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Einleitung

Anhand dieser Schritt-für-Schritt-Anleitung kannst du das Flachbandkabel mit dem Lightning Connector an einem iPhone austauschen. An diesem Kabel ist der Lightning Connector, die Kopfhörerbuchse, das duale Mikrofon und die Federkontakte für die Taptic Engine und den Lautsprecher angebracht.

  1. Führe ein SIM-Kartenauswurf-Werkzeug oder eine Büroklammer in das kleine Loch im SIM-Kartenfach ein. Drücke, damit das Fach herauskommt.
    • Führe ein SIM-Kartenauswurf-Werkzeug oder eine Büroklammer in das kleine Loch im SIM-Kartenfach ein.

    • Drücke, damit das Fach herauskommt.

    • Du musst vielleicht ganz schön kräftig drücken.

  2. Entferne die SIM-Fach-Einheit aus dem iPhone.
    • Entferne die SIM-Fach-Einheit aus dem iPhone.

    • Wenn du die SIM-Karte wieder einsetzt, achte darauf, dass sie richtig zum Fach hin ausgerichtet ist.

  3. Entlade den Akku auf unter 25%, bevor du beginnst dein iPhone zu zerlegen. Ein geladener Lithium-Ionen Akku kann Feuer fangen oder explodieren, wenn er aus Versehen beschädigt wird.
    • Entlade den Akku auf unter 25%, bevor du beginnst dein iPhone zu zerlegen. Ein geladener Lithium-Ionen Akku kann Feuer fangen oder explodieren, wenn er aus Versehen beschädigt wird.

    • Schalte das iPhone aus, bevor du mit der Demontage beginnst.

    • Entferne die beiden 3,4 mm P2 Pentalobe Schrauben an der Unterseite des iPhones neben dem Lightning-Anschluss.

    Hi, just got the repair kit that came with IPhone 6S battery. I felt that there’s no explanation on which tool to use to remove the two 3.4mm P2 Pentalobe screws. It’s not helpful just to say “Remove the two 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone, next to the Lightning connector. “. It’s more important to explain how and what tool to use. The repair tool kit tools were not marked at all and it’s not right to assume that people know which tool or part to use. Please kindly address this issue. Thanks. Janet

    Janet Monaghen - Antwort

    @beingchen For the P2 pentalobe screws you should use the driver bit marked P2. Might be a little hard to see but it’s there, etched into the side of the bit.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    It’s very clear which tool you need. As it says these are “3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws” - so you need a 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screwdriver…

    alexanderbrix1987 - Antwort

    Just a P2 driver—3.4 mm is the length of the screw.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    If you can’t identify which screwdriver in the kit to use, you probably shouldn’t be working on your phone. Just sayin’

    Keith Hockenbeck - Antwort

    Is it ok to replace the battery if the phone screen is broken?

    Reem - Antwort

    Of course! As long as the screen and battery are disconnected from the motherboard, you can replace anything!

    Charles Bejarano -

    is it possible to change my battery on my iphone 6s and use a battery that has been already used in another 6s

    morgan durnford - Antwort

    Yeah it would work, but if the battery heath on the 2nd battery is bad, just get a new one.

    Charles Bejarano -

    @moe6802 Removing the battery can damage it, and it shouldn’t be used afterward. It may seem fine, but even minor battery damage can lead to a fire hazard. Not worth it for such a cheap part. If you need a battery, just get a new one.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    How do you discharge a battery? Do you just let the battery drain or is there something less time consuming that you can do?

    Matthew Petts - Antwort

    There is no easy way to discharge the battery in “less time”. Perhaps the fastest way is to play a visually-complex modern game or otherwise make your phone do a lot of work.

    Lance J -

    So my phone screen is completely black causing me to see nothing that is on my screen. And the battery is above 25%, near 100%. What do I do??

    Jessica I - Antwort

    you should post a question on the answers forum

    Max Li -

    you should post a question on the answers forum

    Max Li - Antwort

  4. Das Öffnen des Displays vom 6s erfordert das Trennen eines dünnen Klebestreifens, der einmal außen am Gehäuse verläuft. Wenn du bevorzugst den Kleber zu ersetzen, bereite jetzt passende Klebestreifen vor. Es ist aber möglich, die Reparatur ohne Ersetzen des Klebers zu beenden, und wahrscheinlich merkst du keinen Unterschied in der Funktionalität.
    • Das Öffnen des Displays vom 6s erfordert das Trennen eines dünnen Klebestreifens, der einmal außen am Gehäuse verläuft. Wenn du bevorzugst den Kleber zu ersetzen, bereite jetzt passende Klebestreifen vor. Es ist aber möglich, die Reparatur ohne Ersetzen des Klebers zu beenden, und wahrscheinlich merkst du keinen Unterschied in der Funktionalität.

    • Wenn du keinen iSclack zur Verfügung hast, verwende einen Saugnapf, um das Front Panel anzuheben:

    • Presse den Saugnapf oberhalb des Home Buttons gegen das Display.

    Hello, I was wondering if there was a guide of how to replace the adhesive strips, thank you

    Pablo Reyes - Antwort

    The suction cup will not work if you have a shattered screen. I put a tip of an exacto knife between the glass and side frame above the power connector, carefully pried up then used the spluger to pry the rest of the way up.

    johnmurphyjr - Antwort

    Tape will work as well in order to create a smooth surface

    Nick Stine -

    Even tape didn’t work on my first shattered screen 6S disassembly. Had to reset to the exacto/thin blade technique.

    Peter Bovey - Antwort

    For me, it seemed like I only had one shot at the suction cup. It stuck on firmly the first time, but I noticed in the instructions that it was placed more on the side. I detached my suction cup and repositioned it and now it doesn’t stay (sucked) on. Hmmm.

    Frank Terence - Antwort

    Can you use the iSclack opener to open the iPhone 6s?

    Joe Koffee - Antwort

    The iSclack is helpful, although you have to use it a bit differently than you would on, say, a 5s or 6. The iSclack alone isn’t strong enough to pop the display open, because of all the adhesive around the perimeter of the 6s display. But you can use it to lift the display just enough to get a tool in there and start cutting the adhesive. Basically, the iSclack does the same job as the suction cup shown here, with maybe a bit less fuss.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    My screen was SUPER shattered… the hair dryer did the trick. Patience it definitely the key… I tried putting tape over the glass but the suction cup wouldn’t stick to it at all but it stuck to the broken glass for a few seconds. I taped it up when I was finally able to move onto the next steps to keep the glass from getting everywhere then peeled it off for Step 10.

    Mandy Ng - Antwort

    Hi, it looks like, from reading the comments, that separating the display assembly from the phone is a tricky step.

    Would the piece of equipment, in the link below, be any use at this stage? Seems it could be used for all makes and models.

    Any info would be appreciated.

    https://youtu.be/8it4o9tx8tQ

    Michael Magor - Antwort

    I have a screen protector on my phone. I was wondering if it was going to be problem for the suction cup.

    jeffreyleung2002 - Antwort

    I can only suggest to use a hair dryer to loosen up the adhesive underneath the display. Mine was stuck so hard it wouldn't barely move. After warming ist up I could softly pull ist up with way less power

    olonetzky - Antwort

    A question, has anyone had success removing a cracked (not shattered) screen? My phone has a single diagonal crack from the top right corner down to the left side. Will the suction cup still work?

    goblazers - Antwort

  5. Halte das iPhone mit einer Hand fest und ziehe am Saugnapf, um das Front Panel vom hinteren Gehäuse zu trennen. Nimm dir Zeit und übe konstante, starke Kraft auf den Saugnapf aus. Die Displayeinheit sitzt im Vergleich zu anderen Geräten sehr fest.
    • Halte das iPhone mit einer Hand fest und ziehe am Saugnapf, um das Front Panel vom hinteren Gehäuse zu trennen.

    • Nimm dir Zeit und übe konstante, starke Kraft auf den Saugnapf aus. Die Displayeinheit sitzt im Vergleich zu anderen Geräten sehr fest.

    • Wenn du zu stark ziehst, könnte die Display-Einheit beschädigt werden. Wende genau so viel Kraft auf, dass ein kleiner Spalt zwischen Rear Case und Display Einheit entsteht.

    No, really. Do this on a table and use less strength than you think. If you open the display the whole way at this step you can easily rip the home button connections and one of several display connections at the top. <— too much experience... :(

    chuymatt - Antwort

    Wow, that was tough. Patience, patience, patience. Did not use the iOpener, just firm and consistent pulling with the phone on a flat surface. When the suction cup comes off... clean the display surface and go back at it. I did use the pointed end of a spudger inserted into the headphone jack to hold down the bottom case whilst I pulled on the suction cup. Once there was sufficient room (see next step) you can just get the spudger (flat end) to slide in slightly.

    plisi - Antwort

    If you're lifting up on the glass, how are you supposed to hold the rest of the phone down? Is it by holding the camera end down with the side of your hand and rotating your hand, or using your other hand (not pictured) on the edges (seems very difficult), or using a spudger in a jack?

    Bryan - Antwort

    I got a fingernail on the metal edge and that did the trick.

    David Heinbach -

    On the 6s, which has an annoying black adhesive strip holding the display assembly on, I use the iSclack to loosen a very small area near the home button then insert a thin spudger and gently twist it a bit to release the adhesive. Do this around the bottom and both sides of the phone to release the screen. I usually have to break some of the adhesive strands when the opening is big enough.

    scentaur - Antwort

    My spudgers just too thick for initial insertion. In the end, fingernail on my thumb got me started, and I was able to get plastic picks in there to work it. The microwavable iOpener gel strip really helped.

    Heidi Moser - Antwort

    Thanks plisi, your comments are helpful. I had to apply pressure several different times. Didnt realize until about the seventh time applying pressure that what I was doing was slowly loosening the adhesive. Patience is truly the key with this step. You may not think you're progressing but it's slowly prying away.

    amylofton - Antwort

    What happens if the cup won't even stick to the display because it is cracked and it will not hold air near the bottom of the phone?

    Jaredrett - Antwort

    hey everyone, i just did my first iphone 6S display...after many 5, 5c, and 5s iphones...just keep trying and carefully insert the spunger where they said...right around the headphone jack. The black adhesive makes it very tough to get it off unless you work at one corner. Be careful...but you can do it! ;-)

    David Althaus - Antwort

    Use a razor, and go along the outside of the phone carevilly using the razor as a spudger. it will efficiently cut and weaken the adhesive while spudging the screen away from the frame. only takes 15 mins.... Use a workbench razor, not a flimsy one. If possible, use one where one side of the razor has a gaurd on it for better grip. Take it slow and try not to scratch the frame. Lots of pressure and patience is key!!!

    Goodluck!!

    -J

    Jaredrett - Antwort

    The first time you pull it apart there's black glue tape that you'll have to compete with to get it open. Be careful

    Jeff - Antwort

    Use a hairdryer about 2-3 inches from the phone on high heat for about a minute, moving the dryer the entire time. The phone opened for me in less than a minute after trying for several minutes without heating up the phone.

    Todd Leach - Antwort

    Careful ..delicate work. I also used a hot hair dryer around the perimeter for just a couple minutes to help loosen the adhesive bond. I then used my sadly short finger nail to help loosen the edge. I placed dental floss under the corner & carefully lifted the display very very slowly. This worked within about 3 minutes. As mentioned earlier the adhesive used in the iPhone 6s is very strong but this routine worked like a charm & was quick!

    Mary Blocher - Antwort

    Much easier to do using the Spudger that is provided in the Pro Tool Kit. It has a thinner fin type head. The Spudger provided in this repair kit is definitely too thick and makes it far more difficult.

    Tyler Brady - Antwort

    The spudger is too thick and the glue is too strong. Pulling up broke the glass below the power button. Now I am out $200 for a repair, plus a battery. Bummer. I am VERY good at repairing things. The adhesive on this is very very strong. The pentalobe tip that they send with the kits not milled well and I had to take a file and flatten the tip to get it to work - it is not finished well at all. I used the kit for the iPhone 6 for my Mom and had no problem. I am 51 and have been fixing things since I was very young.

    greghabiby - Antwort

    Well, I shattered my screen trying to do this. So now I need a battery and screen repair. Not happy.

    Carolann Parran - Antwort

    Me too! Be gentle!

    Matthew Simoenau -

    Removing the display was the hardest part of the whole job. The adhesive is very strong, but just be patient. What I ended up doing was to use the suction cup, the flat end of the spudger, and an iFixit opening tool. I used the suction cup on the screen as directed. Then I placed the flat end of the spudger just a bit into the charging port and held down the phone body by the spudger on my work mat. I pulled up on the suction cup, pushed down on the spudger, and inserted the thin iFixit opening tool in the small seperation. I took my time and worked my way around all of the edges. After that it was really easy. I was able to reuse the adhesive, and my new battery install went just as planned.

    Eric Olson - Antwort

    Use a hair dryer as per the suggestions and this will definitely make the job easier and reducing the risk of breaking the display . Keep a steady pull of the display, don’t rush and it will start to show the small separation gap. An issue is that it will go back in place if you stop pulling before you can use the spudger tool. The suction tool that came with my repair kit did not have a ring on it as per the guide picture. It has a blue handle that is open on the side. I sat at my kitchen desk and opened a drawer. I hooked the open edge of the suction handle around the drawer side edge which me a third hand. I held the phone with one hand and pulled it away from the desk drawer. Once the separation started I could use my other hand with the flat edge of the spudger to complete the separation. Hope this helps.

    emaneht - Antwort

    Hair dryer - 1 minute until it’s hot like a fresh mug of coffee. Then as soon as you see the smallest gap, insert a razor blade above the phones jack, I needed to slide it towards the charge port and back. Once it slips in keep it there and use your spudger to enlarge the gap and slide it along the corners.

    Steve Esson - Antwort

    Yes, I used the tip of a sharp knife as a pry tool to get me started. Since the screen was cracked anyway I figured I had nothing to lose. It went fine.

    David Heinbach -

    Also tried it with the hair dryer - worked like a charm. 5 Minutes and the phone was open. The whole repair procedure took me about 45 minutes, and was ok. Re-assembling the three display-connectors has been a bit tricky, but with careful movements and taking the time it needs it was not a big problem. New display is very good, phone looks like new :-)

    Christian Woelk - Antwort

  6. Es befindet sich eine Kerbe an der Unterseite des Displays, genau über der Kopfhörer-Buchse. Hier solltest du mit dem Spudger ansetzen. Platziere den flachen Teil des Spudgers in der Lücke zwischen Display und Rückgehäuse, direkt über der Kopfhörer-Buchse.
    • Es befindet sich eine Kerbe an der Unterseite des Displays, genau über der Kopfhörer-Buchse. Hier solltest du mit dem Spudger ansetzen.

    • Platziere den flachen Teil des Spudgers in der Lücke zwischen Display und Rückgehäuse, direkt über der Kopfhörer-Buchse.

    WARNING: easy to stretch/ruin the adhesive

    As you proceed, know that you must keep ALL of the adhesive stuck to the phone. If any stays stuck to display, it can become permanently stretched as you are prying and lifting. Then you’ll need to buy the replacement adhesive, once it’s back in stock!

    Jason - Antwort

    If you’re opening the phone at all, you’re compromising the adhesive. There is absolutely no way to somehow open it perfectly so you can re-use it. Fortunately, it’s cheap and fairly easy to replace—and not even that critical on the 6s series anyway, since it’s not doing any real waterproofing.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I had a badly cracked screen. Packing tape helped the suction cup stick. Heating the phone helped soften the adhesive, and in the end I pried the screen up at the headphone jack with a sharp pointy knife. That helped me get the spudger underneath. Not recommended if the screen is ok, like for a battery replacement, but mine was cracked so I figured I had nothing to lose. Great guide.

    David Heinbach - Antwort

    There are two relatively delicate brackets that the two P2 Pentalobe screws screw into. They can be easily bent during this prying open process. I ruined one on my phone and I’m hoping the phone will function with just one bracket.

    dougdalglish - Antwort

  7. Drehe den Spudger in eine hochkante Position, um die Lücke zwischen Display-Einheit und dem Rest des iPhones zu vergrößern. Drehe den Spudger in eine hochkante Position, um die Lücke zwischen Display-Einheit und dem Rest des iPhones zu vergrößern.
    • Drehe den Spudger in eine hochkante Position, um die Lücke zwischen Display-Einheit und dem Rest des iPhones zu vergrößern.

    No need to turn the spudger full 90°. Just turn it a little.

    Martin Born - Antwort

  8. Füge das flache Ende auf der linken Seite des iPhones ein, zwischen Display-Einheit und Rückgehäuse. Fahre mit dem Spudger auf der linken Seite in Richtung obere Hälfte des iPhones, um den Kleber zu trennen und die Klammern zu lösen.
    • Füge das flache Ende auf der linken Seite des iPhones ein, zwischen Display-Einheit und Rückgehäuse.

    • Fahre mit dem Spudger auf der linken Seite in Richtung obere Hälfte des iPhones, um den Kleber zu trennen und die Klammern zu lösen.

    I’ve found it very easy to open the phone with one of the blue opening picks.

    Just slide it along the left and right side of the display.

    Martin Born - Antwort

    Excellent idea. No matter which tool you use take your time so not to damage the display assembly further. Even a cracked screen is a great test tool or spare to use while doing other repairs when it still comes on.

    Bryan Solo -

    Do not go into the top left corner too far your screen will crack i learned the hard way

    Kevin - Antwort

  9. Entferne den Spudger und füge ihn erneut im unteren Teil des Gerätes ein, genau dort wo du mit dem Öffnen begonnen hast. Fahre mit dem Spudger in Richtung rechte  untere Ecke des iPhones.
    • Entferne den Spudger und füge ihn erneut im unteren Teil des Gerätes ein, genau dort wo du mit dem Öffnen begonnen hast.

    • Fahre mit dem Spudger in Richtung rechte untere Ecke des iPhones.

  10. Fahre mit dem Spudger weiter die rechte Seite hoch, löse dadurch den Kleber und die noch festsitzenden Klammern. Fahre mit dem Spudger weiter die rechte Seite hoch, löse dadurch den Kleber und die noch festsitzenden Klammern.
    • Fahre mit dem Spudger weiter die rechte Seite hoch, löse dadurch den Kleber und die noch festsitzenden Klammern.

  11. Nutze den Saugnapf, um das Display zu öffnen, dadurch sollte auch der letzte festsitzende Kleber entfernt werden. Öffne das Display nicht weiter als 90°, da es immer noch durch drei Kabel mit dem Telefon verbunden ist.
    • Nutze den Saugnapf, um das Display zu öffnen, dadurch sollte auch der letzte festsitzende Kleber entfernt werden.

    • Öffne das Display nicht weiter als 90°, da es immer noch durch drei Kabel mit dem Telefon verbunden ist.

    Prop it up on something

    Nick Stine - Antwort

    an old iPhone box and a rubber band lightly around the display works great to hold it at 90

    Christa - Antwort

  12. Ziehe an der Kunststoff-Noppe, um die Vakuumversiegelung am Saugnapf zu lösen. Entferne dann den Saugnapf von der Displayeinheit. Ziehe an der Kunststoff-Noppe, um die Vakuumversiegelung am Saugnapf zu lösen. Entferne dann den Saugnapf von der Displayeinheit.
    • Ziehe an der Kunststoff-Noppe, um die Vakuumversiegelung am Saugnapf zu lösen. Entferne dann den Saugnapf von der Displayeinheit.

  13. Öffne das iPhone, indem du das Home Button-Ende des Front Panels vom hinteren Gehäuse wegklappst und dabei die Oberkante des Mobiltelefons als Scharnier verwendest. Öffne das Display um ca. 90 Grad und lehne es gegen etwas, damit es abgestützt ist, während du am Gerät arbeitest. Befestige das Display mit einem Gummiband, während du arbeitest. Das verhindert ein ungewolltes Dehnen der Displaykabel.
    • Öffne das iPhone, indem du das Home Button-Ende des Front Panels vom hinteren Gehäuse wegklappst und dabei die Oberkante des Mobiltelefons als Scharnier verwendest.

    • Öffne das Display um ca. 90 Grad und lehne es gegen etwas, damit es abgestützt ist, während du am Gerät arbeitest.

    • Befestige das Display mit einem Gummiband, während du arbeitest. Das verhindert ein ungewolltes Dehnen der Displaykabel.

    • Zur Not hilft eine ungeöffnete Getränkedose.

    Smart idea :)

    x226 - Antwort

    on the third picture, the screen is opened more than 90 degrees.

    Mirza Zohaib - Antwort

    It said about 90 degrees

    Nick Stine -

    In the second picture I was originally wondering what that diagonal piece of material was. Now that I've done a repair I can say that it's the sticky adhesive around the edge of the phone lifting up with the screen.

    jonl - Antwort

  14. Entferne die beiden folgenden Kreuzschlitz Schrauben von der Kabelabdeckung des Akkuanschlusses.
    • Entferne die beiden folgenden Kreuzschlitz Schrauben von der Kabelabdeckung des Akkuanschlusses.

    • Eine 2,9 mm Schraube

    • Eine 2,2 mm Schraube

    In order to put the correct screw back where you took it out mark the head surface and a small dot beside the hole with a pen. Use coloured pens if you want the exact location for each screw/hole. This goes for steps 17, (23) and 29 too.

    lionno1 - Antwort

    Please! Please! Please! Invest in a Magnetic Project Mat or its equivalent from fixit. It will assist you with completing your repair.

    Ian Baldwin - Antwort

    I just taped down a 8.5 x 11 white piece of paper on my desk and drew a rough image of it, then ‘taped’ the screw I removed to the “image” on paper. It worked just fine. (My first time ever opening an iphone, so give it a shot!)

    italianchick99 - Antwort

    If you missed it from the beginning (like I did) it’s the #000 Philips for all screws except the Pentalobes.

    Max Cox - Antwort

    if you get a plastic ice cube tray, and a fine marker pen, text the sizes on each cube compartment as you follow the guide, also stops the screws getting lost

    Brendan Cranny - Antwort

  15. Entferne die Kabelabdeckung des Akkuanschlusses. Entferne die Kabelabdeckung des Akkuanschlusses.
    • Entferne die Kabelabdeckung des Akkuanschlusses.

  16. Heble den Akkustecker mit dem spitzen Ende eines Spudgers vorsichtig von seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board. Heble den Akkustecker mit dem spitzen Ende eines Spudgers vorsichtig von seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board. Heble den Akkustecker mit dem spitzen Ende eines Spudgers vorsichtig von seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board.
    • Heble den Akkustecker mit dem spitzen Ende eines Spudgers vorsichtig von seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board.

    Be sure not to skip this step. It is crucial. I have had many repairs where the screen will not light up after the repair if the battery had not been disconnected and reconnected.

    Andrew spoelstra - Antwort

    Thanks for the tip, Andrew.

    William Turner -

    It should also be mentioned, DO NOT USE A METAL SPUDGER. You could short the battery to other nearby metal parts. I've done that, the battery clip arced to the metal cover on some of the logic board chips, and my phone wouldn't power back on for 3 days. They should put a caution caption on this step. I've had this happen on a 5S as well.

    Frank - Antwort

    Thanks for the tip, Frank.

    William Turner -

    SERIOUS WARNING!: During *reassembly*, you should NOT reconnect the battery connector until the VERY LAST step (upon reassembly!), as many people, including myself, apparently have smoked (burned, destroyed) the main Logic board. This happens when you reconnect the LCD/digitizer assembly FPC cable. ifixit should modify this instruction to be very explicit about this!

    enoughstatic - Antwort

  17. Drücke den Akkustecker vom Logic Board weg, so dass es während der Reparatur nicht zu einer unbeabsichtigten Verbindung mit dem Anschluss kommt. Drücke den Akkustecker vom Logic Board weg, so dass es während der Reparatur nicht zu einer unbeabsichtigten Verbindung mit dem Anschluss kommt.
    • Drücke den Akkustecker vom Logic Board weg, so dass es während der Reparatur nicht zu einer unbeabsichtigten Verbindung mit dem Anschluss kommt.

    If you remove the grey bar with the word “TAPTIC” next, removal of the battery adhesive is much easier. It can be pulled straighter back with less chance of tearing. Here’s an image with the securing screws identified.

    If you securely anchor the screen to a can of soup, it is not necessary complete step 16 Front Panel Assembly. I was able to remove the two bottom (1.2 mm) screws and the 2.8 mm screw, but could not get the upper (1.2 mm) screw. I was able to remove the old battery with the Front Panel Assembly left in place.

    Edward Dziuk - Antwort

    Amazing tip Edward, I followed your tip exactly and agree to definitely remove the “TAPTIC”

    italianchick99 -

    Hi what it is called black cover between battery connector and sim card tray? Thanks

    Rajendra - Antwort

  18. Entferne die folgenden vier Kreuzschlitz Schrauben, die  die Kabelhalterung befestigen:
    • Entferne die folgenden vier Kreuzschlitz Schrauben, die die Kabelhalterung befestigen:

    • Drei 1,2 mm Schrauben

    • Eine 2,8 mm Schraube

    Thank you for this great guide!

    I was able to skip removing the display assembly and logic board steps and lay the speaker upside down on the bottom edge of the logic board without putting undue pressure on the antenna cable making this a much easier and quicker repair for me. If you choose to leave the display assembly connected, I recommend using a rubber band to hold it to a box of similar size at a 90 degree angle to prevent damage and stress to the attached cables.

    So, the steps I skipped were Steps 16 through 34 and Steps 37 through 45.

    scentaur - Antwort

    The 1.2mm screw in the top left corner is refusing to come out, any help?

    Harry Allinson - Antwort

    I’m also having this issue now, what did you do to get the screw out?

    Belmin Husanovic -

    why does the battery fix kit not include the #00 bit needed to unscrew all 3 1.2mm screws?!?! !#^&@@ off.

    robertdjclark - Antwort

    Either a #00 or a #000 bit should work fine here. Some #0 bits will also work if the point is fine enough. Same goes for a lot of JIS bits. As long as it doesn't strip or slip, you're good.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    My kit's screwdriver failed about the time I got to the last few steps in this tutorial. I had a cheap precision set with a #000 bit but that refused to seat in the screws. I went to Home Depot, bought a lifetime guarantee Husky precision set with #0000 through #0 bits and that worked beautifully on every screw.

    David Shaddock - Antwort

    The screwdriver in my kit doesn't remove the bottom two screws! any reason why?

    anujfolsom - Antwort

    I actually followed all the guide but isn’t the front panel disassembly skippable? And if so what are the benefits of removing it? Cause i had quite a hard time putting back in the connectors of the 3 flex cables.

    GiovanniB - Antwort

    I have the 6s from Dubai. the top left screw is different with the rest. I am stuck on this screw. i am clue less why this top left + screw.

    Anyone have the same issue?

    Evander Lorenz - Antwort

    A precision screwdriver set is a wise investment for doing any of this work. I got a set from iFixit that is very well machined. Don’t expect the cheap drivers with kits to last more than one disassembly-assembly, if that! Also don’t keep mangled bits or drivers…throw them out!!!

    Peter Bovey - Antwort

    what crews  should I use in this step PH000. OR Y000 OR P2 Plz help me

    mshary alzhrany - Antwort

    The kit provided with the replacement Battery of iPhone 6s does not include the right bits to remove the three 1,2mm screws! I had to remove it without removing the display.

    Matthias Wagner - Antwort

    I too experienced a problem with the size of the screwdriver here (supplied in the iFixit kit.) My phone also had a 5th screw right in the center of the plate - another 1.2mm. I removed and replace it without problems.

    Scott Young - Antwort

    @scottvyoung Sounds like you’re working on an iPhone 6. These instructions are for the 6s.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Screws are very small and very difficult to put back in!! Lost 2-3 screws

    Put phone back together and of course doesnt work Waste of Money!

    Thomas Kintigh - Antwort

    I purchased a “screw set” for an i-Phone 5 and have slowly been cannibalizing it whenever I lose a screw. It has been invaluable and the set includes enough screws that I have been able to cover all that have been dropped and lost for 3 i-Phones now. Using a magnetic mat has also limited my screw loss considerably! All of these items were purchased through IFIXIT at very reasonable cost. Thank you IFIXIT!

    Peter Bovey -

    The ifixit kit supplied screwdriver for the display cable bracket did NOT fit. (disappointing) So, I used scentar’s (comment above) method of a large rubber band wrapped around a book weighted kit box to hold it at 90 degrees. Leaving the screen attached and then removing and replacing the battery.

    laffinbuz - Antwort

    I had a problem reassembling the iPhone, my touchId wasn’t working any more even if the home button was working correctly. I don’t know why but loosening these 4 screw a bit made it work again. If I tight them again it doesn’t work. Maybe this can help someone.

    Alex Mufatti - Antwort

    @alexmufatti I had the same exact issue and luckily came across the same solution by trial and error. However a few weeks later Touch ID suddenly stopped working again and I think it’s the same issue. I was hoping somebody came across a more permanent solution.

    Michel Chemas -

    I was nervous not following this guide step-by-step, but as others mentioned I did not have the correct ‘bit’ size to remove the 3 screws circled in ‘red’ in the above diagram. I skipped steps 17, 18, 19 BUT used the ‘tip’ in step 11 to prop the front screen without removing the front display completely and I was still able to replace battery.

    italianchick99 - Antwort

    how to measure the screw? from the head or from under the head?

    Balieltello - Antwort

  19. Entferne die Abdeckung der Displaykabel. Entferne die Abdeckung der Displaykabel.
    • Entferne die Abdeckung der Displaykabel.

  20. Löse mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers oder einem Fingernagel den Stecker des Frontkamerakabels von seinem Anschluss vom Logic Board, indem du es gerade nach oben hebelst. Löse mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers oder einem Fingernagel den Stecker des Frontkamerakabels von seinem Anschluss vom Logic Board, indem du es gerade nach oben hebelst.
    • Löse mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers oder einem Fingernagel den Stecker des Frontkamerakabels von seinem Anschluss vom Logic Board, indem du es gerade nach oben hebelst.

    Note carefully the order that they are removed.  My new display had them in the WRONG order and I spent about 2 minutes trying to figure out what was wrong until I compared the new screen with the old screen and saw that they were in wrong sequence.  Fortunately they were relatively easy to fold out of the way and put them in the right order.  After that they popped right into place.  The new cables don’t have the “fold” yet so display had to be held at 90 degrees until all three were installed and the cover reattached.

    David Rogers - Antwort

    I pop up these screen connectors using my fingernail. After doing a lot of repairs, this is the easiest and fastest way to get them loose.

    Kenneth Hilstan - Antwort

    pad under earspeaker is lost, where to buy?

    Balieltello - Antwort

  21. Löse mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers oder einem Fingernagel den Stecker des Digitizerkabels vom Logic Board, indem du es gerade nach oben hebelst. Wenn du das Kabel wieder verbindest drücke nicht in der Mitte des Steckers. Drücke erst an einem Ende, dann am gegenüberliegenden. Beim Drücken in der Mitte des Kabels kann der Stecker verbiegen und beschädigt werden.
    • Löse mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers oder einem Fingernagel den Stecker des Digitizerkabels vom Logic Board, indem du es gerade nach oben hebelst.

    • Wenn du das Kabel wieder verbindest drücke nicht in der Mitte des Steckers. Drücke erst an einem Ende, dann am gegenüberliegenden. Beim Drücken in der Mitte des Kabels kann der Stecker verbiegen und beschädigt werden.

    I can't seem to get the digitizer cable to snap back into place. Any suggestions?

    gbmazur - Antwort

    Yes--if you, like me, could not get the digitizer connector to seat, you've probably got confused on the reassembly order. I had to remove the EMI shield (seven screws), and reinstall it ON TOP of the big flap tongue that comes with the new digitizer, rearranging the order of the connector tails. Note that one of the connectors is a bit shorter than the other, and one of the receptacles on the iPhone is shorter as well. Make sure you're laying down the tails and connectors in the right order when you reassemble! The display data cable--sideways to the others, toward the outer edge, goes first. Then the longer connector, and finally the shorter one. When they're seated, they're seated, and you'll be sure of it.

    David Shaddock - Antwort

    Patience. I had trouble but after some time got it back in. Didn’t have to rearrange anything like above ^. Maybe the design was changed.

    Cbirdsey - Antwort

  22. Löse mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers oder einem Fingernagel den Stecker des Displaydatenkabels von seinem Anschluss vom Logic Board, indem du es gerade nach oben hebelst. Löse mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers oder einem Fingernagel den Stecker des Displaydatenkabels von seinem Anschluss vom Logic Board, indem du es gerade nach oben hebelst.
    • Löse mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers oder einem Fingernagel den Stecker des Displaydatenkabels von seinem Anschluss vom Logic Board, indem du es gerade nach oben hebelst.

    I notice there are 3 flex cables, does this disassembly guide apply to the verizon version of iPhone 6s? I don't want to order the wrong digitizer screen for my new and improved iPhone that i somehow managed to crack the screen on.

    Bailey Duncan - Antwort

    There are four cables to disconnect here to complete this process, at least on my phone. The replacement screen also had 4, so no problem.

    Scott Young - Antwort

    I am having a hard time reattaching the LCD cable. Is it possible I bent the connectors? Or possibly the gaskets around it are interfering? I’d like to just pull all of that waterproofing gasket off! >:(

    Amanda Cooper (Doula) - Antwort

    Did you end up going this? My screen is black so I'm trying to figure out what i did

    Alex Tanner -

    I neglected to detach the battery before taking this step and upon reassembly I have no display. What might be my next step to repair.

    Dennis Gagomiros - Antwort

    You can try reseating the cables, but the likely answer is that your logic board’s backlight circuit is blown. If you power on your phone and you can see an image on the display by shining a bright light on it, your backlight circuit is toast. This is a common repair and very fixable, but requires microsoldering equipment and expertise. It’s not a DIY.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I made the same mistake and I'm wondering if you got a fix for it? Is the damage done on the screen assembly or phone itself?

    goesprotocall -

    My screen replacement only comes with two flex cables but all of the videos are showing three. It is not working to connect the flex cables to the connectors

    cellabella1 - Antwort

    The third flex cable would be for the front-facing camera, sensors, etc. If you bought a display that doesn’t include those components, you’ll need to transfer them to your new display first, and then you’ll be able to install it and plug everything in. The instructions are over here. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

  23. Entferne die Displayeinheit.
    • Entferne die Displayeinheit.

    If you're replacing the adhesive, be sure to check the two tabs on the display that receive the pentalobe screws before setting the display on the new adhesive. The tabs on my display were bent inward slightly—just out of reach of the pentalobe screws. I didn't bend these out before setting the display and was forced to re-open the display to adjust them, ruining my carefully placed adhesive.

    cdinger - Antwort

    There is no need to remove camera or the logic board if all you want to do is replace the lightning assembly. Leaving things in place will save you a number of steps. Proceed directly to Step 35 and save yourself all this work.

    Ira Goldman - Antwort

    Also read comments on step 37 as others have also pointed out that there is no need to pull logic board and you can skip those steps mentioned.

    Ira Goldman - Antwort

    Unless you are replacing the speaker you can skip to step 34 as there is no need to remove the logic board.

    Bryan Solo - Antwort

    My replacement display was not functional, but I didn’t test it until after my adhesive was already applied. Might be worth double-checking the replacement screen works before applying the adhesive at all. (though I’m glad I tried it before closing it up!)

    Ben - Antwort

    When reconnecting to the logic board, reverse the order, so display first, then digitizer and finally camera. The front pannel slides into small edge of the backchannel. So start at the top when you put front and back together.

    Joep Willemsen - Antwort

    be sure battery is disconnected before reassembling the display —in case you reconnected it to position battery

    Christa - Antwort

  24. Hebe das Antennenkabel am unteren Ende des Logic Boards  mit der Spudgerspitze an und löse es ab. Hebe das Antennenkabel am unteren Ende des Logic Boards  mit der Spudgerspitze an und löse es ab.
    • Hebe das Antennenkabel am unteren Ende des Logic Boards mit der Spudgerspitze an und löse es ab.

    Do not remove the isolation on top of the antenna or it will stop working. If you already removed it, use a piece of isolation tape to isolate it again.

    Jan - Antwort

    There is no instruction on how to reconnect this antenna cable, and it is proving extremely difficult, at least for myself… Please help!

    Brennan Lutkewitte - Antwort

    To reconnect antenna cables like these to the socket, carefully align the connector to the socket, then use the flat end of a spudger to press down. It should click in place. If not, check for alignment. Do not use excessive force.

    Arthur Shi -

    What does this cable do?

    Because accidentaly broke mine, but everything working fine, just want to be sure , what does it for!

    I broke at the end, when the gold round is. Somehow i placed the cable with that round ring , just to be sure , thst there is some contact with it, and pluged in!

    I know, i need to change the whole bracket with charging port etc., to fix the cable, cause i cant solder the conector back. But maybe i can just ignore the cable?

    sekuent - Antwort

    Hi Sekuent,

    That cable attaches to possibly cellular antennas. It may be that certain bands are impacted by the break.

    Arthur Shi -

    Some more research may indicate that it may instead be the 2.4GHz Wi-Fi bands.

    Arthur Shi -

    Can i solder the wire with the plug round myself? Is it safe to do that?

    sekuent - Antwort

    If you have soldering skills, definitely! Note that you have to solder the wire to wire. You can’t solder the wire to the round plug as it’s ground and not signal.

    Arthur Shi -

  25. Hebe den Stecker am Flachbandkabel zum Lightning Connector mit der Spudgerspitze hoch und löse es aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board. Hebe den Stecker am Flachbandkabel zum Lightning Connector mit der Spudgerspitze hoch und löse es aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board.
    • Hebe den Stecker am Flachbandkabel zum Lightning Connector mit der Spudgerspitze hoch und löse es aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board.

  26. Hebe das Antennenkabel am oberen Ende des Logic Boards mit der Spudgerspitze an und löse es aus seinem Anschluss. Hebe das Antennenkabel am oberen Ende des Logic Boards mit der Spudgerspitze an und löse es aus seinem Anschluss.
    • Hebe das Antennenkabel am oberen Ende des Logic Boards mit der Spudgerspitze an und löse es aus seinem Anschluss.

    Do not remove the isolation on top of the antenna or it will stop working. If you already removed it, use a piece of isolation tape to isolate it again.

    Jan - Antwort

  27. Hebe vorsichtig das Antennenkabel hoch und  hole es aus der Kante des iPhones heraus. Benutze dazu die Spudgerspitze und löse das Kabel von den Halteklammern. Wenn nicht genug Platz ist, dum das Kabel hochzuheben, dann löse diese Kreuzschlitzschraube, welche das Logic Board befestigt.  Dadurch kann das Logic Board dem Kabel etwas mehr Spielraum lassen. Ziehe diese Schraube beim Zusammenbau wieder fest.
    • Hebe vorsichtig das Antennenkabel hoch und hole es aus der Kante des iPhones heraus. Benutze dazu die Spudgerspitze und löse das Kabel von den Halteklammern.

    • Wenn nicht genug Platz ist, dum das Kabel hochzuheben, dann löse diese Kreuzschlitzschraube, welche das Logic Board befestigt. Dadurch kann das Logic Board dem Kabel etwas mehr Spielraum lassen.

    • Ziehe diese Schraube beim Zusammenbau wieder fest.

    • Achte beim Zusammenbau darauf, dieses Kabel unter der Ecke des Logic Boards durchzuführen.

    • Beim Zusammenbau kannst du auch den SIM Karteneinschub wieder einsetzen, sobald du das Antennenkabel wieder eingesetzt hast.

    • Falls du irgendeinen Widerstand spürst, halte an und kontrolliere, ob sich der Karteneinschub nicht im Kabel verhakt hat.

    Why would it be necessary to remove the antenna cable from the top for this repair? I did it whilst leaving it in.

    Edwin - Antwort

    The antenna cable is taped to the speaker module in an inaccessible location. While it is possible to pull the cable out of the tape binding, doing so may break the cable. We opted to remove the cable with the speaker as a workaround.

    Arthur Shi -

    is it necessary to somehow try to get the antenna back into the retaining clips? I can’t say I can even see where they are.

    Tonya - Antwort

    Hi Tonya,

    It is not necessary for the general operation of the phone. Keeping the antenna in the clips may help with grounding and keeps it in place so that you can easily insert/remove the SIM tray without snagging it. Wherever the antenna cable turns silver on the strand, there should be a corresponding clip underneath it.

    Arthur Shi -

  28. Entferne folgende Kreuzschlitzschrauben, welche den Lautsprecher am Rückgehäuse befestigen:
    • Entferne folgende Kreuzschlitzschrauben, welche den Lautsprecher am Rückgehäuse befestigen:

    • Zwei 2,6 mm Schrauben

    • Zwei 2,3 mm Schrauben

    • Eine 3,0 mm Schraube

    For me, the 2.3 screw on the left was covered with a small black film. Maybe a prior repair? I had to excavate the screw.

    Janusz Welin - Antwort

    Yes, the two orange 2.3mm screws are definitely different. May want to change the colors! Thankfully it wasn’t a catastrophic mistake.

    Alan M Taccone - Antwort

    Hi Alan,

    Good point! I’ll change the colors.

    Arthur Shi -

  29. Setze das flache Ende des Spudgers zwischen die lange Kante des Lautsprechermoduls und der Gehäusewand. Heble das Lautsprechermodul vorsichtig frei. Wenn das Lautsprechermodul gelöst ist, kannst du es hochheben und vom iPhone entfernen.
    • Setze das flache Ende des Spudgers zwischen die lange Kante des Lautsprechermoduls und der Gehäusewand.

    • Heble das Lautsprechermodul vorsichtig frei.

    • Wenn das Lautsprechermodul gelöst ist, kannst du es hochheben und vom iPhone entfernen.

    I could not completely remove the antenna cable (attached to the speaker) without removing other components. I just left the speaker and antenna cable dangling while I replaced the lightning connector.

    Tyler Clayton - Antwort

  30. Entferne die beiden 1,5 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben, mit der die Taptic Engine am Rückgehäuse befestigt ist. Entferne die Taptic Engine.
    • Entferne die beiden 1,5 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben, mit der die Taptic Engine am Rückgehäuse befestigt ist.

    • Entferne die Taptic Engine.

  31. Entferne die folgenden acht Kreuzschlitzschrauben:
    • Entferne die folgenden acht Kreuzschlitzschrauben:

    • Zwei 2,9 mm Schrauben über der Kopfhörerbuchse

    • Eine 3,7 mm Schraube über der Halterung der Kopfhörerbuchse

    • Zwei 1,4 mm Schrauben an der Kante des iPhones

    • Zwei 1,9 mm Schrauben auf beiden Seiten des Lightning Connectors

    • Eine 3,0 mm Schraube auf der linken Seite des Connectors

    Make sure you separate the “blue” (3.0mm) screw from the “red”(2.9mm) screws—they are next to impossible to tell apart by eye.

    Alexander Anderson - Antwort

    As you remove the 3.7 mm screw(orange) be careful of the bracket(Step 51) as it sometimes lifts with the screw and you will need it for re-installation.

    Bryan Solo - Antwort

  32. Entferne die Plastikhalterung des Mikrofons.
    • Entferne die Plastikhalterung des Mikrofons.

  33. Erwärme einen iOpener und lege ihn eine Minute lang auf die Rückseite nahe der Unterkante des Smartphones.
    • Erwärme einen iOpener und lege ihn eine Minute lang auf die Rückseite nahe der Unterkante des Smartphones.

  34. Schiebe ein Plektrum zwischen den Rand des Rückgehäuses und das Flachbandkabel des Lightning Connectors. Drücke das Plektrum unter das Flachbandkabel, um den Kleber zu durchbrechen, mit dem es festgeklebt ist. Drücke das Plektrum unter das Flachbandkabel, um den Kleber zu durchbrechen, mit dem es festgeklebt ist.
    • Schiebe ein Plektrum zwischen den Rand des Rückgehäuses und das Flachbandkabel des Lightning Connectors.

    • Drücke das Plektrum unter das Flachbandkabel, um den Kleber zu durchbrechen, mit dem es festgeklebt ist.

  35. Schiebe das flache Ende eines Spudgers zwischen die Lightning Connector Einheit und das hintere Gehäuse, um den restlichen Kleber zu lösen. Schiebe das flache Ende eines Spudgers zwischen die Lightning Connector Einheit und das hintere Gehäuse, um den restlichen Kleber zu lösen. Schiebe das flache Ende eines Spudgers zwischen die Lightning Connector Einheit und das hintere Gehäuse, um den restlichen Kleber zu lösen.
    • Schiebe das flache Ende eines Spudgers zwischen die Lightning Connector Einheit und das hintere Gehäuse, um den restlichen Kleber zu lösen.

    The replacement lightning assembly has a factory plastic seal over the new adhesive—be sure to remove it before installing the new one.

    Alexander Anderson - Antwort

    Well spotted, thanks!

    NMranchhand - Antwort

  36. Löse die Mikrofone mit einem Plastiköffnungswerkzeug von der Unterkante des Rückgehäuses. Löse die Mikrofone mit einem Plastiköffnungswerkzeug von der Unterkante des Rückgehäuses. Löse die Mikrofone mit einem Plastiköffnungswerkzeug von der Unterkante des Rückgehäuses.
    • Löse die Mikrofone mit einem Plastiköffnungswerkzeug von der Unterkante des Rückgehäuses.

    There’s a rubber “o-ring” type gasket that goes between the plastic tube of the 3.5 mm housing and the bottom of the iphone where it leads out. Carefully remove it and replace it on the new lighting connector/3.5 mm housing tube before installing.

    Alexander Anderson - Antwort

  37. Setze die Spudgerspitze in die Mikrofonbuchse und drücke darauf, damit sich die Buchse vom Rückgehäuse löst. Setze die Spudgerspitze in die Mikrofonbuchse und drücke darauf, damit sich die Buchse vom Rückgehäuse löst.
    • Setze die Spudgerspitze in die Mikrofonbuchse und drücke darauf, damit sich die Buchse vom Rückgehäuse löst.

    Theres a little buffer/washer thing on the back of this piece. Make sure to pull it off and re-use it on the replacement piece! The microphone won't work well without it.

    Jeff - Antwort

    On the replacement lightning assembly, this microphone has a factory plastic seal—remove it before putting on the buffer/washer thing mentioned above.

    Alexander Anderson - Antwort

  38. Entferne die Lightning Connector Einheit. Wenn keine Dichtung mit deinem Ersatzteil mitgeliefert wurde, dann musst du sie mit einer Pinzette vom alten Teil auf das neue Ersatzteil übertragen. Bevor du die Lightning Connector Einheit wieder einbaust oder austauschst, musst du mit einem Plastikwerkzeug jegliche Kleberreste  vom Rückgehäuse hinter dem Kabel abschaben.
    • Entferne die Lightning Connector Einheit.

    • Wenn keine Dichtung mit deinem Ersatzteil mitgeliefert wurde, dann musst du sie mit einer Pinzette vom alten Teil auf das neue Ersatzteil übertragen.

    • Bevor du die Lightning Connector Einheit wieder einbaust oder austauschst, musst du mit einem Plastikwerkzeug jegliche Kleberreste vom Rückgehäuse hinter dem Kabel abschaben.

    There is a small plastic spacer for the microphone that might come off with Lightning connector assembly. If it does you can simply pull it off and apply it to the new assembly.

    Huntster - Antwort

    The lightning connector does not have a gasket but instead some adhesive. You will need to replace this as it creates a seal between the connector and the frame.

    Bryan Solo - Antwort

Abschluss

Vergleiche das neue Ersatzteil mit dem Originalteil - du musst vielleicht fehlende Teile übertragen oder Schutzfolien vom Neuteil abziehen, bevor du es einbauen kannst.

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, befolge die Anleitung in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

Entsorge deinen Elektromüll fachgerecht.

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Arthur Shi

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the reason is the antenna is connected to the loud speaker but you can lay it out of the way, remember do not rip the cable that is attached to the speaker

Wilson Gilley - Antwort

Can you just plug the new assembly in to check it, before going through the whole installation?

cropcord76 - Antwort

ya man, just be careful, make sure battery is disconnected before connecting or disconnecting anything

Andrew -

I did this repair and everything went fine. The user now has issues with callers hearing them. Is there a cover/sticker over the microphone on the ifixit replacement part? Speaker works and he can talk on speaker phone with no issues. Any ideas?

bofootball57 - Antwort

Did you pull the old adhesive off before reinstalling using the new adhesive? Did you align each mic correctly?

chamilton89 -

Had no problems, swapped out the port. I also skipped 21-47 but found there were one or two small things in there that needed to be done to remove the lightning port. Uncovering the screw was one one of them, but I forget the other. The hardest part for me was getting the screen up, but a little heat from a hair dryer helped loosen the adhesive. After that, pretty smooth sailing. Anyway, easy enough to do and the phone works again. Nice.

Pete - Antwort

Followed the guide, didn't encounter a problem with skipping from 21-47 - but now i get a really weak cellular signal (changing from searching or no network to just no mobile data or no reception at all), even after ordering 2 more Lightning Port Assemblies and giving them a try...

I'm not sure if it's a grounding problem or because i didn't wear gloves, but i've read that there are more people with the same problem under the discussion of the iPhone 6 Lightning port change. Is there anyone who could help me?

Jan Hiebert - Antwort

is there a way to check the new part, i completed everything and still is not working?

Ryan - Antwort

did anyone have issues reattaching the antenna cable to the socket for reassembly in step 35? how do i line it up correctly? i can't seem to get it to stay.

also, perhaps related, the headphone jack and microphone do not work after i completed the switch. bluetooth calls work fine, and the speaker works but not the headphone jack or the microphone.

kapluni - Antwort

Hi Kapluni, Did you get an answer to this? I don’t seem to have any damage but it just doesn’t seem to “click” into place.

Ronan Kenneally -

Skipped 21-47. Put back together, had issues with putting antenna back (step 35). Now the phone will not even turn on. Plugged to a power source, says to plug in to iTunes. Plug in to iTunes...nothing. Says it's in recovery mode. No clue what to do. Did not back up the phone, as my MacBook air is late 2011 and the iTunes will not recognize the phone anymore since last update. My fault for not backing up on new computer,,,about to lose all information. Any ideas?

Jason Schroeder - Antwort

SKipped 21-47, only trouble was plugging antennae back in but stayed patient. Did the lightning headphone, battery and screen all together. Took about an hour or so.

joshuabogage - Antwort

Hi, I tried to repair the Lightning. No problem exept that the power source is not recognize. I can’t charge the battery. I think the piece is a bad one…. I put the old Lightning and the charge is OK but i have to put back the wire with a tool.

Chacal - Antwort

Everything went smooth, however something weird is happening now. When recording a video everything works fine, but when recording a video on Instagram, there is a very loud noise (like rain) and the sound is barely audible, you can’t hear pretty much nothing. Any idea of what the problem might be?

kraki - Antwort

OK that was really hard! Yes, it pains me to admit it but I am at a point in my life where the ability to repair a phone doesn’t really serve my ego. I did all the steps because I didn’t notice the comments section until I got to step 56. Had I to do it over I would have made little trays for each type of screw and not tried to store them with associated parts during disassembly. This alone is why reassembly alone took me 3 hours! I keep swapping out screws to cover for bad guessing. Phone seems to work fine on day one. Here’s hoping for another two years of service!

Eric Anderson - Antwort

Regarding the little antennae terminals. These require patience. I had convinced myself that I had bent the tiny little male prong and that was why it wouldn’t seat. It was fine. The design is not that weak. It just takes a steady pressure while every angle is tried.

Eric Anderson - Antwort

Great guide and pictures, except you dont need to remove the logic board! I wish i had read these comments before starting :( Also a good idea to sort the screws!

Gabe Vacaliuc - Antwort

As others have remarked, removing the logic board is totally unnecessary, and makes this repair so much more complicated (and risky). The speakerbox does not have to be disconnected at all, you can just put it aside carefully. Apple included extra length of cable to allow for that.

Even though it’s well made (and no doubt well intended) I think this tutorial should be revised or removed to correct this wrong approach.

In the mean time, a better video is this one:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J41KaLOR...

Manon Schuitema - Antwort

This worked perfectly. Thank you.

Mark D Flannery - Antwort

First full teardown of a clients device! Only been doing this for about a week. THANK YOU SO MUCH for the great guide! Didn’t miss a screw!

Brandon Tuey - Antwort

Question- does the lightning connector cable adhesive not come in this kit? It wants me to buy it separately but then is out of stock. I would think that a kit would have everything I need so I’m confused. Thanks.

ElleT - Antwort

Thank you so much for the great explanations and wonderful pictures - I wouldn’t be able to do this repair without it. It took me a while, and I took my time, but it ended on a very happy note with a fully functioning phone with a lightning port that will actually charge my phone! This was a great repair guide

Tim Griffin - Antwort

This was an easy and complete/successful repair without taking out the logic board. Just be careful not to completely take out the speaker assembly; just move it up enough to pull up the ribbon cable below it. For my replacement part, I used one from another phone so I did this twice.

Breadman - Antwort

Did anyone have a headphone jack problem where you turn the volume up and you can’t hear anything?

Neo_Tech - Antwort

Had same issue with the headphone jack! The phone recognizes headphones are plugged in, and volume controls / pause and play work, but I don’t hear any sounds out of it. Did anyone find a solution to this problem?

Jake Liu - Antwort

Merci pour ce tutoriel parfaitement illustré de magnifiques photos. Merci au traducteur, les photos ne suffisent pas toujours !

Réparation effectuée avec succès. C’est quand même réellement difficile et il faut absolument prendre son temps, surtout si c’est votre première réparation de ce type. Il faut être particulièrement délicat avec les connecteurs, surtout ceux de l’écran. Perso un des trois était abimé d’un côté (assemblage d’origine mal fait) et j’ai dû reformer le téton central écrasé d’un côté pour dégager un des minuscules connecteurs. Opération sous loupe binoculaire, ça aide ! :)

Les antennes sont les plus difficiles à rebrancher. Deux minuscules prises coaxiales qu’il faut aligner parfaitement pour les connecter et c’est pas évident car à l’œil nu on ne voit pas bien ce qui ce passe. Regarder à la loupe comment ces prises sont faites aide beaucoup à comprendre comment les positionner avant d’appuyer pour les connecter. Soyez très prudent.

Philippe Galmel - Antwort

Did the whole thing, managed to get it done, but charging was still iffy, and both the haptic engine and speakers stopped responding

Simply re-opened and re-seated everything, while being extra careful, and boom. It all worked perfectly!! Thanks :)

Naysan Jones (NaysWindu) - Antwort

So elaborately explained. Thank you!

hizburrahmanjibon - Antwort

Ciao! Io faccio il tutto senza rimuovere la scheda madre dell'iPhone. Questo comporta dei problemi?

Grazie.

Michelangelo - Antwort

Nessun problema!

Arthur Shi -

Step 28 tells me to complete remove the antenna cable, although I didn’t do this and was able to complete the rest of the procedure.

DARWINLAM - Antwort

My iPhone did not charge anymore, so I changed the Lighting Connector and the battery. After the repair, I connected it to my Macbook. It turned on again, but it still does not load. Did someone have a similar problem and maybe a solution for me? Many Thanks! Best regards, Felix

Doc Brown - Antwort

Giuda molto dettagliata, ma credo ci siano molti più passaggi del necessario (ho trovato una guida in cui estraeva il flex di ricarica in circa 15 minuti, senza togliere né batteria né scheda madre)

jack91.7 - Antwort

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