrong sequence. Fortunately they were relatively easy to fold out of the way and put them in the right order. After that they popped right into place. The new cables don’t have the “fold” yet so display had to be held at 90 degrees until all three were installed and the cover reattached.
I pop up these screen connectors using my fingernail. After doing a lot of repairs, this is the easiest and fastest way to get them loose.
pad under earspeaker is lost, where to buy?
For me, both the camera flex cable and the digitizer cable from step 20 came out together. Made me wonder in step 20 where was the cable I needed to release :-)
Are there any tips for plugging the connectors back in, besides don’t push on the center of the digitizer? It felt like I could really mess up the pins if they weren’t aligned correctly and I tried to push them in too firmly.
IMHO this is not neccessary.
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Löse den Stecker des Digitizerkabels vom Logic Board, indem du es gerade nach oben hebelst.
Yes--if you, like me, could not get the digitizer connector to seat, you've probably got confused on the reassembly order. I had to remove the EMI shield (seven screws), and reinstall it ON TOP of the big flap tongue that comes with the new digitizer, rearranging the order of the connector tails. Note that one of the connectors is a bit shorter than the other, and one of the receptacles on the iPhone is shorter as well. Make sure you're laying down the tails and connectors in the right order when you reassemble! The display data cable--sideways to the others, toward the outer edge, goes first. Then the longer connector, and finally the shorter one. When they're seated, they're seated, and you'll be sure of it.
I have no audio through the earpiece after completing the process. I have removed and reseated all cables several times. What’s wrong?
Same problem…. any suggestions?
I can get one end of the thing to fit in to place, and then when I move over to push the other side down, the first side pops back out.
I've got the reassembly order backwards and installed the battery first, and the digitizet seccond. I think I fried something, because smoke came out of the socket. Can anyone tell me what needs to be replaced?
IMHO this is not neccessary.
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Löse den Stecker des Displaydatenkabels aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board, indem du es gerade nach oben hebelst.
I notice there are 3 flex cables, does this disassembly guide apply to the verizon version of iPhone 6s? I don't want to order the wrong digitizer screen for my new and improved iPhone that i somehow managed to crack the screen on.
There are four cables to disconnect here to complete this process, at least on my phone. The replacement screen also had 4, so no problem.
My replacement screen had only two connectors while the old screen had 3. I sent it back for replacement. Not sure what went wrong here, because everything else fit perfectly. So what model could this replacement screen have been intended for?
I am having a hard time reattaching the LCD cable. Is it possible I bent the connectors? Or possibly the gaskets around it are interfering? I’d like to just pull all of that waterproofing gasket off! >:(
Did you end up going this? My screen is black so I'm trying to figure out what i did
I neglected to detach the battery before taking this step and upon reassembly I have no display. What might be my next step to repair.
You can try reseating the cables, but the likely answer is that your logic board’s backlight circuit is blown. If you power on your phone and you can see an image on the display by shining a bright light on it, your backlight circuit is toast. This is a common repair and very fixable, but requires microsoldering equipment and expertise. It’s not a DIY.
I made the same mistake and I'm wondering if you got a fix for it? Is the damage done on the screen assembly or phone itself?
My screen replacement only comes with two flex cables but all of the videos are showing three. It is not working to connect the flex cables to the connectors
The third flex cable would be for the front-facing camera, sensors, etc. If you bought a display that doesn’t include those components, you’ll need to transfer them to your new display first, and then you’ll be able to install it and plug everything in. The instructions are over here. Good luck!
There are four cables to disconnect here to complete this process. My replacement only got 3, what should i do?
IMHO this is not neccessary.
I work for Jabil building the rudder for the F-35 & THIS seems so aggravating ! I’m leaving this to someone experienced, doing it over & over again!! Gives someone a job too! Some things are just worth paying for!
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Entferne die Displayeinheit.
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Halte beim Zusammenbau hier an, wenn du die Klebestreifen an den Kanten des Displays ersetzen willst.
If you're replacing the adhesive, be sure to check the two tabs on the display that receive the pentalobe screws before setting the display on the new adhesive. The tabs on my display were bent inward slightly—just out of reach of the pentalobe screws. I didn't bend these out before setting the display and was forced to re-open the display to adjust them, ruining my carefully placed adhesive.
There is no need to remove camera or the logic board if all you want to do is replace the lightning assembly. Leaving things in place will save you a number of steps. Proceed directly to Step 35 and save yourself all this work.
Also read comments on step 37 as others have also pointed out that there is no need to pull logic board and you can skip those steps mentioned.
Unless you are replacing the speaker you can skip to step 34 as there is no need to remove the logic board.
When reconnecting to the logic board, reverse the order, so display first, then digitizer and finally camera. The front pannel slides into small edge of the backchannel. So start at the top when you put front and back together.
If reapplying adhesive, I would strongly recommend that you wait until you are reassembling the phone. Otherwise, trust me, it gets really sticky and limits your mobility around the phone. I had it all over my fingers by the time I finally got the old battery out and the new one in.
Removing the battery was a challenge as the old adhesive snapped before it came out so I had to use a hair dryer to warm the adhesive before slowly peeling the battery off. I still manage to puncture the batter and nearly had a fire. When inserting the new battery I didn’t leave enough room for the connector to fit beside it so I had to pull it off, plug the connector into its port, then insert the battery. I think the instructions should warn you to leave enough room for the connector to tuck in beside it.
The kit came with a new adhesive gasket but I could not find the instructions on how to install it. But after 45 minutes I had it done and my iPhone 6S is back in working order. Don’t forget to ‘hard’ reset the phone on start up, run the new battery all the way down. Otherwise this is a very good value time and money wise.
IMHO this is not neccessary.
I preferred not to use the adhesive edges around the phone, as this makes replacing the battery in future more time consuming. My iPhone works fine without the adhesive.
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Entferne die folgenden drei Kreuzschlitzschrauben, die die Halterung des Ohrhörer-Lautsprechers befestigen:
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Zwei 2,3 mm lange Schrauben
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Eine 1,9 mm lange Schraube
are you sure it's long, short, long. From what it looks like, it's long, long, short.
Yup, you're right! We've updated the guide accordingly. Thanks for the heads up.
The "1.3mm" seems closer to 2.3mm to me so 1.9mm may be correct..?
What part is the connection that connects this called ?
1.3mm is definitely too small. I had lost this screw and when I tried to put a 1.3mm screw in, the threads wouldn't catch. 1.4mm was the smallest that would fit. 1.9mm also worked so that's what I used. Seems like it would be more secure than 1.4mm.
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Ziehe vorsichtig die Dichtung der Halterung ab, während du die Halterung des Ohrhörer-Lautsprechers anhebst und entfernst.
I temoved the gasket while changing screen. What does the gasket actually do? Is it necessary?
Gasket thing literally does nothing. Couldn't get it back on properly so I peeled the flimsy thing off. No issues with my phone at all.
Gasket does not seem to have any connection or logic. I just let it be when I could not fit it. Worked fine.
Isn't the gasket some sort of water resistant seal?
A little bit of heat and gentle, patient tugging from both directions with my tweezers got the gasket out whole (although from the sounds of the other comments it is not important).
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Benutze das flache Ende eines Spudgers, die Frontkamera aus ihrem Sitz zu schubsen.
It took me a while to realize this while reassembling, but my replacement screen didn’t have a “housing” for the front-facing camera. I finally spotted a clear plastic piece in the broken screen, which provided a circular collar that was the camera housing. I was able to take it out and snap it into the equivalent spot on the replacement screen.
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Ziehe die Frontkamera vorsichtig zurück, um an den Ohrhörer-Lautsprecher zu gelangen.
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Entferne den Ohrhörer-Lautsprecher.
I have the same question. They look like the same speaker. Are they compatible?
The problem might not be the earpiece speaker! I replaced mine and had no improvement in quality. After reviewing forums, I suspected the earpiece screen was dirty/plugged. I disassembled the phone again, removed the earpiece speaker, carefully scraped and poked at the earpiece screen until a flashlight revealed the holes were clear. After a quick reassembly, playback of a voicemail verified full volume has been restored. Since you’re in there anyway, whether the problem is the screen or the speaker, clean the screen and replace the speaker.
Reassembly of this stage took me two goes to get right. Take care to ensure that the speaker connecter strip is properly aligned over the pegs.
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Halte die Frontkamera aus dem Weg und drücke den Umgebungslichtsensor mit der Spitze eines Spudgers aus seiner Vertiefung im Front Panel.
Don’t forget the little white rectangular light diffusing (I assume) mat that goes between the ambient-light sensor and the screen if your replacement doesn’t have it!
Or if your replacement screen does have the clear plastic part (light diffuser?), then don’t forget to remove the one from the sensor assembly - not doing so makes it very difficult to replace the assembly…
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Halte die Frontkamera und das Sensorkabel nach oben, um an das Mikrofon zu gelangen.
The light sensor cable is unclear: the connection cable must be bent by 180 degrees, so that the flat side is looking outside (optical active side)? Or is the opposite sensor side with the hole the optical sensitive sensor ?
When I reinstalled the assembly I had to bend the tiny cable the connects the microphone to the main cable so the gold side of the microphone faces up (to the inside of the phone). The next step in the reinstallation has you installing the ambient light sensor and ambient light sensor. You will need to bend the tiny cable that connects the ambient light sensor 180 degrees so it fits into the recess!
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Löse vorsichtig mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers den Kleber, mit dem das Mikrofon am Front Panel festgeklebt ist.
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Entferne die Frontkamera und das Sensorkabel.
iPhone 6s microphone has a small rubber speaker gasket attached to it. not shown in this picture
thankscfor letting me know
I think that rubber gasket is what you are trying to peel the microphone away from. In my phone, the gasket is part of the earpiece grill. My screen replacement included a new replacement earpiece grill with a new gasket on it, and new adhesive, so I did want to peel the old one off as shown here.
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Arbeite die Schritte in umgekehrter Reihenfolge ab, um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen.
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17 Kommentare
I replaced this connector (+camera) and now the camera doesn't focus anymore. Any idea why is that?
There is a good chance that the camera is bad. Try to rub it with a Q tip and some alcohol if that does not fix it try to clean the glass of the screen from the inside.
The old speaker works fine?
Or should be replaced with the new flex, because I read in the other tutorial here in ifixit that mentions something about the speaker an oil that these have.
I questioned this because I broke the flex of my iPhone 6s Plus trying to clean after water immersion.
Just used this guide to replace the front camera in my iPhone 6s !!! Thank you guys at iFixit ! Now it works as well as a new one! yaaaaaaay
That was insanely hard. But it worked! Front camera, proximity sensor, light sensor and speaker all work! So hard. If it didn’t work I wasn’t even going to bother trying to remove it and start again. It was really hard to tell how to put the replacement part in, because it doesn’t come folded up like the final product, so it’s hard to tell where the folds will occur. Phew. What a relief. The original damage on mine was the cable snapped in half when I was trying to do a screen replacement. The screen replacement worked but that one cable broke clean in half from bending the display back and forth. I call that a hard (not moderate) repair because it’s SO hard to get all 4 things lined up perfectly (camera, two sensors and the speaker which just sits there).
Hey,
I did all those steps with precision however my front camera isn’t working anymore. Basically, my phone was run over by a car, I replaced the screen with a new one that didn’t come with a home button and camera so I had to put them on. The iPhone runs normally. Is the original camera broken from the accident or is it possible that I messed something in the process ?
I’de like to hear from you guys your opinion.
Have a good one.
Valentin
Kudos for repairing your phone after it was run over! It’s very possible the camera and/or its flex cable were damaged in the accident. However, flex cable damage can also be inflicted accidentally during repairs. As a first step, try re-seating the camera flex connector in this step and see if that helps. If not, check the cable carefully for damage, and consider replacing the whole camera assembly. Good luck!
Hi I replaced the front camera of iPhone 6s but after installing the phone isn’t turning On
Just changed screen and battery on iphone6s. Works great except now i have light yellow lines on sides and bottom of screen. Only notice when screen has lot of white. Anyway to fix?
Thank you for these instructions. I ordered the cable for about 5 €, spent 2 hours work , and now everything works perfect again.
Sir can we use iphone 6s plus front facing camera complete strip on iphone 6s ??
ottima guida complimenti
Excellent guide. Thanks for making these useful walk throughs. I was able to replace the proximity sensor on my old iPhone 6s. Something that Apple wanted to charge me $200 for and replace the entire screen and front panel. I bought the proximity sensor and camera kit off of Amazon for $7.
Hi, just got the repair kit that came with IPhone 6S battery. I felt that there’s no explanation on which tool to use to remove the two 3.4mm P2 Pentalobe screws. It’s not helpful just to say “Remove the two 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone, next to the Lightning connector. “. It’s more important to explain how and what tool to use. The repair tool kit tools were not marked at all and it’s not right to assume that people know which tool or part to use. Please kindly address this issue. Thanks. Janet
Janet Monaghen - Antwort
@beingchen For the P2 pentalobe screws you should use the driver bit marked P2. Might be a little hard to see but it’s there, etched into the side of the bit.
Jeff Suovanen -
It’s very clear which tool you need. As it says these are “3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws” - so you need a 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screwdriver…
alexanderbrix1987 - Antwort
Just a P2 driver—3.4 mm is the length of the screw.
Jeff Suovanen -
If you can’t identify which screwdriver in the kit to use, you probably shouldn’t be working on your phone. Just sayin’
Keith Hockenbeck - Antwort
This is very useful
https://www.jerryrigeverything.com/wp-co...
sam distefano - Antwort
Is it ok to replace the battery if the phone screen is broken?
Reem - Antwort
Of course! As long as the screen and battery are disconnected from the motherboard, you can replace anything!
Charles Bejarano -
is it possible to change my battery on my iphone 6s and use a battery that has been already used in another 6s
morgan durnford - Antwort
Yeah it would work, but if the battery heath on the 2nd battery is bad, just get a new one.
Charles Bejarano -
@moe6802 Removing the battery can damage it, and it shouldn’t be used afterward. It may seem fine, but even minor battery damage can lead to a fire hazard. Not worth it for such a cheap part. If you need a battery, just get a new one.
Jeff Suovanen -
How do you discharge a battery? Do you just let the battery drain or is there something less time consuming that you can do?
Matthew Petts - Antwort
There is no easy way to discharge the battery in “less time”. Perhaps the fastest way is to play a visually-complex modern game or otherwise make your phone do a lot of work.
Lance J -
So my phone screen is completely black causing me to see nothing that is on my screen. And the battery is above 25%, near 100%. What do I do??
Jessica I - Antwort
you should post a question on the answers forum
Seizure Salad -
you should post a question on the answers forum
Seizure Salad - Antwort
I can’t the screws with the P2, seems that the screws are stuck, what can i do?
Alberto Jabiles - Antwort
My kit came with 3 screws. Are those to replace these 2 P2 screws? And what’s the third one for?
Daniel Morse - Antwort
If it came with 3 screws, then it’s an extra one just in case if a replacement screw gets lost.
Charles Bejarano -
My display is cracked/broken and not functioning. The slide bar doesn’t work. How do I shut down my phone?
Timothy Huss - Antwort
i have replaced several ipod batteries and laptop work, but these screws seem to loose but do not come out. how am i to remove them.shake the iphone?it seems the ioen is not in my kit, is that how to remove them?
this seems idiotic but i remember some other system magnets that firt make your screws easier to keep, but this might be changed….any video? this seems 1st step blues!!!!
makinfilms - Antwort
never ind ishook it… is that in the guide?….iopener is not in the kit……never was before is this an upsell? do i skip it? i dont have it
makinfilms - Antwort
My screws aren’t coming out either. I’ve loosened them, but they aren’t coming out. I’ve shaken the phone, given it some slight bangs…nothing.
Jesse Fisher -
The following info is not given until step 21 in the instructions, and probably too late at that.
DO NOT disconnect or reconnect any of the cables in this device until the battery itself has been disconnected!
Don’t skip that step, intending to do it at the end, as you may damage the phone.
ffissk - Antwort
2 thoughts:
1) Really? Steps 14-17 are about disconnecting the battery first, and step 17 notes “so it doesn’t get reconnected while you work.” How’d you get to step 21 and miss 14-17?
2) These pages are user-editable. (Probably (hopefully) “curated” by iFixit staff.) You should add a warning to step 17 (or step 24).
Bass Clef -
NOW THAT YOU’VE REMOVED 2 SCREWS, and
BEFORE YOU SNEEZE them into oblivion, or under the refrigerator (which is the same in many houses)
MAY I suggest:
1) Obtain:
— a piece of paper, such as normal printer paper (not too much writing on one side)
— a piece of tape, not too sticky, like masking tape (duct tape would be bad)
——— 1-1.5 inches (2.5-4 cm) wide
——— 6-8 inches (15-20 cm) long
— a pencil (or pen)
2) Put the paper on the side of your work area
3) Lay the tape, sticky side up, on the paper
4) Fold each end of the tape (~1 inch/2.5cm) back under itself, so the folded part faces the paper. Press the folded-back tape onto the paper
You now have Sneeze & Wind Insurance for your tiny bits!
5) Put the 2 pentalobes end down on the top end of the tape, next to each other. Push them a little onto the tape so they stick
6) Use your pencil to note on the paper next to the screws: “1. Pentalobes”
Now you may proceed with dissassembly, without worrying about telling the 1.5mm from the 1.6mm screws.
or about sneezing!
Bass Clef - Antwort
My phone has a bad battery and a bad connector and I wasn’t able to get all of my photos before it died. Is there any chance I won’t lose them when I replace the battery? Or, is there any way to charge a 6s battery with a bad connector?
Liz R - Antwort
There is a great chance that photos, which are stored to flash memory, which is solid state memory, which is not affected when power is lost, will be there, right where you left them, once you restore power to your device. You could install a partially charged battery into your phone and then retrieve the important things, like your photos, if you don’t intend to continue using the phone. Else look at replacing the lightning connector assembly. Here: iPhone 6s Lightning Connector Einheit austauschen
TimD -
The P2 is not getting the screws loose at all. I have tried this several times and no budge on my iPhone 6s.
Cassandra Vigil - Antwort
To avoid to be screwed by lost or mixed screws:
- Use magnetic pad, wipeable
- Write the ifixit- steps next to the screws (maybe even with their sizes) and other bits removed
with a non-permanent marker
- When finished, simply wipe the pad, and it’s ready for the next repair
Hope that helps.
Ulrich Janßen - Antwort
I found a pentalobe 1 driver to work much better.
joelkevinjones - Antwort
The suction cup didn’t hold at all. I tried Windex and then hospital grade alcohol, but nothing worked. Finally had to use two exacto knife blades to begin lifting the screen. As soon as I got a little gap, used the spudger tool the rest of the way, The small philips driver didn’t fit the screws exactly, but with a little effort they came out. My battery adhesive strips snapped immediately and I had to remove the original battery the “hard way”. The kit came with replacement display adhesive but no explanation how to use it. I got some on - so better than nothing. Overall I’m happy with the results, and the new battery is charging now.
Daniel Wolf - Antwort
First step problem? Couldn’t get the screws out. I checked my other iPhone and realized the screws were missing!Just started prying it apart.
Hoyt Smith - Antwort
I went through the whole procedure, replaced the battery and got the screen back on. Then the 2 pentalope screws would not go into their sockets. They sink in all the way and spin, but it appears there are no threads to grab. The screen seems to be in position since I can insert a plug into the headphone jack without trouble. Did anyone else have this problem. Using the phone now with no screws. Yikes.
Walter Plante - Antwort
Hi Walter, in case you’re still dealing with this or anyone else has the same problem, check that the screw bosses on the bottom of the screen are straight and line up with the screw holes on the case. They should be at a 90° angle to the screen, but they’re easy to accidentally bend and could’ve gotten flattened against the screen.
Adam O'Camb -
I recommend a loop of tape attached to the table, and placing the screws on the tape in the order they were taken out. identifying the screws to put back is a simple matter of going the other way back up the tape.
David Taylor - Antwort
Did the repair for the second time, each time faster and easier. This steps by step is amazing and crystal clear no mistake possible.
Jean-Gabriel Duquesnoy - Antwort