Schwierigkeitsgrad
Mittel
Schritte
33
Zeitaufwand
30 Minuten - 2 Stunden
- Pentalobe Schrauben 1 Schritt
- Öffnungsvorgang 9 Schritte
- Akku trennen 2 Schritte
- Displayeinheit 5 Schritte
- Wi-Fi Diversity Antenne 6 Schritte
- Taptic Engine 4 Schritte
- Akku 6 Schritte
Empfohlene Anleitung
Diese Anleitung wird von den iFixit-Mitarbeitern als außergewöhnlich gut eingestuft.
Einleitung
Mit Hilfe dieser Anleitung kannst du die Akkulaufzeit und die Leistung deines iPhone 8 mit einem neuen Akku wieder verlängern. Wenn dein Akku aufgebläht ist, musst du entsprechende Vorsichtsmaßnahmen treffen.
In dieser Anleitung wird auch die Displayeinheit ausgebaut, um Schäden an den Displaykabeln zu vermeiden. Wenn du dich sicher genug fühlst, den Austausch meistern zu können, ohne die Displaykabel zu überlasten, dann kannst du die Schritte mit dem Ausbau des Displays einfach überspringen.
Es ist zwar möglich, die Klebestreifen am Akku gleich nach dem Öffnen des Smartphones zu entfernen, die schriftliche Anleitung empfiehlt aber, zuerst die Taptic Engine zu entfernen. Elastische Klebestreifen sollen in einem flachen Winkel herausgezogen werden. So vermeidest du, dass die unteren Klebestreifen versehentlich zerreißen, entweder, weil sie an der Taptic Engine hängen bleiben, oder weil du sie eben unter einem zu großem Winkel herausgezogen hast.
Für eine optimale Leistung sollte der neu eingebaute Akku nach Abschluss der Reparatur kalibriert werden: Lade ihn auf 100% auf, und lasse ihn mindesten zwei weitere Stunden laden. Benutze dann dein iPhone bis es sich aufgrund eines leeren Akkus ausschaltet. Lade den Akku dann erneut ohne Unterbrechung auf 100% auf.
Werkzeuge
Einführungsvideo
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Schalte dein iPhone aus, bevor du daran arbeitest.
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Drehe die beiden 3,5 mm Pentalobe Schrauben an der unteren Kante heraus.
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Es ist leichter das iPhone zu öffnen, wenn du das untere Ende erwärmst, so werden die Verklebungen aufgeweicht.
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Du kannst das untere Ende des iPhones mit einem Haartrockner oder einem iOpener etwa 90 Sekunden lang erwärmen, dann sollte der Kleber weich genug sein.
Hello,
What temperature is suitable for removing the front display ? I bought i-Fixit ProTech which is not include the heating "roller" . Thanks for help
Ich habe eine heiße Wärmflasche verwendet. Das hat gut funktioniert :-)
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Setze einen Saugnapf auf die untere Hälfte der Vorderseite , direkt über den Home Button.
Even with using high heat from a blow dryer, I had to put the suction cup over the home button or the bottom edge wouldn’t lift at all. That waterproof adhesive is incredibly strong.
As others have said, this part really stinks, but it’ll work if you keep trying. Agree with multiple rounds of hair dryer on high (did about 60-90s each time), and with having to out the suction cup over the home button. You don’t need a big gap to pry it open - it’ll be slight …
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Ziehe gleichmäßig und fest am Saugnapf. Es sollte sich ein kleiner Spalt zwischen Front Panel und Rückgehäuse bilden.
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Setze ein Plektrum in den Spalt ein.
Just completed a smashed screen replacement, this is probably the most time consuming part. Used packing tape to cover the screen to help create a suction surface (had to replace it a couple times because it pulls away after a purple good pulls ) Used consistent heat for about 5 minutes, then stuck a pick in the tiniest opening… and pry pry pry!
I failed at this step. No amount of heating, pulling, and rocking opened up enough of a gap to slip in even a knife let alone the blue plastic tool. That's with a phone that has an undamaged screen - just trying to replace the battery. Apple won this round :(
Be really careful here. I placed a sucker to the front and rear to help lever off the screen. However, the whole thing came away much easier than I anticipated and I ripped the front part completely away from the rear, tearing all three connector cables. New iPhone required.
Note that the opening pick they show here does not appear to come with the kit, which is a bummer! The plunger, the mini blue crowbar thing, these are too thick. I ended up using a really thin guitar pick.
Following careful methods can mostly preserve the seal and reusable. Won’t be as water tight but probably still pretty good.
Bottom edge is pull up with suction + separating tool. Use small precision scissor to cut any tape that gets overly stretched upon initial opening.
- For the 2 long edges, use an exacto knife to separate the seal from the screen. This keeps the tape on the chassis. Go slow along the long sides. Becareful to avoid scratching the paint on underside of the screen’s edge.
- Top corners have a thick sealed tape. Best to just use separating tool to twist it open.
In summary, top and bottom edge use separating tool. Side long edges can use exacto knife to gradually gently separate the seal from underside of the screen’s edge.
Intact screen, check. Tool kit, check. Hair dryer hot enough to make the phone too hot to touch, check. Following all instructions, check. Screen still in place and refusing to come off, check.
I heated, reheated, pulled and pulled. I simply could not get it off. Worked at it for an hour and a half, and I’m not a small guy. Yes it is hard to hold, but could get a grip. Just could not get it to budge. Off to the iPhone repair shop tomorrow. Anybody want to buy a repair kit and replacement battery?
After struggling for 30m, I looked up some alternate methods and found this helpful:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=25zAK5mG...
- I used a utility knife and pried up right under the home button
- the angle matters! I was trying to go too far down before going in. The top surface of the phone is rather thin, so you go in after barely getting under the chassis lip
- tilt utility knife left to right once you’ve got it under to work it in
- leave the utility knife in, and now add that pick
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Schiebe das Plektrum entlang der linken Kante von der unteren Ecke an nach oben in Richtung der Tasten für die Lautstärkeregelung und des Stummschalters. Trenne so die Klebeverbindung des Displays auf.
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Halte vor der oberen linken Ecke an.
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Setze das Plektrum an der rechten unteren Ecke ein. Schiebe es um die Ecke herum, dann entlang der rechten Kante nach oben. Trenne dadurch die Verklebung.
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Hebe vorsichtig den Saugnapf an und mit ihm den unteren Teil des Displays.
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Ziehe an der kleinen Lasche am Saugnapf, um ihn vom Front Panel zu lösen.
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Schiebe das Plektrum unter das Display um die obere linke Ecke und die Oberkante entlang, um die letzte Klebeverbindung zu trennen.
I did end up using just a smidge of IFIXIT adhesive remover along the edge before opening and that seemed to really help
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Schiebe die Displayeinheit leicht nach unten, weg von der Oberkante, um die Clips zu lösen, mit denen sie am Rückgehäuse gehalten wird.
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Öffne das iPhone, indem du das Display nach links klappst, so wie man die Seite eines Buches umschlägt.
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Lehne das Display an einen geeigneten Gegenstand, um es gut zu stützen, während du weiter am iPhone arbeitest.
Nach RECHTS klappen - nicht nach links!
Als ich das Flachbandkabel auf der rechten Seite sah, hab ich mich auch gefragt, ob die das mit nach Links klappen ernst meinen, und das „Buch“ lieber auf japanische Art nach rechts aufgeklappt. Das sollte dringend in der Anleitung korrigiert werden!
“Up from the left” means lift up the left side.
Which is the same as folding to the right.
“Like the back cover of a book” explains it even more clearly.
Maybe it gets lost in translation?
Fold to THE RIGHT - not to the left!
When I saw the ribbon cable on the right side, I also wondered if they were serious about folding it to the left, and the "book" would rather be opened to the right in the Japanese way.This should be corrected urgently in the manual!
Hi Jim, the display opens from the left side, toward the right side. It should look like the back cover of a book. Hope this helps. Good luck with the repair!
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Entferne vier Kreuzschlitzschrauben, mit denen die Halterung des unteren Displaykabels am Logic Board befestigt sind. Sie haben folgende Längen:
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Zwei 1,3 mm Schrauben.
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Zwei 2,8 mm Schrauben.
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Entferne die Halterung.
Not Y000 this time haha
It is not ideal, but possible for these screws.
using the repair kit i purchased with my screen replacement, i am currently having issues removing these screws with the PH000. please help
I was too, thankfully I had another set that contained the PH00 bit, that worked great for me.
Ok. My screw is stuck. How do I remove it? Philips head is stripped.
Solved it myself. Firm pressure did the trick.
took me awhile to figure out I needed to use PHOO bit for the 2 -1.3 screws
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Heble den Akkuanschluss mit der Spudgerspitze aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.
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Biege das Akku Anschlusskabel etwas weg vom Logic Board, um zu verhindern, dass es sich versehentlich wieder mit dem Akku verbindet und das iPhone während der Reparatur unter Spannung setzt.
Make sure you pry the battery connector off from the right hand side as shown in the picture. Theres a delicate component on the logicboard near the battery connector called a Mosfet which is linked to the battery charging software. If you knock it off accidently you’ll loose battery charging and the phone will boot loop and youll need to have it re-soldered back on.
So this is it. You don’t have to go any further removing the screen. You can replace the battery right from this point.
I wish I saw this comment 2 hours ago
This is where I broke my phone, a phone that was working quite well, paid for in full. Just because I had a cracked screen. Be super careful when connecting the cables. I was in a hurry and not paying attention, used too much force when re-connecting and broke those teeny little pins that could not be repaired. A tech tried for an hour to no avail. cautionary tale. Good luck
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Heble den unteren Displaystecker mit der Spudgerspitze aus seinem Sockel.
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Entferne die drei 1,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben, mit denen die Halterung über dem Verbinder der Front Panel Sensoreinheit befestigt ist.
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Entferne die Halterung.
If you are replacing the adhesive liner, the remaining release liner strips will interfere with the two outer screws. I had to cut a working section out of the liner at each location and move it aside with the spudger.
This part is throwing me for a loop. Having difficulty finding the read head for these screws. Is it the same size as the two small 1.3mm screws in step 12?
ended up getting it with the PH000, I must of just been rushing it.
My bracket looks different and none of the screw heads I have fits.
Mine too? Any help?
These screws did not stick to the magnetic screwdriver. Extremely difficult to get them back in place - but with some patience i succeeded :)
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Entferne die Displayeinheit.
Hi ifixit, if you find my method dangerous, please remove it.
After Step 17, I skipped Step 18 to Step 28.
At Step 29, I lifted up the four adhesive black pull-tabs to expose the white adhesive side. Next, I use hot air gun and blow on the back cover of the iphone for about a minute (maybe a hairdryer will work too) .
Warning: Don't overheat the iPhone, or you may accidentally ignite the battery.
I think the temperature was around 60 DegC.
Extreme Caution: Do Not overheat. I use my hand to gauge the hotness. Careful not to burn yourself or the board.
I was able to pull out all the white adhesive tapes easily as the adhesive soften.
DO NOT TRY this method if you are a novice or inexperience! I am not responsible if you hurt yourself or damage your iphone!
Hey John! I’m glad the repair worked out for you!
From our research, applying heat does soften the adhesive strips, but it also causes them to lose structural integrity and break more easily. That’s why we normally suggest using heat after the strips are already broken. Removing the Taptic Engine definitely takes a few extra steps, but we feel that it gives fixers the best chance of pulling out the adhesive strips intact.
I agree with John, skip 18 through 27. These are to make it easier to remove the battery adhesive. I replaced the batteries on two IPhone 8s. The first one I did all that stuff and the adhesive still broken and I had to carefully pry the battery out anyway. When I reassembled the phone the Home button no longer worked. Looking it up, this is apparently fairly common due to all the fragile wires involved in these steps. The second I skipped these steps and when I reassembled it everything worked fine. Not one of the eight (both phones) adhesive strips came out properly. I fully drained the batteries before doing the repairs. By the way, I use the virtual home button on the one phone, it’s a little annoying, but the phone is still usable if you’re not ready to shell out for a new phone.
I also skipped these steps. I won’t say it was entirely successful - two of the four adhesive strips broke and could not be grabbed with tweezers. But I had gotten most of the adhesive out already and the battery was quite loose, so I used a warmer under the phone, then gently slid a flat plastic blade under one end of the battery and slowly worked it up the phone. (Dental floss would have been safer-don’t do what I did, kids!)
Likely can skip step 18-28 and all the risks. Battery tape is relatively removable by the following method
- use a tweezer to pull up a corner of each tape. Then use fingers to peel back all the black tab on top of battery
- use 2 hands. Index and thumb on both. Pull about 1/4” with one hand, hold the tension and pull 1/4” with the other hand. Alternate, go slow. Pull out all 4 tape completely. I think the pause after each 1/4” while holding the stretched tape firmly prevents the tape from over stretching to become too thin and break.
- Don’t apply heat, I would guess that makes tape softer and break easier.
Have tried other methods and failed in the past. Pulling too fast (tape will snap) or use a tweezer to twist/roll (sharp edges will cut tape) Anyway, just use index/thumb on both hands and alternately pull slowly
I did do 2 iPhone 8 battery change this way. One removed all tape without breaking. Another broken all 4 tape after about 1/3 pulled so likely some factory assembly differeces.
I second this, this method works well in most cases. Removing the haptics helps to keep the angle low and pulling the tape as straight as possible
Howards method for removing the adhesive works like a charm. The only addition I made was to slightly warm the back of the iphone on a rice pack (used for sore neck muscles—haha). Going back and forth between hands is really crucial. While on hand gives a gentle pull, the other holds the phone from moving. Slow back and forth. Thanks.
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Entferne die drei Schrauben, welche die Halterung neben der Taptic Engine befestigen:
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Eine 1,3 mm Y000 Schraube
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Eine 2,7 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube
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Eine 2,9 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube
My phone had Phillips screws in all three places, so I did not need the Y000 screwdriver bit.
I don’t see the point in steps 18-27 if we’re only changing the battery. I pulled out the sticky tape with taptic and all this other jazz still intact. Am I missing something? Reconnecting that taptic connection cost me 5 years off my life, needlessly.
Hey William!
We instruct people to remove the Taptic Engine in order to minimize the chance that the battery adhesive will tear when you try to pull it out. The steep angle you have to pull the adhesive with the Taptic Engine installed dramatically increases the chance that the adhesive will break under the battery.
since the sticky tape will usually tear anyway and it is no big deal, I agree stop at this point and take the battery out. Too many things can go wrong removing more screws and connecting/disconnecting all the connectors. Go to video instructions at this point. Wish I did.
My tape tore away and now my home button does not work, which from what I see is to do with the tapic engine. It seems to be more dangerous to do that than to use heat and pry the battery out (which I had to do anyway). You should at least put in an warning/option for users.
Hi Gary,
The Home button connector is not related to the Taptic Engine and should not be affected by anything close to the battery adhesive. I would suggest carefully disconnecting and reconnecting the screen connectors, and make sure that there is no debris on the contacts. Be sure to disconnect the battery before you do this, or you will risk damaging the screen.
Glad I stopped and watched the video at this point and skipped this step. Totally unnecessary, I used the iopener and heated the back of the phone before removing the battery with a pick and “ifixit card” came out easily. Not my first battery replacement.
Kompletter bullshit!! Im Video wird es anders gezeigt und die Schritte 18-27 werden komplett ausgelassen. Ist auch viel besser so, da so das Risiko, dass man die Taptic Engine schrottet, wie es mir jetzt beim ausbauen passiert ist, einfach nicht vorhanden ist. Ich kann auch nicht nachvollziehen, warum man in einer schriftlichen Anleitung zum Akku Wechsel komplett andere Schritte schildert als im Video. An der Stelle hat iFixit deutlich versagt. Ein Haufen Splasher…
Hallo Maximilian, du hast Recht, im Video wird die kürzere Methode gezeigt. Der Ausbau des Akkus ist für viele Menschen jedoch sehr schwer, wenn die Taptic Engine noch verbaut ist. Deshalb empfiehlt die Anleitung den Ausbau der Taptic Engine.
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Schiebe vorsichtig ein Plektrum zwischen Antennenflexkabel und der Oberseite des Lautsprechers ein.
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Heble das Diversity-Antennenflexkabel mit der Spudgerspitze hoch und löse es vom Logic Board ab.
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Schiebe ein Plektrum unter das Antennenflexkabel, um den Anschluss nach unten zu drücken.
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Heble das Antennenflexkabel mit der Spudgerspitze hoch und löse es aus seinem Anschluss, halte dabei den Anschluss mit dem Plektrum nach unten.
Don’t worry if the socket lifts up a bit as you get it out. You’ll need to lift it up later (Step 25) so don’t push it back into place yet.
Every instruction online (including your YouTube video) leaves the Taptic Engine in place. This added step did not help with battery replacement, and led to an hour of frustration trying to get the connector back in place.
I noticed the same thing and wondered if it was necessary. Thanks
Yeah, I broke the connector off of my taptic engine trying to get it to reconnect to the lighting connector plate….freaking nightmare with that and the co-axe wifi connector……..I now have a working phone without haptics
dave -
I agree jgrsf
I was glad I had the Taptic Engine removed when I failed to remove the battery adhesives. It leaves more room to work around the battery.
I was following this for replacing the loud speaker. I found that during reconnecting the antenna flex, I slightly rocked the taptic connector and it came lose. I was frustrated because my pre-close up test had everything working, then I shut it down, made sure everything was connected and put it all together (including a bang-on job on the display adhesive!!) and wham - no taptic responses.
Just finishing reseating it, fought with the antenna flex, then ensured the taptic connector was seated properly underneath. All good now.
i cant get the small screw to tighten to hold the bracket in place. it just spins. the 2.7mm screw that is supposed to go into the lower left bottom. the 2.9mm screw that goes in lower right bottom will also snug down on lower left. I somehow messed up the hole I guess. can i use an extra 2.9mm instead of 2.7 mm ? if i can find one ? thank you
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Entferne die beiden Schrauben, mit denen die Taptic Engine befestigt ist:
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Eine 2,1 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube
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Eine 2,1 mm Abstandsschraube
Why is this screwdriver bit not included in the fix kit?
It’s more important to get this unusual piece than a common Phillips head.
When reinstalling the standoff that connects to the Taptic Engine, I found that the pointy tip of the spudger fits really well into the little hole at the top of the standoff, and helps with getting it into place and screwing it down if you don’t have a screwdriver bit for the standoff. Hope this is helpful!
Be sure to look through all the packaging if you bought the iFixit replacement battery - the Standoff Screwdriver bit was in the package with the battery and screen adhesive (the box labeled “Repair Part”) rather than in with the tools (the box labeled “Repair Tools”).
I just used a sharp knife for the orange one
I broke (twice) the ribbon cable on the tapic engine while trying to reinstall the taptic engine. I ended up taking the loudspeaker out which gave my finger a bit more room to press down and connect the cable to the phone. It was a royal PIA.
Such a nice kit, great instructions, and then not include the standoff bit…what a miss…
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Benutze die Spudgerspitze, um das Antennenkabel vom Anschluss unter ihm wegzuheben.
Just a heads up, I found a small bit of adhesive tape between the antenna cable socket and the connector below.
Yep, I did find it too. Thanks
Hola,
Se me ha roto ese conector pequeño de la antena y no encuentro donde puedo comprar un repuesto. ¿Alguna idea?
Gracias
I also found adhesive between the antenna cable socket and the connector below. I was not able to separate the two (mediocre middle-aged vision and lack of leverage to create the separation), and therefore was not able to fully disconnect the haptic engine. Instead, I gently wriggled the haptic engine out and, leaving it connected, rotated it 180 degrees and out of the way toward the bottom right corner of the phone. I am hoping that I have not damaged the thin ribbon cable. On the up side, for the first time ever I was able to remove the adhesive strips from under the battery (they didn’t break).
I just want to follow up to say that I did not damage the thin ribbon cable connecting the Taptic Engine. I did forget to reconnect it, though. Once I got that straight, it worked fine.
I found that the Antenna cable socket is best to remain attached to the taptic engine cable has i find that it is very easy to brake.
I have in the past also broking the Taptic engine cable when trying to fit it to its sockets. the Taptic engine cable is very easy to brake so would advise that great care is taking when both fitting and removing.
Yep, broke my cable…hoping i can order a replacement taptic engine,,,,phone works without it, but no vibrator or haptics
dave -
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Heble mit der Spudgerspitze das Flexkabel zur Taptic Engine hoch und löse es ab.
I found that this cable was glued down with similar adhesive to the screen. It pulled away as I removed the taptic engine from the phone (next step).
My taptic engine had two screws on the lh side. still worked the same.
Be really careful here in the reassembly. I managed to rip the cable here, and now best case I won’t have any haptic feedback. :(
I’m sorry to hear that! If you’d like to get that fixed sometime, we do sell a replacement part!
On re-assembly, the taptic engine might not work. Before panicking, ensure that the taptic engine connector didn’t get dislodged when fighting to get the antenna flex reconnected.
on my A1905 iphone 8 - This is not correct!
There is an extra leg coming off the taptic engine’s flex cable with a micro-coax antenna connector going underneath the speaker!
You can’t take the engine off yet!!
I have the same issue and confirm the coax connector under the speaker …. can you buy this Taptic Engine anywhere? The one with the extra leg ?
James -
A hint for reassembly: carefully crease the ribbon cable upwards along the edge of the connector so the stiff ribbon doesn’t touch the engine, pushing the upper connector too far away from the engine to line up with the lower connector. Once the cable isn’t interfering, you don’t have to worry as much about breaking it or having it get in the way. It’s still tricky to get the connectors lined up. I had luck by using one set of tweezers to hold and stabilize the short sides of the upper connector (silver rectangle). I used another set of tweezers (spudger would also work) in my other hand to finesse the connector alignment and push the connectors together. Look carefully at the first photo in this step: the connector is almost exactly centered below the taptic engine screw.
Any suggestion on why the 2.7 mm screw no longer holds down the bracket. 2.9 mm screw works in either hole .but the 2.7 mm no longer secures the bracket, can I swap it out with another 2.9 mm screw?. And where do I find one. Will it work if it’s missing that screw? Space. I have an old iPhone SE maybe I can find 2.9 screw in that . Thanks
Re-assembling the Taptic Engine connector is difficult. After struggling unsuccessfully for 45 minutes I ended up bending up the metal tab on the right side of the phone with tweezers, then with the Taptic Engine tipped on end (not positioned in phone) I could get the cables connected. With the tab on the phone bent upward I was able to slide the mounting tab on the left side of the Taptic Engine under the tab on the left side of the phone case and then bend it back down. This needs to be done carefully to avoid damaging the cable on the Taptic Engine.
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Jeder Klebestreifen verfügt über eine schwarze Zuglasche am Ende, die leicht auf der Vorderseite des Akkus angeklebt ist.
Be careful prying around the side button connector when trying to remove the top tabs. There is very little room to maneuverer
£ Tapes broke on me so I applied iISOPROPYL ALCOHOL using an Eye Dropper waited 30 seconds tHen heated up some oil in the bag rice for 2 minutes on 700W and the applied the unopened packet to the back of the iPhone for 90 seconds.
Themn I used an out of date credit card with the raised numbers facing down to easily release the battery.
David Howard
Great tip! Worked perfectly and easy. Thanks.
It should read heated up some boil in the bag rice
David Howard
Very difficult. be very careful on the limited space end that you don't puncture the battery!
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Löse die erste Akkuklebelasche von der unteren rechten Kante des Akkus.
Vor Schritt 30 umbedingt die Rückseite des iPhone erwärmen. Ich habe das iPhone 10 Minuten auf eine heiße Wärmflasche gelegt.
Strongly suggest you remove the display. Also the picture shows the "perfect world" it is far ore difficult to remove and get to those white adhesive pull strips. be very careful!!!
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Ziehe langsam die Akkuklebelasche weg vom Akku, in Richtung Unterkante des iPhones.
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Ziehe gleichmäßig und halte konstanten Zug auf den Streifen, bis er zwischen Akku und rückseitigem Gehäuse herausrutscht. Das gelingt am Besten, wenn du den Streifen in einem möglichst flachen Winkel ziehst, ohne dass er sich an anderen Bauteilen des iPhones verfängt.
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Wenn der Akkuklebestreifen bei diesem Verfahren reißen sollte, dann hole das restliche Stück des Streifens mit den Fingern oder einer stumpfen Pinzette heraus und mache mit dem Ziehen weiter.
This was the most frustrating step of the process. I found that if you pull steadily and slowly while continuing to grip the adhesive as close to the battery as you can there is a much smaller chance of breaking the adhesive strip and losing it under the battery.
I did not have replacement adhesive tabs for my battery so I needed to re-use the old ones. First, I pulled back the black tabs from the top and sides of the battery (Steps 28 and 29). Then I laid the phone on a hot water bottle (Wärmeflasche for our German friends) while I very, very, very slowly prised the battery out of the body using the flat end of a spudger, starting at the corner closest to the volume buttons. The battery did deform somewhat during the process, but it was fully discharged and I had no combustion problems. After a few minutes of gentle pressure on the battery corner, it started to release from the adhesive. Full removal took about 5 minutes and the adhesive tabs were not damaged in any way and happily re-adhered to the new battery.
I did all this after skipping over steps 18 to 27 and put the new battery in place after connecting it first to the circuit board to ensure correct alignment.
All 4 strips tore after just removing a small portion… even though I took great care to pull slowly and at a small angle. Could not imagine how anyone could have managed this with my phone. Had to heat and pry out.
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Wiederhole die vorigen Schritte, um die restlichen drei Streifen zu entfernen.
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Wenn du es geschafft hast, alle Klebestreifen erfolgreich zu entfernen, dann kannst du den nächsten Schritt überspringen.
If you have a thin flexible plastic shim shaped like a letter opener, you can slip it under the battery and take it off the adhesive.
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Wenn der Akku doch noch am Rückgehäuse festgeklebt bleibt, dann bereite einen iOpener vor oder benutze einen Fön, um das Rückgehäuse direkt hinter dem Akku zu erhitzen. Dadurch wird der Kleber aufgeweicht.
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Ziehe den Faden über die ganze Länge des Akkus wie eine Säge hin und her, um den Kleber zu lösen. Verforme oder beschädige auf keinen Fall den Akku.
In my case the floss caught on the sharp edge of the wireless charging coil pulling up the edge of the coil, butane cutting off the floss. I think the coil had been damaged by some previous repair, but be careful. After you pull past the first two adhesive strips, peek under the battery to make sure the floss is sliding over not under the coil. The coil doesn't look like a coil – more like a paper thin pad.
Soaking the floss in rubbing alcohol helped also. It took some doing, but eventually came through without issue.
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Entferne den Akku vom iPhone.
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Klebe den Akku fest, trenne ihn wieder ab und fahre mit dem Zusammenbau fort.
Having received a replacement battery from CE Store, the phone is now OK with top battery performance. The one received earlier was just a scrap, not chargeable. Now, I’m quite satisfied.
I made the mistake of powering the phone on once the new battery was connected to make sure it was working, before I put the screen back on. Now my home button doesn’t work, even after two hard resets. Anyone know how I can get it working again? Note I didn’t disconnect the screen or taptic engine or anything else. I just left the screen hinged 90°, the only connector I touched was the battery connector.
Same issue. Home button is dead. No cables were damaged. Everything else works. Any ideas?
I had the same issue with the Home button, I turned on Virtual Home Button, which makes the phone usable. Shutting the power off off and restarting the phone bring you to the login screen. go to Settings, Accessibility, Touch, Assistive Touch.
I recommend making sure the battery connector is lined up with the socket before setting it down on in the compartment, mine was very close, but a little too high and it made getting it connected a little more difficult than it needed to be.
Performing a force restart at this point makes no sense. Shouldn’t it be performed after the display is installed?
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Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenbauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge. Vergiss nicht, vorher das Display wieder festzukleben.
Entsorge deinen Elektromüll fachgerecht.
Die Reparatur verlief nicht wie geplant? In unserem Antwortenforum findest du Hilfe bei der Fehlersuche.
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenbauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge. Vergiss nicht, vorher das Display wieder festzukleben.
Entsorge deinen Elektromüll fachgerecht.
Die Reparatur verlief nicht wie geplant? In unserem Antwortenforum findest du Hilfe bei der Fehlersuche.
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30 Kommentare
I still did it in 30 minutes….but I am glad I stop repairing phones around the Iphone 6s ! Now it takes serious effors just to replace the battery !
One note on this repair: When reinstalling the standoff that connects to the Taptic Engine, I found that the pointy tip of the spudger fits really well into the little hole at the top of the standoff, and helps with getting it into place and screwing it down if you don’t have a screwdriver bit for the standoff. Hope this is helpful!
Are steps 18 to 27 really required if you’re just replacing the battery?
Hi Daniel!
The pull-stretch adhesive holding the battery has a tendency to tear when they are pulled at a steep angle. When they tear, removing the battery becomes much more difficult. We strongly recommend removing the Taptic Engine in order to give the adhesive the best chance of coming out in one piece.
I tried doing it the ‘easy’ way without those steps. I wound up breaking the top adhesive tabs and it made it a lot harder to remove the battery and took a lot of extra time. If I had to do it again, I would do all the steps. Otherwise, things went very well. Very good instructions.
I have done both the “long way” and the “short way.” If I start with the top tabs and they break, I will skip step 18 - 27 since I will have to use the floss / alcohol / pry method anyway.
Great guide and great quality of all your tools and replacement parts.
The battery replacement took 50 minutes. The taptic engine took a bit more extra 10 minutes time.
Crushing experiment! The phone wakes up, all installed apps appear on the screen, works well, joins to Wi-Fi, but can’t charge the battery. 1% still remains after three hours, connected to its genuine charger. Well, I’m down and very sad.
I bought the kit from ifixit. I’m power electronics technician and fixed 10 to 20 iPhones in my life without problems. But this time I made the same experience as Miklos Barton. Battery only charges 1%. I checked some YouTube videos, and how to fix this Problem, and they showed that in most cases the MOSFET on top of the battery was ripped of. In my case the MOSFET is in place.
The video show battery removal without taking out the taptic engine first. So, what is the recommend method?
Removing the Taptic Engine first allows you to pull the battery adhesive at a shallower angle, which decreases the likelihood of broken strips.
I got one question will it detect the battery last time I did a battery replacement The battery won’t detect the iPhone so I’m kinda skeptic about it
Gut Bezeichnet, Schritt führ Schritt
I just completed the battery replacement. I didn’t remove the Taptic Engine, which worked out fine. I used a sock full of microwaved rice for the iOpener and heat gun replacement.
Total time = around 1 hour.
Mistakes = 2
Mistake 1 = I broke the 2 clips at the top of the iPhone. They are incredibly fragile.
Mistake 2 = I pierced the old battery with the tweezers. It melted one of the tweezer arms a little, while the battery puffed up, sparked, and smoked a bit.
Having same problem as Miklos and Stefan…so is it the battery from iFixIt or is it a mosfet?
Same problem. Anyone from iFixit have a solution?
Ich habe die Anleitung 1:1 befolgt und es hat gut funktioniert. Zum erwärmen habe ich eine heiße Wärmflasche verwendet. Umbedingt das Repairkit mit Ersatzdichtung kaufen. Super Service von iFix it: Anleitung, Tools, Ersatzteile. DANKE
Hallo, ich habe den Akku erfolgreich nach Anleitung gewechselt. Ebenfalls habe ich den Akku danach wie beschrieben auf 100% geladen und weitere 2 Stunden am Ladekabel belassen. Das iPhone ist zurückgesetzt und hat keine installierten Apps außer den Stockapps von Apple. Der Akku entlädt sich ohne Aktivitäten über Nacht auf ca. 70%, danach geht es weiter runter ohne das iPhone 8 zu benutzen. Kann es sein das die Kalibrierung aus irgendeinem Grund nicht funktioniert hat? Der Akku hat bei 100% Leistung (Batterie Management in den Einstellung) leider nur die gleiche Wirksamkeit wie der alte Akku. Wo liegt hier der Fehler?
i don’t like to do it anymore..
iphone 6 was easy, but with IPX etc. it’s just not easy anymore.
also, it’s not as good a battery as from apple directly.
I learned the hard way that the iPhone 8 has a wireless charging coil. When the battery adhesive pull strips snapped, I used a plastic card to remove the adhesive and it scraped a big chunk out of the charging coil. You can still get the phone working again by removing the logic board, ripping the coil connector off of the coil, and putting a piece of electrical tape over any exposed copper. Next time I’ll use floss to remove the battery adhesive!
Hi Richard, same thing happened to me. I tried the best I cloud to remove the battery I also used floss, but nope the wireless charging pad was stuck and came glued with the adhesive strips completely. I soften the adhesive with no luck. I think I will put this phone away. I thought the repair process was easier but I made a huge mistake by only watching the iFixit video. :(
Tolle Anleitung!! Vielen Dank für dein Engagement!!
Gute Anleitung, war hilfreich. Das Video ist ebenfalls sehr gut. Es entfällt das Entfernen der Taptic Engine.
Auch die Ersatzbatterie wurde von fixit.de sehr schnell geliefert. Ich bin begeistert.
Despite lots of gentle heat and following the instructions really carefully (I’ve replaced batteries and screens a few times in the past with no issues) I now have a dark blob on the screen where the suction cup was used to remove it, and a tiny bright spot in the bottom right corner. I’m guessing that one or more layers has separated before the adhesive gave way - probably the polarizer as the blob gets brighter when looked at at an angle. It did take me about 15-20 minutes of work to get the screen off as it just didn’t want to separate despite heat and rocking as per the guide - I think it just required too much pull from the suction cup before I could get the slightest gap to get the pick in.
The phone still works fully and the rest of the repair went off without a hitch. The iFixit replacement battery seems fine. I’m going to leave it charging and hope for a miracle to happen overnight.
Sweet jesus. that sucked. just pay the extra $20 to have it done. best 20 bucks you'll ever spend
Took about an hour. Getting the case open was the hardest part, but don't try this repair unless you are comfortable with handling 2mm screws and are patient as !&&*! Fired the repaired iPhone up and it worked perfectly! Whew!
just how long are those screws- i turn and turn and turn and the lift off is soooo slight, seemingly insignificant…
An. Jahnke - Antwort
I would recommend, from the very beginning, dumping all tools out of the kit (if you got it) and using that white paper tool box as a tray to organize the screws and braces in. It’s nice to work over because it catches screws well and makes it easy to see them if you drop any.
Johnny Emrica - Antwort
That’s a great idea thank you
Mohamed Dekkiche -