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In dieser Anleitung zeigen wir dir, wie du mit einem neuen Akku dein iPhone 5s reparieren kannst.

Wenn dein Akku aufgebläht ist, musst du entsprechende Vorsichtsmaßnahmen treffen.

In dieser Anleitung wird die Front Panel Einheit komplett entfernt, um Schäden an den Displaykabeln zu vermeiden. Wenn du meinst, dass du das Display problemlos abstützen kannst, während du den Akku herauslöst, dann kannst du die Schritte zum Ausbau des Displays überspringen, und gleich mit dem Ausbau des Akkus weitermachen.

Für eine optimale Leistung sollte der neu eingebaute Akku nach Abschluss der Reparatur kalibriert werden: Lade ihn auf 100% auf, und lasse ihn mindesten zwei weitere Stunden laden. Benutze dann dein iPhone bis es sich aufgrund eines leeren Akkus ausschaltet. Lade den Akku dann erneut ohne Unterbrechung auf 100% auf.


  1. Falls dein Displayglas gesprungen ist, halte die Bruchstelle zusammen und vermeide Verletzungen, indem du das Glas mit Tape versiehst. Lege sich überlagernde Streifen von durchsichtigem Paketband über das iPhone Display, bis die gesamte Frontseite bedeckt ist. Dies hält Glasscherben zusammen und erzeugt eine glattere Oberfläche für mehr Haftung. So lässt sich das Display besser vom Rückgehäuse lösen.
    • Falls dein Displayglas gesprungen ist, halte die Bruchstelle zusammen und vermeide Verletzungen, indem du das Glas mit Tape versiehst.

    • Lege sich überlagernde Streifen von durchsichtigem Paketband über das iPhone Display, bis die gesamte Frontseite bedeckt ist.

    • Dies hält Glasscherben zusammen und erzeugt eine glattere Oberfläche für mehr Haftung. So lässt sich das Display besser vom Rückgehäuse lösen.

    • Trage eine Schutzbrille, um deine Augen vor Splittern, die sich während des Reparaturvorgangs lösen können, zu schützen.

    This was the most stressful thing I have ever done. I can't get the chips to pop in the top right corner, still coming up with white lines at top of screen even after re-powering the battery. Very poor experience, will let apple or a professional handle this rather than a how to. &&^& this.

    steven krieger - Antwort

    This is a Step 4 comment. I ordered the iSclack tool to help with my 5s battery replacement. After 30 minutes of trying to open the iPhone, I gave up and will try this later when I have a lot more time to spend on this. Before you ask, yes I did remove the two screws in Step 2. I must have a very tight fitting phone! Maybe next time I'll try a drop of oil on both suction cups to help with the adhesion. LOL, did not think I'd have trouble opening the case!

    TerryChang - Antwort

    An update. After months of living with my dead battery (iSclack would not work for me), I decided to use the provided suction cup, and surprise - it worked! LOL, so much for the iSclack tool! In any case, I followed the instructions and though it was a bit difficult (too small parts, too fat fingers, aging eyes), I was able to replace the battery. The battery removal was a bear, but with patience (and the use of an expired credit card as my lever), it did come out. Replacement of the adhesive strips was a puzzle - I eventually installed it "backwards" (removal hole in the tab on the left vs right) but this should not affect anything. Phone is charging now and preliminary testing of the home button/digitizer seem to be working. Once fully charged I'll do a full test on the phone to ensure I put things together correctly, but THANK YOU iFixIt for these instructions!

    TerryChang -

    I faced the same issue. My 5S wouldn't open with the iSclack. Had to use the suction cup instead. Even then, I wrestled with it for a whole 30 minutes.. Apparently my 5S is one sticky beast.

    Daylen -

    Firstly do not just watch the video if you are going to do the battery replacement. I was too busy and stupid and only watched the video and boogered my Girlfiends 5S with the screw replacement boon doggle... You must read the iFix full instructions (forget the video) or you will screw it up!.. It is not necessary to take the screen completely off. I did my 5 that was and assumed the 5S had a different protocol for a reason. It doesn't require removing the creen at all. I was careful on my 5 and had no problem. I took different prcautions and watched only the video and screwed up a perfectly good 5S... This means if your not backed up you just lost all your contacts and messages videos etc.... iFix is cool except their Video is not concise like the long instructions they provide. I was stupid and figured I new what i was doing after doing a couple other batteries and bingo I screwed it...

    yaterbob - Antwort

    Before embarking on this task, be sure you don't simply have built-up lint in the lightening port. I found that with a needle and some very CAREFUL workmanship removing lint/debris from the base of the port was what was ailing my machine.

    mark40 - Antwort

    Before embarking on this, remember to order some new replacement sticky adhesive strips, as these do not come with the replacement battery. I didn’t realise this until I had removed the battery. I just replaced it without and have crossed my fingers!

    debsmcd6 - Antwort

    As to my comment above, I had to order them and fit them to the battery as it was moving around inside!

    debsmcd6 - Antwort

    There is no need to over tape the screen; one strip is enough if wider to make a full cover. My screen was super fragmented and it worked beautifully with just one layer of tape.

    Andre Silva - Antwort

  2. Entlade den Akku deines iPhones auf unter 25%, bevor du weitermachst. Eine geladene Lithium-Ionen Batterie kann Feuer fangen und/oder explodieren, falls sie beschädigt wird.
    • Entlade den Akku deines iPhones auf unter 25%, bevor du weitermachst. Eine geladene Lithium-Ionen Batterie kann Feuer fangen und/oder explodieren, falls sie beschädigt wird.

    • Schalte dein iPhone aus, bevor du mit der Demontage beginnst.

    • Entferne die zwei 3,9 mm Pentalobe-Schrauben neben dem Lightning Connector.

    I used a white terrycloth hand towel as my work surface and to position and retain all the screws and part in their relative positions, so I didn't mix things up. I also magnetized the screwdriver tips and that made it very easy to deal with these tiny, tiny screws.

    Magnus Dalen - Antwort

    For a secure working, put a small pot with lid on your workplace. When the battery starts burning, throw it in the pot, close it with the lid and get the pot safely out of the building, e.g. on the balcony or throw it out of the window. Do not try to extinct the battery with water, just let it burn out outside. This might take some hours.

    Raymond Willems - Antwort

    This is a really helpful one! My battery caught fire but luckily it was only one cell and not the entire battery. So it was done after a few seconds and I could go on with the replacement.

    Matthias Blab -

    Directions should say “use the P2 screwdriver head.”

    William Kolb - Antwort

    This step should have included that information. It was very helpful and important. Thank you very much.

    Jeffery -

    ifixit supplied a set of replacement philips screws (marked “Liberate!”). Thanks but I’m sticking with the pentalobe since they fit more securely than philips which have a chance of stripping if not held with the right amount of pressure.

    Don Libes - Antwort

    What are you supposed to do if the screws are stripped or won’t come out. No luck with the tweezers either.

    ibrokeit - Antwort

    Yep i‘ve had the same problem. One screw out, one that won‘t budge!!!

    Stennett -

    “cheater” reading glasses are a big help. Carolyn

    Carolyn Green - Antwort

    In this step, it is the P02 screwdriver from the kit (see that the nib has five sides , exactly for ‘pentalobe’ screws). All the other steps involving screws it was the Philips 000 (there was a third screwdriver Y 000 in the kit which I did not use). Did not have any problems at all removing and readding screws back through the process.

    Andre Silva - Antwort

    I'm trying to fix my 5s’s but one has some water damage, and impeccable screen but won't turn on,then I have another one that has no water damage, screens a bit busted but won't turn because of the screen. If I use the good screen from the water damaged phone would it work?

    samuel.m.fudge - Antwort

    After removing the phone from a very good plastic case and before I started the repair I cleaned the entire phone with a soft cloth misted with rubbing alcohol. That removes all the grunge which builds up in the seams of the phone and the small spaces inside the case. Having a clean phone to work on makes the job a lot easier and prevents grunge from falling into the phone.

    David Park - Antwort

  3. In den folgenden Schritten hebst du das Display vom restlichen Teil des Gehäuses ab. Das Display setzt sich zusammen aus dem Bildschirm und einem Plastikrahmen mit Metallklammern. Unabhängig vom verwendeten Werkzeug musst du darauf achten das ganze Display auf einmal abzuheben. Wenn sich der Bildschirm vom Rahmen löst, wie es im ersten Bild zu erkennen ist, schiebe ein Plastik Opening Tool zwischen den Plastikrahmen und den unteren Teil des Gehäuses, um die Metallklammern zu lösen.
    • In den folgenden Schritten hebst du das Display vom restlichen Teil des Gehäuses ab. Das Display setzt sich zusammen aus dem Bildschirm und einem Plastikrahmen mit Metallklammern.

    • Unabhängig vom verwendeten Werkzeug musst du darauf achten das ganze Display auf einmal abzuheben.

    • Wenn sich der Bildschirm vom Rahmen löst, wie es im ersten Bild zu erkennen ist, schiebe ein Plastik Opening Tool zwischen den Plastikrahmen und den unteren Teil des Gehäuses, um die Metallklammern zu lösen.

    • Wenn der Rahmen sich bei deinem Display abgelöst hat könnte es hilfreich sein, diesen vor dem Zusammenbau mit einem dünnen Streifen doppelseitigem Klebeband zu befestigen.

    can this separation makes the screen stop working

    bassam_shallak92 - Antwort

    In my experience, dust particles have entered the screen, and partially ruins the wiewing experience, but this far the screen still works

    Iver søbakk -

    If the screen spilt and half is still stuck in the phone (clips broke and came out), how do I get the rest of the display panel up? It appears stuck, almost glued down.

    Shara Nelson - Antwort

    I was attempting to replace the battery on a phone that had been dropped once to create a dent in the top right corner, which pushed out the screen a tiny bit in that region, but not enough to break or render it non-functional. That all changed when I attempted to open my phone. I have a 5s and I had a friend’s broken SE that I was practicing on. I did not realize that either the construction of the screen is different, or that the dent in my phone would be that much of a problem. When I opened my phone, the top of the screen popped up almost immediately…. without the plastic bevel. It took a bit to get the bottom part open, but the plastic bevel in the top part was still stuck in the frame. I panicked and closed everything, but the screen was popped out from the frame even more and now when I turn on the phone, the screen has a green tint and won’t respond to touch :’(

    Zhian Kamvar - Antwort

    For reassembly, it is important to insert the upper end (the end opposite from the home button) in first, then pop the rest of the display assembly down into place. The upper end has protrusions which go beneath a metal lip. If done in the opposite (wrong) order, the upper end will not allow itself to be pushed down in place and will sit unevenly higher than the other end.

    Steve Bayes - Antwort

    I was replacing my 5s screen due to a cracked screen. I had used packing tape on it to keep the bits from falling apart while I waited for the replacement part, however, the tape limited my ability to use the suction cup for removal. After several tries I was able to get a firm attachment, however, the result was that the glass was being pulled up without the plastic rim. After several failed attempts of using plastic opening tools to wedge between the frame and the phone body, I ended up using an exacto-knife (a Stanley knife) based on another commenters suggestion. I knew I might end up scraping the metal but nothing else was thin enough to work. This approach totally worked for me so that I could get the frame lifted just enough to slide in plastic cards and wedges until I could switch over to the plastic opening tools. Luckily there are only very minor nicks (hardly even visible) on the metal. Thank you to that commenter, otherwise am not sure I could’ve done it.

    JW McAteer - Antwort

    • Die nächsten zwei Schritte zeigen, wie man den iSclack verwendet. Ein großartiges Werkzeug, um das iPhone sicher zu öffnen, das wir für jeden empfehlen, der mehr als eine Reparatur durchführen will. Wenn du den iSclack nicht verwendest, gehe weiter zu Schritt 6.

    • Schließe den Handgriff des iSclacks, wodurch sich die Saugnäpfehalter öffnen.

    • Platziere das Unterteil deines iPhone zwischen den Saugnäpfen gegen den Tiefenbegrenzer aus Kunststoff.

    • Der obere Saugnapf sollte sich gerade über dem Home Button befinden.

    • Öffne den Handgriff, um die Halter des iSclacks zu schließen. Platziere die Saugnäpfe mittig und drücke sie fest gegen die Ober- und Unterseite des iPhones.

    DO NOT USE THIS METHOD. If the glue holding the glass to the screen assembly is weak, the force from the suction cup will pull the glass straight off. Instead, use a very thin flat metal tool to slide under the front face (carefully between the plastic edge strip and the metal case) and pry up. This is not only easier, but it is also a far safer method.

    Izaac Post - Antwort

    Thank you very much, however already used the suction cup and it came much easier than expected... Then snapped the home cable on my wife's phone... Now I have to replace that...

    Thomas Hallberg -

    This tool is worth its weight in gold to make opening the case without breaking things very easy. Highly recommend using it. I needed to use the little blue plastic pry bar tool on one side of the case to get the glass and frame to release from the back.

    Magnus Dalen - Antwort

    I used this tool on 2 successful screen replacements - BUT on the third time, the force did in fact separate the glass from the plastic, so I'd suggest inspecting first, and using with care.

    Andrew - Antwort

    This is the third repair using the iSclack it didn't have enough force to lift the face. I used the flat tool to help separate it. Thanks to those who warned against this tool due to pulling the glass face loose. I didn't think of that.

    ldavis - Antwort

  4. Umfasse dein iPhone mit festem Griff und schließe den Handgriff des iSclacks, um die Saugnäpfe auseinanderzubringen und dadurch die Display Einheit vom hinteren Gehäuse zu lösen. Der iSclack ist dazu entwickelt, dein iPhone sicher zu öffnen und zwar gerade soweit, um die Teile voneinander zu trennen, aber nicht weit genug, um das Home Button Kabel zu beschädigen.
    • Umfasse dein iPhone mit festem Griff und schließe den Handgriff des iSclacks, um die Saugnäpfe auseinanderzubringen und dadurch die Display Einheit vom hinteren Gehäuse zu lösen.

    • Der iSclack ist dazu entwickelt, dein iPhone sicher zu öffnen und zwar gerade soweit, um die Teile voneinander zu trennen, aber nicht weit genug, um das Home Button Kabel zu beschädigen.

    • Löse die beiden Saugnäpfe von deinem iPhone.

    • Überspringe die nächsten drei Schritte und fahre mit Schritt 9 fort.

    Zip-tie is an excellent idea which I used in 1 repair(place zip-tie around home button area and hold in place while using the tool). Also using a single suction cup will work as well but needs to be placed to the left above the home button(depending on size of cup). Also there is a indentation on the bottom left of the screen assembly that will allow you to insert a jimmy tool or something similar once you lift the screen some from the frame. Once inserted take your time to release the screen across the bottom and sides but remember not to insert to far at the bottom or you may damage the home button cable.

    Bryan Solo - Antwort

    The iSclack tool is a no brainer. I simply cleaned both areas were the suction cup secured to and pushed the ends of the iSclack together. Could not have been easier! The use of a zip tie did interest me, but I went the easiest way for no mistakes (iSclack). Be sure to hold the top of the phone securely, when open the bottom, which ever options you choose.

    iScott - Antwort

    This worked for me. Unfortunately I managed to pinch the fleshy bit of my index finger when closing shut the handles….ouch! So just be a bit careful!

    debsmcd6 - Antwort

  5. Wenn du keinen iSclack besitzt, benutze einen einzelnen Saugnapf, um die Display Einheit anzuheben:
    • Wenn du keinen iSclack besitzt, benutze einen einzelnen Saugnapf, um die Display Einheit anzuheben:

    • Presse einen Saugnapf auf das Display, direkt über dem Home Button.

    • Vergewissere dich, dass der Saugnapf vollständig auf dem Display aufliegt, um eine gute Haftung zu erzeugen.

    My phone was too shattered to grip with my "Pump'itup" iFixit suction cup, and the method of adding packing tape over the display did not work either (still too lumpy). I ended up epoxying two 5" x 3/4" pieces of wood trim strips directly to the face of the phone, avoiding the Home switch and any seams, and positioning the wood to overhang the phone by ~2 inches. After 30 minutes of setting, I was able to lift up on the overhanging wood strips and pop the face of the phone out of the housing.

    cpwittenberg - Antwort

    Use a Stanley knife to push in between the back housing and the frame in the bottom left and corner and gently leaver up.

    Much easier Than using suction cup but may slight scratch the frame or housing.

    Craig Matthews -

    I suspect that the age of the phone and accident that caused cracks make this method possible for some people. My mom's phone was only a month or so old and the suction cup only caused the screen to raise slightly. There was certainly no crack I could squeeze a spudger into. I just superglued the suction cup onto the screen in the end, which was very effective.

    Caroline Russell -

    Removed board. I ended up with a small shiny metal plate. Shown clearly in the above last posted photos just under the power button switch. Where does this goes?

    Malcolm - Antwort

    I was wondering the same thing. Did you ever figure out where this goes?

    paul -

    This has probably been replied to, but see step 31 :) Should be re installed with the pokey out bits pointing down.

    daveoline -

    Can someone please help me. I went through all of the steps and now my phone screen is all white and I can't see anything.

    Lukeapple1414 - Antwort

    First try a hard reset by holding down both the power button and the home button at the same time for at least 10 seconds. If that doesn't work, get back inside the phone and reseat the connectors. If the problem persists, either you received a bad part, or the part was damaged during installation.

    iGuys -

    My screen was too broken and the suction cup would not stick. I too a piece of Gorilla duct-tape and stuck it to itself and then also to the screen so that it made a "Tab" that I could pull up on. This worked much better than the suction cup.

    Nathan - Antwort

    @malcom @paul if you are referring to step 31 the plate needs to be placed as it comes out on the picture. Long flat part towards the top of the casing with the tab facing the right.

    hari - Antwort

    In my case, i found it easier to remove the sim - not sure if this was a placebo effect, but there you go!

    also, there is a rubber seal around the screen - my experience is it should stay of the display, not on the main body.

    Robert Colvin - Antwort

    The amount of force I applied to open the case using the suction cup manually ended up tearing out the home button cable...ripping it in the process. Goodbye TouchID...see you next generation T_T

    I would definitely recommend buying a stupid iSclack. I don't know why they'd even present the suction cup as an option. Maybe the 5S opens more easily when it's new. Now I need to decide between dropping more money on a new home button (and iSclack this time) or just hold out with the software home button.

    johnsonjohnr - Antwort

    Just lift slightly using the suction cup and on the bottom edge of the screen over to the left you'll see a slight gap open up just enough to get the spudger in. Don't use the suction cup to release the entire display assembly, just work around the edge with a spudger. This also helps clear some of the dirt build up.

    daveoline -

    I too tried the suction cup - worthless on cracked an only pulled off the many layers of packing tape applied as suggested. Used edge of utility knife to pry it up, then helper placed another blade underneath until I could pry it open. Great suggestion I read elsewhere, and only way I could get cover off.

    I too skipped step 25. Definitely requires patience! Screen replacement was successful, but noticeable degradation in screen clarity/color from the original is somewhat disappointing. At half the price of OEM repair, would probably do it again though.

    matttaylor - Antwort

    If other people have this issue, I would try supergluing a screen protector over the old screen - leave a wide margin around the edges, home key, ear speaker. You could even just cut a piece of the protector into a square, or get a rectangle of shipping tape, the glued down portion needn't cover the whole screen. Then, glue the suction cup on top of the glued down screen protector or tape. I suggest this over the utility knife because it seems like the knife method would at the very least scratch up and nick the frame.

    Caroline Russell -

    i did this now i'm having a hard time putting the metal bracket back on :(

    sineglabs - Antwort

    1) Set suction cup off-center & pry up a corner instead of trying to yank open the whole thing. Wrap fingers around the entire phone while pulling so you don't inadvertently pull the display too far off.

    2) Use a spudger, credit card, or guitar pick to pry it up once you have enough room to do so - don't pull any more than necessary.

    3) There's a thin rubber edge around the entire display that might separate & stick to the bottom section. It should stay with the phone.

    4) Reassembly: There are small plastic tabs on the top edge that you need to properly reseat in order to fully close the phone.

    seijihuzz01 - Antwort

    We got this to work. Some patience required, but absolutely doable. Our new iFixit suction cup did nothing, but a random one around the house worked fine. Just be patient and work it gently up, this use an opening tool or exacto blade to get into the seem once it comes up. Really quite doable. I'm glad I didn't spend 25 bucks on the fancy tool (a must for repeat use, I'm sure). But don't be deterred by the negatives above. Just go slow.

    Chris Twomey - Antwort

    I.did not read all the comments so I hope this isn’t redundant but my screen was too damaged to provide the air tonight seal that any suction device would need. The ifixit #3 flat head prayed the top out very easily. YMMV but I wouldn’t even try any other method before attempting to push the flat head down between the case and the glass. I thought it might bend the case out just a little causing a slight cosmetic damage but I have a rotective case that covers that anyway so who cares. Incidentally the case protected it from a lot of falls but not from gettin run over by my truck. A Prius once, but not the truck

    Bill Pennock - Antwort

    Oh and if you think this step is hard wait till you get to the screws on the home key or sliding the bracket back over the Touch ID cable connector. That is where the real problems are

    Bill Pennock - Antwort

    Single suction cup will work as well but needs to be placed to the left above the home button(depending on size of cup). Also there is a indentation on the bottom left of the screen assembly that will allow you to insert a jimmy tool or something similar once you lift the screen some from the frame. Once inserted take your time to release the screen across the bottom and sides but remember not to insert to far at the bottom or you may damage the home button cable.

    Bryan Solo - Antwort

    I concur with Bryan’s post. The suction cup that was included with the toolkit that came with my battery wouldn’t hold to the screen when I pulled on it (the rubber was pretty soft, and the surface not smooth - not at all like the suction cup shown in the pictures of this guide). Fortunately I have a suction cup with a hook used typically for hanging things on the wall of a shower that held on quite tight that did the job - in fact, I had to use the point of the spudger to get under the edge of the suction cup to get it to release. I also used the zip tie trick someone else posted for making sure the screen didn’t open too far before disconnecting the home button cable, but it wasn’t necessary - I got the screen lifted with enough control that the cable was never in danger.

    stuart40plus - Antwort

    Suction cup supplied by ifixit worked for me. Of course I used all the tricks mentioned previously: Zip ties, work on one corner at a time, and work slowly - don’t expect it to pop out easily/quickly.

    Don Libes - Antwort

    Getting cocky after replacing a display screen and battery in a 6S i-Phone, I decided to open up my own -Phone SE and replace the old battery with a new one. I used one of the flip lever suction cup devices and it worked so well, that the display screen popped open so far that the Home Button Cable was torn off from the Home Button Assembly. I followed the instructions for re-assembly, but the damage was done. Lesson learned…read the Repair Guide before starting a repair!

    Peter Bovey - Antwort

    Suction cup for itself did not work for me. Then, I used a double face tape on it, and it worked nice (don’t try to remove the suction cup until you have fully unplugged the screen though). The suction cup should be used only to make a little gap for the other tools (spudger and that one which is blue). Sorry for the all caps, but ‘PULL THE SCREEN VERY SLOWLY’ (many people here commented there was a failure in this spet even being cautious).

    Andre Silva - Antwort

    I liked the idea of using an iSclack to pull on both sides at the same time but didn’t want to spend the money for one. Instead, I used the suction cup that attaches my GPS to the windshield of my car, attached it to the front and then attached the small suction cup provided with the tool kit to the back of my iPhone. Pulling both in opposite directions worked perfectly to pull the case open with minimal effort and no surprises.

    Gregory White - Antwort

    Instead of a ring handle like in the photo, the suction cup in my repair kit had a blue, plastic L-shaped handle with the vertical leg of the L offset from the center of the cup. Like others I used zip ties and placed the cup to the left of the home button and had the vertical leg of the L oriented toward the bottom of the phone. Patience is the key.

    Gary Grinstead - Antwort

  6. Das Frontpanel ist mit Clips festgemacht und es gibt mehrere Flachbandkabel, die es mit dem übrigen Telefon verbinden. Dein Ziel hier ist, die Clips zu lösen und das Telefon gerade so weit zu öffnen, um die Kabel lösen zu können. Gehe langsam und behutsam vor, um Schäden zu vermeiden.
    • Das Frontpanel ist mit Clips festgemacht und es gibt mehrere Flachbandkabel, die es mit dem übrigen Telefon verbinden. Dein Ziel hier ist, die Clips zu lösen und das Telefon gerade so weit zu öffnen, um die Kabel lösen zu können. Gehe langsam und behutsam vor, um Schäden zu vermeiden.

    • Achte darauf, dass der Saugnapf knapp über dem Home Button fest auf der Display Einheit sitzt.

    • Während du das iPhone mit einer Hand unten hältst, ziehe an dem Saugnapf, um die Display Einheit auf der Home Button Seite etwas vom hinteren Gehäuse zu entfernen.

    • Heble mithilfe eines Plastik Opening Tools die Kanten des hinteren Gehäuses vorsichtig nach unten, weg von der Display Einheit, während du mit dem Saugnapf nach oben ziehst.

    • Nimm dir Zeit und übe einen konstant kräftigen Zug aus. Die Display Einheit ist bei diesen Geräten sehr fest eingepasst.

    Seriously consider the isclack. I have a lot of experience working with much more valuable equipment than a phone, and I had read all the precautions... but I broke the cable anyways. The isclack is specifically designed to open the phone but only wide enough to get the clips out, while saving your home button cable.

    llcoreyll - Antwort

    Agreed. The suction cup method shouldn't be mentioned. I'm also extremely delicate with electronics and gently opening the display with a single suction cup is essentially impossible. The spudger needs to do all the work.

    idmadj -

    Agreed, I really wish I had paid extra to buy the isclack. Didn’t because I thought that I could be careful—that iFixIt provided just the suction and it would take a few days to get the extra tool. Take the time. Its not worth it.

    Thought I was extremely careful—absolutely no movement or pull. Then pop. Pulled home button cord right out of its socket. Buying a new phone later today. The extra few days and additional cash would have totally been worth it.

    Timothy Fry -

    Found it very easy to do with a single suction cup, just wiggle and pry.

    emiserry -

    It may help to position the suction cup off-center and pull up one corner first.

    Rosemary McNaughton - Antwort

    Yes, I had problems initially (with the suction cup placed just above the home button) but placing it in the left corner did the trick.

    Brian Riess -

    Avoid spudgers, guitar picks, and other weird inventions, just use your fingernails. That way you can feel what's happening, and you won't accidentally slide them in and break something. They won't break the plastic rim thingy either, in contrast with spudgers. That's what fingernails evolved to do, so just use them.

    Konrad Tlatlik - Antwort

    Lol. Evolved fingernails to open phones.

    Chal Miller -

    Wrap a zip-tie loosely around the phone to avoid pulling the cover too far off and breaking the ribbon cable.

    Thor Lancaster - Antwort

    Thank you for the zip tie suggestion!

    W Fleming -

    Zip tie is a brilliant suggestion. Very robust and safe way to pull the phone apart--I had mine wrapped just above the home button and kept the case from opening beyond about 1/8 of an inch.

    bartonh - Antwort

    Used the suction cup and only my screen came up. Looks as though the screen delaminated from its black aluminum mounting tray. The home button stayed with the tray as well. Any ideas?

    Kyle Rogers - Antwort

    I got the battery and fitting kit from ifixit. the blue plastic levers that were included were not up to the job as the blade just bent when any pressure was applied. carefully using my own screwdrivers completed the task.

    adrt - Antwort

    We disagree with the naysayers. Patient use of the suction cup worked for us. The iFixit one didn't do it (it looked a bit deformed out of the box. But a random kids toy worked fine. Nothing fancy. Don't rush. Use an exacto as it starts to come up to slide in to the crevice. After that, works pretty well.

    Chris Twomey - Antwort

    The Jimmy tool worked for me. Managed to slide it in and twist slightly to pop the screen off without too much force.

    leeprobert - Antwort

    ifixit's sucktion cup and blue opening tool worked very well for me. I used the suction cup just enough to get the opening tool into a gap and gently pry out the clips. I'm glad that the display didn't give way too easily otherwise I might have damaged a cable. I wish I had read the zip tie comment first though.

    Scott Watson - Antwort

    ifixit's suction cup and blue opening tool worked well for me. Like the zip tie suggestion as a precaution.

    Erik Osborn - Antwort

    during reassembly, screen cracked worse than screen i was replacing!!

    Valerie Egan - Antwort

    Yup - I did the same thing… The top corner of the encasement was slightly bent from when I had dropped the phone and where the screen cracked originally. I didn’t notice it right away and when I went to “snap” the screen back down into place during reassembly, it wasn’t quite a perfect fit, and when I tried to press it into place, I cracked the new screen. Note to self - “check for small dents in the encasement and try to fix before trying to tighten down the screen”. The new cracked screen is still better than the one that I was replacing. I feel so dumb. Chalk it up to a rookie mistake I guess. Hopefully this little write up saves someone else from making the same mistake.

    Christopher Flynn -

    I also broke the screen (after replacing the battery). When closing up the screen, insert the top of the screen first, then lay the phone face down on a flat surface and apply pressure from the back of the phone. It worked for me…

    stopsurfing - Antwort

    This is a great idea! Works for me too!

    JC Alice -

    This comment definitely should be in the guide!! It is an awesome hint.

    Andre Silva -

    Yes, hooking the top part of the phone in first seems to be pretty important. Also the plastic rim had broken and detached, which made pressing the screen back in even harder. Laying the phone face down to press the screen back in that way probably saved me from breaking it. Major upvote on this comment.

    Leigh Martin -

    Zip-tie is an excellent idea which I used in 1 repair. Also using a single suction cup will work as well but needs to be placed to the left above the home button(depending on size of cup). Also there is a indentation on the bottom left of the screen assembly that will allow you to insert a jimmy tool or something similar once you lift the screen some from the frame. Once inserted take your time to release the screen across the bottom and sides but remember not to insert to far at the bottom or you may damage the home button cable.

    Bryan Solo - Antwort

    Use some tape to limit how far the screen will open. I used wide packing tape, stuck it to the bottom of the display, where the home button is, and to the opposite side, on the back. It left a loop of tape, front to back, around the bottom of the phone, that had about an inch of slack. This allowed the display to pop off completely without any danger to the home button cable. No prying required.

    Michal Pawlowski - Antwort

    YES! I was just about to suggest this as I tore the home cable even though I was really careful opening it.

    Arthur Shi -

    The tape suggestion worked great! I used the suction cup, and the tape limited how far the display lifted once the snaps released. I’m sure I would have ripped the cable without this. No need to buy the iSlack to do this (if you have a suction cup)

    spyder13b -

    What worked extremely easy for me was I used a utility knife to score on the joint below the home button. The blade went in easy then lightly pried the screen up then followed up the rest of the way with the ifixit opening tool. I’m sure the ifixit Jimmy tool would work as well, instead of the utility knife.

    Scott Nacke - Antwort

    I wish I’d looked at the comments here before I tore the home button cable. I was trying to be careful and not to rip it but it just got away from me. Now I’ve ordered the replacement part…

    Graham Agnew - Antwort

    The glass of my screen went off at first and there was also a black plastic frame that I managed to peel off as well.

    At first I didn’t notice that the metal bracket didn’t come off. It was a bit of a struggle to lift the metal bracket.

    Wolfgang Bauer - Antwort

    Wish I’d read through these first.

    Used the suction cup but went too far when the display finally popped loose pulling the home button cable off the main board. Hope it was only the cable that was damaged - will try a replacement home button.

    Limiting the display’s travel with tape or a zip tie is an excellent idea !!!

    Leonard - Antwort

    I used the suction cup, but used a long screwdriver through the pull-ring help up with books either side piled to just lift the phone of the worksurface when I started to apple downward force on the phone. Meant that I could be more confident applying force as, if it did go suddenly, the phone would only travel the distance down to the surface. Had to add a few books as I hadn’t allowed for them compressing as I applied force.

    Peter Whitworth - Antwort

    We used the little suction cup the Ifixit supplies in the repair kit, NOT the iSclack. It took many attempts, patience, and two people working together, but ultimately we succeeded. Here are a few tips: soak the suction cup in very hot (just boiled) water for 5-10 minutes to get it really warm and pliable. As one person holds the phone and pulls up on the suction cup, the other should work the blue opening tool at the first sign of the display assembly starting to lift from the phone. Many times the suction cup would pop off but we kept heating the cup, resticking, and working it until we finally opened it. We used the cable tie suggestion above as well to be sure the phone would not open too far and this saved us when it finally popped free. Remember to work the clips on the side as well once you have a gap. Honestly, this took the most patience of all 62 steps! (Yes, there are 62 steps…only 54 more to go!)

    James M. Day - Antwort

    I could not exert enough force using the suction cup that came with iFixit battery replacement kit

    to pull the bottom of the screen away from the case. However, an X-acto knife inserted between the

    screen and the bottom edge of the case near the left corner allowed me to lift the screen sufficie

    ntly to insert a stiffer blade (a tiny screwdriver). Lifting further with the stiffer blade I was

    able to complete the separation by sliding the edge of a credit card along the bottom and sides of

    the screen. A plectrum would have worked as well. Using a knife blade eliminates the risk of dama

    ging the home-button cable.

    JPF - Antwort

    They really should include tips like a zip tie to prevent over opening and tearing the home button cable. Now I need to replace my home button.

    Lisa Jakubowsk - Antwort

    This step definitely scared me the most after reading all the comments, but with a helper this proved fairly simply. Using two suction cups I pried the case apart from the corner (not directly above the home button), just enough to barely fit the plastic opening tool into the notch. Unless you have 3 hands. Once in, you can release the tension from the suction cups, and simply pry the case open with the tool, to a satisfying pop.

    I used the zip tie trick, which is a clever idea. I don’t think it was necessary, but I would probably use this precaution again.

    Peter Spiegel - Antwort

    Patience is the key. At first I tried holding the phone in my hand and pulling on the suction cup. I finally put the phone on the table (like the instructions say…..duh) held the base in one hand while pulling on the suction cup with the other. I was getting movement but not enough to use the prying tool. After a bit of this I ran a razor blade along the bottom of the phone between the screen and the bottom casing. This broke whatever seal had built up between the two and the screen soon came off enough to use the prying tool.

    Gary Grinstead - Antwort

    In another guide there was a reference to the screen being pulled away from its frame? This was happening to me, so used very small amounts of superglue between screen and frome, applied using a cocktail stick. Left it for 24 hours. Worked fine.

    Wayne - Antwort

    I would echo most of these comments. I tried to be very careful, but still managed to pop up the display (it was very tight indeed), severing not only the home button but, as I later discovered, a cable at the other end of the phone.

    Really, get the proper tool.

    Ian Harris - Antwort

    razor blade: 1 min

    suction cup and other nonsense: 20 mins with zero progress

    Jordan Brennan - Antwort

    I used the iFixit kit (2019) with suction  cup. It worked perfectly fine. Absolutely imperative—USE A ZIPTIE (or one of the other suggestions such as box tape). It’s cumbersome to handle the phone and you might become preoccupied with positioning your hands that you apply an unmeasured amount of force.

    I wasn’t sure what to expect. Suction cup in place, plastic opening tool on the edge. As I adjusted hand position and applied force, BAM! the screen just popped up, and was saved by a ziptie.

    xtian - Antwort

    I had no problem using suction cup - put zip tie around phone just in case, but by slowly using plastic pry tool and pulling gently on suction cup from lower left side of phone, it separated quite easily. Keep prying around edges slowly so that you don’t get a big release.

    Patrick Pedersen - Antwort

  7. Versuche nicht, die Display Einheit vollständig vom hinteren Gehäuse zu lösen, da beide immer noch durch mehrere Flachbandkabel verbunden sind. Ziehe an an der Kunststoffnoppe, um das Vakuum des Saugnapfes zu öffnen.
    • Versuche nicht, die Display Einheit vollständig vom hinteren Gehäuse zu lösen, da beide immer noch durch mehrere Flachbandkabel verbunden sind.

    • Ziehe an an der Kunststoffnoppe, um das Vakuum des Saugnapfes zu öffnen.

    • Entferne den Saugnapf von der Display Einheit.

    Cracked my screen using the supplied suction cup. Had to apply clear packing tape to screen to very patiently finish the job. However, now I need a new screen. How nice :-(

    Scott Stathis - Antwort

    I added a double face tape in the suction cup to make it work, and then, I did not try to remove it until I had unplugged the screen. It was inconvenient not being able to work with the screen in a horizontal position when removing the ‘home button’ but it wasn’t also the end of the world.

    Andre Silva - Antwort

    To reassemble, make sure you slide the little counterparts on the top of the display under the phone’s frame first. See this answer: Screen won't close tight after reassembly. To close the display after that, I simply turned the device around (on a cloth) and pushed down on the frame with a lot of pressure. Much better than trying to close each edge individually by hand.

    ursbraem - Antwort

  8. Öffne das Telefon weit genug, um die Metallklammer, die das Home Button Kabel bedeckt, offenzulegen. Öffne das Telefon nicht zu weit oder du riskierst eine Beschädigung des Home Button Kabels oder seines Anschlusses auf dem Logic Board. Das Kabel sollte locker sein – wenn es straff gespannt ist, ist es zuviel. Nur die Original Home Button Einheit ermöglicht die Nutzung der Touch ID Funktion. Falls das Kabel beschädigt wurde, stellt die Installation einer neuen Home Button Einheit nur die normalen Funktionen wieder her, nicht aber die Touch ID Funktion.
    • Öffne das Telefon weit genug, um die Metallklammer, die das Home Button Kabel bedeckt, offenzulegen.

    • Öffne das Telefon nicht zu weit oder du riskierst eine Beschädigung des Home Button Kabels oder seines Anschlusses auf dem Logic Board. Das Kabel sollte locker sein – wenn es straff gespannt ist, ist es zuviel.

    • Nur die Original Home Button Einheit ermöglicht die Nutzung der Touch ID Funktion. Falls das Kabel beschädigt wurde, stellt die Installation einer neuen Home Button Einheit nur die normalen Funktionen wieder her, nicht aber die Touch ID Funktion.

    • Benutze die Spitze eines Spudgers, um die Klammer freizulegen und sie mit einer Pinzette zu entfernen.

    • Die nächsten beiden Schritte beziehen sich auf den Zusammenbau. Überspringe sie und fahre bei Schritt 12 fort.

    I had put some what more pressure to suck and sensor cable got detached from upper part(display) , now what shall i do , how to fix it ?

    Nikunj - Antwort

    Is the touch ID bracket really important or have any use ? I forgot to put it back… Is it going to malfunction ?

    John Doe - Antwort

    mine did not appear to have a bracket.. I am wondering too if this is going to mess with it?

    Donna Godfrey -

    It's there to keep it firmly in place.

    Didier Daniel -

    My bracket popped out when I opened the screen too far, so if you can’t see the bracket, look around inside your phone. it might be hiding out.

    lucy -

    Mine also doesn't seem to have a bracket. Plus the cable unclipped itself when the screen shot free - yikes. Looks OK though. I guess I'll find out soon enough.

    Gabe - Antwort

    I wrapped a velcro tie loosely around the phone so it wouldn't open up too far. (or could use a zip tie) Then while holding the screen down with one hand, I pulled the suction cup up with the other hand, using gradual pressure. while using a "wiggeling" upward pressure, I concentrated on raising the left side of the screen, which gradually started to loosen up. then I concentrated on the lower left corner until I had enough of a gap to work in the the flat surface of the plastic tool. I then pried on this corner. The screen then popped up without stressing the home button cable.


    Harry Jones - Antwort

    Genius. Pure genius.

    Aiden Baker -

    I found that when replacing the plate/cover, a pair of needle nosed tweezers held the plate by the 2 holes rather than by the edges (it jumped out repeatedly). I have taken a picture but need to upload it if its required? I also found that taking the new battery out of it's wrapper once out the box has to be done very carefully as the ribbon cable caught on the wrapper so be warned...

    andy - Antwort

    DITCH THE BRACKET! It's unnecessary, as the cable will never come loose under ordinary use. The bracket is also a danger in that if you open the case too far, the TouchID cable could break; without the bracket the cable will detach. Finally, reattaching that bracket is a nightmare. My wife, who drops her phone a lot and requires several new screens a year, has never had her bracket-free cable come lose.

    Max Powers - Antwort

    God bless you! My bracket flew off & vanished into thin air. I actually spent more time searching for it than replacing the battery. Everything seems to function without it- but your post (and your wife’s experience) puts my mind at ease. Thanks~

    madriverlauri -

    You say you have to use the original home button. But what is the button "bound" to? The motherboard?

    Iver søbakk - Antwort

    Yep. Bound to the phone CPU.

    Michael Walker -

    When I lifted my screen during this step, the metal LCD shield plate did not come out with the screen. Very confusing. I needed to carefully pry around the shield plate's side notches, just inside the walls of the iPhone's back, in order to lift it out. Required a trifle bit more force than I anticipated.

    Zac Imboden - Antwort

    I’m already limited to using a touch screen home button. (physical home button stopped responding but fingerprint works) Would this take away that functionality of my on screen home button? does this affect the fingerprint security feature?

    Kris704 - Antwort

    I used the 5S battery kit that iFixit shipped me and attached the suction cup to the screen and gently started pulling to lift the screen. It lifted revealing a very slight crack and I used the spudger tool with the suction cup still lifting away gently and it opened more. At no point did I see any home button cable???

    When the screen came off more I continued to follow all the other instructions and have got to step 23 … I see no battery adhesive tab???

    Just loads of black electrical tape blending in with the battery seal. So now I have no clue how to complete taking the battery out?

    Completely bummed at this point….

    Alun Williams - Antwort

    Sounds like you’ve got an iPhone 5. This guide is for the 5s. ;)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Be forewarned: make sure you really really want that new battery or display replacement, because you are VERY likely to lose your Touch ID feature on your phone after taking this step. It is extremely sensitive. The front of the bracket is the point of tension that holds it in place. In my case, as I carefully used the spudger to release the bracket, the released tension shot the bracket out of the phone and the Touch ID cable popped out of its socket with it. This gave me a start but I inspected both parts and they appeared to be fine. I finished the battery replacement, and put the cable back in place only to discover: no Touch ID. Even after I re-opened the phone two more times and finally figured out how to properly reseat the bracket, Touch ID was gone. Judging by this experience the Touch ID cable/pins must be insanely sensitive – perhaps one pin was dislodged by a fraction of a millimeter? I can’t say for sure. But sadly after repeated and careful attempts to reseat it, my Touch ID is lost for good. :(

    N B - Antwort

    Same here. I thought I was being very careful but ended up damaging something even though everything looked fine. No more TouchID for this old iPhone 5S…

    Michael Walker -

    There’s an easy solution to this step: use hemostats (miniature vice grip). Took me about 10 seconds (after over an hour using various other tools).

    Robert Smith - Antwort

    Attention in this part!! I had to put more pressure than I should, then the bracket flew away and the cable also unplugged all together (probably placed the spudger beneath the cable instead of only beneath the bracket). I was lucky nothing bad happened, but I lost total control in this step (it was my only mistake).

    Andre Silva - Antwort

    Tape the screen to the case on the sides with some slack to keep the screen from opening too far.

    Nace - Antwort

    My screen came out too far and the flexcable got ripped out of the home button :/

    Your solution should be part of the official guide, it’s practical and everyone has tape at home, wish I had it done this way.

    alf -

    Just wedge the sharp end of the forceps between the bracket and the plug and push until the bracket pops open. That way there is no danger of tearing out the entire socket.

    Imre Treufeld - Antwort

    One way to easily access the bracket (for removal and for insertion) is to rotate the display around the cable connection horizontally, so that the screen is not above the bracket but rather to the side.

    When disassembling, note that the screen assembly is hinged to the bottom on the edge away from the home button. After first opening the screen to about 30 degrees as above, slide the screen in the direction where the home button was to disengage this hinge (this is the first bullet item in step 13 below). Then rotate to expose the bracket to eyes and tweezers.

    Yishai Sered - Antwort

    This metal bracket snaps over the plug, and there appears to be a snap detent on the front of the bracket (side facing the charging port). The first photo for this step show the spudger on the side closest to the battery (above the holes in the bracket). I would recommend pulling up on the side closest to the charging port. Also, as others mentioned, when this releases it will go flying - mine did too.

    Take note of how it’s oriented before you pop it loose - it only goes on one way (can’t be rotated 180 degrees)

    When re-installing the bracket later, I inserted the side closet to the battery first (like the 2nd photo in Step 10 below), then rotated it down (pressing it down). It snaps back in place

    spyder13b - Antwort

    completed the operation without any real problems, except the Touch ID cable bracket, which was tricky.

    But when all was together - the phone is dead - no screen - just black even when attached to loading cable.

    I went back in and made sure the battery cable was clicked in, reassembled and have the same problem.

    Rosalind - Antwort

    Is the photo (step #9, photo #3) wrong? The bracket has a rectangular shape. On one of the shorter sides (of the rectangle), the rectangle is ‘open’. Shouldn’t this be the route for the cable?

    xtian - Antwort

  9. Während dem Wiederzusammenbau musst du die Abdeckung des Touch ID Kabels wieder anbringen. Die obere Kante muss zwischen dem Akku und dem Anschluss des Touch ID Kabels liegen, die untere über den Anschluss ragen und davor einrasten. Schiebe die Oberseite von links nach rechts über den Anschluss des Touch ID Kabels.
    • Während dem Wiederzusammenbau musst du die Abdeckung des Touch ID Kabels wieder anbringen. Die obere Kante muss zwischen dem Akku und dem Anschluss des Touch ID Kabels liegen, die untere über den Anschluss ragen und davor einrasten.

    • Schiebe die Oberseite von links nach rechts über den Anschluss des Touch ID Kabels.

    This is the hardest part lol

    Bob smith - Antwort

    I concur! I think I need thinner tweezers.

    FierDancr -

    1) Reassembly: Note the orientation, 2 clips toward the battery, 1 clip toward the bottom of the phone. Mine didn't "latch down" or stay in place - it just sort of sat there.

    2) Note that the rest of the bracket this attaches to must be removed from the Lightning Connector assembly & reattached to the new one.

    3) I combined this repair w/replacing the battery, and smashed the bottom of the bracket under the battery/adhesive strips. Careful not to do that, so that you can actually complete this step.

    seijihuzz01 - Antwort

    1) Reassembly: Note the orientation, 2 clips toward the battery, 1 clip toward the bottom of the phone.

    Sorry, but I believe this is wrong. Besides, the ‘clip(s)’ is not the important feature here. This bracket has a rectangular footprint, and one of the two shorter sides (of the rectangle) is open. This open side, I believe, is the route for the cable.

    xtian -

    Comment above was made on the Lightning Connector replacement guide - I guess it got pulled over here since as well since the steps are identical ... Anyway careful not to smash the bottom bracket w/the replacement battery or adhesive

    seijihuzz01 - Antwort

    That was fun without tweezers :)

    Oscar - Antwort

    Even with tweezers (the eyebrow kind) it was still an exercise in extreme calming techniques. I nearly gave up, but after 20 minutes I finally got it to seat and clamp.

    natzulf -

    It is fiddly and access is tight as all the connectors are in place. However, if you approach at the correct angle so that you are looking to latch the connector next to the battery first... Once this is in place and secure then gently push down the front of the bracket over the cable.

    copeconsultancy - Antwort

    I think it's the pics and the word 'slide' that throws people off. I tried this around 20 times to 'slide' it on from the left side, and was getting frustrated. My friend came over, laid the cover on the top, and just snapped it down into place. Still the guide had this down for me in 30 minutes even with the 'hardest part' haha and the part from ifixit worked and looked perfect.

    Brent Hillyer - Antwort

    After reading the comments I was not looking forward to this step on re-assembly. I agree that the pictures and the instruction to “slide” the bracket into place may be worrisome. But I was able to orient the bracket directly over where it was supposed to go. Then inserted the 2 clips (top) in first and easily and gently snapped the bottom clip into place. Probably spent less than a minute on this part.

    Jere -

    After about 20 minutes I wonder if I could just snap it in place. I did it in about 15 seconds.

    The “slide part and accompanying images are really misleading.

    jpfranc -

    It took me 10 minutes to accomplish this step; 9’:55’’ I spent reading the comments and 0:05’’ plugging the bracket the way you describe. This step step should be edited in this guide. It is definitely misleading people.

    Andre Silva -

    I tried this around 20 times to 'slide' it on from the left side, and was getting frustrated. My friend came over, laid the cover on the top, and just snapped it down into place.

    Tried this and yes, it worked well. Touch ID works.

    Basil Skrnk -

    DITCH THE BRACKET! It's unnecessary, as the cable will never come loose under ordinary use. The bracket is also a danger in that if you open the case too far, the TouchID cable could break; without the bracket the cable will detach. Finally, reattaching that bracket is a nightmare. My wife, who drops her phone a lot and requires several new screens a year, has never had her bracket-free cable come lose.

    Max Powers - Antwort

    Not everyone should ditch the bracket just because you did. The bracket is there to keep everything firmly in place.

    Didier Daniel -

    I did finally leave it off. I’m sure if I worked for Foxconn I could snap those on in seconds flat. After 30minutes of trying I figured it would either work or I’d have to spring fo a new phone. It just wasn’t gonna happen for me. Right now it’s working so it’s all about reliability now

    Bill Pennock -

    I'm not so patient, so I finally gave up and ditched the bracket. No problem so far. Anyway, ditch it at your own risk!

    Daniel del Saz -

    On an old 5S, the metal retainer bracket snapped in easily. There was no sliding, the rear edge dropped in straight, it hinged down, and locked almost before I knew it. The lack of a click or any positive feel on this critical connector surprised me a lot. I had to eyeball it with a magnifier to feel sure the ribbon connector was really in its socket. Works perfectly after the replacement, though.

    Jeff Clayton - Antwort

    All this time I was trying to put the bracket right next to the battery but that's not right. There's no way the bumps on the metal connector can fit in the slots on the bracket. It's battery, metal connector and then the bracket. So easy. Next time I dismantle an iPhone 5S I won't be dreading this step.

    Kim Mace - Antwort

    I should NOT have had that cup of coffee before I attempted this!

    Cory Powell - Antwort

    This was definitely the fiddliest bit of the whole reassembly.

    After trying the slide in and then press method many times without success I ended up feeding it in directly with the tweezers, carefully angling it back up into position, then clipping it down. But the whole thing took at least 5 minutes. And my shaky hands didn’t help matters!

    Toby Moncaster - Antwort

    I was sweting gallons during this step!

    Timothy Owens - Antwort

    The replacement of the bracket was tricky. The bracket has to be put in under the two tiny tabs in the back (next to the battery) and then pushing down in the front. I knew I had it when I heard a little click from the one tab in the front seating.

    Ron Wagner - Antwort

    HI Ron, you are almost right. Or at least I did clip in the front part first and then just push the back while the back side was in between the home button connector and that two pins (the bracket on the “board”). As you said it just click in and you could hear. That was after I tried put the back first and then clip the front for 15 min.

    Martin Chudomel -

    This step needs to be explained better! The metal bracket needs to be slid in front of the metal connector near the battery and then clicked down. I've been stuck on this step as I kept trying to slide it between the metal connector and battery!!

    Whitney Hourigan - Antwort

    Updated the text a bit, while correct, it didn’t mention the metal tab in relation to the battery and cable connector. Hope this helps the next person!

    Sam Goldheart -

    And for this step felt like a life long career of tiddly winks had commenced

    Jake Baxter - Antwort

    It is confusing in reassembly, that the steps 10 and 11 are in the ascending order, because we follow the guide backwards (I suggest explaining the correct sequence: …, 12, 10, 11, and ??. ?? —> This is another point of confusion, the next step is to fit the screen back in, but because there are many (alternative) steps to open the phone, all the useful comments about closing it are spread among topics 3 to 9. There should have been a box (step) exclusively to the part of fitting the screen , so the explanation is more clear and comments are put all together. There are extremely useful comments here that should be edited in the guide (to make it even better).

    Andre Silva - Antwort

    I am having trouble connecting the home button connector to the phone cpu? Not sure why it's not staying connected but was wondering it there was any advice. I've tried for about 20 minutes just trying to line it up and press it down but no luck…

    Trayvon Banks - Antwort

    3 times I’ve had to repair my 5S & this was the most frustrating part each time. This time I cheated & just placed the cover back on top of the cable & closed the phone up. No clicking or sliding or fumbling with it. Look at it from the left side & it’s a bit easier to see where it winds up, but I didn’t fuss with it. Phone works fine now anyway.

    seijihuzz01 - Antwort


    I struggled for a short time to get the bracket back into place. The bracket has a rectangular footprint. One edge has 1-clip and the other edge has 2-clips. I thought the 1-clip side was a ‘hook’. Haha. NOT! After taking a closer look, I could see the shape and understood how the piece should fit. It SNAPS into place.

    xtian - Antwort

    anyone else have any issues with the home button? i did everything according to the directions, but now the home button/fingerprint id is not working. Help!

    Robert Hartry - Antwort

    Reseating the Touch ID cable connector is definitely the trickiest part.

    Press fit for the connector back into the female connector side doesn’t snap in as it does on the other connectors.

    It took me 3 tries before the Home button would acknowledge the Touch ID. Make sure the connector is fully engaged by gently pushing the connector sidewise with the sprudger after you have seated the connector to make sure it is fully engaged. Gently though until it is clear there is resistance and it does not move.

    paul naecker - Antwort

  10. Drücke die Vorderseite der Touch ID Abdeckung  mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers nach unten über den Anschluss. Wenn sich die Abdeckung nicht bündig abschließen lässt, musst du sie vielleicht entfernen und erneut über den Anschluss schieben.
    • Drücke die Vorderseite der Touch ID Abdeckung mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers nach unten über den Anschluss.

    • Wenn sich die Abdeckung nicht bündig abschließen lässt, musst du sie vielleicht entfernen und erneut über den Anschluss schieben.

    It seems like a couple of these steps are reassembly steps? I wish they would label them as such. This step and step 10 are for reassembly, and it's confusing.

    Sheldon Carpenter - Antwort

    See the information line on Step 9 that says this exact thing?

    Elliot Fleming - Antwort

  11. Benutze die Spitze eines Spudgers, um die Home Button Kabelverbindung nach oben aus ihrem Anschluss zu hebeln. Vergewissere dich, dass du die Kabelverbindung von ihrem Anschluss trennst und nicht den ganzen Anschluss nach oben hebelst. Der Anschluss befindet sich auf seinem eigenen festverklebten Kabel, das nach oben gehebelt werden kann, wenn du nicht aufpasst.
    • Benutze die Spitze eines Spudgers, um die Home Button Kabelverbindung nach oben aus ihrem Anschluss zu hebeln.

    • Vergewissere dich, dass du die Kabelverbindung von ihrem Anschluss trennst und nicht den ganzen Anschluss nach oben hebelst. Der Anschluss befindet sich auf seinem eigenen festverklebten Kabel, das nach oben gehebelt werden kann, wenn du nicht aufpasst.

    Upon reassembly, I found this easier once I was looking at the connection from the bottom of the phone, as pictured. I had been trying to line up the connector from the side. Once I put on magnifying glasses and had really good light, I lined it up and slipped my finger in for the click.

    Oh, in a moment of relief after getting the cable connected, I quickly closed up the phone, forgetting to put the metal bracket covering the home button cable back on. I had to re-open the case. Don't be like me!

    Keystone - Antwort


    The original part bends the bottom home button connector back on itself into a bracket you have to remove (not mentioned in later steps).

    That bracket has a bit of adhesive to keep the bottom connector in place.

    The replacement part does not come with a bracket, or additional adhesive, so the bottom connector flops around & can make reassembly a challenge. I found it was best to hold right edge of the bottom in place w/1 finger, and use a 2nd finger to slide the upper cable connector left to right and click it into place.

    seijihuzz01 - Antwort

    Also worth mentioning is that upon reassembly, make sure that the home button cable folds to the left (away from the side with the SIM card) as the front panel will not fit properly otherwise.

    Brian Riess - Antwort


    Zhou Lin - Antwort


    Liu bing -

  12. Sobald der Stecker gelöst wurde, ziehe die Einheit am Ende mit dem Home Button weg vom hinteren Gehäuse, indem du das obere Teil des Telefons als Drehgelenk benutzt. Öffne das Display bis zu einem 90°-Winkel und lehne es gegen einen festen Gegenstand, um es beim Arbeiten in dieser Position zu halten. Ein Gummiband könnte hilfreich sein, um es in dieser Position zu halten und sicherzustellen, dass die Displaykabel nicht beschädigt werden.
    • Sobald der Stecker gelöst wurde, ziehe die Einheit am Ende mit dem Home Button weg vom hinteren Gehäuse, indem du das obere Teil des Telefons als Drehgelenk benutzt.

    • Öffne das Display bis zu einem 90°-Winkel und lehne es gegen einen festen Gegenstand, um es beim Arbeiten in dieser Position zu halten.

    • Ein Gummiband könnte hilfreich sein, um es in dieser Position zu halten und sicherzustellen, dass die Displaykabel nicht beschädigt werden.

    • Als Trick kannst du eine ungeöffnete Getränkedose als Halterung verwenden.

    maak een constructie waar de iPhone in valt en waarbij het scherm in een hoek van 90 graden kan worden gefixeerd, dan hoef je drie kabeltjes niet los te maken. Is mij heel goed gelukt .

    Joop Roos - Antwort

    Out of curiosity I decided to use google translate…here it is in English. “make a construction where the iPhone falls and the screen can be fixed at a 90 degree angle, you do not have to unlock three cables. I did very well.”

    Kelly Ann - Antwort

  13. Entferne die beiden 1,6 mm Kreuzschlitz #000 Schrauben, die die Metallabdeckung über dem Akkuanschluss auf dem Logic Board befestigen.
    • Entferne die beiden 1,6 mm Kreuzschlitz #000 Schrauben, die die Metallabdeckung über dem Akkuanschluss auf dem Logic Board befestigen.

    I don't see why steps 14, 15, and 16 are even necessary. I was able to remove the scene without removing the battery (skipping these 3 steps)

    Luke Lin - Antwort

    See Jonathan Goldsmith's comment ;)

    Didier Daniel -

    Working on the phone without removing the battery will most likely damage the component. My OnePlus One runs extremely slow after working on it without removing the battery. I think it's a problem with the GPU, because the display was very slow to update the screen contents.

    Peter Pan - Antwort

    Pan is right. Not removing the battery means you will run the risk of shorting some circuits not meant to be connected, and thus can damage those components. This can happen very easily, and without you even knowing it. Additionally, the internal components of a digital device are not meant to be disconnected while having any amount of power applied(and even though your device may not even turn on because the battery is completely shot, there very likely will still be a small amount of power coming from the battery to the internal components of the device). Doing so will likely cause an overcurrent condition that will damage the components of the device.

    Jonathan Goldsmith - Antwort

    Now my problem, however, is that the screws on this bracket do not seem to want to unscrew. :(

    Jonathan Goldsmith - Antwort

    Okay, the problem would seem to have been with the screwdriver that came with my iFixit battery "Fix kit". Tried another screwdriver, and no problems at all.

    Jonathan Goldsmith - Antwort

    Phillips #000 provided with the iFixit repair kit does not fit the screws

    Vitaly Kirichenko - Antwort

    I agree the #000 Phillips driver didn't work. I happened to already have a #0 Phillips that did work much better.

    Bruce Peffley -

    Same problem here

    Mikkel Albrechtsen -

    The screwdriver that came with the kit worked fine for me when I applied pressure with my palm to the end of the driver and turned the driver with my forefinger and thumb

    Tom Gleason - Antwort

    The ifixit #000 works…if you put an uncomfortable amount of pressure on the driver. Yikes. Use a larger bit if you’ve got it.

    Chris Wiley - Antwort

    i damaged the bottom screw with the phillips00 ifixit screwdriver :-(

    Pierre - Antwort

    It’d be nice if the iFixit people could address this problem with the PH000 driver. I am afraid of stripping the screw head because the PH000 I was sent doesn’t come close to catching in the screw head.

    orders - Antwort

    If you are having an issue with the PH#000 bit included with your iFixit Fix Kit then you can contact our customer support team at support@ifixit.com.

    Tom Gantt - Antwort

    The two screws are not exactly same size. (But very similar)

    If you switch them you’ll have issues with Bluetooth. I’m sorry but I don’t remember where is going the longer screw.

    pfx - Antwort

    With my phone I needed to use a PH0000 screwdriver. The provided PH000 (and my own from another screwdriver set) was too large. Indeed, every Phillips head screw in my phone needed the PH0000 and not the PH000 driver.

    rhowehmd - Antwort

  14. Entferne die Metallabdeckung aus deinem iPhone.
    • Entferne die Metallabdeckung aus deinem iPhone.

    Not clear to me why this and the next step are necessary for a screen replacement...

    Daniel Goldschmidt - Antwort

    Using the iFixit tweezers to remove the bracket caused a spark. I used the plastic spudger instead.

    Bryan Remely - Antwort

    Is this tutorial or the iPhone SE? The battery should be 1624mAh but these pictures go back and forth between showing 1510and 1560mAh. Why are pictures showing different batteries, and why isn't it showig the 1624mAh for the 5 SE?

    Someone Somewhere - Antwort

    After installing the New iPhone 5s Lightning Connector Replacement I noticed there was no foam on top of the new plug, leaving bare metal exposed. I cut a small piece of electricians tape to be placed on top of the new plug to keep it from coming in contact with the metal battery connector bracket

    Scott Nacke - Antwort

  15. Heble den Akkustecker mit einem Spudger vorsichtig von seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board. Heble vorsichtig nur an dem Akkustecker und nicht am Anschluss auf dem Logic Board. Wenn du an der Logic Board Buchse hebelst, kannst du den Anschluss irreparabel beschädigen.
    • Heble den Akkustecker mit einem Spudger vorsichtig von seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board.

    • Heble vorsichtig nur an dem Akkustecker und nicht am Anschluss auf dem Logic Board. Wenn du an der Logic Board Buchse hebelst, kannst du den Anschluss irreparabel beschädigen.

    pourquoi faire?

    Alexis Camper - Antwort

    Skip steps17-22. Just be extra careful and secure the screen. Less to go wrong the less you open.

    William Stein - Antwort

    Also order the headband magnifier. It really helps with the tiny components you are working with.

    William Stein - Antwort

    A way to skip step 17-22

    I unfolded as next step the display in a perpendicular way (so display unit and rest of the device in 90°) and fixed the display with an elastic band at an opened iPhone packaging box. Then I continued directly at step 23 with the removal of the battery without removing the display unit at all. Worked very well without any problems… and now I’m curious whether the new battery really powers the device for a longer time :-)

    Rolf Enderes - Antwort

    I also skipped the step of removing the dispaly, instead using a rubber band to secure the display to the iPhone box. Worked great, and avoided the hassle of disconnecting the display.

    Daniel Melchior - Antwort

    I skipped this step and I also removed my display. I don’t know what will happen in the future but there’s no problems till now...

    Ran Mika (Tshukimi Elune) - Antwort

    I didn’t realize that each of the photos contained different steps until later on, (the photos look very similar to each other in the thumbnails), and so I don’t think I removed the 2nd part of the battery attachment as its in the 2nd photo. I figured it out later, but only after step 20, which requires that the battery is fully disconnected before doing. Oops!

    Everything else went well though, and I’ve since reinstalled the battery, drained it, and recharged, and it seems to be fine. Will cross my fingers and hope I didn’t damage anything.

    Nancy Zan - Antwort

    If you do remove the display, it is helpful before removing the four diffferently sized screws to tape down a piece of masking tape, sticky side up, and remove them in a defined order, sticking them to the tape as you go. Then there’s no chance of mixing them up when you re-assemble.

    john lawn - Antwort

    Agree with William Stein above. Skip Steps 17-22. Simply secure the top of your phone with a rubber band to something sturdy. A 14 oz. can of kidney beans will do. I followed all of the other directions and the repair went smoothly and I didn’t lose Touch ID functionality. It was not necessary to heat my phone to remove the adhesive strips. I simply gently stretched and continually pulled at the base of the adhesive strip. Was rather surprised at how easy it was. Hardest part is re-attaching the home button cable connector and re-inserting the Touch ID cable bracket. When it’s time to reassemble those parts, be sure to go back through Steps 9-12, reading all of the comments for helpful tips. Used a Disney-Pixar-like desk lamp for good lighting and, also, the back of a refrigerator magnet to place the screws while working.

    CMac - Antwort

    Skip or Not to Skip, that is the question.

    I opted to skip the screen removal at first. Only when I had to replace the adhesive strips did I change my mind. Looking at the adhesive removal page, I believe the freedom of movement allowed without the screen in the way is key to successfully applying the adhesive strips.

    xtian -

    I followed the directions of pulling the tabs and I just went super slow and continued to move my placement down lower and closer to the base of the battery and wow came out so clean nothing to even scrape off. I did an iPhone 5 but it didn't have this adhesive. The battery was barely stuck inside so I got lucky being that the battery was swollen. Apple actually gave me a new iPhone 5 when my phones battery was swollen during the Apple 5 bad battery replacement.

    Heather - Antwort

  16. Entferne die folgenden Schrauben, die die Abdeckung der Displaykabel am Logic Board befestigen:
    • Entferne die folgenden Schrauben, die die Abdeckung der Displaykabel am Logic Board befestigen:

    • Eine 1,7 mm Kreuzschlitz #000 Schraube

    • Eine 1,2 mm Kreuzschlitz #000 Schraube

    • Eine 1,3 mm Kreuzschlitz #000 Schraube

    • Noch eine 1,7 mm Kreuzschlitz #000 Schraube

    • Diese 1,7 mm Schraube wird in der Regel nicht von einem magnetisierten Schraubenzieher angezogen. Passe auf, dass du sie beim Entfernen nicht verlierst.

    • Es ist besonders wichtig, beim Wiederzusammenbau die Reihenfolge der Schrauben zu beachten. Beim versehentlichen Verwenden der 1,3 mm Schraube oder der 1,7 mm Schrauben im rechten unteren Loch wird ein beträchtlicher Schaden am Logic Board verursacht, der dazu führt, dass das Telefon nicht länger einwandfrei bootet.

    • Achte darauf, die Schrauben nicht zu fest zu ziehen. Wenn diese sich nicht einfach rein drehen lassen haben sie vielleicht die falsche Größe.

    Two screws at the bottom should be the most short, two screws on top are the longest, you got it wrong.Please official verification again, and reply to me. Thank you!

    CLAUDE - Antwort

    Hi Claude,

    Unfortunately I forgot to check at dis-assembly which screw goes back where at step 11 so I ended up following the instructions although, I would find it logical that the longer screws are for the top and the shorter ones for the bottom holes, which is what you mentioned also . I anyway ended up following the instructions and all went well except that I am now unable to hear anything while in a phone call connected to the Bluetooth in my car. The phone connects, I have the battery and network status on the screen of my car, I can receive SMS on the car's screen, I can stream music to the speakers but I cannot hear anything while in a call. I can hear the call ringing in the car speakers, I can answer it but after that it's silent.

    So, I was wondering:

    1. Did you hear back on your comment from iFixit?

    2. Did you install the screws back the way you mentioned in your comment? Did it work?

    3. Did you check / note down the position of the screws at dis-assembly?

    Thanks in advance.



    corneliumusat -

    Can anyone answer if the blue strips on the crews indicate which screws they are? They are all so small it's hard to find the right lengths for each hole

    Ariel Drotter -

    Does anyone know if the blue strips on the screws indicate their length? I'm finding it very hard to distinguish the lengths

    Ariel Drotter -

    @Ariel - The blue that you are seeing on the screws is simply leftover loctite compound that is used to prevent the screws from working their way loose during every day use and does not give any indication as to the length of the screw. You should notice that, generally, you have two lengths of screws out of the 4 that came out...2 with longer threads and two with shorter threads. The two with shorter threads need to go in the bottom two holes...these two screws are not exactly the same length (difference of 0.1 mm), but mixing them up should not cause any harm to the phone due to such a small difference. With the two longer ones that are leftover, only one of them will be magnetically attracted to your screwdriver...this is the one that goes in the top left hole. The one that does not easily attract to your screwdriver goes in the top right.

    iGuys -

    Hi Everyone,

    Claude is right, after re-arranging the screws so that the top two are the longest, bottom-right shortest and bottom left is the second-shortest the in-call audio came back with Bluetooth calls.

    The same was found and posted by Pete on the Apple Support Communities forums and, as mentioned, I can also confirm that this fix works.

    Hope this helps.



    corneliumusat - Antwort

    The magnetic mat its priceless I found. As I removed screws, I placed on magnetic mat and labeled right away. Reassembly time was a breeze.

    RayBob - Antwort

    Upside-down masking tape also works well, especially when labelled with corresponding step for each bit of parts!

    W Fleming -

    i did the battery replacement and now my gyro isnt working. I did not know the screws had different lengths. Think it will be ok if i take apart and put correctly or do i need a new logic board??

    William Boggs - Antwort

    The two 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screws should be placed on top and the 1.2 & 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screw at the bottom.

    If you do not respect that order, the Bluetooth calls feature will not work anymore.

    Please change all the versions including this step.

    Louis Torres - Antwort

    I skipped steps 11-16 and that worked pretty well from me. On another commenter's advice, I simply used some packaging tape to tape onto the top of the screen, over the top of the phone, and onto the back of the phone to hold the display at a right angle to the rest of the device. Saved me all the trouble/risk of disconnecting the display, but if you use this method you should be VERY careful not to hit the display while removing the battery.

    lambdahindiii - Antwort

    I completely agree with lambdahindiii, skip steps 11 - 16 completely. You do have to be careful not to flip open the display, but it's manageable with some care.

    I will give disclaimer that I used 3.0x magnification with surgical loupes. Any kind of magnification will help. Also recommend using an LED head lamp for optimal illumination.

    wmlee1 -

    I'm going to upvote the suggestion to skip steps 11- 16 too.

    Some things to look out for:

    - Both the battery adhesive strips broke off for me so I had to pry the battery out. You do have to be careful as a good amount of pressure is needed to remove the battery that you don't twist the top display and break the connectors. It's just a trade-off of risks though - you won't have to worry about losing or inserting the wrong screws for the front panel connectors either.

    - The metal connector over the touch ID button is hard to put back in. It looks like one piece on the video but it's a separate metal piece that goes over the connector.

    - To open the case with the suction cup, I found it useful to place the cup more to one side, and lift that side up first and then work on the other side.

    Take your time and good luck all

    wilten -

    I agree. The steps to remove the display are unnecessary. I skipped these and had no issues.

    Matt Reier -

    On my phone it actually seems like one of the 1.7mm screws is non-magnetic (the other 3 screws are magnetic). Although this could be a botched repair job from a previous owner...

    I guess if it's intentional, it should be the top-right one, as that is closest to the compass IC.

    woods81 - Antwort

    You're right. The top right screw must be non-ferrous stainless. I've repaired tons of the5-5s and that screw is never magnetic.

    BJS -

    You are absolutely correct — the upper right one is the non-ferrous / non-magnetic one. I’ve made corrections to this guide and the guide for the iPhone 5 but each time the edits have been denied, once by @Reed Danis and the previous by @Walter Galan. Not sure why they’re denied — it’s obvious which one doesn’t stick to a magnetic screwdriver. This mistake makes these guides quite unreliable and will screw (ha) with the compass.

    Drtofu -

    Apparently it is non magnetic so as not to interfere with the compass. The iPhone 6 has moved tis down to the bottom near the battery connector.

    Jack -

    I was fixing a broken screen, when I noticed that the guy that had started the job before leaving it to me, had mixed up the screws for the battery that he changed by himself and step 11. So i started searching around for an answer when the startup just looped with the Apple logo. and I of course started here, and found out that he had mixed up the screws, but step 11 here, and the same step at this link: http://www.irepairnational.com/iphone-5s...

    shows two different ways to where the 1,2mm and the 1,7mm screws are being placed.

    what is the correct way?

    alexaamo91 - Antwort

    i had the 'blue screen of death' and here was my workaround:

    Apple logo then blue screen

    kgale4 -

    I was wondering exactly the same thing why we need to un-screw the screen? Anyway place the screws in the order they come and you should find no problems putting them back in right order.

    Also I found the screw driver comes with ifixit battery kit does not fit in the screws perfectly. Feeling a little large for these screws. Anyone else had the same experience?

    fredhdx - Antwort

    Because this guide is for more than one repair option instead of them having to type out several this fits in for replacment of screen. I didn't hav the kit but my #000 wasn’t the best for all I used a #00 just depends on if the tip isn't real pointy

    Heather -

    The screw 1.7mm screw (highlighted green) was magnetic on the phone I repaired, while the standoff near it in step #27 was not (*see my note in #27). Either I have different parts or the magnetism note was swapped. If anyone else can confirm or deny this it’d help the guide. Thanks.

    mnoivad - Antwort

    Invest in several colored Sharpie pens. When you see a red circle on the guide, tap that screw head with a red sharpie, orange, green, blue and so forth. This makes it almost fool-proof to not mix up your screws when re-assembling the phone or any other piece of equipment.

    Pete H - Antwort

    I cannot unscrew the Philips #000 screws in this step using iFixit's Philips #000 screwdriver. The screw does not even turn at all. I wonder about the screwdriver iFixit is using in the video - https://youtu.be/k_OpjhKAUCM?t=180 . Can we buy it ?

    Daylen - Antwort

    Putting the upper screws back in the bracket is a bit tricky--if you hold the screen at 90 degrees, the connector cables lift up the loose bracket, but if you lower the screen to allow the bracket to lay flat, you can't reach with a screw driver. Be very slow and patient and replace the upper left screw last (after the first three are tight)--these will hold down the bracket fairly well so you can aim the last (upper left) screw into the hole and push down as you tighten.

    bartonh - Antwort

    That is exactly how I did it; good hint. Thanks.

    Andre Silva -

    So I managed to loose the top right (non magnetic) screw. I saw it fall to the table, but it's gone. Wonder if it fell back into the phone, as there is a slight rattle sound when I shake it. Will there be any big surprises if I just reassemble without that screw?

    larserikkolden - Antwort

    If you keep the top steady these steps (17-22) could be skipped. That's how I did. Everything is ok.except screwdriver didn't undo upper one of the battery bracket I had to bend the bracket.

    Mehmet Hakan - Antwort

    I noticed that reassembling my device, if the metal bracket touch the hole of the 1.3mm screw the touch stopped working. I had to put a little piece of plastic between the hole and the bracket unable to put the screw in (or it would make contact between the hole and the bracket).

    Any suggestion?

    denis.g.94 - Antwort

    Hi Denis, could you be a bit more specific as to which metal bracket you are referring to please? also, where did you put the piece of plastic? Thank you.

    jamesmclachlan -

    Denis, could you be more specific please? Which metal bracket causes the problem and where did you put the piece of plastic?

    I have the same problem, (lost touch screen function).

    jamesmclachlan -

    Trying to get the screws into the holes and driving them in was extraordinarily challenging due in large part to their magnetic bond. Screws didn't want to leave the driver, once they were in they flew right back out as soon as the driver came within distance. To combat this, I suggest using a thin, clear tape (I used packing tape) cut into 4 strips and place each screw flat side down on one end of each strip of tape. Now you can easily maneuver and securely hold the screws into their holes as the driver pierces the tape easily screwing them in without losing them or your mind. Also, fridge magnets are good to retrieve screws that have fallen into iPhone's nooks and crannies, likewise from carpeting.

    James Lee - Antwort

    After aligning the bracket over the screw holes, I used the tweezers to pick the screw on its head and position it in the hole. Then, it was not difficult to use the screwdriver to fasten it.

    Andre Silva -

    If I messed up the screw placement, can it be redone and fixed by putting the screws back in prober order?

    Colm Noone - Antwort

    Like James Lee (above), I found reinserting the tiny screws quite difficult because the magnetic screwdriver would pull them out, with the screw adhering to the screwdriver at odd angles. What worked was to insert a screw with tweezers, then START the screw using the non-magnetic plastic pointy tool while holding down the plate so the screw could turn easily. Once the screw was started, I tightened it with the screwdriver.

    Sandy Trevor - Antwort

    Firstly do not just watch the video if you are going to do the battery replacement. I was too busy and stupid and only watched the video and boogered my Girlfiends 5S with the screw replacement boon doggle... You must read the iFix full instructions (forget the video) or you will screw it up!..

    yaterbob - Antwort

    The iFixit Kit I bought does NOT have the right screw driver to remove these screws. Neither phillips screwdrivers work - the point is much too sharp and does not grip the screw at all. Not happy with this purchase right now.

    Richard - Antwort

    Color coding the screw heads is an excellent idea. I used red for red - green for green - and black for orange - left the yellow one uncolored. Did a screen capture and labeled it to avoid confusion.

    Leonard - Antwort

    Also color a small area around the screws on the cable bracket. Makes it real easy to see which screw goes where.

    Leonard -

    I found out that you don’t need the 1.7mm screw. The shorter one will do and I don’t lose bluetooth.

    patjmccarthy - Antwort

    I used colored sharpies to keep track of the screws. I color coded the screw heads and around their holes. Worked like a charm.

    Brigham Okano - Antwort

    I managed to loose the socket of the green screw. Apparently, during my second disassembly of my iPhone the socket (which appears to be screwed in as well) came loose without me noticiing it and promptly vanished later on in the process, never to be seen again. The iPhone does seem to work without it, but still, I’d advise checking that they are still in place when you unmount the metal shield.

    Sven Siggelkow - Antwort

    Erroneamente ho sbagliato la combinazione delle viti e mi si è danneggiata l’iPhone.. che parte devo cambiare ?

    garino1990 - Antwort

    You do not actually have to remove the screen to replace the battery. Just tilt up the screen at a 60 degree angle from the phone and tape it open or have someone hold it up. That way you don’t have to flex the screen wires or inadvertently damage anything.

    Imre Treufeld - Antwort

    I also completed this repair successfully without removing the screen. I kept the screen at a 90 degree angle using the iPhone’s box and a rubber band as pictured in Step 13. I was nervous about bumping it while doing the rest of the steps and stretching the display cables too much, but it worked.

    garygrossman - Antwort

    If anyone is still using the dino-aged iphone 5s like me ;) , please follow the steps rather than the video patiently before putting it into action. The screw placement is extremely crucial during reassemble. I messed the screws up the first time and had problems with touch screen, it wasn’t working. Then I disassembled again. I was lucky to have sufficient eyesight to figure out the 1.7 mm screws - both magnetic and non-magnetic ones. In case of of lower left screw, I put the one I felt (!) the bigger one, and at the end, left the lower right hole unscrewed. It’s working fine now.

    Ananya Roy - Antwort

    I removed the screws and placed them on a white piece of paper in the orientation they belonged in and then removed the bracket covering the cables (step 18). At this point, looking at the 3 cables I needed to remove I thought one of these likely won’t go back on correctly and will be disabled. I had the screen securely at 90 degrees to the base using a juice glass and rubber band so I decided to put the bracket back on and skip to step 23. I wish I had thought of that before removing the screws as these are some tiny screws. It was difficult to see which end was the screw head and get it placed on the screwdriver for inserting into the hole. For the green (nonmagnetized) screw I used the tweezers to get it in the hole and then screwed it in.

    Gary Grinstead - Antwort

    Alas my screws got muddled without me realising and a long one went on the bottom right (as per the warning in the article). When you say “will result in damage”, would either of these count? 1) trapped in a cycle of booting with the white apple logo or 2) trapped in a loop of white apple logo followed by red screen

    Thanks, James

    James - Antwort

    I would think so. Even just lines could be damage to logic board. I got the screws figured out using the link I posted above as a guide to measure but my new screen won’t do anything. I bought it from eBay and I replaced battery first. I could see back light on broken screen prior to replacement and I get the chime when plugged in but absolutely nothing on the screen. I was very careful with the ribbon cables as it comes with them completely flat so I just seated the cables and slowly moved the screen to a 90 degree angle. Could I have broken something's in the ribbon cable?? Or maybe just pos screen? Read comments on seller after this noted is not oem and others had problems. s it possible to conn to iTunes and maybe fix problem if it’s a software issue? I don’t know what else to do at this point. Any help I should appreciated

    Heather -

    One doesn’t actually HAVE to remove the display. But it does make the removal of the battery easier, at it is very well glued to the back case.

    jimbbo - Antwort

    I didn’t set the screws aside so I had to measure which is super hard but here’s a link to an online free ruler and it has a command icon for you to input show me 1.7mm and then you can match up screw lengths. The website is https://www.ginifab.com/feeds/cm_to_inch...

    i hope this helps for anyone who removed the panel without reading the important steps first and i’m female lol.


    Heather - Antwort

    As mentioned, the screws are difficult to re-install. I found that sitting the screw on its head on the table and pressing down with my finger the screw will be set on your finger, head up. Then carefully put Philips driver into screw slot. It should come away and easily inserted into bracket.

    wdbowers - Antwort

    WRONG !!!

    The ONLY 1,7mm it's at the top left corner. All OTHERS are 1.3 mm. The 1.7mm it tue other screw under this part.

    I broke my phone because of this.

    Samuel Roy - Antwort

    is it necessary to put back this plate after reattached screen , cuz i didn’t , for futures swaps

    Nikolai Nikolov - Antwort

    With my phone I needed to use a PH0000 screwdriver. The provided PH000 (and my own from another screwdriver set) was too large. Indeed, every Phillips head screw in my phone needed the PH0000 and not the PH000 driver.

    rhowehmd - Antwort

  17. Entferne die Abdeckung der Displaykabel vom Logic Board.
    • Entferne die Abdeckung der Displaykabel vom Logic Board.

    At my iPhone 5s this part is missing!

    Michael Schöttner - Antwort

  18. Benutze das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um die Frontkamera und das Sensorkabel zu trennen. Benutze das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um die Frontkamera und das Sensorkabel zu trennen.
    • Benutze das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um die Frontkamera und das Sensorkabel zu trennen.

    The flat end of the spudger works great to position and press down on the connectors during reassembly.

    Magnus Dalen - Antwort

    I did not try the spudger (but I think I should have), because this cable was the most difficult to me. It kept flipping (not aligning with the socket) and with one hand holding the screen and the other trying to connect was very difficult .

    Andre Silva -

    As shown in the picture, the cable needed to be pushed back with a bit of a bend to connect it during re-assembly

    Praveen Senadheera - Antwort

    During reassembly, it’s easier to reconnect by first placing the left side (close to battery) and then clicking it into place (than, say, top side first)

    Athanasius Pernath - Antwort

  19. Während du die Display Einheit noch stützt, trenne die Kabelverbindung des Digitizers. Beim Wiederzusammenbau kann das Displaykabel sich vom Anschluss lösen. Dies kann beim Anschalten zu weißen Linien oder einem schwarzen Bildschirm führen. Wenn das passiert verbinde das Kabel einfach erneut und setze dein iPhone zurück. Der einfachste Weg, das zu tun, ist, den Akkuanschluss zu trennen und wieder zu verbinden.
    • Während du die Display Einheit noch stützt, trenne die Kabelverbindung des Digitizers.

    • Beim Wiederzusammenbau kann das Displaykabel sich vom Anschluss lösen. Dies kann beim Anschalten zu weißen Linien oder einem schwarzen Bildschirm führen. Wenn das passiert verbinde das Kabel einfach erneut und setze dein iPhone zurück. Der einfachste Weg, das zu tun, ist, den Akkuanschluss zu trennen und wieder zu verbinden.

    When you reassemble the cables, you can align them with the sockets using the tip of your finger. A spudger or tweezers are way too clunky and is actually far more difficult. When the cable aligns with the socket, give it a firm push with your finger tip and you should be able to feel it click into place. This is actually a pretty tight mechanical fit and is fairly hard to dislodge.

    Sheldon Carpenter - Antwort

    After some 4 seconds stripes start to appear and at the bottom a black band of some 3 mm horizontally over the screen. I've restarted, but it keeps showing a clean screen and then after a while the stripes and band start coming through. Is that a battery issue? And when I slide up the light intensity button, the screen starts shivering.

    Jules JUSTE - Antwort

    And in my wife’s samsung replacing a battery is so easy. I’ve wasted a whole evening and now have broken cables. I get to buy a new screen and no phone for a couple of days. What $@$* is Apple pullig on us here? :(

    Jules JUSTE - Antwort

    Because Apple wants you to just buy a new phone instead of replacing parts.

    Bryan Remely -

    No doubt about that.

    Bryan Thompson - Antwort

    What can I do

    i tried to remove the LCD CABLE WITH A METAL SCISSOR.



    Faheem Sameer - Antwort

    At the bottom and top are some hardly noticeable white stripes and an after reconnecting the cables 3 times with no difference I connected the old screen again. There were no stripes there… The cables on the new screen don’t look damaged. I’ve repaired other phone screens and I think my display has an issue… what should I do now?

    fele felix - Antwort

    So what happens if you don’t disconnect the battery before dis/reconnecting the LCD connector? Can you damage something irreversibly? I have what looks like a bad display ertifacts, lines, overall bustedness…) and am not sure if because I didn’t disconnect the battery…. I was following the lady in the video instead of the guide like an idiot…. She didn’t disconnect the battery. :P

    Tom - Antwort

    What’s the problem with my phone? It shows the Apple Logo but it shows a black screen after. What happened?

    Marcus Liu - Antwort

  20. Trenne schließlich die Kabelverbindung des LCDs. Trenne schließlich die Kabelverbindung des LCDs.
    • Trenne schließlich die Kabelverbindung des LCDs.

    When re-assembling, this is the most difficult cable to re-align and re-connect. A second set of hands is helpful. If not available, be patient and line up the connector carefully. Once reconnected, use care not to 'open' the front cover beyond about 85° to prevent pulling this one back off... If you do, you will have to power-cycle the phone (disconnect the battery) to get things working properly again.

    Pete H - Antwort

    I agree that this was the most difficult step during reassembly. I was trying to use the various tools, but shredded up some of the foam padding on the back of the connectors. After struggling with this for ~20 minutes, I realized just pressing each connector down gently with the tip of my finger snapped each one into place rather easily, no tools necessary.

    ilsedorec - Antwort

    pure genius, this works

    Oliver Markl -

    Reassembly—It’s all about the SNAP!

    I had the last-which-becomes-first connector down. Went to the second, and heard a very satisfying SNAP! Then, I became paranoid. Did the first connector snap? I don’t know?!? How did I put it down? What was that motion? What’s the level of the socket with its surroundings? Frack! I undid both, and the last connector gave a satisfying SNAP, when I disconnected it. HAHA. So now, I was paying close attention. I felt the level of the sockets, studied the Mondrian-like composition, and listened for the SNAP.

    xtian -

    Had to try 4 times until I finally got it right, I would say that less than 80° works well for this step, just take your time and be patient with the screws

    hermosillaignacio - Antwort

    It should be noted somewhere around these steps that all but one of these connections get removed.

    The connection that is left goes to the Power Button, the Mute Switch, and the Volume Buttons. This connection is on the bottom left, below the LCD power connection.

    This connector was not supposed to be removed, and I removed all of them as a force of habit.

    Once removed, it seems I removed part of the other half of the connector along with the first half.

    This has left my customer's iPhone functional, but none of the buttons, besides Home Button/TouchID), work.

    In the long run, this is not a huge issue, as AssistiveTouch can emulate physical button presses. I just figured it should be noted.

    Mikereilly2009 - Antwort

    Using the tool from the opposite side from what is shown here was many times easier (considering I had the front panel attach to a box with the rubber band trick)

    David - Antwort

    Agree, did the same thing.

    Andre Silva -

    After completing the battery replacement, when I turned the phone back on everything worked right except, the rear facing camera. It just shows a black screen. Does anyone know how I can fix this???

    Melissa - Antwort

    After I replaced my battery, I turned the phone back on and everything worked except the rear facing camera. It just shows a black screen now. Does anyone know what I did wrong??? I do I fix this???

    Melissa - Antwort

    after battery replacing the Volume and Sleep buttons don’t work anymore. What I did wrong and what I can do to resolve the problem?


    Nicola - Antwort

    Step one is recheck your connections. If those are all solid, did you need to pry the battery up to remove it? It’s possible that the prying damaged the cables. If you have photos, share them on our Answers Forum, and you might get some better, more specific help!

    Sam Goldheart -

    I accidentally unplugged the power cable and although the digitizer cable is difficult to get plugged in, the power plug is a you know what!

    mcr4u2 - Antwort

  21. Entferne die Display Einheit vom hinteren Gehäuse.
    • Entferne die Display Einheit vom hinteren Gehäuse.

    I replaced my old battery with the one I bought here in iFixit. I replaced the battery according to the instructions of this guide (Using a guitar string did the trick when removing the battery) and finally assembled the sensor ribbon. Turned on the phone and SURPRISE! Error, Touch ID Does Not Work. I was disappointed, in the most part because I was extremely careful, it's not my first repair, and I did not break the ribbon, the Home Button was working properly.

    I spent 4 hours re-seating the ribbon and putting in place the metal bracket.

    For you guys, who have lost Touch ID but didn't break the sensor flex cable AND the Home button works, I thing I have found a SOLUTION:

    As you can see in the picture (link below), a grounding Tip under the screw MUST be in THIS POSITION. If misaligned it will not work. Mine was misaligned during the display disassembly (STEP 16) and this was the solution. A smile returned to my face.



    Oscar Vera - Antwort

    Odd..my Touch ID stopped working after I replaced the battery too and I did not harm the connector cable at all and the bracket was snug in position. Then randomly 2 days later it started working again with all my fingerprints remembered. Weird.

    Bob smith -

    Dear Oscar,

    I am very interested in your comment but the photo is not available any more. Could you send the updated link?

    Thank you very much,


    Alex -

    The link to your photo is still not available. I do not understand which screw is being referred to associated with the fingerprint sensor.

    Toby Parnell -

    To anybody wondering what the picture was, Internet Archive saved it. You can find it here: https://web.archive.org/web/201606120038...

    It’s also the same picture as the 2nd picture in Step 23.

    Bryan Remely -

    Bryan Remely thank you so much. It’s comment threads like this and contributors like you that make the internet such a valuable tool.

    WILL D -

    why cant u disconnect the lcd and just put the new one in reverse from step 16? wgy to step 32

    Cameron Shelley - Antwort

    When you get the old screen off, check the frame edge where the digitizer rests. Mine was caked with gunk that had accumulated there from use. I gently used the tip of a spudger while holding the phone upside-down-ish and scraped out the gunk. Holding it upside-down kept the gunk from falling into the phone.

    Sheldon Carpenter - Antwort

    thanks for that... I didn't even notice it until I saw your comment.

    Brian Hayes -

    I’m completely confused about removing the connectors to the screen. It looks to me as though the battery could come out with the screen still attached. How am I wrong?

    Lance - Antwort

  22. Fahre mit der Spitze eines Spudgers zwischen den Akku und die Kopfhörerbuchse, um den Akku Klebestreifen offenzulegen. Wichtig: Wärme die Unterseite des iPhone-Gehäuses mit einem iOpener oder einem ähnlichen Heizkissen auf, um die Batterie-Klebestreifen aufzuweichen und sie flexibler zu machen, sonst werden sie wahrscheinlich brechen, wenn du an ihnen ziehst.. Wichtig: Wärme die Unterseite des iPhone-Gehäuses mit einem iOpener oder einem ähnlichen Heizkissen auf, um die Batterie-Klebestreifen aufzuweichen und sie flexibler zu machen, sonst werden sie wahrscheinlich brechen, wenn du an ihnen ziehst..
    • Fahre mit der Spitze eines Spudgers zwischen den Akku und die Kopfhörerbuchse, um den Akku Klebestreifen offenzulegen.

    • Wichtig: Wärme die Unterseite des iPhone-Gehäuses mit einem iOpener oder einem ähnlichen Heizkissen auf, um die Batterie-Klebestreifen aufzuweichen und sie flexibler zu machen, sonst werden sie wahrscheinlich brechen, wenn du an ihnen ziehst..

    When you put the new battery back in, it's important to fold that tab back down along the bottom edge of the battery--do not let the tab rest on top of the battery. If you do, that minute extra thickness is enough to press ever-so-slightly on the LCD and cause the LCD to exhibit color distortion when you press the home button.

    bartonh - Antwort

    You can't really see it in these pictures, but there is a small hole at one end of the "pull tab". This is just the right size hole for the pointy end of the apple tool spudger, and thus is very handy for pulling the tab out.

    Jonathan Goldsmith - Antwort

    I used a toothpick to unfold the tab.

    Cassandra - Antwort

    I do not see any battery adhesive tab … Certainly nothing with any round hole in it … Now I am bummed…

    Please see my previous comments at Step # 9.

    No home button connector cable, no sign of any battery adhesive tab.

    It seems I am now stuck with a useless phone …. This did not help at all … I bought a kit that is no use, a new / replacement battery that I can’t even use … :-/

    Bummed ex- customer. Would not recommend ifixit for this idea.

    Alun Williams - Antwort

    If there’s no home button cable and no battery tabs, you don’t have a 5s. More likely you’re working on an iPhone 5.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I couldn’t find a tab either . I heated the bottom and pried the battery up and found the tap tucked underneath the battery. It would have helped for me to look at the new adhesive strips first as well so I could know what I was looking for.

    tina johnson -

    I applied heat as instructed. One strip pulled free; One strip broke :-( Fortunately, getting one strip out is sufficient. You can then gently get the battery out even with one strip in place.

    Don Libes - Antwort

    Instead of using the iOpener, I opted for my “patented” “Rice in a sock” and heated the sock for 1 minute, which worked perfectly. I laid the heated sock flat and used it as a mini work bench while removing the adhesive strip! My wife uses this for when she has head aches, which caused “me to not have a headache”, when peeling back the adhesive strips!

    iScott - Antwort

    Great idea!!!!!!!

    gibitzga -

  23. Benutze eine Pinzette, um den Klebestreifen des Akkus vom Smartphone zu entfernen. Schneide den schwarzen Klebestreifen zwischen den zwei weißen Klebestreifen durch und trenne sie dabei. Schneide den schwarzen Klebestreifen zwischen den zwei weißen Klebestreifen durch und trenne sie dabei.
    • Benutze eine Pinzette, um den Klebestreifen des Akkus vom Smartphone zu entfernen.

    • Schneide den schwarzen Klebestreifen zwischen den zwei weißen Klebestreifen durch und trenne sie dabei.

    Got a face towel, wrapped in cling-film and microwaved until hot. Stood phone on it and adhesive comes out! Fantastic. Did rip the end of old battery off in process.

    Phil Rydin - Antwort

    When stretched, the adhesive strips I removed where quite long, probably 7-8 inches (stretched). Saying “many times its original length” leaves it too vague. You have to pull with constant, not abrupt, tension. Also, Pay attention to advice not to get the strips twisted, but to keep them flat…and not to pull at an angle where they can rub against and get caught on other board components.

    john lawn - Antwort

  24. Versuche den Streifen während dieser Prozedur, so flach und faltenlos wie möglich zu halten; Gefaltete Streifen können zusammenkleben und dabei beschädigt werden. Ziehe den ersten Streifen weg vom Akku, Richtung Unterkante des iPhones. Ziehe gleichmäßig am Streifen, um ihn möglichst sauber zwischen dem Akku und dem Rückgehäuse herauszuziehen. Am besten funktioniert dies in einem 60 Grad Winkel oder weniger.
    • Versuche den Streifen während dieser Prozedur, so flach und faltenlos wie möglich zu halten; Gefaltete Streifen können zusammenkleben und dabei beschädigt werden.

    • Ziehe den ersten Streifen weg vom Akku, Richtung Unterkante des iPhones.

    • Ziehe gleichmäßig am Streifen, um ihn möglichst sauber zwischen dem Akku und dem Rückgehäuse herauszuziehen. Am besten funktioniert dies in einem 60 Grad Winkel oder weniger.

    • Führe den Kleber um die Seite des Akkus herum und ziehe ihn von der Seite raus. Achte darauf, dabei keine internen Komponenten zu beschädigen!

    • Der Streifen dehnt sich zu einem vielfachen seiner ursprünglichen Länge. Ziehe einfach immer weiter und greif dabei mehrfach erneut möglichst nah am Akku, bis der ganze Streifen entfernt ist.

    • Nachdem du genug Platz hast, um den weißen Batterie-Klebestreifen zu halten, beginne damit, diesen vorsichtig abzuziehen, denn manchmal kann er sich von der hinteren Zuglasche selbst trennen und stattdessen brechen.

    Watch how it is done in the video! I broke mine by continually "pulling straight up" and didn't realize you are suppose to follow the edge of the battery.

    nickbits - Antwort

    +1. This guide should clarify the "pull around the corner" part. Preferably with pictures.

    Seppe Stas -

    Another vote for this! Watch the video to see how you pull the adhesive around the corners and sides of the battery!

    Greg Matthew Crossley -

    I had watched the video and I tried to work the strip around the sides, but couldn't get it to go without worrying it would tear on something. I just pulled up at an angle, slowly and steadily, and they both came out fine, like the instructions say.

    Rosemary McNaughton -

    The tape tabs broke almost immediately upon pulling up just a little bit (less than in the video). My phone is over 2 years old, and maybe the plastic weakens over time. I used a hair dryer on the back of the phone to soften the adhesive and the green prying tool in the iFixit repair kit to pry up the edge of the battery along the side wall of the back case. It bent the battery, but it worked to (slowly) pry the battery out without damaging the phone.

    Bruce - Antwort

    Same here - my phone is over 2 years old and both adhesive strips broke when I tried to pull them out. This step looks so easy in the video, but it became the most difficult part of this repair. I ended up slowly working strips of plastic under the battery to release it. Someone mentions using a credit card, but I have no idea where you would insert that (without bending/destroying your card).

    Anyway, I worked strips of plastic under the battery and used the pry tool and spudger to lift the battery as I did this. The battery bends/deforms while you do this. I was worried that the battery would internally short and heat up, but it didn’t…..   just don’t go crazy bending it, and be careful where you pry (so you don’t damage the electronics/switches).

    Someone also mentioned using a warm face towel - looking back I wonder if this would have helped, since you could rest the phone on the warm towel while you do this (and keep that adhesive warm the entire time). I

    spyder13b -

    I didn't have any sticky tape to hold the new battery in place, so I only removed the outside adhesive tab and left the inner one. This way I would 'lever' the battery out and the innermost tape-strip stayed in place, which was helpful to see the new battery in place. carefull though, you have to lever the battery out very slowly, very very slowly ... but it does work.

    Niels - Antwort

    yeah this wrong. the video has it right. just toasted both of my strips, thanks!

    mdelvecchio99 - Antwort

    there is no way these strips can be stretched (3y o phone) snapped immediately, plus 1st tore on non existent cover imediately

    Gabe - Antwort

    I put on the radiator then used dental floss to start and then two iFixit cards together to pry from home button and outside edges. Didn't notice but I bent the little home button connector guard (not the cover - I didn't have one) but it seemed to make no difference, just bent it back.

    Gabe - Antwort

    I also broke the sticky strips almost immediately so had to prise battery out. it bent a little but came out leaving the strips behind. this has the advantage of having the strips remaining to fix the new battery.

    adrt - Antwort

    Same problem with strips breaking on a 2 yo phone. Might be a good idea to apply the heat BEFORE trying to pull on the ends.

    donshaw1795 - Antwort

    Mine also broke immediately. Someone else suggested that they be heated before attempting to pull out. That seems like good advice; I think the adhesive hardens with age.

    yscuba - Antwort

    They broke dec 2017

    Lars Åkeson - Antwort

    I have done an iPhone 5s and iPhone 6 battery. I can tell you that the adhesive strips sometimes break but when they are going to come out it is best done just by pulling straight out from the bottom. It is better to keep the adhesive strip straight so it does not crimp and the adhesive pulls off equally along the strip. I would not try the pulling from the sides as shown in the video. 3 out of 4 of the strips came out very nicely that way. Also keep re-grabbing the adhesive as close to the battery as you can get it. And go slow. The whole repair is a ton easier if you can pull the strips out without them tearing.

    SC - Antwort

    I saw it mentioned somewhere, but be very careful of wedging the credit card at the top side of the battery. There is a flat cable for the volume buttons that I almost scraped off and almost damaged. I would have liked to see a picture of what it looked like without the battery to see that.

    SC - Antwort

    Completely wrong.

    william - Antwort

    Perfect - 1st timer here. I got a small face towel, moistened it, wrapped it in cling film, microwaved it until very hot, and rested the phone on it. After about 3 minuted both strips came out very nicely.

    Phil Rydin - Antwort

    My tabs broke too. Like others said, these steps are misleading. You do not pull back as shown. I had to bend the old battery out which sucks.

    Michael - Antwort

    I had to bend the old battery out which sucks.

    MEH! It was OK. I pried it out. It got bent up. I’m not using it again. No biggie.

    xtian -

    I pulled straight out for both and both broke off right away. I applied heat by way of an athletic hot/cold pack heated in the microwave, and then pried and chiseled the battery out from the case side with an old credit card. I watched the video after I was done - of course. Heating beforehand and pulling the strips around the sides is most likely the best way to go.

    Tad Dadisman - Antwort

    Changing 2 batteries back to back, the tabs broke on me the first time. the second time I:

    - did not separate the tabs in the previous step

    - laid them on the spudger with the spudger across the body of the phone

    -rotated the spudger like a spool, keeping the adhesive feeding more or less straight up.

    it worked pretty well. one side came completely off and battery removal was easy.

    Erik - Antwort

    this was the hardest part for me. like others, strips broke immediately. i recommend buying a second set of adhesive strips with your kit as i had issues with those as well.

    Chris Miller - Antwort

    For that it strips need? When I put a new battery inside, do I need the same strips?

    girloffeather - Antwort

    My strips broke (of course). I ended up heating a wet washcloth in the microwave and putting it in a sealed sandwich bag. I put the bag on the table and the phone on the bag. I had to pry the bottom end of the old battery to get to the broken strips. It bent some but that allowed me to stick the tweezers underneath to grab hold of a strip to pull. It came out some and broke again so I pried a little more on the battery to get to the strips with the tweezers. Eventually I got all of the strips and was able to remove the battery.

    Gary Grinstead - Antwort

    I had the same problem where I ended up stretching it too much. What I did to counter this was just pry the battery open and rip some of the adhesive off then proceeded to pull the thing right off when there wasn’t too much left of the adhesive.

    Vlanpai - Antwort

    First, I used a wheat bag for my heat source to soften the adhesive (cloth bag filled with wheat grains, which you heat in a microwave, usually to apply to an arthritic joint for pain relief). Retains the heat for a good time and provides a base on which to work (a bit like using a hot water bottle, but without the water and a lot more stable !)

    Second, my adhesive strips broke before I got anywhere close to the battery corner ! So I used dental floss. Starting at one corner of the battery, using a sawing motion to reach the other (nearest) corner, then came down the length of the battery. The floss broke about a dozen times, but after about 15-20 minutes it had cut the battery clean away from the adhesive.

    Wayne - Antwort

    I’ve done work on my laptop and one of my favorite tools is a wooden tongue depressor. They’re strong. You can shape them. They’re obviously non-conductive. And, I don’t jack up my Credit Card in the process. HAHA.

    My phone is 2-3 years old. I used a hot water bottle (water heated to 140F) and let the phone heat up for approx ~60s. The strips didn’t even get around the corner before they broke. Maybe I should have heated the water to 200F? Maybe I should have heated the phone for 2 minutes?

    Scrapping up the goo later, it was really stuck down. I continued to use the hot water bottle, and at no point did it seem to become ‘less sticky’. Eventually I was able to scrape up enough to get a grip. The rest pulled up just like the pictures. Maybe the goo was just not pliable after years of heating and cooling?

    xtian - Antwort

    I watched the video and tried pulling from the side, no dice. Both strips broke and were irretrievable. After trying dental floss and heat, I pulled the small e string off my electric guitar and wound each end around a pencil. This was so the string didn’t dig into my hand while I used it to slowly “saw” the adhesive off from underneath. Alternately heating and sawing from one end and then the other (make sure the string doesn’t snag on anything while doing this, and also make sure the string doesn’t twist into a loop), I was able to cut through the adhesive and remove the old battery. It was quite a chore, but this was the only thing that worked for me. The adhesive strips were laughing at my puny attempts with plastic cards.

    Patrick Pedersen - Antwort

  25. Wiederhole die Prozedur beim zweiten Klebestreifen. Wenn du beide Streifen vollständig entfernen konntest überspringe die beiden nächsten Schritte.
    • Wiederhole die Prozedur beim zweiten Klebestreifen.

    • Wenn du beide Streifen vollständig entfernen konntest überspringe die beiden nächsten Schritte.

    • Sollte einer der Streifen vorher reißen und nicht entfernt werden können, springe zu den nächsten beiden Schritten.

    You better heat this all up before you try to remove the glue strips. Mine broke off right away and then (after heating) you have to pry up the whole battery (mine was discharged completely so less risk) which tends to be glued so tightly that it all bents (not very safe for a Lithium Ion battery!).

    Pieter Kerstens - Antwort

    I totally agree. First strip did not come off. Heated the phone up, second one worked as if I did it every day..

    + You should hear a rattling sound (the strip moving towards the bottom of the battery) while pulling. If you do not hear a sound while pulling it will probably break !

    meertdavid - Antwort

    definitely agree with the sounds I did the same procedure but heated both luck was not on my side for the first strip I luckily was able to grab the quickly shrinking adhesive as it ducked under the battery but foolishly pulled harder without adding more heat and broke it off again but successfully pried that sucker out with the help of a blow dryer if i ever do this again that’s my heating tool of choice

    Christopher Healy -

  26. Falls einer der Klebestreifen reißt und die Akku im hinteren Gehäuse stecken bleibt,  verwende einen iOpener oder erhitze das hintere Gehäuse direkt hinter dem Akku mit einem Fön.
    • Falls einer der Klebestreifen reißt und die Akku im hinteren Gehäuse stecken bleibt, verwende einen iOpener oder erhitze das hintere Gehäuse direkt hinter dem Akku mit einem Fön.

    • Du kannst auch mit einer Spritze etwas hochkonzentrierten Isopropylalkohol (mehr als 90%ig) unter die Kanten des Akkus tröpfeln.

    • Nach ein paar Minuten ist der Kleber durch den Alkohol so weich geworden, dass du den Akku leichter entnehmen kannst.

    If you end up having to pry the battery out, put some paper between the bezel and the battery. Mine now has a little gouge that's visible just under the volume buttons.

    lessawinston - Antwort

    The plastic strips quickly broke off. I used a neck warmer that you heat in the microwave for 90 seconds to supply warmth to the back of the iPhone to soften the adhesive (just lay the back of the phone down on the neck warmer). This allowed me to slip an old credit card slowly under the battery by wiggling it a bit from side to side, then gently lifting on the card. I peeled the adhesive residue very slowly off the case back with the flat end of the spudger, while still resting the back of the phone on the neck warmer to keep it soft.

    Magnus Dalen - Antwort

    The strips quickly broke for me as well. I pryed the battery up using the flat end of the apple tool spudger, starting from the top of the phone, and slowly and carefully working my way to the other end. About halfway, enough of the battery was loose to allow me to use my hands to pry it the rest of the way off. Afterwards, I had to scrape the strips off until there was enough to pull them. When pulling them, keep them as close to the rear case of the iPhone as possible, and they come clean off.

    Jonathan Goldsmith - Antwort

    And btw, the "iOpener" is pretty much the exact same thing as a neck warmer/heat pad. The same thing can also be accomplished by placing rice inside an old sock(make sure to tie the open end), and then heating that in the microwave for 1-2 minutes. This works as a neck warmer/heating pad, and so would work well for this as well.

    Jonathan Goldsmith - Antwort

    Exactly. I put some rice in a bowl, microwaved for a minute, slipped the hot rice into a ziplock bag, wrapped with a thin kitchen towel and put my phone on that. Don’t eat the rice afterwards.

    Chris Wiley -

    Just put the entire phone in the microwave. Works like a charm! (kidding...)

    Scott Stathis - Antwort

    I got the adhesive loosen with multiple applications of heat with the hair dryer. I should have read the suggestions on use of the neck heating pad. The pad will keep the adhesive warm as you pry or use dental floss to remove the battery. Draining the old battery to 10% before the replacement is suggested.

    Arthur Kung - Antwort

    I set it on top of my macbook since it overheats while charging…. oh the irony!

    Kelsey Margulieux - Antwort

    I tried the heat up and pry method but quickly gave up. Instead I found that using a piece of strong thread (or dental floss) and alternately sawing one way then the other worked incredibly well and was really painless. It took about a minute to get the battery free so I’d strongly recommend trying this approach before you try prying the battery.

    Here’s what I did:

    1) I used tweezers and fed the thread under the bottom inner corner (where the battery cable is),

    2) I slowly worked the thread along the bottom edge of the battery using the tweezers until it was under the far corner. I kept a little tension on the side that was already in place so it wouldn’t pull out.

    3) I made sure I had plenty of slack on each side and then I pulled it in tight.

    4) I took hold of the thread on each side in turn, wrapped it round a finger (with a piece of cloth to avoid cutting myself. Then I pulled it across and down the sides of the battery. It took about 3 pulls on each side to cut the glue completely.

    Toby Moncaster - Antwort

    I used a cast iron pan heated in the oven to 170 F. Turned it upside down and placed the back of the iPhone on it, waited a minute and started pulling the adhesive. It all came out in one long pull using the method described in the instructions of maintaining a constant pull and continually pulling from close to the battery.

    Rosa Santana - Antwort

  27. Drehe das iPhone um und führe ein Kunststoffkärtchen zwischen das hintere Gehäuse und der am Gehäuse anliegenden Seite des Akkus.
    • Drehe das iPhone um und führe ein Kunststoffkärtchen zwischen das hintere Gehäuse und der am Gehäuse anliegenden Seite des Akkus.

    • Heble nicht aus der Richtung des Logic Boards, das kann das Gerät beschädigen.

    • Heble nicht oben links in der Nähe der Lautstärkeregler, sonst kannst du das Flexkabel der Lautstärkeregler beschädigen.

    • Halte die Karte so flach wie möglich, um zu vermeiden, dass der Akku sich biegt. Dies könnte den Akku beschädigen und den Austritt von gefährlichen Chemikalien verursachen oder sich entzünden. Niemals mit spitzen Gegenständen am Akku hebeln.

    • Drücke das Kärtchen weiter in die Lücke, um den Kleber hinter dem Akku aufzubrechen.

    • Alternativ kann ein Stück Zahnseide hilfreich sein, um den Akku zu entfernen. Eine haltbarere Alternative zu Zahnseide ist eine abgewickelte Gitarrensaite, wie die 0,009 Zoll E-Saite von einem 12er Saitenset.

    • Fädle die Zahnseide oder Gitarrensaite um die oberen Ecken des Akkus, verknüpfe die Enden miteinander, wickle sie um ein Stück Stoff und ziehe gleichmäßig.

    I'm a little astounded no one has mentioned the importance of not using sharp tools at this juncture. With the adhesive failing to come off nicely, many will be tempted to get out the metal tweezers. DON'T. If the battery gets punctured, it WILL catch fire and destroy your entire phone. Use dental floss or credit card as suggested.

    Angela - Antwort

    Angela is right. The battery will catch fire if you physically damage it. That's exactly what I did and I left a trail of smoke in my building's hallways as I ran outside with it. Amazingly once everything had cooled off, I was able to complete the job, because the battery catching fire took care of the %#*@ adhesive.

    Brian Hill - Antwort

    Haha! Good work around!! :)

    Jack -

    If you are pulling an iPhone apart, Use an ice cube container for the screws. Draw yourself a plan if you must but I have done so many, I know what bits go in which hole.

    Jack -

    Pro tip: Use 2 cards together - slip one over the other. Start the process with dental floss…

    Gabe - Antwort

    The adhesive strips broke almost immediately. Tried the dental floss trick a few times, credit cards, guitar pick, more floss, hair dryer, etc ... Bent & smashed the old battery to the point I was really worried it might explode. The only thing that really seemed to help was heating up the back of the phone first w/a hair dryer, then jamming plastic cards in from the corners, top & bottom (being careful not to bend or smash other things) until I was able to pry it loose.

    seijihuzz01 - Antwort

    Same here. That was intense.

    gibitzga -

    Using the microwaved towel wrapped in film and microwaved, then placing the phone on it to heat up nicely, the strips came completely out and the battery popped off rendering this step unnecessary!

    Phil Rydin - Antwort

    Phil — what do you mean by “wrapped in film”.. do you mean plastic-wrap? I’d love if you could elaborate :)

    Red-Rob -

    Hey Phil.. I’d love if you can elaborate on that. By “wrapped in film” do you mean plastic-wrap?

    Red-Rob -

    I did something similar. Start by looping dental floss under the bottom of the battery. Then put a wet (but not dripping) washcloth in a ceramic microwave safe bowl and heated it for about three minutes. Covered the cloth with plastic food wrap and set the phone on it. Once phone’s hot, I worked the floss towards the top of the phone. Repeated many times until it stalled halfway up the battery. Then I did the same process starting at the top of the battery. After a lot of time the floss came all the way top to bottom. Be patient. Keep at it. It’ll work. And take care never to bend or brake battery.

    Edward Merry -

    We had only the flat dental tape. That breaks easily, but pearlescent embroidery thread did the trick. Scariest part of the whole process so far.

    Sarah Sorlien - Antwort

    I agree I had been patient the whole time and still broke an adhesive strip but I successfully used the spudger to complete the job along with a blow dryer but definitely the scariest part of the whole job…not for the faint of heart haha also bent the !#^& out of the battery someone correct me if i’m wrong but I think with enough patience the battery cable is a fine thing to pull on with heat I tried it without heat and it can handle a good deal of force before giving way I don’t know enough about the battery to know if it could cause a fire from ripping it off just thankful it didn’t catch fire on me

    Christopher Healy -

    This was the hardest part. I used a combination of a hair dryer and 3 credit cards (use ones you don’t care about as they will bend). After prying about 50%, I used my fingers for the rest. In the end my old battery was bent curved from the prying.

    morettisf - Antwort

    I laid my phone on a heating pad for this step, which I think made it easier (but it was still hard!). My 2nd adhesive strip broke almost immediately, but the dental floss worked great!

    Carrie Lundy - Antwort

    Thanks for advice! I used sewing thread to separate the battery from the rear case. it wasn't hard. I think one shouldn’t risk heating it or bending it, when there are more safer ways.

    Илья Хмелёв - Antwort

    This step was quite a bugger for me too… I finally went in with the spudger from the very top of the phone / battery, which isn’t quite what they recommend. The battery definitely got bent doing it that route, but it didn’t catch fire, and everything appears to be working just fine after re-assembly!

    Kevin Brink - Antwort

    I heated the back of the phone on a heating pad set on high, but both adhesive strips still broke almost immediately. Tried a credit card but that got nowhere, so then I remembered seeing a video in which someone used monofilament fishing line. Worked perfectly. Just pulled it behind the battery, pulling on one side then the other until I worked it nearly all the way down, then the battery just lifted out. Wrap it around a couple of things to use as handles when you pull and it’s less painful.

    Gregory White - Antwort

    Wow… and no mention about the SILENT FLEX??? I folowed all this, glues the batt (instead of testing it first with an open screen) and after all the effort no buttons work (Power, Volume up/dn, and the Silent key - the Home button works)

    Please include some kind of warning about this

    kolorec - Antwort

    Sorry you had trouble. There’s a giant warning in red font with a link to a photo of the volume/silent flex cable—it’s the third bullet in the step. A lot can go wrong if you don’t read thoroughly.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Jeff - I don’t know about kolorec, but I did read thoroughly, and stayed well away from the volume controls during the long and worrying battery extraction. However, I managed to damage the cable at the other side - where it comes up to plug into the logic board, near the display (etc) sockets. I suspect the dental floss was the culprit, but it might have been the chisel (joke!). So I have a working phone but have to adjust volume and power off in software.

    Ian Harris - Antwort

    Hey Ian, sorry to hear that. Let us know if you think the instructions need to be revised; we’re always trying to strike a balance between including adequate warnings and keeping it concise/readable. That cable can be replaced if desired, although it’s a more involved repair (both battery and logic board have to be removed first). If you haven’t yet, double-check and make sure it’s seated properly before you go further. Thanks for your feedback! Better luck on your next repair hopefully.

    Jeff Suovanen -

  28. Ziehe den Akku aus dem hinteren Gehäuse heraus. Sollte dein Ersatzakku in einer Plastikhülle geliefert werden, dann entferne zuerst die Plastikhülle vom Akku,  indem du die Hülle vom Flachbandkabel abziehst. Wenn du deinen neuen Akku installierst folge dieser Anleitung, um die Klebestreifen korrekt anzubringen.
    • Ziehe den Akku aus dem hinteren Gehäuse heraus.

    • Sollte dein Ersatzakku in einer Plastikhülle geliefert werden, dann entferne zuerst die Plastikhülle vom Akku, indem du die Hülle vom Flachbandkabel abziehst.

    • Wenn du deinen neuen Akku installierst folge dieser Anleitung, um die Klebestreifen korrekt anzubringen.

    • Führe nach dem Austausch einen Hard Reset durch. Dieser hilft diverse Probleme zu vermeiden und eventuell trotzdem nötige Fehlersuche zu vereinfachen.

    A few things for reassembly:

    To apply the adhesive strips, peel one side of the backing off, then without touching the strips put the whole thing adhesive side down where the old strips were, then pull off the remaining backing. If you pull the strips out first, they want to tangle up and become a blob. Trust me, I know. Sadface.

    To reapply the tiny bracket that holds the home button's cable in place, put the side with the one tab in first, oriented towards the bottom of the phone, then press the top with the two cut outs into place. There's two tabs in the phone body that should line up with the two cut outs.

    When closing it up, you have to slide the top of the screen flush into place before pressing the rest of the phone shut. If you don't, the top won't snap shut.

    lessawinston - Antwort

    The easiest way I have found to install the home button clip is to hold it with needle nose tweezers and slide it in from left to right, holding it at about 45 degrees. once the back cutouts are aligned, push down on the font to clip it in to place. Hope this helps. (I've done hundreds and struggled until I found this trick). ;)

    Jack -

    I agree with the last point about the need to get the top of the screen to seat flush before pressing in the rest of the screen. There are three plastic tabs on the top of the screen which need to fit into three holes in the metal case. My plastic tabs were bent up (upon opening?) and I had to bend them down (using the blue ifixit opening tool) to get them to fit into their holes so I could seat the top of the screen.

    Erik Osborn -

    Well, a couple comments:

    1. Once I completed the battery replacement and put the iPhone back together, everything is working EXCEPT incoming call ring, in and out going mail & text message sounds. However, audio streaming works just fine!

    > could this be the 4 screws in the wrong place? (I missed the screw detail the first time!);

    > could this be a not completely seated connectors?

    2. The iFixit instructions were incredible....however, one must read and reread the instructions to avoid "oops" situations.

    pmilkes - Antwort

    pmilkes, the same with me. Everything ok except the loudspeaker. I just did the same thing wrong as you did. (I did not notice the 1,2mm 1,3mm and 1,7mm screws.

    A good solution is appreciated.


    By the way, my phone (iphone 5s) went complete in drinking water for three hours while I was asleep. And after 2 months I decided to change the battery. So now everything is working except the loudspeaker. (I already ordered for a replacement of that also)

    thanks I fixit.

    alperinugur - Antwort

    You may need to use tweezers to carefully bend the metal bracket to make it fit tightly into the slots over the home button connector

    fredhdx - Antwort

    Am I supposed to reapply the old battery's adhesive strips to the new battery?

    Dan Sota - Antwort

    Don't bother. It really doesn't matter.

    Jack -

    No. Use new strips only.

    Magnus Dalen -

    Ensure you position the new battery nearer to the side of the case to allow room for the connector wire to fold down in the gap on the right side.

    Magnus Dalen - Antwort


    habe gerade meinen Akku getauscht, bei einem iphone 5s.

    Ich habe die Schritte 17 - 22 in Zusammenhang mit dem einfachen Wunsch den Akku zu tauschen nicht für notwendig gehalten, vielleicht habe ich da ja auch etwas falsch verstanden... Ohne diese Schritte ging das ganze jedenfalls sehr fix von der Hand, Telefon läuft, Touch ID und Tonsignale, alles funktioniert.

    Hat vielleicht gerade mal 20 min gedauert+++

    Sehr schöne Anleitung und sehr gutes Werkzeug / Akku Set von ifixit!!! habe ich online bestellt, da passt dann wenigstens alles zusammen.

    Großes Lob, DANKE

    Dr B Schwarze

    google - Antwort

    I realize my SE is pretty “old” at this point in time, so I’m guessing the replacement kit is also old stock. My replacement adhesive strips that came with the battery would not separate from the blue backing at all, so I ended up installing the battery without any strips. Hopefully, this won’t result in any problems; it seems like the battery fits inside snugly, so I don’t anticipate it moving around. This replacement was done simultaneously with the lightning connector assembly replacement. I figured I’d do it all at once.

    Douglas Waski - Antwort

    @dwaski The kits aren’t old, but we’ve seen a few complaints about defective strips that don’t separate from the liner film properly. Sorry for the trouble! If you get in touch with our support team, they can hook you up with some replacement strips. The battery has no internal protection from jolts/movement—so if it’s not properly secured, it can lead to problems. Probably fine to leave it as-is for a while as long as you’re not taking it jogging or anything like that, but I’d recommend sticking it down at some point. Congrats on a successful repair!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Well, I think my phone is now broken. It will power up and all the buttons seem to work, no distortions in the LCD display, but no matter what I try the touch screen does not respond. I have tried reseating the cable multiple times. I’ve tried cleaning it. Nothing. I think a larger warning to not touch those cables unless *absolutely* necessary. Also, the iFixit kit comes with a simple suction cup instead of the clamp shown early in the instructions. Unless I was born with at least three arms there is no way to “gently” pry up the LCD display with a single suction cup (because there are ridges on the side that hold it *firmly* in place). I think my TouchID cover went missing as well. Over all, I think it will turn out to be a $150 mistake to have tried this. By the way, this is not the first time that I’ve taken a cell phone apart. Have taken apart two other cells phones to replace batteries before with no problems. taking the iPhone apart is *not* as easy as this guide would make it out to be.

    Eric Karlson - Antwort

    I did not remove the plastic sleeve which the replacement battery came in. Is this OK?

    Bruce Englar - Antwort

    Hi Bruce! I would strongly recommend opening the phone and removing the sleeve. Batteries naturally expand and contract a bit as they charge and discharge, and the plastic sleeve may prevent that from safely happening. The sleeve may also introduce wear/pressure points for other components such as cables.

    Sam Goldheart -

    Welp…iBrokeit. my husband’s iPhone 5s kinda worked before (battery level went all crazy and then the phone screen started freezing up) but now it won’t turn on at all. I reopened it to see what I did wrong but couldn’t find anything. Oh well, at least I tried.

    Margaret Suzanne Glover - Antwort

    worked like a charme for me. The only thing I would improve next time is placing the battery a little bit more to the top (speaker and camrea side of things) as I couldn’t fold in the glue stripes black rubber part in the end, because the battery was too close to the home button connector side.

    Peter Vogt - Antwort

    I finished the battery reinstall successfully, but it took me quite a while. Final thoughts:

    1. try heating underside of phone with hair dryer before attempting to pull adhesive strips from under battery. Might help, though I didn’t and ended up using guitar string under battery.

    2. buy a really good set of small philips screwdrivers. The set that came with the kit removed the tiny screws fine, but reinstalling the screws was impossible for me without a pro tiny philips.

    Patrick Pedersen - Antwort


Vergleiche dein Ersatzteil mit dem Originalteil. Möglicherweise musst du fehlende Teile übertragen oder Schutzfolien vom Neuteil abziehen, bevor du es einbauen kannst.

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammen zu setzen, befolge die Anleitung in umgekehrter Reihenfolge..

Entsorge deinen Elektromüll fachgerecht.

Die Reparatur verlief nicht wie geplant? Schau in unser Antwortenforum zur Fehlerbehebung.

1834 weitere Nutzer haben diese Anleitung absolviert.

Besonderer Dank geht an diese Übersetzer:


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If the adhesive breaks without releasing, and you need to use a spudger or similiar to remove the battery, be VERY careful not to damage the Upper Component Cable.


Dave - Antwort

This should've been included in the repair guide, as the adhesive tabs seemed designed to break. My phone is now in worse shape than it was and I'm facing what seems to be an extremely difficult repair, which I will probably not undertake.

winternick -

A couple of additional pointers might be helpful...

1: I did not get all of the adhesive out from under the battery. As a result, I bent the heck out of the battery & ordered a new one, not trusting a bent one. A mention of whether it would be safe would be nice.

2: I found it impossible to get the clip from step 7 back on. I left it off. If there's a trick to this, it would be nice to have that extra instruction with the reassembly instructions, rather than "reverse order."

3: While this is always a good idea, in the process of trying to get something done, it's easy to forget that you need to remember which screws go back where, especially the 3 different-sized screws from step 10. What an evil thing Apple did there! I laid the bracket upside-down on a piece of tape, and oriented the screws around it so I'd know where they go back upon reassembly a week later. A suggestion of doing something like this might be helpful.

4: I love my iFixit toolkits! But including a pair of tweezers in it would be helpful.

datamaestro - Antwort

2. I found this piece "snapped" into place reasonably easily, but I was careful to get the orientation correct & make sure the edge against the battery pull was "in under" (for lack of a better term) and not trying to squash the battery pull down.

Hope this helps.

Dave -

1. With regards to the bent battery, you were right to replace it. LiOn Batteries are very dangerous when the cells inside are compromised. Even though the good ones have circuit breakers built in to prevent fire, they can fail. A LiOn battery - even a small one in an iPhone - can go "high order" and cause a fire that is next to impossible to extinguish. A brief search on YouTube for Lithium Ion Battery fires will quickly convince even the skeptical.

2. The way I keep track of screws... Get a complete set of all colors of Sharpie pens. When disassembling, I touch the screw head with the same color pen as the circle in the iFixit Guide. Then when reassembling I know where the green, orange, red, & blue screws go!

Pete H -

Pete H: simpler solution to the screw problem: get a fridge magnet rectangular, place the screws in the same orientation as the phone. problem solved :)

Christina -

When opening the front of the phone, there are two pieces of the front assembly the go to the edge - the glass, and a thin piece of plastic that sits behind the glass (and provides an edge). The glass is flexible enough to bend, leaving the plastic behind in some places. If you pry between the glass and the plastic, you will end up breaking the plastic. In my case I was replacing a cracked screen in addition to changing the battery, so this didn't really matter much since the plastic part that broke was part of the new screen assembly. But if you're just changing the battery, make sure you're prying up on the plastic as well as the screen.

I was not successful at getting the adhesive tabs to release the battery so had to pry it up with a spudger. If you do this, be aware there are device cables glued to the rear of the case near the top 2mm or so of the battery.

Finally the article notes potentially using tape to hold the battery - foam tape is too thick for this. I used no tape at all without issue.

storminmike - Antwort

Are new glue strips really necessary? If they help with heat sinking a little or snugness, sure. But at the very least, adhering only the enclosure side of strip and not the battery would make it easier the next time with the same result. Anyone installed without? Thanks for the heads up.

Russell - Antwort

The strips came off the battery and were still very sticky in the case. I just set the new battery on it. it was well stuck!

mdrace -

Thanks for the great guide. Apple definitely made this one more challenging than the 4 or 3!

I was quite surprised though to reach the end and find no help on actually installing the battery. It sure would be nice if you added a section at the end about installing the tape. And reminding people to remove the clear plastic wrapping from around the new battery if such exists. I know it did on my battery from iFixit. Again thanks for the great guide!

Joe - Antwort

I was able to replace the battery and everything seems to be working fine but I have an issue with my home button. I've tried to reconnect the ribbon cable but hasn't helped me. The touch ID is working but pressing the home button doesn't do anything, also touching the home butting activates the Touch ID but also makes he phone think that I have the home button constantly pressed as it acticates Siri all the time. Any ideas on how to resolve this? I went to see the home button assembly guide to find tips but didn't see any. Seems like things aren't fully broken else the touch ID or the phone thinking I'm pressing the home button when I'm jut touching it also wouldn't work. Thanks.

axmxaxr - Antwort

The PRO Tech kit was invaluable here. Especially the tweezers.

RayBob - Antwort

I've been fixing iPhones for a couple of months for some friends and I whole heartedly agree the pro kit is invaluable. Best investment I've made.

Cam R -

Use tape to limit the amount the displayed can be opened. A inch of play should be sufficient. Use packing tape to keep the displayed open when discontenting and reconnecting the display connectors.

goldenimaging - Antwort

That's an excellent tip. You should edit the guide.

idmadj -

The clip at step 8 is very difficult to reinstall, behind the connector you can see two little metal horns, the clip has two little slots, so i assume you should put the clip a little more inside , the problem is that the connector is soft and pressing on it does not offer much feedback, so you can't tell if it's ok or not, i hope i got it, but in the future if the phone makes a new rattle sound i'll know where to look :-)

My 5S was two years old and the adhesive strips both broke, i bent the old battery to take it off, however it really got loose when i heated it up on my heat gun, at 110C from the back of the battery.

I have done that while holding the phone in hand from the sides, so i can tell how hot it was, when i felt it was very uncomfortable to hold it was done, the battery went away quite easy, also the strip near the side remained intact, since in the battery that i bought there was no adhesive strips (it's optional?) i left that one inside and it worked quite well for the new battery.

Fabrizio Saglio - Antwort

That battery tape is a pain to remove. Mine broke before I could pry it off. Thankfully a hair drier and running fishing line between the battery and the case did the trick. The recommendation of dental floss is a joke as the dental floss breaks.

colinfahrion - Antwort

Great guides and great tools. Just be more patient on removing battery sticky part.

KUAN YEW - Antwort

Great guide, I had this done in 30mins using the ifixit battery replacement kit. I've a background repairing laptops and I can see this would be tricky for someone with no experience. The existing adhesive teared away on me right away. I used the supplied green spudger and got it under the battery and very gently applied upward pressure using my thumb as a fulcrum point. After about 50 seconds the battery lifted out cleanly. The rest went to plan. Great little repair kit too, well worth the extra money to have the right tools. Thank you ifixit!

chrismaverley - Antwort

Overall this was surprisingly easy.

The only time I ran into trouble was when I was removing the adhesive. I snapped one side off but I just got a hair dryer and heated the back of the phone, used a credit card to work on the adhesive and eventually it came off. It's also a little tricky to re-attach the screen connector when reassembling. The connector is very fragile and easy to break I'm sure.

This only took me around 20 minutes and cost way less than taking it to apple.

Thanks ifixit for saving me some cash and making this easy. I'll be back.

colinsinclair12 - Antwort

I disassembled my 5S. While removing the battery I ripped the outer cover and bent the battery. Is it still useable or must it be replaced?

Thanks in advance for any help you might offer.

bernieholland - Antwort

Try it. If it works, you are lucky. If the phone won't start up, get a new battery.

Jack -

Replace it. Never re-install a damaged battery; it's not worth the risk.

Jeff Suovanen -

The step to heat the back cover and soften the adhesive should come before the step where the adhesive strips are removed by pulling. Otherwise, excellent guide.

jfpinkston - Antwort

I used dental floss - had to double it - and that worked the best. However, as I lifted the end nearest the phone top, the very bottom part was still stuck, and that part bent away from the battery body, still attached. A voltmeter showed no charge on the little terminals, so I went ahead and ordered new battery. I found the directions about pulling the tab of the adhesive (after splitting it) later and will try that next time.

texboydmoore - Antwort

Thanks for this Tutorial, works very well! nice work!

friederhaeberle86 - Antwort

Whoa...by far the most stress Apple related repair I've attempted. Sadly I have to say attempted. RIght out of the gate, I felt I was being so very careful, gently applying pressure to lift the glass to expose the touch sensor cable when the glass just released suddenly and the clip flew & the cable detached. *gulp*. I figured all was already lost but might as well proceed as if it went smoothly. Everything else did, especially removing the adhesive. Not an iota of trouble there. I was excruciatingly careful with the screws to make sure they were not mixed up. The reassembly seemed to go smoothly but upon powering it back on I had the white lines and resetting after a couple minutes. I took it back down a couple of more times to get to a clean display that functioned as it should and apart from the resetting every few minutes with a blue screen, all other functionality is intact. It sounds like long screw damage but they were not mixed up at all. Puzzled and bummed. So close...so close. Tightened too much??

chdorr - Antwort

Update: wondering if it's a heat inspired reset. I had the phone off all night and turned it on this morning and it's been on and used almost an hour with no resets yet. Hopeful but expecting it to reset when it heats back up. We shall see...

chdorr -

The same thing happened to me. I should have just had an expert do it. I was careful and got everything back where it was supposed to go. But when I turn it on then after a few minutes a blue screen appears and it resets. I retried connecting everything three times but still no luck. I was careful with the screws. The only thing I can conclude was that the screen connectors were damaged during the repair process.

jason -

There are several possible causes to the blue screen issue besides long screw damage discussed in this thread. Hope it helps.

Jeff Suovanen -

Watching the video and then following the guide made the process really simple. The hardest part was when one of the screws fell on the carpet and I had to use a strong flashlight and magnet to find it.

carlos cabrera - Antwort

In my case this repair failed big time -- I would NOT recommend it to anyone. At least, I wouldn't call the difficulty "moderate" (which definitely was not the case with my 5s). I've replaced other parts before and I am not terribly clumsy , so I felt pretty confident before I started … until I came to the point where I had to remove the adhesive strips. I tried to be careful, I was patient, but they both torn apart. There was nothing I could do. I then needed a lot of patience + force to remove the battery from the strips; a process that ultimately caused the battery to catch fire, at least almost (plenty of acid smoke). In the process, and because of the longer break a had to take (smoke), I mixed up 2 screws -- which resulted, of course, in the "blue screen of death", i.e. a damaged logic board. I brought the phone to a local repair shop, but they only messed it up even more. Result: a phone that used to work fine is now complete garbage. What a frustrating experience.

Niko P - Antwort

Do u guys ship to India?

knehgunlien - Antwort

By far the most nerve-wracking Apple repair I've done. First, be very careful pulling the front panel up with a suction cup. Not sure how to avoid this without the iSclack tool, but my display separated slowly at first and then suddenly popped open to the limit of the home button cable. I didn't know till I finished whether I'd damaged this cable (thankfully I hadn't). But for me the hardest part was getting the old battery out. Both adhesive strips broke even though I was very carefully and slowly pulling them out. Then even after LOTS of hair dryer use, dental floss (kept breaking), and prying with a plastic card it still was barely budging. I could only get it out by using the flat end of the spudger and working it under one end of the battery, then forcing it further along (bending the battery a lot along the way). Fortunately the battery didn't rupture. New battery is now in and everything works!

kevludwig - Antwort

My iphone looses charge quickly, at 30% it will totally shut down due to low charge. This guide save me from upgrading my iphone, I believe that iphone should lasts for 4-5 years before upgrading, upgrading the battery pack will give extra 2 years for iphone in my opinion, I just followed the video here, before you try to remove the adhesive from the battery, use first a hair dryer at the back of the phone, enough heat only till you can feel discomfort, heating it too much might risk for battery explosion. It is evident that the heat applied causes the battery to bent when you successfully removed the battery.

Those screws i used a 4 different color of marker pen, I marked all that hole plus the screws, in case they will be mixed up it will be easy to sort out.

I used a i-Slacker also, i dont want to take chances damaging the home button when prying it up. I-slacker did it perfectly.

Proceed with caution, if you are not confident, watch the video many times, and read all the comments here. It helps a lot.

John Mark Booc - Antwort

This guide was very helpful. Completed successfully!

Second adhesive strip broke but I was able to pry the battery out very carefully with a plastic card.

JT Wieme - Antwort

This is an excellent guide, thank you. My Bluetooth once again works over A2DP after rearranging the screws.

thefunksoulbrutha - Antwort

Hi I tried this but after putting everything back together, my loud speaker and Touch ID don't work. Can anyone tell me why?

BMW Parts - Antwort

I'm having the same problem - touch and speaker don't work. Did you every find an answer? Thanks in advance.

Dan Turner -

Just disconnect the chips at the top of the phone and connect them again. That did it for me.

Nikolay -

when lifting the screen i accidentally pulled it together too hard and disconnected the ribbon cable from the home button, is there any way to re-attach it??

Freya - Antwort

I had an issue where my power button didn't work and the screen looked funny once I got it all put back together. For me the digitizer cable from step 15 was really hard to get back in all the way. I had to take it all apart again but it works fine now. What I did the second time was slightly lift the cable and make sure it did not come up with slight pressure. That let me know it was attached properly. Make sure all the cables are hooked up and not loose at all. Overall it was easier than I thought but there are alot of places things can go wrong. TAKE YOUR TIME!! :)

robertschurman - Antwort

I was running iOS 9.0.2 Jailbroken when I replaced my battery. I'm not sure why, but I assume some security feature prevented Touch ID from being enabled again, I tried reseating many times, checking grounds as mentioned in another comment, hard/soft rebooting, nothing worked. Unfortunately my last resort was to restore in iTunes and upgrade to iOS 9.3.1. Touch ID works fine now as does everything else, but unfortunately I lost my jailbreak for the time being.

So before you start, I recommend backing up your phone BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING and if you have issues after try restoring.

Andrew LaMarche - Antwort

Very unhappy

The repair was difficult, very difficult and time consuming. Mostly because the screws are tiny and are hard to work with, particularly putting back into the phone. The adhesive tape on the battery did not remove like the guide suggested it would, had to pry the battery loose from the phone which was very difficult. After replacing the battery and putting it all back together the phone now gets extremely hot (which is dangerous), has a weak cellular signal, and barely existent wifi signal.

Just take it in to apple for a battery replacement and save yourself the headache. I'm now out for the cost of this kit and will now have to buy a new phone since I voided the warranty by attempting this repair myself.

Frank Pigeons - Antwort

It all worked pretty well except for the damaged home button functionality. Touch ID is still working but the home button is not reacting to any other input.

svenstaub - Antwort

New iFixit battery is draining too fast. Three nights ago I successfully replaced the Lightning connector assembly and the battery in my wife's iPhone 5s. Immediately after reassembling the phone and turning it on I followed the instructions iFixit included with the new battery. The instructions were to drain the new battery to below 10% and then charge it uninterrupted back to 100%. Sitting idle with only the home screen on you can watch the battery drop a percentage point every 2 or 3 minutes. I found this DFU Restore help article http://help.ifixit.com/article/108-dfu-r... but the article only lists "issue with battery" as a reason to perform a DFU Restore.

David Foltz - Antwort

I am wondering, did the DFU correct the battery drain issue for you?

John Matson -

I've just replaced the battery in my 5s but now the phone doesn't appear to be charging, nor is it making the 'buzzing' feel when I plugged in the charger. I'm going to try not to panic too much and make my tea whilst I wait for the faintest signs of life appearing on the screen with it plugged in. Anyone else find this?

I'm pretty sure I've not damaged anything in the replacement although the sticky tape holding the battery in wouldn't pull out easily. I had to use a hairdryer to warm up the back of the phone.

Karina Townsend - Antwort

Great instructions! Unfortunately, on step 21, I accidentally, removed the audio and power button cable connector. Now I cannot seem to get the audio and power button cable connector back on. Kind of a bummer not to be able to power my phone on and off. Any suggestions for reconnecting the audio and power button cable?

J F - Antwort

If you mean this connector, it's just a matter of lining it up carefully and pressing it down so it snaps into place—the same as the other connectors in that series of steps. If you mean that you accidentally broke the connector socket off the logic board, I'm afraid that's a problem for a microsoldering expert.

Jeff Suovanen -

The guide is very helpful but I would suggest coloring coding the various screw with different colored markers so you do not get confused during reassembly. The glue tabs broke after a few seconds of lightly pulling on them. I used a hair dryer to heat up the glue and use a old best buy rewards card to slowly pry the old battery up. I also messed up the new glue when applying to the new battery so had to use double sided scotch tape to hold the battery in place. I have done a few repairs myself on my MacBook Pro and my iPod Classic, but this repair only took a total of 35 minutes. The repair was pretty easy and painless.

Sean - Antwort

I just completed this and other than getting a little overzealous with the second strip and having to do the heat/pry method it went exactly as the guide said. I even took the shortcut in the guide and used rubber bands and a soup can to hold the display rather than removing it completely. The adhesive strips are different than the ones in the guide but it's not rocket science to figure out how they go on.

I'm VERY happy with iFixit (my second purchase) and the guides provided. KUDOS!!!

Paul - Antwort

Vorsicht beim öffnen mit einem Saugnapf!! Dabei kann es passieren, dass man das Kabel des Homebuttons "abreist". Daher empfehle ich die Saugnapfzange, die bei iFixit angeboten wird.

Viel Erfolg beim Reparieren. ;-)

disentir - Antwort

I don't know what but something went wrong. The home button AND the Touch ID of my iPhone 5s don't work anymore. Is there anyone that had the same issue? How did you solve?

frankieromiti - Antwort

Can't believe managed this, what a sense of achievement, never thought mine would work properly. I used a suction cup but screen shot up and yanked the home button connector out. Fortunately not broken. Also, there was no connector cover.

Tips: I used a long fridge magnet and put screws in order of iFixit guide. Then replaced in reverse order. The fourth (non Magnetic) screw on the plate didn't seem to go back properly - I think the socket might have come out with the screw. Didn't seem to matter. The connectors are super fiddly but snap back in place. Helps to work out the positioning of components on underside so you know where to position when looking from top. I put everything on a big box on my desk to raise it to eye height (I'm v short sighted) that helped immensely. The digitiser connector cable (3rd removed near top) has a plastic ridge running down middle, and that fits into a slot in the socket - all 3 of those cable connectors snap shut. Dental floss, 2 cards and radiator heat for glue!

Gabe - Antwort

I finished replacing battery for my iPhone 5S today, while there is trouble I encounter during repairing. The Philips screw driver came with the iPhone 5S Replacement Battery Fix Kit is actually too large to take those screw out. It seems to be working fine with two screws near the right lower bottom of my phone (close to speaker), but it doesn't fit for the ones on the metal covers that hold LCD screen assembly cable connector and battery cable to the logic board. I had to work with LCD screen cable connected since it was too much hassle to remove it. I pushed very hard to release battery cable cover screws and stripped one of the screw heads. Please change that Philips screw driver to the correct size.

Zili Qiu - Antwort

when i took my 5s apart, i got the home button disconnected without a problem. powering the phone off was a problem,since the display is dead ,the whole phone was warm,i pushed the power button for a few seconds and slid my finger across the screen and it shut down and cooled off. removing the home cable went ok and the other cables . i use a refigerator magnet like businesses send out to hold the screws,works well one battery strip broke closer to the case side,was able to lift battery slightly and insert a credit card and ease it out.since the card was under the battery i pried against the back case with it ,not the circuit board. i use a pill bottle to hold small parts while waiting for parts ,for screws best to put back in where they go so you don't mix up or lose them.

keethpr - Antwort

Thought all was good, but no reboot after completion. Guess I go back in and check all connections... Wondering what fail rate is out of ten.

Jeff Pietsch - Antwort

I just &&^&^$^ ripped the home button cable ... nice

Jack Flynn - Antwort

To open it up I lifted one corner, inserted my flat spudger slightly and moved it around to pop the tabs. I didn't take off the screen and just used my wireless speaker and a rubber band to have the screen at 90 degrees. Then the white strips snapped right away even at a low angle. So i used my hairdryer while covering the rest of the back of the phone with aluminum foil. Then I butchered the battery trying to take it out but it didn't catch on fire and burn my house down so I guess it went OK. Of course I also didn't have tweezers so putting on the Touch ID bracket wasn't great.

Before putting the phone together I turned it on and tried Touch ID but it didn't work the first time while presses did. So I reseated the cable before having to take it apart and putting the bracket on again.

Oscar - Antwort

Not my first repair of small delicate things, but I'll add my vote for the adhesive strips not coming out and then during the very slow process of trying to remove the battery it caught on fire and that was that. So, as someone else commented on --had a phone that kept a charge for a while but worked fine to having a replacement screen for someone else iphone 5s in the future. My wife was ready to kill me when this all happened.

wd5ivd - Antwort

Amazing guide

Ahmad Bentaib - Antwort

No problems following the directions. They are explicit. Worked perfectly on power up. Yea me!

Don't be in a hurry, don't drink a bunch of espressos before doing this. Go very slowly. Put all your screws down on white paper in orientation where they came out. Go very slowly opening the phone, It takes a little bit of force, but once it starts to open it will pry open just fine with a plastic smudger. The cables pop off easily but are difficult to get lined back up. Be careful of the connector next to the battery that sits near the 3 you'll remove, it may pop off too when you remove the battery. Getting the battery out is a PITA. Get the back of the phone HOT before trying to remove it. I found that using a pair of eyebrow tweezers worked great for getting that clip back on the home button connector.

I give it 5 out of 5. Bravo! Saved me a bunch of d'oh and dough.

scottcnevin - Antwort

Assembled the iPhone twice but I still only have the gray opening apple screen. What did I do wrong? My phone won't turn off either. As soon as i completed the first try, I hit the home button and the gray apple screen came on. No matter what I did, the screen stayed on even during the second try.

Jeanne - Antwort

Great instructions, if followed and time is taken moderate to easy DIY job.

I did not have a Spudger nor a new Battery Adhesive strip - didn't matter though as I used the blow dryer rather than removing as in video, and re-used the old and worked just fine.

As for a Spudger, save yourself and instead use a hair pin..yeh hair pin :p They are small enough and coated with a glue compound that is perfect for removing all connectors required to complete this job.

David Rossignol - Antwort


bei mir hat es super funktioniert. Hatte mir das Replacement Kit mit Akku und Werkzeug von ifixit bestellt, dazu sollte man eine spitze Pinzette und eine Schere bereitlegen. Die Klebestreifen sind mir prompt abgerissen, man muss sehr aufpassen, dass man damit nicht an einer der Ecken oder feinen Drähte hängen bleibt, von da aus reissen sie dann ein. Also mit dem Fön die Rückseite erwärmt, und mit zwei Kärtchen a la KV-Karte (eine allein ist zu weich) den Akku rausgehebelt. Der alte Akku ist dabei total verbogen, war nicht sehr elegant. Der Zusammenbau hat gut geklappt, jetzt noch den Akku voll laden, und hoffen, dass dann wieder laufzeitmäßig Ruhe ist.

Etwas pummelig ist die Klammer am Schluss auf den Anschluss des Home-Buttons drauf zu Klipsen, Man muss dabei erst das Blech auf der Oberkante einhängen, dann nach unten klappen und einschnappen.

Eingeschaltet und erstmal keinen Unterschied gemerkt, Akku meldet 46%. Also jetzt laden und dann weitersehen.

Danke Sam, Danke ifixit!

Moldy Snoopy - Antwort

I just finished replacing in battery in my wife's iPhone 5s. This is my first project with ifixit. I went by the video, not realizing the guides were available until I had completed it and was about to turn it on. I was HORRORIFED to learn the fours screws at top that hold down the screen connectors are DIFFERENT SIZES and have to go back into the hole they came out of or it could DAMAGE THE LOGIC BOARD!!!! That was never mentioned in the video!! The phone seems very slow down and is not downloading quickly on a known fast connection so I am not happy that such a critical detail was passed over in the video. Perhaps I have damaged the logic board after all.

David Gibson - Antwort

Not a fan on the video, Have the iPhone 5S, Model A1429, much easier as no home screen cable to be concern with, Battery fit good and plastic pry tool worked well also.

hugh wax - Antwort

A1429 is actually an iPhone 5—similar to the 5s, but we have a different guide for it. ;)

Jeff Suovanen -

Plus - maybe note the top of the iPhone has tabs that slide under the aluminum frame, small detail but good to know.

hugh wax - Antwort

Thanks for this! Pretty intense task. Had to recheck the connections when after the first try the touchscreen didn't respond. Wouldn't like to open and close the front repeatedly. All the tools from repair kit were necessary plus pincers for sliding back the home button cable bracket. Another one of the adhesive tapes under battery didn't come out and basically had to dig the old battery out – which certainly butchered the polymere battery for good, I guess. It's soft. If you would like to put the same battery back for some reason, make sure you don't use force nor pointy tools.

Jaakko Lehtonen - Antwort

What did you do to correct the unresponsive touch screen?

sumira -

Do I actually need the battery adhesive strips when i replace battery?

Michael Lombardi - Antwort

I watched the ifixit videos, read the instructions, and most importantly I read what the people said after replacing the battery. I found out there are three reasons why the home repairs go wrong. (1) The first is not keeping track of the screws. They are of different lengths, and putting a long screw where it does not belong will ruin the motherboard. Mark them with colored sharpies. (2) The second is not being able to remove the tape that is holding the battery. Use the heat gun!!! I broke the second tape even with the heat gun, and I had to use a credit card to pry it out. (3) The last one is not insulating the battery connector. A metal battery bracket (Step 15) goes over the battery connector, and it will short the battery. Put an electric tape over the battery connector. I think the third reason is why the phone starts acting crazy.

Mark dagyroid - Antwort

Really useful, now my iPhone is back to life :D

Martin Morgado - Antwort

This guide is very good but I still wasn't sure about a few details. But by watching some videos, including the one at the beginning of this guide, and reading some of the comments on this guide I was able to figure everything out. I went very slowly (the entire process took me about 5 hours), paying close attention to every detail. One of the adhesive strips broke when I was removing the old battery, but the dental floss trick worked very well. I'm glad this guide mentions the different lengths of the screws holding down the bracket over the front panel assembly connectors. I might have mixed them up if I didn't know they are different lengths. I had some trouble with the new adhesive strips, but I was able to get them to work even though they weren't installed exactly like the battery adhesive strips guide says to install them (you don't get a second chance with the strips).

David Erickson - Antwort

I was completely successful, although it was rather harder than indicated. Took me about 2 hours.

The battery replacement is different than illustrated if you buy the iPhone 5s battery replacement kit from iFixit: If I bought a repair kit, I'd very much like to see it illustrated exactly. There is a good way to install the battery replacement kit that does not appear to be documented, which guarantees proper placement of the battery such that the power connector is in the right place. It would also be good to have a little more guidance up-front for treatment of the battery cable. It takes a little careful folding, and there's also a little routing of the antenna cable that needs mentioning.

The touch id cable bracket reattachment is a little glossed over. There are two tiny tabs on the socket that fit into two tiny holes in the bracket, and then you just snap it down the tabs and holes acting as hinges.

Dan - Antwort

A very useful guide which I carefully followed to a successful battery change. I didn't remove the screen cables as that looked very fiddly. Instead I opened the screen to 90 degrees and used 2 rubber bands to secure it to the original phone box with a piece of foam between. That was a very steady way to ensure I didn't damage the cables.

adrt - Antwort

OMG. The instructions worked great, thank you! Now that the phone is fully buttoned up and running, time to clean up my mess and "recycle" the old battery.

wait...the old battery says "IFIXIT replacement battery"...WHYYYYYYYYYYY.

do NOT drink alcohol and watch venture brothers while performing this procedure.

nova noon - Antwort

Followed all instructions. Phone turns on fine and I even received a text, however, my touch screen is completely inresponsive. What should I go back and check? The four screws? The three attachments under that metal plate. This is my first apple repair and I was definitely in over my head. Anything helps. thank you.

Lindsey Bates - Antwort

well be carefull when removing the battery , i was not sucessfull with the adhesive removal and then i tried several times and succeded , but at the top most part , there is a little black mat like little buses , unfortunately , i ruined that half way , it was linked to the volume and the vibration tab together with the lock screen , so now i can not on my phone nor off , i can not add volume not nor reduce nor put vibration , i have to do that on settings , well be carefull with that black mat

franck ludovic - Antwort

Thank you so much for the help, I now have a mobile phone again instead of a car phone. Quick question though, I begin to experience an intermittently unresponsive touchscreen afterwards that is now now responding at all. I am unsure if the two are related but after chatting with folks, I was advised that perhaps something I did during the battery replacement is responsible. I have checked the digitalized cable connection and DFU mode. Do you have any advice?

sumira - Antwort

when the adhesive strips are broken , you can try using fishing line to remove the adhesive from under the battery - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gkCyl7kR...

also this method using steel wire seems even better - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W5GzU11q...

Sebastian Edinger - Antwort

Thank you. Great instructions. I bought your kit and was well worth it. Now I'll do my other iPhone 5s. The tricky part is putting the screws back in on the cable retainer since they are all different sizes and one is not magnetic. Also, folding the battery cable to mimic the original battery. It just feels wrong. use a plastic plunger.

rsimoes - Antwort

This was an excellent easy method to just follow the video pause at each step and then continued to see each step done. Only problem I had was dropping one of the screws that hold the battery cable. Thank is not a good idea in case you are wondering.

shorttoes1 - Antwort

Comme toujours, un tutoriel très bien fait qui m'a permis de redonner vie à un iPhone 5S à moindre frais.

Merci iFixit !

DeNiS SaNNoM - Antwort

Hey everyone! I just changed my phones battery and put everything back but now all i can see is a black screen. My phone seems to be charging and my itunes on the computer can detect that the phone is on but all I can see is a black screen. Does anyone know what the problem is?

Kahwan Eliza - Antwort

So I did this and now my phone doesn't read the battery correctly. It randomly shuts off and doesn't charge right. Did I break something or do I have a bad battery? Besides the issue your write up was on point. Thanks

Theodore Tripp - Antwort

Good instructions. Dealing with those teeny tiny connectors and screws is not for the faint of heart! My first attempt failed as the screen would not respond to touch. I opened it up again and after removing the upper (squarish) shield re-seated the connectors, one of which was not connected. Put it all back together and boom, all was well.

I now know why Apple charges $79 to replace the battery.

Steve Graff - Antwort

Thought I would add my two cents. First, it's an excellent kit and you have everything that you need. I also have professional tools but I used the tools in the kit. Only one tool that I didn't already have. Here is my advice for those who have problems with getting "adhesive out from under the battery', like I did. Use a card from a deck of playing cards. The better cards are 100% plastic (not 'coated' plastic cards), and it's perfect for sliding under and chiseling the foam adhesive from under the battery. I took the joker and cut it in half. You just need to take your time and work really slow. Pick up a set of kids birthday deck for fifty cents.

Sam Iron - Antwort

Why take the display off? Not neccessary.

Simon - Antwort

Iphone 5S stays in apple logo after battery change

Han Delissen - Antwort

Did you get a solution? I’ve the same issue. Thanks

Bernard Trillot -

I finished changing the battery of my iPhone. All is Ok but I opened and disassembled my iPhone 3 times to succeed.

The manual is not badly done but disassembly is very delicate when it is the first time. It is not easy to go back because we do not know if we pushed the connectors well, the handling of the screws which are very small is very delicate.

To be honest, I understand Apple to put special screws to close his iPhone because it is very risky to disassemble and discourage the general public is a good idea.

It is always easy for anyone who wants to buy a suitable screwdriver.

Last observation, I do not criticize Apple to stick its battery but I criticize the amount of glue it puts. It's way too much and it feels like she's doing it on purpose ...

Bernard Trillot -

Finally did it! Great instructions. I followed every step, but when removing the battery strips, the first one came off easily by constant pulling and keeping the grip always close to the battery, but the second one broke right after the second pull and vanished beneath the battery. First I tried doubled dental floss, but it was torn right away. Using an old credit card and a hair dryer did it. Unfortunately when removing the display it got loosened from its frame on the lower side. Applying some points of super glue during reassembly solved it - I hope so at least.

Stephan Röder - Antwort

thanks for the guide. i really had trouble putting in the 4 screws near the top, even with a magnetic screwdriver, they kept falling off.... any one have any tips on this? have another phone to do.


UltraRed - Antwort

You can increase the magnetic power of your driver using pretty much any magnet, so that it holds the screws more securely. If you really want to fine-tune it, get yourself one of these little guys. Otherwise, just use a pair of sharp tweezers to hold the screw in place while you thread it.

Jeff Suovanen -

Thank you!!!! This guide worked perfectly! I made the unfortunate mistake of removing all 4 screws before reading that they were different sizes. I was able to determine which were the 1.7mm screws, but the 1.3mm and 1.2mm were too close to tell so I just left out the screw from the bottom right. The phone works perfectly now touch ID and all!

Vincent Wagner - Antwort

Replaced battery successfully and it i back together with everything working, however I can't see to get the top of the screen to sit snugly in place. It is sitting proud of the case. The bottom sits in perfectly.. But something is stopping the top from seating. Don't want to force it.

danielcstokes - Antwort

Very nerve wracking but also very satisfying once completed! Invaluable guide, comments too.

Brian Riess - Antwort

Worked well. Lost one screw in the process: the non-magnetic one which you specifically mention in step 17. But three screws are enough to hold the cable bracket and the phone works magnificently. Thanks a lot for the detailed guide!

Ariel Huber - Antwort

Definitely the hairiest battery replacement I've ever done. Very upset with Apple's continued efforts to cost customers more money, by making battery replacement so hard. That being said, the guide needs work, as well. Please add the following to this guide:

1. Add note about the plastic + metal + glass from a previous comment.

2. Please add tricks for removing the glue. I didn't see the trick of pulling it out the side, or the dental floss until I'd bent the battery.

3. In the new tape instructions, please show where the non-sticky black tab part goes when putting the battery in. Mine ended up sticking up, instead of to the tape on the end on the battery, which made the battery stick to the fingerprint sensor cable. I worked it out, but would have helped a lot to know what to pay attention to and how it impacts things later.

4. Please add a visual guide to exactly what to line the new battery up with. "Line up the top" is one of the worst instructions I've ever read.

Kathleen Soule - Antwort

Awesome guide! I think I now have the confidence to replace the battery in hubs iPhone and maybe fix a few others I have laying around!


Cassandra - Antwort

Great guide however my only issue is the screen is black. It doesn't seem to turn on. I tried the old battery as well any that doesn't help either.

I have it plugged in right now trying to charge the battery

Any thoughts?

tech - Antwort

Just finished a second phone and battery. That one works perfect without issue.

Still no power on the first one.

tech -

Thank you all for this guide and for the valuable insights in the comments. I think this guide could be improved to make it more clear and to incorporate some of the options provided by others. The old adhesive strips broke off part way out so I retired to a combination of heat, dental floss, spudger and card to get the battery out. That was really the only significant difficulty. I think the time listed for completing this project is very optimistic unless you have already done this previously. Frankly it took me 40 minutes to study all of the steps and comments!!

Patrick Langvardt - Antwort

My replacement was a success. The suction cup would not lift my (intact) screen so I resorted to a razor blade between the metal and the glass, and that worked well and without damage. There is a little gap under the glass at the bottom left side of the glass (but away from the corner) that will be easier to get the blade under once you wedge it up. The case also gives way a little allowing the blade in there. I suggest you start there till the gap under the glass is big enough to get the spudger under, then use the spudger from there working your way to the right. The outer adhesive came off in one motion whereas the inner broke several times. However, with only about 1/4 of it removed I was able to easily lift the battery out with spudger+fingers without issue and without battery deformation. So for me, the challenge (30+min) was all about the opening and the battery was no big deal. I wouldn't recommend the method that has you putting the tweezers into the pentalobe screw holes to get the screen up.

anonymous 9746 - Antwort

Also, the battery came shipped with about 60% charge on it. So plan on spending an hour or so draining the battery (I used FT + video + flashlight + bright screen)

anonymous 9746 - Antwort

I am not one to often do reviews, either good or bad. I am writing this because this kit and the online step by step instructions are exceptional. Everything arrived quickly and well packaged, the tools are of good quality, nothing broke while doing the repair ( as some other online kits had broken tool reviews ). Immediately following the replacement I am extremely happy and hoping the lifespan of the battery is as good as this process has been. The moderate difficulty is accurate and should only be attempted by people with some degree of micro tool/part aptitude.

Michael Bennett - Antwort

i have replaced battery on iphone 4s, 6 and 6s plus previously, all with no issues. also replaced the whole screen assembly on iphone 6 which was much trickier than this, never had any problems before.

i thought the process had gone very well but when i put the screen back together i get vertical lines and no touch ID functionality. i was doing this for a friend so it really sucks.

i have tried EVERYTHING going back over my steps five of six times to make sure everything is right, the third cable at the top is definitely connected properly, all screw and brackets in place. and i’ve also been through with a clean little brush to clean all the connections etc. no luck!

VERY Frustrating :(

sarah - Antwort

The plastic spudgers you provide are so soft after one or two uses they become almost useless. When you modify your kits, have better ones fabricated. We don’t want to have to keep spending money on replacements when they can be made right the first time. Also the plastic adhesive broke before I could even start to release the battery. It was old and brittle. What does one do then? Use the plastic spudger? How when it’s so soft it bends. No wonder Apple charges an organ to replace this stuff. They probably go through a dozen spudgers just trying to replace one battery. And I’m a pretty handy guy.

james darden - Antwort

I agree with winternick … This did not work for me and now my phone is in pieces and I don’t want to risk putting it back together for risk of the batter now being damage by my attempts to figure out how to remove black tape at the base of the battery to try and find the adhesive tab which does not appears to exist on my iPhone 5S.

How extremely disappointing and at least an hour of my life that I won’t get back the same as my now useless phone.

Extremely disappointing.

Alun Williams - Antwort

Steps I used to get the battery out. Pulled the adhesive stips, they broke. Heated the back to soften the strips up. Used dental floss and it broke. I then decided to squirt a little IPA , rubbing alcohol, under the battery. Make sure it is the good stuff and not the watered down type. I then used a plastic credit card and pryed it out without too much trouble. I believe the alcohol softened up tape. If not mechanically inclined I reccomend spending the 80 dollars from apple.


david Ingram - Antwort

3 things i learned and may be of value to you:

1) Removing the screen was easy using a flat razor blade as the pry bar, rather than the spudger.

2) I found it wasn’t necessary to detach the screen at the top. Rubberband the screen at a 90 degree angle to a small box or something similar (see the illustration in step 13). Then you can skip steps 17-22! This prevents accidentally messing up the cables at the top of the phone, or putting the wrong screws in the wrong holes.

3) Take your time on the adhesive strip removal! Cut the black plastic joining the two and pull straight out slowly one at a time. I got one completely out but only about 20% of the second one. Once again, skip the spudger, a credit card worked great to pry the battery up, no heat required in my case. Start toward the bottom left of the phone to avoid the squishing the volume button circuits at the top.

SquidTurbo - Antwort

After replacing the battery, my iPhone comes up with a message at the start saying: “Touch ID can’t be used on this device anymore”. Well, my iPhone Menu still allows me to configure it, but after 2 seconds it just says: "Touch ID can’t be used on this device”. Seems like iOS10 doesn’t allow any 3rd party parts.

Daniel Müller - Antwort

The adhesive strips come with my 5s battery replacement set cannot be removed from the blue film. It sticks on it and cannot be peeled at all.

Waylon Chen - Antwort

Overall great guide. I have followed it very carefully with 100% success. Here’s some advice:

1) Do yourself a favor and get the iFixit 5s battery replacement kit. The tools are really good and help a lot.

2) via goldenimaging: Use tape to limit the amount the displayed can be opened. Zero chance of ripping the touch ID cable.

3) Apply heat even before attempting to pull the adhesive strips - the back of your phone should be hot to the touch. They become more elastic and don’t rip so easily. But still pull as slowly as humanly possible and resist the temptation to go any faster :) Re-apply heat before second strip.

Michal Pawlowski - Antwort

I followed all the steps in this guide to the letter, reassembled the phone and had a problem, some white lines appeared on the screen. I then disconnected and reconnected the battery, but that did nothing. Then I unplugged and replugged the LCD cable and now I have a black screen with two white lines and I can’t do anything. Anyone knows what to do??

Joaquín Sánchez - Antwort

Hi Joaquín—try the tips in this post: White Vertical Lines on LCD. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

Ohne Lupenbrille hätte ich das nicht hin bekommen! Die Klebestreifen unter dem Akku sind natürlich gerissen, mit Föhn und Plastikkarte , Geduld und nochmal Föhn, hab ich den Akku dann herausbekommen. Das ist ja ein Puzzle in Miniaturformat. Danke für die Anleitungen hier!

Martin Carstensen - Antwort

Here’s a tip. BEFORE you disassemble your phone, check the single set of adhesive strips that iFixit sends you. Both sides (blue and pink) should peel back easily. A number of posts here point out how the blue side of the strips was fused to the plastic backing. Mine was too. Alas, my phone is disassembled, and now i have to find new strips before i can reassemble. iFixIt should really send two sets of strips, and/or fix the quality control issue on these strips.

peterbastian - Antwort

Everything was going fine until I tried to use my adhesive strips. I was sent the bad strips on Dec 12 as mentioned above. The strips are welded to the blue tape and can’t be removed without ruining them. IFixIt - please fix this quality control issue. It is terrible to have your phone all opened up with the old battery out to realize you can’t use the new strips. I was very pleased that I live very near the iFixIt headquarters and got fantastic service from an employee at the facility to quickly replace it. But this won’t work for 99.99% of others with the problem who will be stuck waiting for a replacement.

SC - Antwort

I completely destroyed my phone by ripping the home button cable. The phone came apart with minimal force, probably because I drained the battery down (as recommended). This probably warmed up the glue. If this is the case, there should be a specific warning!

william - Antwort

All done, and nothing. No screen activity, no buzz. I did a “hard reset” by pressing both the power and home button at the same time. No activity at all. I’m charging it a while, then I guess I’ll open it back up and check the connections.

The guide was excellent and you guy’s comments help too! I’m just bummed that I’m all done and it didn’t work.

Brian Kowald - Antwort

The guide was excellent. The comments help too! However, I’m all done and it didn’t work. I’m charging it awhile. The phone is warm like the battery is charging. No screen activity at all. I did a hard reset, but pressing the home and sleep/wake button at the same time.

Bummer - its dead. Any ideas or suggestions? Open it up and check the screen connections?

Brian Kowald - Antwort

Yep, open it back up and double-check your work. One word of caution—if you disconnected/connected the display cables without disconnecting the battery first, you may have blown the backlight filter. If shining a bright light on the display allows you to see a faint image, the backlight circuit is dead. This is a common mistake and it is repairable, but requires specialized equipment and microsoldering skills. You will likely need to visit a repair shop if that’s the case.

Jeff Suovanen -

Thank you. The replacement battery is a whole lot less expensive than a new iPhone. The advice in the video about the board for identifying the different parts was cagey. Thanks.

Jane Gravely - Antwort

Anyone interested in the time to complete full steps (with manual remove screen, and complete screen removal per steps) as a first time repair person:

~3.5 hours.

Jason Melling - Antwort