I've been tinkering for as long as I remember, in fact I think I may have learned to read a simple circuit diagram before I learned to read English! Reading and writing seemed daunting at infants school when I was first encouraged to learn, but then I discovered there were books about electricity in the local library! By the end of a weekend I was making strides, and in only a few weeks I'd read all the electricity books the children's section of the library.
That was back in the 1950's. At the time, my father used to take family portraits using photoflood lamps. These were ordinary tungsten bulbs but over-run in order to give a more intense light at the cost of a much shorter life. He had a piece of wood with two switches and two sockets on it (I can still picture it) with which he could switch two photofloods in series for modelling at his leisure without burning them out, or in parallel for full brightness to take a photo. The circuit diagram was one of the first I ever understood.
Having shown an interest in electricity I was given a few batteries, bulbs, switches and bits of wire to play with, and although in the course of time I graduated to valves and transistors, and later to integrated circuits and computers, I've never really stopped tinkering. Taking things apart has always been a fascination for me.
After (naturally) opting for sciences at school I went to university and studied electronic engineering. But in one Summer vac job I was given a piece of stripboard with 20 tracks per inch (rather than the more usual 10) and a bunch of early (DTL) integrated circuits to try and build a hybrid analogue/digital computer display. But after spending many frustrating hours trying to locate shorts and broken tracks, I decided software was much better behaved and was what I wanted to do, at least for a living. I'd already had some experience programming an early computer (the Elliott 803) at a local technical college, which I'd greatly enjoyed. So after completing my electronics degree I took the Computer Science Diploma at the famous Mathematical Laboratory (formerly, home of EDSAC) at Cambridge.
The first half (or more) of my career I spent in software development. I've always enjoyed programming though I have to admit that I'm very far from being a superstar coder. I particularly enjoyed my time as lead developer for a minicomputer kernel, especially a project where I enhanced it for a dual processor operation. This involved some fascinating hardware development for a conflict resolution module.
I spent the latter part of my career working in cybersecurity, which again I found interesting, and although I'm now retired, I still try to keep abreast of developments. I like to help people stay safe online, and where the opportunity arises, to consider cybersecurity as a fascinating, challenging and very well worthwhile career choice. (There's no shortage of jobs if you're any good, and the money's good, too!)
Since retiring at the end of 2013 I've been able to spend much more time tinkering, and this has included mentoring kids at a local school computer club, and volunteering with The Restart Project. In the latter we help people with their dead electrical and electronic goods, repairing them where we can and advising them where we can't. This has allowed me to tinker with and take apart all manner of gadgets, to write a number of iFixit repair guides, to answer questions on the Forum, and to record much of what I know and have learned in the Restart Wiki.
Nothing you can do with glue or a soldering iron. Disassemble and take out the elastomeric strip. Gently squeeze it sideways, i.e. in a direction perpendicular to its height. Gently clean the glass and the circuit board with isopropyl alcohol and reassemble making sure that the elastomeric strip is squeezed (in its height) as much as possible between the board and the glass. Alternatively, if you can get a replacement elastomeric strip of the same dimensions that would be even better but I think they’re only normally sold in large quantities to manufacturers.
En fait, il y a quatre diodes. Au commencement je pensais que vous avez enlevé et testé seulement les trois D9, D25 et D10. L'étiquette contre le 4ième est caché.
Best if you search for them yourself - if I found one for you I couldn’t guarantee that it would work.
Yes, any 2.5in SATA HDD or SSD can be fitted in place of any other.
Is it completely dead or does it show any signs of life at all? First of all, check the fuse. Then, all I can suggest is you dismantle it again, checking for any wires that might have got broken or disconnected or any mechanical parts that you reassembled incorrectly.
What was the fault that caused you to dismantle it in the first place and did you find the cause and fix it? Whatever you fixed, replaced or modified could be the cause of the problem.
If it doesn’t work at first, try counting up to 10 (or even 20) at different stages between shorting the pads, pressing power, releasing the short and releasing the power button. Try (if you can) with one or both RAM modules inserted.
I was fairly sure the one I did recently had previously been unlocked. When you get into the BIOS, first set the password to something known, make sure you can boot (not just once), go back into the BIOS to clear the password, and then check you can boot a couple more times. It might even be necessary to boot into Window the first time you get past the BIOS password. Keep at it - you’ll get there eventually!
In the first photo in Step 4 you can see a label with a burn mark. This is partially covering a pair of triangular solder pads. (On slightly different models they may or may not be beneath the RAM modules when inserted, and may or may not be hidden by a label.) In a nutshell, you need to short them together while pressing the power button. The laptop will only come on after releasing the short while still holding the power button.
But in practice it may be a bit harder - I did one just recently and it took a while to get the procedure right. You can short out the pads with a flat bladed screwdriver but it’s not easy and you’ll almost certainly need an extra pair of hands. You will save yourself a lot of trouble if you can solder a switch or push button on flying leads to the solder pads, to enable you to short them with the laptop open on the table.
Err, I don’t think that marked capacitor will hold much charge, though that’s not to say you can’t discharge the flash capacitor as described. The flash capacitor itself will be a large cylindrical component, probably somewhere close by underneath, on the other end of two of those soldered wires.
Recharging alkaline batteries is not recommended. They can be recharged to a limited extent but if you’re going to do so then it you will get best results with a top-up charge while they are still reasonably fresh. Some years ago one or two manufacturers marketed ranges of rechargeable alkaline cells but performance was very poor compared with NiCd or NiMH and you had to use a special charger with a completely different voltage/current charging profile to a standard charger, hence they never caught on. Yes, proper rechargeable batteries are more expensive, but heck, you can recharge them hundreds of times so over their life they will be 50 or 100 times cheaper! Why risk damage to your precious electronic equipment from leaking batteries that you forgot to remove?
Hi Nicky - See Step 14, and the final 2 bullets following the warnings.
Seite 1 von 2
Weiter